Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT: TRUE EARTH FARMS PAGE 18 \ SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
Issue
4
2021
Southern SOIL
2
Contents
08
14
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BUILDING COMMUNITY YOU’RE PICKING WHAT? THROUGH FOOD PAGE 08 \ LOWCOUNTRY FRESH MARKET
PAGE 14 \ SCUPPERNONGS. OR, AS THEY’RE MORE COMMONLY KNOWN, MUSCADINES.
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
22
26
28
CHEF’S TABLE
HOARDING BACON FAT
REVIVING THE NEIGHBORHOOD BUTCHER SHOP
PAGE 22 \ SUGAR MAGNOLIA BAKERY AND CAFE
PAGE 26 \ AND HOLDING ON TO FAMILY TRADITIONS
PAGE 28 \ REEDY CREEK MEATS
04....... EDITORIAL 34....... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
PAGE 18 \ TRUE EARTH FARMS
38....... SOME KINDA GOOD 42....... THE BOOKWORM
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Southern SOIL
Editorial This issue of Southern Soil has a little bit
get started with 12 weekly episodes in
of a feel of harkening back to the days
the inaugural season. Each episode will
of yore! Take a glimpse at 19th century
include conversations and stories about
America with neighborhood butcher shops
local food, of course! Our podcast will
and local markets selling foods grown,
include conversations with people within
caught, gathered, baked and cooked fresh
and beyond our usual coverage area and
by people living and working in your own
broaden our ability to cover multiple topics.
community.
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I’m really excited about this new venture
In a world where global markets dominate
because for the past three years, I
and the food on your table could have
have been having fun and interesting
come from the other side of the world and
conversations with so many people
been shelved in cold storage for months,
involved in our local food systems. I think
is it possible to even imagine such a thing?
that the podcast will be a great way to
Much less, actually see a resurgence?
start to share those kinds of conversations
Why, yes! It is possible. And it’s happening. Thanks to people with the vision and the passion to help restore our local food systems and bring back neighborhood markets and butcher shops. Here at Southern Soil, we have a BIG announcement! We’re launching a podcast! The Southern Soil Podcast will
beyond the stories we create for the magazine. Additionally, it will provide an opportunity to present some of the content from the magazine in a different format that may be more accessible and preferable to some of our current audience and will hopefully connect us with a broader audience as well! As with every aspect of the Southern Soil platform, our goal will be to encourage, inform and entertain!
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As we move through this process and get
head over to our website to sign up for our
closer to launching our first episode, we’ll
newsletter if you haven’t already!
be keeping everyone posted. So, be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram and
Let’s grow together!
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
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Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
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Building Community Through Food: LowCountry Fresh Market
by LeeAnna Tatum
Dissatisfied with the typical post-professional life, self-proclaimed “failed retirees”, Andy and Cindy Rolfe wanted to start a new business that would give them the opportunity to put their skills to use while providing something beneficial to their local community as well. After meeting with members of the Beaufort County Economic Development Corporation and the South Carolina Food Hub Network, the couple was directed to the Gullah Farmers Cooperative Association. From there, they learned about the bounty of regional foods that were available and learned from the farmers that what they needed most was a reliable market for their goods. Lowcountry Fresh Market in Beaufort opened for business in May of 2021. The market includes grocery items from select farms, dairies, and seafood providers; a deli counter, bakery, and cafe. There are also lots of events highlighting local chefs and farmers and include everything from informal fine dining to cooking demonstrations and classes. More than simply a place for people to shop for local fare, the Rolfes are attempting to cultivate a sense of community centered around products from the local farms and ports of the Lowcountry by creating a destination point that celebrates the amazing bounty of the region’s foods. “We wanted to have a great food destination,” Cindy (con tinued on page 10)
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explained. “We were really inspired by food halls
side of your plate - were made right here in the
in places like Italy and Chicago, some of the food
kitchen,” Cindy said. “When you get a sandwich
halls in California … places where it’s all about
here, the turkey came in as a turkey breast from a
the food and you’re expecting to see artisanal
family farm, it was smoked here, and sliced for the
representation.”
sandwich. It’s a time-consuming, labor-intensive, skill-intensive way to do it, but it’s worth it.” Head Chef Modou Jaiteh is one the people helping create this food destination. Modou is originally from Gambia, West Africa, where the cuisine is similar in many ways and has many historical ties to that of the Lowcountry. “For me, it’s about making those connections between the food of the Lowcountry and West Africa more obvious, but in a good way,” Modou explained. “Despite all the pain and hurt. It builds from that … there’s a lot of historical relevance and we’re just hoping to keep that up. Anyone can cook
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“We’ve been having conversations, not just with
food but we want to serve food that is nurturing
the farmers but with people like Matthew Raifford
and healthy and food that encourages thought and
who came to visit and Jason Wallace who is a chef
conversation.”
from the farming community and Kevin Mitchell, a chef at the technical college here based out of Charleston,” Cindy continued. “They came to give us advice on the kitchen design and to get to know the concept. Those are the kinds of contacts we tried to make because we know there’s a lot we don’t know.” A foodies’ delight, the Market is a place to not only find high quality ingredients sourced locally; but also an abundance of fresh baked goods and made-from-scratch menu items from the bakery, deli counter and cafe. “We want to create a place where the story you tell, and the story that’s true, is that everything is made in house - right down to the pickles on the
If the employees are like a family and the building is their home, the kitchen and their Head Chef would represent the heart of that home.
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“For me, to be in the kitchen is about nurturing
positive feedback); they really care about food
people,” Modou said. “It’s like a warm hug in a
and where it comes from, and they like having
way. That’s what I like about this job…. You’re
confidence about that,” Cindy said. “We like to talk
not just cooking for yourself, you’re cooking for
about who the farmer is. We always attribute a
people. You know how everyone has a mom or a
product to the farm when we are 100% confident
grandma or an aunt - and that’s what they do, they
that’s where it came from. If not, that’s what we say
just want to feed you? So, we’re trying to find that
- we know it’s US sourced, but that’s all we know.”
balance between a professional kitchen … and that familiarity - making food that is more than just
Customer education about local foods, seasons,
food.”
and growing practices is routine and ongoing throughout the Market; though most of their regular
Whether seeking out fresh produce, a cooked
customers come into the store with a good idea of
meal or a food experience like a cooking class;
what to expect.
customers here can expect to know where their food came from.
“We have regulars that we know by name. They’re foodies … they come in regularly and they know
“I’d say people who are here on a regular basis and
what we’re going to have because they pay
are really excited about it (we get a lot of really
attention to the seasons. We have some people (con tinued on page 12)
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who come in from elsewhere and then we have locals who like having access to the farm product, but they’re too busy working to go to the farmers’ markets all the time. So, they’ll come in and go through the produce section and maybe get a few other things like a baguette which is one of our biggest sellers.” Not only does the Market provide area farmers with a place to sell their goods and produce at a fair price; but the Rolfes are also serving their community by creating a healthy and empowering workplace for their employees. The couple strives to pay a living wage to their employees, provide healthcare and 401k benefits and also endeavor to create an environment where employees are encouraged to learn from each other and to grow
they get a 401k that we contribute to. Our goal is
their skills.
that people have a career, that they’re learning from each other, that they can save for the future and
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All this adds up to prices that aren’t cheap, but are
they can take care of their health; so that costs
more of a true reflection of food prices that actually
more than average,” Cindy explained. “Plus, we
support a healthy food economy.
make sure the farmer can make money on it ... Our goal is break-even. Some day maybe we’ll do better than that, but for now that’s the goal.” To transition America’s national and international food system back toward a more localized system that honors the farmers, the land, the animals, and those who work in the food industry; we will need more entrepreneurs like the Rolfes who are willing to take a risk in support of regional food communities. And we will need more consumers who understand the importance of paying a price for food that reflects those values.
“We will always say to a farmer that we will try to
Lowcountry Fresh Market is a hub that brings
sell it (their produce) for the price they need ... We
together producers, farmers, chefs and consumers
have to mark it up enough to cover the cost of the
for a unique food experience. For more information,
building, we pay our employees $15/hour starting
check out their website and follow them on social
out, they get health insurance if they’re full time,
media.
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You’re Picking What?
by Deanna Altomara
Scuppernongs. Or, as they’re more commonly
These fruits are native to the southeast US, where
known, muscadines.
the climate is warm and humid. Muscadines are hardy, in part because of their thick skin, so they
Muscadines (or Vitis rotundifolia) look like grapes,
require less pesticides than other fruits. They
but have a rounder shape and thicker skin. Ripe
are also resistant to Pierce’s disease, a bacterial
muscadines are a dark plum black, have a slight
infection transmitted by
give, and fall from the stem at the slightest touch.
sharpshooter insects,
Some people like to bite the top and slurp up the
which devastates
juicy insides; I just pop them in whole.
grape crops in the
I recently had the opportunity to pick muscadines at a local vineyard. Under the hot Georgia sun, we took our buckets into the seemingly endless rows of grapevines. We expected to traverse several rows of the heart-shaped leaves, but quickly realized just how bountiful the vines were. Each plant dangled huge bunches of shiny purple-pink marbles. The scene seemed straight from a Greek fresco... except, of course, for the dusty mounds of ants reaching up for the bounty of fallen fruit. But despite the insects and slippery-thin spiderwebs, we managed to reach into the bushes up to our elbows and fill our buckets to the brim. Altogether, we picked over 1,650 pounds.
southeast. Historically, the southern wine industry was largely based on muscadines until Prohibition. Today,
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they’re used to make wines, jellies, and juices. As an added bonus to the natural sweetness, muscadines are rich in cancer-fighting antioxidants. Two of the more wellknown muscadine polyphenols, resveratrol and ellagic acid, are also found in red wine. Tuck in! We volunteered at Courson’s Winery, which had offered to donate its surplus fruits to a local food bank run by Putnam Christian Outreach. To do (con tinued on page 16)
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so, the winery partnered with Concrete Jungle, an
Yet the true shame isn’t that we don’t have enough
organization dedicated to fighting food waste in
healthy food; it is simply not distributed efficiently
Georgia. In particular, Concrete Jungle focuses on
or fairly. Up to 40% of the US food supply goes
rescuing and delivering fresh produce to people
to waste. Food loss occurs at every stage of the
experiencing food insecurity. In the land of plenty,
production chain. During production, food can be
hunger is all too common. People living in food
damaged by insects, mold, rodents, or bacteria.
deserts have little access to healthy fruits and
In retail outlets such as stores, over-ordered or
vegetables, sometimes with no grocery stores for
blemished produce can get tossed. Yet more food
miles.
goes bad while sitting in the back of the consumers’ fridge.
Food deserts are often located in low-income communities where people might not have cars, compounding the problem of availability with cost and transportation logistics. As a result, residents have to rely on prepackaged, processed items sold at fast food stops and convenience stores, where prices are generally high and quality low. Yet a healthy diet is critical to help prevent diabetes,
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cardiovascular problems, hypertension, and a host
This waste doesn’t just affect the millions of
of other chronic diseases. It’s no wonder that food
food-insecure Americans. It also wastes time,
insecurity is associated with so many of these
money, and fossil fuels involved in the production
health problems.
process. As a result, it’s an active threat to health, the economy, and the environment. In response to these challenges, the EPA and USDA have declared a joint goal of halving food waste by 2030. This reduction requires reshaping the food distribution system, with agriculture producers and retailers
Bio: Deanna graduated from Emory University with a double major in Creative Writing and Human Health. She’s fascinated by the intersections of infectious disease, sustainability, and social justice. And oh yes...she loves some fresh produce!
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adjusting their business models to minimize food
•
waste and deliver the surplus to people in need. But as an individual, there are ways to help: •
Only buy what you need.
•
Enjoy your leftovers.
•
Find creative ways to use that last bit of rice or milk.
•
Deliver groceries for elderly or housebound neighbors.
•
Pick fruit for organizations like Concrete Jungle, or volunteer with other nonprofits in your area.
•
And last but not least...enjoy your fruits and vegetables!
Helpful Resources:
Explore ways to use the ends of your
How to Cut Food Waste and Maintain Food Safety
vegetables—for example, carrot tops make a
Tips to Reduce Food Waste
great pesto!
25 Ways to Use Leftover Food
•
Visit the farmers’ market.
The Concrete Jungle Map of Fruit Trees (Atlanta)
•
Donate extra canned goods to your local food bank.
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Small Farm
Spotlight
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I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
Is it a farm, a farmacy, a community garden, or a
Ultimately, the result is a line of supplements to
fertilizer manufacturer? Well, it’s all of the above and
nourish and heal the body and a line of fertilizer
it’s all powered by one man!
products to nourish and heal the soil.
Based out of Savannah, True Earth grew from
True Earth consists of many components including
one man’s desire to provide healthy food for his
multiple test and production farms where trials are
family after his wife was diagnosed with pancreatic
done to test the effectiveness of the fertilizers and
cancer. What started as an aquaponics system in
the potency of the end products for the farmacy.
the garage led to a journey of discovery into soil
While fertilizers for soil and supplements for
health and medicine from the earth.
people seem like two completely disparate product
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lines, the development of the one, leads into the
and was reinforced with the quantitative numbers
improvement of the other.
after the decarboxylation step. These quantitative results were in both the amount of oil extracted
Claude Galipeau is the founder of True Earth and
that resulted in the exceptional yields, as well as the
currently works full time for the City of Savannah.
quality of the oil, as demonstrated by the high CBD
Claude will be retiring from his City job soon and is
potency of the distillate.”
looking forward to being able to devote more time to his innovative work in soil health and producing
The fertilizers and soil improvement methods that
supplements and good food that is safe and
Claude has developed can be used for small scale
chemical free.
gardening or large-scale row farming alike. One of the latest farm products is an all natural deer-
Claude is always testing new growing methods
deterrent.
and puts the True Earth fertilizer products to use growing turmeric, ginger and industrial hemp which
Look for continued innovation and new products
are used in the True Earth Farmacy.
to be developed through True Earth’s farms and partners! Products can be ordered online and the
His farming methods and fertilizers are gaining
“Farmacy” in Savannah can be visited in person
attention through the results they produce. In 2021,
by appointment. For more information, visit the
True Earth grew hemp for Pretoria Fields’ CBD
website and follow on Instagram!
production. The hemp was evaluated by a third party lab. They were so impressed with the results
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from the hemp grown by True Earth that they shared their report. The report indicated that not only did True Earth’s hemp produce a greater volume of CBD oil, but the oil was also a higher quality, by a fairly significant degree. “True Earth hemp was exceptional quality. This was confirmed with the initial qualitative inspection
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Southern SOIL
Chef’s TABLE In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.
Chef’s Table: Sugar Magnolia Bakery & Cafe 22
Article by: LeeAnna Tatum
Located in downtown Statesboro, Sugar Magnolia
weekend with the girls for brunch and cocktails?
Bakery and Cafe, is leading the way in seasonal
Head on over!
cuisine and farm-centric menu options in the Boro. Part cafe/bakery, part cocktail bar, and part bistro;
Caroline Joyner acquired the restaurant in 2018,
this little restaurant offers a diversity of culinary
after it had been shut down by the previous
experiences to get you through your day.
owners for about a year. After a few months of renovations, Sugar Magnolia re-opened under the
Need a coffee and pastry to get your day started?
new ownership and management. Executive Chef
No problem. Looking for a light lunch or a hearty
Jordan Gunter joined the team in October of that
burger at midday? They’ve got you covered.
year.
Meeting a colleague for an afternoon pick-meup? Enjoy the outdoor seating and get some sun
“We’re not where we want to be yet, but we’ve come
while you’re at it. Taking the family out for dinner?
a long way and that’s largely due to Jordan and his
Gather around a table for some delicious pizza
oversight in the kitchen,” Caroline explained. “He
or a selection of entrees. Getting together on the
works beautifully with the vendors and stays in
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touch with people in the community. We’ve got a
mix. He likes to cook based on what is in season
really good team.”
and updates the menu several times per year to reflect those changes.
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Though not classically trained, Jordan has worked in kitchens since he was 18 and has learned in the kitchen alongside excellent chefs and mentors. Jordan has always been drawn to cooking and has a lifelong love of cookbooks that started when, as a child, he would spend hours reading cookbooks for kids at the library where his grandmother was a librarian. “I remember my grandparents gave me Julia Child’s, Mastering the Art of French Cooking when I was 19 and if you look at my book it has so many earmarks and has been written in so many times.
Committed to local foods and building community,
And now I have bookshelves full of cookbooks… I
Jordan seeks to source as many ingredients as
love them.”
possible from local farms while balancing food
Jordan draws inspiration for his menu from reading lots of recipes and adding his own creativity to the
costs to help keep menu prices within a range that can be supported in Statesboro. (con tinued on page 24)
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“This January, we started working with regional
may be seeing a comeback in 2022).
vendors within 90 miles. Our dairy is from Thomasville or Waynesboro here in Georgia. All
Sugar Magnolia is known for its brunch and
of our honey is from Register. Anthony’s Roots
cocktails. And they have had a long-standing
supplies us with chicken eggs and duck eggs from
connection with the Statesboro Farmers Market
Bullock County. And we have a partnership with
and Market 2 Go program.
Hunter Anderson who owns Mill Creek Farms and with Grant Anderson who grows all of our lettuces hydroponically at Better Fresh Farms.”
are a part of the farmers’ market. We try to
Sugar Magnolia recently celebrated three years
community,” Caroline said. “As well as bringing
under the new ownership which is a great
people in, we want to give back to the community.”
milestone for any restaurant and especially when one of those years was 2020. While the Covidrelated shut downs proved difficult, they were able to shift to take-out and family-style prepared meals to help them get through when so many others didn’t make it. (Those family-style take-out dinners
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“We participate in Taste of Downtown and engage locally and make sure we’re a part of the
Look for a second location to open soon in the Market District of Statesboro. This location will serve a limited breakfast and lunch menu with more of a focus on coffee and bakery items.
a growing food movement
I visited Sugar Magnolia with my friend Jamie
The location offers a pleasant atmosphere with
Hacket on a Friday afternoon. We both devoured
a local touch! Local art and artists are featured
the Crispy Brussels and Bacon (with honey and
including live music performances on Wednesday
balsamic reduction) and Rob’s Sweet and Hot
nights.
artisanal pizza (marinara, soppressata, fresh jalapeno, basic, red onion and honey drizzle) was
As a university town, Statesboro has a reputation
one of the best pizzas I’ve had in quite a while!
for being hard on local restaurants, especially during the summer and holidays when thousands of students head out of town, but Sugar Magnolia has recently celebrated its third anniversary under the new ownership and they are going stronger than ever. Students will always play a vital role in the local economy, but with its higher-end cocktails and diverse menu, Sugar Magnolia attracts a broad array of regulars who help keep the business on an even keel throughout the year. For more information, visit their website and follow them on Facebook! 25
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Hoarding Bacon Fat and Holding on to Family Traditions
Southern SOIL
By: Stacy Reece
Stacy Reece is owner/founder of Down South House and Home, producers and purveyors of high quality goods for Southern households.
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Down South House & Home is for Southern women who wanted to grow up and be Atticus Finch. We’re for Southern women who would fight to the death for their grandmother’s cast iron collection. We’re for Southern women who value equality, literacy and hospitality. We’re for Southern women who know how to act in a cow pasture or a country club. We’re for Southern women with resolute characters and gracious dispositions. We’re for Southern women who hoard bacon fat.
through the holes of the strainer. You did not want to cook with this layer. You wanted the pretty ivory colored fat on top. My grandmother put a dollop of this grease in all of her vegetables every day. She fried her hamburgers in it. She died at 88 after smoking two packs of Virginia Slims a day and two different cancers. We don’t really fry enough in our house to warrant the old-fashioned grease container. I reuse the oil from frying chicken in a mason jar I keep in the
When I was growing up, every woman I knew had
refrigerator. There is something oddly satisfying
a metal canister next to her stove with the word
about storing fat in a clear glass container. You can
GREASE embossed on it. If you took off the lid,
clearly see the layers of fat that form as the grease
there was a strainer on top to catch the crunchy bits
cools, and it gives me the same amount of joy as
of meat left in the pan. If you took off the strainer
looking at an ant farm or a jar full of Sea Monkeys.
and looked inside, there was a smooth, ivory-
It also lets me avoid the dark brown fat at the
colored layer of fat that looked factory-made.
bottom that will scorch the next batch of chicken.
Digging down into this grease with a serving spoon
I had an aunt who went into a nursing home right
unearthed layers of fat like a geological dig, each
before the pandemic, and she let me come and
layer browner than the one before. If you scraped
pick out some things of hers that I liked. I took
the bottom of the container, you found a dark fat
home a car full of wonderful treasures, and one of
layer with tiny crunchy bits in it that had made it
them was this beautiful flow-blue Victoria Ironstone
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shaving mug. It immediately became my bacon fat
my life who devoted their time and talent to making
container. What’s perfect about it is that it is small
food for their families. No one ever pays attention
enough for our limited counter space and has three
to all the hard work that goes into making a meal.
little holes on top. Once your bacon grease has
Everybody just loves how it tastes and comments on the table settings. Creating and keeping the infrastructure to make all those meals requires dedication and constancy. For me, the grease container represents the conservation of resources for future meals and family gatherings when plenty wasn’t guaranteed. It represents responsibility and frugality, two values
cooled off a little, you can just pour the grease on
that are very important to me. I feel my family
top and it strains it out just like the old-fashioned
history every time I see my converted shaving mug
grease container. It fits perfectly in our little kitchen.
on the counter. It reminds me to be grateful that I live a life of plenty, and that I come from women
I don’t really need a grease container in my kitchen.
who always know how to make do in times
I just want one. It reminds me of all the women in
of want.
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Reviving the Neighborhood Butcher Shop: Reedy Creek Meats
By LeeAnna Tatum
W
hen it comes to “farm to table”
them but became increasingly unhappy with the
conversations, the farm and the table get
quality of the cuts and even questioned whether
all the attention while that all important
the meat they were getting from the packing house
transition is often purposefully overlooked. But
had even come from their own cattle. To protect the
ignoring the process that takes farm animal to
integrity of their finished product, they decided to
butchered cuts of meat is a disservice; both to the
get into the processing business for themselves.
men and women who do the work of butchery and to the animals themselves whose lives are taken.
Because of their own experience, they work hard to ensure transparency throughout the process and
Modern society and the current food system that
to provide as much information as possible to help
dominates the industry here in the US has removed
their customers make the best decisions they can.
consumers so far from their food sources that many Americans have a hard time understanding or
As Kim began the process of working with USDA for
even being willing to contemplate the origins of the
correct labeling for their own beef, she realized how
meat they consume.
complicated it can be. Since she was already having to stay on top of the frequent changes and red tape
Thankfully, there are places like Reedy Creek Meat
involved in getting labels approved for their own
Company in Vidalia that are coming back to our
products, she decided to offer it as a service to their
neighborhoods and communities and are restoring
customers as well. This means that small farms
access to local meats for consumers, providing
wanting to sell their meat from their own farms can
valuable processing services to local farmers and
go through Reedy Creek instead of having to take
reducing the stress put on livestock by significantly
on the hassle of working directly with the USDA.
shortening transportation and holding times. Farmers who bring their livestock for processing Albert and Kim Cosnahan opened Reedy Creek
through Reedy Creek will have their meat inspected
Meat Company in 2019, but have been working with
by the USDA and can have it packaged and labeled
cattle for much longer. Albert has been a cattleman
there under the packinghouse number. Once
for more than 20 years and the couple raise their
packaged, the meat can be legally sold from their
own cattle on Reedy Creek Farm.
farm or at farmers’ markets.
For many years, they had their beef processed for
(con tinued on page 30)
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“Since we started that way ourselves, selling off of our farm, I thought why not offer this service to them? Why not take what we’re trying to do, let them utilize our packinghouse number and then go do what they need to do and let me take the headache on,” Kim explained. In addition to having their meat inspected by the USDA, farmers can also choose to have their beef graded (which is done by a different set of inspectors). By having the meat graded, farmers can not only have a better understanding of the quality of meat they are producing but they can also market it differently according to grade. Through the grading process, Reedy Creek is able to offer their farmers detailed reporting on the quality of their meat and provide them with data that helps the farmers know whether or not they are on the right track with their herds. By knowing 30
how each cow grades out and the number and quality of cuts produced, they can make the best decisions on breeding and feeding programs and make changes as needed to get the most from
to go about it. So, for the last year and a half, we’ve
their herds.
just figured it out. It’s helped us grow this portfolio.”
“I have so much respect for these producers, and
Not everyone who brings their animals to Reedy
so does Albert, because we’ve been there, we’ve
Creek will require that much feedback. They
walked in their shoes,” Kim explained. “We know
also work with hobby farmers and individuals
exactly what it’s like ... We tell everybody, ‘if you’re
who raise one or two animals at a time for meat
not making money, we’re not making money’, so it’s
for themselves and their own families. These
in our best interest too to provide every bit of data
customers receive the same level of service and
that we can.”
quality butcher cuts. They also get the benefit of having their meat USDA inspected as the center
“It’s been a big learning curve for us,” Kim said of
does not operate without the inspector present.
establishing these services for producers “… we knew what we wanted to do and we knew what
“I love to work with hobby farms. I love to see
we had wanted as producers that we were never
families raise their own livestock and bring it in and
getting from processors, but we didn’t know how
give them just as quality a service as our bigger
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producers,” Kim said. “And I love to market for these
free an environment as possible for the animals.
farm to table producers. That to me is where my
Scheduling also ensures that only one species of
heart lies, because I know the backstory and how
animal is processed at a time which also alleviates
much effort goes into it.”
stress on the livestock.
A typical week for the processing center includes
In compliance with humane slaughter regulations,
three days set aside for slaughter. Animals that
a captive bolt (also known as a cattle gun) is used
can be processed are: cows, pigs, goats and
to instantly render the animal unconscious (in
sheep. Tuesdays and Thursdays are set aside for
most cases, the animal is essentially brain-dead
cattle and the other animals can be processed on
at this point, though vital functions like heartbeat
Wednesday. Clients must schedule ahead of time.
continue). The animal is immediately hoisted to hang upside down and the head is removed to
Care is taken to ensure that the right number
finish the kill and allow the blood to be drained.
of animals are scheduled for each day so that (barring unforeseen circumstances) all the animals
The hide is removed at this point, as well as the
brought that day for processing can be handled
intestines and other inedible portions. The carcass
in a timely manner and none will end up having to
is then placed in a flash cooler that will quickly
be kept overnight. This is done to create as stress-
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reduce the temperature of the meat to ensure that
For those who are having an animal processed for
it stays safe for consumption.
their own use, the same level of care and attention to detail is given to the butchery. Prior to processing
Every carcass is inspected by a USDA inspector to
the individual meets with the Processing Manager
ensure the animals are disease-free.
who has more than 25 years of retail butcher
The carcass is then hung in a cooler for at least 72 hours before it is graded by a different USDA inspector who evaluates the meat based on fat
experience. He can make recommendations based on the customer’s needs and help guide the decision-making process.
content and marbling. This level of inspection is an
“We have several options for butchering,” Kim
optional inspection available for customers.
explained. “We have a butcher’s preference, this one is the favorite of hobby farmers and individuals who may not know what the best choice of cuts would be.” “My processing manager has over 25 years experience doing retail cuts, so he can look at a carcass when it comes in and tell you what he thinks should be done with it. He calls customers and he actually takes the time to let them know how he thinks they should do the steaks and the
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rest of the meat.” “We take the time and we do consultations here,” she continued. “When you come in, we have a whole sheet and you sit down with us and we talk you through. We don’t just say, here’s the sheet, let me know what you want. We kinda walk you through.” Kim loves working with families who are raising animals for their own food and believes it is something that more people are starting to do again. From there, the carcass is butchered out into the cuts that the customer requests. All the information on cuts is recorded for the producers, so they know exactly what each animal generated.
For consumers looking to buy meat, the butcher shop is open Monday through Friday. The shop carries Reedy Creek beef that is grown either by the Cosnahans on their farm or one of the local farms
a growing food movement
that raises beef for their brand. They also sell prime
communities. They are essential to shortening
sheep and goat meat that is sourced from local
supply lines which has a positive impact on the
producers.
global environment and helps protect food security within the communities they serve.
“We do have two producers now that grow cattle
33
for us using our regimented feed rations,” Kim
Localized processing centers are also good for
explained. “And that’s something that a lot of
the welfare of the livestock. By reducing transport
people don’t know about Reedy Creek. But, If you
time and holding time prior to slaughter, livestock
want to grow cattle and that’s all you want to do -
animals are subjected to far less stress than they
we have a contract for that. You can grow cattle for
would be otherwise. There is also a much greater
us, because we need them. Unfortunately, there’s
degree of accountability for local processors.
just not enough time in the day for Albert and I do it all. If you come in here and buy, you’re eating local
When you buy meat from a local butcher or straight
beef from us.”
from your local farmer, you are helping to rebuild a food community; and that means you are helping to
Decentralizing meat production is important for
strengthen the local economy, improve conditions
many reasons including the impact that any small
for livestock animals, and reduce negative impacts
business has on the local economy.
on the environment. You will also be consuming a safer meat product and you can be sure that you
Local processing centers and butcher shops are
know where your food came from!
vital to restoring local food systems. They play an important role in ensuring that local farmers
For more information on Reedy Creek Meats, check
can provide meat to people within their own
out their website and follow them on Facebook!
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Photos in this article are provided by Karan Rawlins.
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Native Plant Highlight: Spurred Butterfly Pea / fabacea (pea family)
By Karan Rawlins
karann457@yahoo.com
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.
My favorite native vine, spurred butterfly pea
Spurred butterfly pea is a beautiful flowering vine
(Centrosema virginianum), is beautiful and grows
native to the Southeastern United States. It can
well in a pot or in the landscape. It is also very easy
be found west to Texas and north to New Jersey.
to care for.
Spurred butterfly pea can tolerate a wide range of soil types, temperatures, and water levels. Its uses
Spurred butterfly pea is so well behaved that I have
include native plant habitat restoration work, native
it growing in four pots on my deck. People always
plant landscaping, and pollinator gardens. It can be
exclaim at how beautiful the flowers are. Spurred
used in home or business landscaping.
butterfly pea ticks all the right boxes: beautiful, easy to grow, host plant for butterfly caterpillars, and
Spurred butterfly pea is a host plant for the long-
nectar plant for adult pollinators. You really can’t
tailed skipper (Urbanus proteus) and northern
ask for much more than that.
cloudywing (Thorybes pylades) butterfly larvae (caterpillars). It provides nectar for many species
My spurred butterfly
of insects, but it has become specialized for
peas even have long-
pollination by bees.
tailed skipper butterfly larva this year. It’s the
The spurred butterfly pea is an herbaceous,
first year for that. The
perennial, delicate looking vine that can reach up to
little caterpillars pull an
six feet in length. The slender vines twine over other
edge of a leaflet over
plants or trail along the ground. The stems are
them and then use silk
covered with tiny rough hairs.
to hold it in place. Like being tucked into bed at
Spurred butterfly pea leaves are attached
night.
alternately along the stem. Each leaf has three (con tinued on page 36)
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leaflets. Leaflets can be over 2 ½ Inches long by
pods will open and twist to disperse the seeds, if
one inch wide. Conspicuous veins can be seen
left too long. Collecting seeds is a very easy way
especially on the underside of the leaf. Leaf
to share this plant with your friends.
petioles have small lance shaped stipules. In the wild, spurred butterfly pea can be found in Spurred butterfly pea usually blooms throughout
sandy locations, dry upland woods, bottomlands,
the summer, from about June through August.
natural longleaf pine-oak woodlands and
The flowers which have butterfly-like banner
disturbed areas.
petals can be up to two inches wide and range in color from lavender to bluish lavender to pinkish
Spurred butterfly pea is an underused native vine.
lavender. There are usually
Unlike most vines, it rarely looks like it is taking
darker purple markings
over the world. Spurred butterfly pea can brighten
and a white spot in the
up many spots in your landscape. Plant it near a
center. The wing and keel
shrub, such as a native holly and the shrub looks
petals are shortened and
like it has large showy blooms all summer. You
tightly curved in the top
can grow this beautiful native vine even if you live
center part of the banner
in an apartment - on a trellis or fence or in a pot.
petals. A green spur curves over the top of the wing and keel petals which is what gives it the 36
name, spurred butterfly pea. One to four flowers are held on slender stalks and arise from the leaf axils. The fruits are narrow pods that can be up to 5 ½ inches long. Spurred butterfly pea is easy to grow from seed. If the seeds are still green when they are planted, they will probably germinate quickly. Be sure the peas in the pods are well filled out, so they will germinate successfully. Once the seeds have dried, they will usually need cold moist stratification to germinate well, especially north of the Coastal Plain. Be sure to collect the dry pods in a timely manner. The
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Check with your local native nursery to see if they
References:
carry spurred butterfly pea or if they can get it for you. If your native plant nursery doesn’t have it, check with
Chafin, L. G. 2016. Field Guide to the Wildflowers
friends to see if they will collect and share seeds with
of Georgia and Surrounding States. University of
you. Mature plants can also produce new plants from
Georgia Press. Page 188.
rhizomes or stolons, which could be shared when the parent plant is repotted.
Cotterman, L., Waitt, D., and Weakley, 2019. A. Wildflowers of the Atlantic Southeast. Timberland Press Field Guide. Page 332. Florida Wildflower Foundation. www.flawildflowers. org Lady Byrd Johnson Wildflower Center. www. wildflower.org The Native and Naturalized Plants of the Carolinas and Georgia. 2019. www.NameThatPlant.net Sorrie, B. A. 2011. A Field Guide to Wildflowers of the Sandhills Region: North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. Southern Gateways Guide. Page 86.
ISSUE ~ 4 ~ 2021
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Fresh Pasta with Clams Another summer has come and gone, and as we bid farewell to gardening season, we welcome fall with all its comforts: sweaters and boots, pumpkin spice lattes and apple crisps. The freshness of a new season gives me so much energy and I love pulling out my fall decorations and getting in the spirit of things.
elegant, it comes together in minutes and only requires a few ingredients. Using the lettuce varieties, I made a simple salad with the tomatoes and fresh mozzarella to round out the meal. To let the tomatoes really shine, I featured them in an appetizer of bruschetta, garnished with sprouts. It was a Some Kinda Good dinner for two.
My farm bag this month comes from Billy’s Botanicals, a local, organic and sustainable farm out of Richmond Hill that raises and harvests fresh fish, fruits, herbs and vegetables. Delivered directly to my front door, the bag included Frali Gourmet pasta and Sapelo Sea Farms Littleneck Clams, and it didn’t take me long to figure out what to make for dinner. Bright orange tomatoes, green zucchini and a variety of lettuces, fresh herbs and sprouts were also included.
Now unlike dried pasta, fresh pasta only takes 3 - 4 minutes to boil, and it’s ready. Also, if you’ve never worked with clams, just remember to set them in a bowl of cold water for about 10 minutes or so to extract any sand from the shells before cooking. If you forget this step, a little grit never hurt anyone.
Linguine with clams in a garlicky white wine sauce is a classic Italian dish. Easy and
Visit somekindagood.com for more local, in-season recipes, and don’t forget to shop your local farmers’ markets for the freshest ingredients around.
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Fresh Pasta with Clams
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound linguine or angel hair pasta
2 pounds Littleneck clams (40 to 45), scrubbed
Extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 tablespoon lemon juice
In a large pot over high heat, bring heavily salted water to a boil. Add the fresh pasta and cook for three minutes, until almost al dente (the pasta should still be firm to the bite, as it will continue cooking in the sauce). Meanwhile, in a very large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and garlic and sauté just until golden, about 30 seconds. Add the wine, red pepper flakes, kosher salt, clams, and 1/4 cup of the parsley; bring to a simmer and cook, covered, until the clams open, 6 to 8 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Reserve a 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pasta into the saute pan with the clams, adding in reserved water. Increase the heat to medium and cook the pasta with the clams, 40
tossing occasionally, until the pasta absorbs most of the sauce and is just tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the butter, lemon zest, juice, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of parsley; toss to coat. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, lemon zest or juice, as needed. Enjoy!
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d o o G a ind K e m o S a s !” a o w w t r “It fo r e n n i d
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reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF WILD SPECTACLE: SEEKING WONDERS IN A WORLD BEYOND HUMANS BY JANISSE RAY Wild Spectacle: Seeking Wonders in the World beyond Humans by Janisse Ray is a collection of essays that takes readers along for the journey into wild-ness where nature can still speak to those willing to listen. Ray’s writing has a way of tugging the reader along with her into the moment as she recalls her own experiences and 42 wild encounters with landscapes, ecosystems, creatures and the rare individuals who embody the wilderness environment they inhabit. As a society, we’re losing our connection to nature and to wildness. And with that lost connection, we’re also losing the language and the vocabulary needed to capture and convey its essence. Ray does a masterful job of weaving that language into her stories, keeping alive for a little longer, the words needed to connect human thought with nature’s spirit. “Nature writing has been called a marginal literature. If culture is a set of stories we tell about life in a place and how to navigate that life, then nature writing is literature at its most essential. Its tenets are that humans are biological; that we are dependent on the earth; that places are vital to our psyches; and that humans have volumes to learn from nature.” There is something deeply reverent in nature, we’ve all felt it, and Ray not only reminds us that it is there, but inspires us to seek it out.
“Some of us meditate in old-growth forests. Some of us watch birds. Some of us gaze out at a beautiful view of a lake. Some of us hunt. But the instinct is the same, I think, to understand that the earth is wild, and that we are of the earth, and also wild. Some of us are willing to feel this more strongly than others.” Through Ray’s essays, readers are invited to revel in wilderness and to journey vicariously through her intimate portrayal of some of nature’s beautifully held secrets and to feel the pain of scars inflicted through the incivility of civilization itself.
a growing food movement
Janisse Ray is a naturalist and activist, and the author of seven books of nonfiction and poetry, including The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution to Save Food, Drifting into Darien: A Personal and Natural History of the Altamaha River, and Ecology of a Cracker Childhood, which won the American Book Award. Her work has appeared widely in magazines and journals, and she is the recipient of a Pushcart Prize, the Nautilus Book Award, and numerous other honors. Ray lives on an organic farm near Savannah, Georgia.
You can read more about Janisse in Janisse Ray, Author and Gardener: planting seeds of hope, an article published in 2019 by Southern Soil, and the Bookworm review of her book, The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution to Save Food.
ISSUE ~ 4 ~ 2021 Photos are courtesy of Janisse Ray.
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