THE SOPHISTICATED DINER

The Restaurants and Dishes I Can’t Wait to Have Again

Written by Matthew Millett / Photography by Andrew Kung

If you know me at all, then you know that I am a ‘clean plate club’ eater. It is very rare that I ever eat out and don’t finish a meal completely. Sure there might be a doggy-bag of leftovers for brunch over the weekend, but you better believe those leftovers weren’t from my plate. Over the last few years working on the features for Sophisticated Living’s food specials, I have taken a great sense of pride in trying to showcase some great restaurateurs and dishes that can’t be missed. Fortunately or unfortunately, that has carried over into a new personal passion for food and drink.

Prince Edward Island Mussels from Tony’s of Cincinnati

Whether at home or out and about, I’m always interested in what new dishes and recipes I find. Just as important as trying new dishes is seeing and learning the tricks and ways to perfect the classics (I’m a sucker for a great cheeseburger). As the trials of the coronavirus pandemic start to subside, it is important to get back out and enjoy the fruits of our labors and indulge in some of the tri-states best restaurants. Within this feature are some of my personal favorite dishes and restaurants I am looking forward to getting back out and trying again. These are some of the restaurants and dishes I can’t wait to have again.

Brussel Sprout Salad from E+O

E + O: We were very excited when E+O New Asian opened up downtown earlier this year. The earth and ocean theme refers to the blending of Asian and American cuisine. E+O brings a Chicago style swagger with a comfortable presence. The original location, now a staple situated location in Hyde Park, we have found the best sushi in town. However, you can’t go without getting the famous E+O brussel sprout and kale salad with its sweet and spicy dressing. Other favorites include any of the Buddha bowls and black miso cod. Info and reservations at: www.eokitchen.com / 513.832.1023 Hyde Park, 513.632.9181 Downtown

Sushi from E+O

Le Bar A Boeuf: Chef Jean Robert offers his spin on a ‘Beef Bar’, paired with many other accompanying French staples. Personal favorites are the Shrimp Maisonette and Artichoke appetizers, with rich and hearty classic French preparations. However, you can’t go to this restaurant and not get some sort of ‘Beef’. Again, in classic French tradition, the burgers are off the bun, and should be ordered with a side of ‘frites’ (French fries). It is easy to get carried away with you’re a’ la cart endless supply of burger toppings, I stick to any type of cheese and the onion jam (maybe bacon, maybe a sauce, maybe more, who am I kidding). Info and reservations at: www.barboeuf.com / 513.751.2333

Wagu burger from Le Bar A Boeuf

Losanti: Newcomer Anthony Sitek and wife Haley (Cincinnati native) put their culinary spin on a boutique steakhouse. Every cut is hand-selected, seasoned, prepped, and cut daily, so order early as chef cuts only the bests of the limited selection beef. Unique and delicious, the chef serves every steak with grilled garlic and a lemon wedge, which pair perfectly with all 3 (filet, ribeye, strip) select cuts. Upgrade to the port butter topping and tell me you didn’t like it! Hidden gems are the porkchop and Italian dishes. Chef Sitek’s Italian heritage recipes give Via Vite a run for the best gnocchi in town, and the roasted tomato, basil, parmesan focaccia is a can’t miss starter. Info and reservations at: www.losantiotr.com / 513.246.4213

Chef Anthony Sitek of Losanti

Prime NY Strip with Roasted Garlic and Lemon from Losanti

Metropole: The 21C staple focuses on contemporary interpretations of classic dishes. Chef David Kelsey creates entrees at Metropole that reflect a trend toward the new American cuisine, much of which is fresh and locally inspired, and much of it complex and multi-layered in flavors yet simple in ingredients. ‘Burnt’ carrot salad mixes a multitude of sweet and crispy flavors, while their burger is a staple not to be missed. Don’t be afraid of the well thought out sharable sides such as the cauliflower au gratin. Seasonal menu changes continue to be a reason to go back and see what is new to try. Info and reservations at www.metropoleonwalnut. / 513.578.6660

Metropole Candy Bar from Metropole

Mita’s: James Beard-nominated chef Jose Salazar shares his culinary roots with us in this Latin and South American tapas inspired restaurant. The tapas (small plates) forward menu allow for ultimate sharing and exploration into a little known culinary genre of spices and flavors. Including ceviche prepared multiple different ways and Iberico pork freshly sliced off the bone to order. Don’t overdo it on the tapas, as the 45-minute paella will feed the table and then some and as good as if fresh from Valencia. A personal favorite is the pulpos (octopus) which is sous vide prepared so it literally melts in your mouth. Info and reservations at: www.mitas.com / 513.421.6482

Chef Jose Salazar

Paella Valenciana from Mita’s

Please: 2020 James Beard semi-finalist for the Great Lakes Region, Ryan Santos offers up delicious fresh seasonal dishes. Having studied in France and Copenhagen, Santos brings unique dishes and flavor profiles to his restaurant unlike anything else in the city. Strong Danish profiles are blended with elements of French and Japanese cooking. Santos often tries to make vegetables the center of his dishes with meats used to accentuate the dishes, versus the other way around. For this reason, I am always intrigued by his vegetarian tasting menu and typically err on that for dinner. For dessert, do not miss a serving of something known as an apple aebleskivers (think of it as a small sweet rye flour-based pastry) with a caramel-like maple center, topped with shredded Norwegian Gjetost cheese. Info and reservations at www.pleasecincinnati.com | 513.405.8859

Apple Aebleskivers from Please

Sotto: Pasta, pasta, and more hand-rolled pasta. When ordering and visiting, it seems like half of the staff of Sotto is in the back hand-rolling pasta ALL DAY LONG. Whatever it is they are doing in the back, the flavors and textures of the pasta dishes are certainly noticed. Whether it’s the cacao e pepe, tagliatelle, gemelli, or fan-favorite short rib cappellacci, if you can get a seat, plan to get off the Keto Diet for a day, as all of the pasta is fabulous. Don’t forget to save room for the ricotta donuts… Info and reservations at www.sottocincinnati.com / 513.977.6886

Ricotta Doughnuts with three sauces from Sotto

Tano’s: “Simply Made To Matter” is the motto of chef Gaetano Williams. With a huge focus on the freshest local ingredients, the team at Tano’s Bistro is always mixing up their seasonal menu. However, the staple dish of their sweet and spicy fried chicken is reason enough to stop in and get the hands greasy. We also love anything they do with fried green tomato, appetizer, salad, anything. Now open in two locations, downtown Loveland and Hamilton. Info and reservations at: www.foodbytano.com / 513.683.8266 Loveland, 513.795.8654 Hamilton

Springer Mountain Fried Half Chicken from Tano’s

Tony’s Steak and Seafood: Purcell Marian grad and hometown hero Tony Ricci’s original Tony’s has some of the best steaks in town. We love the new outdoor patio and revitalized bar. Come any day of the week for freshly prepared food and great service. Our absolute favorite dish has always been Tony’s crab cake. We’ve even asked how it’s better and different than any other crab cake ever!? Paired with a personal best ribeye in town and you have a full belly and a happy man here. Save room for their specialty dessert cakes provided by Coco Bites of Loveland such as carrot cake and chocolate peanut butter, which run a close second to the best salted caramel cake around! Info and reservations at www.tonysofcincinnati.com | 513.677.8669

Crab Cake from Tony’s

Ahi Tuna Tartare from Tony’s

Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake from Tony’s of Cincinnati

Via Vite: Son of Chef/owner Nicola Pietoso, Cristian continues his family’s tradition of great Authentic Italian Cuisine in Cincinnati. With an evolving menu of fresh seasonal Italian dishes, there is always something new and exciting on the menu. As briefly touched on earlier, the handmade crispy four cheese, with black truffle gnocchi IS the best in the city. You simply can’t miss not trying this dish. Otherwise, I love chef Cristian’s seasonal seafood specials; Italy is surrounded by water after all. Great pizzas, bolo, and other Italian favorites (and gnocchi of course) served at two sister locations under the name Forno. Info and reservations at www.viaviterestaurant.com | 513.721.8483

Chef Cristian Pietoso of Via Vite

Gnocchi from Via Vite

Walt’s Hitching Post: If you live south of the river then Walt’s is probably your go-to for a nice night out. If you live north of the river, then you better make a reservation now. Walt’s is always busy and for good reason. Literally everything on the menu is great and their rustic horse theme is casual and Kentucky Sophisticated all at the same time. Lifetime achievement awards for the best salted rye bread, the best house dressing (tomato garlic), and the best fried chicken in the tri-state. Revitalized and managed by restaurateurs Donny Arnsperger and Bronson Trebbi elevated Walt’s into one of the best steak and seafood houses in town. We can’t get enough of their Alaskan King Crab and Oysters, but don’t undermine the chicken livers or trifecta burger (personal favorite if not getting a steak). Info and reservations at: www.waltshitchingpost.com / 859.360.2222

A Selection of Raw Bar Items & Hickory Smoked Ribs from Walt’s Hitching Post