FASHION + DESIGN: The Timelessness of Tweed

The Timelessness of Tweed

In his new book Homespun, Fashion journalist J. Joseph Pastrana proves that tweed is the once and future fabric

BYMARK SULLIVAN

J. Joseph Pastrana is a man on a mission. In his new book Homespun: True Tales of Tweed, the New York Citybased fashion journalist wants to convince you of three things about a fabric whose history goes back a few hundred years (and probably much more):

First, tweed is modern. It’s a material that’s having its moment right now, with a durability that lends itself well to upcycling. Designers can transform an old-fashioned sport coat into a sleek messenger bag.

Second, tweed is stylish. Fashion-forward designers — think Vivienne Westwood’s punk aesthetic or Alexander McQueen’s edgy takes on the classics — have used it to make strong statements. Today, Bodega uses tweed in its trademark kicks.

Third, tweed can be transgressive, whether it’s Coco Chanel’s pushing of gender roles or Bindle & Keep doing away with them altogether.

We talked to Pastrana about his inspiration for the book, designers who are doing innovative things today, and where tweed will be in 100 years.

I WONDERED WHY A FASHION JOURNALIST WOULD CHOOSE TO WRITE ABOUT TWEED, WHICH SEEMS ABOUT AS FAR FROM STYLISH AS YOU COULD GET, BUT YOU PROVE EARLY ON IN THE BOOK THAT DESIGNERS HAVE ALWAYS LOVED IT. COCO CHANEL REALLY HAD A THING FOR IT.

Admittedly, the subject was entirely my publisher's idea. It took me a week to really think about it and see if it was a topic that merited examination. While I was aware that the fabric continues to elicit respect from fashion traditionalists, even I was taken by surprise by how relevant it still is among the most cutting-edge designers. It wasn't until I really immersed myself — not just in its history, but its present — that I truly appreciated how much it matters to so many to this very day. At this point, Chanel is the house that tweed built.

AND NOW CHANEL’S ENTIRE FALL/WINTER 2022 COLLECTION IS DEDICATED TO TWEED. IS THIS EVERYTHING COMING FULL CIRCLE?

Talk about serendipity! My book was among the hundreds of projects that were delayed by the pandemic. It came out this year just before the Tweed collection was unveiled at Chanel. But again, that's the enduring quality of tweed. It will never lose relevance. The new collection is as magical yet as modern as anything out there.

MENSWEAR DESIGNER JOSEPH ABBOUD — YOU INTERVIEW HIM FOR THE BOOK — KICKED OFF HIS FIRST COLLECTION WITH PHEASANT’S EYE TWEED. HOW DID HE CHANGE OUR IMPRESSIONS OF TWEED?

What was truly remarkable about Mr. Abboud's debut was there was nothing quite like his collection in American menswear at that time. Back then, everything looked very structured and consciously corporate. He truly does have a unique eye for color combinations and textures — aspects that happen to be hallmarks of tweed. It was practically karmic.

WHAT DESIGNER TODAY WOULD YOU SAY USES TWEED IN THE MOST OFFBEAT WAY?

As I did mention in the book, Junya Watanabe once created a coat in neoprene-bonded tweed and faux-leather sleeves. Then there's Dashing Tweeds, which blends tech yarns into tweed. There are many truly groundbreaking designers who take tweed and craft it into something futuristic.

CATHERINE AITKEN — ANOTHER DESIGNER WHO SPOKE WITH YOU AT LENGTH — TRANSFORMS OLD TWEEDS INTO GORGEOUS HANDBAGS. WOULD YOU PUT HER AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE RECYCLED CLOTHING MOVEMENT?

Upcycling — as they're now calling using recycled materials and remaking them into something new — has really become an important movement in fashion today. With concerns about how much damage we're causing to the environment, brands are finally coming around to adopting production models that limit their carbon footprints. Because tweed is such a durable material, it lends itself well to being upcycled in amazing new items like Ms. Aitken's bags.

TELL ME ABOUT BINDLE & KEEP, ONE OF THE FAS- CINATING NEWER COMPANIES YOU PROFILE. HOW DID YOU FIND THEM? HOW ARE THEY CHANGING FASHION?

I had heard about Bindle & Keep before, but I honestly hadn't thought about them until I was already more than halfway through writing the book. Because I had spent enough pages writing about Savile Row, I did want to spotlight an American tailor. It occurred to me that Bindle & Keep not only exemplifies a new era of more inclusivity in fashion, but by catering to the specific needs of a community that is often misunderstood and marginalized, it illustrates the power of fashion with regards to identity and expression. With a majority of its clientele members of the LGBTQ community, it truly is among the pioneers of a growing number of companies that understand why it matters to have brands that speak directly to their needs.

WITH THE RISE OF SO MANY MODERN FAB- RICS, WHAT DO YOU THINK WILL HAPPEN TO OLD-FASHIONED TWEED?

Actually, modern fabrics are currently at a distinct disadvantage because more consumers understand that most are nonbiodegradable and only end up stockpiling in landfills. Tweed, cotton, and natural fibers have less impact on the environment, and more brands are finding ways to upcycle old materials and make them new again. In that regard, you can see that tweed is forever.

Buy the Book

Independent literary imprint house Thane & Prose launched “Homespun – True Tales of Tweed” by J.Joseph Pastrana; its much-anticipated fashion title for 2022. A must-read for true fashion fans or anyone and everyone with an interest in history and style, the non-fiction book delivers a comprehensive and entertaining look at the rich legacy of tweed while exploring contemporary use of the fabric in fashion, costumes for film, television and stage, accessories and interior design. The book is available to order in hardcover at Thane & Prose.com or Amazon.com

MARK SULLIVAN'S writing about pop culture has appeared in InStyle, Interview, and other magazines. As a travel expert, he has edited or contributed to 200 books at Penguin Random House.