FASHION + DESIGN: Tweed: Revisited, Repurposed, Reinvented

Tweed: Revisited, Repurposed, Reinvented

Tweed the versatile fabric: it served well during the early ascents of Mt. Everest and still serves well in the fashion houses of the global community.

BY CONNOR MCLEOUD

One of the time-tested champions of performance fabrics is tweed. In the book “Homespun: A Tale of Tweed”, author J. Joseph Pastrana takes the reader on a journey from the humble beginnings of tweed as a outdoor laborer’s fabric of choice to the go-to fabric of modern designers for outdoor casual wear, semi-formal wear, and non-traditional uses such as shoes, accessories, and home interiors.

Those who have worn tweed before would be familiar with the warmth and water-resistant qualities of wool that can keep the wearer warm even when wet. For the uninitiated there are benefits to wearing natural fibers over modern synthetic fabrics. The differences are more prominent when one considers the fashion and design elements in tweed patterns and tailoring.

The central character of “Homespun” is Will who makes the decision to have a suit commissioned and chronicles his inspirations and choices in fabric and design. Along the way we are introduced to manufacturers, influencers, designers, haberdashers, and entrepreneurs in fashion.

Pick your experience. You would be posh if you travel to the Isle of Lewis and Harris in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland to inspect and choose Harris Tweed fabric — then travel to Saville Row in Central London to have a bespoke suit made by expert tailors. You can be economical and find a local haberdasher in your city to create a madeto-measure suit for you. Or you can buy readyto-wear. A modern alternative to buying in a retail store is buying and submitting your measurements online.

Pick your fashion statement. If you are of Celtic heritage, you may want a suit or kilt made of authentic Harris Tweed or Irish Donegal Tweed. If you want a British retro look once popular in outdoor sporting events like hunting, fishing, and golf your kit should include: an eight-panel flat cap, plus fours, waistcoat, and coat. If you want the 1980’s power suit look, a statement that says, “power, seduction, and money”, made famous by the Gordon Gekko character in “Wallstreet” (1987) your kit should include: a well fitted suit with clean lines, contrasting collar and cuff shirts,

expensive accessories and of course the braces. If your goal is to look well dressed like James Bond, just about every actor in the franchise has worn tweed. The options are more plentiful choosing the custom-made route since the designer may be willing to do work others will not.

The design should fit the use. The season for tweed falls primarily between October and March. Geographic regions where the fabric is more comfortable to wear include the United Kingdom, northeastern USA, northwestern USA, Europe and Japan. Tweed fabrics are also categorized by function. The function should definitely match the design. Functional tweeds include: gamekeeper, sporting, thornproof, and super-soft tweeds. Tweed can be popular for heritage, or themed, places and events. Themed places and events can include weddings, restaurants, bike rides, cosplay, or steampunk gatherings. Tweed Runs, organized bicycle group rides, have become popular all over the world. The first Tweed Run was in London in 2009. Participants wear tweed outfits and vintage bicycles are encouraged.

The general consensus from conservation organizations and from the fashion industry is that natural fiber fabrics like wool and cotton are the most eco-friendly. Tweed, which is made from tightly woven wool, is long lasting and durable. Tweed serves the slow fashion movement, that started in the late 2000’s, as a fabric that can be repurposed into something else that it was intended to be. The slow fashion movement started in opposition to fast fashion which critics blame for poor working conditions in developing countries and polluting the earth with non-biodegradable materials. The drive is encouraging social responsibility to move towards sustainable and ethically produced fashion. Designer Catherine Aitken created her second collection of bags entirely from upcycled Harris Tweed jackets and kilts. Her current line of backpacks and messenger bags combine the past with the present by using heritage fabrics to carry modern laptops.

The markets for tweed have expanded beyond traditional men’s and women’s wear. They have been reinvented to include gender neutral wear, interior design products, footwear, and upholstery. Bindle & Keep is a LGBTQ+ friendly

establishment in Brooklyn NY that can make bespoke suits for anyone, however, they have a specialization in transgender clients. They have an understanding of the unique needs of their clients, their different body types, and are willing to redefine what is considered masculine, feminine, or non-binary. Glant Textiles, located in Seattle WA, is a textile house that serves the interior designer market. They make tweed fabrics that can be used to make furniture upholstery, wall coverings, curtains, carpeting, runners, and walkways. Tweed footwear is sometimes released as limited-edition collections. Bodega Store, in Boston MA, collaborated with designer Mark McNairy to create the Country Brogue Shoes made of tweed and leather. Nike released a set of sneakers called the Air Royalty Harris Tweed “Vach Pack” in 2010. In 2009 there was a collaboration between Harris Tweed, Isabel Wong, and Alpha Romero in the launch of the MiTo car. The interior car seats and door panels were upholstered in tweed and a model wearing Isabel Wong’s tweed outfit stood next to the car.

Tweed fabrics started out as a necessity for fishermen and farmers in Scotland long ago to perform their work in cold damp climates. The characteristics of warmth and water resistance has made it popular in outdoor sports and activities. The colors and patterns of tweed have made it popular in fashion. Even if one is just looking for a simple Ivy League casual look — a tweed sports jacket looks good with jeans, a casual button-down shirt and leather shoes.

Buy the Book

Independent literary imprint house Thane & Prose launched “Homespun – True Tales of Tweed” by J.Joseph Pastrana; its much-anticipated fashion title for 2022. A must-read for true fashion fans or anyone and everyone with an interest in history and style, the non-fiction book delivers a comprehensive and entertaining look at the rich legacy of tweed while exploring contemporary use of the fabric in fashion, costumes for film, television and stage, accessories and interior design. The book is available to order in hardcover at Thane & Prose.com or Amazon.com

CONNOR MCLEOUD developed an appreciation for well tailored suits while working in New York City in the securities industry during the 1990's U.S. economic boom.