Issue
2
2021
EAT LOCAL. SAVE THE WORLD! PAGE 24 \ BY ELIZABETH HOLLADAY AND PATRICK J. HOLLADAY, PH.D.
Southern SOIL
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Contents 18
08
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
WHITE OAK PASTURES
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24 EAT LOCAL. SAVE THE WORLD! PAGE 24 \ PATRICK AND ELIZABETH HOLLADAY
PAGE 18 \ H.K. FARM
PAGE 08 \ CLOSING THE LOOP
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ASK THE EXPERTS
PAGE 28 \ COMPOST
CHEF AND FARMER MATTHEW RAIFORD:
PAGE 32 \ EMBODYING THE DIVERSITY OF COASTAL GEORGIA’S CUISINE
04....... EDITORIAL 38....... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
42....... SOME KINDA GOOD 47....... THE BOOKWORM
Aboutthe Cover Husband and wife, Patrick and Elizabeth Holladay co-authored the article “Eat Local. Save the World!” in this issue. Residents of Saint Simons Island, the couple are advocates for local food. This photo, taken by Patrick, is the epitome of spring on a plate - a salad made from local ingredients sourced I S S U E from ~ 2 ~ GreenWay 2021 Gardens, Crossroad Farm and Garden and Potlikker Farm.
Southern SOIL
Editorial We love celebrating sustainable, regenerative
businesses while they try to shift their business
farming here at Southern Soil! But it’s important
model and change their farming practices. It takes
to remember that sustainability is a process and
time for land to heal and it takes a pretty serious
it’s something that happens in degrees and can be
investment of time, money and resources (not to
measured on a spectrum.
mention a giant leap of faith) to take a farm from chemical dependency to a point where the land is
I tend to think of it in terms of “good”, “better”,
healthy enough to help support a vibrant, diverse
“best”.
and profitable farm through regenerative practices.
Any form of agriculture that is decentralized
In this issue of Southern Soil, though admittedly not
(local) and moving away from conventional
intentional on my part, we get a look at two farms
practices and choosing to be more in tune with
in different places on the path of regeneration!
a healthy environment and more humane animal husbandry is a “good” thing. Just because it needs
Our feature article takes a look at White Oak
improvement doesn’t mean we can’t support the
Pastures in Bluffton, Georgia which has become
efforts that are being made.
the Gold Standard of regenerative farming here in the US and beyond. But that hasn’t always been the
4
Becoming sustainable is not something that can
case and we take a closer look at that transition.
happen overnight. A farm business and the land on which it operates can’t immediately switch from conventional practices to sustainable practices at the flip of a switch. A period of transition is required. This transition period is important for us to recognize and it’s just as important to support and celebrate farms in this state as it is the ones that have become a fully regenerative system. With the vast majority of farmland in Georgia and across the US still well entrenched in conventional (predominantly mono-culture requiring heavy inputs of chemical fertilizers/pesticides/herbicides, and
In the early stages of transition, H.K. Farm in
water irrigation) and an increased demand for more
Cobbtown (the subject of our Small Farm Spotlight)
ecologically sound practices, we will HOPEFULLY
is shifting away from conventional farming as part
see more farms in transition over the next decade.
of an overall plan to make the farm more profitable and appealing to the younger generations. Focusing
It’s important to support these farmers and their
on niche markets and the technological advances
a growing food movement
in DNA testing, they hope to develop a highly marketable cattle breeding program and continue to grow their industrial hemp operation. As always, I hope you enjoy this issue of Southern Soil and getting to know more about our local farms! Please help us spread the word and remember - sharing is caring!
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
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ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2021
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White Oak Pastures: closing the loop
by LeeAnna Tatum
When it comes to transitioning a farm from conventional to regenerative practices, there is likely no better example than White Oak Pastures. Within a single generation, the farm has gone from a monoculture cog in the industrial-agriculture machine to a living, breathing, closed-loop symbiotic ecosystem where multiple types of livestock thrive. While this farm did pivot while under the leadership of one man, Will Harris III, the change did not take place overnight. And, in fact, there was no master plan set in place by Harris to intentionally make a transition from industrial to regenerative farming
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- change was gradual and the process was more
Photo provided by White Oak Pastures
organic, you might say, than manufactured.
Will Harris, fourth generation cattleman and first generation regenerative farmer. “I never had a business plan to move from ‘this is what I’m doing’ to ‘this is what I’m going to do’,” Harris said of the transition process. “It didn’t work like that. I just moved away from it. It was very (con tinued on page 10)
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gradual … it’s still happening. It’s a journey not a
His father continued that model of farming and
destination - we’re not there yet.”
was a successful cattleman, making use of all the modern conveniences of farming: chemical
Harris inherited the family farm which was founded
pesticides and fertilizers, hormones and antibiotics.
in 1866 by his great, great grandfather in Bluffton,
Cattle was finished in an onsite feedlot with a high
Georgia.
carbohydrate diet of corn and soy.
The story of White Oak Pastures is very
The farm was streamlined, efficient and profitable.
representative of the broader story of agriculture in America. What started out as a diverse farm
“My father was the best cattleman I’d ever
consisting of many different species of animals
known,” Harris said. “He was good at it. Financially
and a variety of crops to meet the needs of the
successful.”
family and local community in its early years shifted toward industrialization following WWII.
Wanting to follow in the family tradition, Harris went to the University of Georgia and majored in
Harris’ grandfather was the farm’s custodian during
Animal Science where he learned industrial animal
that period. Like nearly every other farmer during
agriculture. Not exactly welcomed back on the farm
that time, he bought into the industrialized model of
by his father, Harris went to work for an agricultural
farming and focused on raising one thing - cattle.
company instead. Harris returned
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to the farm in the mid 70’s when his father’s health began to decline. While the two alpha personalities may have clashed over leadership, the industrial model was never in question.
Photo provided by White Oak Pastures Grazing patterns as viewed from a drone. Cattle are moved on a regular basis from one paddock to another to simulate natural grazing habits of herd animals in nature. This rotation of different animal species through the paddocks is good for the soil and animals alike.
“It was very competitive between me and my daddy … we both wanted to control it. And he was going to
a growing food movement
control it - make no mistake,” Harris said.
more-is-better (model); I was good at that and I loved that for a long time. But I started becoming
Harris became a successful cattleman in his own
more aware of the unintended consequences for
right, and for the next twenty years he continued
the animals, the land and later the community; and
the traditions laid down by his grandfather and
just kind of moved away from it.”
father, as well as those instilled in him through his education.
It started with the idea of animal welfare.
By the mid 90s, however, he began to question
Harris, and his father and grandfather before him,
aspects of the industrialized farm system in which
believed they were acting responsibly and working
he was participating and slowly but surely the
the land and raising animals in a manner that would
transition of the farm began.
qualify as good stewardship. Like thousands of other well-meaning farmers, they made choices
“I wish I had a better story,” Harris said with a laugh.
that made sense in terms of finances and
“I wish I could say I went to a burning bush and God
efficiencies. Their animals were not mistreated,
told me what to do.”
basic needs were met - what more was there?
“I went from a model I really loved,” he stated
“For me and all of my peers and, still most people in
matter of factly. “I loved that linear, Western, alpha, (con tinued on page 12)
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animal agriculture,” Harris explained, “good animal
efficiency, but you gain a lot of resilience.”
welfare means that you keep them well fed, well watered, in a comfortable temperature range and
The earliest changes on the farm included giving
you don’t intentionally inflict pain and suffering on
up the feedlot and bringing an end to hormone
them. If you do all that - you check the boxes.”
implants and supplemental antibiotics. As Harris focused on the wellbeing of his livestock, he also began seeing the unintended consequences of monoculture on the land itself. The use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides on the fields were next on the list to go, then tillage. The transition period wasn’t always pretty. New grazing practices were implemented which began to infuse the land with much-needed organic matter (through manure), but the improvements weren’t
At White Oak Pastures, the emphasis is on creating healthy soil and pastures. The result is happy, healthy livestock and quality meat production. 12
instantaneous. “The industrial agricultural system breaks the cycles of nature,” Harris explained. “We were the first species, humans were the first species, that
“And that’s really not enough,” he continued. “Beyond all that, you’ve got to provide the animal with an environment in which they can express instinctive behavior.”
“I say that cows were born to roam and graze, chickens were born to scratch and peck, hogs were born to root and wallow.” “My cattle feedlot did not allow that. And industrial chicken houses don’t allow that. And hogs on concrete don’t allow that. The industrial agricultural model deprives them of that opportunity. And when you do that, you put them in a low level of stress 24 hours a day, seven days a week for their whole life.” “And that realization … and when you move to that higher level of animal welfare, you give up that
ever became powerful enough to break the cycles of nature and we do that through technology.” “And the cycles of nature - to name a few - are: the water cycle, the mineral cycle, carbon cycle, energy cycle, microbial cycle … cycles we aren’t smart enough yet to recognize. But the use of technology: chemical fertilizers, pesticides, tillage - broke those cycles and that causes desertification.” “We’re in Georgia and desert in Georgia - that sounds stupid. But it ain’t,” Harris asserted. “This land is a desert that gets 52 inches of rain a year it’s still a desert.” Regenerative agriculture is a system that works to restore those natural cycles by closing as many loops as possible. Where industrial agriculture streamlines, regenerative agriculture diversifies.
UNINTENDEDa growing CONSEQUENCES food movement Where industrial agriculture creates efficiencies, regenerative agriculture cultivates resilience. Where industrial agriculture requires inputs, regenerative agriculture relies on symbiotic relationships. And where industrial agriculture creates waste, regenerative agriculture makes use of “waste”. Today, White Oak Pastures is approximately 3,500 acres of rich farmland watered only by rainfall and fertilized by the “waste” of cows, goats, sheep, poultry and rabbits. The ground is tilled by thousands of hooves and claws. Chickens, turkeys and other fowl work tirelessly at pest control and parasite management. Putting in the hard work to ensure the wellbeing of his livestock, he did not like the idea of shipping them off to be slaughtered elsewhere. In 2008, Harris leveraged the farm in order to build an onsite abattoir. The abattoir, designed by Temple Grandin, ensures the most humane process possible. A few years later, a poultry abattoir was also added to the farm. (con tinued on page 1 4)
The term “unintended consequences” most often has a negative connotation, but sometimes the reverse can be true! As is the case with White Oak Pastures (WOP) and the surrounding community. Will Harris and the managers of WOP didn’t purposely engage in rural development or establish a plan to bring about a restoration of downtown Bluffton, it just happened as a natural result of the farm’s growth. But once they realized the positive effect they were having, “rural revival” became the third tenet of their core values. The other two tenets being: animal welfare and land regeneration. Over the past ten years, WOP has bought and restored a number of buildings downtown, including the General Store and several houses, infusing new business and life back into the tiny community. With a population of 103, Bluffton had experienced a decline that is all too familiar across rural Georgia. No jobs, no opportunities, no growth … nothing to encourage people to stay, much less draw new people in. The restoration of the town’s General Store has created a new and vibrant hub for this small town. It’s literally THE place to be! Residents, visitors and farm employees gather here to eat, shop (grocery and toiletry items are available as well as WOP products), and visit! 13 Oh… and it’s also one of the few spots with reliable cell service (we know how that goes in rural areas!) and wifi is available here for employees and guests of the farm. WOP has bought and restored several homes some of which are used for farm managers and staff homes, as well as intern housing. But there are also a couple houses in town which WOP rents for farm visits! Cabins have also been built on the farm itself and are available for farmstays. Guests have the opportunity to tour the farm, go on a trail ride, or just unwind and unplug! Agricultural tourism at its best. Of course, all this change hasn’t been met with open arms from everyone in the community, but there is no doubt that WOP has made a positive impact on the local economy and infrastructure I S S out U E ~to 2do~ so 2 0or 2 1not! - whether they intentionally set
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 13)
Aside from ensuring less stress on the livestock and humane slaughter, the onsite abattoir also means that the farm can reincorporate the “waste” like: blood, feathers and intestines. These byproducts are composted on the farm and eventually go back into the land, feeding the soil and closing the loop (soil feeds plants, plants feed animals, animals feed soil). Animals raised on White Oak Pastures are given the environment and opportunity to express their innate behaviors. the tanning process is outsourced), and rawhide treats for dogs. Tallow is used for creating soaps and candles. And as mentioned before, all waste that can’t be repurposed in another way becomes valuable compost for keeping the soil healthy.
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Pastures are a diverse mix of annuals and perennials - grasses, clover, millet and much more!
Another aspect of the farm’s transition has been the addition of women in leadership. In previous generations the farm was passed from father to son, but Harris has no sons. Two of his three
As they work toward becoming a zero-waste
daughters have returned to the farm and work
system, the staff of White Oak Pastures have found
alongside their father.
many creative and profitable outlets for what was once considered waste.
When it comes to working with his daughters, Jenni Harris and Jodi Harris Benoit, Harris admits there’s Hides, depending
a stark contrast with how things were between him
on their quality,
and his father.
are used for things like:
“The family dynamic is different,” Harris stated.
cow hide rugs,
“My daddy … He and I struggled to work together.
leather goods
I mentioned earlier, we were both … like two alpha
(made onsite but
bulls going head to head. And I’ve got these daughters … and when they wanted to come back… (Harris shook his head at the recollection) ... I remembered those bad ol’ days!”
a growing food movement
“But it’s very different,” he continued. “it’s different
the idea that it is a “family-run” business.
with daughters, they want to please me and I don’t want to hurt their feelings.”
“This is a family owned business, it’s not necessarily a family run business,” Harris said. “Me and my two
“Very, very different,” he said with a smile.
daughters and two in-laws do run the business, but there’s a lot of other people who help run this business. It wouldn’t be what it is without these non-family members!” White Oak Pastures currently employs around 180 people, It is pretty much the only employer in Bluffton and is the largest employer in the county. The farm also has an intern program which helps
Healthy ecosystems are evident throughout the farm as nature lives and thrives alongside livestock.
train future farmers who come from all over to learn about regenerative farm practices and humane animal husbandry and to gain the practical skills necessary to farm.
Though it is very much a family business (not only do two of his daughters work there, but both of their spouses do as well), Harris takes exception to
It’s been more than 25 years since Harris began (con tinued on page 16)
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shifting his farm away from the industrial model
will work! If you’ve got 12,000 acres of paid-for land
and during that time he has become a leader in the
in an impoverished area of Georgia,” he says with a
regenerative farm movement. The farm has also
shrug “… well, it’s situational.”
grown considerably in that time. “If you’re in the right zip code, it’s easy. If you’re in When it comes to feeding the world through
an impoverished area, it’s not easy.”
regenerative agriculture, Harris sees it less as an issue of scaling up and more about replication.
Harris suggests instead that farmers keep in mind
He also doesn’t view other regenerative farmers
that there are three key areas which need to stay
as his competitors, he saves that distinction for
in sync: production, processing and marketing/
industrialized ag companies. As he sees it, there is
distribution.
plenty of room for more farms like his serving their own communities.
“What’s important is there’s three legs on the stool.
As a leader in the field, one of the questions Harris
is what we all love and it’s what we tend to focus
gets most is, “at what scale does this type of
on. There’s processing, which means taking the
farming work?”
production so that you monetize it. Consumers
There’s production out of the pasture or field, which
don’t buy cows and hogs and sheep, they buy beef His answer: it’s entirely situational!
and pork and lamb. And then there’s the marketing/ distribution - you’ve got to get to them.”
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“It could work on a very small scale - if you’ve got a ¼ of an acre yard in one of those zip codes in
“Any scale can work, as long as you keep the
Massachusetts with a seven-digit annual income, it
three legs on the stool coming up or going down
a growing food movement
together,” he continued. “It can be very low scale,
which is what we were good at. I didn’t see why we
low volume or it can be high. Keeping those three
couldn’t do poultry on the same scale. We wound
legs (in balance) is very hard. It’s gotten away from
up not doing good. We’ve figured it out now.”
us before and it will get away from anybody … I’ve seen a lot of people a lot smarter than me and with
“I don’t have too many regrets. Of the many things
a lot more money than me go broke because they
I did, if I had it to do over again … I would probably
didn’t keep the three legs on the stool coming up
have taken a more measured approach to that.”
together.”
But Harris is not a man to dwell on regrets. From
Harris admits that they haven’t always gotten it
his earliest memories, farming is the one and only
right as White Oak Pastures has grown over the
thing that he ever wanted to do and after a lifetime
years. When they decided to add poultry production
of experience, he still gets up every day excited to
to the farm, they went all in - assuming that since
do the job he loves.
they had cracked the code with cattle, it would be simple to do it again with poultry.
“I LOVE what I do. I’ve got such a good job. I love
“I went into the poultry business too big, too quick
family. I’ve got a good gig! I wouldn’t change
and it cost me a bunch of money,” Harris said.
anything. I’ll never retire.”
working with these people - family and just-like-
“We were kind of drunk on success with the cattle, 17
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL
Small Farm
Spotlight
I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
In the early stages of transition, H.K. Farm
H.K. Farm in its current form was established
is shifting away from conventional farming
when Handy Kennedy, II left 900 acres to his
as part of an overall plan to make the farm
twelve children. Rather than dividing the land
more profitable and appealing to the younger
between them, the siblings decided to keep
generations. Focusing on niche markets and the
the farm together and run it as equal partners
technological advances in DNA testing, they hope
through incorporation.
to develop a highly marketable cattle breeding program and continue to grow their industrial
The siblings are the fourth generation to farm the
hemp operation.
land located near Cobbtown originally purchased
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Brothers HK and Ben are two of the twelve Kennedy siblings who share ownership of H.K. Farm.
Fireplace and deck of the MJ Legacy Center. The Center is
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a spacious gathering place located on the beautiful and serene grounds of H.K. Farm. The Center can be rented for events and gatherings.
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by their great grandfather, the first Handy
nature through activities like gardening, animal
Kennedy, a hardworking and industrious farmer
husbandry, fishing, archery and horseback riding.
who overcame incredible odds to establish a
Though enjoyment is a big part of the day, kids
farm of his own in 1869.
also help with work that needs doing on the farm.
Though none of the current generation, or Gen
Gen 4 also added the MJ Legacy Center to the
4 as they refer to themselves, chose to stay and
farm. It is a venue for weddings, reunions and
work the farm full time, they have kept the land
other events (reopening later this year). Named in
intact and have continued family traditions there
honor of their mother, the MJ Legacy Center is a
- including growing and pressing sugarcane - and
reflection of her community spirit and hospitality.
have used the land to benefit the community.
MJ was known for excellent cooking. She loved
(Many of those activities were suspended in
her garden and also planted fruit trees so she
2020 due to Covid.)
could enjoy fresh produce in season - a tradition that is continued on the farm today.
The farm has hosted Youth Days enabling kids who are mostly from the Atlanta area to experience a taste of farm life and connect with
The farm is currently going through a transition (con tinued on page 20)
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process as the current leadership works to turn
devote their attention to the farm.
the farm into a business that would be able to provide full time employment for members of the
While they have always kept some cattle on the
next generation.
land, they are shifting their cattle operation to become more intentional with their breeding
“In order to get the youth you have to make sure
program and build it into a successful business.
they can make a living at it,” Handy Kennedy, III (HK) said as spokesman for Gen 4. “And in
“We’re raising black angus beef cattle,” HK said.
order to make a living at it, you have to do it like
“And we’re implementing some sustainable
anything else in life - you have to treat it like a
practices. We’re moving into a controlled-
business, you have to run it like a business.”
environment breeding method and we’re going to try to have a target market for our beef.”
HK and his brother Ben both plan to retire from their full time jobs within the next 5 years and
“We want to start from the beginning and build
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H.K. Farm’s first hemp harvest in 2020.
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good seed stock and work toward the full
and will soon be available to purchase on their
process … we want to be able to offer direct sales
website. They intend to continue to develop
to consumers in the future,” HK continued.
their crop in order to meet specific needs of consumers.
By using the latest developments in genetic testing and following the Expected Progeny
H.K. Farm has moved away from chemical
Differences (EPDs) data, they hope to be as
inputs on the land and are working toward a
efficient as possible in choosing breeding stock
regenerative farming model. Ben has a small
that will help them build a herd of quality beef
herd of goats on the farm and eventually they
cows.
would like to add chickens and begin a rotational grazing method with their livestock.
In 2020, they also added a new crop to their farm - industrial hemp. Adding hemp production
“It’s hard for small farmers,” HK explained. “It
to the farm is another way that Gen 4 is working
takes time and effort to get to the regenerative
to lay the foundation for a successful business
method, but we’ll get there. We’re taking small
for the next generation. With their first year of
incremental steps.”
production behind them, they are ready to move forward into the second season with a few
H.K. Farm is deeply rooted in a tradition of hard
lessons learned.
work, community involvement and commitment to strong family values. Gen 4 is working
“We had a few issues,” HK said of their first
diligently to build on the family’s legacy and
season. “We ran into all types of challenges just
prepare the farm to be profitable for future
like any new business from beginning to end.
generations.
Sometimes you just don’t know what you don’t know. But we learned a lot and we can correct a
While many of the farm’s usual activities were
lot of things now. Growing, collecting, harvesting
suspended due to COVID, they are hoping to
and marketing.”
get things back to normal starting this summer. You can learn more about H.K. Farm and the
H.K. Farm is selling CBD oil under their own
opportunities available there on their website.
brand which is available to purchase at the farm
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Eat Local. Save the World!
by Elizabeth Holladay and Patrick J. Holladay, Ph.D.
You can help save the world! No, this is not some kind of grandiose idea. It really starts with what’s on your plate. Locally sourced meals from small farms save natural resources, improve biodiversity, decrease pollution, and encourage animal welfare. Also, let’s support poison free food—pesticides are bad for every living thing. We hope you are on board! So, let’s have a look at some of these in a little more detail.
Locally sourced meals save natural resources
Locally sourced meals improve biodiversity. Biodiversity, also known as biological diversity, is the variation and variability of organisms in any given environment1. In other words, how many species and how many individuals of these species are there wherever you happen to be in the world. Included in all of these are the plants and animals that provide our food and food production. But, (con tinued on page 26)
According to the Natural Resources Defense
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Council, a U.S. environmental advocacy group, the average American meal contains food from five different continents! One of the biggest issues with shipping food and its impacts on the environment is water. Current agricultural practices in the U.S. account for 67% of all the country’s freshwater use. As indicated by the World Economic Forum, eating foods that are out-of-season and not grown locally produces a huge drain on freshwater supplies. The way out of this? Start connecting with local farmers, Georgia Farm Bureau has a list of farmers markets and visit some farms like these listed in Explore Georgia. Also, we invite you to do some research into some of the great businesses through directories such as found in Southern Soil, the very magazine you are currently reading!
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Holladay, P. J. (2015). Biodiversity. In C. Cater, Garrod, B., & Low, T. (Eds.) The Encyclopedia of Sustainable Tourism. Oxford: CABI. pp. 54-55. ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2021
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sadly, of the 6000 kinds of food that are grown a whopping 66% of all crop production! That is
Locally sourced meals encourage animal welfare
not very biodiverse at all, is it? As reported by the
We believe it important to mention that agricultural
for food in the world, only nine foods account for
Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations (FAO) these nine crops are sugar cane, corn, rice, wheat, potatoes, soybeans, oil-palm fruit, sugar beet and cassava. Not a lot of variety on that menu and a lot of sugar crops. By supporting local farmers who are growing a diverse variety of crops, using natural or organic agriculture, agroecology and permaculture practices (e.g. food forests) we are combating loss of biodiversity to pests, climate change, and monocropping as well as enhancing soil conditions, and improving food nutritional values.
working conditions and wages should be healthy for people and livestock. According to the Animal Welfare Institute less than 1% of animals raised for consumption are raised in humane conditions. In fact, most livestock are raised on “factory farms”, which are industrialized, large-scale, intensive production facilities. According to the United Nations Environment Programme, these “farms” are intense polluters, promote the spread of disease, create human health issues, contaminate soil and water, and use extremely poor land management practices. But there is hope and it is found in your local farmers. We want to give a big shout-out to Brandon Chonko of Grassroots Farms, in Camden
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Locally sourced meals decrease pollution
County, Georgia. We’ve been buying heritage pork
One of the issues with not sourcing food locally
And we are not alone. Grassroots Farms has a
is food’s carbon footprint. A carbon footprint is
big following of happy eaters all up and down the
how much carbon dioxide is released into the
coast. And Grassroots Farms is certainly not the
atmosphere due to the burning of fossil fuels. Put
only farm or ranch doing this; there are a number
another way, how much gas is burned for you to
of great livestock producers in South Georgia.
get whatever it is that you are eating? According to
We encourage you to find them in your region
a Columbia University article, most foods produced
through amazing organizations like WayGreen,
in the US travel 1,500 miles from farm to plate.
Inc., Southeast Georgia’s Local Food Coalition, the
The National Sustainable Agricultural Information
Georgia Fruit and Vegetable Growers Association,
Service calls these “food miles” and advocates for
Georgia Organic’s Good Food Guide or have a look
local food systems which reduce transportation
at Georgia Grown businesses. Do keep in mind,
costs, provide fresher, better tasting food and keep
however, that there is a process to receive the
food dollars in rural communities.
Georgia Grown label so there are still plenty of great
and pasture raised chickens from Brandon for quite a long time now and they are outstanding products!
local products out there that may not have become members yet.
a growing food movement
Our closing thoughts on eating local to save the world
If you care about nature, people and your
Long before the term locavore existed, we knew
your plate. Local, seasonal, and poison free aren’t
mullet tasted best when caught at dawn close to home and fried up fresh for a breakfast of fish and grits. And that peaches were a treat that we had to wait till July to enjoy here in South Georgia. If you really want to bring someone around to your point of view then feed them local shrimp, wild
community (and we know you do!) then you will conserve it. And you can start with what you put on just tastier but better for us and the planet too. So, support your neighbors. Just think if you eat some local eggs and veggies and fruit for breakfast you have done something powerful. Local is the new standard! Eating close to home is good for the soul and the planet. And it’s yummy!
blackberries or amazing vegetables from the local farmers market.
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Southern SOIL
Ask the
EXPERTS
Compost
by LeeAnna Tatum
Environmentally conscious couple Michael and
purchased for collecting appropriate food waste
Maria Wedum are on a mission to help the City
and exchanged on a weekly basis for an empty
of Savannah divert food scraps from the landfill
bucket.
and restore the depleted soils of the area’s local
28
farms. The couple founded COR Composting (COR
For those who want to compost for their own use
stands for Code of Return) two years ago with a
in the garden or who don’t live in Savannah, the
simple principle in mind - close the loop!
couple offers free consultations by phone or email.
COR Composting not only works with restaurants
I spoke with Maria to learn more about backyard
and businesses to keep their food waste out
composting and to put together some basic
of landfills, but they also work with individuals.
information to encourage anyone who might be
For those who live within their service area
thinking of composting and answer some basic
in Savannah, a COR Compost bucket can be
questions a new composter might have.
a growing food movement What is compost? Composting is the decomposition of organic based material. And when I say “organic” it’s what was
for someone who is interested in gardening, but compost has so many environmental benefits … I could ramble on for hours.
once living or carbon-based. The process is done
Reducing greenhouse gasses is an important
by micro-organisms that feed off these sources
one. The reason why it’s so effective in reducing
and then creates a final product full of nutrients and
greenhouse gasses is with composting you have
the kind of texture and mass that is really great for
the natural process of decomposition in the forest.
a growing medium for plants.
You have the perfect process of it in its natural form, so you still get the carbon cycle with that.
Why is composting important?
The problem with food waste being diverted into landfills is it creates an anaerobic process which
You may feel that as one person, you’re not going
emits very harmful greenhouse gas emissions.
to make a difference. But if we all take that little
And on those large levels, it makes a really large
bit of change, little bit of accountability and take
difference in the environment.
back that power, we can create positive solutions for the future and resiliency for yourself and your community and that’s super inspiring. A lot of people think that compost is only important
With that being said, composting can cut back almost 98% of those emissions and also odors which are associated with landfills. So there’s lots (con tinued on page 30)
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of positive benefits of that when you’re talking
avid gardener and want to use it regularly or just
about a large amount of waste from a society.
wanting to keep it out of the landfill and could use
We have to, at a certain point, come up with a better way - a more efficient way - to process our waste. Get it out of a linear cycle and get it into a circular
it once a year? How much money do you want to put in it? Does it need to meet certain homeowner requirements for appearance?
cycle where we’re actually creating a regenerative
I try to ask as many questions as possible and
natural resource.
make it as customized as possible so that people
And that’s what’s so awesome about compost! It’s
won’t get overwhelmed and will keep doing it.
not waste anymore, it’s a valuable resource. We all
Don’t be intimidated and depending on
have the waste and we have to figure out what to
expectations, it can be as involved or uninvolved as
do with it and to do this solves so many parts of
possible.
those problems that are out there.
It’s good to have an enclosure that can allow air
Compost can also help conserve water, decrease
flow … what all living things need - food, air and
the need for chemicals and help build and improve
water. It can be as simple as a pile, a purchased
the health of soil.
compost bin, or an enclosure you make yourself. For backyard composting there are a few limitations, mostly due to odors and time to breakdown. The general rule you want to think
30
about is “if it grows, it goes”. So any natural, organic based product for the most part you can compost that. For typical backyard compost, you usually will want to leave meats and dairy out of the equation because those animal proteins are hard to break down and you don’t always have the most efficient results. How can I get started?
Fruits, veggies, coffee grounds, tea, egg shells,
We try to encourage someone who has backyard
spices. You can do things like nuts and rinds if not
space and would like to do composting. We offer
excessively - they might not break down as quickly
a lot of free consultations by email or phone. And
as fruits and vegetables.
also, we do site consultations as well.
What’s important to understand is most of your
Composting can be very simple but there are a lot
food waste coming from your kitchen is nitrogen
of different ways that it can be done depending
based, so you’ll need to add equal amounts of
on how quickly you want it turned over. Are you an
carbon to that nitrogen. So, whatever you put in as
a growing food movement
far as your food waste, you want to make sure that
What if I want to keep my food waste out of the
you’re adding typically some of the drier materials
landfill but don’t have the space/time/desire to
like leaves, straw, wood chips, different paper
compost it myself?
products. You just want to make sure that you’re shredding those things up a little bit more. If you’re not going to be super active with mixing it
I try to think of different ways people can divert food waste like reaching out to gardening clubs. People who are really avid and geeky about composting - they might be interested in taking your food waste. Or find out what a community garden in your area might be doing, some of them have a compost bin. Or you could look into starting
and working
one up in your neighborhood.
it to break it
Keeping food waste out of the landfill is the
down more quickly. And you’re just wanting to divert the food waste, just use lasagna layering technique. Put down a carbon layer of straw and then food waste, then straw… that will keep bugs and animals out, keep the smell down and act as a bio-filter.
important thing. If you live in the Savannah area, be sure to check out COR Compost’s residential collection program every Saturday at Forsyth Market. For more information visit their website! 31
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Matthew and his father Ulious Raiford enjoying Matthew’s apple turnovers which he learned to make from his father.
Photography excerpted from Bress ‘n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth-Generation Farmer. Copyright © 2021 CheFarmer Matthew Raiford and Amy Paige Condon. Photography © 2021 by Siobhán Egan. Reproduced by permission of The Countryman Press, a Division of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.
a growing food movement
Chef and Farmer Matthew Raiford:
Embodying the Diversity of Coastal Georgia’s Cuisine
by LeeAnna Tatum
Though not what most people typically think of when they think of Southern cuisine, Matthew Raiford’s cooking is, in fact, a reflection of Coastal Georgia’s diversity of culinary influences and the vast array of foods that are grown, raised, foraged, hunted and fished for here in Southeast Georgia. Matthew grew up in the kitchens of generations of cooks in his family: his mother, aunts, grandmothers and even his great grandmother. Living on his mother’s family farm, Matthew also grew up deeply rooted in the land and waterways of his ancestors and was always closely connected to his food sources. From his earliest memories of foraging for wild blackberries around the farm to his first job working in the deli/bakery at the local Piggly Wiggly, Matthew was always interested in food. But his path to a culinary career was not certain from the start. “My dad was a baker by trade in the early 50s and 60s and I really wanted to go into cooking right out of high school,” Matthew recalled. “But my dad was like, ‘that ain’t a place for you son’.” (con tinued on page 3 4)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 33)
Matthew explained that while his dad was an
unable to get a job as a baker due to his race,
accomplished professional baker, as a Black man
despite his expertise.
during that time - the kitchen was not a place where he could get ahead. In fact, when the family
Discouraged from pursuing a culinary career
had returned to Georgia in the 70s, his father was
but eager to leave the farm, Matthew joined the military and spent time overseas in Germany and the Middle East. During that time, Matthew sought out new culinary experiences and was exposed to new flavors and cooking techniques. He also enjoyed cooking meals for his fellow servicemen and women who were hungry for some homecooked comfort foods. Even after leaving the military and pursuing an education, Matthew couldn’t get over his desire to cook. So, he eventually ended up in culinary school and hasn’t
34
looked back since.
Matthew Raiford serving up some Gilliard Farms Lowcountry Boil. You can find the recipe on page 103 of his cookbook. This month, Matthew’s first cookbook is hitting the shelves. Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth-Generation Farmer weaves together recipes and stories drawn from Matthew’s lifetime of culinary experiences. “I wanted to write a cookbook Photography excerpted from Bress ‘n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a SixthGeneration Farmer. Copyright © 2021 CheFarmer Matthew Raiford and Amy Paige Condon. Photography © 2021 by Siobhán Egan. Reproduced by permission of The Countryman Press, a Division of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.
that was indicative of ... Coastal Georgia,” Matthew said. “Because there aren’t a lot of cookbooks
a growing food movement
written about Coastal Georgia or the agriculture
the islands at all,” Matthew explained. “But it’s
that comes off of Coastal Georgia … And if there is,
interesting listening to my family talk now and
it’s really seafood heavy and that’s about it.”
realizing that some of those words that were being used were part of that dialect.”
“I just wanted to cover the farming and how I grew up here Gullah Geechee and how it has shaped my
“Even using the calling through the woods which
tastebuds for food,” Matthew continued. “Those are
is what Nana, my great grandmother … it’s what
some of the most exciting things about doing the
everybody would do,” he continued. “They’d call you
book. And having the name Bress ‘N’ Nyam which
through the woods. Instead of just hollering your
means ‘bless and eat’ in Gullah Geechee just meant
name it would be sung almost and it would carry
everything to me.”
through the woods. You’d hear it and know that it was time to go back home.”
Matthew’s Gullah Geechee heritage is important to him as an adult but as a child, the language and
“A lot of those habits and ways and even the way
culture was just something ingrained in his daily
we grow food here has always been part of that
life.
culture, which is my culture.”
“I was always considered a freshwater Geechee because I lived on the mainland, I didn’t live on
(con tinued on page 36)
35
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2021
Photography excerpted from Bress ‘n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth-Generation Farmer. Copyright © 2021 CheFarmer Matthew Raiford and Amy Paige Condon. Photography © 2021 by Siobhán Egan. Reproduced by permission of The Countryman Press, a Division of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 35)
One of the most important things that Matthew hopes readers will take away from his book is that Southern food is much more complex and varied than how it’s usually portrayed. “Southern food is a lot more than just shrimp and grits and collard greens… there’s this massive amount of other things in there,” Matthew asserted. “The first time I fried chicken for an event, I actually had to have someone show me how to fry chicken. I understood the battering and frying part, but I didn’t get how it was supposed to have any flavor with being marinated for a day or two. I was like, I didn’t grow up eating it like that.” 36
On the farm, chickens were kept for their eggs - so, cooking fried chicken was a very rare thing. When it was done, the meat was from an older bird and needed to be tenderized with a marinade. Matthew included a recipe for his Two-Day Fried Chicken. Also contrary to some Southern stereotypes, the cookbook is filled with veggie-centric recipes.
Dispelling the myth that all greens have to be cooked with meat, Matthew’s recipe for Mess O’ Greens (on page 56) “ain’t got no meat in it!” there’s no meat. There’s no meat in the greens,” he reiterated. “It’s funny because my daddy was like, ‘so, you’re
“There are a ton of vegetable recipes in there
going to put a recipe in your cookbook that ain’t got
and that’s not normally what people think of with
no meat in it?’ He did it very like, ‘boy, you’re stupid.’
Southern … when they think of that they think of
And I was like, ‘but daddy we didn’t always have
sides - but I make these the star!”
meat … the meat wasn’t always the star, just a piece of meat. And the meat was usually smoked to give
“One of my running jokes,” Matthew continued, “I
it a smokey flavor. It wasn’t supposed to be meat
have my recipe for Mess of Greens in there - and
and greens.”
a growing food movement
While his dad may have been skeptical about
“I want people to think that there’s a lot to Southern
including a recipe for greens without meat, he
food and I want people to think about Georgia and
was impressed with Matthew’s recipe for apple
think about it in all of its grandeur … Everybody has
turnovers.
a different lens. I wanted to make sure that my book had its own lens. And when people look at
“There’s actually a picture of my dad and I (in
it and start cooking the recipes, I want people to
the book) where he’s actually tasting that apple
think, ‘I’ve never had it this way before!’ I want those
turnover that I made,” Matthew said. “He said, ‘if Ii’d
kinds of conversations,” Matthew said.
known then what i know now, I would have made you go to culinary school.’ I think that was the
Along those lines, Matthew will be joining Southern
biggest joy for me in doing this cookbook … getting
Soil’s team of contributors in order to share his
this approval from my dad.”
insights into Georgia’s diverse food systems. As both a chef and a farmer (or CheFarmer), Matthew
Aside from rethinking what
hopes to be able to offer tips and observations
qualifies as “traditional
soil systems across the State.
Southern food”, Matthew also wants to get people thinking about the bounty and diversity of Georgia agriculture. “I wanted to show all the things that we can eat,” Matthew said. “What is it like to grow fresh herbs, what is it like to have all these wonderful things … We have a super long growing season here on the coast, so I can have early harvest watermelons and late harvest watermelons. I can have pumpkins early in the year and pumpkins at the end of the year.” “I have (a recipe for) rabbit fricassee in there,” Matthew continued, “ and most people aren’t
regarding growing cycles, seasonal produce and
Matthew returned to his family farm near Brunswick in 2011 when his Nana handed over the title to him and his sister Althea. Though the land had lain fallow for about 15 years, they have worked to slowly bring it back into production. This year, rice and Sea Island Red Peas are being grown together in the Reezy-Peezy field. Fruit trees have been planted and wild berries abound. “There’s wild blackberries all over the farm,” Matthew said. “When I was a kid, that used to be the deal - to bring back the most blackberries that we could get so my nana would give us some money. It’s that time of year and I am loving the blackberries and huckleberries that are coming on right now. I’m loving berry life!”
going to expect me to be talking about rabbit. But I have letters between my grandmother and great grandmother that are literally just about rabbits and hunting rabbits.
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2021
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Southern SOIL
38
Wax myrtle fruit Photo Credit: Ellen Honeycutt
a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: Wax Myrtle morella cerifera
By Erin Cork erin.cork@gmail.com
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.
Having lived in the Georgia Piedmont for most of
maintains its role as a parking lot tree in its home
my life, I was familiar with southern wax myrtle as a
range, as well.
specimen species or a hedge occasionally used in formal public landscapes. Rarely could I walk past one of these planted parking lot beauties without plucking and crunching some of the aromatic leaves or stripping a limb of a few frosty grey-blue berries to squish and smell on my walk. Also known as bayberry or southern wax myrtle, its native range stretches from southern New Jersey through much of the coastal plain west to Texas.
General Description Wax myrtle can take the shape of a single-to-manystemmed shrub or small tree, typically around 10 to 20 feet tall. The bark is smooth and light gray, often covered with lichens, and the multiple stems twist and arc, creating shrubby cover from the ground up. Its form is highly variable and can be influenced by site characteristics or strategic pruning.
While it has been introduced beyond its native range, southern wax myrtle (Morella cerifera) is most at home in the sandy soils of the coastal plain, and especially on the Georgia coast where I moved this past year. Here, I now see it in more forms and in more habitats than I would have ever imagined – in freshwater swamps, on dry upland forests, in brackish marsh, delineating boundaries between property lines and untamed forests, and domesticated in more formal gardens and landscapes. It is the most common shrub in longleaf pine-slash pine communities, and it
As screening along driveway Photo Credit: Erin Cork Leaves are glossy yellow-green to olive green and are evergreen, with the duller leaves of last year (con tinued on page 4 0)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 39)
joined by new, brighter and glossier growth which
grow in its wild, shrubby form, wax myrtle provides
emerges in early spring. Small chartreuse flowers
excellent cover for birds, rabbits, turtles, and other
on both male and female plants bloom as early as
small mammals, reptiles, and amphibians.
March and April, followed by clusters of blue-grey berries which appear in late summer and persist through winter.
In the Garden Wax myrtle is often used as a screening hedge and is an excellent substitute for some of the more commonly planted exotic invasive plant species, such as Asian privets (Ligustrum species) or Autumn olive (Eleagnus species). With its more open structure (particularly when planted in more shaded areas), it can be used on its own as a natural or sculpted hedge, as a part of a mixed hedge, or as a backdrop along borders. Some pruning of lower limbs may be necessary to
Wax myrtle as a formal hedge Photo Credit: William King
allow more diminutive shrubs or wildflowers to fill in the gaps. The light shade of wax myrtle and its tendency to grow arcing stems makes it a good
40
Wildlife Value While not all birds can digest the waxy coated
pondside planting, but it could also be pruned to accommodate a bird bath or other small water feature.
fruits, wax myrtle’s berries are an important winter food source for many species, including the yellowrumped warbler, kinglets, bobwhite quail, and wild turkey. The plant’s natural growth habit is less dense than many shrubs, and its more open foliage allows filtered light to reach the ground, providing excellent cover, perches, and nesting sites for many small birds. Wax myrtle is a host plant for the red-banded hairstreak butterfly, and it is a plant often used by some of our impressive silk moth species. Scanning the foliage at night with a flashlight is the
Wax myrtles flowering. Photo Credit: Erin Cork
best way to find cocoons or emerging silk moth species of Polyphemus moths, luna moths, and
The waxy coating of the berries was once used to
other large silk moth species. When permitted to
make bayberry candles, and the aromatic oils found
a growing food movement
in the stems and the leaves of the plant make wax myrtle quite flammable. Like pine straw, hollies, and other flammable plants and materials, wax myrtle should be planted at least 30 feet away from wooden structures, including fences or decks.
General Care Wax myrtle will thrive in full sun when allowed to adhere to its natural growth habit, but healthy individuals are also found in part shade and in more interior, shaded forests. Wax myrtle can be limbed up to remove lower branches for a tree-like stature or sheared to achieve a more uniform shape if desired. Mowing along the edge or planting in mulched beds can keep any thicketing tendencies in check. Wax myrtle are hardy plants and can endure tough conditions, including drought, salt, strong winds, periodic flooding, and deer herbivory. Cold hardy for USDA Zones 7-10.
Availability At some nurseries, you may find that only female
41
Silk moth cocoon on wax myrtle Photo Credit: Erin Cork
wax myrtle plants are available – these are the plants that are most often desired for their blue-
related species, dwarf wax myrtle (Morella pumila),
grey berries. Both male and female plants will
is also commonly available at nurseries. While it is
produce dense clusters of chartreuse flowers in
more rarely observed in natural plant communities,
late winter/early spring, but both male and female
this plant is often incorporated into landscaping
plants are required for fertilization each year. A
where its smaller stature is desired.
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Southern SOIL
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Grilled Panzanella for Your Memorial Day Menu Cooking a meal for someone you love is one of
else. Despite my Grandpa’s insistence that she have
the greatest expressions of care and appreciation.
a seat and join us at the table, her main concern
We’ve long shown love in the South by feeding
was taking good care of her family, ensuring we
each other. As a child, I can remember going
enjoyed every morsel, and offering us seconds.
to my Grandma Dot’s house for supper and the
She eventually sat down, but it wasn’t until she was
excitement and anticipation of it all. As soon as
satisfied and everyone was happily eating. I didn’t
you entered her home, the sounds of her knife
know it then, but those early childhood memories
chopping against the cutting board and the smell of
would shape my love for food and entertaining, and
buttermilk biscuits baking in the oven, (or cathead
go a long way in teaching me how to take care of
biscuits as my Daddy would say), wafted from
the people in my life.
the kitchen. While she put the final touches on the meal, the family mingled in the living room and
In this issue, I’m sharing the recipe for my Grilled
helped out if there was anything to be done. The
Panzanella Salad, a Tuscan salad of bread and
table was set and everyone gathered around the
tomatoes; a celebration of spring and summertime
table to bow their heads and say the blessing.
in a bowl. With Memorial Day weekend upon us, as well as Father’s Day, it would be the absolute
The meal, often of pork chops or baked spaghetti,
perfect complement to your outdoor menu, such as
was always from scratch, home-cooked and served
grilled hamburgers and a fresh fruit tart.
family style where dishes were passed around the table until everyone’s plates were filled. Being
The thing that makes this salad extra special is
the gracious host that she is, Grandma acted as
the combination of grilled and raw vegetables.
a sort of waitress throughout the meal, filling tea glasses and asking if she could get us anything
(con tinued on page 4 4)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 4 3)
The tomatoes and cucumbers are simply chopped
Visit SomeKindaGood.com for a video
and seasoned, and the fresh herbs add such
demonstration on how-to cook this recipe, and if
an aromatic and pungent bite. Right now at the
you enjoy it, be sure to pick up a copy of my best-
Farmers Market, baby yellow squash and zucchini
selling memoir wherever books are sold.
are abundant, along with bright purple radishes. Traditionally, bell peppers are featured in the salad,
Have a Happy Memorial Day and remember to
but by all means, use whatever vegetables you
support the local farmers who work hard to grow
enjoy. This recipe is a guide for the most colorful
the abundant fruits and vegetables we are so
flavor combinations you can imagine.
fortunate to have in our local community.
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Grilled Panzanella Salad •
1 large red bell peppers, quartered
•
1/2 cup torn fresh basil
•
1 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise
•
Balsamic Vinegar
•
1 medium Red Onion, quartered
•
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
•
1 cucumber, sliced into half-moon pieces
•
Kosher Salt
•
2 medium tomatoes, halved
•
Freshly Ground Black Pepper
•
1 loaf of French or Italian bread, halved
•
Fresh Parmesan, if desired
lengthwise
Brush grill with olive oil, season vegetables with kosher salt and black pepper. Grill bell peppers, zucchini and onion for about 4-5 minutes, turning once until grill marks are visible. Chop the grilled vegetables into bite size pieces and place them in a large mixing bowl. Meanwhile, drizzle the bread with olive oil and grill over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes.
45
Add the chopped tomatoes and cucumber into the same bowl. Remove bread from grill, cut into cubes and toss together with the vegetables. Drizzle the mixture with equal parts of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, just enough to dress the salad lightly, and season with more salt and pepper. Add in fresh basil and grate fresh Parmesan cheese over the top.
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Southern SOIL
Yay! No “Pay to Play” Here! 46
Here at Southern Soil, we don’t engage in the “pay to play” method of choosing content. In other words, we will NEVER require you to pay a fee or purchase advertising in order to be featured in this magazine. Our content decisions are driven by our shared values of sustainably produced foods: ethically and humanely raised animals, responsible use of natural resources and conscientious choices for the health of the animals, the planet and the humans too. We strive to provide content that will engage, entertain and educate our readers. We are not here to promote only those who can afford advertising, we’re here to support a community and regional movement - a growing food movement in Southeast Georgia. So, as we like to say, “pull up a chair and join the conversation!” We appreciate our advertisers and rely on that revenue to keep this conversation going. And we certainly invite you to be a part of our advertising family and help us continue to share great stories of local people doing their part to improve our local food system. But we will never deny you a seat at this table for choosing not to advertise!
Th
orm w k oo B e
a growing food movement
reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF BRESS ‘N’ NYAM: GULLAH GEECHEE RECIPES FROM A SIXTH GENERATION FARMER BY MATTHEW RAIFORD WITH AMY PAIGE CONDON Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth Generation Farmer written by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon takes readers through Raiford’s culinary journey: from a childhood surrounded by good cooks to his military career and exposure to cuisines and food traditions around the world and back to his deep roots on the family farm and Gullah Geechee heritage.
to sophisticated and simple (3-ingredient biscuits) to complicated (how to host a pig roast). Bress ‘N’ Nyam welcomes the reader into Raiford’s personal history with food and provides a valuable perspective into the South’s rich and varied food culture. 47
“Bress ‘N’ Nyam” is Gullah for “bless and eat” which gets right to the heart of Raiford’s family food traditions. Peppered with personal stories with heaps of cultural and historical references, this cookbook provides a deep look into the cuisine of Coastal Georgia Southern cooking that goes way beyond stereotypical foods like fried chicken (but there’s a 2-day recipe for that too!). Raiford goes back to his roots with recipes like Blackberry Doobie, a cobbler his Nan would make using fresh-picked blackberries foraged from around the family farm; and weaves in recipes and techniques picked up along the way like Snapper on the Half Shell. Organized in categories by their elemental source, the book is divided into sections: earth, water, fire, wind, nectar and spirits. Raiford’s recipes range from rustic
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