CULTURAL MECCA Oaxaca is a heavenly fusion of sights, sounds and flavors Written by Melissa Mahanes / Photos by Melissa Mahanes and John Tyson Just a three-hour flight from Dallas, Oaxaca’s (pronounced whoahock-ahh) quaint, historic metropolis has long been a popular landing pad for ex-pats and bohemians attracted to its colonialera streets, Baroque churches, and charming plazas. Lately, though, Oaxaca has gotten lots of attention, drawing all types of international travelers to its tantalizing mix of colors, textures, sounds, traditions, and the mingling aroma of mezcal, chocolate, and spices. In Oaxaca, you will be satisfied from your first sip of local coffee or chocolate de agua to your last bite of mole or nightcap of mezcal. Today, ambitious modern restaurants exist alongside traditional mom-and-pop eateries and humming street food vendors. Occupied by the Aztecs from the 15th century, Oaxaca subsequently was conquered by the Spaniards and officially designated a city by Hernán Cortés in 1529. Oaxaca is the historic home of the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples, among others, and contains more speakers of indigenous languages than any other Mexican state. The various indigenous civilizations in Oaxaca, fused with Spanish and other European influences, have created a vibrant mestizo culture emphasizing the arts. The richness and quality of local hand-made crafts attract many visitors to the city. They also know how to celebrate in Oaxaca—there are festivals year-round such as the Day of the Dead in late October and the Guelageutza Festival celebrating the cultural diversity of the 16 different ethnolinguistic groups in the area.
Located in the state with which it shares its name, Oaxaca de Juárez is one of the most important destinations in Mexico, owing to its cultural, artistic, and culinary legacies. Oaxaca is designated a World Heritage Site and referred to as Verde Antequera due to the majestic green quarry structures. The streets that branch out from it will bring you to museums, such as the Textile Museum and Oaxaca’s Museum of Contemporary Art, founded by Oaxacan painter Francisco Toledo. The Corridor is also a wonderful place to purchase handicrafts and often offers the possibility of seeing them crafted live. Oaxaca’s Textile Museum houses nine private collections of unique textiles. You can purchase pieces directly from the artist to promote the #yonoregateo (“I do not bargain”) campaign that seeks to raise consciousness regarding fair prices for the artisans’ beautiful work. In addition to textiles, Oaxaca is known for its traditional alebrijes, small, animal-like figurines with very vibrant colors and signature black pottery called barro negro. Located in the center of the city of Oaxaca is the former Convent of Santo Domingo. It is one of the most incredible architectural feats of the Dominican order and highlights the splendor of the New Spanish baroque style of the last third of the 16th century. Inside the convent, you will be immediately drawn to the plasterwork and gold leaf representations of a genealogical tree of the Dominican family, both in its earthly and spiritual life. slmag.net
75
