SE LONDON JOURNAL
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL No.15 THE DRINK ISSUE 1
SE LONDON JOURNAL
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Don’t miss Ribera: Art of Violence, the inspiration behind the range until 27 January In-store or online at dpg.art/shop
#RiberaAoV @DulwichGallery
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
WELCOME NOTE Welcome to the fifteenth edition of South East London Journal, The Drink Issue. Whether it’s popping round to a friend’s house for a cuppa,
catching up over a beer or chatting to the barista at a local coffee shop, drinking is a large part of socialising, and has been throughout the centuries. In ancient Greece, a social gathering over a drink was known as a symposium - these gatherings could involve anything from serious discussions to full-on indulgence. In ancient Rome, a similar concept of a convivium took place regularly. South East Londoners are spoilt for choice when it comes to picking a place to socialise with a drink in hand, but for this issue we showcase some of the area’s finest brewers, fermenters, distillers and tea connoisseurs. All are passionate about their craft as well as being at the forefront of the movement towards a more sustainable - and consciously local - way of producing. Expect interviews with Good & Proper Tea, Kanpai Sake and Gosnells Mead as well as a local beer and gin round-up and a photostory looking as some of South East London’s historic public houses. We made a conscious decision to save coffeerelated content for a future issue as there are never enough pages! Thank you as always to the wonderful and generous businesses who support the Journal, keeping it free and accessible to everyone, and to those who contributed to No.15 - The Drink Issue. We hope you all enjoy it - see you in the New Year! SELJ x
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL A free local culture journal Issue No.15 — The Drink Issue E D I T O R + C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R jessica@selondonjournal.co.uk DESIGN polly@selondonjournal.co.uk SUB-EDITOR Fleur Treglown ADVERTISING advertising@selondonjournal.co.uk info@selondonjournal.co.uk www.selondonjournal.co.uk @selondonjournal COVER PHOTOGRAPH Freddie Payne
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, South East London Journal does not accept liability for any errors or omissions within this issue. Reprinting of any article or original images from South East London Journal without express permission of the Editor is expressly forbidden. © South East London Journal 2018
E FR E
««««
‘It sparks off questions at every turn.’ EVENING STANDARD
MAKING A NEW WORLD When the First World War ended, a new world began.
Until 31 March 2019 EXHIBITIONS | SOUND | ART | PHOTOGRAPHY LIVE MUSIC | FILM | DANCE | CONVERSATIONS & MORE
IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM LONDON LAMBETH NORTH |
WATERLOO AND ELEPHANT & CASTLE IWM.ORG.UK
Y TR EN
A SEASON OF FREE EVENTS & EXHIBITIONS
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
_CONTENTS culture calendar _p.8
food edit _p.12
south east london beer _p.14
pubs with history _p.24
south east london gin _p.35
hop burns and black _p.42
kanpai sake _p.46
good and proper tea _p.48
l'oculto / wine _p.53
the larder / wine_p.55
wine terms _p.57
inside a home _p.60
children's what's on _p.80
No No No No No No No
wide angle lenses tie-in period gazumping small print* cold calls clichĂŠs BS
Welcome to an intelligent and ethical approach to estate agency
* We are moving south of the river brickworkslondon.com
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
BLOOMBERG N E W CONTEMPOR ARIES 05 DECEMBER TIL 24 FEBRUARY Bloomberg New Contemporaries showcases some of the most dynamic work being made by emergent artists. The exhibition spans the SLG’s main site and the new Fire Station. Expect drawing, painting, sculpture, installation, performances and video. Migration, borders, cultural and gender identity, as well as the use of technology are strong thematic threads running through the works on show. S O U T H L O N D O N G A L L E R Y, S E 15
C U L T U R E
THE COCOA BUT TER CLUB’S WINTER WONDERLAND 6 - 7 DECEMBER
The Cocoa Butter Club’s spirited soirée is a celebration of performers of colour. Wrapped in your favourite Neo-Soul, RnB, Jazz, Motown and Blues discover Burlesque, live music, erotic poetry, comedy and more… So, lotion up baby, it’s time chase the winter blues away and get you screaming ‘yaaaaas queen, smell like cocoa butter up in hurr!’ T H E A L B A N Y, S E
NEW YEAR’S EVE WITH RHY THM SECTION 31 D EC EM B ER
A no line-up, no mega hype, secret special guests, simple but effective NYE party to inaugurate the new calendar. This year Rhythm Section bring the dance to Ghost Notes. Like every year, this will almost definitely sell out. G H O ST N OT E S , P E C K H A M L E V E L S , S E15
B E AT I N G T H E B O U N D S
T I L 19 JA N UA RY
First London-based solo show for ceramicist Emilie Taylor, featuring a collection of new works exploring motherhood and the shape-shifting female body. B O S S E A N D B AU M , S E15
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
YA N N T I E R S E N
19 - 2 0 FE B R UA RY Hear tender piano-led works from the French composer and multi-instrumentalist behind the Amélie soundtrack, performing from his new album All. All is the first recording from Yann Tiersen's new studio, The Eskal Project, built in an abandoned discotheque on the island of Ushant, positioned between Brittany and Cornwall. R OYA L F E S T I VA L H A L L , S E 1
13 F E B R UA RY - 10 J U N E
Showcasing the highly original landscapes of the Norwegian symbolist artist, Harald Sohlberg (1869 – 1935), arguably one of the greatest masters of landscape painting in the history of Norwegian art. Timed to coincide with the 150th anniversary of Sohlberg’s birth it will be the first major show of his work outside of Norway. D U L W I C H P I C T U R E G A L L E R Y, S E 2 1
THE CONVERT
7 DECEMBER TO 26 JAN
Black Panther star and Tony-nominated writer Danai Gurira’s striking play explores if faith has a cost and if so, when is that cost too much? YOUNG VIC, SE1
J IV E PA RT Y
21 DECEM BER
Put on your dancing shoes for a night in the iconic Rivoli Ballroom — live band, DJs and a beginners’ jive lessona all make this the best jive, swing and original R&B night around. No pressure to dance - but you’ll probably want to. R I VA L B A L L R O O M , S E4 11
C A L E N D A R
HA R A L D SO H L B ER G: PA I N T I N G N O R WAY
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
1 . o N R E T P A d H o C o _f
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HOTEL CHOCOLAT HOT CHOCOLATE — HOTEL CHOCOLAT, SE1
VESPER MARTINI — MYATT'S FIELD COCKTAILS, SE5
DASH WATER SQUASHED RASPBERRIES — ANDERSON & CO, SE15
REMEDY — BOTTLE BAR & SHOP, SE6
SWEETDRAM SMOKED SPICED RUM — HOP BURNS & BLACK, SE22
CALLEJUELA AMONTILLADO — L'OCULTO, SE4
MELANGE HOT CHOCOLATE — MELANGE, SE15
BRITISH CASSIS — THE HILL BAKERY, SE5
BABY OTIS — MYATT'S FIELD COCKTAILS, SE5
DASH WONKY CUCUMBERS — ANDERSON & CO, SE15
GOOD & PROPER BROCKLEY BREAKFAST — BROCKLEY MARKET, SE4
SWEETDRAM WHISKY AMARO — HOP BURNS & BLACK, SE22
From the Bermondsey Beer Mile to Brockley B r e w e r y, h e r e ' s s o m e o f S o u t h E a s t L o n d o n ' s best beer makers.
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Having spent a lifetime travelling with family, for work and for the love of it, brothers Dan and Tom Lowe wanted to take their experience of drinking great beers in amazing locations and bring it home. In 2013, the UK beer scene was beginning to flourish, new breweries were embracing moder n takes on traditional ales, and beer lovers were drinking new and interesting beers. Wanting to provide a moder n interpretation of what beer could be, their founding ideals of quality, sustainability and education are based upon a respect for the four core ingredients used to make beer: water, grain, hops and yeast - hence the name Fourpure.
SOUTH EAST LONDON BEER 17
Orbit's story began when founder Robert set off on a jour ney in his VW campervan to discover beer in Scotland. The expedition took him to every single brewery in his native country, from the norther nmost island in Shetland to the Outer Hebrides, the Scottish Borders and even his home town of Dundee. Retur ning to London with a bur ning desire to start his own brewery, he moved into a double railway arch in Walworth in early 2014 and began brewing. With a music-leaning brand identity and a philosophy deeply rooted in European tradition with a moder n approach, Orbit take classic styles make them its own, with one eye on finesse and drinkability.
Starting from humble roots in a Peckham shed, owners Ian and Sally Stewart have been building their independent, family-run brewery since 2013. Originally based in a railway arch in Peckham Rye, they sought to break down the barriers between brewing and the consumer via their brilliant Tap Room. With community as an important part of their business, they work closely with local initiatives and businesses to support and provide opportunities for local people. About to celebrate their fifth birthday with the release of the Sour Series, they also recently outgrew the original brewing site and opened a new Deptford-based brewhouse.
Founded by by Paul Anspach and Jack Hobday, A&H have been trading since 2014 on Druid Street, along what has become known as the world-renowned Bermondsey Beer Mile. Beginning by brewing 100 litre batches themselves, they now brew 1100 litres a batch and employ eight members of staff. Having just opened a new beer bar in Camberwell called The Pigeon, they have expansion on their minds and are currently crowdfunding to treble their production and renovate their current space into an expanded taproom and beer barrel ageing program. They are keen on getting local support and investment from SE London, as they believe that the best possible owners for the business are Londoners who appreciate good beer. Our favourite of theirs is The Porter; packed with roast coffee and chocolate aromas, with just a hint of dark fruit, it’s Anspach and Hobday’s award-winning signature beer, first brewed in their kitchen back in 2013.
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YOUR DECEMBER DIARY Saturday 1st December, 12–4pm ASTERLEY BROS TASTING Try some fantastic, locally made British Bitters. Asterley Bros, residents of Forest Hill, are showcasing their Amaro and Vermouth, perfect Christmas gifts!
Sunday 9th December LAST CHANCE TO WIN, ORDER NOW! Place your Christmas order by today and go in the draw to win our fantastic festive hamper! Don’t miss out!
Thursday 6th December, 4–7pm LES CAVES DE PYRENE WINE TASTING Wines specially chosen to be perfect for Christmas dinner and parties, and chat with Didier, who supplies us and many great restaurants round London.
Thursday 13th December, 4–7pm 161 KIRKDALE WINE TASTING Alex from our favourite bar is giving out tastes and advice on what to drink over the festive season – expect lots of natural wines from small producers.
A BUTCHER ISN’T JUST FOR CHRISTMAS
Sunday 16th December CHRISTMAS ORDERS CLOSE Last chance, don’t miss out on dinner – 3pm (in store) and 7pm (online). Monday 24th December LE GRAPPIN WINE TASTING Come taste what these local legends have been making in France and pick up a bottle or bagnum. As always, Andrew and Emma from Le Grappin join us for one of our favourite Christmas traditions. Great wine and festive vibes! Saturday 29th December, 12–3pm 161 KIRKDALE BUBBLES TASTING Alex from 161 will be pouring pet-nat sparklers. Perfect for a New Year’s Eve party and, he tells us, less likely to give hangovers!
Bring this flyer into any of our shops for 10% off any single purchase of your choice in January or February 2019.
49 LONDON RD, FOREST HILL, SE23 3TY WWW.THEBUTCHERYLTD.COM
THE 020 8291 4219 @THEBUTCHERYSE23
BUTCHERY EST 2011
Nestled under the arches in Her ne Hill by Brockwell Park, the Bullfinch Brewery have brewed and served their contemporary take on classic and moder n beers from their brewhouse and tap room since 2015. The beers are brewed with drinkability in mind and are all made with a nerdish attention to detail and an unwavering love of hops. The tap room (voted one of London’s best) is cosy and inviting, and serves their core range as well as rotating seasonal brews and exclusive one-off beers from the imagination of their talented brew team.
Canopy Beer Co was founded in 2014 in Her ne Hill by Matthew and Estelle Theobalds. Their unrefined, unfiltered and unpasteurised output focusses on accessible craft beers available in both can and keg. Having recently rebranded, they commissioned some of their favourite illustrators to decorate their cans and keg badges with playful animals and bright colours. The designs are inspired by the old-school parlour and pub game of Consequences, in which players take tur ns drawing sections of a figure on folded paper - with eccentric and often surreal results.
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Originally based in Somerset, then Bristol and now the Bermondsey Beer Mile, Moor Beer’s inspiration comes from living around the world and working with different beer styles and techniques. They use the German, naturally hazy philosophy, the American flavour-forward approach and the British secondary fermentation tradition to create an outcome that is an incredibly well balanced, naturally conditioned, moder n real ale. As the first brewery to be accredited by CAMRA for real ale in can, cask, keg and bottle, their most recent award was presented to them by the British Guild of Beer Writers, for Brewery of the Year 2017.
With ethics and community as a core ethos, Brockley Brewery was set up by seven founders who all live in and around Brockley. Sourcing energy from 100% renewable sources, the founders use the brewery to raise money for charities such as Shelter, Help Refugees, Cancer Research and Marie Curie. Launching new beers through their taproom, the popular Brockley Brew School is also a fantastic way to lear n about brewing - and take home 10 litres of your own beer.
The multi award winning Hiver Beer was set up by Hull-bor n Hannah Rhodes, who was previously at the popular Meantime Brewery. Using honey as a brewing sugar in the fermentation process - rather than being added as a flavouring at the end of production - Hiver also uses a lager yeast, resulting in a light, crisp beer. Having gained recognition in the brand's infancy with an award from Ocado and an endorsement from chef Tom Kerridge, Hannah moved swiftly to gain backing and expand the business. Now available on draught as well as in bottles, 10% of profits are donated to pollinator charities.
Based on Woolwich's Royal Arsenal, founder James Yeomans began Hop Stuff Brewery with a drive to make craft beer more accessible. Since opening in 2013, the Brewery has had three successful rounds of crowd funding, gained over 1,300 beer-loving investors, opened three Taproom bars and continues the pursuit of making craft beer simple and fun. Their recent collaboration with Idaho-based Barbarian Brewery saw the release of the Sour IPA – a full-bodied beer with notes of lemon sherbet and pineapple Solero.
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BOTTLED COCKTAILS SPECIALIST BOTTLE BAR AND SHOP, 2 CATFORD BROADWAY, LONDON, SE6 4SP
Spartan Brewery was established in South Bermondsey midway through 2018. After meeting through their university's Real Ale Society, Colin and Mike co-founded the brewery which focuses on lighter, easy-drinking beer brewed using only British hops. Initially their beer was only sold at the brewery's on site taproom which is open every Friday evening and all day Saturday, however it can now be found at select pubs and beer festivals across the country. Production is expected to ramp up in 2019 with some exciting new beers in the pipeline for this burgeoning young brewery.
ALSO CHECK OUT Partizan Brewery Small Beer Bianca Road Brewery U Brew Affinity Ker nel Brewery Villages Brewery Gipsy Hill Brewery
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PUBS WITH HISTORY
P H O T O G R A P H S : F R E D D I E PAY N E
With more pubs then ever facing closure, we w a n t e d t o s p o t l i g h t a f e w o f t h e a r e a ’s f i n e s t historic public houses that are still bringing the people of South East London together for a catch up over a pint, centuries after first being built. Long may they live on!
The Mayflower pub stands on the site of The Shippe pub that dates back to around 1550. The pub was rebuilt as the Spread Eagle in 1780 and then renamed The Mayflower in 1957 after the famous ship, which was moored next door before sailing to the New World back in 1920 — it is said the pub’s structure includes timbers taken from the Mayflower once it had retur ned from its transatlantic voyage. Fun fact: back in the 1800s, seafarers docking at Rotherhithe with little time to spare were able to order a pint and a postage stamp. The Mayflower is still the only pub licensed to sell US and UK postage stamps - just ask at the bar!
The charming Grade II listed Cutty Sark at Ballast Quay was built in the early 19th century, replacing an earlier pub, The Green Man. It was called the Union Taver n from 1810, which became the Union Cafe when licensing hours became more restrictive and pubs served food and light refreshments outside the licensed hours. It finally became the Cutty Sark Taver n when the tea clipper came to Greenwich in 1951.
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
Though medieval marvel The George or The George Inn is now owned by the National Trust, it is thought that the pub in some guise has been on the Borough site since the medieval period – in fact ‘Gorge’ was marked on the first map of Southwark in 1543. The original inn was rebuilt in 1677 after a serious fire that destroyed most of medieval Southwark. The George also boasts being the only surviving galleried London coaching inn – the gallery sections are where the inn’s lodging rooms were located and often doubled as the setting for Elizabethan theatrical productions overlooking the courtyard - it is said William Shakespeare was a frequent visitor, with his plays being performed in the courtyard. Charles Dickens was also a familiar face and used to frequent the Middle Room. The George is referenced in his book Little Dorrit, which was originally published in serial form between 1855 and 1857.
THE
ARCHES STUDIOS
CHRISTMAS SALE
8-9 DEC
Selling fruits and vegetables, bread, cheese, local beer, cured meat, dairy, store cupboard groceries, wine and more. Also offering gift vouchers & selection boxes for christmas.
48-50 BLENHEIM GROVE, SE15 4QL 3 MINS FROM PECKHAM RYE STATION
@ jonesofbrockley jonesofbrockley. com
IG @THEARCHESPECKHAM
354 BROCKLEY ROAD, LONDON, SE4 2BY
Although an inn built by the monks of Bermondsey Priory is known to have stood on this site since the fifteenth century, the current building dates from the early nineteenth century. HMS Temeraire, the ship that gained notoriety after service in the Battle of Trafalgar and was immortalised by J. M. W. Tur ner in his infamous painting The Fighting Temeraire, tugged to her last berth to be broken up (1838) which was painted at The Angel. The painting was voted the nation’s favourite in 2005; Tur ner must have agreed as he never sold it and referred to it as 'his darling'. Notable drinkers include Captain Cook, who supposedly drank at The Angel before he embarked on his perilous jour ney to Australia, Christopher Jones, the captain of the Mayflower, is said to have hired crew here and Samuel Pepys was a local during the 17th century.
South London
WINE TASTING IN GREENWICH AND BECKENHAM
South London
Have fun and learn about wine
WINE TASTING IN GREENWICH AND BE
Have fun and learn about wine Understand which wines you like and why
Make smarter wine choices in shops and restaurants
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Meet other people who enjoy wine
Get a free bottle of wine when you buy two tickets as a South East London Journal reader by quoting SELJoffer when booking! Learn more by visting: www.southlondonwineschool.com
Understand which wines you like and why
Make smarter wine choices in shops and restaurants Meet other people who enjoy wine
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The Victoria was built around the 1850s to cater to the railway workers that flocked to Bermondsey during the 19th century industrial boom. It’s a proper London pub with a handsome facade showing off original Truman’s signage, bottle green and cream tiles, salon doors and creeping plants which add to the charm. Thankfully the nostalgic design continues inside – think brass hardware, green leather seats, rich wood panelling and fireplaces. It’s the traditional vibe that has made it the perfect filming location for TV programmes like Ashes to Ashes, London’s Bur ning and Hustle.
Time Out Most Loved Local Shop in Catford 2018
THE
South East Cakery
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festive cheese boards SE London hampers + SE London beer boxes organic fruit + veg + local larder fresh bread + pastries + coffee craft beer + wine
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South East London has an interesting history when it comes to gin. While it never had any true gin palaces (most of its historic hostelries are former market taver ns or coaching/pilgrim inns), it was the site of many of the first stills during the Gin Craze – and also many illegal ones afterwards. The traditional riverside industries of tanning, dying and brewing served to hide the sound and smell. But the region has also boasted some of the largest legitimate distillers with Seager's in Deptford (since tur ned into flats) and Beefeater in Kennington – still one of the longest-running distilleries in the country. Gordon's gin was also founded in Bermondsey, before moving across the river in 1786. For a long time, Beefeater was the only gin distillery in the whole of London – that is until Sipsmith was granted a license in 2009 for their still in Chiswick. Since then, small batch stills have cropped up all over the city with South East London boasting some of the best.
SOUTH EAST LONDON GIN INTRO: BOBBY DIABOLUS
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A distinctive fresh, crisp taste, Fatty's key ingredient is dill – the word Dulwich meaning 'the meadow where Dill grows'. It's made to the highest organic standards using organic grain and botanicals carefully selected from around the world. Less than a year old, this gin is run by Dulwich-based Philippa Gee. It's already received a gold medal in the Organic Category at the Gin Masters 2018, and is one of the only organic gins on the market.
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
TomCat Six is a collaboration between Team Catford and Forest Hill Gin Club to mark Catford Gin Festival, which is South London’s largest event of its kind. In the space of two years the Catford Gin Festival has grown from a disused shop unit in Catford Shopping Centre to the beautiful Art Deco Catford Broadway Theatre with over 20 gin distilleries exhibiting over three days. Right at the heart of this is TomCat Six gin. Combining London’s historic gin heritage with the traditional sweetened Old Tom style and Catford’s moder n mindset, it was the first UK gin to be made infusing Scotch bonnet chillies. Warm and spicy with six SE6 botanicals of juniper, angelica, orris root, juniper, cardamom, as well as the Caribbean Scotch bonnets, TomCat isn’t as juniper-heavy as the better known London Dry gins. An incredibly versatile gin, TomCat works beautifully over the rocks with a quality tonic water or in the ultimate Negroni.
Brockley-based Sweetdram is a moder n distiller which prides itself on doing spirits a bit differently. As the bottle says, this is not a gin – in fact there's not a juniper berry insight. But it is packed full of botanicals such as caraway, cardamom, nutmeg and citrus and mixes incredibly well with tonic. It's sweetened with raisins and vanilla, and naturally coloured with saffron.
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
Bottle Bar and Shop is the Catford-based brainchild of passionate mixologist Xhulio Sina and his wife, Natalie John. Their vision was to open a bar and a shop that could offer homemade bottled drinks and cocktails. They infuse, mix, create, prepare and bottle all of their carefully crafted creations themselves in-house. Our favourite is their Cranberry Gin - a London Dry Gin infused with fresh cranberries that’s best served over tonic and ice with a slice of lemon.
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On a Friday evening in late 2014, Mean Gin's founder, Chris, prepared himself a gin and tonic in his Greenwich flat. Uninspired with the outcome, he began thinking how the gin could be improved. This began a two-year jour ney to create his perfect gin. Countless test distillations and re-workings of the recipe later, Mean London Dry Gin is now distilled in small batches in South London by his Master Distiller and retains most of the original botanicals thought up in that first night in Greenwich. It harks back to Greenwich’s maritime history, with the addition of many botanicals which would have arrived on the Peninsula’s docks from Asia in the
A L S O C H E C K O U T: C AT F O R D G I N F E S T I V A L F O R E S T H I L L G I N F E S T I VA L LITTLE BIRD GIN DODD'S GIN JENSEN'S GIN
19th century, resulting in a London Dry Gin with cardamom and citrus forward, and a slight spice undertone.
HOW TO DRINK WELL THIS FESTIVE SEASON Hop Burns & Black specialises in craft beer and natural wines, as well as hot sauce
(the Burns) and vinyl records (the Black), with award-winning shops in Peckham and
Deptford, as well as online. The HB&B team are all about quality eating and drinking – HBB give us the low down on how they plan to make the most of the festive season...
Celebrate with: sparkling stuff Pet Nat (short for petillant naturel, or naturally sparkling) is one of our favourite wine trends - 2 NaturKinder Bacchus Pet Nat 2017 and Fuchs und Hase Vol 1 are two of our best-sellers. Alternatively, splurge on a naturally made Champagne such as Mouzon-Leroux L'Atavique Grand Cru, made with minimal sulphur and natural yeasts.
Beer-wise, you want something that’s light and spritzy. Bur ning Sky Saison Anniversaire, sold as a 750ml sharing bottle, is delicately tart and spicy and has New Year’s written all over it. Or pop the cork of a Belgian sour - the classic Boon Geuze or splash out on 3 Fonteinen Cuvee Armand & Gaston.
Christmas Day: partner your booze with your food If you’re serving up the classic turkey with all the trimmings, pair it with a zesty, spicy Saison, such as SE London’s own Partizan Lemon & Thyme Saison, or a bright, fruity pinot noir. We love Germany’s Brand Brothers Pinot Noir Pur, or go top shelf with Storm Santa Barbara County Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir. It is Christmas after all... Alongside a glazed ham, go for something sweet and sticky - a big barley wine, such as De Molen’s Juicy Loesie, riesling, or a fruity, juicy red wine. Try one of our best-sellers, Ollieux Romanis Lo Petit Fantet d'Hippolyte. If you’re dishing up beef, you want to go hearty. Try a hoppy amber ale, such as those produced by Bristol brewery Wiper & True or a roasty porter such as South London’s iconic The Ker nel Export India Porter. Opt for a full bodied red wine, such as a Shiraz or Malbec. Our second-highest-selling wine, Villa Vieja Shiraz Malbec, showcases both grapes and checks in at under a tenner. And it wouldn’t be Christmas without stuffing yourself silly on mince pies, Christmas cake and pudding. This year we plan to accompany our outrageous mince pie gluttony with a dark fruitforward beer such as Ayinger Celebrator, a German doppelbock, and sticky dessert wines and sherries. Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure Monbazillac Jour de Fruit is packed with dried fruit and apricot flavours, and Cesar Florido Moscatel Dorado is sweet and honeyed, with festive-friendly notes of orange and honeysuckle.
Keeping it veggie: check your beverages too If you’re vegetarian or vegan, or if you’re catering for veggies over Christmas, make sure you check that the beers and wines you’re serving are vegetarian/vegan-friendly. Some beer and wine is fined using animal products such as isinglass or egg whites. A lot of moder n craft beers and natural wines are vegan as they’re often unfiltered, but always check the label or ask the staff. Perfect pairings for nut roasts include a Belgian dubbel such as Trappiste Rochefort 6, or a full-bodied red wine - push the boat out with a big Califor nian red Notary Public Santa Ynez Valley Caber net Sauvignon. Both vegan-friendly, both delicious.
Look out for Hop Burns & Black’s new book, The Beer Lover’s Table: Seasonal Reci-
pes & Modern Beer Pairings by Claire Bullen with Jen Ferguson, which hits shelves in March 2019.
HOPBURNSBLACK.CO.UK.
With experience in the brewing
process of beer and cider alike, it
was an epiphany moment at Maine Mead Works on the East Coast of
America that inspired Tom Gosnell to set up in an industrial unit in
Peckham (dubbed the Honey Cup-
board). We find out more about this sweet and delicious liquid...
GOSNELLS
Can you tell us a bit
it's awesome to be
about Mead?
able to take the honey
Mead is any alcohol
that reflects all the
fermented from hon-
local floral and brew
ey, like cider is made
with it.
from apples or wine from grapes. What's
How much honey
really cool is that the
do you get through
flavour depends on
a year? Would you
what flowers the bees
like to have your own
have been eating -
hives at some point?
you get a huge range
We go through a lot
even from hives next
- last year I think we
to each other.
used over 10 tonnes! We'd love to have our
How did Gosnells
own hives - it's some-
begin?
thing we're looking at
I used to make cider
in 2019
each season down in Dorset with a friend, and over the course of about 10 years this taught me a huge amount about fermentation. Then, around five years ago I was in Maine and came across an amazing mead-maker - someone making mead with real love and care, nothing like all the weird castle gift shop stuff I'd had before. This really sparked a fire under me, and five years later here we are.
You’ve just released your first vintage mead,
made with 100% local raw London honey. Can you tell us more about this?
This has been a project I've wanted to get off
Peckham as your base?
I was bor n in Peckham before my parents moved further out of town, so I'd always been familiar with the area. When we were looking to set up we found an awesome space on Chadwick Road, so it was perfect.
Where in South East London can we find your products?
We're stocked in loads of great local bottle shops like Hop Bur ns and Black and Salthouse Bottles.
the ground for a while. It's made with 100% London honey and brewed stronger, to 12% -
Why did you pick
GOSNELLS.CO.UK
47
K A N PA I Can you tell us a
uniqueness and
At its core, sake
we got home, we
diversity. When
bit about sake?
started to brew it
is a drink made
out of curiosity.
from ferment-
Over the years
ing rice, with its
we shared it with
roots in
family and
Japan. Its spe-
friends who loved
cial ingredient is
it, so we con-
‘koji’ – a magic
tinued to make
mould spore
more, until the
that creates that
point we outgrew
unique umami
our London flat
taste. It’s the
and moved it into
same spore used
our first com-
to make miso
mercial premises
and soy sauce.
in February 2017
Sake is hugely
(in Print Village
diverse – rang-
Peckham), and
ing from dry and
are now upscal-
savoury, to fruity
ing in 2018 in
and delicate. It’s
Copeland Park,
super versatile:
Peckham. We
a perfect pairing
love hosting
to many foods,
events and
it also can be
getting our
mixed up into inventive cocktails. We like to think of it as being brewed more like a beer, but enjoyed more like a wine. But really, it’s a category all of its own! It’s also good to know it’s not overly strong, at typically 14-16% ABV - a good sipper chilled or warm.
energy from people enjoying sake.
You have a fresh approach to the process that’s
inspired by local craft breweries - can you tell us more about it?
We’ve spent many an after noon on the Bermond-
We never had the idea as such to launch a
craft beer pubs, so I think it was only natural
How did Kanpai begin? sake brewery - it's just a hobby that got out of control! It started on a trip to Japan years ago where we tasted delicious sake while soaking up the culture and food, and got hooked on its
sey Beer Mile and sipping the latest arrivals in that when we started brewing sake, we took inspiration from what was around us. Brewers have tor n up the rule books, introducing punchy notes, unexpected flavours and evolving recipes.
Sake might not be the first thing you think of when you me ntion of Peckham, but SE15-based Kanpai are quickly gaining fans. We find out more from founders Tom and Lucy.
This freedom and sense of adventure is exciting and something we want to bring into sake. While we have our core range, SUMI (clear and dry), KUMO (cloudy and fruity) and FIZU (sparkling and citrusy), we’ll always have experimental and seasonal batches bubbling away alongside. That’s what’s familiar to drinkers in the UK, and that’s how we hope to bring sake into their worlds.
You’re the UK’s first sake brewery. Why do you think no-one has done it before?
No one is mad enough! Seriously, brewing sake is tough. Really tough. We’ve been through a lot of trial and error as most sake textbooks are in Japanese. Tom attended brew school in Kyoto and since then we’ve visited up to 30 sake breweries – mainly in Japan but also across the US and Europe. There’s a common thread: you have to be mad passionate about sake! For one, growing koji is a unique science. And the other thing is the ingredients – the rice you use is very specific and we’ve had to build strong relationships with Japanese suppliers for it. On the other side of things, there isn’t a huge and obvious sake drinking market. So either we’re stupid - or just very hopeful that once people get the opportunity to try super fresh sake they’ll get as hooked as us!
Why did you pick Peckham as your base? We’ve lived in Peckham for eight years and have seen it evolve and flourish into this eclectic and exciting place. It’s full of start-ups giving all sorts a go – so an awesome community to be part of.
We’re also going to be expanding our tap room – bringing in guest inter national sakes, plus a range of Japanese whiskies, gins and other cocktails. Plus we’ll be launching supper clubs and other treats!
Where in South East London can we find your products?
Shops such as Hop Bur ns & Black (Peckham and Deptford), Bambuni (Nunhead), Wild & Lees (Her ne Hill) and The Beer Shop (Nunhead). Restaurants such as Louie Louie ((Walworth), The Coal Rooms, Mr Bao and John the Unicor n (Peckham). Bars such as The Hide (Bermondsey), Great Guns Social (Southwark), Batch (Peckham) and Two Spoons (Honor Oak Park). And of course the most super fresh stuff from our tap room and shop above our brewery in Copeland Park, Peckham.
What are you favourite places in South East London?
We’re spoilt for choice! If it’s a grab-and-go lunch when we’re working it has to be the Salas truck on Rye Lane or Asian Takeaway for their fluffy Naan Breads. For a cheeky BYO you can’t beat Yada’s. For special occasions it’s the taster menu at Platform 1 on Lordship Lane. And for a Sunday roast, they will never come finer than Coal Rooms (sorry Mum). Peckham Bazaar or Babur for when the parents come – it’s Indian done to the finest standard. And for beautiful cocktails made with care, take us to Batch Bar. We’re yet to get the chance to try out the new vermouth bar in Nunhead but looking forward to it! Can you tell we just love food and drink?
What are your plans for 2019? In 2019 we are focusing on brewing bigger and better batches, and making some unique sakes.
K A N PA I . L O N D O N
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G o o d & P r o p e r Te a f i r s t c a m e t o life at Brockley Market in 2012 in the form of a 1974 Citroën-H van affectionately named Wats o n . We f i n d o u t m o r e f r o m l o c a l Emilie about her passion for a good and proper cup of tea…
GOOD & PROPER Tell us a bit about Good & Proper Tea and how
started our online shop. Our first pop-up was at
I started the business in 2012 based on a very
one in Old Street station, then in 2014 we had a
you started…
selfish need - I didn’t drink coffee at all back then and I couldn’t understand why there was such a fantastic and increasingly exciting coffee scene and such a poor offering for us tea drinkers. I felt that we were very under-served and therefore I wanted to try and make that better. I started my jour ney into understanding exactly what that meant in terms of better tea and how to make better tea, but there was actually so much more to it then we really appreciate in the UK. I kickstarted for a van to get Good & Proper Tea going and was very lucky to have lots of other tea drinkers back the idea. Long story short, from there I grew the brand and
Tokyo Bike in Shoreditch followed by a another year-long kiosk, finally opening our flagship tea bar in Clerkenwell in 2015. The idea has always been to create a place to have great tea out and about.
How did you find the transition from van to bricks and mortar space with the Tea Bar on Leather Lane?
I’m always lear ning; I feel like this year I’ve lear nt the most since the beginning. I guess that’s what keeps it exciting, but it doesn’t seem to get any easier, you just lear n new and bigger and scarier things. The transition was massively helped by having these stepping stones of going
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
from van to pop-up to tea bar. Our location on Old Street was pocket sized and therefore perfect, as it wasn't dissimilar to the van, just warmer and the fridge stayed on and the battery didn’t need jump starting!
What are your plans going forward? I have a sixth month old baby. It seems there’s a very blurred line; I have people asking ‘are you back at work?’ but I feel like I don’t really know the answer, because it was never a clear cut, which is a great thing because its so flexible. But I am very much back in the loop, albeit certainly not sitting in the office five days a week, but I am back with the team psychologically. We have a really exciting year ahead growing our wholesale side. We love working with other cafes and coffee partners people are so good at their coffee now, and yet still only just waking up to the fact that they need to have good tea so it’s very exciting. When I first started the business, it would be normal that you would go into a cafe that would have unbelievably good coffee, and only offer Tetley’s tea bags. I have a fantastic team and everyone is so passionate, so it’s also really fun working with baristas and getting them excited about tea too. That’s our big focus, in the future there may be more tea bars so more people can experience a perfect cup of tea!
Where are your favourite places
in South East London in general and for a drink?
I still feel like I’m exploring it; I’m looking forward to trying the new Levan which has just opened in Peckham. Now that I need places to push a pram, I’ve discovered all sorts of lovely little cafes including Good Cup in Nunhead which is good place to go and hole up on a cold day. I’m desperate to go to Sparrow in Lewisham for a lovely meal. The Lido on a sunny day and a drinks at Peckham Levels are also fun. I think what’s so fun about being involved in the cafe scene, is that we get to know when things are opening - there’s some exciting openings coming up in Ladywell, which will be much appreciated.
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25/11/2018
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18:50
L ' O C U LT O W e c a u g h t u p w i t h Te r e s a f r o m l o c a l f a v o u r i t e L’ O c u l t o — t h e d e l i c o m e w i n e a n d t a p a s b a r — about Spanish wines and the upcoming opening o f a s e c o n d l a r g e r L’ O c u l t o . Have you always imported wine or is it some-
Spain is well known in the UK for its Rioja, Cava,
restaurant?
local indigenous varieties?
thing that you started to do once you'd setup the
Garnacha etc - do you have any wines from more
We actually started Flavours of Spain more
Many of our wines can’t be found anywhere else
than 12 years ago, importing small-batch wines
in the UK. We source very carefully and are al-
direct from producers in Spain. We later went
ways looking for something special, looking into
onto artisan, raw-milk cheeses and charcuterie.
producers that are recovering grape varieties
We were working in collaboration with one of
that for one reason or another have been lost
Spain’s Golden Nose-awarded sommeliers and
or abandoned. We enjoy introducing people to
some of the country’s most interesting and
other, less well known grape varieties and inter-
highly regarded wines, but nobody knew who
esting grape combinations such as Monastrell,
we were and they hadn’t heard of these wines
Cencibel, Graciano, Brancellao and Gran Negro.
either, so there was no point of reference. So we left the wine side of things and diverted our focus towards deli produce, specialising in artisan, raw milk Spanish cheeses. Over the next few
There is a big focus now on Organic, Natural and
Biodynamic wines - do you import any wines that
come under these umbrellas? What's your opinion
years our reputation grew, going from strength
on them?
to strength and when we went back into the wine
All our wines have an emphasis on either natu-
side of the business more seriously, around five
ral, organic or biodynamic. Wines that reflect
years ago, the response was incredible. This is
the terroir and also the changes throughout the
when things really changed for us. We started
years, reflecting weather conditions and changes
showcasing them at our stall at Brockley Market
to the soil. You just have to see one of those
and then when we opened L’Oculto on Loampit
wine elaborations under the microscope and see
Hill in 2010, the community took a big interest
the life in them, they’re 100% bigger than what
in us and what we were doing - which means we
you would see with a commercial wine.
can continue doing what we love and believe in, supporting smaller producers.
What are your favourite places in South East
Tell us a bit about your process of searching for
Our favourite places to drink are: for beers we
new wines...
London?
love Water Into Beer, Brockley and The Beer
We are always on the lookout. We read a lot, re-
Shop, Nunhead. For cocktails, Brickfields Bar,
search deeply and talk with other producers too,
Brockley, Bar Story, Peckham and also El Ver-
as well as sommeliers, independent restaurants
mut, Nunhead
in Spain, and chefs. Its very important to keep your mind open to new things and listen.
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TOGETHER WE FLOURISH
New world? Old world? Skin contact? These can sound confusing if you're not into wine, so we've put together a brief description of some terms...
Often referred to as 'orange wine' due to its orange colour, skin contact wine is made by keeping the skins of white grapes in contact with the juice while maceration / fermentation takes places. It gives an added richness to the wine, altering the resulting texture as well as the colour and flavour profile.
Wine made from grapes grown in accordance with organic farming principles. Legal definition varies country to country.
Wine made using the minimal intervention approach - in short, it's fermented grape juice with nothing added and nothing taken away (apart from, occasionally, small amounts of sulphur at bottling). Not a legal term and a hot topic within the wine industry.
Wines produced outside of the traditional wine-growing areas of Europe and the Middle East.
Wines produced inside the traditional wine-growing areas of Europe and the Middle East.Â
Wine produced without using any animal products, which are often used to fine and filter wine. These include isinglass (a substance obtained from swim bladders of fish) and albumen (egg white).
The process whereby two or more grape varieties are combined after separate fermentation.
The process by which sugar is transferred into alcohol — how juice from the grapes interacts with yeast to become wine.
57
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
THE LARDER'S Katherine from The Larder delicatessen in Ladywell has chosen her favourite bottles of w i n e f o r t h i s t i m e o f y e a r.
TABULA RASA #17V is a rule-breaking Tabula Rasa, every vintage is original. #V17R draws on fruit from historic vineyards across South Australia, with a blend of Grenache and Mataro.
CORVEZZO ROSATO FRIZZANTE is an organic, vegan semi-sparkling frizzante made from red Raboso grapes. Unusually it is fermented in the bottle and contains the lees which you are asked to shake in before you pour!
DOMAINE DES BROSSES SANCERRE is a classic fresh and citrussy Sancerre made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes and pairs wonderfully with fish.
RIOJA CRIANZA QUINTO ARRIO is both organic and vegan — having been carefully matured in wood it is the perfect choice for Christmas Day, as it works well with rich foods and mature cheeses.
NOTES It’s also worth checking out Under the Bonnet Wines and their shop and bar 161 Food + Drink in Sydenham. And if you fancy lear ning more about wine in a relaxed and friendly environment check out South London Wines School, which has an impressive array of classes.
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3 . o N R E T P A e H m C _ho
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INSIDE AN EAST DULWICH HOME
Interior designer Beth Dadswell lives with her
partner Andrew Wilbourne and their son Louis in
East Dulwich. We caught up with Beth to find out more about their home.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX REYTO
65
How long have you lived in your home?
We moved into the house almost two years ago
– before we had a kitchen or any cupboards, as
we were so desperate to get in! We designed and built the kitchen and storage around us, with the help of our lovely carpenter Gordon, who I have worked with for years.
What drew you to this area?
We had previously lived in West Dulwich, which was nice but very quiet, so found ourselves constantly coming to East Dulwich for the
cinema, shops and restaurants. It just made more sense to live here so that we have everything
on our doorstep and we absolutely love it. We
love North Cross Road market, the endless food options and the feeling of community here. Our neighbours were really welcoming, despite the fact that we spent nine months digging and drilling through concrete!
Your house was a restoration / build project. Have you done a project of this scale before?
We had worked on several flat and house renovations before, but none had been on this scale. Because we used a builder that I had worked with on client projects, and we were able to
restore the existing skeleton of the building and just add a single-story extension, it didn’t feel
overwhelming. The biggest headache was trying to understand the legal requirements and plan-
ning processes that you have to follow when you
self-build. I still don’t understand why these have to be so difficult to navigate, and if the
government are trying to encourage self-builders, why they don’t put together a step by step package to make it easier for people? The paperwork required is endless…
What condition was the house in when you took it on?
The building had been used as a double-glazing
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
workshop before we bought it, so we inherited
several seven metre long ladders, endless blown
double glazing units, a collapsing roof that had a tree was growing on... and an oblivious
family of foxes that weren’t bothered by any of
it! Prior to that, it had been used as an ice cream
storage unit, so before we could see the extent of the damp and the condition of the brickwork, we had to strip out skip loads of cork that had been attached to all of the walls and ceilings to keep it cold. It was freezing, had no natural light and
a dangerous leaking roof, so it wasn’t surprising that the developers had all wanted to flatten it
and start again. However, we fell in love with the
atmosphere and were determined to bring it back to life as it was, without impacting too much on our neighbours and their light or views.
Your building process was fea-
tured on Channel 4’s Grand De-
signs, how was that and how do
you think it affected the project? I approached Grand Designs
just before we started work, as I thought that it would be nice to have a ‘diary’ of the build
process to look back at. I’m sure anyone that works in TV knows
how much filming is required to
produce an hour-long show, but
we naively didn’t! In some ways, it was a good motivator for the
builders and tradesmen as they were keen to finish on time and look good on film, but the
filming did take up a lot of time. Our build budget was modest,
but so was our brief, so I hope
that it proved that you can come in on budget and on time if you have a great team of people
working with you and you are
very organised. You have to be
creative with your spending and ideas, and be realistic about
what you can afford to do. So
often, people dig basements that they don’t actually need, or build huge houses just to show off…
Whitman Wilde. ARCHITECTS
info@whitmanwilde.com
020 3488 4066
www.whitmanwilde.com
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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
All of the rooms work together in a calming and
aesthetically cohesive way, were you conscious to design the house in its entirety from the outset? Yes – we don’t have a loft and the house isn’t
huge, but we wanted it to feel quite open – so
I was conscious that we would need to design in lots of storage. I decided to keep a uniform
look to all of the joinery, so that you don't notice it. The design of the kitchen, which the carpenter made from custom tongue and groove door
fronts, was continued into the living room where
our books are stored. I also designed a coat and bag storage cupboard with a built-in bench and
to sell, so we invested in a few things that made it feel special and that we wouldn’t need to
replace, like the hand-made Zellige tiles, the
brass taps, the steel windows and the use of Belgian limestone. For me, the pleasure is in
the details and how things feel, as these create an atmosphere. As we were working to a small budget, we spent a lot of time online, hunting
down the right square black metal gutter, black
shower fittings, plugs and sinks. Fortunately the builders were patient when tasked with fitting non-standard things like chemistry lab sinks!
display on the other side, and this visually sepa-
How have you balanced the beautiful aesthetics
Bedside tables, bathrooms, the wardrobes and
Having renovated and lived in several proper-
rates the entrance from the front door.
my office all got the same treatment, using the
same limited palette of materials for consistency. This means that the rooms flow into one another
quite seamlessly and make the house feel bigger. How do you think your work as an interior de-
signer affected your approach to designing your own home?
I was really excited to be able to start from
scratch on this house, and to have a small budget to buy the things that we had never been able to afford in previous houses. We knew that this
was not going to be a house that we would want
with the practicalities of family life?
ties in the past, we had always been very careful to look after them as we knew that they would be sold in the near future. This wasn't easy
with a small child when he and his friends were rampaging around the house in muddy shoes,
so we were determined to make this house low maintenance. The micro cement floor has been very practical, as have the oak parquet floors
upstairs, although I did succumb to Belgian limestone worktops everywhere which are beautiful, but aren’t particularly hard wearing! The sealed plaster was a big risk and we weren’t sure how practical that would be, but it created such a
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What is your favourite part of the house?
The view from the dining table through the living
room and out onto the courtyard is great at night, as we have lots of lights out there which give it
quite a dramatic atmosphere. The local cats use the metal girders as a climbing frame, and we
have a family of nesting blackbirds and a couple of resident frogs that appear occasionally, so it can feel a bit like a theatre set at times! Would you do a build project again?
I found this build less stressful than previous
ones as we weren’t living in it while the work was happening, but the paperwork required is really off-putting. Let’s see…!
Favourite places in South East London for a coffee or a tipple?
We love Kanella & Co for coffee, and Franklins is great for a cosy drink in the winter. We feel pretty spoilt here and still haven’t tried all the restaurants or bars out yet – two more have opened up this week!
What are your favourite South East London haunts?
I love the meze at The Real Greek in Dulwich Vil-
lage, Louis loves the fishcakes at the Thai Corner Cafe and Andrew is partial to a pizza at Franco Manca, so we spend most of our time eating!
Myla & Davis in East Dulwich is brilliant for a haircut, Forest & Pearspring have amazing plants and pots for the house, and we also spend quite a lot of time at the Picturehouse. The only thing that I
think is missing around here is a really great inte-
riors shop – somewhere that sells unique one-off, vintage and hand-made pieces that you don’t
see sold in every other shop. Sadly the rents are
really expensive, but hopefully someone else will be able to do it soon…
IMPERFECTINTERIORS.CO.UK
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
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_ W H A T ’ S
CHIT T Y CHIT T Y BANG BANG SING-ALONG 16 D E C E M B E R
A HORRIBLE CHRISTMAS 15 – 16 D E C E M B E R
BIG FAMILY PRESS 5 JANUARY AND 2 FEBRUARY
A down-on-his-luck inventor (Van Dyke) turns a broken-down Grand Prix car into a fancy vehicle for his children, and then they go off on a magical fantasy adventure to save their grandfather in a far-off land. A family friendly festive Sing-A-Long at the brand new Everyman Cinema in Crystal Palace.
Have yourself a horrible little Christmas at Dulwich Picture Gallery this year! Join Horrible Histories for an interactive workshop, exploring how Christmas was celebrated in the time of the Tudors, Victorian era, and the Dark Ages. Be prepared to act out different scenes, sing silly songs, and have a horrible time!
Creative drop-in sessions will take place on the first Saturday of the month. Children aged 5–12 and their families are invited to learn how to riso print, share their stories and make a DIY publication for the archive using a range of exciting materials sourced from the local area.
EVERYMAN, CRYSTAL PALACE, SE19
DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY, SE21
80
SOUTH LONDON GALLERY, SE15
SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL
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ICARUS 2 6 J A N - 10 M A R C H
WE’RE GOING ON A BEAR HUNT 18 F E B R U A R Y
PLAY TUESDAYS T U E S D AY S
Where the water ends and the sky begins, that’s where i’ll fly — a bold, contemporary and playful take on the ancient myth.
Go on an intrepid adventure at a screening of the animated film adaptation of children’s book We’re Going on a Bear Hunt, accompanied by a live orchestra.
Younger children are invited to a different adventure every Tuesday during term time at the National Maritime Museum. Head to the museum to take part in seaworthy tailored activities, song, dance and stories! NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, SE10
UNICORN THEATRE, SE1
ROYAL FESTIVAL HALL, SE1
81
AIM HIGHER The All-New Blackheath High School has been shortlisted for Best Independent Girls’ School 2018
www.blackheathhighschool.gdst.net
@SELONDONJOURNAL