Sophisticated Living Louisville Nov/Dec 2021

Page 44

Wines at Ari’s Natural Wine Co, Sutton Forest. Copyright 2019 Ari's Natural Wines Company

TEN NATURAL NEW SOUTH WALES WINEMAKERS TO LOVE Written by Kristine McCarthy

Organic. Biodynamic. Vegan-friendly. Minimal intervention. For some innovative winemakers in the southeastern Australian state of New South Wales, it's not just about what you put into the wine but what you leave out. From the North Coast Orange to the Southern Highlands to the Hunter Valley wine regions, meet the winemakers making waves with their natural wines. Sam Leyshon of Mallaluka, Yass | Now at the helm of his family winery, Mallaluka, in Yass, a three-hour drive southwest of Sydney or an hour north of Canberra, Sam Leyshon (formerly of renowned Canberra District winery Clonakilla) aims to minimize the fingerprint on his wines, using low-impact techniques such as openvat fermentation, basket pressing, and minimal additives. In addition to cool-climate favorites such as Riesling and Shiraz, his range includes lesser-known whites including Fiano, Vermentino, and aligoté, a little-known Burgundy varietal. There is no cellar door, but you can buy Mallaluka wines directly from their website. Sam Renzaglia of Renzaglia Wines, O’Connell Valley | You don't often find a Rosenberg's goanna—an Australian reptile with rugged bodies and long tails—on a wine label, but there's a reason that Sam Renzaglia's Di Renzo range of wines features wildlife on its labels. At Renzaglia Wines in the O'Connell Valley near Bathurst, a three-hour drive west of Sydney, the focus is on restoring the local ecosystem. That influences how Renzaglia treats not just his vines — minimizing herbicides and pesticides and weeding by hand — but also how he treats the rest of the property, introducing nesting boxes and planting more trees to support native birds and koalas. Renzaglia's award-winning wines, made without fining and filtering, include chardonnay, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. 42 slmag.net

Richie Harkham of Harkham Wines, Hunter Valley | When Richie Harkham describes his wines as "pure grape juice," he's talking about what he leaves out of the winemaking process: there are no chemicals, no preservatives, no additives, fining, or filtration. At this boutique Hunter Valley winery, which makes a maximum of 20,000 bottles a year, workers hand-pick all the grapes used to make its acclaimed Semillon, chardonnay, rosé, and shiraz. That's not the only thing that sets Harkham Wines apart: the winery operates according to kosher guidelines and has an on-site restaurant and accommodation for those looking for a more extended stay. Jared Dixon of Jilly Wine Co, Clunes | Jilly Wine Co. is a 40-minute drive inland from Byron Bay in the village of Clunes. Winemaker Jared Dixon sources his grapes from the cooler New England region, just a few hours away, where settlers first grew vines in the early 19th century. The crisp highland air suits varieties such as Nebbiolo, Gewurztraminer, and chardonnay, and Dixon uses natural yeasts and avoids fining and additives, apart from a small amount of sulfur. The Clunes cellar door is open only by appointment, but you can pick up a bottle or two at the Clunes Store & Cellars on Main Street in town. Tony Zafirakos at Ari's Natural Wine Co, Sutton Forest | Located in the picturesque Southern Highlands, a two-hour drive southwest of Sydney, Ari's Natural Wine Co is all about keeping it simple. Inspired by the techniques used in the Greek village where his father Ari grew up, winemaker Tony Zafirakos uses wild fermentation and harvests and processes his fruit by hand. His unfiltered, unfined, sulfur-free wines include unusual drops such as Pash & Pop, an orange wine made with Greco and zibibbo grapes fermented on skins, and Lucky No.5, a blend of the season's varieties.


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