Issue
2
2018
Southern
SOIL a grrowing fooood movem meennt
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Southern SOIL
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Contents
a growing food movement
04
08
16
EDITORIAL
FARM TO PUB
GREEN BRIDGE FARM
PAGE 04 \ EXPERIENCING A DAY OF BUTCHERING
PAGE 08 \ SERVING UP EXCEPTIONAL FOOD FOR THE AVERAGE JOE
PAGE 16\ WHERE MODERN HOUSING DEVELOPMENT MEETS HIPPY COMMUNE
20
26
34
NATIVE PLANTING
WITH FOOD IN MIND
PAGE 20 \ LIVENING UP LANDSCAPES WITH NATIVE PLANTS
PAGE 30 \ JOVAN SAGE WITH FOOD IN MIND
SOME KINDA GOOD IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD
12......TABLE TALK 14......THE BOOKWORM
3
PAGE 34 \ COOKING LOCAL WITH REBEKAH FAULK LINGENFELSER
28......PHOTO ESSAY 37......BUSINESS INDEX
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
Southern SOIL
Editorial
humanely and allowed to live their days as naturally
One of the things I love about writing is the doors
social structure, and access to fresh air, the earth
it opens. I get to meet interesting people and share
and sunshine.
their stories. I’m able to experience things that I might otherwise miss out on.
4
as possible. That includes space to move, the opportunity to exist and interact within their natural
Even just reading about the conditions that are considered “normal” for animals raised in what has
I had the opportunity in April to spend some time
become conventional farming is enough to leave
at Comfort Farms and be a part of a community
me broken-hearted. They deserve better and so do
experience that was truly exceptional.
we.
I didn’t grow up on a farm and I’m not a hunter. In
Factory farming does more than cause harm to
fact, I’m an animal lover who has had some internal
animals, it harms the environment, it’s detrimental
struggles with my carnivorous appetite. It was my
to those who work in those conditions, and
concern for animal welfare and the realization of
ultimately, it harms the health of those who eat the
the horrors most animals raised for food purposes
final product. While this is certainly my opinion,
are put through that initially set me on the path to
there is also a lot of research out there to back up
sustainable and local foods.
each claim.
I strongly believe that animals, even those that
At Comfort Farms, I had the opportunity to get a
are being raised for slaughter, should be treated
glimpse at how this process can be done in a much
a growing food movement
different way. A way that honors the life of the
work so hard to provide it and has also reinforced
animal.
my commitment to mindful food choices,
As someone who had never witnessed a slaughter
especially when it comes to meat.
before, I was a bit apprehensive about the whole
As consumers, we can choose to turn a blind eye
experience. And although it was not easy to do,
to parts of the “circle of life” that we find least
I felt a sense of responsibility to at least witness
appealing, but perhaps we owe it to ourselves,
the process that is necessary to make it possible
the animals we eat, and the people who make
for me to eat meat. For me, stepping out of my
our meat eating possible to take a peek into that
comfort zone in this situation has helped to make
process from time to time and truly appreciate the
me more appreciative of my food and those who
sacrifices that are made. I hope you will take a few minutes to look at the Photo Essay and read the words of Bryan Kyzar in this issue of Southern Soil. While some of the pictures are not pretty to look at, I believe you’ll get a glimpse of how beautiful and meaningful the experience truly was for those involved.
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
5
Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
FOL L OW US www.southernsoil.org
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C ONTAC T US For general inquiries, write to info@southernsoil.org
S UBM I S S I ONS If you’d like to contribute, email us at editor@southernsoil.org
S P ONS ORS To enquire about advertising or sponsorships, get in touch at info@southernsoil.org.
Noted photos are courtesy of Karolyn O’Cull of Ordinarily Perfect, lifestyle and documentary photographer.
way green LOCAL FARE MARKET
a growing food movement
“Local, Home Grown, Hand Made”
1st Saturday May — Nov 9am — 12noon Okefenokee Heritage Center 1460 N Augusta Ave – Waycross, GA www.waygreen.wix.com/waygreen
OVER 25 VENDORS OFFERING LOCAL PRODUCTS
Marketing made possible by
More than a Farmers’ Market ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
7
Southern SOIL
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Photo credit: Paprika Southern Studios
08
a growing food movement
Farm to Pub:
serving up exceptional food for the average Joe In a world of chain restaurants, fast food, “branding”
a farm-to-table menu were located in more tour-
and other forms of institutionalized same-ness, The
ist-centric areas and geared toward a much higher
Green Truck Pub in Savannah strikes a chord with
price point.
customers through its authenticity and commitment to producing a quality product.
“One of the big ideas, the biggest idea that we’re trying to do with this, was actually … make it accessi-
Balancing core values, price points and profits;
ble. And there are a lot of people that had probably
owner Josh Yates seems to have found the fine
... never even been exposed to the idea of farm-
line between success and failure that exists in the
to-table or ever eaten that, so we really wanted to
restaurant business.
bring it to the masses,” Josh explained. “I’m actually really proud of that, that we were able to introduce
“On paper, it doesn’t make any sense at all because
that at this price point.”
our food costs are very high,” Josh admits. “Fortunately, we’ve been popular enough, we stay busy
The average customer at The Green Truck Pub
enough, that the volume sort of makes it worth-
might not even realize that they are eating grass-
while … on the one hand I never wanted to go out of
fed beef from a local rancher and fresh-picked
business and I was very careful with my money. But
produce from a farmer down the road. What they
on the other hand, at some point, you have to say it’s not about the bottom line, it’s about delivering
(con tinued on page 10)
products at a decent price for people.” Bringing a farm-to-table experience to Savannah locals while maintaining an affordable menu and a hip atmosphere is not an easy feat. But based on long lines, great reviews and plenty of return customers to this neighborhood joint, the crew at Green Truck Pub seems to be achieving just that. Though the local, sustainable food movement is now growing in popularity, when Josh first opened the Pub eight years ago, Savannah was just at the beginning stages of developing a market for farmfresh foods. Those few restaurants that did feature
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 9)
appreciate is great tasting food that is unpreten-
no idea we’re buying local beef and they still enjoy
tious and genuinely good. Made and served with
the experience and enjoy the burger. Nobody’s in
true attention to quality.
here beating them over their heads with our food philosophy and I think that’s important too. It’s kind
“We’ve never been preachy about it, there’s prob-
of part of the idea of welcoming everybody.”
ably a lot of people that come in here that have
10
Josh & Whitney Yates Photo credit: Paprika Southern Studios
a growing food movement
Josh may not get up on a soap box, but he definite-
products and services locally whenever possible.
ly sets an example for others to follow. Not only does the Green Truck Pub source much of its pro-
Craft beers from Georgia are always on tap, the
duce and all off its grass-fed beef locally (the beef
booths were built by local carpenters and menus
comes exclusively from Hunter Cattle Company in
and t-shirts are printed from local companies as
Brooklet), but they also endeavor to source other
well. The Pub is definitely a neighborhood joint, off the beaten track of the regular tourist hot spots. But more than that, the Pub is also a good neighbor, supporting charities with fundraisers and participating in the local community. “We believe that when the community has been so great about supporting us, we like to give back to the community and I think that’s important,” Josh said. Josh credits his wife Whitney in large part for influencing his food journey. A long-time vegetarian she helped him become more mindful about food choices and how he shopped. Her influence is also evident on the Pub’s menu which boasts an impressive array of vegetarian options, especially for a respectable burger restaurant. Josh, whose first career was in engineering, seems to have no regrets about being laid off from a corporate job that he hadn’t really enjoyed. He has embraced the opportunity to create something truly unique. “One of the cool things about being your own boss and opening your own business is that you get to put a lot of your values into it,” Josh explained. “… eating farm-to-table, supporting local farmers, small farmers, supporting local craftsmen, supporting craft beer ... That’s one of the great things about opening your own ... small business, you get to do what you want to do and it can be a reflection of your own personality.”
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL
Table Talk
need within the community to share information and connect with others who were also moving away from conventional foods and exploring other options. Connie founded the Waygreen Homestead Guild as a means of bringing like-minded people together and she has taken a leadership role in growing the local food movement in her community. The following is her perspective on a series of questions regarding the sustainable, local food system in Southeast Georgia. What does the current food system look like here
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in Southeast Georgia? ACH ISSUE OF SOUTHERN SOIL WILL FEATURE A CONVERSATION WITH IN-
For the most part, our current food system looks a
DIVIDUALS REPRESENTING DIFFERENT
lot like it has for the past 25 years or so. Most of
PERSPECTIVES ALONG THE FOOD SUPPLY
the foods that people consume are produced hun-
LINE. THIS ISSUE FEATURES CONNIE OLIVER,
dreds or even thousands of miles away, processed
A COMMUNITY EDUCATOR, LOCAL GARDENER,
so that it will be stable for a long transport and an
SPEAKER AND ORGANIZER IN HER HOMETOWN
even longer shelf life. People continue to purchase
OF WAYCROSS GEORGIA.
what is made available with convenience, cost and what “tastes good” overriding nutritional value and
Connie enjoys sharing her passion for growing
health benefits or the lack thereof to those who
good local food as well as supporting and encour-
consume them.
aging others to do the same. She is the founder of WayGreen, Co Chair of Slow Food South Georgia,
Over the past five years, however, we have been
a member of Georgia Organics, Georgia Farmers
seeing small changes occur in our local food
Market Association, Georgia Grown and serves as a
system through the efforts of a growing number of
curator for The Lexicon Of Sustainability.
local growers, farmers, producers and community volunteers.
Connie’s personal journey toward sustainable food began as a means of addressing health concerns
What do you think a locally sourced, sustainable
for herself and her family. As she started changing
food system should look like here in Southeast
her eating and shopping habits, people she had
Georgia?
known for years and even perfect strangers started asking questions.
I think it would involve more people growing their own food using sustainable practices, teaching oth-
Conversations in the grocery aisle highlighted a
ers to do the same and making their products avail-
a growing food movement
able to as many people as possible. Grow, teach,
After seeing the success of offering the once
repeat. In turn those people not able to grow food
monthly markets, the group began to search for
would support those who are providing healthy
more opportunities to get local products into the
nutritious foods by every means possible as well as
hands of local people. An online local fare co-op
look for ways to reduce food waste.
seemed to be the solution. This made local products available every two weeks by simply order-
I think it would look much like the model that we
ing online. The farmer/producers provide what
have put in place here in Waycross, through the ef-
product(s) is available, we place the items online,
forts of our WayGreen group. One of the first things
consumers order and pick their items up locally at a
that we worked on when we organized was to find
certain time and location.
those people within a one-hundred-mile radius of us that were growing food, striving to be self-reli-
We also believe another key component is edu-
ant and sustainable. We believe in the importance
cation. For the past two years we have offered a
of eating as close to home as possible. We found
“Homestead Conference” where classes in how to
about three people who were growing food consis-
raise backyard chickens, vermiculture, gardening,
tently and they were looking for ways to sell their
bread making, permaculture, cheese making, and
products.
other skills were taught. A recent raised bed gardening class was a sellout confirming that we have
These were people who had full time jobs but were
folks who are eager to learn these skills. Classes
finding time to grow more food than they and their
continue to be offered monthly on different sub-
families could consume. We knew that we needed
jects.
13
a venue to get these products into the hands of the people of our area, so we came up with a once monthly “WayGreen Local Fare Market”. We knew
We call ourselves a ‘tribe” and really, I think that is (con tinued on page 24)
most folks wouldn’t come out for a three-farmer farmer’s market, so we invited others to join us. The market was, and continues to be, a venue where local people who create a local product can sell their “fare” and where the community can support their efforts while purchasing a superior product. The market currently offers over 30 vendors selling all sorts of local handmade homegrown items such as bread, eggs, honey, cheese, meat, microgreens, jams, jellies, soaps, grits, olive oil, macarons, plants, and so much more. We have seen this market really offer a sense of place for those who attend and is a true community effort.
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
Th
Southern SOIL
orm w k oo B e
reading the best and weeding the rest
A
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REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF STREET FARM: GROWING FOOD, JOBS, AND HOPE ON THE URBAN FRONTIER BY MICHAEL ABLEMAN
Billed as a how-to, Michael Ableman’s book is more inspirational than instructional. But the examples of agriculture’s ability to do far more than merely provide sustenance abound in this non-fiction depiction of Ableman’s urban farms in Vancouver, British Columbia. The urban farms scattered throughout downtown Vancouver are collectively called Sole Food and not only serve to provide a source of fresh produce to the City but also provide jobs for the local residents, many of whom would be unemployable elsewhere due to their drug addiction, lack of marketable skills and/or mental and psychological issues. Ableman does a fantastic, if somewhat disjointed, job of weaving together the stories of unique individuals, agricultural endeavors, administrative
pitfalls and social and economic successes and failures that define his urban agricultural experiment. His storytelling is vivid and embraces a corseness that is reflective of the hard and downtrodden environment in which his farms exist; surrounded by concrete, traffic, rampant drug use, homelessness and industrial debris. His book takes readers through his journey as he endeavored to begin a project that was virtually unheard of here in North America: bringing full-scale farming into an urban landscape and making it
viable. He holds no punches, sharing the good, the bad and the ugly. Though a far cry from a howto manual on starting up an urban agricultural program, this book would definitely be a great starting resource for community leaders, non-profit managers, farmers, social workers, or others who are looking to implement an urban agricultural program. It would also be inspirational for those who use agriculture as a platform for social programs like drug and alcohol rehabilitation. It readily addresses the intersection of food production and emotional and social restoration.
Slow Food South Georgia
a growing food movement
Good, Clean & Fair Food For All
June 2nd Tim Armstrong from Eat Your Yard Jax Growing Mushrooms 2:00-3:00 PM $35 June 8th Growing Microgreens 6:00-7:00 pm
June 19th Kids Plant a Seed Event 11:00am June 26th Making Sourdough 6:30 pm
Come Join Us! Tickets are available through our store https://squareup.com/store/slow-food-south-georgia
All classes will be held at Free Bird Cafe and Market, 301 Carswell Ave, Waycross, GA 31501 Visit us on Facebook and Instagram @slowfoodsouthgeorgia or email us at info@slowfoodsouthgeorgia.org.
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Southern, Coastal Recipes & Restaurant Reviews with a Local, Seasonal Focus Food Enthusiast and Georgia native Rebekah Lingenfelser is the creative force behind the blog, SomeKindaGood.com. Connect with Some Kinda Good on social media and tune in to Food Network to watch her compete on Season 14 of Food Network Star, June 10 at 9 p.m. Click to learn more. ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL
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Photo credit: Karolyn O’Cull of Ordinarily Perfect
a growing food movement
Green Bridge Farm:
modern housing development meets hippy commune Imagine a neighborhood where the surrounding
his subdivision, Green Bridge Farm, an intentional
woodlands are largely left undisturbed, wildlife
community aimed at sustainable living. Maddox,
abounds and peace and quiet is the norm. Picture a
a self-declared former hippy, envisioned a space
community where each house has its own person-
where he and a few of his friends could build their
ality, neighbors come together to plant, pull weeds
homes and share a garden, creating a smaller
and harvest from a common garden, and kids can
carbon footprint as a community than any of them
run around with free-range chickens and pick fresh
could achieve on their own.
fruit from the orchard. The timing for the venture was unfortunate, coinIs this what comes to mind when you think of a
ciding with the economic downturn and housing
housing development? Probably not. Most of us
crisis of 2009. When his friends got spooked and
would think of row upon row of large, cookie-cut-
backed out, Maddox had to make a new plan. It’s
ter houses with immaculate grass lawns without
nearly ten years later, but Maddox’s vision of a
a blade out of place and HOA rules that demand
multi-family community is becoming a reality.
conformity to conventional aesthetics. Drawing on his experience as a landscape designer, But Michael Maddox had something radically
Maddox laid out the acreage to resemble the old
different in mind when he set about developing
homestead models. The site includes private and
Photo credit: Karolyn O’Cull of Ordinarily Perfect
(con tinued on page 18)
Michael Maddox ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 1 7)
community spaces comprised of two large gardens, a fruit orchard, pecan trees and a pond with surrounding wooded land. Privacy for the individual homes is protected by the trees and natural landscape left in place. Homeowners are encouraged to make the most energy-efficient choices possible within their own budgets, and each house is decidedly unique. Maddox designed and built his own 1,200 square foot wood home with high ceilings and a small footprint. The site also includes a log cabin, a prefab iHome and a hot pink and purple tiny house that was featured on HGTV®. Clearly, conformity is not the guiding principle here. “I was never striving for total self-sufficiency. I find that a lot of people kind of become victims of these concepts … it becomes important for people 18
to have a label and then they conform to the label rather than allowing things outside the lines.” “The design was a homestead for a large family and the idea that we would be as self-reliant as
Photo credit: Karolyn O’Cull of Ordinarily Perfect
practical, not necessarily as possible. Because I’m not going to grow olive trees so I can have olive oil or raise dairy cows so I can have butter. I don’t mind buying those things.” But perhaps the key element to the neighborhood is the farm component of Green Bridge Farm. Though Maddox is currently the only farmer in residence, several of the families that are in the process of
a growing food movement
after the recession, but I’ve managed to hold on and it’s turned out pretty good … I’ve always been kind of a mover and a shaker and lead by example. I’d like to see other people try to do things like this. Maybe not on this scale, maybe three families together or five. Or maybe even a hundred.” “But it was real important that I try to pull this off,” Maddox said, “because I wanted other people to do it too. And it’s changing all the time. Like I tell people, farm is a verb not a noun. The end result could be something I haven’t foreseen, who knows. So, I’m along for the ride too.” Photo credit: Karolyn O’Cull of Ordinarily Perfect building their homes have expressed a desire to help with the work and share in the bounty. “Right now, I’m basically the only one who works on the farm. The people who are moving in … there’s two young couples and their young children … they’ve all expressed an interest in working.The two younger couples plan to help and get their kids involved. I think maybe this time next year when all the houses are built and people have moved in, it could be that all the food stays here on the farm
Small batch
craft distillery making
moonshine
in a 200 gallon copper still, using locally grown grains.
and just feeds the residents, which is what I intended,” Maddox explained. Maddox admits the project has been more experiment than grand design, but he hopes the final outcome will provide an example that others can replicate. “This is my push back, this is my radical offering to America. Something a little bit different, but very much like what used to be. Kind of a throw-
Silver medal winner at the San Diego Wine and Spirit Festival 2017. Free Samples.
back to another era but with modern amenities.” “I feel like I’ve pulled it off. It was pretty tough there
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Southern SOIL
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Blanket Flower
a growing food movement
Livening Up Landscapes with Native Plants Southern Native Plantings at Longwood Plantation is a unique nursery located near Newington in Screven County. Husband and wife Mike and Karen Smith own and operate the composting business on Longwood Plantation and the nursery Southern Native Plantings on land that was handed down through Mike’s family. The composting business came first, a progression from a peat mining operation to a sustainable and organic wholesale composting business. The nursery was originally started as a testing site for the compost and potting material, but has since come into its own as an organic nursery, fruit tree supplier, and an excellent source of native plants. The nursery is Karen’s domain and she has a passion for Georgia’s local vegetation. She was first introduced to native plants by Mike’s aunt who was always on the lookout for plants in the wild that could be propagated. Karen carries on that tradition and Southern Native Plantings is now a great place to find some of our local plants that aren’t generally carried by the national chains. There are some great advantages to including native plants in your yard or garden that go beyond merely ensuring that these local gems survive. Native plants require less inputs than their exotic (con tinued on page 2 2)
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 2 1)
cousins. Having evolved in this environment, they
As hosts, natives play an integral role in the lives of
need to be watered less, require less fertilizer and
local insects and birds. “Native plants have evolved
soil amendments; and as hosts to local insects
alongside of insects over the years. So, you have
should not be subjected to pesticides.
some insects that can only raise their young on these native plants. For instance, the catawba moth can only lay its eggs on the catawba tree, that’s the only thing the lepidoptera can eat. So, to get catawba moths, you’ve got to have a catawba tree,” Karen explained. “A lot of people think that birds love berries, but birds need protein and a major part of their diet is insects, not berries … if you want birds, you need to have native plants.”
Karen Smith
Some of Karen’s favorite native plants include the Spicebush (host plant for the Spicebush Swallow-
22
Native plants are subject to insect damage, but as
tail Butterfly), Chokeberry, Milkweed (host plant for
Karen explains, that’s not really a bad thing! “Doug
the Monarch Butterfly), Bee Balms Goldenrod, Indi-
Tallamy (author of Bringing Nature Home) says, ‘if a
an Pink, Blanketflower, and Pawpaws (host plant
plant has fed nothing, it has done nothing’, so that’s
for the Zebra Longwing Butterfly).
what plants were intended to do - to feed wildlife, to feed insects, to feed all those kind of things.”
Boneset is another of Karen’s favorites that works
Echinacea & Elderberry
a growing food movement
Indian Pink great as a companion plant close to tomatoes.
wildlife. They take less input once established.”
“Another of my favorites is called boneset and it attracts braconid wasps which are non-stinging
Native plants cover the gamut from ornamentals to
wasps … they’re parasitic wasps that lay their eggs
fruit-bearing; flowers, shrubs and trees; sun-loving
in the tomato hornworms and eat them from the
and those that prefer shade. Adding some native
inside.”
plants to your yard and garden is a great way to help support the local ecological system and pro-
“The whole goal of native plants is that it’s what
vide valuable food and habitat for wildlife. Whatever
grows in the area, it grows best for the climate,
your landscape or gardening needs, you’ll likely find
they’re usually less water-intensive, they support
a native plant that can meet it. 23
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 13)
what a locally sourced, sustainable food system
items. We continue to make people aware of the
looks like with the common culture being good
cost to produce this local food and help them ap-
food to sustain us!
preciate those who make it available through face recognition (know your farmer).
What changes need to occur to make that transition?
How do we grow the sustainable food movement here in our communities?
I think the changes that need to occur to make this transition is what we have been attempting to do
Gather together. Use social networking sites to
here in Ware County. We first continue to reach out
make your mission and purposes known. If you
to all and any who are attempting this way of life
know of one or two people who are concerned over
and support them in their efforts. By connecting to
the current food system, meet together often and
each other we grow stronger and the load becomes
look for others and ways to reach others.
lighter for each of us. Gaining more knowledge and educating others is We need to continue to encourage all people who
vital. We continue to offer events where people can
are growing food by buying their products and to
learn the differences in the current food system and
grow our own food whenever possible, becoming
a more sustainable one. Offering chances to learn
more self-reliant.
the differences will allow people to make intelligent decisions for themselves.
24
I also think that one of the greatest things we can do is become community educators and offer ways
For us, here in Ware County, we look for more ways
to transition people from the current local food
to broaden our reach. We offer events such as
system to a more sustainable one. This will require
Farm To Fork where people can taste and expe-
ongoing educational opportunities to inform the
rience locally sourced foods cooked in new and
public of the health and nutritional benefits that
different ways. We have participated in Farm To
such a transition can bring about.
School, summer camps, and school gardens.
How do we make a sustainable, local food system
We look for ways to partner with other like-minded
that is profitable for producers while keeping it
organizations and people groups to make a dif-
accessible to consumers?
ference such as our local Children’s Initiative and Gleaning Network. We join organizations like Geor-
Working closely with those who are already con-
gia Organics, Georgia Farmers Market Association,
tributing to the sustainable local food system is
Georgia Grown and have recently been awarded,
crucial. So many times, we just “try� things when
a Slow Food Movement Chapter, which we have
we really need to ask what we can do and look to
named Slow Food South Georgia which has an
implement those suggestions. We just continue to
international reach.
look for ways to offer our producers opportunities to sell and the public to come and purchase those
Yay! No “Pay to Play” Here!
a growing food movement
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Here at Southern Soil, we don’t engage in the “pay to play” method of choosing content. In other words, we will NEVER require you to pay a fee or purchase advertising in order to be featured in this magazine. Our content decisions are driven by our shared values of sustainably produced foods: ethically and humanely raised animals, responsible use of natural resources and conscientious choices for the health of the animals, the planet and the humans too. We strive to provide content that will engage, entertain and educate our readers. We are not here to promote only those who can afford advertising, we’re here to support a community and regional movement - a growing food movement in Southeast Georgia. So, as we like to say, “pull up a chair and join the conversation!” We appreciate our advertisers and rely on that revenue to keep this conversation going. And we certainly invite you to be a part of our advertising family and help us continue to share great stories of local people doing their part to improve our local food system. But we will never deny you a seat at this table for choosing not to advertise!
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
Southern SOIL
26
Jovan Sage:
with Food in Mind
J
OVAN SAGE BRINGS HER EXPERIENCE AND PASSION FOR A MINDFUL CONNECTION TO FOOD TO READERS IN EVERY ISSUE. AN HERBALIST AND WELLNESS COACH, JOVAN HAS HER OWN LINE OF TEAS, BITTERS, KOMBUCHA AND MORE AVAILABLE THROUGH SAGE’S
LARDER. SHE IS ALSO THE CO-OWNER AND RESIDENT FOOD ALCHEMIST OF THE FARMER AND THE LARDER IN BRUNSWICK.
Perfect: The Enemy of Good
This is usually the highlight reel of someone’s day and the totality of someone’s life is often so different. For many people - myself included - those photos are often ways for us to encourage our-
26
Knowing what I know now, I would have been
selves to eat better, to go on that hike, to really em-
kinder to and more patient with myself on my food
body the health and wellness goals that we have
journey. Comparisons at the gym, one-size fits
for ourselves. Or on the flip side the pleasurable
all nutrition, and a lack of understanding that if it
experiences like a big bowl of poutine on a trip to
wasn’t created in a day it won’t go away in a day
Canada, a glass of champagne and a chocolate
dogged my health and wellness goals. As an herb-
croissant at the top of the Eiffel Tower, a celebra-
alist and wellness coach, I get many of the same
tory slice of a New York cheesecake. Not the most
comments: “I know I don’t eat well; it’s so hard to
healthy things that you would enjoy daily but could
eat better.” “I’m really trying to eat more veggies,
hit that sweet spot of comfort and pleasure.
I know it’s better for me.” “You must eat good all the time - I’m not sure I could do that!” “I just don’t
Everyone is on their own journey with food, creat-
have the discipline to eat healthy.”These are often
ing a relationship that goes beyond what the latest
said with a hint of shame, creating this energy of
studies or nutritionists say. It all starts with clarity
tongue in cheek self-abasement. Shame is rarely a
around how you want to feel and what your goals
good long-term motivator in any situation.
are regarding food. Are your goals to eat more veggies, to eat less meat or to eat better meat? Is your
If you were to look at my Instagram or that of
goal to not overeat or do you want to eat more? If
other health coaches, wellness experts or foodies,
your goal to eat more fresh raw veggies from your
you are only getting snapshots of someone’s life.
garden or eat heaping spoonfuls of fermented
These are mere vignettes of how they exercise,
veggies with every meal?
what they eat or drink, and how they live their lives.
a growing food movement
Know that your goal is going to be different from
son and perfection is your goal you have already
her goal, which is different from their goal, which
lost (and hopefully you don’t stay lost). There are
is different from his goal. That’s the beauty of food
so many opportunities to do better, each day an
and creating opportunities to eat better, whatever
opportunity to choose differently, to get out of
better looks like for us as individuals.
comparison and to be kinder to ourselves in the process. Also, to always find ways to enjoy the
I believe our relationship to food shouldn’t be one
food that we eat.
of deprivation perfection. If constant compari-
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Photo Essay: Animal to Meat, a Tribute
28
In April, Jon Jackson and Comfort Farms held
celebration of life and the sacrifices it requires.
an event that brought together a community of individuals to experience two days on the farm with
The following pages include my photographs from
demonstrations of humane slaughter, proper butch-
the event which I hope will not only convey the
ering techniques, good cooking, camaraderie and a
blood that is necessarily shed, but also the spirit of
a growing food movement
community and respect for life that was so much a
of his life. While all of this was going on a gentle
part of this event. You will also have the opportunity
voice softened the air with Amazing Grace. It took
to read Jon’s own recollections from the experience
12 men and a Woman (my beautiful wife) to pick
as well as the opening remarks and the butcher’s
Bubba up and march him, being led by bagpipes to
prayer offered by Bryan Kyzar.
the butchering table. There we gathered together, veterans, chefs, butchers, farmers and the com-
At one point during the weekend when Bubba the
munity to prepare Comfort Farms’ best hog for a
hog was on the butcher’s table, it struck me that
feast to welcome our spring.
people had come together from all walks of life, different backgrounds, different ages and races and
We were blessed with rain today to water our
religions and genders and absolutely none of those
crops, to cleanse us and to carry the last presence
differences held any significance. I witnessed a
of bubba from the surface of the Earth to enrich
conversation between three individuals of different
the soil. Today was a great day. Thank you to all
races, genders and generations who in that mo-
who shared this experience with me this week-
ment were all equals and it was something I wish I
end.”
could see more often.
~ Jon Jackson’s reflections
So, beyond the carcasses and the animals, I hope you can see the humanity and the life there as well. “Today I reset my spirit and have a new under-
29
standing about purpose and what it means to live a fulfilling life. Friends from all over the country came out to share in an experience that connected us all together. Today I offered my friends and the community a hog that was near and dear to my heart. His name was Bubba. People say do not form an emotional attachment to your livestock. I have to disagree. The more we are attached the more we strive to make sure our livestock live the best life. I touched Bubba one last time as he gave his last breath and as we collected his blood for Boudin sausage. I recruited the professional help of my dear friends who gave Bubba the reverence he deserves. His kill was swift and quick. I cried deeply. The whole crowd watched in a flurry of emotions as we treated Bubba with the utmost respect with the end
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Photo Essay: Animal to Meat Part 2 with “Butcher’s Prayer” by Bryan Kyzar
The purest forms of our existence are the entries and exits of our spirits into this world. By witnessing these things we gain a deeper respect for ourselves and others. Many of us here understand that in order for us to live the sacrifice of another life must be given.
30
a growing food movement
It is this understanding that binds us together. It is this understanding that we lead through example to those who are lost. To return to our natural state by following the laws of nature. Working with the earth and not against it. We do things with pride and honor. We raise our gardens and animals with love and we harvest them in a spiritual manner. It is my belief that many of the world’s problems root from a disconnection of how we were born to be.
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It is our responsibility to teach others what we learn here today. Through these events it is my goal to show people what they are missing in life. To feel in their heart what they should feel; to join as a community, work hard, respectfully harvest what they have raised and waste nothing.
The boucherie is about all of this. It brings us back to our basic primals: life, death, food, fire, teamwork. It teaches us the importance of respecting life and supporting those that honor these ways.
32
Our local farmers who bring us a healthy product, raised and grown in a way that is good for our mother earth, keeping our revenue in our community, supporting your neighbor, your family, your friend.
a growing food movement
It is a celebration of those who live and those we have lost. Let us bow our heads in prayers. We thank you Mother Earth for the gifts you have given us. The people we love. The air we breathe. The water we drink and the food we eat. We ask that you give us strength to keep these things sacred and teach others to do so. We ask for a peaceful transition of those animal spirits and let it be willing to make the ultimate sacrifice so that we may live. We ask that you keep our warriors safe as they perform the ceremony of the harvest. For these here in the physical and those in spirit we pray.
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Amen.
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a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
G
EORGIA NATIVE REBEKAH FAULK LINGENFELSER IS A FOOD ENTHUSIAST, WRITER, THE COOKING SHOW HOST OF SKG-TV ON YOUTUBE AND THE STATESBORO HERALD’S LONGTIME FOOD COLUMNIST. THE PERSONALITY BEHIND THE BLOG SOMEKINDAGOOD.COM,
SHE IS A GEORGIA SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY ALUMNA AND ATTENDED SAVANNAH TECHNICAL COLLEGE’S CULINARY INSTITUTE OF SAVANNAH. SEARCH FACEBOOK FOR SOME KINDA GOOD OR TWEET HER @SKGFOODBLOG.
Ingredient Spotlight on Radishes
quite what to do with them, now is a fantastic time to learn and discover. Eaten raw, radishes pack a crisp, cool and peppery
If you’ve visited your local farmers’ market since
punch that can be a great addition to Mexican
March, you’ve seen them everywhere, those big,
dishes, such as tacos. They’re perfect for adding
brightly purplish-pink colored bunches of radishes
color to salads and sautéed green vegetable dishes,
with their long green stems. In Georgia, they’re in
like sugar snap peas or green beans. For a beautiful
season through June, so if you’ve never known
bite, slice them thinly and show them off on openfaced tea sandwiches. Radishes can be eaten raw, roasted or even grilled. Today, I’ll share one of my favorite ways to prepare them: roasted with plenty of course salt and topped off with a little brown butter. I even use the green tops as garnish. Earthy and mild, this side dish would be excellent served alongside grilled chicken or roasted pork tenderloin. The process of roasting mellows out the peppery punch, resulting in a tender and golden-brown treat. To store radishes, chop off the leafy green tops, leaving a little above the root. Keep the roots unwashed until you’re ready to use them and store in (con tinued on page 36)
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 35)
a sealed plastic bag. They’ll last one to two weeks.
Melt butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until butter browns, swirling skillet frequently
Some Kinda Good Roasted Radishes
• • • • •
utes. Transfer roasted radishes to a plate and driz-
Yield: Makes 2 Side-Dish Servings
zle with brown butter. Sprinkle with chopped radish
1 bunch medium radishes (about 10) 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil Coarse kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter
Preheat oven to 450°F. Drizzle a baking sheet with olive oil. Trim green radish tops, leaving about ½ inch of stem; reserve trimmed tops and rinse well. Finely chop radish tops and set aside. Cut radishes lengthwise in half and place them on the baking sheet, white side down. Add olive oil, salt and pepper, and using clean hands, toss thoroughly to coat. Roast until radishes are crisp-tender, stirring occasionally, about 18 minutes. Season to taste 36
to keep butter solids from burning, about 3 min-
with Brown Butter
with more salt.
tops and devour!
a growing food movement
Business Index
W
m
E ARE WORKING TO BE THE DEFINITIVE PLATFORM FOR LOCALLY SOURCED AND SUSTAINABLY PRODUCED FOOD HERE IN SOUTHEAST GEORGIA. THIS LIST INCLUDES BUSINESSES AND FARMS THAT, AT LEAST IN PART, STRIVE TO MEET STANDARDS HIGHER
THAN THOSE SET IN CONVENTIONAL AGRICULTURE. WE HOPE THAT THIS LIST WILL HELP MINDFUL CONSUMERS CONNECT WITH PRODUCERS AND PURVEYORS OF SUSTAINABLE LOCAL FOOD. THOUGH WE HAVE ENDEAVORED TO MAKE A GOOD START, WE ADVISE CONSUMERS TO GET TO KNOW THEIR FARMERS, CHEFS, RESTAURANTEURS AND RETAILERS: ASK QUESTIONS AND LEARN ABOUT WHERE YOUR FOOD IS SOURCED AND HOW IT IS PRODUCED.
Bartow
Cobbtown
Midnight Run Distillary
Dig In Farms
The Hancock Farm, LLC
Baxley Miles Berry Farm (Organic and Conventional) Ten Mile Creek Farm
Cumberland Island Greyfield Inn
Darien Canewater Farm
Blackshear
Turnip Greens
Southern Press and Packing
Dublin
Bristol and Brunswick Rabiteye Winery
Brooklet
Dublin Farm and Ristorante de Maria Local Lands Organically Grown Gardens Market on Madison
Eastman
Hunter Cattle
Dodge County Farmers Market
Brunswick
Eden
Farmer and the Larder Gilliard Farms
Garden Botanicals
Richland Rum
Fitzgerald
Sage’s Larder
El Capitan Longhorns
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Glennville
Nahunta
Watermelon Creek Vinyard
Walnright and Son
Glenwood
Newington
Lola’s Organic Farm
Longwood Plantation
Golden Isles Belham Herbals Earth Inspired Bath and Body
Guyton Better Fresh Farms Greenbridge Farm Heritage Organic Farms
Hinesville The Hinesville Downtown Farmers Market
Kingsland Vacuna Farms 38
Lakeland Gayla Grits Georgia Olive Farms
Lyons Rackettown Wildlife Club
Midville Wildhaven Farm
Midway Foods of the Farm
Southern Native Plantings
Odem Mickey’s Farm, Inc. (Organic Pure Cane Syrup)
Pooler Savannah Sauce Company The Salt Table Two Addison Place Farmers Market
Portal Clark & Sons Organics
Register B & G Honey Farms
Reidsville Grassroots Farm Swampy Appleseed Mushrooms
Rocky Ford Jacob’s Produce
Sandersville Downtown Sandersville Market
Savannah 1540 Room
Milledgeville
Alligator Soul
Comfort Farms
Back in the Day Bakery
Green Market Milledgeville
Brighter Day Byrd’s Famous Cookies
Mt. Vernon
Cha Bella: Farm to Table
Hardeman Apiaries
Cotton and Rye
a growing food movement
East End Provisions
St. Simons Island
Economy Feed and Seed
Halyards Restaurant Little St. Simons Island B&B Savannah Bee Company Sea Island Resort The Market Sea Island Uncle Don’s Market
Elizabeth on 37th Forsyth Farmers Market Frali Gourmet Friendship Coffee Gratitude Gardens Grow. Eat. Repeat. Husk Kayak Kafe Downtown Kayak Kafe Midtown Kitchen 320 Local 11ten Local Farmbag Lucky’s Market Ogeechee Meat Market Prohibitions Russo’s Seafood Savannah Bee Company Savannah Bee Company: Wilmington Island Showroom Service Brewing Company Smith Brothers Butcher Shop South Islands Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market Southbound Brewing Company The Grey The Olde Pink House Restaurant The Salt Table
Statesboro HL Franklin’s Healthy Honey Main Street Farmers Market Scratch Made Catering Three Tree Roasters
Swainsboro Pinetucky Country Meats The Sugar Bowl
Sylvania 4and20 Bakers Boddiford’s Deer Processing Hammons Flatland Farm Old Freeman Family Farm (Danny Anderson’s Real Feed, non-GMO) Savannah River Farms Victory Garden General Store Walker Organic Farms
Townsend Georgia Buffalo Ranch
Thrive Catering
Waycross
Vertu Farm
Waygreen Homestead Guild Waygreen Local Fare Market
Victory Gardens Wilmington Island Farmers Market
Springfield Bootleg Farm, LLC
St. Mary’s Saint Mary’s Community Market
Waynesboro Byne Blueberry Farms Pineland Bakery Southern Swiss Dairy
Woodbine Morning Belle Farms (Organic) Woodbine Farmers Market
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