Keys to the Castle

For the release of The Untold Story of Kentucky Whiskey, Chapter 1, Castle & Key Distillery is partnering with the Kentucky Black Bourbon Guild to make sure everyone's welcome at the bar.

Written by Bridget Williams / Photography courtesy of Castle & Key Distillery

Less than a decade ago, the physical remains of what had once been a pioneer and powerhouse in Kentucky's bourbon industry rested in ruin. Located on Glenn's Creek near Frankfort, the Old Taylor Distillery, founded in 1887 by Colonel Edmund Haynes Taylor, boasted a European-inspired castle, sunken gardens, and a springhouse. It was the original stop on Kentucky's Bourbon Trail a century before the term was made official by the Kentucky Distiller's Association. Colonel Taylor gets credit for leading the charge for the 1897 passage of the Bottled-in-Bond Act, the first consumer protection act in the United States.

According to Jonathan Newton, Director of Sales for Castle & Key Distillery, unlike today, where consumers camp out for days in an attempt to secure a new or limited-release bourbon from their favorite brand, in the late 1800s, bourbon was viewed by tipplers as "lesser than." "Colonel Taylor wanted bourbon to be the drink of kings, so he built the distillery to look like a limestone castle," Newton explained. Laying his own rail line and designation station allowed him to bring in building supplies and eventually tourists.

Will Arvin and Wes Murray purchased the 113-acre Old Taylor Distillery site in 2014 and set about restoring the entirety of the property, taking a no-expense-spared approach to warmly embracing its history. Assuming that any of the discernable patina is faux would certainly be a faux pas.

Finished before distilling restarted, Jon Carloftis is credited with reviving the grounds, which included establishing a garden that produced botanicals for Castle & Key Distillery's first release— Roots of Ruin Gin—a nod to the property's phoenix-like rebirth.

The grounds and structure surrounding the "key," a spring-fed 140,000-gallon reservoir that provides water for all spirits made from scratch on-site, are revitalized. Newton said that spring water is essential in pre-fermentation as it filters out iron and imparts calcium and magnesium, which react with the yeast. Science aside, the reservoir is an absolutely breathtaking spot to sip and savor the beauty of the natural and built environment.

Today the distillery makes its own vodka, gin, whiskey, and bourbon, all originating from a proprietary sweet mash. Castle & Key's first batch of bourbon was laid down in December 2016 and is expected to be released in the spring of 2022. While production has increased to the point where the botanicals are grown offsite for their vapor-infused gin, including seasonal blends, there is a solid commitment to sourcing raw materials locally, including nonGMO corn and wheat. Newton said they are experimenting with heirloom varieties of corn that are similar to what Colonel Taylor would have used one hundred years ago.

The seeds for Castle & Key's latest release, The Untold Story of Kentucky Whiskey, Chapter 1, can be traced to June 2020. "I noticed a bubbling up of corporate activism, but I knew we could do more than just post a black box on our Instagram feed," said Newton, a California native who has called Louisville home for most of his life and has a lengthy F&B resume. He reached out to his friend Mike Adams, a board member of the Kentucky Black Bourbon Guild (KBBG), a nonprofit organization founded in 2018 by Lexington entrepreneur Robert Beatty. Newton asked Adams what distilleries could do to be better corporate citizens, and a plan began to take shape.

"The significant contributions of African Americans to the history of bourbon are being lost to time, and we feel there need to be more voices telling their story," said Newton. He added that they plan to incorporate more historical narrative into the visitor experience at Castle & Key.

Instead of a master distiller, Castle & Key relies on a team approach, led by Arvin, Research & Development Manager Jon Brown, and Head Blender Brett Connors. A similarly collaborative approach was applied to developing The Untold Story. KBBG members selected their favorite among six Castle & Key bourbon whiskey blends. One-hundred-percent of sales resulting from the limited-edition bottling will establish a Castle & Key Scholarship Fund, administered by the Blue Grass Community Foundation, that will help promote diversity and inclusion in the distilling industry. "When you cast a wider net and invite more people to be part of the process, you end up with a better product," said Newton. As a blended whiskey, Newton added that this is technically the historic distillery's first bourbon release in a half-century.

"Make no mistake about it, this project boldly confesses a truth that most have been reluctant to merely utter aloud," Adams expressed in a press release. "Our organization is proud to work with such a courageous, forward-thinking, and fair organization as Castle & Key."

Adding a Chapter 1 designation to this bottling indicates that it will become an annual release. "We are honored to have partnered with the Kentucky Black Bourbon Guild to amplify these untold stories and to launch this important scholarship fund," said Arvin in a press release. "Our hope is to amplify the diverse history of our industry and to support a more equitable future for prospective distillers."

Located at 4445 McCracken Pike in Frankfort, Castle & Key is open for tours Thursday through Sunday. For more information and reservations, visit castleandkey.com.