4 minute read
Gilded Age
Verdura and Belperron bring their legendary designs to benefit Swan Ball
Written by Melissa Mahanes / Photos courtesy of Verdura and Belperron
Verdura and Belperron are luxury jewelry brands with rich histories of innovation, design and creativity. Swan Ball 2023 will feature both entities at the Auction Party on Wednesday, May 17th and at the Ball on Saturday, June 3rd, with sales proceeds benefiting Cheekwood.
Verdura was founded in 1939 by Italian jeweler Fulco di Verdura. Based in New York City, the brand quickly became known for its designs, which drew inspiration from various sources, including ancient Greek and Roman art, traditional costumes from around the world, and even forms of flora and fauna. Many of Verdura’s signature pieces are characterized by bold, colorful gems set in intricate and unusual shapes, and celebrities and socialites worldwide have worn the brand’s work.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, the iconic designer, collaborated with the legendary jewelry designer Duke Fulco di Verdura during the 1930s. The two visionaries were introduced by Cole Porter in Paris and quickly formed a deep friendship, eventually leading to the creation of some exquisite pieces of jewelry that remain relevant today. Verdura was known for his extravagant and colorful jewelry pieces inspired by nature, while Chanel was a woman who valued simplicity and elegance. Together, they created some striking pieces that combined the best of both worlds.
Verdura designed his first pair of Maltese Cross Cuffs for Coco Chanel, using gems from her personal collection. He eventually created several pairs of cuffs for the couturière, which became a timeless classic and part of Coco Chanel’s signature style. The design was inspired by the tile pattern of the basilica in Aachen, Germany, which she had seen during her travels. The cuff was crafted in gold and embellished with precious stones of sapphires and diamonds and adorned with the iconic Maltese cross in the center.
Another notable piece from their partnership was the Byzantine Cross brooch. The brooch’s design was inspired by the Byzantine art Chanel admired during her travels to Russia. The piece was made with gold and precious stones like pearls and emeralds, and it features the iconic Byzantine cross design in the center. The collaboration between Chanel and Verdura set a new standard for jewelry design and has inspired many other designers over the years. Today, the pieces they created remain some of the world’s most coveted and sought-after jewelry items.
Belperron jewelers gained their claim to fame for their unconventional and daring designs, which defied the traditional norms of the time. The company was founded by the French jewelry designer Suzanne Belperron in 1919, who quickly became a prominent figure in the art of jewelry design during the Art Deco movement. Bold geometric forms, intricate carving, and the use of precious gemstones in unusual combinations characterized Belperron’s signature style. She was known for her collaborations with some of the most notable figures in the fashion industry, including Elsa Schiaparelli, The Duchess of Windsor, Diana Vreeland, and Coco Chanel. Today, Belperron designs remain highly sought after by collectors and jewelry enthusiasts worldwide. The company continues to design and create unique and beautiful pieces that push the boundaries of contemporary jewelry design.
In 2015, Belperron LLC opened its first flagship salon in over forty years on New York City’s Fifth Avenue, designed by noted architect Daniel Romualdez. Bringing all her work under one roof, the Belperron salon features the largest selection of vintage Belperron, many from important private collections from around the world. Today, the Belperron Collection, created entirely from her archive of over 9,300 gouache paintings and designs, embodies the essence of Belperron’s aesthetic. Nico Landrigan, President of Verdura and Belperron, is responsible for the revival of Madame Belperron’s work. His mission—to find and create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation of jewelry collectors. Today, both brands continue to create high-end jewelry pieces admired for their beauty, creativity, and artistry.