Cultural Mecca

Oaxaca is a heavenly fusion of sights, sounds and flavors

Written by Melissa Mahanes / Photos by Melissa Mahanes and John Tyson

Just a three-hour flight from Dallas, Oaxaca’s (pronounced whoahock-ahh) quaint, historic metropolis has long been a popular landing pad for ex-pats and bohemians attracted to its colonialera streets, Baroque churches, and charming plazas. Lately, though, Oaxaca has gotten lots of attention, drawing all types of international travelers to its tantalizing mix of colors, textures, sounds, traditions, and the mingling aroma of mezcal, chocolate, and spices. In Oaxaca, you will be satisfied from your first sip of local coffee or chocolate de agua to your last bite of mole or nightcap of mezcal. Today, ambitious modern restaurants exist alongside traditional mom-and-pop eateries and humming street food vendors.

Occupied by the Aztecs from the 15th century, Oaxaca subsequently was conquered by the Spaniards and officially designated a city by Hernán Cortés in 1529. Oaxaca is the historic home of the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples, among others, and contains more speakers of indigenous languages than any other Mexican state. The various indigenous civilizations in Oaxaca, fused with Spanish and other European influences, have created a vibrant mestizo culture emphasizing the arts. The richness and quality of local hand-made crafts attract many visitors to the city. They also know how to celebrate in Oaxaca—there are festivals year-round such as the Day of the Dead in late October and the Guelageutza Festival celebrating the cultural diversity of the 16 different ethnolinguistic groups in the area.

Located in the state with which it shares its name, Oaxaca de Juárez is one of the most important destinations in Mexico, owing to its cultural, artistic, and culinary legacies. Oaxaca is designated a World Heritage Site and referred to as Verde Antequera due to the majestic green quarry structures. The streets that branch out from it will bring you to museums, such as the Textile Museum and Oaxaca’s Museum of Contemporary Art, founded by Oaxacan painter Francisco Toledo. The Corridor is also a wonderful place to purchase handicrafts and often offers the possibility of seeing them crafted live.

Oaxaca’s Textile Museum houses nine private collections of unique textiles. You can purchase pieces directly from the artist to promote the #yonoregateo (“I do not bargain”) campaign that seeks to raise consciousness regarding fair prices for the artisans’ beautiful work. In addition to textiles, Oaxaca is known for its traditional alebrijes, small, animal-like figurines with very vibrant colors and signature black pottery called barro negro.

Located in the center of the city of Oaxaca is the former Convent of Santo Domingo. It is one of the most incredible architectural feats of the Dominican order and highlights the splendor of the New Spanish baroque style of the last third of the 16th century. Inside the convent, you will be immediately drawn to the plasterwork and gold leaf representations of a genealogical tree of the Dominican family, both in its earthly and spiritual life.

Visits to Santo Domingo are not limited to the temple. The modern-day space is a cultural center composed of the Ethnobotanical Garden, the Fray Francisco de Burgoa Library, Oaxaca’s Public Newspaper Archives, and Oaxaca’s Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca. The museum has a chamber devoted to the treasure excavated from Monte Albán’s Tomb Seven, consisting of objects of gold, silver, and semiprecious gems like obsidian, jade, and pearls. The Ethnobotanical Garden features plants that evolved from the Jurassic period, cacti and agave, and a traditional medicine herbarium. The collection is housed in what was once the orchard planted by the Dominican friars who inhabited the former convent of Santo Domingo. (Necessary sidebar: Nacho Libre was filmed in Oaxaca, starring Jack Black)

Oaxaca is closely associated with the production of mezcal. A cousin to tequila, mezcal is made with a wood fire, and has a distinctly smoky flavor. Mezcal can be made from a combination of different types of agave, including both wild and cultivated. Most mezcal is produced about an hour from Oaxaca City in Santiago Matatlan, where the town is full of small micro-distilleries. Mezcal plays an important role in Oaxaca’s culture and daily life. It is consumed at every special occasion, and the ritual of pouring a bit of one’s mezcal on the ground before one has their first sip—it is considered to bring good luck.

Restaurants highlighting Oaxacan cuisine are located throughout the city. Some are courtyard or garden spaces, while others offer panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains. In addition to the famous moles, you can sample dishes made from Oaxaca’s chiles, corn, seafood, and more. No matter how elegant the restaurant, the fare remains rooted in home cooking, and is all delicious.

The city’s markets have become increasingly popular among travelers looking to try some of the region’s typical fare and purchase handicrafts. Mercado 20 de Noviembre has two main areas: the general market and food courts. The food court features a variety of stalls where you can taste moles, soups, broths, milk chocolate, and even grasshoppers. The food is quite affordable and is accompanied by live music. However, the Smoke Aisle has become popular with tourists searching for a culinary adventure. When you arrive, you are handed a tray with chilies and onions. Next, you select your choice of protein and leave your tray for your food to be charcoal-grilled. Marchantes will pass by, offering you tortillas and condiments for your meal. The Benito Juárez Market is the most representative market of the city. You will find various artisanal products, such as jewelry, textiles, ceramics, basketry, and regional dishes.

Though not situated right on the ocean, Oaxaca is often referred to as Mexico’s “last coast.” Backed by the Sierra Sur mountains, the best beaches in Oaxaca run along a jagged coastline that weaves in and out of rocky bays and inlets. Puerto Escondido, approximately 100 miles away, is one of the most famous surfing beaches in the world. It is also home to the closest beach to Oaxaca City, and many Mexican tourists travel here. In addition, whales and dolphins can often be spotted off the Oaxaca coastline.

Located about 40 miles from the city of Oaxaca are the petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, between the mountains of the Sierra Mixe and the Oaxacan Sierra Norte. The most famous waterfall in Hierve el Agua is El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheater). It is nearly 200 feet tall and is shaped diagonally, which has allowed natural pools to form. One such pool is an infinity pool on the edge of a ravine. Although Hierve el Agua means “water boils” in Spanish, the water is quite cool. However, swimming is discouraged to prevent pollution.

Monte Albán, which served as the capital city of the ancient Zapotec people, was built in Oaxaca’s central valley and was deeply linked to Teotihuacán, as evidenced by the style of its buildings, ceramic, and murals. The Gran Plaza is a fantastic place from which to give yourself an idea of the importance of Monte Albán, one of the main cities in Mesoamerica and the size of the city of Oaxaca.

If you are wondering when the best time is to visit Oaxaca, the city’s best weather doubtlessly occurs between January and May and between October and November. No matter when you go, you will be captivated by all the sights, sounds, and flavors of this slice of Mexican heaven.