Orchids at Palm Court

Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Andrew Kung

The French Art Deco environs of Orchids at Palm Court provide a beautifully apropos stage for Chef Todd Kelly’s culinary theatrics. Craning my neck to admire the impressive two-story space with its Romanesque murals and original Rookwood Pottery fountain each time I have the pleasure of dining there, I need only briefly close my eyes to travel back in time and picture myself as an extra on the silver screen.

Enjoying an AAA Four Diamond ranking for the sixth consecutive year, Orchids was also recently recognized by Zagat as Cincinnati’s “best overall” restaurant for 2011 and by OpenTable as one of the top 50 restaurants in the U.S. in 2010. Recent changes to the menu and the environs reflect an effort to meld the historic ambiance with current culinary concepts. The physical changes have manifested themselves subtly: the addition of eight additional tables; minimalist table décor with candle votives and sleek glass vases containing submerged orchids and seagrass; and larger menus.

Changes to the menu balanced the need to retain popular mainstays with remaining in the forefront of fine dining in the Queen City. Executive Chef Todd Kelly, who has worked at the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza since 2006, oversees all culinary operations at the historic hotel, as well as a staff of 65. His accolades continue to pile up, and this past July he received the American Culinary Federation, Inc. 2011 U.S.A.’s Chef of the Year award at the 2011 ACF National Convention held at the Gaylord Texan in Dallas. His first cookbook, Todd Kelly’s Orchids at Palm Court, co-written with culinary blogger Courtney Tsitouris, will be available this fall.

Unable to select from so many tempting offerings during a recent visit, both my tablemate and I chose to have the chef select for us by ordering the five-course prix fixe tasting menu ($65/$85 with wine pairings). I went the vegetarian route, as the inventiveness and range of flavors presented on paper seemed instantly appealing.

Dinner for me began with an Eden Farms watercress salad dressed with golden beets, goat cheese, and hazelnut granola. I love how the beets mellowed the crisp peppery bite of the hydroponically grown watercress. My partner’s culinary adventure started out with Maine lobster salad prepared with an organic fried egg, parsley, crème Fraiche and caviar crème. We enjoyed our first course with a bread service accompanied by a trio of spreads. While the piquillo pepper pesto was my favorite, the honey wheat rolls were quite delicious on their own.

The fried green tomato salad offered for the second course certainly highlighted summer’s bounty at the peak of flavor. The firm tomatoes were perfectly seasoned with a thin layer of flavorful breading that provided just enough crunchiness.

By the time the third course was presented, we looked at each other across the table and remarked out loud in near unison: how were we possibly going to finish the last two? I have duly noted that should I choose the prix fixe on future visits I need to pace myself a little better!

Feelings of overindulged satiation quickly passed when given a dish of morel mushrooms and creamed Vidalia onions with purslane (a succulent herb that looks like a miniature jade plant) perched upon a vol-au-vent (a small hollow case of puff pastry). Calling attention to the dish like an exclamation point, a vibrantly hued hibiscus reduction was spread across the length of the plate with a painterly stroke. Every bite was absolutely delectable, making this course the highlight of my meal. Trying veal sweetbreads (with some apprehension) for the first time, my husband was pleasantly surprised and won over by the sherry vinaigrette and the accompanying celery salad and Shiitake mushrooms.

Our entrees included marinated “smoked” tofu and Prime New York Strip Loin with pickled ramps, white asparagus, Delfina potatoes, and marrow sauce. It was my turn to be pleasantly surprised as wafts of smoky aroma from the tofu preceded a flavorful sampling of what could otherwise be a flavorless cube in less skilled hands. As someone who has flirted with being a vegetarian for the better part of 20 years, I am often steered to the meat side of menus in most upscale restaurants for a lack of palatable options. Kelly has certainly raised the bar in this aspect, allowing one to forgo meat without sacrificing flavor or variety.

The dessert course was the same for both of us: a duet of Bavarian chocolate mousse and frozen lavender glacé. For the sake of journalism, we finished the artfully presented pair, and I enjoyed alternating between the richness of the chocolate against the airiness and flowery notes of the glacé.

Service was prompt but not stuffy and I loved how the wait staff, attired in contemporary Orchids logo-bedecked vests, presented and removed dishes with coordinated precision. Attention from the maitre d’, a Level II Certified Sommelier, was equally on par; he graciously replaced a Bordeaux that was unexpectedly too strong for our palette with a milder Pinot Noir even after we had taken several sips in an effort to acclimate ourselves to the bold taste profile.

Located in the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza (35 West Fifth Street) Orchids at Palm Court is open nightly for dinner (5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.). Reservations can be made by calling 513.421.9100 or visiting orchidsatpalmcourt.com.