Neuvo Southern

NEUVO

SOUTHERN At Corto Lima, Jonathan Lundy returns to a cuisine that continues to captivate him

Written by Patti Bailey / Photography by Andrew Kung

Although he’s considered one of the pioneers of the Southern fine food movement in Kentucky, that was never the preferred culinary pathway celebrated Lexington chef Jonathan Lundy intended to tread. “Today, the thought of having to continue making grits and fried green tomatoes is enough to make me nauseous,” he said with a laugh. For his latest concept–Corto Lima– the charismatic chef has returned to the type of cooking that got him excited about food in the first place.

Lundy was in the final stages of assembling a business plan to open an Italian-themed eatery when nearby 101 West Short Street in downtown Lexington became available. “I’d watched this place flip so many times, and people say it’s cursed, but I believe you just have to have the right plan and the right people willing to carry it out to be successful,” he said. Judging from the number of tables that were filled with patrons during the typical slow hours between lunch and dinner during our recent visit, it seems that Corto Lima may just possess the right je ne sais quoi needed to achieve the staying power that has eluded other restaurateurs who’ve inhabited the space.

In order to convert the physical space into something that is complementary to the cuisine in a span of just three months, and on what many would consider to be a shoestring budget of $140,000, Lundy assembled a team of familiar cohorts, including TJ Cox. Now serving as Director of Operations, Cox has worked with Lundy in varying capacities, stretching back to the era of Jonathan’s at Gratz Park. The pair are in agreement that at each phase of their careers, which has included both independent and corporately-owned restaurants, they’ve picked up the tools necessary to make their current venture a success. “This project is really 14 years in the making…we needed the time to acquire the discipline and ability to make it work,” said Lundy. “In all of my career, the most memorable moments have happened since we opened in February; it’s been a roller coaster ride,” added Cox.

Tall ceilings, white walls, and ample windows lend the impression of a space much larger than the 61 seats it contains. The interior design was spearheaded by Cara Drion, who introduced pops of color on the upholstery and accent pillows in sophisticated patterns associated with south-of-the-border style. The overall effect looks as appetizingly fresh as the bowl of guacamole on the table in front of me.

Loosely defining the cuisine at Corto Lima as heralding from “anywhere south of Kentucky,” Lundy said he credits chefs like Mark Miller, regarded as the founder of modern southwestern cuisine, for igniting his passion for this particular style of cooking. When he was developing the menu, Lundy spent a good deal of time observing how people dine out today, noting that women are often the decision makers when it comes to deciding where to dine out. “For that reason, the menu leans vegetarian and vegan friendly and is also ‘gluten light’,” he explained.

By the 100th day of operation, the kitchen at Corto Lima had cranked out 18,5000 corn tortillas. Lundy pointed out that there is only one other place in town that is cooking and grinding their own corn for tortillas, masa grits and empanadas, a process he mastered by trial and error after purchasing an industrial grinding machine. Artisanal tortillas are made using a process called nixtamalization, which originated in Mesoamerica around 1200-1500 BC. Corto Lima uses non-GMO heirloom corn supplied by the Masienda Company in Playa Vista, California.

Way more than a gourmet taco spot, Lundy changes up the menu every

few weeks in response to customer preferences and to take advantage of

seasonal ingredients. He explained that what he is attempting to do at Corto

Lima is “take pieces of traditional Peruvian, Mexican and Southwestern cuisine

and make them palatable to local tastes.”

The flexibility of the menu allows for patrons to stop by light bite or a

hearty meal. Whatever your dining intentions, you’d be remiss to pass on the

guacamole, which has discernable flavors of roasted garlic, red onion, and

barrel smoked salt and is accompanied by delightfully crispy tortilla chips fried

to order. Going the small plate route, particularly when dining with a group, is

like taking your taste buds on a trip, with each dish presenting a unique set of

flavors and textures. A few standouts from our recent visits include the Chicken

Chicharron, Shrimp Ceviche and the Cauliflower “Al Pastor” taco (you won’t

even miss the meat). Four heartier main dishes, including Chimichurri Steal

and Feijoada, a Brazilian pork and black bean stew, are ideal options for those

wanting a more “traditional” dining experience.

Cox was responsible for the development of the beverage menu, which

includes a selection of margaritas, craft cocktails, local and international

bottled beers and 19 wines (most available by the glass). “My cocktails won’t

win any art shows but they’re tasty,” said Cox, who said the bar sells 1,000

scratch-made margaritas each week and uses 300 limes a day.

Lundy laughs at the irony of not being able to speak Spanish and

helming a Latin-influenced restaurant, whose name is a play-on-words

in Spanish based on Corto Lima’s location at the crossroads of Short and

Limestone streets. His smile broadens even more when asked if the curse

that seems to have hung over this spot for so long has finally be lifted. “We’re

blown away by how we’ve done so far,” he said. sl

SOPHISTICATED SOCIETY

July

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22 27 28-30 Crown & Roses Ball, 9:30pm, 21c Museum Hotel; misskentuckypageant.com Lexington Junior League Charity Horse Show, The Red Mile; lexjrleague.com 41st Annual Bluegrass 10,000, 7:30am, Downtown Lexington; runsignup.com/Race/KY/Lexington/Bluegrass10000 Mutt Putt, 11am, Griffin Gate Marriott Resort & Spa; lexingtonhumanesociety.org Lexington Burger Week; lexingtonburgerweek.com Keeneland Concours Bash, 7pm, The Grand Reserve; keenelandconcours.com Pawhibition, 6pm, Rock House Brewing; paws4thecause.com Keeneland Concours d’Elegance, 9am, Keeneland Race Course; keenelandconcours.com Keeneland Concours Tour d’Elegance; keenelandconcours.com Lexington Restaurant Week; lexingtonrestaurantweek.com BIA’s Grand Tour of Homes; biacentralky.com Bourbon & Brews on Broadway to benefit The Blue Grass Trust for Historic Preservation, 6pm, 210 N. Broadway; bgtbob.eventbrite.com First Annual Summer Gala for the Woodford Humane Society, 7pm, Keeneland Entertainment Center; woodfordhumane.org 10th Annual Owl Foundation Golf Outing, 10:30am, University Club of Kentucky; owlinc.net BIA’s Grand Tour of Homes; biacentralky.com

August

2-5 3-6 5-6 12 18-19 19-26 25 26 26 26 Shelbyville Horse Show, Shelby County Fairgrounds; shelbyvillehorseshow.com Ballet Under the Stars, 8pm, Woodland Park Shaker Village Craft Fair; shakervillageky.org A Midsummer Night’s Run, 4:30pm, Downtown Lexington; amidsummer5k.com Picnic with the Pops, The Meadow at Keene Barn; lexpops.com World’s Championship Horse Show at the Kentucky State Fair; kystatefair.org 4th Annual Burgers, Bourbon & Beer for Arbor Youth Services, 7pm, Malones Prime Events; arborky.org Bells and Beaus Ball for the American Cancer Society, 7pm, Keeneland; ashton.lewis@cancer.org A Night for the Next, 6pm, Normandy Farm; thenestlexington.org Sophisticated Living Polo World Cup, 3pm, Oxmoor Farm in Louisville; slpolo.com

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PURSES, POUTS AND PEARLS A Bluegrass Belle’s Night out was the theme of the American Cancer Society’s Purses, Pouts and Pearls event, held at the Woodford Reserve Clubroom at Commonwealth Stadium. Event honoree Missy Marrs delivered powerful remarks at the event, which promotes healthy living and aids the ACS fight back against cancer.

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Bringing the sport of kings to the Bluegrass.

Don’t miss the Under the Lights twilight polo series this summer!

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TASTE OF THE BLUEGRASS Held at Keeneland’s Keene Barn, the perennially popular annual Taste of the Bluegrass event showcases the very best food and drinks the Lexington area has to offer. Proceeds from the event benefit God’s Pantry Food Bank, who used funds raised from the 2016 event to provide 1.3 million meals to families in need throughout 50 counties in Central and Eastern Kentucky.

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FARMLAND CONSERVATION CELEBRATION This 17th annual event, held at Fasig-Tipton, highlighted the accomplishments of the Bluegrass Conservancy, the largest regional, accredited land trust in Kentucky, which has permanently protected nearly 26,000 acres of farmland in the Bluegrass.

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A ROYAL AFFAIR Guests arrived at Spindletop Hall in period attire for a gala evening of dinner and dancing fit for royalty to support KET’s programs and services.

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A STELLAR EVENING The Living Arts & Science Center hosted an evening of artful experience and dancing under the stars in Lexington’s only planetarium as part of the organization’s 27th annual H’Artful of Fun event.

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EDUCATION BUILDS HOPE LUNCHEON Jennifer Maggio, Chief Executive Officer and founder of The Life of a Single Mom, a global nonprofit that serves more than 50,000 single mothers each year was the keynote speaker at the 6th annual Education Builds Home Luncheon, presented by Don and Mira Ball at the Carrick House. Proceeds from the event benefit One Parent Scholar House, which helps empower single parents to earn their college degree by providing affordable housing, quality childcare, counseling and on-going support from a team of professionals and neighbors.

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