Southern Soil Compilation Issue 2021 by Southern Soil

Southern

SOIL a growing food

movement

Compilation Issue

2021

Southern

Contents

a growing food movement

04........................................................................................................................................................................EDITORIAL 08..............................................................................................................................COOKING DURING QUARANTINE 14.................................................................................SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: THE PROMISED LAND FARM 16....................................................................................................................... CHEF’S TABLE: GEORGIA SEA GRILL 19..........................................................................................ASK THE EXPERTS: LIVING A GREENER LIFESTYLE 24...................................................................................................NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT: NEW JERSEY TEA 28............................................................................................................... THE BOOKWORM: THE COLOR OF FOOD 32................................................................................................................................................ WHITE OAK PASTURES 42.................................................................................................................... SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: H.K. FARM 46................................................................................................................................EAT LOCAL. SAVE THE WORLD! 49..................................................................................................................................ASK THE EXPERTS: COMPOST 52............................................................................................................. CHEF AND FARMER MATTHEW RAIFORD 58.......................................................................................................... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT: WAX MYRTLE 62......................................................................................................................... THE BOOKWORM: BRESS ’N’ NYAM 64.............................................................................................................................................IN DEFENSE OF SNAKES 74................................................................................................SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: JONES CREEK FARM 78................................................................................................................... CHEF’S TABLE: THE WYLD DOCK BAR 83................................................................................................................................ THE STATE OF THE MAGAZINE 90................................................................................................NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT: CHICKASAW PLUM 94.............................................. THE BOOKWORM: REVISITING LOCAL FOOD BOOKS BY LOCAL AUTHORS 96............................................................................................................. BUILDING COMMUNITY THROUGH FOOD 102........................................................................................................................................... YOU’RE PICKING WHAT? 106............................................................................................................ SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: TRUE EARTH 108...................................................................................... CHEF’S TABLE: SUGAR MAGNOLIA BAKERY & CAFE 112........................................................ HOARDING BACON FAT AND HOLDING ON TO FAMILY TRADITIONS 114........................................................................................... REVIVING THE NEIGHBORHOOD BUTCHER SHOP 120.............................................................................. NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT: SPURRED BUTTERFLY PEA 124...................................................................................................SOME KINDA GOOD IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD 132....................................................................................................................THE BOOKWORM: WILD SPECTACLE 134...................................................................................................................................................... REDUCING WASTE 142..........................................................................................SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: OCEAN GROWN FARM 144..............................................................................................................HOMESTEADING WITH THE PREWITTS 150...............................................................................................................................TWENTY YEARS AT THE BEAN 154............................................................................NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT: CAROLINA CHERRY LAUREL 158........................................................................... THE BOOKWORM: THE HOMESTEADING ENCYCLOPEDIA 160.........................................................................................................................................................BUSINESS INDEX COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021

Southern

Editorial As I sit here contemplating what I should write for

I needed to

this compilation issue of 2021, I find that I already

be able to do

said what I’m wanting to say now in a blog that

the work that I

I wrote in April of 2020. So, I’ve adapted it and

do today. And

included it below.

perhaps the timing was just right as well.

As we head into 2022, looking forward to exciting

As I have spent the last several years getting

things to come and as we look back on the

to know many of you through interviews and

triumphs and trials of 2021, let’s decide together

conversations, I have heard your struggles and

that we will continue forward with growing our local

gotten to know a bit about how you arrived in the

food communities and continue supporting each

places you are now, doing what it is you do within

other in all the beautiful ways that we can!

our food system. I have heard the frustrations and shared the vision and the hope for what our food

You may be familiar with the Biblical story of Esther

systems could be.

… I won’t take the time to go into it here, but it’s

a story that I’ve known since my childhood. The

And during this unprecedented time of uncertainty

main theme of this particular story is that Esther

and upheaval, it seems that perhaps each of us is

is in the right place at the right time with the right

here for such a time as this.

experience and the right attitude in order to take advantage of an opportunity to save her people, her

I’ve had conversations with many of you over our

world.

shared concern for the direction of this country and our increasing dependence on industrialized

At one point when she is weighing her decision

farming systems - heavy chemical usage for

she is asked, is it possible that you are here for just

produce and the inhumane practices for producing

such a time as this?

meats - and the high cost of that type of “food” production on our environment and collective

That’s a phrase that has come back to me

health.

throughout my lifetime, most notably when I was first starting Southern Soil. I had such a seemingly

It was with a sense of urgency that I started

strange path in my life that had taken me in what

Southern Soil, hoping to help provide a way of

seemed to be so many random directions and

educating consumers and encouraging small,

through some very difficult times that were hurtful

sustainable farming operations.

and frustrating. For such a time as this. Yet many of those experiences are exactly what brought me to that place four years ago that

Over the last couple of years we have begun to see

culminated in bringing this magazine to life.

unprecedented demand from consumers for locally

Perhaps all those experiences had been just what

produced foods, we’ve seen Big Ag stumble, we’ve

a growing food movement seen small farms step up. Not only here, but all

be ready and able to show them that local food can

across the country.

meet their needs, that bigger doesn’t always mean better and that local food produced with care and

For such a time as this.

passion is attainable.

Seed companies are selling out of seeds as people

I hope that on the other side of this, our

are turning to their own yards as a source of food

communities have smaller yards and bigger

and are planting gardens in record numbers.

gardens. I hope to see fewer regulations standing

For such a time as this. We have a golden opportunity right now while the world is paying attention to what is happening with our food supplies, so let’s not miss it. Sometimes it feels like the local sustainable food movement here in rural Georgia is more of a dance than a march. Two steps forward, one step back, half a step to the side and do-si-do … everybody swap partners aaaaaaand go back to square one! Let’s keep dancing, but let’s move it forward this time! Farmers, seize this opportunity to connect with your community. They are looking for you, make sure they can find you! It has been exciting to see the ways in which you have embraced ingenuity and found creative ways to pivot your businesses toward more direct sales to consumers. Keep up the great work! Consumers, as always, support your local food system every chance you get! For our dear friends in the restaurant business who are struggling, hold on and come back stronger than ever! As our communities are beginning to see the importance of our local food system, we need to

in the way of local food production. I hope to see more farmers markets. I hope to continue to see consumers searching for local food. I hope there are more stores that carry locally produced items. I hope that our farmers continue to make sales to consumers a priority. I hope that our independent restaurants are back open and booming with business. 5 These are strange times we find ourselves in, but they are also full of opportunity. Are we here for such a time as this? Is this the moment that many of us have been waiting for when we can help tip the balance back toward more sustainable and healthy food systems? Let’s embrace this opportunity as a chance to grow the local food movement and let’s continue to grow together!

LeeAnna Tatum

LEEANNA TATUM, Editor

COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021

Southern

SOIL a growing food

movement

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COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021

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a growing food movement

Cooking During Quarantine:

lessons from John, Catie and Julia

by LeeAnna Tatum

Photos provided by: @cookingwithjohnandjulia Like most Americans, life as they knew it for

“I lived overseas for a little bit and I also traveled. In

Savannah friends Catie Duncan and John Villarrea

almost every country I’ve been to I’ve tried to take a

was thoroughly disrupted by COVID. From an active

cooking class because I love the flavors. I love to try

social, work and school life to working and studying

new recipes,” Catie explained.

from home with limited social interaction, the pair found themselves searching for their new normal. Shopping the weekly farmers market and cooking daily meals helped to add structure to their days while also providing opportunities for safe social interactions. The process of preparing and sharing meals together became a healthy way for Catie and John to deal with stress and keep their outlook positive during the global pandemic.

Add to that a slight obsession with Julia Child and their desire to maintain those social connections with friends and family from whom they were separated and you get an Instagram account devoted to food, fun and some french-inspired “cooking with John and Julia”! It’s not too surprising that these two would turn to cooking during a time of turmoil. Both Catie and John grew up in families where food and cooking were integral to the home.

Cooking was also a big part of family life for John growing up.

Catie, originally from Florida, grew up in the Middle East. Cooking and sharing meals together were an

“Both of my parents love cooking. My dad comes

important part of family life for Catie’s mom. When

from a Hispanic family so cooking is big in the

she was older, Catie did a lot of traveling abroad

culture. And my mom’s family is very big on passing

and enjoyed trying and learning different cuisines.

(con tinued on page 10)

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down recipes. My mom learned the Mexican

Cooking meals together soon became their new

and Latin techniques ... and she’s really good at

normal - providing both a sense of normalcy and a

improvising. My dad loves to cook as well. So

way to add joy to their day.

cooking has always been something important in my family.”

“It became our new routine,” Catie said. “To go from not being able to see your family and I travel for

John also spent time abroad and learned some

work normally and I was grounded. It was just a

new cooking techniques while living in Italy.

lot, it was very overwhelming. Cooking just brought some peace for us. We just started really having

“I learned to make homemade pasta from this little

fun with it.”

Italian lady, Josephina in Continella Italy. In this little bitty village where I was restoring 13th century

The friends loved the movie Julie and Julia. (For

frescas. That’s where I learned to make homemade

those not familiar, it’s based on the true story of

pasta because that’s not something my parents

a woman who

really knew how to do.”

decided to cook her way through

When the shelter at home orders started, Catie

Julia Child’s iconic

and John lived within walking distance of each

cookbook one

other and would often have dinner together. Then

recipe per day and

they decided that instead of facing the quarantine

blog about her

alone, it would be more manageable to stick it out

experience.The

together.

film also weaves in the story of Julia Child’s early years of learning to cook in France and the writing of Mastering the Art of French Cooking). During quarantine, they also began watching episodes of Julia Child’s cooking show The French Chef which originally aired during the ‘60s and ‘70s (now streaming on Prime Video). It became the background noise to their daily quarantine life and quickly influenced their behavior in the kitchen. “We watched her so much we just started naturally mimicking her in the kitchen,” Catie said with a laugh.

a growing food movement

But it wasn’t just Julia that influenced their cooking.

posted on their individual Instagram accounts, so

Catie and John also started doing the bulk of their

the duo decided to create a unique account just for

grocery shopping at Forsyth Farmers Market on

their food postings and @cookingwithjohnandjulia

Saturday mornings. The open-air market offered a

was born.

safer alternative to shopping at the grocery store. “We market than the grocery store,” John explained. “During COVID, having this

“

nice ability to see people

through

(Julia’s

cookbook) in order, we would shop at the farmers market

Cooking just brought some

“

“It’s safer really to go to the

didn’t

peace for us. We just started really having fun with it.

and be social, plus the food is all fresh and local. And that was amazing.”

and

then

see

what

we could make using those ingredients,” Catie explained. “We did the beef

bourguignon which we had on sourdough from the market - it was delicious.”

Their combination of Julia-inspired dishes made

“Sometimes the things we cooked were epic fails,”

with fresh seasonal ingredients along with their

she continued. “We were just doing it because

antics in the kitchen started getting noticed when

we were laughing, but if you were laughing at us (con tinued on page 12)

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cooking and having epic fails or huge successes at least you were entertained.” Their lives have begun to return to a more preCOVID normal which means that they are no longer living together and do not cook shared meals every day. And although their lives have returned to a busier schedule including work, classes (both are in grad school) and a bit more socializing, there are lessons learned and habits developed through the experience that they plan to hold on to.

process. I really like to have people participate, it’s just fun that way.That’s how it is in my dad’s family.. Everyone is together making tamales or tortillas … there’s talking and laughing.” Since quarantine protocols relaxed, Catie started up “We had tons of fun. It’s like therapy for me,” Catie

taco night with her brother and other friends. Rather

said. “To start the process of cooking dinner every

than one person doing the cooking, everyone

night, it’s therapeutic. After a day of working …

brings together things like leftovers or items they

cooking is a way to wind down. I think not a lot of

already have to create a special time of sharing and

people do that any more. So, when we got back into

creating food together.

it because of COVID it was like - I need to do this even when it’s not COVID!”

Shopping at the farmers market continues to be part of their regular routine.

“I think Catie and I both have this aspect to dinner parties,” John explained, “to bring people into the

“The whole going to the farmers market every week

a growing food movement … I wish more people would do that,” Catie said. I

around food. Whether it’s the relationships

go at 9:00 and I’m home by 10:30. It starts you off

developed through regular visits to the farmers

for the weekend … As you shop the farmers market

market, friendships strengthened through the

more, you know what you want and don’t want and

shared experience of preparing meals together, or

you don’t spend a fortune.”

even connecting with neighbors by dropping off a prepared dish; food is a wonderful way to connect

“We all have our own s**t going on in our lives,”

with others and create community.

John said “ … it’s really nice to have this aspect of … if I’m going to stuff my face with food because I’m

John said it well, “No matter the circumstances …

stressed, best believe it’s fresh and local!”

There’s a way to bring this feeling of community share food with other people.”

The quarantine really helped to emphasize to the pair the importance of people coming together

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Small Farm

Spotlight

I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !

Located in Port Wentworth, The Promised Land

It was during his time overseas that Bob gained an

Farm is owned and farmed by brothers Robert and

appreciation for farmers. In a hurry to get away from

Willie Johnson - better known as Uncle Bob and

farm life, Bob joined the Army and served during the

Uncle Bill, self proclaimed farmers “in training”.

Vietnam War. During his 21 years in the service, Bob

The brothers have a long and complicated relationship with farming. Both spent their boyhood

He began to see farming through a new lens and

growing up and working in the fields with their

to recognize the vital role that farmers play. Once

mother and grandparents. Their father was a truck

he saw farming as the means of putting food on

driver and their grandfather was a sharecropper.

his table and feeding his community, Bob’s attitude

As boys, the two had very different attitudes toward 14

spent time in Vietnam, Korea and Germany.

toward farming changed.

farming - older brother Bill loved working on the

After retirement in 1989, Bob bought the land they

farm and has very fond memories of those early

currently farm. Local history has the land originally

years. On the other hand, Bob hated farming. “I’d be

going to freed slave Roderick Steele who was given

the last one to come into the field and the first one

the land for his service in aid of General Sherman -

to go out,” he recalled.

the fulfilment of the promised 40 acres and a mule.

a growing food movement “We got the acreage but we didn’t get the mule,”

these sometimes vulnerable groups are able to have

Uncle Bob says with a laugh. “So, we went with ‘The

a source of nutritious food.

Promised Land’” as our name.

Another means of serving their community, the

While Bob had a newfound love and appreciation

brothers offer the opportunity to rent-a-row. Anyone

for farming, his brother Bill was very content to be

wishing to grow some of their own produce can

retired. “I was determined I wasn’t farming,” Bill said.

rent a row and plant it with anything they would like

“I was going to sit here on the porch and take it easy.

to grow. Planting, tending and harvesting are the

He kept asking me to help him.”

responsibility of the renter.

According to Bob, Bill came to the farm one day to

Herbicides are not used or allowed on the farm. “We

help him with a fire that was being used to clear

don’t use herbicides here,” Uncle Bob states with a

some additional farm land. Bill didn’t remember it

straight face, “we use ‘hoe-besides.” Picking up a

that way and the brothers laugh and argue over the

hoe, he demonstrates, “you use the hoe beside the

specifics. But it’s clear that once Bill did get involved

plant.”

with the farm, the two have enjoyed both working the land and working together!

A recent addition to the farm is an area leased by a KnUW Way Homeschool Cooperative. Kids who

The farm is well known for its cool weather

are a part of the cooperative are able to come to

crop - collard greens. Bob’s birthday is March 6th

the farm and see and experience where their food

and for the past 13 years, the farm has hosted a

comes from. The group has a small chicken coop,

Collard Green Festival on or around that date. Very

composting area, play area and herb garden.

community minded, the brothers donate free greens to veterans and the elderly to help make sure that

Rodney Parker was a customer who befriended the brothers and now spends time helping them work on the farm. His children are also part of the cooperative and are learning about the farm through firsthand experience. Visitors are always welcome to the farm! The farmstand is open most days. Summer crops will include watermelon, corn and sugarcane. They are located at 269 Montieth Road, Port Wentworth GA. 912-631-2949. Follow them on Facebook!

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Chef’s TABLE In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.

Chef’s Table: Georgia Sea Grill (St. Simons Island) 16

Article by: LeeAnna Tatum Photos: Tara Ruby

Georgia Sea Grill is a great place to celebrate

The atmosphere and decor is casually elegant

special occasions. Whether you’re celebrating an

which lends itself well to all kinds of diners!

anniversary, birthday or other life event with family

Whether you’ve just spent the day exploring the

and friends; or simply celebrating the end of the

local beaches or want to take a business client out

workday on a Tuesday or celebrating a visit to the

to dinner, you’ll feel comfortable sitting down to

beach on the weekend.

dine here.

It’s unpretentious fine dining that you can enjoy any

Conveniently located for tourists and locals alike,

day of the week (except Sundays, because they’re

the restaurant is just blocks from the pier on St

closed).

Simons Island.

Proprietor Zack Gowen took ownership of the

Gowen is himself a local to the area and has a

restaurant in December of 2014 and promptly

wealth of experience in the restaurant industry.

moved to a larger location. The spacious dining

With his departure from a franchised restaurant,

room offers a variety of seating areas including a

Gowen committed to sourcing food as locally as

bar and a space that can be divided off for private

possible when he took on Georgia Sea Grill; even

dinner parties.

going so far as to start Potlikker Farm and Satilla

a growing food movement

Ponds in order to grow fresh produce and bring the

changes to the restaurant. They now ask for

freshest catfish to the menu.

reservations which enables them to better control the flow of guests and ensure adequate spacing. Take out is also now available for most menu items. For my visit to Georgia Sea Grill, I was joined by photographer Tara Ruby and her daughter Kylea. We were provided access to the kitchen and served a variety of dishes. We did manage to keep from licking our plates clean …. but just. Every dish was delicious and beautifully plated. The

Speaking of menus, Executive Chef Timothy Lensch

Wasabi Pea Encrusted Tuna served with stir-fried

has created a menu designed around low-country

cabbage, ginger-soy butter and Sriracha aioli was

style dishes with an emphasis on small plates and

definitely a group favorite (we may have fought over

modern Southern fare. Regulars can expect their

the last bite).

favorite dishes to remain on the menu, but Chef also offers daily specials that reflect the seasons

Though my favorite morsel of the evening just

and the local produce that is available.

might have been the Georgia Beef Carpaccio - a

Chef Lensch is also a local who has cooked in

sourced beef with chive aioli, parmesan, capers,

many top kitchens in the South. Lensch enjoys

Georgia olive oil and soft boiled egg served with

the creative aspects of cooking and likes having the freedom to come up with new dishes based on what comes into the kitchen from area farmers and the catch of the day.

build-your-own bite made of thinly sliced, locally

crostini. Everything just worked together to make a truly perfect bite that melted in my

As with everything else, COVID has

mouth.

brought a few

(con tinued on page 18)

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A special for the day, we also had blackened redfish over a sweet corn polenta (amazing!) and an old fashioned chocolate cake with a strawberry buttercream. (It’s also worth noting that (even though I had to take a pass) there is a fairly extensive wine list: both by the glass and the bottle. And although we were there before it got started, live piano music from the bar is piped throughout the restaurant every evening.) Georgia Sea Grill is one of those places that allows you as a customer to simply enjoy your experience, because there’s a sense that true professionals are at the helm. From a professional wait staff to expertly prepared food and a well-maintained environment - you just know that you can sit back and relax in the knowledge that you’re in good 18

hands. Georgia Sea Grill offers up fresh, local, modern, Southern fare in an inviting atmosphere. It’s an accessible fine dining experience that you really shouldn’t miss! For more information including their full menu with prices, check out the website! If you’d like to read more about the relationship between GSG and Potlikker Farm, check out this article: Restaurateur, Farmer, Chef and a Recipe for Change published in 2020.

a growing food movement

Ask the

EXPERTS

Living a Greener Lifestyle

by LeeAnna Tatum

Photos provided by: Kimberly-Carr Home Designs

Husband and wife team Michael and Heather

I met with them to discuss their journey and to

O’Sullivan are the owners and founders of

glean some tips that we can all put to use in our

Kimberly-Carr Home Designs, a company created

own journeys toward a more sustainable lifestyle.

to help people live a greener lifestyle. Their

Following are some questions and answers from

company is a reflection of their personal

these green living experts.

commitment to an environmentally-conscious life. What are a few simple changes we can begin Though admittedly still a far cry from the so-

making today toward a greener lifestyle?

called “zero waste” lifestyle, the couple have made significant strides in their own home to reduce

If you haven’t already done so, Heather suggests

waste in general and, more specifically, to reduce

eliminating single use water bottles and straws.

the use and waste of single-use plastics.

Reusable and portable water bottles are readily (con tinued on page 20)

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available as are reusable straws. “These are simple changes that I think most people can adapt to,” she said. Energy efficiency - use your appliances during offpeak hours. Don’t run the water while brushing your teeth. Simple, common sense measures. Buying from local farmers is not only good for CO2 footprint, but it’s better for your community, better for your bodies to eat organic. Grow some of your own food. Take a gardening class. Make use of resources from the local UGA Cooperative Extension. The textile industry is a very dirty industry - there are things used that are detrimental to the environment and the people who work there. Seek

It was disheartening to know that recycling isn’t solving the problem.

out companies that offer transparency and are

“It’s a lot harder to look at what you’re purchasing

working to reduce the environmental impact and

and make choices based on that. Packaging that

protect their workers. Heather also suggests that

is not plastic… it’s hard to make that shift. I wish

buying second hand is a great way to reduce waste

that I had known sooner and could have made that

and pollution.

switch sooner to keep from having consumed so

“We always try to look for used items as much as possible.” What have been the most challenging changes

much plastic.” We participate in “Plastic free July” to make an effort to focus on reducing our use of plastic.

you have made and what did you learn through

“I think ‘Plastic Free’ being a name for a movement

the process that you wish you’d known sooner?

has kind of scared some people off. So, every year,

Around 2018, National Geographic released the article stating that only 9% of all US recycling

we pick one new thing that we’re not going to use anymore and switch to a reusable.”

is actually recycled. Back in the late 90s when

As part of that process in the course of a normal

recycling began, plastic was marketed as being

day, I used my note function on the phone to note

recyclable, so there was a sense that using plastic

everything I touched that was plastic. There is a

wasn’t so bad.

place for some plastics but not everything needs to be made from plastic.

a growing food movement

It’s hard to avoid plastic especially in food packaging. But that packaging can be washed and reused. As Michael explained, “the fruit that we get for our smoothies comes in a plastic bag, but we wash that out and keep it and reuse it. It works perfectly well, you don’t have to go out and buy new plastic when it’s already there in your hands.” There are products out there that are reusable and can replace many types of single use plastics like plastic wrap and sandwich bags. Stasher bags are made of silicone, we’ve had our first set of 5 for 5 years and still use them. Khala Cloths are a brand of beeswax coated cloth wraps that can replace plastic wrap, they are both reusable and biodegradable. “We have and make and sell reusable bags for the produce at the grocery store, and even we forget sometimes to take them”, Michael admits. So, keeping them at the door or in the vehicle is a great way to make sure you have them with you when you get to the store.

Fight perfectionism and be real about it. You may not be able to achieve “zero waste” but you CAN reduce your waste. “There’s a perception that going green costs money,” Michael explains, “Khala Cloths cost money - it’s cotton, it’s beeswax, it’s labor - it cost money. But it’s an upfront cost. We have not bought plastic wrap in 4 years, so you recoup that cost over time.” Some people say that going green costs a lot of money. What are some inexpensive, DIY ways to go green?

What do you think is the biggest hurdle for people to start living more sustainably?

We take bath towels that have become frayed and cut them up and use them in place of paper

“I think overwhelm is a big part of it,” Heather says.

towels and napkins. They are perfectly fine, they are

When presented with images of massive amounts

washable, there’s no added expense. And it reduces

of plastic in the ocean or other overwhelming

the need to buy single use paper items with plastic

images, it can make one just want to look the other

packaging.

way. The other issue is that it’s hard to understand how as an individual what you do can possibly matter. Just take it one item at a time.

There’s a second use for a lot of things. We use our yard and grow things that we can use. We grow bamboo which we use for our reusable straws and we also grow our own luffa. (con tinued on page 2 2)

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You can make your own detergents and household

We get 50 city miles on an 80% charge (the battery

cleaners. There are lots of instructions online for

is not charged to full capacity to protect the life of

making them.

the battery). There are few maintenance issues. It’s saved a lot of money in gas and lowered our carbon footprint immensely over the last few years. We love it and highly recommend it. What’s next...? One of our big goals is to sell this house in a few years and get in a tiny home somewhere and live off-grid. We’re really excited about that and researching that and trying to figure out how to make that happen. Tiny homes are 40-50% more energy-efficient than traditional single family homes. As home footprints get larger and larger, there’s fragmentation of

ecosystems. And we all suffer as animal habitats are lost.

I see that you guys own an Electric Vehicle. What would you say to someone who is thinking about buying one? We bought our electric vehicle used a couple years ago. It’s a 2013 Nissa Leaf. There is battery degradation that takes place over time which limits the amount of miles it can go. The newer vehicles have addressed that issue and can go further. We use it as an about town kind of car. Heather takes it to work everyday and we use it to run errands and it’s a fantastic car. All we do is plug into a 120 volt outlet during off-peak hours and it costs literally dollars a month to use it every day.

We’ll be consuming less. It’s a model of living a very rich life but you don’t need things to fill it with. We have a goal of growing more of our own foods. We are adding more native plants for pollinators and will be planting more fruit trees here on this property. To learn more about the O’Sullivan’s journey in green living and to see the products they offer, visit their website!

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(Photo: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org)

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Native Plant Highlight: New Jersey Tea Ceanothus americanus

By Eamonn Leonard eamonn.leonard@dnr.ga.gov

This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.

Description and Native Habitat

Garden Uses

New Jersey Tea is a shrub in the buckthorn family

As with all plant material you are considering, you

(Rhamnaceae) and has many other names, red

need to evaluate all aspects of its temperament

root, redshank, soap flower, wild snow ball, snow

to determine if it will be a good fit. Certain

bush, and mountain lilac to name a few. It grows

characteristics could be a positive in one situation

as a compact, rounded, deciduous shrub 2-3’ tall

or a negative in another. It also depends on what

and wide in sun to part shade covered in elongated

soil type, soil moisture, and light conditions you

clusters of white flowers for about a month in late

have as well as the aesthetic you are going for in

spring to early summer.

your home garden design.

Flowers are followed by dark brown round capsules

One tough plant: The fact that this shrub develops

that eventually explode to disperse seed in its

a deep extensive root system is a positive attribute

natural environment. It is found in areas with well

as it makes it much more resilient to dry and

drained gravely to sandy soils with an extremely

droughty conditions. Once established. It can

wide range that covers much of the eastern United

have a relatively slow growth rate because it is

states (Bonap.com).

expending resources to develop its deep root system.

This is a tough plant suited to dry soil because of its extensive root system. In the Coastal Plain of

This feature can make it take a while for the

Georgia, it is often found in sandy upland plant

above-ground portion to create substantial growth.

communities dominated by longleaf pine and

However, the deep root system on established

wiregrass. As this is a fire-maintained community,

plants makes them difficult to transplant. So just

New Jersey tea tolerates periodic prescribed burns.

make sure you plant it exactly where you want it. (con tinued on page 26)

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This species also tends to sucker once established which can be a benefit if used in a hillside stabilization or an erosion control situation. In the home landscape this tendency to sucker might make this plant better suited for massing in low maintenance more natural style landscape (Foote & Jones 1998).

(Celastrina neglecta), and mottled duskywing (Erynnis martialis) feed on the flowers, flower buds, and fruit of the New Jersey tea (Wynia, 2010).

(Photo: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org)

As tough as this plant is, it is not resistant to wildlife browsing as deer and rabbit find it quite tasty, so will need protection when first planted until established. This shrub does recover well after fire, so this is a benefit if you are using prescribed fire to manage your landscape.

(Photo: Christa Hayes Summer Azure butterfly)

Attract pollinators: The flowers of New Jersey tea

Provide food: Two important game species

are not only attractive to the human eye they also

(turkeys and quail) use the seeds as a food source

attract many native pollinators including butterflies,

(Wynia, 2010).

moths, wasps, bees, flies, and beetles. The flowers are a source for nectar and pollen.

Other uses: New Jersey tea was named Herb

This shrub is also a host plant for several species

as the 2019 Wildflower of the Year by the Virginia

of butterfly (Lotts et al., 2017). Caterpillars of the

Native Plant Society. As its name implies, the dried

spring azure (Celastrina ladon), summer azure

leaves have been used as a source to make a

Society of America Native Plant of 2019 as well

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caffeine-free tea-like drink especially popular during

Hale, K. (2019). ‘New Jersey Tea: Making You

the Revolutionary War.

an Offer You Shouldn’t Refuse’ [Herb Society of America Blog online]. Available at: https://

Flowers make light green dye. The rest of the plant

herbsocietyblog.wordpress.com/2019/03/06/

makes a cinnamon red dye (Hale, 2019). The roots

new-jersey-tea-making-you-an-offer-you-

yield a red dye and have a variety of medicinal uses.

shouldnt-refuse (Accessed 2021-01-28)

Flowers contain saponins and will create a lather when crushed and mixed with water (VA Native Plant Society, 2019). Propagation: “Propagation by seed is best; cloth bags will help catch the seeds as fruits mature; brief scarifying with hot water (180 °F to 200 °F) followed by stratification at ca 40 °F for two or three months will improve seed germination.” (VA Native Plant Society 2019). Do not wild collect any species without landowner permission. Look for reputable

Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP). 2015. North American Plant Atlas. (http://bonap.net/napa). Chapel Hill, N.C. [maps generated from Kartesz, J.T. 2015. Floristic Synthesis of North America, Version 1.0. Biota of North America Program (BONAP). (in press)]. Lotts, Kelly and Thomas Naberhaus, coordinators. 2017. Butterflies and Moths of North America. Data set accessed 2021-01-28

native plant nurseries that supply this species

at http://www.butterfliesandmoths.org/.

from sustainable sources. Check out the list of

Virginia Native Plant Society (2019). ‘Wildflower

recommended native plant nurseries compiled

of the Year 2019 New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus

by the Georgia Native Plant initiative. https://

americanus)’ [online]. Available at: https://vnps.

botgarden.uga.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/

org/2019-wildflower-of-the-year-new-jersey-tea-

Directory-of-Native-Plant-Nurseries.pdf

ceanothus-americanus/ (Accessed 2021-01-28)

References:

Foote, L.E., Jones S.B. 1998. Native Shrubs and Woody Vines of the Southeast: Landscaping uses and identification. 91 p. Timber Press, Inc.,

Wynia, R.L. 2010. Plant fact sheet for New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus). USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service, Manhattan Plant Materials Center. Manhattan, KS 66502.

Portland OR.

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orm w k oo B e

reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF THE COLOR OF FOOD: STORIES OF RACE, RESILIENCE AND FARMING BY NATASHA BOWENS The Color of Food: Stories of Race, Resilience and Farming written by Natasha Bowens shares the stories of those often underrepresented in the agricultural community. Her portraits paint a vibrant picture of America’s farming community today and it’s checkered past. Bowens, a self-described “Brown Girl Farming”, frequently found herself feeling out of place as the only woman of color participating in agricultural-related events like conferences, farmers markets and community gardens. 28 “There I was, barefoot in the mud wondering, ‘Why am I the only brown person here? This whole organic farming thing can’t just be for hipsters. I mean, we all come from the land, so why does it seem like young White folks are the only ones going back to it? People of color farm too, right?’” Setting out across the country, Bowen discovered that not only are people of color returning to the land, but many never left it - providing a rich history of Native Americans, Black Americans, Asians and Hispanics who have contributed and continue to contribute to the rich tapestry of agriculture in this country. Her portraits provide insight into the hurdles uniquely faced by farmers of color due to discriminatory practices, denied access to land, and cultural stigma that have made farming particularly difficult for these groups. However, there are also stories of persistence, perseverance and triumph. Bowen also addresses the cultural stigma toward farming and “returning to the land” as many African Americans still associate farming with slavery. Gary Grant of the Black Farmers and Agriculturists Association is quoted as saying, “The Black community, because of slavery, has a disdain for agriculture … We as

Black people don’t respect the Black farmer. It’s something we have to overcome … I’ve realized you have to change the conversation. It’s about land ownership and what that’s allowed us to do. We start talking about the value of the land and what it has done for us as a people and it helps to change that stigma a little bit.” The Color of Food allows the reader to gain a better understanding of our agricultural landscape as a whole through the eyes of many different groups of people throughout the country - gaining insights and perspectives that often go unseen in traditional depictions of America’s farmers.

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a growing food movement

White Oak Pastures: closing the loop

by LeeAnna Tatum

When it comes to transitioning a farm from conventional to regenerative practices, there is likely no better example than White Oak Pastures. Within a single generation, the farm has gone from a monoculture cog in the industrial-agriculture machine to a living, breathing, closed-loop symbiotic ecosystem where multiple types of livestock thrive. While this farm did pivot while under the leadership of one man, Will Harris III, the change did not take place overnight. And, in fact, there was no master plan set in place by Harris to intentionally make a transition from industrial to regenerative farming

- change was gradual and the process was more

Photo provided by White Oak Pastures

organic, you might say, than manufactured.

Will Harris, fourth generation cattleman and first generation regenerative farmer. “I never had a business plan to move from ‘this is what I’m doing’ to ‘this is what I’m going to do’,” Harris said of the transition process. “It didn’t work like that. I just moved away from it. It was very (con tinued on page 3 4)

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gradual … it’s still happening. It’s a journey not a

family and local community in its early years

destination - we’re not there yet.”

shifted toward industrialization following WWII.

Harris inherited the family farm which was founded

Harris’ grandfather was the farm’s custodian during

in 1866 by his great, great grandfather in Bluffton,

that period. Like nearly every other farmer during

Georgia.

that time, he bought into the industrialized model of farming and focused on raising one thing - cattle.

The story of White Oak Pastures is very representative of the broader story of agriculture

His father continued that model of farming and

in America. What started out as a diverse farm

was a successful cattleman, making use of all

consisting of many different species of animals

the modern conveniences of farming: chemical

and a variety of crops to meet the needs of the

pesticides and fertilizers, hormones and antibiotics.

Photo provided by White Oak Pastures

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Cattle was finished in an onsite feedlot with a high

agriculture. Not exactly welcomed back on the farm

carbohydrate diet of corn and soy.

by his father, Harris went to work for an agricultural company instead.

The farm was streamlined, efficient and profitable. Harris returned to the farm in the mid 70’s when “My father was the best cattleman I’d ever

his father’s health began to decline. While the

known,” Harris said. “He was good at it. Financially

two alpha personalities may have clashed over

successful.”

leadership, the industrial model was never in

Wanting to follow in the family tradition, Harris

question.

went to the University of Georgia and majored in

“It was very competitive between me and my daddy

Animal Science where he learned industrial animal

… we both wanted to control it. And he was going to (con tinued on page 36)

Grazing patterns as viewed from a drone. Cattle are moved on a regular basis from one paddock to another to simulate natural grazing habits of herd animals in nature. This rotation of different animal species through the paddocks is good for the soil and animals alike. COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021

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control it - make no mistake,” Harris said.

It started with the idea of animal welfare.

Harris became a successful cattleman in his own

Harris, and his father and grandfather before him,

right, and for the next twenty years he continued

believed they were acting responsibly and working

the traditions laid down by his grandfather and

the land and raising animals in a manner that would

father, as well as those instilled in him through his

qualify as good stewardship. Like thousands of

education.

other well-meaning farmers, they made choices that made sense in terms of finances and efficiencies. Their animals were not mistreated, basic needs were met - what more was there? “For me and all of my peers and, still most people in animal agriculture,” Harris explained, “good animal welfare means that you keep them well fed, well watered, in a comfortable temperature range and you don’t intentionally inflict pain and suffering on them. If you do all that - you check the boxes.”

At White Oak Pastures, the emphasis is on creating healthy soil and pastures. The result is happy, healthy livestock and quality meat production.

“And that’s really not enough,” he continued. “Beyond all that, you’ve got to provide the animal with an environment in which they can express instinctive behavior.”

transition of the farm began.

“I say that cows were born to roam and graze, chickens were born to scratch and peck, hogs were born to root and wallow.”

“I wish I had a better story,” Harris said with a laugh.

“My cattle feedlot did not allow that. And industrial

By the mid 90s, however, he began to question aspects of the industrialized farm system in which he was participating and slowly but surely the

“I wish I could say I went to a burning bush and God

chicken houses don’t allow that. And hogs on

told me what to do.”

concrete don’t allow that. The industrial agricultural

“I went from a model I really loved,” he stated matter

you do that, you put them in a low level of stress 24

of factly. “I loved that linear, Western, alpha, more-

hours a day, seven days a week for their whole life.”

is-better (model); I was good at that and I loved that for a long time. But I started becoming more aware of the unintended consequences for the animals, the land and later the community; and just kind of moved away from it.”

model deprives them of that opportunity. And when

“And that realization … and when you move to that higher level of animal welfare, you give up that efficiency, but you gain a lot of resilience.” The earliest changes on the farm included giving

UNINTENDEDa growing CONSEQUENCES food movement up the feedlot and bringing an end to hormone implants and supplemental antibiotics. As Harris focused on the wellbeing of his livestock, he also began seeing the unintended consequences of monoculture on the land itself. The use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides on the fields were next on the list to go, then tillage. The transition period wasn’t always pretty. New grazing practices were implemented which began to infuse the land with much-needed organic matter (through manure), but the improvements weren’t instantaneous. “The industrial agricultural system breaks the cycles of nature,” Harris explained. “We were the first species, humans were the first species, that ever became powerful enough to break the cycles of nature and we do that through technology.” “And the cycles of nature - to name a few - are: the water cycle, the mineral cycle, carbon cycle, energy cycle, microbial cycle … cycles we aren’t smart (con tinued on page 38)

The term “unintended consequences” most often has a negative connotation, but sometimes the reverse can be true! As is the case with White Oak Pastures (WOP) and the surrounding community. Will Harris and the managers of WOP didn’t purposely engage in rural development or establish a plan to bring about a restoration of downtown Bluffton, it just happened as a natural result of the farm’s growth. But once they realized the positive effect they were having, “rural revival” became the third tenet of their core values. The other two tenets being: animal welfare and land regeneration. Over the past ten years, WOP has bought and restored a number of buildings downtown, including the General Store and several houses, infusing new business and life back into the tiny community. With a population of 103, Bluffton had experienced a decline that is all too familiar across rural Georgia. No jobs, no opportunities, no growth … nothing to encourage people to stay, much less draw new people in. The restoration of the town’s General Store has created a new and vibrant hub for this small town. It’s literally THE place to be! Residents, visitors and farm employees gather here to eat, shop (grocery and toiletry items are available as well as WOP products), and visit! 37 Oh… and it’s also one of the few spots with reliable cell service (we know how that goes in rural areas!) and wifi is available here for employees and guests of the farm. WOP has bought and restored several homes some of which are used for farm managers and staff homes, as well as intern housing. But there are also a couple houses in town which WOP rents for farm visits! Cabins have also been built on the farm itself and are available for farmstays. Guests have the opportunity to tour the farm, go on a trail ride, or just unwind and unplug! Agricultural tourism at its best. Of course, all this change hasn’t been met with open arms from everyone in the community, but there is no doubt that WOP has made a positive impact on the local economy and infrastructure C O M P I L A T set I O N out I S StoU Edo~ so 2 0or 2 1not! - whether they intentionally

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enough yet to recognize. But the use of technology: chemical fertilizers, pesticides, tillage - broke those cycles and that causes desertification.” “We’re in Georgia and desert in Georgia - that sounds stupid. But it ain’t,” Harris asserted. “This land is a desert that gets 52 inches of rain a year it’s still a desert.” Animals raised on White Oak Pastures are given the environment and opportunity to express their innate behaviors. agriculture relies on symbiotic relationships. And where industrial agriculture creates waste, regenerative agriculture makes use of “waste”. Today, White Oak Pastures is approximately 3,500 Pastures are a diverse mix of annuals and perennials - grasses, clover, millet and much more! 38

Regenerative agriculture is a system that works to restore those natural cycles by closing as many loops as possible. Where industrial agriculture

acres of rich farmland watered only by rainfall and fertilized by the “waste” of cows, goats, sheep, poultry and rabbits. The ground is tilled by thousands of hooves and claws. Chickens, turkeys and other fowl work tirelessly at pest control and parasite management.

streamlines, regenerative agriculture diversifies.

Putting in the hard work to ensure the wellbeing

Where industrial agriculture creates efficiencies,

of his livestock, he did not like the idea of shipping

regenerative

them off to be slaughtered elsewhere. In 2008,

agriculture

Harris leveraged the farm in order to build an onsite

cultivates

abattoir. The abattoir, designed by Temple Grandin,

resilience.

ensures the most humane process possible. A few

Where industrial

years later, a poultry abattoir was also added to the

agriculture

farm.

requires inputs, regenerative

Aside from ensuring less stress on the livestock and humane slaughter, the onsite abattoir also means that the farm can reincorporate the “waste” like: blood, feathers and intestines. These byproducts

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are composted on the farm and eventually go back

When it comes to working with his daughters, Jenni

into the land, feeding the soil and closing the loop

Harris and Jodi Harris Benoit, Harris admits there’s

(soil feeds plants, plants feed animals, animals feed

a stark contrast with how things were between him

soil).

and his father.

As they work toward becoming a zero-waste

“The family dynamic is different,” Harris stated.

system, the staff of White Oak Pastures have found

“My daddy … He and I struggled to work together.

many creative and profitable outlets for what was

I mentioned earlier, we were both … like two alpha

once considered waste.

bulls going head to head. And I’ve got these daughters … and when they wanted to come back… (Harris shook his head at the recollection) ... I remembered those bad ol’ days!” “But it’s very different,” he continued. “it’s different with

Healthy ecosystems are evident throughout the farm as nature lives and thrives alongside livestock.

daughters, they want to please me and I don’t want

Hides, depending on their quality, are used for

“Very, very different,” he said with a smile.

things like: cow hide rugs, leather goods (made onsite but the tanning process is outsourced), and rawhide treats for dogs. Tallow is used for creating soaps and candles. And as mentioned before, all waste that can’t be repurposed in another way becomes valuable compost for keeping the soil healthy. Another aspect of the farm’s transition has been the addition of women in leadership. In previous generations the farm was passed from father to son, but Harris has no sons. Two of his three

to hurt their feelings.”

Though it is very much a family business (not only do two of his daughters work there, but both of their spouses do as well), Harris takes exception to the idea that it is a “family-run” business. “This is a family owned business, it’s not necessarily a family run business,” Harris said. “Me and my two daughters and two in-laws do run the business, but there’s a lot of other people who help run this business. It wouldn’t be what it is without these non-family members!”

daughters have returned to the farm and work alongside their father.

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White Oak Pastures currently employs around

plenty of room for more farms like his serving their

180 people, It is pretty much the only employer in

own communities.

Bluffton and is the largest employer in the county. The farm also has an intern program which helps

As a leader in the field, one of the questions Harris

train future farmers who come from all over to learn

gets most is, “at what scale does this type of

about regenerative farm practices and humane

farming work?”

animal husbandry and to gain the practical skills necessary to farm.

His answer: it’s entirely situational!

It’s been more than 25 years since Harris began

“It could work on a very small scale - if you’ve got

shifting his farm away from the industrial model and during that time he has become a leader in the regenerative farm movement. The farm has also grown considerably in that time. When it comes to feeding the world through regenerative agriculture, Harris sees it less as an issue of scaling up and more about replication. He also doesn’t view other regenerative farmers as his competitors, he saves that distinction for 40

industrialized ag companies. As he sees it, there is

a ¼ of an acre yard in one of those zip codes in Massachusetts with a seven-digit annual income, it will work! If you’ve got 12,000 acres of paid-for land in an impoverished area of Georgia,” he says with a shrug “… well, it’s situational.” “If you’re in the right zip code, it’s easy. If you’re in an impoverished area, it’s not easy.” Harris suggests instead that farmers keep in mind that there are three key areas which need to stay

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in sync: production, processing and marketing/

with a lot more money than me go broke because

distribution.

they didn’t keep the three legs on the stool coming up together.”

“What’s important is there’s three legs on the stool. There’s production out of the pasture or field, which

Harris admits that they haven’t always gotten it

is what we all love and it’s what we tend to focus

right as White Oak Pastures has grown over the

on. There’s processing, which means taking the

years. When they decided to add poultry production

production so that you monetize it. Consumers

to the farm, they went all in - assuming that since

don’t buy cows and hogs and sheep, they buy beef

they had cracked the code with cattle, it would be

and pork and lamb. And then there’s the marketing/

simple to do it again with poultry.

distribution - you’ve got to get to them.” “I went into the poultry business too big, too quick “Any scale can work, as long as you keep the

and it cost me a bunch of money,” Harris said.

three legs on the stool coming up or going down

“We were kind of drunk on success with the cattle,

together,” he continued. “It can be very low scale,

which is what we were good at. I didn’t see why we

low volume or it can be high. Keeping those three

couldn’t do poultry on the same scale. We wound

legs (in balance) is very hard. It’s gotten away from

up not doing good. We’ve figured it out now.”

us before and it will get away from anybody … I’ve seen a lot of people a lot smarter than me and

“I don’t have too many regrets. Of the many things I did, if I had it to do over again … I would probably have taken a more measured approach to that.” But Harris is not a man to dwell on regrets. From his earliest memories, farming is the one and only thing that he ever wanted to do and after a lifetime of experience, he still gets up every day excited to do the job he loves. “I LOVE what I do. I’ve got such a good job. I love working with these people - family and just-likefamily. I’ve got a good gig! I wouldn’t change anything. I’ll never retire.”

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Small Farm

Spotlight

In the early stages of transition, H.K. Farm

H.K. Farm in its current form was established

is shifting away from conventional farming

when Handy Kennedy, II left 900 acres to his

as part of an overall plan to make the farm

twelve children. Rather than dividing the land

more profitable and appealing to the younger

between them, the siblings decided to keep

generations. Focusing on niche markets and the

the farm together and run it as equal partners

technological advances in DNA testing, they hope

through incorporation.

to develop a highly marketable cattle breeding program and continue to grow their industrial

The siblings are the fourth generation to farm the

hemp operation.

land located near Cobbtown originally purchased

Brothers HK and Ben are two of the twelve Kennedy siblings who share ownership of H.K. Farm.

Fireplace and deck of the MJ Legacy Center. The Center is

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a spacious gathering place located on the beautiful and serene grounds of H.K. Farm. The Center can be rented for events and gatherings.

by their great grandfather, the first Handy

nature through activities like gardening, animal

Kennedy, a hardworking and industrious farmer

husbandry, fishing, archery and horseback riding.

who overcame incredible odds to establish a

Though enjoyment is a big part of the day, kids

farm of his own in 1869.

also help with work that needs doing on the farm.

Though none of the current generation, or Gen

Gen 4 also added the MJ Legacy Center to the

4 as they refer to themselves, chose to stay and

farm. It is a venue for weddings, reunions and

work the farm full time, they have kept the land

other events (reopening later this year). Named in

intact and have continued family traditions there

honor of their mother, the MJ Legacy Center is a

- including growing and pressing sugarcane - and

reflection of her community spirit and hospitality.

have used the land to benefit the community.

MJ was known for excellent cooking. She loved

(Many of those activities were suspended in

her garden and also planted fruit trees so she

2020 due to Covid.)

could enjoy fresh produce in season - a tradition that is continued on the farm today.

The farm has hosted Youth Days enabling kids who are mostly from the Atlanta area to experience a taste of farm life and connect with

The farm is currently going through a transition (con tinued on page 4 4)

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process as the current leadership works to turn

devote their attention to the farm.

the farm into a business that would be able to provide full time employment for members of the

While they have always kept some cattle on the

next generation.

land, they are shifting their cattle operation to become more intentional with their breeding

“In order to get the youth you have to make sure

program and build it into a successful business.

they can make a living at it,” Handy Kennedy, III (HK) said as spokesman for Gen 4. “And in

“We’re raising black angus beef cattle,” HK said.

order to make a living at it, you have to do it like

“And we’re implementing some sustainable

anything else in life - you have to treat it like a

practices. We’re moving into a controlled-

business, you have to run it like a business.”

environment breeding method and we’re going to try to have a target market for our beef.”

HK and his brother Ben both plan to retire from their full time jobs within the next 5 years and

“We want to start from the beginning and build

H.K. Farm’s first hemp harvest in 2020.

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good seed stock and work toward the full

and will soon be available to purchase on their

process … we want to be able to offer direct sales

website. They intend to continue to develop

to consumers in the future,” HK continued.

their crop in order to meet specific needs of consumers.

By using the latest developments in genetic testing and following the Expected Progeny

H.K. Farm has moved away from chemical

Differences (EPDs) data, they hope to be as

inputs on the land and are working toward a

efficient as possible in choosing breeding stock

regenerative farming model. Ben has a small

that will help them build a herd of quality beef

herd of goats on the farm and eventually they

cows.

would like to add chickens and begin a rotational grazing method with their livestock.

In 2020, they also added a new crop to their farm - industrial hemp. Adding hemp production

“It’s hard for small farmers,” HK explained. “It

to the farm is another way that Gen 4 is working

takes time and effort to get to the regenerative

to lay the foundation for a successful business

method, but we’ll get there. We’re taking small

for the next generation. With their first year of

incremental steps.”

production behind them, they are ready to move forward into the second season with a few

H.K. Farm is deeply rooted in a tradition of hard

lessons learned.

work, community involvement and commitment to strong family values. Gen 4 is working

“We had a few issues,” HK said of their first

diligently to build on the family’s legacy and

season. “We ran into all types of challenges just

prepare the farm to be profitable for future

like any new business from beginning to end.

generations.

Sometimes you just don’t know what you don’t know. But we learned a lot and we can correct a

While many of the farm’s usual activities were

lot of things now. Growing, collecting, harvesting

suspended due to COVID, they are hoping to

and marketing.”

get things back to normal starting this summer. You can learn more about H.K. Farm and the

H.K. Farm is selling CBD oil under their own

opportunities available there on their website.

brand which is available to purchase at the farm

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a growing food movement

Eat Local. Save the World!

by Elizabeth Holladay and Patrick J. Holladay, Ph.D.

You can help save the world! No, this is not some

given environment1. In other words, how many

kind of grandiose idea. It really starts with what’s

species and how many individuals of these species

on your plate. Locally sourced meals from small

are there wherever you happen to be in the world.

farms save natural resources, improve biodiversity,

Included in all of these are the plants and animals

decrease pollution, and encourage animal welfare.

that provide our food and food production. But,

Also, let’s support poison free food—pesticides

sadly, of the 6000 kinds of food that are grown

are bad for every living thing. We hope you are on

for food in the world, only nine foods account for

board! So, let’s have a look at some of these in a

a whopping 66% of all crop production! That is

little more detail.

not very biodiverse at all, is it? As reported by the

Locally sourced meals save natural resources

Food and Agricultural Organization of the United

According to the Natural Resources Defense

sugar beet and cassava. Not a lot of variety on that

Council, a U.S. environmental advocacy group, the

menu and a lot of sugar crops. By supporting local

average American meal contains food from five

farmers who are growing a diverse variety of crops,

different continents! One of the biggest issues with shipping food and its impacts on the environment is water. Current agricultural practices in the U.S. account for 67% of all the country’s freshwater use. As indicated by the World Economic Forum, eating foods that are out-of-season and not grown locally produces a huge drain on freshwater

Nations (FAO) these nine crops are sugar cane, corn, rice, wheat, potatoes, soybeans, oil-palm fruit,

using natural or organic agriculture, agroecology and permaculture practices (e.g. food forests) we are combating loss of biodiversity to pests, climate change, and monocropping as well as enhancing soil conditions, and improving food nutritional values.

supplies. The way out of this? Start connecting with local farmers, Georgia Farm Bureau has a list of farmers markets and visit some farms like these listed in Explore Georgia. Also, we invite you to do some research into some of the great businesses through directories such as found in Southern Soil, the very magazine you are currently reading!

Locally sourced meals improve biodiversity.

Locally sourced meals decrease pollution

One of the issues with not sourcing food locally is food’s carbon footprint. A carbon footprint is how much carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere due to the burning of fossil fuels. Put another way, how much gas is burned for you to

Biodiversity, also known as biological diversity, is

get whatever it is that you are eating? According to

the variation and variability of organisms in any

a Columbia University article, most foods produced (con tinued on page 4 8)

COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021 Holladay, P. J. (2015). Biodiversity. In C. Cater, Garrod, B., & Low, T. (Eds.) The Encyclopedia of Sustainable Tourism. Oxford: CABI. pp. 54-55. 1

Southern (con tinued f r om page 4 7)

in the US travel 1,500 miles from farm to plate.

through amazing organizations like WayGreen,

The National Sustainable Agricultural Information

Inc., Southeast Georgia’s Local Food Coalition, the

Service calls these “food miles” and advocates for

Georgia Fruit and Vegetable Growers Association,

local food systems which reduce transportation

Georgia Organic’s Good Food Guide or have a look

costs, provide fresher, better tasting food and keep

at Georgia Grown businesses. Do keep in mind,

food dollars in rural communities.

however, that there is a process to receive the Georgia Grown label so there are still plenty of great local products out there that may not have become

Locally sourced meals encourage animal welfare

We believe it important to mention that agricultural working conditions and wages should be healthy for people and livestock. According to the Animal Welfare Institute less than 1% of animals raised for

members yet.

Our closing thoughts on eating local to save the world Long before the term locavore existed, we knew

consumption are raised in humane conditions. In

mullet tasted best when caught at dawn close to

fact, most livestock are raised on “factory farms”,

home and fried up fresh for a breakfast of fish and

which are industrialized, large-scale, intensive

grits. And that peaches were a treat that we had

production facilities. According to the United

to wait till July to enjoy here in South Georgia. If

Nations Environment Programme, these “farms” are

you really want to bring someone around to your

intense polluters, promote the spread of disease,

point of view then feed them local shrimp, wild

create human health issues, contaminate soil and

blackberries or amazing vegetables from the local

water, and use extremely poor land management

farmers market.

practices. But there is hope and it is found in your local farmers. We want to give a big shout-out to

If you care about nature, people and your

Brandon Chonko of Grassroots Farms, in Camden

community (and we know you do!) then you will

County, Georgia. We’ve been buying heritage pork

conserve it. And you can start with what you put on

and pasture raised chickens from Brandon for quite

your plate. Local, seasonal, and poison free aren’t

a long time now and they are outstanding products!

just tastier but better for us and the planet too. So,

And we are not alone. Grassroots Farms has a

support your neighbors. Just think if you eat some

big following of happy eaters all up and down the

local eggs and veggies and fruit for breakfast you

coast. And Grassroots Farms is certainly not the

have done something powerful. Local is the new

only farm or ranch doing this; there are a number

standard! Eating close to home is good for the soul

of great livestock producers in South Georgia.

and the planet. And it’s yummy!

We encourage you to find them in your region

a growing food movement

Ask the

EXPERTS

Compost

by LeeAnna Tatum

Environmentally conscious couple Michael and

purchased for collecting appropriate food waste

Maria Wedum are on a mission to help the City

and exchanged on a weekly basis for an empty

of Savannah divert food scraps from the landfill

bucket.

and restore the depleted soils of the area’s local farms. The couple founded COR Composting (COR

For those who want to compost for their own use

stands for Code of Return) two years ago with a

in the garden or who don’t live in Savannah, the

simple principle in mind - close the loop!

couple offers free consultations by phone or email.

COR Composting not only works with restaurants

I spoke with Maria to learn more about backyard

and businesses to keep their food waste out

composting and to put together some basic

of landfills, but they also work with individuals.

information to encourage anyone who might be

For those who live within their service area

thinking of composting and answer some basic

in Savannah, a COR Compost bucket can be

questions a new composter might have. (con tinued on page 50)

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What is compost? Composting is the decomposition of organic based material. And when I say “organic” it’s what was once living or carbon-based. The process is done by micro-organisms that feed off these sources and then creates a final product full of nutrients and the kind of texture and mass that is really great for a growing medium for plants.

of positive benefits of that when you’re talking about a large amount of waste from a society.

Why is composting important? You may feel that as one person, you’re not going to make a difference. But if we all take that little bit of change, little bit of accountability and take back that power, we can create positive solutions for the future and resiliency for yourself and your community and that’s super inspiring. A lot of people think that compost is only important 50

for someone who is interested in gardening, but compost has so many environmental benefits … I could ramble on for hours. Reducing greenhouse gasses is an important

We have to, at a certain point, come up with a better way - a more efficient way - to process our waste. Get it out of a linear cycle and get it into a circular cycle where we’re actually creating a regenerative natural resource. And that’s what’s so awesome about compost! It’s not waste anymore, it’s a valuable resource. We all have the waste and we have to figure out what to do with it and to do this solves so many parts of those problems that are out there. Compost can also help conserve water, decrease the need for chemicals and help build and improve the health of soil.

one. The reason why it’s so effective in reducing greenhouse gasses is with composting you have the natural process of decomposition in the forest. You have the perfect process of it in its natural form, so you still get the carbon cycle with that.

How can I get started? We try to encourage someone who has backyard space and would like to do composting. We offer

The problem with food waste being diverted into

a lot of free consultations by email or phone. And

landfills is it creates an anaerobic process which

also, we do site consultations as well.

emits very harmful greenhouse gas emissions. And on those large levels, it makes a really large difference in the environment.

Composting can be very simple but there are a lot of different ways that it can be done depending on how quickly you want it turned over. Are you an

With that being said, composting can cut back

avid gardener and want to use it regularly or just

almost 98% of those emissions and also odors

wanting to keep it out of the landfill and could use

which are associated with landfills. So there’s lots

it once a year? How much money do you want to

a growing food movement

put in it? Does it need to meet certain homeowner

excessively - they might not break down as quickly

requirements for appearance?

as fruits and vegetables.

I try to ask as many questions as possible and

What’s important to understand is most of your

make it as customized as possible so that people

food waste coming from your kitchen is nitrogen

won’t get overwhelmed and will keep doing it.

based, so you’ll need to add equal amounts of

Don’t be intimidated and depending on expectations, it can be as involved or uninvolved as possible.

carbon to that nitrogen. So, whatever you put in as far as your food waste, you want to make sure that you’re adding typically some of the drier materials like leaves, straw, wood chips, different paper

It’s good to have an enclosure that can allow air

products. You just want to make sure that you’re

flow … what all living things need - food, air and

shredding those things up a little bit more.

water. It can be as simple as a pile, a purchased compost bin, or an enclosure you make yourself.

If you’re not going to be super active with mixing it

For backyard composting there are a few

you’re just wanting to divert the food waste, just

limitations, mostly due to odors and time to

use lasagna layering technique. Put down a carbon

breakdown. The general rule you want to think

layer of straw and then food waste, then straw…

about is “if it grows, it goes”. So any natural, organic

that will keep bugs and animals out, keep the smell

based product for the most part you can compost

down and act as a bio-filter.

that.

and working it to break it down more quickly. And

What if I want to keep my food waste out of the landfill but don’t have the space/time/desire to compost it myself? I try to think of different ways people can divert food waste like reaching out to gardening clubs. People who are really avid and geeky about composting they might be interested in taking your food waste. Or find out what a community garden in your area might be doing, some of them have a compost bin. Or you could look into starting one up in your

For typical backyard compost, you usually will

neighborhood.

want to leave meats and dairy out of the equation

Keeping food waste out of the landfill is the

because those animal proteins are hard to break down and you don’t always have the most efficient results. Fruits, veggies, coffee grounds, tea, egg shells, spices. You can do things like nuts and rinds if not

important thing. If you live in the Savannah area, be sure to check out COR Compost’s residential collection program every Saturday at Forsyth Market. For more information visit their website!

COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021

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Matthew and his father Ulious Raiford enjoying Matthew’s apple turnovers which he learned to make from his father.

Photography excerpted from Bress ‘n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth-Generation Farmer. Copyright © 2021 CheFarmer Matthew Raiford and Amy Paige Condon. Photography © 2021 by Siobhán Egan. Reproduced by permission of The Countryman Press, a Division of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.

a growing food movement

Chef and Farmer Matthew Raiford:

Embodying the Diversity of Coastal Georgia’s Cuisine

by LeeAnna Tatum

Though not what most people typically think of when they think of Southern cuisine, Matthew Raiford’s cooking is, in fact, a reflection of Coastal Georgia’s diversity of culinary influences and the vast array of foods that are grown, raised, foraged, hunted and fished for here in Southeast Georgia. Matthew grew up in the kitchens of generations of cooks in his family: his mother, aunts, grandmothers and even his great grandmother. Living on his mother’s family farm, Matthew also grew up deeply rooted in the land and waterways of his ancestors and was always closely connected to his food sources. From his earliest memories of foraging for wild blackberries around the farm to his first job working in the deli/bakery at the local Piggly Wiggly, Matthew was always interested in food. But his path to a culinary career was not certain from the start. “My dad was a baker by trade in the early 50s and 60s and I really wanted to go into cooking right out of high school,” Matthew recalled. “But my dad was like, ‘that ain’t a place for you son’.” (con tinued on page 5 4)

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Matthew explained that while his dad was an

unable to get a job as a baker due to his race,

accomplished professional baker, as a Black man

despite his expertise.

during that time - the kitchen was not a place where he could get ahead. In fact, when the family

Discouraged from pursuing a culinary career

had returned to Georgia in the 70s, his father was

but eager to leave the farm, Matthew joined the military and spent time overseas in Germany and the Middle East. During that time, Matthew sought out new culinary experiences and was exposed to new flavors and cooking techniques. He also enjoyed cooking meals for his fellow servicemen and women who were hungry for some homecooked comfort foods. Even after leaving the military and pursuing an education, Matthew couldn’t get over his desire to cook. So, he eventually ended up in culinary school and hasn’t

looked back since.

Matthew Raiford serving up some Gilliard Farms Lowcountry Boil. You can find the recipe on page 103 of his cookbook. This month, Matthew’s first cookbook is hitting the shelves. Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth-Generation Farmer weaves together recipes and stories drawn from Matthew’s lifetime of culinary experiences. “I wanted to write a cookbook Photography excerpted from Bress ‘n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a SixthGeneration Farmer. Copyright © 2021 CheFarmer Matthew Raiford and Amy Paige Condon. Photography © 2021 by Siobhán Egan. Reproduced by permission of The Countryman Press, a Division of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.

that was indicative of ... Coastal Georgia,” Matthew said. “Because there aren’t a lot of cookbooks

a growing food movement

written about Coastal Georgia or the agriculture

the islands at all,” Matthew explained. “But it’s

that comes off of Coastal Georgia … And if there is,

interesting listening to my family talk now and

it’s really seafood heavy and that’s about it.”

realizing that some of those words that were being used were part of that dialect.”

“I just wanted to cover the farming and how I grew up here Gullah Geechee and how it has shaped my

“Even using the calling through the woods which

tastebuds for food,” Matthew continued. “Those are

is what Nana, my great grandmother … it’s what

some of the most exciting things about doing the

everybody would do,” he continued. “They’d call you

book. And having the name Bress ‘N’ Nyam which

through the woods. Instead of just hollering your

means ‘bless and eat’ in Gullah Geechee just meant

name it would be sung almost and it would carry

everything to me.”

through the woods. You’d hear it and know that it was time to go back home.”

Matthew’s Gullah Geechee heritage is important to him as an adult but as a child, the language and

“A lot of those habits and ways and even the way

culture was just something ingrained in his daily

we grow food here has always been part of that

life.

culture, which is my culture.”

“I was always considered a freshwater Geechee because I lived on the mainland, I didn’t live on

(con tinued on page 56)

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One of the most important things that Matthew hopes readers will take away from his book is that Southern food is much more complex and varied than how it’s usually portrayed. “Southern food is a lot more than just shrimp and grits and collard greens… there’s this massive amount of other things in there,” Matthew asserted. “The first time I fried chicken for an event, I actually had to have someone show me how to fry chicken. I understood the battering and frying part, but I didn’t get how it was supposed to have any flavor with being marinated for a day or two. I was like, I didn’t grow up eating it like that.” 56

On the farm, chickens were kept for their eggs - so, cooking fried chicken was a very rare thing. When it was done, the meat was from an older bird and needed to be tenderized with a marinade. Matthew included a recipe for his Two-Day Fried Chicken. Also contrary to some Southern stereotypes, the cookbook is filled with veggie-centric recipes.

Dispelling the myth that all greens have to be cooked with meat, Matthew’s recipe for Mess O’ Greens (on page 56) “ain’t got no meat in it!” there’s no meat. There’s no meat in the greens,” he reiterated. “It’s funny because my daddy was like, ‘so, you’re

“There are a ton of vegetable recipes in there

going to put a recipe in your cookbook that ain’t got

and that’s not normally what people think of with

no meat in it?’ He did it very like, ‘boy, you’re stupid.’

Southern … when they think of that they think of

And I was like, ‘but daddy we didn’t always have

sides - but I make these the star!”

meat … the meat wasn’t always the star, just a piece of meat. And the meat was usually smoked to give

“One of my running jokes,” Matthew continued, “I

it a smokey flavor. It wasn’t supposed to be meat

have my recipe for Mess of Greens in there - and

and greens.”

a growing food movement

While his dad may have been skeptical about

“I want people to think that there’s a lot to Southern

including a recipe for greens without meat, he

food and I want people to think about Georgia and

was impressed with Matthew’s recipe for apple

think about it in all of its grandeur … Everybody has

turnovers.

a different lens. I wanted to make sure that my book had its own lens. And when people look at

“There’s actually a picture of my dad and I (in

it and start cooking the recipes, I want people to

the book) where he’s actually tasting that apple

think, ‘I’ve never had it this way before!’ I want those

turnover that I made,” Matthew said. “He said, ‘if Ii’d

kinds of conversations,” Matthew said.

known then what i know now, I would have made you go to culinary school.’ I think that was the

Along those lines, Matthew will be joining Southern

biggest joy for me in doing this cookbook … getting

Soil’s team of contributors in order to share his

this approval from my dad.”

insights into Georgia’s diverse food systems. As both a chef and a farmer (or CheFarmer), Matthew

Aside from rethinking what

hopes to be able to offer tips and observations

qualifies as “traditional

soil systems across the State.

Southern food”, Matthew also wants to get people thinking about the bounty and diversity of Georgia agriculture. “I wanted to show all the things that we can eat,” Matthew said. “What is it like to grow fresh herbs, what is it like to have all these wonderful things … We have a super long growing season here on the coast, so I can have early harvest watermelons and late harvest watermelons. I can have pumpkins early in the year and pumpkins at the end of the year.” “I have (a recipe for) rabbit fricassee in there,” Matthew continued, “ and most people aren’t

regarding growing cycles, seasonal produce and

Matthew returned to his family farm near Brunswick in 2011 when his Nana handed over the title to him and his sister Althea. Though the land had lain fallow for about 15 years, they have worked to slowly bring it back into production. This year, rice and Sea Island Red Peas are being grown together in the Reezy-Peezy field. Fruit trees have been planted and wild berries abound. “There’s wild blackberries all over the farm,” Matthew said. “When I was a kid, that used to be the deal - to bring back the most blackberries that we could get so my nana would give us some money. It’s that time of year and I am loving the blackberries and huckleberries that are coming on right now. I’m loving berry life!”

going to expect me to be talking about rabbit. But I have letters between my grandmother and great grandmother that are literally just about rabbits and hunting rabbits.

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Wax myrtle fruit Photo Credit: Ellen Honeycutt

a growing food movement

Native Plant Highlight: Wax Myrtle morella cerifera

By Erin Cork erin.cork@gmail.com

Having lived in the Georgia Piedmont for most of

maintains its role as a parking lot tree in its home

my life, I was familiar with southern wax myrtle as a

range, as well.

specimen species or a hedge occasionally used in formal public landscapes. Rarely could I walk past one of these planted parking lot beauties without plucking and crunching some of the aromatic leaves or stripping a limb of a few frosty grey-blue berries to squish and smell on my walk. Also known as bayberry or southern wax myrtle, its native range stretches from southern New Jersey through much of the coastal plain west to Texas.

General Description Wax myrtle can take the shape of a single-to-manystemmed shrub or small tree, typically around 10 to 20 feet tall. The bark is smooth and light gray, often covered with lichens, and the multiple stems twist and arc, creating shrubby cover from the ground up. Its form is highly variable and can be influenced by site characteristics or strategic pruning.

While it has been introduced beyond its native range, southern wax myrtle (Morella cerifera) is most at home in the sandy soils of the coastal plain, and especially on the Georgia coast where I moved this past year. Here, I now see it in more forms and in more habitats than I would have ever imagined – in freshwater swamps, on dry upland forests, in brackish marsh, delineating boundaries between property lines and untamed forests, and domesticated in more formal gardens and landscapes. It is the most common shrub in longleaf pine-slash pine communities, and it

As screening along driveway Photo Credit: Erin Cork Leaves are glossy yellow-green to olive green and are evergreen, with the duller leaves of last year (con tinued on page 60)

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joined by new, brighter and glossier growth which

grow in its wild, shrubby form, wax myrtle provides

emerges in early spring. Small chartreuse flowers

excellent cover for birds, rabbits, turtles, and other

on both male and female plants bloom as early as

small mammals, reptiles, and amphibians.

March and April, followed by clusters of blue-grey berries which appear in late summer and persist through winter.

In the Garden Wax myrtle is often used as a screening hedge and is an excellent substitute for some of the more commonly planted exotic invasive plant species, such as Asian privets (Ligustrum species) or Autumn olive (Eleagnus species). With its more open structure (particularly when planted in more shaded areas), it can be used on its own as a natural or sculpted hedge, as a part of a mixed hedge, or as a backdrop along borders. Some pruning of lower limbs may be necessary to

Wax myrtle as a formal hedge Photo Credit: William King

allow more diminutive shrubs or wildflowers to fill in the gaps. The light shade of wax myrtle and its tendency to grow arcing stems makes it a good

Wildlife Value While not all birds can digest the waxy coated

pondside planting, but it could also be pruned to accommodate a bird bath or other small water feature.

fruits, wax myrtle’s berries are an important winter food source for many species, including the yellowrumped warbler, kinglets, bobwhite quail, and wild turkey. The plant’s natural growth habit is less dense than many shrubs, and its more open foliage allows filtered light to reach the ground, providing excellent cover, perches, and nesting sites for many small birds. Wax myrtle is a host plant for the red-banded hairstreak butterfly, and it is a plant often used by some of our impressive silk moth species. Scanning the foliage at night with a flashlight is the

Wax myrtles flowering. Photo Credit: Erin Cork

best way to find cocoons or emerging silk moth species of Polyphemus moths, luna moths, and

The waxy coating of the berries was once used to

other large silk moth species. When permitted to

make bayberry candles, and the aromatic oils found

a growing food movement

in the stems and the leaves of the plant make wax myrtle quite flammable. Like pine straw, hollies, and other flammable plants and materials, wax myrtle should be planted at least 30 feet away from wooden structures, including fences or decks.

General Care Wax myrtle will thrive in full sun when allowed to adhere to its natural growth habit, but healthy individuals are also found in part shade and in more interior, shaded forests. Wax myrtle can be limbed up to remove lower branches for a tree-like stature or sheared to achieve a more uniform shape if desired. Mowing along the edge or planting in mulched beds can keep any thicketing tendencies in check. Wax myrtle are hardy plants and can endure tough conditions, including drought, salt, strong winds, periodic flooding, and deer herbivory. Cold hardy for USDA Zones 7-10.

Availability At some nurseries, you may find that only female

Silk moth cocoon on wax myrtle Photo Credit: Erin Cork

wax myrtle plants are available – these are the plants that are most often desired for their blue-

related species, dwarf wax myrtle (Morella pumila),

grey berries. Both male and female plants will

is also commonly available at nurseries. While it is

produce dense clusters of chartreuse flowers in

more rarely observed in natural plant communities,

late winter/early spring, but both male and female

this plant is often incorporated into landscaping

plants are required for fertilization each year. A

where its smaller stature is desired.

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orm w k oo B e

reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF BRESS ‘N’ NYAM: GULLAH GEECHEE RECIPES FROM A SIXTH GENERATION FARMER BY MATTHEW RAIFORD WITH AMY PAIGE CONDON Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth Generation Farmer written by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon takes readers through Raiford’s culinary journey: from a childhood surrounded by good cooks to his military career and exposure to cuisines and food traditions around the world and back to his deep roots on the family farm and Gullah Geechee heritage. 62

“Bress ‘N’ Nyam” is Gullah for “bless and eat” which gets right to the heart of Raiford’s family food traditions. Peppered with personal stories with heaps of cultural and historical references, this cookbook provides a deep look into the cuisine of Coastal Georgia Southern cooking that goes way beyond stereotypical foods like fried chicken (but there’s a 2-day recipe for that too!). Raiford goes back to his roots with recipes like Blackberry Doobie, a cobbler his Nan would make using fresh-picked blackberries foraged from around the family farm; and weaves in recipes and techniques picked up along the way like Snapper on the Half Shell. Organized in categories by their elemental source, the book is divided into sections: earth, water, fire, wind, nectar and spirits. Raiford’s recipes range from rustic

to sophisticated and simple (3-ingredient biscuits) to complicated (how to host a pig roast). Bress ‘N’ Nyam welcomes the reader into Raiford’s personal history with food and provides a valuable perspective into the South’s rich and varied food culture.

a growing food movement

PODCAST 63

Hosted by LeeAnna Tatum

Join me weekly for conversations about all things relating to food and building healthy local food communities! New episodes on Tuesdays!C O M P I L A T I O N

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Possibly a copperhead. Not intended for identification purposes.

Photo by Travis Bugar on Scopio

a growing food movement

In Defense of Snakes

by LeeAnna Tatum

Even just the mention, let alone the sight, of them

experience with their extensive reptile collection as

generates a strong reaction - I’m talking about

well. He has also led hundreds of demonstrations

snakes!

and talks over the years, both with visitors to the Center and audiences across the US.

Love them or hate them, there is little room for ambivalence where this reptile is concerned. And

“The Wildlife Center exists because we want to

while some people are fond of saying, “the only

put into context man’s relationship with the natural

good snake is a dead snake,” I’d like to help make

world around him,” Steve explained. “If I had to pick

the case in defense of this often maligned creature.

one species or one animal of which we have grossly misinterpreted their role in the ecosystem it would

Georgia is home to a rich biodiversity of native

be snakes.”

snakes which includes 46 native species, of which only six are venomous. Snakes are common in woodlands, parks and backyards throughout the State. When we engage with the outdoor environment,

Why We Fear Snakes and Why We Really Shouldn’t

chances are good that there are snakes nearby.

Steve hypothesized that we have a cultural bias

If you find that thought disturbing, take comfort

against snakes that likely stems from a number of

in knowing that chances are also good that you’ll

sources including the Bible (depicting Satan as a

never even know they’re there.

serpent) and also an inherited fear of venomous snakes that at one time was quite legitimate.

We as humans also have a tendency to fear (or hate) that which we do not know or understand. So,

While a snake bite from a venomous snake native to

let’s take a few minutes out of our busy day to get

North America is rarely fatal today (approximately

to know a little more about our reptilian neighbors!

5 per year), due to advances in modern medicine and the rapidity with which it can be administered,

I recently sat down with Steve Hein, Founder

it wasn’t all that long ago when a snake bite could

and Executive Director of the Center for Wildlife

very well be deadly. And a fear of snakes in general,

Education at Georgia Southern University. Though

if you couldn’t differentiate between venomous and

Steve’s expertise is birds of prey, as the director

nonvenomous, was indeed a healthy fear.

of the Center for 29 years, he has gained a lot of (con tinued on page 66)

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Speaking of his grandfather’s generation, Steve mentioned that most people could readily identify one snake in particular and it was viewed as almost Photo by Pablo Nidam on Scopio

sacrilege to kill one. “The Eastern Kingsnake was given its name as the king of snakes because it’s immune to venomous snakes and it’s a constrictor. The name speaks to how we see it, people know not to kill the black snake with the white stripes as if it’s out there hunting the venomous snakes for the survival of mankind!” As compared to five deaths per year from venomous snake bits, an average of 40 people die each year in the US as a result of dog bites. As Steve put it, “That which we call our ‘best friend’ is

A rattlesnake. Maybe an Eastern Diamondback, but probably a Western Diamondback (Not for identification purposes). to guess, would you think of a particular race? Which gender? What about age group? Would our snake bite demographic group trend younger or

what we’re most likely to be bitten by.”

older? What about bite location? Ankle, maybe?

Here are a few fun facts about things more likely

individuals in this illustrious group would likely be

to kill you this year than a snake bite. You are nine

sober? Or intoxicated?

times more likely to die from a lightning strike than a snake bite (this is less of a fun fact when lightning is striking nearby as I’m typing this). You are nine times more likely to die from a bee, hornet or wasp sting than a snake bite.

What about the hand? And finally, would you think

“The context says it’s not random,” Steve explained, “statistics show the most common victim of snake bites to be: young, white, male and bitten on the hand. When they rush them to the hospital and they’re doing the tox screen, alcohol levels are significant.”

Who’s More Dangerous? Steve also points out that snake bites are not as random as we might think. There are actually some pretty specific demographics that are associated with this particular type of medical emergency. Knowing that, pause here for just a moment before reading further and consider what you think this group of likely candidates might be. If you had

“If you’re looking for a dangerous animal,” Steve concludes, “it’s a young white male who has been drinking.” We’re not looking to pick on young white males here, just to make the point that the average person being bit by a snake is not someone who happens to be minding their own business and just walking down a wooded path or working in their garden. Most of the time, snake bites don’t just happen.

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Snakes bite when they have run out of other

that will not end up being a food source for them

options for defending themselves.

(this is called a dry bite).

Snakes are both prey and predator. Their colors

If you want to coexist on this planet with snakes

and patterns work well to camouflage them and

and not get bit, it’s pretty simple - leave them alone.

this works well for them in both of their roles. It keeps them hidden from what they’re hunting but it also keeps them hidden from the things that are hunting them (most often this would be something like the Red-tailed hawk). Rattlesnakes have the added benefit of a rattle to help them warn off those who might inadvertently cause them harm (like, you know, young white males with a little liquid courage). Their very last line of defense is to bite. Even then, they can control the amount of venom they release and will often not waste their venom on something

How To Properly React to a Snake “In 29 years of being on the road talking to countless audiences from federal judges to the highest socio economics to the very impoverished… you cannot distinguish between the responses … I ask the audience, ‘what do people do when they encounter snakes?’ and the response is always, ‘scream, run and try to kill it!’.” Our ingrained responses are essentially all wrong. (con tinued on page 68)

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“We scream and the snake doesn’t have ears … run

snake, you do not have the right to kill other

from them and they’re one of the slowest animals

species. It is actually illegal in the State of Georgia

on land moving about 2 - 3 miles per hour for most

to intentionally kill any of the 40 non venomous

snakes … you can skip away faster than they can

species.)

follow… and they have no reason to come after you anyway,” Steve explains.

The correct response when you encounter a snake? “Just stop, take two steps back, and walk away; and we’re all going to be just fine,” Steve assured.

Photo by David Schliepp on Scopio

Why We Should Appreciate Snakes Rather Than Fear Them “There have been a lot of studies done that show how well adapted snakes are to act as a control mechanism for rodents,” Steve said. Nonvenomous Green Rough Snake (photo for visual interest only, not for identification).

He went on to discuss the role of rodents in spreading things like the bubonic plague which was far more deadly than any of the most potent

As to our instincts of thinking the only good snake is a dead snake, many studies have shown that snakes perform vital roles within our ecosystems and should be appreciated not annihilated. And as previously covered, attempting to kill a snake is often the biggest contributing factor leading to a snake bite. “It doesn’t take a whole lot of education to do what is right by everybody and to keep you, specifically the human, out of harm’s way,” Steve said. “The worst thing you can do is go grab the broom, the knife, the hatchet.. It really starts going south at that point.” (Also, keep in mind that while you do have the right to protect yourself and others by killing a venomous

venomous snakes could ever hope to be. Though it was the fleas carrying the disease, it was the rats that enabled its pervasiveness. “Rats were thrown over castle walls to unleash the deadly plague and kill as many people as possible, they didn’t toss venomous snakes over the walls,” Steve joked. The danger of venomous snakes is not as grave as what we think it is, conversely snakes can go anywhere a rodent can go, so they provide a great benefit. “Something like 25%, maybe even higher globally, of the foods and grains that are put in place to feed humans are consumed by rodents before they ever even come to market,” Steve explained.

Photo provided by Kristan Fretwell, Hunter Cattle Co.

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And this study from the University of Nebraska puts a number on that financial cost - just for that one State alone! “The University of Nebraska estimates that mice cause $20 million in damage annually in Nebraska alone. Snakes can slowly prowl to hunt, able to enter burrows and tight spaces where other predators like cats or hawks can’t go, and traps can’t be set.”

Snake Appreciation on the Farm 101 with Kristan Fretwell I also had the opportunity to talk with Kristan Fretwell of Hunter Cattle Farm in Brooklet. Kristan is a teacher turned farmer who still likes to teach! Instead of being confined to a classroom, Kristan teaches people who visit her farm about farm life

and where their food comes from. She also takes every opportunity to help educate people about the importance of snakes! “I always encourage people to familiarize themselves with snakes,” Kristan said. “If you can identify the venomous ones, I think it will ease your fears. So many people are scared of these little things that could not hurt you even if they tried. And they do so much good for our environment.” “Having a farm, having rats and rodents getting into feed and destroying feed is way worse than having snakes,” Kristan continued. “Second of all, most snakes we see … I would say 80% maybe more … are good (nonvenomous) snakes.” When nonvenomous snakes find their way to (con tinued on page 7 0)

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places on the farm where they cause some havoc, like the chicken coops, Kristan simply removes them and puts them where they can earn their keep by eating rodents or in areas where a venomous snake has been spotted. “We definitely lose some eggs to snakes,” she said, “but I’d much rather not have rat pee and poop and rats getting into all the feed bags. It’s kind of like our payment to them for keeping the place rodent free.” “When and if we ever see any venomous snakes, that is probably where we end up concentrating any of the other snakes that we find on the property, especially king snakes,” she added. DISCLAIMER: This is not a “how-to” guide. No one is suggesting that the recommended course of action is to pick up and move random snakes. Kristan and her family have educated themselves on snakes

Forest Fretwell (15) of Hunter Cattle pictured with a king snake found on the farm.

and learned to readily identify the six varieties of

necessary for them to remove the snakes from the

venomous snakes that call Georgia home. This has

chicken coops to protect their livestock.

been vital information for them to learn since they do come in regular contact with snakes and it is

“I’ve found for the kids and me, It’s a lot easier to identify the (venomous) ones in order to know if it’s safe or not.” “My boys were in the yard and they

Photo provided by Kristan Fretwell, Hunter Cattle Co.

came across a Kingsnake eating a Copperhead,” Kristan recalled. “It was one of the craziest coolest things I’ve ever witnessed. And I thought to myself - people who are just killing all snakes would kill good ones that are helping get rid of the bad ones.” “We definitely are snake advocates because of that,” she continued. “I

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also recently read that there’s an insane amount of ticks that snakes eat every year that are on the rodents. They’re helpful all the way around and most of them don’t want anything to do with you.” “You still need to be smart,” she continued. “I can’t tell you how many snakes … every single rat snake we caught from out of our chicken pens, we caught with our hands and relocated them somewhere we wanted them. They’re very docile.” “Every now and then you’ll get one that’s a little sassier,” she concluded after a pause. In the 18 years that they have been on the farm, there has only been one negative encounter with a venomous snake when one of their dogs was bit. The dog survived with no adverse effects. he was starting to put his nose to the ground to

Let’s Get Real - Bites Do Happen Ok, so let’s get real! Sometimes encounters with snakes happen, even though they are rare. And sometimes, though rare, those encounters end in a bite from a venomous snake. I had such an experience the week that I started

investigate what had bit him. Not wanting him to get bit again, I immediately called him over to me and he came. My first instinct was to go over there myself and look and see if I could identify what had bitten him. But thankfully, I decided to prioritize getting him the care he needed as quickly as possible.

working on this article.

The initial bite location began swelling immediately,

I was outside in my own yard with my dog, Blue.

he was in some distress and drooled excessively on

Though the dogs have a fenced section of my yard

the drive to the vet (though admittedly it was hard

that I keep cut short, I had Blue out with me in the

to tell because he always drools excessively when

orchard section of my yard, where let’s just say,

he goes for rides).

nature was given the final say.

there was a little blood, but not much. He acted as if

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So, of course, Blue chose to go in the high grass to take care of his business. At that point, I saw him react as if he’d been bitten by something and

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It turned out that he had been bit by a Copperhead.

There are lots of ways that we were fortunate in

I got him to his vet quickly and he received excellent

this encounter.

care including an antivenom, pain meds and IV fluids which helped his body flush out the toxins

So, if you, someone you are with, or a pet gets bit by

more quickly. He stayed overnight for observation

a snake: DO seek medical or veterinary care quickly.

and came home the next morning with absolutely

Time does matter. DON’T attempt to catch or kill the

no long term effects.

snake for identification purposes. As Blue’s vet, DVM Jeremy Faris told me, they do not want or need to

So, yes, unpleasant things can happen with

see the snake that bites your pet - don’t put yourself

venomous snakes.

at risk and make a bad situation that much worse.

I did not enjoy the experience at all and neither did Blue (poor guy didn’t stand still to poop for nearly a week). I also came home after leaving Blue at the vet that

How to Identify a Venomous Snake (Hint: Don’t Bother!)

day and worked for the next two days to cut back

There are ways to identify a venomous snake from

the grass and clear some land to make more of my

a non-venomous snake. With only six venomous

yard less appealing for that Copperhead and others

snakes in Georgia and 40 non-venomous snakes, as

that might be lurking nearby.

Kristan mentioned, it’s simpler to learn to ID those six.

I did not however try to seek and destroy. I also did

“The triangular shaped head is quite readily

not and will not completely clean up and sanitize my

apparent,” Steve said of the venomous species.

yard. I actually do want snakes. I don’t even mind if some of them are venomous. What I do want to do

“Also, the eye has an elliptical pupil rather than a

is discourage them from wanting to hang out in the

round eye - imagine a cat eye versus a dog eye. But

same spaces that my dogs and I hang out.

I would suggest never to use that distinguishing factor. Because if you’re looking that closely at a

It’s also important to note that Blue is a very

snake’s eye, you’re getting way too close and we

big dog. Copperheads are the least venomous

call that natural selection,” Steve said with a laugh.

snakes and the most treatable when it comes to encounters with dogs. Things could have been very

“But the triangular shape and also the size of

different had Blue been a smaller breed, been bitten

the head relative to the body,” he continued. “The

on his chest and not his foot, and/or been bitten by

constrictors and the snakes like Coachwhips and

a rattlesnake that released a full load of venom.

Black Racers … any long, skinny snake, for the most part, is not going to be venomous. If it looks like your arm where it has a big head, kind of a little neck and then quickly becomes a stout-bodied snake - probably a good chance it’s venomous.”

a growing food movement “We have one exception to that which is the Coral

Center, one of the things that is most gratifying …

snake, which is identified by its color pattern: ‘red

are the people who send me photos on the phone

touches yellow, kill a fellow; red touches black,

to identify snakes and tell me that because of the

poison lack’ … but we don’t want to remember

Wildlife Center, they are not killing them,” Steve said.

rhymes - just leave it alone!” he concluded.

“That’s a big takeaway!” “And while I don’t ever reprimand anyone,” he

Conclusion - The Only Good Snake is a Living Snake

continued, “when I’m asked to identify a snake with its head cut off, I realize that there’s still work to be done.” Let’s continue the work in defense of snakes!

When it comes to snakes, there is no reason to fear or hate them across the board. Snakes, even venomous ones, are not sitting

If you want to learn more and get up close up and personal at no risk to your health, visit the Center for

around plotting your demise! In fact, they simply

Wildlife Education at Georgia Southern University!

want to be left alone. Their color and pattern makes

For an informative brochure on Georgia’s snakes and

them blend in to their surroundings, not so they can

some definitive information on identifying the venomous

spring out at unsuspecting humans, but so that you

species, visit Georgia’s DNR site here.

won’t know that they’re there at all.

For more things that are more likely to kill you than a

If you do see a snake, stop, take two steps back

snake, visit this site.

and walk away! It really is as simple as that. “Being reflective of my 29 years at the Wildlife

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Small Farm

Spotlight

Jones Creek Farm located in Midway is a small

to do something about it and do something for

family-run farm in its second year of operation

the community. Midway doesn’t have a farm so I

producing high-end soaps, tea blends and seasonal

wanted to start something there because of that.”

produce. “I’ve always been into organically grown produce, I Stephanie Jones runs the farm with her husband

hate that everything you buy at the store is so full

and four children.

of chemicals so that’s kind of what spurred me into this. I wanted to produce as much food as possible

“When I started the farm,” Stephanie explained, “I

- I wanted to be self-sufficient and I wanted to do it

wanted to do things as sustainably as possible. I

in a responsible and resourceful way.”

was frustrated with our food system and I wanted 74

Jacob and Stephanie Jones Photos in this article are provided by Stephanie Jones

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Originally from Portland, Oregon, Stephanie grew

it is so nutrient-dense, I wanted to learn how to

up with gardens as both her grandparents and

grow it here - where it’s not supposed to grow. We

her father were avid gardeners. But since moving

have about 100 trees so far and I want to grow that

to Midway, she has had to learn a lot on her own

number to 600-800 trees. I want to get to the point

through trial and error.

where I can harvest 200 trees every single week and have it on a four week rotation. That’s what I’m

Stephanie currently produces about 30 varieties

working up to.”

of high-end soaps on the farm which is currently the main source of funding for much of the farm’s

In addition to moringa, they also grow hibiscus for

infrastructure. The couple is currently renovating

their teas, of which there are four different blends.

a shed that they plan to use as a commercially licensed kitchen as they have quickly outgrown the limitations of a cottage license. But the thing that really drives Stephanie is the moringa plant!

“The tea blends kind of just happened by accident,” Stephanie explained. “I was making the hibiscus tea blends for myself and I started posting pictures of the hibiscus plants growing and they were beautiful and people started getting excited about it. I’m like whoa I might need more than three plants then “Moringa is my passion project,” she said. “The

because I want some for myself!”

main focus that has started me on this journey is the fascination with the moringa plant. Because

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The ingredients for the teas are grown on the farm

“My goal is to grow 100% of the ingredients for our

as much as possible and they are working toward

teas here on the farm,” she continued. “We’ve even

being able to grow all their own ingredients a few

started with black tea plants - bulong, green, grey

years down the line.

tea, black tea - it’s all grown from the same plant, it’s just different based on how it’s harvested and processed. So we’re experimenting growing black tea plants on the farm so hopefully in the next couple of years we’ll actually have tea.” It was also important for Stephanie to be able to provide fresh produce grown without the use of chemicals for herself and her community in Midway. So, a half acre garden plot is dedicated to annual produce like tomatoes, peppers, squash and herbs.

“The mint, moringa and hibiscus we grow 76

ourselves,” Stephanie said. “Some things I’m not growing here on the farm yet, so I do have to source some of the ingredients for some of the tea blends. One of my favorite blends is the hibiscus raspberry but I can’t produce enough of the raspberry leaves because of the heat.”

The farm also partners with local honey producer, Poet’s Blend. The partnership allows the bees to benefit from 20 acres of land that is not being treated with chemicals and all the plants that grow there, while the farm benefits from having lots of happy pollinators. And, of course, there’s the honey! Due to Covid-related shutdowns to markets last

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year and some lingering unknowns regarding which markets would re-open this year, the family is focusing on growing their farm in 2021. Expanding the space that can be used for planting and preparing their new kitchen and onsite shop, so they will be prepared for growth in 2022. Also on the farm is a small fruit orchard and food forest which will become a source for local fruit in the community including: peaches, figs and mullberries.

Nathan, Alexya, Alison, and Morgan

To shop for soaps and teas visit their website and be sure to follow the farm’s progress on Facebook.

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Chef’s Table: The Wyld Dock Bar (Savannah, Georgia) 78

Article by: LeeAnna Tatum

When you bite into a slice of watermelon and are blown away by the flavor that is completely elevated with the addition of a few basic ingredients - you know you’re in for a treat for the rest of your meal! For Executive Chef and co-owner of The Wyld Dock Bar, Tony Seichrist, this dish (called “sliced watermelon” on the menu) epitomizes his approach to food - source great ingredients, treat them simply and let them shine! Seichrist, an Atlanta native, learned to appreciate

up hunting and fishing which helped him develop

quality ingredients cooked well from his earliest

a close connection to his food sources and an

childhood experiences. He learned to cook at a

appreciation for good food.

young age from his mother who often utilized fresh ingredients from the garden. He also grew

Siechrist was 20 when his love of cooking took him

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to a professional kitchen where he offered to work

“We came down here and fell in love with it. It has a

for free for the chance to learn.

lot of challenges based on the location, you can see the ocean is about three feet away,” Siechrist said,

“I went and found the best chef I could while I was

gesturing to the water. “And it ends up in our front

in Athens - Hugh Acheson who is pretty damn

yard a lot. I pulled an eel out of my office once,” he

famous now - and I said I’ll work for you for free

said with a laugh, “… it was still alive.”

until you hire me. He said ok and about a month in, he hired me!”

“It’s a strange place to have a restaurant,” he continued, “but it’s amazing. We’re in our

In addition to working at a number of top

environment quite literally. This is more like a boat

restaurants in Georgia, Siechrist spent a year in Italy

that doesn’t move than it is a building at this point.

at culinary school.

We have a lot of fun challenges like hurricanes, but

“After that, I was the Head Chef at Greyfield Inn

it’s totally worth it. I wouldn’t trade it for anything!”

for a bit, on Cumberland Island, and that kind of

Due to the location, the vibe is decidedly casual

reignited my love for the lowcountry,” Siechrist

(dining is almost exclusively outdoors with the

explained. “When I was kid, we visited Fripp Island a lot and I always loved Beaufort and all the coastal towns and it felt like a great place.” When The Wyld Dock location became available,

Siechrist and his business partner Brad Syfan were actively looking for a restaurant location. They purchased, renamed, rebranded and revamped the restaurant (formerly Bonna Bella) about seven years ago. exception of a very small indoor dining space) and seafood is featured prominently on the seasonallyinfluenced menu. “Our clientele is really diverse,” Siechrist explained, “we get a little bit of everybody, because our menu is super laid back and super approachable, I don’t think we fall into any kind of particular category. We do a lot of the work of a fine-dining restaurant, but I don’t think we feel that way. You can get off your boat and walk in without your shoes on, so we’re sort of this weird hodgepodge of fine dining and (con tinued on page 80)

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very casual dining and I think that speaks to literally

“What that means for us - we take responsibility for

everybody.”

our own products as much as possible … we do as much of our own sourcing as we can.” “We have a great pork producer down here, Brandon from Grassroots, we love him to death - he does a great job,” Siechrist continued. “I think we buy John of Comfort Farms out of ground beef all the time. They work with dairies and it’s dairy farm beef - it’s a totally different product. The quality of that beef (coming from an older animal) is very different, it has a lot more beefy flavor … For our purposes, it’s ground and it makes an excellent beefy burger ... For us it’s perfect.”

Siechrist is committed to sourcing the best ingredients he can find and puts in a lot of work to establish relationships with local producers and purveyors. 80

“It’s a lot of legwork, more than anything, that is required if you want to source locally,” he explained. “Obviously seafood is our prime thing, so we spend a lot of time working with local fishermen, local purveyors that are sourcing locally. We get our shrimp from Dubberly’s right off the boat.” Having those local sources served the restaurant well during the food shortages experienced elsewhere during 2020. “We had our sources stabilized when everyone else was freaking out,” Siechrist said. “That wasn’t why we sourced locally but it was a happy accident. A lot of how I feel about big food is that it’s sort of dangerous in a way - it destabilizes us ... and makes everyone reliant on the same systems and that’s inherently dangerous.” “I love the idea of having that food security by

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having these

Southern Soil’s Art Director, Kelly White. We went

well-diversified

on a weekday (thankfully cooler than average)

systems and

afternoon in June. With a fan and a breeze and a

having a lot

beautiful view of the water from the back deck, we

of people to

enjoyed an array of items from the menu.

call on, and they also

I already mentioned the watermelon (which is not

have a better

something I would have expected to earn a mention

product.”

at all, if I’m being honest). Everything was very well prepared with a few simple ingredients and great

“Our

attention to detail.

philosophy here is to

I especially enjoyed the special of the day which

get the best

was a whole fried flounder that was absolutely

product we

delicious. The presentation of the whole fish was

can and do as little to it as possible. And there you

beautiful and appetizing and it tasted every bit as

go! That’s kind of who we are.”

good as it looked!

I visited The Wyld Dock Bar with my sister and

Kelly, who has tried fish tacos from quite a few (con tinued on page 82)

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Savannah area restaurants, thought the Local Adobo Fish Tacos we had were the best she’d ever eaten. Prices are very reasonable and the menu is not complicated, making it a great spot for a casual lunch or an evening out. The views are great and there’s a sense that the fresh seafood practically jumps straight from the water to your plate … after a short and much appreciated detour through the kitchen, of course! And as the name implies, there is a well-stocked bar to help quench your thirst!

how you arrive at the Wyld Dock Bar - you’ll be glad you’re there. For more information including their menu with pricing, check out their website.

The Wyld is not a place you’ll likely stumble on by accident, so if you’re there it’s most likely that you arrived on purpose! That’s not to say that it’s hard to find or out of the way, just not on the beaten path. Which makes it almost have the feel of a private club - if you’re there, you must be in the know! Accessible by land or sea, no matter

Southern

SOIL

a growing food movement

The State of the Magazine Follow our progress!

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movement

by LeeAnna Tatum It’s hard to believe, but we are halfway into our fourth year of publication for Southern Soil! Our first issue was published in 2018 and we have produced 18 more issues since then. Let me start by introducing myself. My name is LeeAnna Tatum and I am the founder, editor and publisher of Southern Soil. I also write much of the content, manage our social media, sell advertising … well, you get the idea. But by no means am I doing this alone. My talented sister, Kelly White, is a graphic designer with a couple of decades of experience to her credit. She is more than simply the Art Director for

Southern Soil; she has been incredibly supportive of my dream and my vision, and more importantly, she has brought her own passion to the business with her commitment to helping small business owners build their brand identity. I was also very fortunate to meet with Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser in the early stages of developing the magazine. She has been such an enthusiastic supporter since that very first day and I’m so grateful for the voice she brings to the local food conversation. When I first approached her about the possibility (con tinued on page 8 4)

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of writing for the magazine, I told her that I needed someone to fill the “fun extrovert” void in the content that I knew I would never be able to fill! And she has done a great job of doing that over the years. I have also really enjoyed the collaboration with the wonderful people of the Coastal Plains Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. They have put in a lot of effort to share with us their knowledge and appreciation for our local plant life. I’ve learned so much through their articles and I always look forward to reading them.

I’m so grateful to have had a number of fantastic contributors who have each brought their own unique perspective to the table and have enriched the conversation immensely. Thank you to each of you! Though Southern Soil is not yet financially sustainable (it is not earning enough advertising revenue to cover the annual expenses including any salaries), we continue to bring the stories of our local food systems because of the support of our faithful advertisers! I cannot thank them enough for the support they have shown over the years. Not only helping this fledgling small business, but also paying it forward by helping so many other small businesses in our communities get the attention they deserve through our articles and content.

The Sentient Bean in Savannah, Halyards Restaurant Group on St Simons, Way Green in Waycross and my local bank, The Claxton Bank came on board as advertisers when we were just getting off the ground and were building our audience from scratch. Georgia Sea Grill, Brighter Day and Down South House and Home have been amazing in their support as well. And our 2021 feature article sponsors are awesome: The Salt Table, Exclusive Engravings and Longwood Plantation. For every business that placed even one ad with us over the years, know that it has made an impact and we are grateful! We hope it was a positive and prosperous experience for you. If you have a business in the area (we cover 46 counties), I would love to discuss advertising opportunities with you and let you know how we can help you connect with some pretty awesome conscientious consumers who love supporting local businesses! By advertising with us, you not only promote your own business but you are also helping other small businesses here in Southeast Georgia and you’re making a positive influence on the local economy and the local environment. I truly believe it’s a win-win-win arrangement, because a stronger, more sustainable community benefits us all. It has been my privilege to meet, interview, get to know and work with

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some truly remarkable people over the past three and a half years and to get a good look at our local food systems. When I was first looking into starting this magazine, I honestly didn’t know if I would find enough to write about to fill one issue! But here I am well into my fourth year and I find that nearly every encounter opens the door to another avenue of discovery. It’s easy to get discouraged here in Southeast Georgia when it comes to local food. Many of us (certainly including myself in this) live in rural areas where fresh local food is hard to find. Conventional farming is still King here and it is evident at every turn.

own backyards. In Southeast Georgia, we can grow blueberries almost without even trying. We have access to a vast array of seafood right off our shores. Our long growing season makes us vulnerable to weeds and pests but also provides ample temperate weather for growing food all year long. And pasture-raised animals thrive in our climate (with adequate accommodations). The pandemic brought many flaws within the US food system to light and made people sit up and take notice. Many, for the first time in their lives, started looking at where their food actually comes from and weren’t too happy with what they saw. And many turned to local supplies when their usual sources fell through. While some of those people simply returned to shopping as usual once supply lines were restored, others who had experienced local food for the first time out of necessity have chosen to continue sourcing locally. (con tinued on page 86)

Commercial chicken houses, row after row of commodity crops, few grocery stores, even fewer farmers’ markets. People looking at you like you might just be from Mars if you mention words like “organic”, “sustainable” or “pasture raised.” But I want you to know that you should take heart! There is hope. There are more people than you probably imagine that are out here everyday in your communities working hard to improve our local food. People who, just like you, know that there is a better way to bring food to the table. People who also understand the unique and critical connection between food, body, spirit and the soil itself. Over the years, I have learned that we have an amazingly diverse food system right here in our

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I honestly believe that the more people know about our current industrialized system and the more they learn about how different some of our local farmers are doing things, the more they will choose to support farms that are using sustainable, regenerative and humane methods. And that’s why I continue to do what I do. To educate and encourage consumers to think about the real-world consequences that their food purchases have. And to encourage those working hard to change our food system that the work they are doing is not in vain and they are not alone! But Southern Soil was never intended to be a one way street. It’s meant to be a platform - a table, if you will - to gather people together to have important conversations about food and sustainability. This is where you come in!

I feel that in many ways, we are right on target where I would want us to be. We have established ourselves in Southeast Georgia and are putting out quality content and growing our audience every day. Which is great! But I want more. I want more engagement. I want more input. I want more give and take.

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I want Southern Soil to go from being a good source of information, to being an essential tool in the growing local food movement. That’s what Southern Soil has always been about for me - growing the local food movement! That’s why I have included on our website a directory of local sustainable farms. I use the term “sustainable” to describe any farm that is not using chemical fertilizers/pesticides/herbicides, not engaging in confined animal feeding operations, using humane husbandry methods with livestock, and working toward improving the life and health of the soil on which they farm. Some of these farms are certified by different organizations, some are not. Some refer to themselves as regenerative or organic or sustainable. Some use integrated pest control or hydroponic growing systems or certified organic inputs, or integration of livestock. But they all are committed to growing food that is healthier for our

bodies and for the earth than what our conventional farming is doing. And I’m all for that. As a consumer myself, I wanted to create the website that I was looking for. I wanted ONE place where I could find farms near me that were producing the kind of foods I wanted to eat. But what I found was that I had to look through lots of different websites because the sites that listed farms only listed the farms that were members of their organization. An organization those farms had to pay to be a part of. And as a consumer, I was not interested in what membership fees a farm could afford. And as a champion of small businesses, I was not interested in creating yet another site that would require fees in order to be included.

(con tinued on page 88)

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So, our directory exists to help consumers find farms near them that are doing their best to grow great food without causing harm to (and in fact most often helping) the environment, using humane animal husbandry practices, and refraining from the use of harmful chemicals. I also wanted a site that would help me find restaurants that source their foods from the same kinds of farms that I do. So, I included them as well! I feel like this is one area of Southern Soil that has not been utilized to its fullest potential. I would like this directory to be comprehensive and to stay up to date. For this, I need your help! I am just one person and can’t possibly discover all the farms and restaurants that should be listed on this directory. So, please feel free to contact me and let me know if there is a place that should be added or perhaps that doesn’t need to be included any longer.

That about sums up where we are! Where are we headed? Look for us to continue our coverage of local farms and restaurants and sustainable businesses! We are definitely growing and we are excited to continue to reach more people and share more perspectives. Here are a few things that you can do (right now!) that won’t cost you a dime and will help us tremendously as we work hard to help grow our local food movement! 1. Go to our homepage! If you have not already signed up for our email list, you should be prompted to do so (if not, there is a “subscribe” link that you can click on). You will NOT be spammed by us with loads of emails. By the time I have written and published the magazine, I’m all wrote out (written out? Writ out?) … I’m done. I am trying to work up to sending out two

emails per month, right now I send out about 6 per year. I will not be flooding your inbox. 2. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram 3. ENGAGE on Facebook and Instagram. Unless you yourself run a business and must administer social media accounts, you may not be aware that it has become increasingly difficult for small businesses to communicate with their followers on social media. I won’t go into all the details, but here’s the takeaway - if you don’t engage with a page (i.e. react to posts by “liking” “loving” … yada, yada; comment on posts; or share posts) you will stop seeing posts from that page on your newsfeed. Even if you have liked and followed that page - the content will simply not make it into your life unless you actually go to that page and look at it intentionally. So here’s what I do when I’m scrolling .... I react to pretty much everything I see in my newsfeed that was posted by a small business that I know. I do that because I know it helps them reach more people and it costs me absolutely nothing but the move of a finger on a screen. 4. SHARE our magazine links. If you enjoy the content we offer in our digital magazine, please share it! There is a chance that a friend or family member will also get something good out of it and it helps us get the word out and increase our audience. And it’s FREE. 5. Provide feedback! I’d love to hear from you. I’d like to know if you like what you’re getting. I’d like to know if you’d like to get something a little different. Do you have a great story idea? Let me know. Do you yourself have something important to say? Let me know. I’m an introvert, so I don’t often say “the more, the merrier”; but in this case I do! The more input, the better.

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The more voices we can have at the table, the better the conversation. Add your voice! 6. If you have a brick and mortar location or regularly set up a booth at farmers’ markets or pop-up markets and would like to share Southern Soil with your customers, please send me an email and request some information cards. I will happily get some to you!

If you read the magazine and would like to help financially, please consider donating the amount of your favorite print subscription or entertainment service subscription. If we had even $10 from

everyone who reads the magazine, it would make a tremendous impact on our ability to continue this work. I’ve established a GoFundMe account to make it simple to donate, but if you’d prefer donating with a different method, please send us an email: info@ southernsoil.org.

Thank you so much for being a part of this journey!

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Chickasaw plum flowers appear in early spring. Photo: Heather Brasell

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Native Plant Highlight: Chickasaw Plum prunus angustifolia

By Mary Alice Applegate maapple@mac.com

How many of you remember picking and eating

or mountain cherry. A long-lived perennial, it can

wild plums growing on the road side in early

grow up to 25 feet tall and produces suckers

summer? Most likely, you were enjoying this tart

to form dense thickets. The leaves are simple,

native treat!

alternate, having blades with acute tips, up to 2.4” long, by .8” wide. The margins are finely

Chickasaw plum / Prunus angustifolia is a

serrated and each tooth has a tiny red gland on

popular plant for developing wildlife habitat,

the tip.

but it also is a favorite for making wine, jellies and preserves. This species is one of several

The plant was cultivated by the Chickasaw

native wild plums that you see in thickets along

Indians and other indigenous peoples who

roadsides and overgrown fields.

consumed it fresh or dried it for winter, long before colonists arrived. In William Bartram’s

The taste may be too tart and acidic to be really

travels through the southeastern U.S. in the late

enjoyed in their raw state, but you can make a

18th century, he wrote that “he never saw the

beautiful and tasty bright red jelly using simple

Chickasaw plum wild in the forests but always in

recipes found on the internet. Real aficionados

old deserted Indian plantations.” He hypothesized

may make wine using some minimal wine-

that the Chickasaw Indians brought it from the

making equipment and ingredients.

Southwest beyond the Mississippi River. Flowers appear in early spring, before the leaves.

Description The Chickasaw plum is a deciduous shrub or small tree in the Rosaceae (rose) family. It is also commonly known as sand plum, sandhill plum,

Flowers have five petals and are bisexual, about 1/2” in diameter, white, in umbels of 2-4 flowers. The branches are thorny and slender. The fruit forms yellow or red drupes which are round and 1/4” to 1/2” in diameter. They mature in early (con tinued on page 92)

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summer and are edible though they contain

an acid pH, but will grow in a wide range of

a large stone. It should be noted that though

soil types. It can be propagated by seed, the

poison severity is low - the stems, leaves and

harvest of suckers, and by cuttings. Cuttings

seeds contain cyanide and should not be eaten.

taken from semi-hardwood and softwood in summer are the easiest to root. Germination of most seeds requires cold stratification.

Benefits in Home Landscape Though they are part of the rural landscape in much of the southern and south central United States, you may consider planting one as a specimen or several for an informal hedge, windbreak, or for erosion control. To keep the plant in check in a small space, prevent unwanted

When ripened, Chickasaw plum fruit can be eaten fresh 92

spread by removing the suckers.

or made into jellies, preserves or other desserts. Photo: John Ruter, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

Its white flowers are beautiful in the spring. Insects and disease may occasionally attack this species,

Native Habitat

but are not a

Habitats (in USDA zones 5a - 8b) include open

serious problem

woodlands, woodland edges, forest openings, savannas, prairies, plains, meadows, pastures, fence rows and roadsides. In full sun, it will be denser and fuller and will colonize more thickly. In part shade, it will be more airy and will colonize more loosely.

in conservation settings. Commercial plantings of plum may require the control of the primary insect pest,

Basic Care Chickasaw plum prefers loose, sandy soil and uses little water, once established. It prefers

plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar ).

Chickasaw plum flowers appear in early spring. Photo: Heather Brasell

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Chickasaw Plum is a thicket-forming small tree with thorny side branches. Photo: Karan Rawlins, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

References Kirckman, L. K., Brown, C. L., and Leopold, D. L., 2018. Native Trees of the Southeast: An Identification Guide. 291 pp. Timber Press, Portland, OR. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: https://www. wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=pran3

Wildlife Benefit Birds, squirrels and other animals eat the fruit, and the thorny thicket of Chickasaw plum is valuable for songbird and game bird nesting. Chickasaw plums are of special value to native bees. It also provides nectar and is a larval host plant for several species of butterflies, including coral hairstreak (Satyrium titus), eastern tiger swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), spring azure (Celastrina laden),

Mellenchamp, L. 2014. Native Plants of the Southeast: A Comprehensive Guide to the Best 460 Species for the Garden. 251 pp. Timber Press, Portland, OR. North Carolina Extension Gardener Tool Box: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/prunusangustifolia/#poison University of Florida UF / IFAS Gardening Solutions. https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/ plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/chickasaw-plum. html

viceroy (Limenitis archippus), and red-spotted

USDA NRCS Plant Fact Sheet. https://plants.usda.

purple (Limenitis anthemis astyanax).

gov/factsheet/pdf/fs_pran3.pdf

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orm w k oo B e

reading the best and weeding the rest REVISITING LOCAL FOOD BOOKS BY LOCAL AUTHORS I love reading books about food and food systems - books on permaculture, books on food justice, cookbooks, books about gardening - well, you get the idea! The Bookworm is my opportunity to share with you the good books that I read and let you know a little about them so you can decide if you’d like to read them too. In this edition of Bookworm, I’m sharing three reviews of books from local authors that we’ve featured so far. Buy a great book and support a local author, you can’t beat that. 94

In her book The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution

it’s also essential

to Save Food, Janisse Ray discusses the vital work that

to preserve the

seed savers are doing to protect our food sources and

cultural heritage

biodiversity.

that is integrally connected to the

In her conversational approach to storytelling, Ray conveys

seed.

the dire impact that corporations have had on our collective seed supply, not only through genetic modification and

Ray’s book acts

patenting but also through the process of selecting to

as a seed itself,

preserve seeds that work well commercially regardless of

holding within

other considerations (like a little thing called taste).

it the spark of life and

But thankfully there are still those among us who are

hope that lies

working diligently to save a wide variety of heirloom plants

ready to take

through the process of seed saving - which requires a great

root within

deal of seed planting and growing as well!

the reader,

Ray has traveled the country to meet with a few of this quirky cast of characters and shares their stories and those of their seeds; conveying the message that not only is it important to protect biodiversity through seed saving but

germinating the desire to protect our plant heritage, and cultivating the need to put hands in soil and take part in the revolutionary act of gardening.

In her book Some Kinda Good: Good Food and Good Company, That’s What It’s All About, Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser shares her

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enthusiasm for food, the South and Coastal living. To quote myself as it says on the back cover, “Rebekah’s delectable writing invites readers to relax in a rocking chair on the front porch and sip on a tall glass of iced tea while she serves up stories of Southern hospitality and food traditions. Her book is the perfect recipe of personal experiences blended with cooking tips and life lessons, seasoned with her own blend of Southern sass.” This book is part memoir and part cookbook. From unexpected job loss to dream opportunities on the Food Network, learn about the people and places that have inspired Rebekah on her food journey as she unabashedly pursues her dream!

Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth Generation Farmer written by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon takes readers through Raiford’s culinary journey: from a childhood surrounded by good cooks to his military career and exposure to cuisines and food traditions around the world and back to his deep roots on the family farm and Gullah Geechee heritage. “Bress ‘N’ Nyam” is Gullah for “bless and eat” which gets right to the heart of Raiford’s family food traditions. Peppered with personal stories with heaps of cultural and historical references, this cookbook provides a deep look into the cuisine of Coastal Georgia - Southern cooking that goes way beyond stereotypical foods like fried chicken (but there’s a 2-day recipe for that too!). Raiford goes back to his roots with recipes like Blackberry Doobie, a cobbler his Nan would make using fresh-picked blackberries foraged from around the family farm; and weaves in recipes and techniques picked up along the way like Snapper on the Half Shell. Organized in categories by their elemental source, the book is divided into sections: earth, water, fire, wind, nectar and spirits. Raiford’s recipes range from rustic to sophisticated and simple (3-ingredient biscuits) to complicated (how to host a pig roast). Bress ‘N’ Nyam welcomes the reader into Raiford’s personal O M Pvaried I L A T I food O N I Sculture. SUE ~ 2021 history with food and provides a valuable perspective into the South’s richCand

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Building Community Through Food: LowCountry Fresh Market

by LeeAnna Tatum

Dissatisfied with the typical post-professional life, self-proclaimed “failed retirees”, Andy and Cindy Rolfe wanted to start a new business that would give them the opportunity to put their skills to use while providing something beneficial to their local community as well. After meeting with members of the Beaufort County Economic Development Corporation and the South Carolina Food Hub Network, the couple was directed to the Gullah Farmers Cooperative Association. From there, they learned about the bounty of regional foods that were available and learned from the farmers that what they needed most was a reliable market for their goods. Lowcountry Fresh Market in Beaufort opened for business in May of 2021. The market includes grocery items from select farms, dairies, and seafood providers; a deli counter, bakery, and cafe. There are also lots of events highlighting local chefs and farmers and include everything from informal fine dining to cooking demonstrations and classes. More than simply a place for people to shop for local fare, the Rolfes are attempting to cultivate a sense of community centered around products from the local farms and ports of the Lowcountry by creating a destination point that celebrates the amazing bounty of the region’s foods. “We wanted to have a great food destination,” Cindy (con tinued on page 98)

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explained. “We were really inspired by food halls

but also an abundance of fresh baked goods and

in places like Italy and Chicago, some of the food

made-from-scratch menu items from the bakery,

halls in California … places where it’s all about

deli counter and cafe.

the food and you’re expecting to see artisanal representation.”

“We want to create a place where the story you tell, and the story that’s true, is that everything is

“We’ve been having conversations, not just with

made in house - right down to the pickles on the

the farmers but with people like Matthew Raifford

side of your plate - were made right here in the

who came to visit and Jason Wallace who is a chef

kitchen,” Cindy said. “When you get a sandwich

from the farming community and Kevin Mitchell,

here, the turkey came in as a turkey breast from a

a chef at the technical college here based out of

family farm, it was smoked here, and sliced for the

Charleston,” Cindy continued. “They came to give us

sandwich. It’s a time-consuming, labor-intensive,

advice on the kitchen design and to get to know the

skill-intensive way to do it, but it’s worth it.”

concept. Those are the kinds of contacts we tried to make because we know there’s a lot we don’t

Head Chef Modou Jaiteh is one the people helping

know.”

create this food destination. Modou is originally from Gambia, West Africa, where the cuisine is

A foodies’ delight, the Market is a place to not

similar in many ways and has many historical ties

only find high quality ingredients sourced locally;

to that of the Lowcountry.

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“For me, it’s about making those connections

people. You know how everyone has a mom or a

between the food of the Lowcountry and West

grandma or an aunt - and that’s what they do, they

Africa more obvious, but in a good way,” Modou

just want to feed you? So, we’re trying to find that

explained. “Despite all the pain and hurt. It builds

balance between a professional kitchen … and that

from that … there’s a lot of historical relevance and

familiarity - making food that is more than just

we’re just hoping to keep that up. Anyone can cook

food.”

food but we want to serve food that is nurturing and healthy and food that encourages thought and

Whether seeking out fresh produce, a cooked

conversation.”

meal or a food experience like a cooking class; customers here can expect to know where their

If the employees are like a family and the building is

food came from.

their home, the kitchen and their Head Chef would represent the heart of that home.

“I’d say people who are here on a regular basis and are really excited about it (we get a lot of really

“For me, to be in the kitchen is about nurturing

positive feedback); they really care about food

people,” Modou said. “It’s like a warm hug in a

and where it comes from, and they like having

way. That’s what I like about this job…. You’re

confidence about that,” Cindy said. “We like to talk

not just cooking for yourself, you’re cooking for

about who the farmer is. We always attribute a (con tinued on page 100)

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product to the farm when we are 100% confident

other things like a baguette which is one of our

that’s where it came from. If not, that’s what we say

biggest sellers.”

- we know it’s US sourced, but that’s all we know.” Not only does the Market provide area farmers Customer education about local foods, seasons,

with a place to sell their goods and produce at

and growing practices is routine and ongoing

a fair price; but the Rolfes are also serving their

throughout the Market; though most of their regular

community by creating a healthy and empowering

customers come into the store with a good idea of

workplace for their employees. The couple strives

what to expect.

to pay a living wage to their employees, provide healthcare and 401k benefits and also endeavor

“We have regulars that we know by name. They’re

to create an environment where employees are

foodies … they come in regularly and they know

encouraged to learn from each other and to grow

what we’re going to have because they pay

their skills.

attention to the seasons. We have some people who come in from elsewhere and then we have

All this adds up to prices that aren’t cheap, but are

locals who like having access to the farm product,

more of a true reflection of food prices that actually

but they’re too busy working to go to the farmers’

support a healthy food economy.

markets all the time. So, they’ll come in and go through the produce section and maybe get a few 100

“We will always say to a farmer that we will try to

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sell it (their produce) for the price they need ... We have to mark it up enough to cover the cost of the building, we pay our employees $15/ hour starting out, they get health insurance if they’re full time, they get a 401k that we contribute to. Our goal is that people have a career, that they’re learning from each other, that they can save for the future and they can take care of their health; so that costs more than average,” Cindy explained. “Plus, we make sure the farmer can make money on it ... Our goal is break-even. Some day maybe we’ll do better than that, but for now that’s the goal.” To transition America’s national and international food system back toward a more localized system

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that honors the farmers, the land, the animals, and those who work in the food industry; we will need more entrepreneurs like the Rolfes who are willing to take a risk in support of regional food communities. And we will need more consumers who understand the importance of paying a price for food that reflects those values. Lowcountry Fresh Market is a hub that brings together producers, farmers, chefs and consumers for a unique food experience. For more information, check out their website and follow them on social media.

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You’re Picking What?

by Deanna Altomara

Scuppernongs. Or, as they’re more commonly

These fruits are native to the southeast US, where

known, muscadines.

the climate is warm and humid. Muscadines are hardy, in part because of their thick skin, so they

Muscadines (or Vitis rotundifolia) look like grapes,

require less pesticides than other fruits. They

but have a rounder shape and thicker skin. Ripe

are also resistant to Pierce’s disease, a bacterial

muscadines are a dark plum black, have a slight

infection transmitted by

give, and fall from the stem at the slightest touch.

sharpshooter insects,

Some people like to bite the top and slurp up the

which devastates

juicy insides; I just pop them in whole.

grape crops in the

I recently had the opportunity to pick muscadines at a local vineyard. Under the hot Georgia sun, we took our buckets into the seemingly endless rows of grapevines. We expected to traverse several rows of the heart-shaped leaves, but quickly realized just how bountiful the vines were. Each plant dangled huge bunches of shiny purple-pink marbles. The scene seemed straight from a Greek fresco... except, of course, for the dusty mounds of ants reaching up for the bounty of fallen fruit. But despite the insects and slippery-thin spiderwebs, we managed to reach into the bushes up to our elbows and fill our buckets to the brim. Altogether, we picked over 1,650 pounds.

southeast. Historically, the southern wine industry was largely based on muscadines until Prohibition. Today,

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they’re used to make wines, jellies, and juices. As an added bonus to the natural sweetness, muscadines are rich in cancer-fighting antioxidants. Two of the more wellknown muscadine polyphenols, resveratrol and ellagic acid, are also found in red wine. Tuck in! We volunteered at Courson’s Winery, which had offered to donate its surplus fruits to a local food bank run by Putnam Christian Outreach. To do (con tinued on page 10 4)

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so, the winery partnered with Concrete Jungle, an

Yet the true shame isn’t that we don’t have enough

organization dedicated to fighting food waste in

healthy food; it is simply not distributed efficiently

Georgia. In particular, Concrete Jungle focuses on

or fairly. Up to 40% of the US food supply goes

rescuing and delivering fresh produce to people

to waste. Food loss occurs at every stage of the

experiencing food insecurity. In the land of plenty,

production chain. During production, food can be

hunger is all too common. People living in food

damaged by insects, mold, rodents, or bacteria.

deserts have little access to healthy fruits and

In retail outlets such as stores, over-ordered or

vegetables, sometimes with no grocery stores for

blemished produce can get tossed. Yet more food

miles.

goes bad while sitting in the back of the consumers’ fridge.

Food deserts are often located in low-income communities where people might not have cars, compounding the problem of availability with cost and transportation logistics. As a result, residents have to rely on prepackaged, processed items sold at fast food stops and convenience stores, where prices are generally high and quality low. Yet a healthy diet is critical to help prevent diabetes,

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cardiovascular problems, hypertension, and a host

This waste doesn’t just affect the millions of

of other chronic diseases. It’s no wonder that food

food-insecure Americans. It also wastes time,

insecurity is associated with so many of these

money, and fossil fuels involved in the production

health problems.

process. As a result, it’s an active threat to health, the economy, and the environment. In response to these challenges, the EPA and USDA have declared a joint goal of halving food waste by 2030. This reduction requires reshaping the food distribution system, with agriculture producers and retailers

Bio: Deanna graduated from Emory University with a double major in Creative Writing and Human Health. She’s fascinated by the intersections of infectious disease, sustainability, and social justice. And oh yes...she loves some fresh produce!

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adjusting their business models to minimize food

•

waste and deliver the surplus to people in need. But as an individual, there are ways to help: •

Only buy what you need.

•

Enjoy your leftovers.

•

Find creative ways to use that last bit of rice or milk.

•

Deliver groceries for elderly or housebound neighbors.

•

Pick fruit for organizations like Concrete Jungle, or volunteer with other nonprofits in your area.

•

And last but not least...enjoy your fruits and vegetables!

Helpful Resources:

Explore ways to use the ends of your

How to Cut Food Waste and Maintain Food Safety

vegetables—for example, carrot tops make a

Tips to Reduce Food Waste

great pesto!

25 Ways to Use Leftover Food

•

Visit the farmers’ market.

The Concrete Jungle Map of Fruit Trees (Atlanta)

•

Donate extra canned goods to your local food bank.

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Small Farm

Spotlight

106

Is it a farm, a farmacy, a community garden, or a

Ultimately, the result is a line of supplements to

fertilizer manufacturer? Well, it’s all of the above and

nourish and heal the body and a line of fertilizer

it’s all powered by one man!

products to nourish and heal the soil.

Based out of Savannah, True Earth grew from

True Earth consists of many components including

one man’s desire to provide healthy food for his

multiple test and production farms where trials are

family after his wife was diagnosed with pancreatic

done to test the effectiveness of the fertilizers and

cancer. What started as an aquaponics system in

the potency of the end products for the farmacy.

the garage led to a journey of discovery into soil

While fertilizers for soil and supplements for

health and medicine from the earth.

people seem like two completely disparate product

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lines, the development of the one, leads into the

and was reinforced with the quantitative numbers

improvement of the other.

after the decarboxylation step. These quantitative results were in both the amount of oil extracted

Claude Galipeau is the founder of True Earth and

that resulted in the exceptional yields, as well as the

currently works full time for the City of Savannah.

quality of the oil, as demonstrated by the high CBD

Claude will be retiring from his City job soon and is

potency of the distillate.”

looking forward to being able to devote more time to his innovative work in soil health and producing

The fertilizers and soil improvement methods that

supplements and good food that is safe and

Claude has developed can be used for small scale

chemical free.

gardening or large-scale row farming alike. One of the latest farm products is an all natural deer-

Claude is always testing new growing methods

deterrent.

and puts the True Earth fertilizer products to use growing turmeric, ginger and industrial hemp which

Look for continued innovation and new products

are used in the True Earth Farmacy.

to be developed through True Earth’s farms and partners! Products can be ordered online and the

His farming methods and fertilizers are gaining

“Farmacy” in Savannah can be visited in person

attention through the results they produce. In 2021,

by appointment. For more information, visit the

True Earth grew hemp for Pretoria Fields’ CBD

website and follow on Instagram!

production. The hemp was evaluated by a third party lab. They were so impressed with the results

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from the hemp grown by True Earth that they shared their report. The report indicated that not only did True Earth’s hemp produce a greater volume of CBD oil, but the oil was also a higher quality, by a fairly significant degree. “True Earth hemp was exceptional quality. This was confirmed with the initial qualitative inspection

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Chef’s Table: Sugar Magnolia Bakery & Cafe 108

Article by: LeeAnna Tatum

Located in downtown Statesboro, Sugar Magnolia

weekend with the girls for brunch and cocktails?

Bakery and Cafe, is leading the way in seasonal

Head on over!

cuisine and farm-centric menu options in the Boro. Part cafe/bakery, part cocktail bar, and part bistro;

Caroline Joyner acquired the restaurant in 2018,

this little restaurant offers a diversity of culinary

after it had been shut down by the previous

experiences to get you through your day.

owners for about a year. After a few months of renovations, Sugar Magnolia re-opened under the

Need a coffee and pastry to get your day started?

new ownership and management. Executive Chef

No problem. Looking for a light lunch or a hearty

Jordan Gunter joined the team in October of that

burger at midday? They’ve got you covered.

year.

Meeting a colleague for an afternoon pick-meup? Enjoy the outdoor seating and get some sun

“We’re not where we want to be yet, but we’ve come

while you’re at it. Taking the family out for dinner?

a long way and that’s largely due to Jordan and his

Gather around a table for some delicious pizza

oversight in the kitchen,” Caroline explained. “He

or a selection of entrees. Getting together on the

works beautifully with the vendors and stays in

a growing food movement

touch with people in the community. We’ve got a

mix. He likes to cook based on what is in season

really good team.”

and updates the menu several times per year to reflect those changes.

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Though not classically trained, Jordan has worked in kitchens since he was 18 and has learned in the kitchen alongside excellent chefs and mentors. Jordan has always been drawn to cooking and has a lifelong love of cookbooks that started when, as a child, he would spend hours reading cookbooks for kids at the library where his grandmother was a librarian. “I remember my grandparents gave me Julia Child’s, Mastering the Art of French Cooking when I was 19 and if you look at my book it has so many earmarks and has been written in so many times.

Committed to local foods and building community,

And now I have bookshelves full of cookbooks… I

Jordan seeks to source as many ingredients as

love them.”

possible from local farms while balancing food

Jordan draws inspiration for his menu from reading lots of recipes and adding his own creativity to the

costs to help keep menu prices within a range that can be supported in Statesboro. (con tinued on page 110)

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“This January, we started working with regional

may be seeing a comeback in 2022).

vendors within 90 miles. Our dairy is from Thomasville or Waynesboro here in Georgia. All

Sugar Magnolia is known for its brunch and

of our honey is from Register. Anthony’s Roots

cocktails. And they have had a long-standing

supplies us with chicken eggs and duck eggs from

connection with the Statesboro Farmers Market

Bullock County. And we have a partnership with

and Market 2 Go program.

Hunter Anderson who owns Mill Creek Farms and with Grant Anderson who grows all of our lettuces hydroponically at Better Fresh Farms.”

are a part of the farmers’ market. We try to

Sugar Magnolia recently celebrated three years

community,” Caroline said. “As well as bringing

under the new ownership which is a great

people in, we want to give back to the community.”

milestone for any restaurant and especially when one of those years was 2020. While the Covidrelated shut downs proved difficult, they were able to shift to take-out and family-style prepared meals to help them get through when so many others didn’t make it. (Those family-style take-out dinners

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“We participate in Taste of Downtown and engage locally and make sure we’re a part of the

Look for a second location to open soon in the Market District of Statesboro. This location will serve a limited breakfast and lunch menu with more of a focus on coffee and bakery items.

a growing food movement

I visited Sugar Magnolia with my friend Jamie

during the summer and holidays when thousands

Hacket on a Friday afternoon. We both devoured

of students head out of town, but Sugar Magnolia

the Crispy Brussels and Bacon (with honey and

has recently celebrated its third anniversary under

balsamic reduction) and Rob’s Sweet and Hot

the new ownership and they are going stronger

artisanal pizza (marinara, soppressata, fresh

than ever. Students will always play a vital role in

jalapeno, basic, red onion and honey drizzle) was

the local economy, but with its higher-end cocktails

one of the best pizzas I’ve had in quite a while!

and diverse menu, Sugar Magnolia attracts a broad array of regulars who help keep the business on an

The location offers a pleasant atmosphere with

even keel throughout the year.

a local touch! Local art and artists are featured including live music performances on Wednesday

For more information, visit their website and follow

nights.

them on Facebook!

As a university town, Statesboro has a reputation for being hard on local restaurants, especially

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Hoarding Bacon Fat and Holding on to Family Traditions

Southern

By: Stacy Reece

Stacy Reece is owner/founder of Down South House and Home, producers and purveyors of high quality goods for Southern households.

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Down South House & Home is for Southern women who wanted to grow up and be Atticus Finch. We’re for Southern women who would fight to the death for their grandmother’s cast iron collection. We’re for Southern women who value equality, literacy and hospitality. We’re for Southern women who know how to act in a cow pasture or a country club. We’re for Southern women with resolute characters and gracious dispositions. We’re for Southern women who hoard bacon fat.

the bottom of the container, you found a dark fat layer with tiny crunchy bits in it that had made it through the holes of the strainer. You did not want to cook with this layer. You wanted the pretty ivory colored fat on top. My grandmother put a dollop of this grease in all of her vegetables every day. She fried her hamburgers in it. She died at 88 after smoking two packs of Virginia Slims a day and two different cancers. We don’t really fry enough in our house to warrant the old-fashioned grease container. I reuse the oil from frying chicken in a mason jar I keep in the

When I was growing up, every woman I knew had

refrigerator. There is something oddly satisfying

a metal canister next to her stove with the word

about storing fat in a clear glass container. You can

GREASE embossed on it. If you took off the lid,

clearly see the layers of fat that form as the grease

there was a strainer on top to catch the crunchy bits

cools, and it gives me the same amount of joy as

of meat left in the pan. If you took off the strainer

looking at an ant farm or a jar full of Sea Monkeys.

and looked inside, there was a smooth, ivory-

It also lets me avoid the dark brown fat at the

colored layer of fat that looked factory-made.

bottom that will scorch the next batch of chicken.

Digging down into this grease with a serving spoon

I had an aunt who went into a nursing home right

unearthed layers of fat like a geological dig, each

before the pandemic, and she let me come and pick

layer browner than the one before. If you scraped

out some things of hers that I liked. I took home a

a growing food movement

car full of wonderful treasures, and one of them

Everybody just loves how it tastes and comments

was this beautiful flow-blue Victoria Ironstone

on the table settings. Creating and keeping the

shaving mug. It immediately became my bacon fat

infrastructure to make all those meals requires

container. What’s perfect about it is that it is small

dedication and constancy.

enough for our limited counter space and has three little holes on top. Once your bacon grease has

For me, the grease container represents the

cooled off a little, you can just pour the grease on

conservation of resources for future meals and

top and it strains it out just like the old-fashioned

family gatherings when plenty wasn’t guaranteed.

grease container. It fits perfectly in our little kitchen.

It represents responsibility and frugality, two values that are very important to me. I feel my family

I don’t really need a grease container in my kitchen.

history every time I see my converted shaving mug

I just want one. It reminds me of all the women in

on the counter. It reminds me to be grateful that I

my life who devoted their time and talent to making

live a life of plenty, and that I come from women

food for their families. No one ever pays attention

who always know how to make do in times

to all the hard work that goes into making a meal.

of want.

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a growing food movement

Reviving the Neighborhood Butcher Shop: Reedy Creek Meats

By LeeAnna Tatum

hen it comes to “farm to table”

them but became increasingly unhappy with the

conversations, the farm and the table get

quality of the cuts and even questioned whether

all the attention while that all important

the meat they were getting from the packing house

transition is often purposefully overlooked. But

had even come from their own cattle. To protect the

ignoring the process that takes farm animal to

integrity of their finished product, they decided to

butchered cuts of meat is a disservice; both to the

get into the processing business for themselves.

men and women who do the work of butchery and to the animals themselves whose lives are taken.

Because of their own experience, they work hard to ensure transparency throughout the process and

Modern society and the current food system that

to provide as much information as possible to help

dominates the industry here in the US has removed

their customers make the best decisions they can.

consumers so far from their food sources that many Americans have a hard time understanding or

As Kim began the process of working with USDA for

even being willing to contemplate the origins of the

correct labeling for their own beef, she realized how

meat they consume.

complicated it can be. Since she was already having to stay on top of the frequent changes and red tape

Thankfully, there are places like Reedy Creek Meat

involved in getting labels approved for their own

Company in Vidalia that are coming back to our

products, she decided to offer it as a service to their

neighborhoods and communities and are restoring

customers as well. This means that small farms

access to local meats for consumers, providing

wanting to sell their meat from their own farms can

valuable processing services to local farmers and

go through Reedy Creek instead of having to take

reducing the stress put on livestock by significantly

on the hassle of working directly with the USDA.

shortening transportation and holding times. Farmers who bring their livestock for processing Albert and Kim Cosnahan opened Reedy Creek

through Reedy Creek will have their meat inspected

Meat Company in 2019, but have been working with

by the USDA and can have it packaged and labeled

cattle for much longer. Albert has been a cattleman

there under the packinghouse number. Once

for more than 20 years and the couple raise their

packaged, the meat can be legally sold from their

own cattle on Reedy Creek Farm.

farm or at farmers’ markets.

For many years, they had their beef processed for

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“Since we started that way ourselves, selling off of our farm, I thought why not offer this service to them? Why not take what we’re trying to do, let them utilize our packinghouse number and then go do what they need to do and let me take the headache on,” Kim explained. In addition to having their meat inspected by the USDA, farmers can also choose to have their beef graded (which is done by a different set of inspectors). By having the meat graded, farmers can not only have a better understanding of the quality of meat they are producing but they can also market it differently according to grade. Through the grading process, Reedy Creek is able to offer their farmers detailed reporting on the quality of their meat and provide them with data that helps the farmers know whether or not they are on the right track with their herds. By knowing 116

how each cow grades out and the number and quality of cuts produced, they can make the best decisions on breeding and feeding programs and make changes as needed to get the most from

to go about it. So, for the last year and a half, we’ve

their herds.

just figured it out. It’s helped us grow this portfolio.”

“I have so much respect for these producers, and

Not everyone who brings their animals to Reedy

so does Albert, because we’ve been there, we’ve

Creek will require that much feedback. They

walked in their shoes,” Kim explained. “We know

also work with hobby farmers and individuals

exactly what it’s like ... We tell everybody, ‘if you’re

who raise one or two animals at a time for meat

not making money, we’re not making money’, so it’s

for themselves and their own families. These

in our best interest too to provide every bit of data

customers receive the same level of service and

that we can.”

quality butcher cuts. They also get the benefit of having their meat USDA inspected as the center

“It’s been a big learning curve for us,” Kim said of

does not operate without the inspector present.

establishing these services for producers “… we knew what we wanted to do and we knew what

“I love to work with hobby farms. I love to see

we had wanted as producers that we were never

families raise their own livestock and bring it in and

getting from processors, but we didn’t know how

give them just as quality a service as our bigger

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producers,” Kim said. “And I love to market for these

free an environment as possible for the animals.

farm to table producers. That to me is where my

Scheduling also ensures that only one species of

heart lies, because I know the backstory and how

animal is processed at a time which also alleviates

much effort goes into it.”

stress on the livestock.

A typical week for the processing center includes

In compliance with humane slaughter regulations,

three days set aside for slaughter. Animals that

a captive bolt (also known as a cattle gun) is used

can be processed are: cows, pigs, goats and

to instantly render the animal unconscious (in

sheep. Tuesdays and Thursdays are set aside for

most cases, the animal is essentially brain-dead

cattle and the other animals can be processed on

at this point, though vital functions like heartbeat

Wednesday. Clients must schedule ahead of time.

continue). The animal is immediately hoisted to hang upside down and the head is removed to

Care is taken to ensure that the right number

finish the kill and allow the blood to be drained.

of animals are scheduled for each day so that (barring unforeseen circumstances) all the animals

The hide is removed at this point, as well as the

brought that day for processing can be handled

intestines and other inedible portions. The carcass

in a timely manner and none will end up having to

is then placed in a flash cooler that will quickly

be kept overnight. This is done to create as stress-

(con tinued on page 32)

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reduce the temperature of the meat to ensure that

For those who are having an animal processed for

it stays safe for consumption.

their own use, the same level of care and attention to detail is given to the butchery. Prior to processing

Every carcass is inspected by a USDA inspector to

the individual meets with the Processing Manager

ensure the animals are disease-free.

who has more than 25 years of retail butcher

The carcass is then hung in a cooler for at least 72 hours before it is graded by a different USDA inspector who evaluates the meat based on fat

experience. He can make recommendations based on the customer’s needs and help guide the decision-making process.

content and marbling. This level of inspection is an

“We have several options for butchering,” Kim

optional inspection available for customers.

explained. “We have a butcher’s preference, this one is the favorite of hobby farmers and individuals who may not know what the best choice of cuts would be.” “My processing manager has over 25 years experience doing retail cuts, so he can look at a carcass when it comes in and tell you what he thinks should be done with it. He calls customers and he actually takes the time to let them know how he thinks they should do the steaks and the

118

rest of the meat.” “We take the time and we do consultations here,” she continued. “When you come in, we have a whole sheet and you sit down with us and we talk you through. We don’t just say, here’s the sheet, let me know what you want. We kinda walk you through.” Kim loves working with families who are raising animals for their own food and believes it is something that more people are starting to do again. From there, the carcass is butchered out into the cuts that the customer requests. All the information on cuts is recorded for the producers, so they know exactly what each animal generated.

For consumers looking to buy meat, the butcher shop is open Monday through Friday. The shop carries Reedy Creek beef that is grown either by the Cosnahans on their farm or one of the local farms

a growing food movement

that raises beef for their brand. They also sell prime

communities. They are essential to shortening

sheep and goat meat that is sourced from local

supply lines which has a positive impact on the

producers.

global environment and helps protect food security within the communities they serve.

“We do have two producers now that grow cattle

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for us using our regimented feed rations,” Kim

Localized processing centers are also good for

explained. “And that’s something that a lot of

the welfare of the livestock. By reducing transport

people don’t know about Reedy Creek. But, If you

time and holding time prior to slaughter, livestock

want to grow cattle and that’s all you want to do -

animals are subjected to far less stress than they

we have a contract for that. You can grow cattle for

would be otherwise. There is also a much greater

us, because we need them. Unfortunately, there’s

degree of accountability for local processors.

just not enough time in the day for Albert and I do it all. If you come in here and buy, you’re eating local

When you buy meat from a local butcher or straight

beef from us.”

from your local farmer, you are helping to rebuild a food community; and that means you are helping to

Decentralizing meat production is important for

strengthen the local economy, improve conditions

many reasons including the impact that any small

for livestock animals, and reduce negative impacts

business has on the local economy.

on the environment. You will also be consuming a safer meat product and you can be sure that you

Local processing centers and butcher shops are

know where your food came from!

vital to restoring local food systems. They play an important role in ensuring that local farmers

For more information on Reedy Creek Meats, check

can provide meat to people within their own

out their website and follow them on Facebook!

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Photos in this article are provided by Karan Rawlins.

a growing food movement

Native Plant Highlight: Spurred Butterfly Pea / fabacea (pea family)

By Karan Rawlins

karann457@yahoo.com

My favorite native vine, spurred butterfly pea

Spurred butterfly pea is a beautiful flowering vine

(Centrosema virginianum), is beautiful and grows

native to the Southeastern United States. It can

well in a pot or in the landscape. It is also very easy

be found west to Texas and north to New Jersey.

to care for.

Spurred butterfly pea can tolerate a wide range of soil types, temperatures, and water levels. Its uses

Spurred butterfly pea is so well behaved that I have

include native plant habitat restoration work, native

it growing in four pots on my deck. People always

plant landscaping, and pollinator gardens. It can be

exclaim at how beautiful the flowers are. Spurred

used in home or business landscaping.

butterfly pea ticks all the right boxes: beautiful, easy to grow, host plant for butterfly caterpillars, and

Spurred butterfly pea is a host plant for the long-

nectar plant for adult pollinators. You really can’t

tailed skipper (Urbanus proteus) and northern

ask for much more than that.

cloudywing (Thorybes pylades) butterfly larvae (caterpillars). It provides nectar for many species

My spurred butterfly

of insects, but it has become specialized for

peas even have long-

pollination by bees.

tailed skipper butterfly larva this year. It’s the

The spurred butterfly pea is an herbaceous,

first year for that. The

perennial, delicate looking vine that can reach up to

little caterpillars pull an

six feet in length. The slender vines twine over other

edge of a leaflet over

plants or trail along the ground. The stems are

them and then use silk

covered with tiny rough hairs.

to hold it in place. Like being tucked into bed at

Spurred butterfly pea leaves are attached

night.

alternately along the stem. Each leaf has three (con tinued on page 12 2)

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leaflets. Leaflets can be over 2 ½ Inches long by

pods will open and twist to disperse the seeds, if

one inch wide. Conspicuous veins can be seen

left too long. Collecting seeds is a very easy way

especially on the underside of the leaf. Leaf

to share this plant with your friends.

petioles have small lance shaped stipules. In the wild, spurred butterfly pea can be found in Spurred butterfly pea usually blooms throughout

sandy locations, dry upland woods, bottomlands,

the summer, from about June through August.

natural longleaf pine-oak woodlands and

The flowers which have butterfly-like banner

disturbed areas.

petals can be up to two inches wide and range in color from lavender to bluish lavender to pinkish

Spurred butterfly pea is an underused native vine.

lavender. There are usually

Unlike most vines, it rarely looks like it is taking

darker purple markings

over the world. Spurred butterfly pea can brighten

and a white spot in the

up many spots in your landscape. Plant it near a

center. The wing and keel

shrub, such as a native holly and the shrub looks

petals are shortened and

like it has large showy blooms all summer. You

tightly curved in the top

can grow this beautiful native vine even if you live

center part of the banner

in an apartment - on a trellis or fence or in a pot.

petals. A green spur curves over the top of the wing and keel petals which is what gives it the 122

name, spurred butterfly pea. One to four flowers are held on slender stalks and arise from the leaf axils. The fruits are narrow pods that can be up to 5 ½ inches long. Spurred butterfly pea is easy to grow from seed. If the seeds are still green when they are planted, they will probably germinate quickly. Be sure the peas in the pods are well filled out, so they will germinate successfully. Once the seeds have dried, they will usually need cold moist stratification to germinate well, especially north of the Coastal Plain. Be sure to collect the dry pods in a timely manner. The

a growing food movement

Check with your local native nursery to see if they

References:

carry spurred butterfly pea or if they can get it for you. If your native plant nursery doesn’t have it, check with

Chafin, L. G. 2016. Field Guide to the Wildflowers

friends to see if they will collect and share seeds with

of Georgia and Surrounding States. University of

you. Mature plants can also produce new plants from

Georgia Press. Page 188.

rhizomes or stolons, which could be shared when the parent plant is repotted.

Cotterman, L., Waitt, D., and Weakley, 2019. A. Wildflowers of the Atlantic Southeast. Timberland Press Field Guide. Page 332. Florida Wildflower Foundation. www.flawildflowers. org Lady Byrd Johnson Wildflower Center. www. wildflower.org The Native and Naturalized Plants of the Carolinas and Georgia. 2019. www.NameThatPlant.net Sorrie, B. A. 2011. A Field Guide to Wildflowers of the Sandhills Region: North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. Southern Gateways Guide. Page 86.

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Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood

a growing food movement

by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.

COMPILATION ISSUE - Southern Soil 2021 I’ve been fortunate to be a part of Southern Soil magazine since its inception in 2018, and three years later, I’m just as excited to continue contributing local, in-season cooking ideas and recipes for this enlightening publication. If you’re new to Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood, this section of the magazine has always focused on Georgia grown food and how to cook with it. My background as a private chef, author and food writer helps me to share the Southern recipes I concoct in my own kitchen with you, and my approach is easy, down home, and of course, Some Kinda Good. The food I love to serve and share is familiar and always packed full of flavor. I hope you will find yourself cooking these recipes and returning to them again and again. One of my favorite moments of 2021 with Southern Soil was the new collaboration we launched with local farmers. Southern Soil and Some Kinda Good partnered with Local Farm Bag Savannah, as well as Billy’s Botanicals from Richmond Hill, Ga., to bring local food

deliveries directly to my front door. I was challenged to cook and develop recipes with the ingredients featured in the bags, which was right up my alley, and oh what fun it was. Many of the recipe ideas featured here are as a result of this collaboration, like my Fresh Pasta with Clams and the bright Salsa Verde that doubles as a sauce and a dip. If you haven’t taken the time to listen to the Southern Soil podcast which also launched in 2021, do yourself a favor and add it to your list of podcasts to tune into. I was honored to be a guest on Episode 4 and loved talking about my food adventures and takeaways from national TV, launching my debut memoir and becoming a part of the Southern Soil family. We’re all busy people, but cooking brings us together. Food is the universal language. I encourage you to find time to steal away in the kitchen and cook. Then bring your friends and family around the table to share a meal - and just maybe these recipes will be a great place to start. (con tinued on page 126)

Photos in this article are courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser

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Parmesan Shepherd’s Pie 1-2 cups mashed potatoes

1/2 cup English peas

1 pound lean ground beef or venison

2 Tbsp All-Purpose Flour

1 medium onion, chopped

2 teaspoons Tomato Paste

Garlic salt

1 cup beef broth

Pepper

1 tablespoon Worcestershire

Crushed Red Pepper Flakes

1/2 cup Parmesan

Dried Oregano

1/2 cup Sharp Cheddar

1/2 cup frozen corn kernels

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In a cast iron skillet, saute ground beef and onion until beef is brown. Add seasonings: garlic salt, pepper, crushed red pepper flakes and dried oregano. Sprinkle the meat with the flour and toss to coat, continuing to cook for another minute. Add the tomato paste, chicken broth, Worcestershire and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer slowly 10 to 12 minutes or until the sauce is thickened slightly. Add frozen corn and peas and cook until incorporated. Top mixture with grated Parmesan cheese. Gently spread leftover mashed potatoes evenly over the top. Sprinkle with remaining cheddar cheese. Dot with butter. Bake at 425 for 25 minutes until hot & bubbly. Let cool five minutes before serving. Enjoy!

Shepherd’sPie: Parmesan Shepherd’s Pie, a meat and three in one, is the ultimate comfort food for a cool spring day.

a growing food movement

Grilled Panzanella Salad 1 large red bell peppers, quartered

1/2 cup torn fresh basil

1 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise

Balsamic Vinegar

1 medium Red Onion, quartered

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 cucumber, sliced into half-moon pieces

Kosher Salt

2 medium tomatoes, halved

Freshly Ground Black Pepper

1 loaf of French or Italian bread, halved lengthwise

Fresh Parmesan, if desired

Brush grill with olive oil, season vegetables with kosher salt and black pepper. Grill bell peppers, zucchini and onion for about 4-5 minutes, turning once until grill marks are visible. Chop the grilled vegetables into bite size pieces and place them in a large mixing bowl. Meanwhile, drizzle the bread with olive oil and grill over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and cucumber into the same bowl. Remove bread from grill, cut into cubes and toss together with the vegetables. Drizzle the mixture with equal parts of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, just enough to dress the salad lightly, and season with more salt and pepper. Add in fresh basil and grate fresh Parmesan cheese over the top. (con tinued on page 128)

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Tomatillo Tricolor Tortellini One recipe for tomatillo salsa verde (about 2 cups)

with

Shrimp

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain. In a large bowl, toss pasta with salsa verde and

1 pound tricolor tortellini pasta

set aside. Season shrimp with salt and pepper. In a

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

medium saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil.

2 cloves garlic, sliced

Saute garlic for 30 seconds. Add shrimp and cook

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

for 2 - 3 minutes until pink. Remove from the heat

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

and add shrimp mixture to pasta. Add cheese and

1 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

fresh basil. Toss to combine. Taste for seasoning.

1 bunch fresh basil

Add salt and pepper if needed. Enjoy!

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Salsa Verde

Scan or click for the recipe!

a growing food movement

Fresh Pasta with Clams Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound linguine or angel hair pasta

2 pounds Littleneck clams (40 to 45), scrubbed

Extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

1 tablespoon lemon juice

In a large pot over high heat, bring heavily salted water to a boil. Add the fresh pasta and cook for three minutes, until almost al dente (the pasta should still be firm to the bite, as it will continue cooking in the sauce). Meanwhile, in a very large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and garlic and sauté just until golden, about 30 seconds. Add the wine, red pepper flakes, kosher salt, clams, and 1/4 cup of the parsley; bring to a simmer and cook, covered, until the clams open, 6 to 8 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Reserve a 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pasta into the saute pan with the clams, adding in reserved water. Increase the heat to medium and cook the pasta with the clams, tossing occasionally, until the pasta absorbs most of the sauce and is just tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the butter, lemon zest, juice, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of parsley; toss to coat. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, lemon zest or juice, as needed. Enjoy!

(con tinued on page 130)

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One-Pot Citrus Chicken with Jasmine Rice and Fresh Herbs serves 4 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs (about 4 – 5)

1/2 cup of sundried tomatoes, chopped

Medium onion, diced

1 Bay Leaf

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 1/2 cups jasmine rice

4 tablespoons butter

3 cups chicken stock

Olive oil

1/2 large lemon, plus zest

Kosher salt

2 clementines, such as Cuties, plus juice and zest

Black Pepper

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

Set a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat, with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Liberally salt and pepper chicken thighs on both sides. Using a microplane, zest 1 clementine and 1 tablespoon of lemon zest. Slice lemon and clementines into rounds, reserving a half of one clementine for juicing. 130

Once hot, add chicken and brown on both sides (about 2 minutes per side). You are not cooking chicken all the way through. Remove from skillet to a plate. In the same skillet, add onions, rice. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add garlic and butter and stir for 30 seconds. Add fresh thyme, bay leaf and chicken broth. Nestle chicken thighs back in the pan. Add sundried tomatoes, lemon and clementine slices into the pan and squeeze the juice of the other half clementine over. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook for 10 – 15 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. Watch closely, to prevent rice from getting too brown on the bottom. Remove thyme sprigs and bay leaf, discard. Garnish with fresh basil. Serve with roasted vegetables and/or a fresh garden salad.

For more citrus inspired recipes, such as roasted chicken with orange and rosemary or Meyer lemon bars, be sure to visit SomeKindaGood.com.

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Roasted Chicken with Orange & Rosemary

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Lemon Thyme Linguini

Meyer Lemon Bars

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orm w k oo B e

reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF WILD SPECTACLE: SEEKING WONDERS IN A WORLD BEYOND HUMANS BY JANISSE RAY Wild Spectacle: Seeking Wonders in the World beyond Humans by Janisse Ray is a collection of essays that takes readers along for the journey into wild-ness where nature can still speak to those willing to listen. Ray’s writing has a way of tugging the reader along with her into the moment as she recalls her own experiences and 132wild encounters with landscapes, ecosystems, creatures and the rare individuals who embody the wilderness environment they inhabit. As a society, we’re losing our connection to nature and to wildness. And with that lost connection, we’re also losing the language and the vocabulary needed to capture and convey its essence. Ray does a masterful job of weaving that language into her stories, keeping alive for a little longer, the words needed to connect human thought with nature’s spirit. “Nature writing has been called a marginal literature. If culture is a set of stories we tell about life in a place and how to navigate that life, then nature writing is literature at its most essential. Its tenets are that humans are biological; that we are dependent on the earth; that places are vital to our psyches; and that humans have volumes to learn from nature.” There is something deeply reverent in nature, we’ve all felt it, and Ray not only reminds us that it is there, but inspires us to seek it out.

“Some of us meditate in old-growth forests. Some of us watch birds. Some of us gaze out at a beautiful view of a lake. Some of us hunt. But the instinct is the same, I think, to understand that the earth is wild, and that we are of the earth, and also wild. Some of us are willing to feel this more strongly than others.” Through Ray’s essays, readers are invited to revel in wilderness and to journey vicariously through her intimate portrayal of some of nature’s beautifully held secrets and to feel the pain of scars inflicted through the incivility of civilization itself.

a growing food movement

Janisse Ray is a naturalist and activist, and the author of seven books of nonfiction and poetry, including The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution to Save Food, Drifting into Darien: A Personal and Natural History of the Altamaha River, and Ecology of a Cracker Childhood, which won the American Book Award. Her work has appeared widely in magazines and journals, and she is the recipient of a Pushcart Prize, the Nautilus Book Award, and numerous other honors. Ray lives on an organic farm near Savannah, Georgia.

You can read more about Janisse in Janisse Ray, Author and Gardener: planting seeds of hope, an article published in 2019 by Southern Soil, and the Bookworm review of her book, The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution to Save Food.

COMPILATION ISSUE ~ 2021 Photos are courtesy of Janisse Ray.

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Reducing Waste:

don’t underestimate the small steps by LeeAnna Tatum Looking to reduce your footprint? These three

decay and renewal; this not only creates negative

businesses in the Savannah area can help you

environmental issues by adding methane into the

reduce the amount of refuse ending up in landfills.

environment, but also deprives the soil of a valuable

And for those of us not in Savannah, perhaps they

resource of nutrients, microbes and organic matter.

can provide some inspiration for ways each of us can do our part to help clean up our planet!

To complete the circle - farm-to-table-to-farm it’s important to keep food waste out of landfills

We’ve featured these businesses in previous issues,

and return it to the soil where it can continue the

what follows is a recap for each of the three: COR

cycle of nourishment. Just as the soil feeds us, it’s

(Code of Return) Compost, Lammergeir Glass

important for us to feed the soil. Composting is the

Recycling and Savannah Refillery! Composting,

process which closes the loop in the system.

recycling, or simply reducing the amount of waste generated in the first place - we can all take small

Michael and Maria are on a mission to help the City

steps toward a cleaner world and small steps taken

of Savannah divert food scraps from the landfill

by many can quickly add up to giant leaps in the

and restore the depleted soils of the area’s local

right direction!

farms. A daunting mission, to be sure, but one that provides a practical solution to multiple problems all while bringing the community together in a

Compost

united cause. (con tinued on page 136)

COR Compost, owned and founded by husband and wife team Maria Vaughan and Michael Wedum. We’re all familiar with the farm-to-table concept eating foods that are fresh, local and seasonal with a clear connection between the land and the plate. But what about the other half of the equation? Nature works in circles, cycles and systems; but human advancements and industry often disrupt these patterns. One such disruption is the removal of food waste from nature’s cycle of

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The couple founded COR Composting (COR

trash service to just divert a few kitchen scraps?

stands for Code of Return) with a simple principle

But people want to know that they’re making a

in mind - close the loop! Closing the loop means

difference. Especially for the community, it’s a

taking food and wood waste out of the landfills

matter of pride to say everybody counts, everybody

and creating a beautiful organic amendment with

makes a difference. So when we set up this station

which to feed the soil. Their goal is to become the

at the market … it’s super simple. All you have to do

natural alternative to a landfill serving the Savannah

is put your scraps in this bucket with a lid, keep it

community.

closed until you come to the farmer’s market, give it to us and we’ll give you a clean bin and you can go

In its short lifetime, COR Composting has already

on your way.”

helped local restaurants divert more than 145,000 pounds of food waste from the local landfill.

The couple hopes to see COR Composting grow

Brighter Day and The Sentient Bean are two

into an industrial composting business capable of

commercial clients. Co-owner of both businesses

handling large volumes of food scraps and also

Kristin Russell is grateful for the opportunity to

producing an end-product compost at a large

have an outlet for food scraps that they don’t have

enough volume to help build the soils of local

the space in town to compost themselves.

farms. But a lot of care is being taken to grow incrementally enabling the company to develop at a

In addition to seeking out more commercial clients

pace and scale that is manageable.

for food-scrap pickups (restaurants, grocery stores, 136

schools, etc.), COR Compost is also thinking small

“We didn’t intend for this to become a big business

when it comes to growing their business and

when we started doing what we’re doing,” Michael

providing a service to their community. They now

explained. “... it has to be done and we know how to

have a presence at Forsyth Farmers’ Market where

do it. And we actually care, we have the energy to

they offer composting service for individuals and

do it because it’s something we want to do.”

households. Developing a commercial composting facility “Every single person in the community can be

capable of diverting much of Savannah’s

involved in this and feel good about it,” Maria

biodegradable food waste from the local

explained. “And we’re starting to get some inquiries

landfills will require a community-wide effort.

from people who want to compost but they don’t

The leadership of the City of Savannah needs

know how or they don’t have the space. They are

to see and understand the value of this type of

either interested in someone teaching them or to

alternative waste management, the businesses and

have somewhere they can drop it.”

restaurants that produce food waste will need to be willing to spend the extra little bit that it will cost

“We started thinking of the small-scale, of the

them to divert their food waste, individuals will need

average resident and family household,” she

to make the extra little bit of effort that it takes to

continued. “Why should they have to pay a monthly

separate food waste from the rest of the trash.

service fee when they’re already paying for

a growing food movement

But the benefits would be monumental for the

this little piece will create more food, healthier soil,

community and well-worth the efforts of doing

healthier air, healthier water and in the end healthier

something “new”.

people.”

From the UGA extension report on food waste

Michael went on to explain, “compost isn’t about

and composting: “To date, 51 percent of Georgia’s

one person, it’s not about people, it’s about the

landfills are in closure or will be closed within 5

planet and our responsibility to be accountable for

years, and 62 percent will be closed in fewer than

what we’re doing. If we want to eat food, we have to

10 years. On average, Georgia landfill tipping fees

be able to grow food and to do that we have to be

are between $30 and $40 per ton. As landfills fill

able to put our food back to where it’s supposed to

up and close at an alarming rate, waste disposal

go. Just like the forest doesn’t ship its leaves and

and tipping fees to the businesses and institutions

branches to a landfill, it uses those to regrow itself

generating the waste will continue to climb.”

continuously over and over, and that’s what we’re supposed to be doing but we just forgot. Because

COR Composting is poised to provide an alternative to the landfill and help Savannah move toward becoming a more ecologically sound community.

somebody decided to take care of our trash for us so we didn’t have to any more. But we’re getting to a point where we’re going to have to.” “The success of this requires people to be onboard and to change up the system. Be more innovative … just going back to the roots of how nature intended

“We’re just a small business, two people starting

… It’s super simple and it’s possible. It’s possible to

out doing something that we wanted to do,”

have solutions to all those problems, it just requires

Michael said, From that, we’ve progressed into

change. It’s all very possible and if we do it together,

something much larger than ourselves and we’ve

the transition should be smooth,” Maria concluded.

seen that it’s something much larger than us. And as much as it’s hard to make a change or make a difference - we all want to save the planet, or at least not be the ones that destroyed it - that is as simple as separating your food waste … that in itself makes a huge difference.” “Most of the inert things in the landfill aren’t going to cause any detrimental problems, but we shouldn’t be burying our food waste because it creates a much worse problem. And if we do compost,” he continued, “just something simple like taking it to the farmer’s market or … compost at your house if you have that desire. All of us doing

Recycle

Lammergeier Glass Recycling, owned and founded by Malena Gauss Glass is everywhere in our homes: we drink from it, watch birds and sunsets through it, eat salsa from it, preserve garden harvests in it and protect precious photos behind it. In the food industry, it is used extensively for packaging, storing and serving foods, beverages and condiments. (con tinued on page 138)

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Southern (con tinued f r om page 13 7)

But what happens to glass when it is no longer of

collected for upcycling projects and no access to

use to us? Wine bottles, beer bottles, soda bottles,

the public through her showroom, Gauss turned to

baby food jars, pickle jars, perfume bottles, skin

the internet to find a solution for disposing of the

cream jars … the list is almost endless.

accumulated glass. “I started making calls and no one in a 300 mile radius would take the glass,” Gauss explained. “And I thought, ok well there’s a problem - I can’t find anywhere to take the glass. And I did research and more research. The deeper I dug, the more garbage I found - literally.” Gauss also knew from experience that she was not alone in seeking direction for recycling glass. During the few months that her glass upcycling and lighting business had been going, she was

As a society, we’ve come to view plastic as the

contacted with some frequency by businesses and

number one enemy of the environment and we

individuals seeking an outlet for their used glass.

might be convinced that by purchasing items packaged in glass, we’re doing the environment a 138

“One of the first places I reached out to was

favor. And in many ways that’s true … with a caveat.

Ghost Coast Distillery,” Gauss said. “And they were

When was the last time you tried to recycle all that

is not recycling glass and if we can save it from the

glass?

landfill that would be great - we’ll be honest we go

completely on board. They said we know Savannah

through a lot.” Chances are quite high that glass is not allowed in your recycling centers and even if it’s ok to put

“I started small in November (2019),” she continued.

it in your bin, it could still end up in a landfill. This,

“Very quickly word spread about this girl who was

despite the fact that glass is literally the most

doing something with glass and by December, a

recyclable material out there.

month later, I was getting calls from about 10 to 20 people a week asking me about recycling glass. I

This is a problem that entrepreneur and glass-

said, ‘no, I upcycle glass, I’ll take what I can’.”

enthusiast Malena Gauss is working to address in Savannah and surrounding areas.

Knowing there was a market on the receiving side of things, Gauss began researching the demand for

Gauss came face to face with this problem

glass.

when her glass upcycling business was abruptly disrupted by the COVID-19 shutdowns in March of

“Everyone just said, ‘it can’t be done. There’s no

2020. Left with mountains of bottles that she had

market for glass’,” Gauss explained.

a growing food movement

“And I was like, I’m going to call your bluff. So, I started doing research on the other end of the spectrum and I found 10 manufacturing facilities in Georgia alone that are not only utilizing recycled crushed glass but they are in heavy demand of it, some of them even importing from Europe paying triple the cost because they can’t get it here because no one is collecting it.” It’s early days for Gauss and LGR, but everyday brings new customers who pay a monthly fee to have their glass collected for recycling instead of tossing it in the trash. Clients include both businesses and individual households. Gauss is also actively seeking municipal contracts which would enable her to grow her business much more quickly.

“The mindset of the powers that be is ‘at least it’s not in our landfill.’ But glass shouldn’t be in any landfill! It’s the only material that’s infinitely recyclable. No matter how many times you crush it and melt it and remake a bottle - a billion times you can do it.” Though she never envisioned having a facility to process crushed glass, Gauss has developed a process that involves sorting glass by color and pulverising into different sizes, the finest grains being sand that can be used in glass manufacturing. It can also be used by construction and fiberglass companies in place of sand. “Why are we dredging the second most used resource in the world, destroying habitats, Gauss questioned. “Nobody is thinking of a solution especially for a material that we are just throwing away.” “I know I’m just one little lady,” Gauss said with a smile, “but it needs to change.” (con tinued on page 1 4 0)

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Reduce Savannah Refillery (Kimberly-Carr Home Designs), owned and founded by Heather and Michael O’Sullivan What if instead of recycling your plastic bottles, you never had them in the first place? That’s the concept behind the recently launched Savannah Refillery. Bring your glass jars and bottles, or pick some up from their library of glass reusables, and get them filled with the household staples you need, like laundry soap and all-purpose cleaner. Heather and Michael are zero-waste enthusiasts who created a small business to help people live a greener lifestyle by making small incremental changes and moving away from single-use items. packaging … it’s hard to make that shift,” Heather 140

For an article written earlier this year, I met with

acknowledged.

them to discuss their journey and to glean some tips that we can all put to use in our own journeys

She goes on to suggest making the process

toward a more sustainable lifestyle.

simpler by just focusing on one thing at a time.

If you haven’t already done so, Heather suggests

“We participate in ‘Plastic free July’ to make an

eliminating single use water bottles and straws.

effort to focus on reducing our use of plastic. I

Reusable and portable water bottles are readily

think ‘Plastic Free’ being a name for a movement

available as are reusable straws. “These are simple

has kind of scared some people off. So, every year,

changes that I think most people can adapt to,” she

we pick one new thing that we’re not going to use

said.

anymore and switch to a reusable.”

Since only a small percentage of recyclable plastics

It’s hard to avoid plastic, especially in food

are actually recycled here in the US, the couple

packaging. But that packaging can be washed and

suggests that it’s best to avoid buying them in the

reused.

first place when possible. As Michael explained, “the fruit that we get for our “It’s a lot harder to look at what you’re purchasing

smoothies comes in a plastic bag, but we wash

and make choices based on that ... avoiding plastic

that out and keep it and reuse it. It works perfectly

a growing food movement

well, you don’t have to go out and buy new plastic

“There’s a perception that going green costs

when it’s already there in your hands.”

money,” Michael explains, “... It costs money (to purchase replacements for single-use items). But

“I think being overwhelmed is a big part of (what

it’s an upfront cost. We have not bought plastic

holds people back from action),” Heather says.

wrap in 4 years, so you recoup that cost over time.”

“When presented with images of massive amounts of plastic in the ocean or other overwhelming

It’s easy to get caught up in the idea that as one

images, it can make one just want to look the other

person, you can’t make a difference. But as these

way. The other issue is that it’s hard to understand

individuals and their companies demonstrate - it’s

how as an individual what you do can possibly

not about you alone, it’s about all the individuals out

matter.”

there whose own small steps combine with others to make a big impact!

Her advice, “just take it one item at a time. Fight perfectionism and be real about it. You may not be able to achieve “zero waste” but you CAN reduce your waste.”

141

(con tinued on page 16)

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Small Farm

Spotlight

By: Patrick Holladay

restaurant on St. Simons Island you know they understand how delicious

“Through agriculture and farming the past 2 years

142

a pig can be!

I have found something positively life changing

Using permaculture and

for my family. We are here to keep our agricultural

regenerative principles,

heritage alive with traditions that have been shown

the plan for the farm is

and passed on from the generations before us.”

to use the animals to

These are the words of Ian Griffith, the hard-working

clear and prepare land.

farmer/owner of Ocean Grown Farm.

Starting with pigs and

Ocean Grown Farm is a small family farm in the Sterling community of Brunswick in Glynn County. With a

cows, future plans include adding goats, sheep, chickens and seasonal crops to the farm’s offerings. “I like the idea of permaculture because of the

heart for their

purpose it serves. Permaculture allows a natural

community,

process without chemicals, best for the animals

Ian, his

and the land. Rotating the livestock keeps them

partner

on fresh ground, the pigs get fresh forage and add

Tymber

nutrients to the soil. The ground feeds the pigs

Ammons

and the pigs feed the

and his young

ground,” Ian explained.

family raise some of the best farm-fresh meat found

Ian is driven to produce high quality

in the area. And they are not new to food, farming

meat products for his

and great taste. Both Ian and Tymber have worked

community so people

with Southern Soul Barbecue for years. If you’ve

can enjoy the many

ever eaten the amazing barbecue at this famous

benefits of eating

a growing food movement

pasture-raised meats. “The quality of commercial factory farming and the lack of knowledge of that process, no one really knows what these products contain and what we are putting into our bodies. I have always had a love for good quality food. Using my knowledge and experience, I can now provide that quality to others.” Looking to find Ocean Grown Farm products? Ian is a regular vendor at the Mary Ross Farmers Market in Historic Downtown Brunswick and other local pop-up markets like the ones at Striplings General Store on State Highway 17 and with the Way Green cooperative.

of these high-quality products, which includes nitrate-free sausages for those who are staying to stay nitrate free. (Ian is even known for passing out some free samples at the farmers markets!) Ocean Grown Farm is also a member of Georgia Grown Trail 17. This agritourism trail runs

All their wonderful products can also be purchased online through the Barn2Door platform and are available for delivery in Brunswick, St. Simons Island and beyond. Current selections

from Florida to South Carolina showcasing agribusinesses and is the coastal corridor for agritourism experiences. (Farm visits by appointment only). To learn more about the farm, check out Facebook and Instagram and you are welcome to give them a call at (912) 602-8590. Ian Griffith, his family and Ocean Grown Farm have one final thought that he shared with us.

include a variety of beef steaks, fresh sausage

“I truly believe smalls farms are revolutionary

links, pork chops, smoked cured ham, and thick cut

and can solve a lot of problems in the world.” We

bacon. Grab a sampler pack to try an assortment

couldn’t agree more.

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Homesteading with the Prewitts: growing community through food

By LeeAnna Tatum

Brian and Noel Prewitt are enthusiastic

and grow a bunch of tomatoes. So, that was the

homesteaders who have transformed their ¼ acre

beginning of the front yard set up and that was just

lot in Pooler into a productive space for growing,

this past March.”

raising and producing much of their own food as well as creating value-added items for their own

“We discovered there was a group of people

use and to sell to others.

out there looking to buy home based products,” he continued. “We had been selling honey and

Married for a little less than three years, the pair

elderberry syrup already and people were looking

have both gardened in the past (with varying

for that type of stuff, so we thought… what else can

degrees of success). But as a couple they have

we do?”

taken things up to a different level - expanding the growing space to include the front yard and adding

Noel began creating more and more health-focused

chickens for egg production and they also raise

products like tea blends, oil infusions, lotions,

meat chickens twice a year which they process

kombucha and fire cider. While Brian expanded his

themselves.

line of things like salsas, hot sauce and pickles.

In addition to growing up to 80% of the produce

The past year saw their homestead transition into

they eat, they also grow an assortment of herbs for

a business. But the bottom line for this couple

culinary and medicinal purposes.

is not only to continue to break free from the industrialized system for themselves, but to help

As with many local food producers, COVID and

others do so as well.

the ensuing shutdowns prompted a shift in how the Prewitts were operating. Having grown a large

“Our focus is an urban homestead,” Brian said. “It

number of tomato starts intended for an upcoming

is part of our mission statement, our purpose. It’s

market, they were left with a lot of plants on their

not just making hot sauce and selling it, it’s to help

hands when the event was canceled.

you understand how to make hot sauce to provide for your family. Whether it be financial provision or

“We had a bunch of tomato plants and I had two

a sustinance provision - we’re escaping the slavery

choices,” Brian explained, “I could throw them in

that has been created in this industrial system.”

the trash or I could set them up in the front yard (con tinued on page 1 4 6)

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Using hot sauce as an example, what Brian and

sufficiency, especially as inflation spikes, the

Noel are passionate about doing is providing

climate changes and uncertainties (like the one

an alternative for people beyond the box stores,

caused by the pandemic) in supply lines. However,

the supermarket and other aspects of the

they aren’t seeking to become 100% self-sufficient,

industrialized, globalized consumer marketplace.

what they are seeking to do is develop the relationships necessary within their community to

Why buy a product that was made who-knows-

meet the majority of their needs.

where, using who-knows-what ingredients, while supporting corporations; when you can choose

“We’re not totally self-sufficient and we understand

to buy (or produce your own) product that’s made

the odds of us becoming 100% - it’s not going to

with ingredients you know you can trust, it’s

happen - there’s things in our life that we just can’t

produced locally, and it will either directly benefit

do,” Brian explained. “We can’t grow our own grain,

you financially by saving you costs (if you produce

we don’t have the property for it, nor do we have

it yourself) or will benefit someone financially who

the knowledge or the desire. There’s other people in

produces it for you and lives in your community.

this world who do it and do it really well. But we can change the way we make our bread. We can get the

The Prewitts recognize the importance of self-

146

wheat berries and grind our own flour.”

a growing food movement

147

“When we buy beef, we get the whole cow which

“As we grow, we’re really intentional about finding

we split with somebody,” he continued. “But we

those people to change patterns in my life,” Brian

know the farmer that raised that beef and we trust

said. “If I can take something away from the

the farmer in the decision of the processor that he

industrialized system for my family and show

uses. So we know that our beef didn’t go to China

someone else how to do that, I feel like I’m getting

to be processed and put into a pretty package and

a foothold on my personal self-sufficiency. Even

ground up with whatever else might have been on

though I don’t raise the cow, I am getting a foothold

the grinder.”

on self-sufficiency because of that relationship.”

It’s all about making lifestyle changes in lots of

Beyond growing for their personal use and the

small ways that add up to big shifts in purchasing

products they sell in their business, Brian and Noel

habits.

are passionate about sharing their knowledge and (con tinued on page 1 4 8)

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148 experience with others. A big part of their mission

To that end, the couple hosts a weekly live event

statement is about inspiring and encouraging

on their Facebook page where they take on topics

others to take steps toward self-sufficiency.

related to homesteading; sharing their experiences, faith, and knowledge to help encourage others on

“We saw an increase of people buying seeds and

their own journeys to become more connected to

growing gardens during the quarantine last year.

their food.

And people really said, ‘I’m going to go for this!’ And that was amazing,” Brian said. “I think we went through that period and then we went back to normal life and started thinking ‘well, maybe I don’t need to live that way’. And now, we’re seeing the prices go up which we didn’t see last year. And we’re seeing the end of the month come up and being short and people are starting to realize this needs to be a lifestyle change. And that’s what we hope to encourage people with. It’s not just one season in your life, it’s a lifestyle change.”

As Brian can attest, sometimes getting someone started down the path of growing their own food is as simple as wanting a good tomato! “It started at the tomato bin. I wanted a really good tomato sandwich, I was craving it. And I was standing at the tomato bin, looking at those horrible, nasty tomatoes. And I told myself ‘it’s not going to be good. Why are you spending your money you worked so hard for on that garbage?’ And I turned around and left and went and bought

a growing food movement

a tomato plant instead. And I started growing tomatoes. And it was the best tomato sandwich I had eaten in years!” “That was around 2014,” he continued. “That’s where it all sort of grew from there. That’s where passion planted its seed. And then I just started adding and adding and adding. And slowly but surely becoming more and more self-sufficient.” To learn more about Prewitt Homestead, please check out their website www.prewitthomestead.com and social media sites under

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the same name. There is also a Prewitt Homestead Youtube channel devoted to practical “how-to’s” on everything from building raised beds to making kombucha. And you can join them live on their Facebook page every Sunday evening.

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Twenty Years at the Bean:

practical activism with Kristin Russell

By LeeAnna Tatum

Earlier this year, the Sentient Bean celebrated its

years stuck with Kristin and were reaffirmed in

20th anniversary! The little cafe that is situated

different ways when she left the farm. They remain

across the street from Forsyth Park

guiding principles in many of the business choices

and next door Brighter Day, is a

she makes today.

neighborhood staple for coffee, vegetarian eats, and a little dose of practical activism!

N SENTIE

BEAN

And, yes, she did leave the family farm. For her and her sister, there was never a choice!

Co-founder and owner, Kristin

Kristin laughs at the memory that her parents

Russell is a passionate supporter

strictly forbade (kidding, not kidding) either sister

of local food and small farms,

to go into farming themselves or to marry a farmer!

an advocate for fair pay and a

The farming life was hard and not something her

pragmatic protector of the environment. Twenty years of running a restaurant that sources almost exclusively from local producers, leaves a minimal impact on the environment and keeps prices low enough for a casual eatery has helped Kristin learn a few lessons that she is eager to share. Kristin grew up on a small farm in Kansas. Mostly cattle were raised along with the hay and feed necessary to feed them. The family had a garden where they grew much of the produce that they ate. And the farm was the endpoint for everything that found its way there. There was no garbage pickup or local recycling bins. Food waste was composted, what could be burned was burned, glass and plastics found new purposes through her mother’s ingenuity. These two principles - connection to food sources and being responsible for finding solutions for waste - that were established during her formative

parents wanted for their daughters. So, Kristin went to college, she moved to the “big city” of Savannah and she now owns two businesses. But that small, family farm and all that it represents has never been far from her mind … or her actions. That passion for supporting small farms informed her menu and the company ethos behind The Sentient Bean which celebrated its 20th anniversary placed on making a minimal impact on the planet and a positive impact on the community. A high priority has always been placed on ensuring that farmers receive fair pay for their products. From coffee sourced from afar to produce sourced locally, cost was less about the bottom line and more about ensuring that the farms could make a profit too. (con tinued on page 15 2)

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But that’s not to say that Kristin isn’t concerned

the costs of locally sourced ingredients, fair trade

about making a profit herself. By not cutting costs

coffee and environmentally friendly disposable to-go

on ingredients, she and her staff have developed

products with the kinds of prices that customers are

creative ways of absorbing and diverting those extra

willing to pay.

expenses. There are a few key ways that she has achieved Even in those very early days when local food was

this. First off, The Sentient Bean is a vegetarian

especially hard to find, the menu was built around

restaurant. Not having meat on the menu in itself is

the produce they could source from local farms.

a cost-saving factor. As mentioned already, sourcing

As a result, they often took the “leftovers” from the

quality ingredients that don’t necessarily look pretty

farms that the higher end restaurants didn’t want.

and are plentiful is another key ingredient to the

Taking less attractive produce and using it in soups

success.

and smoothies. Perhaps the most important piece (or I should say

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BRIGH

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They also often bought up what

pieces) to the puzzle are the Bean’s customers and

was left at the end of the day

the personality of the place itself!

from deliveries made to the health food grocer next door

It’s the kind of place where a sign that asks

(Brighter Day which Kristin now

customers “do you really need that straw?” is not

co-owns but that didn’t happen

only perfectly acceptable but also appreciated.

until 2020). Once the farmers

Pay extra for a disposable cup or bring your own

market at Forsyth Park started up, they’d buy out produce from there as well.

reusable one? Sure, why not? Customers who frequent the Bean, whether they arrived that way or not, become aware of the

By taking what was available, Kristin was able to

thought that goes into not only the ingredients

save on costs while still sourcing locally and paying

that are used to prepare the food, but also the

a fair price. She was able to do that by keeping a

vessels that are used to hold that food. And there is

flexible menu and capitalizing on produce in season.

thoughtfulness in how waste from that process will be handled and the customer is invited to participate

A bumper crop of broccoli meant that soups,

in that story, to be a part of making that difference.

sandwiches, salads and smoothies were extra green that week! Basil could be bought up during the

In addition to using cups, straws and to-go

summer and made into pesto to be used throughout

packaging that is as earth-friendly as possible, The

the year. Tomatoes in season? Use some now,

Bean also participates in COR Compost’s service

preserve some for later.

for businesses. Compostable food waste is diverted from the landfill with the use of bins in the kitchen

The casual nature of the Sentient Bean (think coffee

and now in the dining room, as well.

shop / cafe), means that price points are accessible. Yet Kristin has successfully managed to balance

Materials are also recycled, including glass which

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they pay extra fees to do through the private

composting and recycling could help improve the

company, Lammergeier Glass, as the City of

participation in these otherwise voluntary and cost-

Savannah’s recycling program does not actually

inducing activities. This could go a long way toward

recycle glass.

reducing the amount of refuse making its way to the landfill.

This is one area where the business takes on added expenses, paying fees for both the composting and

In 2020, Kristin, along with partner Brad Baugh,

glass recycling services, because of the company

purchased Brighter Day Natural Foods, the

ethos and commitment to leaving as small a

independent grocery/health food store next door.

footprint as possible. This is also another area

Kristin serves on the board of Georgia Organics and

where the coffee shop actually helps to educate

was one of the founding members of the Forsyth

customers and promote conversations about

Farmers Market.

sustainability and responsible consumerism. So, the farmgirl who wasn’t allowed to farm has Kristin also points out that policy plays an

instead become a champion of small farms!

important role in shaping business decisions. The

Kristin’s pragmatic approach to environmentalism

City of Savannah has a policy for charging set rates

and support of local food is fitting for someone

for waste removal regardless of weight. Something

who grew up on a farm. And we can all learn some

as simple as providing incentives to businesses

lessons from her practical approach to making the

for diverting waste from the landfill through

world a better place! 153

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Photo credit; John Ruter, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

a growing food movement

Native Plant Highlight: Carolina Cherry Laurel / Prunus Caroliniana

By Greg Lewis

Trash or Treasure? A Glimpse into Carolina Cherry

of butterflies, make it an excellent resource for

Laurel (Prunus caroliniana)

wildlife.

Walking through the forests of Georgia is an

The Carolina cherry laurel’s range in Georgia

adventure enjoyed by many. Recently, we took

roughly follows the Fall Line across the middle of

our grandchildren camping at a nearby state park

the state and south reaching into Florida (USDA

and spent considerable time hiking and enjoying

zones 8A-10A). It is considered a medium size

the trees, shrubs, vines, and wildflowers. The rich

tree averaging 20-40 feet in height and 15-35 feet

variation in form, texture, color, and size help calm

spread.

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the soul and cool the air as one meanders through the trails. Every one of those trees, shrubs, vines,

Last month our

and wildflowers contribute to the awesome wonder

family cleared

of our native forests.

some land down in Grady County,

That said, some of them are considered weeds,

and it had several

junk, or even “trash” trees. One notable example is

large Carolina

the Prunus caroliniana (pronounced PROO-nus kair-

cherry laurels

oh-lin-ee-AY-nah) or Carolina cherry laurel tree.

and quite a few small ones

While there are certainly many reasons this native

forming a thicket

plant may not be popular (we’ll get into those later),

underneath.

as a rapid growing evergreen, it makes a great

The growth rate

hedge for privacy; it’s flowers in spring and fruit

is considered

in the fall; and its role as a host plant for a variety

moderate to

Photo credit; Heather Brasell

(con tinued on page 156)

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rapid. It has a dense, almost pyramidal shade—

are eaten by people, cattle, horses, sheep, goats,

making a nesting site for birds—when young, but

dogs, birds, hydrogen cyanide is released in the

can become more rounded as it matures.

stomach making it toxic to those who consume the leaves*.

It does well in full sun and part shade. It prefers moist, well-drained soil. However, do not plant in

Not only that, it has also made the list of “Plants

wet, boggy areas since too much water can cause

to avoid”. The fruit will drop on pavement and

chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) to develop.

sidewalk to make a (sometimes) slippery mess. While its form can be quite dense and works

Although the Carolina cherry laurel is not a tree

nicely as a hedge, that same property can

you would select as a specimen tree in your

become a thicket and difficult to traverse. Despite

landscape, it is certainly at home in natural

all of this, the Carolina cherry laurel does have its

settings. It may not have striking fall foliage, but

redeeming qualities.

as an evergreen, it makes for an excellent privacy hedge.

It is not uncommon for customers at Flat Creek Natives, LLC to request deer resistant plants. Due

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In the spring, it boasts white, showy, fragrant

to its previously mentioned toxicity, the cherry

flowers, developing into green drupes in late

laurel is unappealing to deer. So, this is one of the

summer which turn black in the fall.

options from which customers can choose. Flat

Photo credit; John Ruter, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

Creek Natives, LLC also gets numerous requests for pollinator friendly plants. Another positive quality of the cherry laurel is its fruit provides sustenance to many wildlife species during the late fall and even winter as the fruits dry. Virginia Linch, Project Director of Butterflies & Blooms in the Briar Patch, a nationally recognized pollinator habitat since 2013, recently requested some Carolina cherry laurel. I was quite interested

The primary pests are mites, borers, and

in why she wanted some for the Butterflies

caterpillars. Diseases include leaf spot, fire-blight,

& Blooms in the Briar Patch (if you are near

and stem canker. It propagates easily through

Eatonton, GA make a point to visit this treasure).

seeds (helped by our flying friends) as well as semi-hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.

She did not hesitate to provide a litany of benefits the Carolina cherry laurel provides. As mentioned

On the downside, the Carolina cherry laurel is

previously, it is a native evergreen, but she

not a specimen tree, it does not have showy fall

emphasized it also provides nectar and pollen in

foliage or flowers—really not much to recommend

the spring for pollinators and fruit for birds and

so far. And wait, it gets worse. When fresh leaves

other wildlife in the fall.

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important one) is the leaves give a maraschino cherry fragrance when crushed. Given the increasing population density and new subdivisions sprouting in many Southern cities, having a multi-functional, evergreen, living hedge like the Carolina cherry laurel makes sense. It is a host for butterflies, provides cover for wildlife, This native tree can be pruned to keep as a hedge

and screening from neighbors. Don’t discount the

which adds visual appeal to gardens while providing

Carolina cherry laurel based simply on its negative

cover for wildlife during the bare winter months.

characteristics, but look at the positive benefits and

She further explained the importance of the

see if this native plant might fit your needs.

Carolina cherry laurel to the butterflies and other pollinators due to the blooms providing nectar and pollen. The characteristics of this larval host plant fill the critical need for life cycles of the Georgia State butterfly, the tiger swallowtail, as well as many other species. Actually, the array of species using the Carolina cherry laurel as larval host (where the butterflies lay their eggs and provide food for the larvae) is impressive: eastern tiger swallowtail, cherry gall azure, viceroy, Columbia silkmoth, promethea moth, small-eyed sphinx moth, wild cherry sphinx moth, banded tussock moth, bandedged prominent, and spotted apatelodes.

References Prunus caroliniana. Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Cherry Laurel, Carolina Cherry-Laurel, Carolina Laurel Cherry) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). Retrieved September 21, 2021, from https://plants.ces. ncsu.edu/plants/prunus-caroliniana/. Prunus caroliniana (Cherry Laurel). Prunus caroliniana - Trees and Power Lines - Edward F. Gilman - UF/IFAS. (n.d.). Retrieved August 29, 2021, from https://hort.ifas. ufl.edu/treesandpowerlines/prunus_caroliniana.shtml. Boyd, J., Yelverton, F., & Murphy, T. (n.d.). Plants Poisonous to Livestock in the Southern US. Retrieved August 29, 2021, from https://www.uaex.edu/farm-ranch/ pest-management/weed/poisonous_weeds.pdf. * (https://www.uaex.edu/farm-ranch/pest-management/

One more redeeming quality (and maybe the least

weed/poisonous_weeds.pdf)

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orm w k oo B e

reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF THE HOMESTEADING ENCYCLOPEDIA BY KELLY REED The Homesteading Encyclopedia: the Essential Beginner’s Homestead Planning Guide for a SelfSufficient Lifestyle by Kelly Reed provides a basic roadmap for anyone considering a more sustainable lifestyle. Whether looking to go all in on a rural homestead that is off-grid and almost entirely self-sufficient or just wanting to start producing a little more of the things you need, this book will provide the novice with an overview of homesteading basics. This isn’t a book that will answer all the questions, but it will certainly help the reader to begin asking the right questions.

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This is a great first stop for potential homesteaders, those individuals whose curiosity has been piqued and would like to know more. It’s a great place to start and will provide lots of thought-provoking questions and enough general directions to get the beginner thinking through the process and, should they choose, to start planning a homestead. A great resource for the early stages of homestead planning that can help guide the reader throughout the process from planning to maintaining a healthy homestead.

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