fwt food wine travel
Coral Spawning in St. Lucia You deserve it.
Esencia Estate Luxury and Tranquility in Mexico’s Riviera Maya
The best in food, wine and travel brought to you quarterly Issue one coming soon
explore! savor! live!
SUMMER 2015
SAMPLE
contents 6 Coral Spawning in St. Lucia 12 Esencia Estate Luxury and Tranquility in Mexico’s Riviera Maya
16 Haute Cuisine of the
12 16
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Riviera Maya
depts
20 Mision Wine: a Surprise in
Mexico’s Copper Canyon
From the Editor
26 Exploring the World’s Most
What you are looking at.
Crowded Island
Contributors
37 Enchanting Enchantment in
to this issue.
Sedona
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Letters Readers respond.
Gear Travel light, travel well.
Last Shot Water lilies.
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contributors Andrew T. Der As an environmental consultant, I have, for the last 30 years, written for land development companies and government agencies requiring technical and scientific guidance in the environmental disciplines.
Susanna Starr A writer, photographer, artist and author of Fifty and Beyond; New Beginnings in Health and Well Being, Susanna has had extensive experience as a speaker, appearing on many talk radio shows.
Marilyn Green (future issue) In addition to nature, my primary destination interests are creative and cultural family destinations, unique resorts, eco-travel, and the occasional offbeat experience.
Janice Nieder (future issue) In addition to nature, my primary destination interests are creative and cultural family destinations, unique resorts, eco-travel, and the occasional offbeat experience.
fwt food wine travel
FWT magazine: food wine travel published by the International Food, Wine and Travel Writers Association IFWTWA.org
Contact IFWTWA: admin@ifwtwa.org FWT Magazine: FWTmag@ifwtwa.org Advertising: ad.FWTmagazine@gmail.com Publisher: IFWTWA Publications Honorary Publisher: Denis Gagnon Executive Editor: John Lamkin Associate Editor: Rebecca Rhoades Contributing Editor: Susanna Starr Contributing Editor: staff Web: Timothy Lack, Charlotte County Websites Editor: staff Creative Director: Dan Kuehn Social Media Adviser: Catherine Sweeney Advertising & Design Adviser: Rusty Rae Publications Adviser: Allen Cox Technical Adviser: Trisha Miller
Maralyn Hill (future issue) Maralyn Dennis Hill, The Epicurean Explorer, was born to travel and tell the tale. From local cuisine to Michelin Star, simple to gourmet, Maralyn enjoys it all.
Dan Kuehn Our guest photographer is also does design for web and print from his home north of Taos, in Questa, New Mexico. Dan is the author of Mongolian Cloud Houses.
On the Cover UNESCO Pitons from Jade Mountain Reflecting Pond, photo by Andrew T. Der.
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�elaxation, luxury, romance
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Toll Free: 1.800.247.5159
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From the Editor
Unimog and editor.
W
hat you are looking at now is a sample issue of the quarterly FWT Magazine, show-and-tell, a teaser. This is a hint at what issue one will look like. If you are a potential subscriber (it’s free for now), or you would like to contribute (IFWTWA members - email us about joining), or maybe you’d like to advertise (also info about free ads here), this sample should give you an idea of who we are and what we have to offer. We have included a couple of travel features for you. Andrew T. Der takes you diving in St. Lucia and Susanna Starr introduces you to the Duchess’s Estate -- luxury digs in Mexico’s Riviera Maya. Issue one will feature luxury travel and we intend to keep bringing you, our discriminating reader, the finest features in food, wine (plus other beverages) and travel. Please sign up for your free subscription now. Let is know what you would like to see in upcoming issues. Cheers, John Lamkin, Executive Editor The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page. – St. Augustine
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Snorkeling the Reef, Anse Chastanet
Coral Spawning in St. Lucia You deserve it. by Andrew T. Der photos by Andrew T. Der and Bernd Rac
Previous spread: Snorkeling the Reef Anse Chastanet Left: Town of Soufriere, with breathtaking rain-forested mountains right up to rocky seashores.
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n the weightless darkness of the warm underwater ocean night, I eagerly observed the confetti clouds of spawning coral floating up on cue like upward falling snow just days after the first August full moon. Exchanging glances with unusual sea creatures with glowing eyes that only come out at night distracted me from the only sound of air bubbles gently rippling past my ears from the scuba tank regulator. This natural wonder is not just another Caribbean attraction, but rather a surreal combination of a novice level scuba experience along with a recently-discovered internationally rare
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marine biology occurrence normally experienced in a text book. Even better, this world-renowned ecological event is easily accessed by a short flipper swim from the remote yet comfortable environmentally-sensitive resort of Anse Chastanet (Chastanet harbor), in the West Indian island of Saint Lucia. Locally pronounced “Saint Looshia”, this island mix of French, English, African, and Creole history in the West Indies is not only an educational and cultural experience in its own right, but also lies in wait as an under appreciated summer getaway with rare nature experiences ranging from tropical ocean reef to rain forest mountain preserves in one place.
The Caribbean may not be at the top of many summer vacation plans but perception of overly hot experiences does the tropical island paradise a great disservice since summer temperatures are easily exceeded in North America. Somehow the island water is just a bit bluer and warmer then, but more important, that is when the most sea creature action is. Named after Saint Lucy from French influences, most references to Saint Lucia focus on the touristy northern capital city of Castries with mainstream developed beach resorts. Although part of a colonial tug-of-war between the British and French from a slavery-based boom in tropical produce trade, English predominates as the official language with Patois (Patwa or Patwah), a local frequently-spoken Creole dialect mix, on numerous islands. Today, agriculture has been perfected as an eco-friendly sustainable and organic industry of superior farm-to-table produce secondary to tourism and nature-appreciation – and the islanders do appreciate and welcome visitors. Bypass the capital if time is limited since more of Saint Lucia’s gems are to be found in the lesser traveled south near the second largest city of Soufriere (sulphur in French), named after the sulphur-laden odor and springs associated with the Caribbean’s only drive-through active volcanic area nearby. Volcanoes are in fact the basis of the Island’s formation with breathtaking rain-forested mountains right up to rocky seashores. The two main remnant volcanic peaks, or Pitons, a UNESCO World Heritage site, visually predominate and are popular post card images with the bigger one being climbable. This region is also where Anse Chastanet’s Scuba Saint Lucia, the island’s
main five-star Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) dive operation, provides the only beach access to this incredible reef spawning experience, and is one of the main unique natural resources and marine biological events in the world. A core attraction of any low maintenance eco-travel experience in Saint Lucia, this reef draws other island dive operations here by boat because it is so good. The coral dive is done in the evening with a guide, and a lucky observer will see clouds of tiny white dots of sperm/ egg packets floating up in unison so vividly that Jacque Cousteau would be envious. Founded in 1981 as one of the Caribbean’s premier one-stop-shop dive facilities located in the pristine Soufriere Marine Management Area and Reserve, Scuba St. Lucia is efficiently ideal for the beginner or novice diver whether you check out the coral
Right: Scuba St. Lucia at Anse Chastanet Beach Top: Three Spawning Brittle Starfish with Two Sea Urchins (Bernd Rac, of Scuba St. Lucia)
spawning event or not – and they can hook up any budding marine biologists with all the instruction necessary. My favorite feature is accessing the reef right off the beach from your room – no boat ride necessary – and can be as shallow or deep as desired. Don’t scuba? No problem since most of the cove is easily enjoyed by snorkeling. No equipment or don’t want to bring it with you? No worries – everything is provided.
If trying scuba for the first time has lingered on your to-do list way too long, or maybe you are a bit apprehensive, this is the place to do it. Take an introductory resort certification which allows a dive the same day in shallow water with a guide. This is where anyone with any level of interest in marine biology can have all of the fun and none of the work. Be prepared to learn about the region’s sensitive ecosystem and to identify lots of sea creatures.
Anse Chastanet is the only resort servicing the reef right offshore, but that is a good thing since there is absolutely no reason to stay anywhere else. In keeping with the area’s ecologically sensitive development and conservation initiatives, the resort is brilliantly constructed around, and with, the natural environment with local materials, and no tree removal, rain water runoff or earth moving. This is all done without roughing it or giving up any amenities as some eco-travel requires, and includes its own farm-to-table food preparation of premium “East Indian Saint Lucian Fusion” providing business opportunities for the local community. If the freshest most exotic fruit and vegetables ever eaten is not appealing, you do not belong here. Demonstrating the natural resource and ecological link-
ages of the freshest in-house premium meal production compatible with the environment, three premium restaurants and two bars (try the local fresh banana daiquiri) prepare only locally supplied ingredients with menu variations reflecting what is most available or fresh. A best kept secret, that is not so secret, is Anse Chastanet’s 600 acre estate which includes two sand beaches mingled with volcanic cliffs, and the premium internationally famous Jade Mountain Resort next door which is not only frequented by celebrities, but also on the most prominent travel publication top best-of lists for luxury and couples getaways featuring in-room private pools and individual butler service. Make no mistake, Anse Chastanet’s and Jade Mountain’s environmental stewardship is clearly a success with
its ecologically sensitive sustainable designs and resource management. The rooms and common areas are an amazing blend of secluded nature-compatible architecture and “tree houses”. These resource-dense surroundings result in a plethora of other efficient onestop-shop ecological choices without additional effort for those who desire to experience numerous natural habitats in one place. One room even constructed its bathroom around a tree rather than cut it down. When not submerged in or around the water, ask about Scuba Saint Lucia’s sister operations, Kayak Saint Lucia to explore secluded coves and shorelines, and Bike Saint Lucia for jungle forest trail riding in the Anse Mamin nature preserve next door. These remains and ruins of an 18th century co-
lonial plantation are now a beachside rain forest that offers unlimited hiking, exotic plant identification for the inner botanist, or bird watching either alone or with a local guide. Most important, do not forget to simply do nothing on their full service beaches which include food and drink service, beach chairs, beach towels, complimentary use of snorkel gear, stand-up paddle boards, windsurfers, kayaks, and Sunfish sailing. Take a yoga class, imbibe at the local beach bar, or get pampered right on the surf with their beach accessible spa offering way more varieties of services, therapies, and beauty treatments than I ever heard of, but then I am a guy. I highly recommend the massage before sunset. You deserve it.
Andrew T. Der As an environmental consultant, Ted T. Der has, for the last 30 years, written for land development companies and government agencies requiring technical and scientific guidance in the environmental disciplines. For the last 10 years, his interests and expertise have wandered into travel journalism as an opportunity to establish a successful published story-base to explore more diverse and creative professional opportunities. In addition to nature, primary destination interests are creative and cultural family destinations, unique resorts, eco-travel, and the occasional offbeat experience.
Above: Author Observing Coral Spawning Release Left: Coral Releasing External Spawning Packets Photos on thess two pages by Bernd Rac of Scuba St. Lucia
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Esencia Estate Luxury and Tranquility in Mexico’s Riviera Maya Article & photos by Susanna Starr
Esencia Estate resort and spa, entrance.
R
iviera Maya is stunning with its super luxurious hotels built along one of the most beautiful strips of beach on the Yucatecan coastline. But there was a time, not so very long ago, when all that was to be seen was undifferentiated jungle. The few small Maya houses that were there were set far enough back from the road as to be invisible. In the nineteen seventies, eighties and nineties some adventurous travelers to this remote area of the Yucatan Peninsula fell in love with the glorious beaches and amazing colors of the Caribbean ocean. Some were able to purchase land there and build their own private bit of paradise. One of these was do単a Rosa, Duchess of Ferrari, from Italy. Building her own vacation estate on the edge of a small, pristine cove, do単a Rosa spent some of her time enjoying the feeling of living where others had not yet intruded. Much to her credit, she made no attempt to place her European stamp on this traditional area of the ancient Maya. She left the jungle pretty much intact. Because of this, the new owners of Esencia Estate have been able to maintain that early feeling of discovery and has afforded its guests the opportunity to experience that same feeling of living in the natural environment. The initial entrance is discreet with little to herald the small, intimate resort that lies set back close to the beach. Walking along a path through old and new growth foliage, trees and shrubs, there is little imposition upon the natural landscape. The present owners have decided to maintain the feeling of the original
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Left: Pool at Esencia Estate Below: Chef, breakfast by the pool
pottery and found wood that have been interestingly used as decoration. Meandering paths through the jungle will get you there from your private casita.
home, making the downstairs area into the welcoming and warm lobby, much the same as it would have been in her day when the area was a living room, overlooking a spectacular view of beach and ocean. Of course, it’s been enhanced to provide the luxuries that the modern day traveler is expecting. There are two pools close to the beach, two dining rooms, one on the beach and one set back onto a large, lush, lawn. Neither are pretentious but the food is beautifully prepared and presented. Families are very welcome with facilities for child care. In addition to the powdery white sand of the beach, the pool and the shallow waters of the cove are particularly appealing for children. The 29 ocean, garden view, suites and cottages that have been added appear unpretentious, but are well designed and spacious, providing all the modern amenities of television, electric shades, bathrooms with robes and luxury toiletries. Our suite had a private plunge pool outside which could be entered from the shower as well as the interior of the bathroom. Surrounded by growth on all the open sides, it provided complete privacy. With 50 acres of the private estate, privacy is the working word of this boutique hotel. An unobtrusive delivery of coffee and sweetbread early in the morning greeted the day. The birds were
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uninvited guests but obviously made to feel welcome as they perched upon the table when we took a short break to go inside. Apparently they feel quite comfortable in their natural environment and must consider the tasty leftovers just part of having their space shared with the Estate’s guests. There is also the very natural feeling of the Aroma Spa built in the same area as the spaciously scattered accommodations. In keeping with the feeling of “realness,” the spa offers a variety of treatments in an extremely natural setting. The décor is specifically Mayan with colorful additions of textiles,
Yoga sessions are held further out on the lush lawn just past the main house and before the beach, at the far end of one of the pools. In addition to the outdoor porches of the guest suites, relaxing is easy on lounge chairs around both pools, at the outdoor dining tables or on the lounges on the beach. Great food and drink are available from complimentary breakfast on the beach served at the poolside (including individual french presses for fresh coffee) to dinner at the main restaurant. Although all the attractions of the Riviera Maya are within easy reach of Esencia Estate, it’s so appealing to simply relax away from all “activity” that you can find yourself so perfectly satisfied and content being away from “the madding crowd” that you might just pass all your days right here and know you’ve “gotten away from it all” ……..that worked for me!
Top: View from pool Middle: Spa & Lobby detail Bottom: Breakfast
If you go Most major airlines fly into Cancun International Airport (CUN) and Riviera Maya is easily accessible from CUN by land transport.
For information: Mexico Tourism Riviera Maya Adventure in Quintana Roo Mexican Caribbean
Where to stay: Esencia Estate
Susanna Star Writer, photographer, artist and author of Fifty and Beyond; New Beginnings in Health and Well Being, Susanna has had extensive experience as a speaker, appearing on many talk radio shows. Among other venues she has been an editor for Let Life In and a contributor to Your Life is a Trip. As a travel writer she draws upon a lifetime of experiences living in areas where the indigenous people still maintain their culture.
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Last Shot
Maui Lily Pond, Dan Kuehn, guest photographer