Issue
3
2018
Southern
SOIL a grrowing fooood mo m J A N U A R Y / F EvBeRm U Ae eRnnYt2 0 1 8
Southern SOIL
Have you heard?!? No “pay to play”! Here at Southern Soil, we don’t engage in the “pay to play” method of choosing content. In other words, we will NEVER require you to pay a fee or purchase advertising in order to be featured in this magazine. 2
Our content decisions are driven by our shared values of sustainably produced foods: ethically and humanely raised animals, responsible use of natural resources and conscientious choices for the health of the animals, the planet and the humans too. We strive to provide content that will engage, entertain and educate our readers. We are not here to promote only those who can afford advertising, we’re here to support a community and regional movement - a growing food movement in Southeast Georgia. So, as we like to say, “pull up a chair and join the conversation!” We appreciate our advertisers and rely on that revenue to keep this conversation going. And we certainly invite you to be a part of our advertising family and help us continue to share great stories of local people doing their part to improve our local food system. But we will never deny you a seat at this table for choosing not to advertise!
Contents
a growing food movement
04
08
16
EDITORIAL
SOUTHERN SWISS DAIRY
BYNE BLUEBERRY FARM
22
26
34
HUNTER CATTLE
SOME KINDA GOOD IN BETHESDA ACADEMY THE NEIGHBORHOOD
PAGE 04 \ FAMILY CONNECTIONS AT WORK
PAGE 22 \ FARM OFFERS EDUCATIONAL TOURS
12......TABLE TALK 14......THE BOOKWORM
PAGE 08 \ GENERATIONS OF FARMERS AT WORK
PAGE 26 \ COOKING LOCAL WITH REBEKAH FAULK LINGENFELSER
PAGE 16 \ LEADING THE WAY IN ORGANIC FARMING
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PAGE 34 \ GROWING TOMORROW’S LEADERS
30......PHOTO ESSAY 39......BUSINESS INDEX
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Southern SOIL
Editorial
In this issue, I get to introduce you to two such
We all know that family relationships can be
in Burke County: the Byne family of Byne Blueberry
complicated and so can workplace relationships with bosses, employees and co-workers. But in family-run farms and businesses, things can get
family farms, both of which happen to be located Farm and the Franks of Southern Swiss Dairy. Two unique families with businesses that embrace their roots while building for the future and creating
interesting very quickly!
possibilities for generations to come.
Admittedly, not all families could make working
I am blessed to be able to work with my own sister
together work, but for those who do - the payoff can be deeper and more meaningful relationships,
here at Southern Soil. Kelly is the talented graphic designer who does a wonderful job of bringing to
quality time with parents, children and/or siblings, and multi-generational experiences that improve quality of life for young and old. Where else but on a family farm or in a familyrun business can young children truly learn the value of hard work, learn first hand about personal responsibility, gain experience working with people of all ages, and hone skills of real-world value for a 4
future trade or career?
Southern Soil Sisters
a growing food movement
life ideas on these pages that would otherwise be trapped in my head. And what I enjoy even more is when I have no ideas whatsoever and she comes up with something fabulous that instantly resonates. When each of us can play to our own strengths, we make a pretty great team! I can’t speak for her, but I know that I really enjoy our working relationship and think it brings a greater depth to what was already a wonderful sisterly bond. We don’t always agree, but since I generally get my way … I’m okay with that!
5
Our parents were missionaries in Mexico where our dad operated a printing ministry. From a young age, we (along with our brother) participated in the “family business”. I can remember working alongside my family on many occasions in that print shop and from those experiences, I learned a lot about hard work, attention to detail, following directions and working in harmony with others to accomplish a goal. Lessons that have served me well throughout my life. Pull up a chair and join me in this issue as we celebrate, not only the small farms, but the families behind them that help bring great food to the table!
My Dad and Brother in the Print Shop
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
ISSUE ~3 ~ 2018
Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
FOL L OW US www.southernsoil.org
C ONTAC T US 6
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a growing food movement
Grow Movement the
Talk to your city and/or county representatives about diverting plant debris to a compost heap instead of adding it to a landfill. Don’t be a fair-weather friend, support your local farmers’ market in good weather and bad! The vendors rely on local turnout to keep making their products available. Encourage the grocery stores and restaurants you patronise to source and/or provide local ingredients. Use the Business Index in this Magazine and on the website to find and support local businesses near you who are sourcing, growing or producing food locally. Help us spread the word and reach more people in Southeast Georgia by connecting with us on social media and sharing this magazine with friends and family. 7
Southern, Coastal Recipes & Restaurant Reviews with a Local, Seasonal Focus Food Enthusiast and Georgia native Rebekah Lingenfelser is the creative force behind the blog, SomeKindaGood.com. Connect with Some Kinda Good on social media and tune in to Food Network to watch her compete on Season 14 of Food Network Star, Sundays at 9 p.m.
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Southern SOIL
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a growing food movement
Southern Swiss Dairy: generations of farmers at work by LeeAnna Tatum I recently had the pleasure of meeting the ladies of Southern Swiss Dairy - and I don’t just mean the doe-eyed Brown Swiss cows that produce the rich tasting milk for which the dairy is known. I also got to meet the fourth, fifth and future sixth generation dairy farmers: Ginny, her daughter Whitney and granddaughter Leeann. I have admittedly been a customer for many years. The first glass of Southern Swiss whole milk that
of the best parts of buying local, even if you don’t
I drank was a reminder of what real milk should
make a visit to the farm, you could. And knowing
taste like, not the watered down, homogenized stuff
that simple fact can make all the difference for
I had become accustomed to from the grocery
buyers and producers. That connection is the start
store. I won’t even get started on the chocolate milk
of something remarkable - a sense of responsibility
that dreams are made of, or the seasonally avail-
for the producers to have a product and a pro-
able eggnog for which I have driven many miles in
cess they can stand by, and sense of trust for the
my efforts to round up an elusive jug around the
consumers, knowing their food source is in good
holidays.
hands.
One of the reasons I started my own journey
Here in Georgia, we don’t have a lot of dairies and
toward local food about a decade ago was out of
even fewer that have bottling facilities on site. But
concern for the welfare of animals that are part
we are fortunate to have Southern Swiss Dairy right
of our food system. And that includes more than
here in our little corner of the State. They use low-
just ones we eat. The dairy industry, it turns out,
temp pasteurization, a process that kills harmful
can be one of the worst abusers with documented
bacteria but allows the helpful bacteria to remain.
cases of cruelty especially against new born male
The process keeps the milk non-homogenous (al-
calves which are often an unwanted side-effect
lowing the cream to rise to the top) and maintains
since cows must give birth to produce milk. I’m not
much more of the natural flavor (you’ll notice it
saying the entire industry is guilty of mistreatment,
from the very first sip!).
but when you buy a gallon of milk at the store - how can you know?
Though there’s not a lot of scientific research into the health benefits of low heat pasteurization there
That’s why it was important for me to find a local
is a lot of anecdotal evidence that suggests it is
source for dairy, produced by people who respect-
easier to digest. Many people with lactose intoler-
ed and nurtured the animals in their care. It’s one
ance find that they don’t have the same problems (con tinued on page 10)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 9)
meet the people who make it possible. Southern Swiss Dairy is owned by the Franks, Jimmy and Ginny. The couple, along with their daughter Whitney and her husband Ryan, work long hours with few days off providing dairy products to a niche market that they have developed over the years. Ginny is a fourth-generation dairy farmer who didn’t set digesting milk and other dairy products when it has
out to follow in the family business. She left her
been processed this way.
family farm and went to college, earned her mas-
When they first took over the dairy which they now own in Burke County, the Franks did not bottle onsite but sold to a dairy cooperative. This left 10
them vulnerable to significant price drops which
ter’s degree and was doing research with embryo transfers in cattle when she and Jimmy met. Jimmy was originally from South Georgia and was involved in the beef cattle business.
threatened their business. Adding the creamery on
After the couple married and had their first child,
site enabled them to skip the co-op and sell direct
they decided to move back to Ginny’s family farm
to customers.
in South Carolina and from then on were involved
By opting out of the dairy co-op the Franks chose
in the dairy business. Eventually moving back to
to target their dairy products to a niche market
Georgia and purchasing the dairy they have now.
instead. Hoping that by selling to a more selective
Whitney, like her mother before her, also grew up on
customer base they could leverage a higher and more stable price for their milk and dairy products. There are two ways the Franks have chosen to stand out in the marketplace. First is the low-heat pasteurization which produces a better tasting and arguably healthier dairy product. The other is by using Brown Swiss cows as their milk producers. The Swiss cows have a higher protein content in their milk, giving it a richer taste.
a dairy farm and knew she wanted to do something within agriculture but didn’t intend to follow in the family business. Earning her degree and setting out to make her own way, circumstances intervened to draw Whitney back to the dairy. Now, as she works alongside her parents and husband, she is happy to be raising her own baby on the family farm. And like her mother and the five generations before her, little Leeann will grow up learning responsibility
So, now that you know a little about the dairy and
at a young age. Understanding that the animals on
the products that come from there, it’s time to
the farm come first, because they rely on her and
a growing food movement
her family for everything. From twice-daily milkings
our local economies and - even more importantly
to food and water, the cows, and therefore the
- by nurturing and preparing the next generation of
farmers who care for them, don’t get weekends off.
farmers to bring good food to our tables.
Cows don’t recognize holidays or know that Saturdays are meant for sleeping in! For farm families like the Franks, the work is hard and it never stops. But it also gives them the opportunity to come together in ways that most families will never understand. It gives them time together and a chance to learn, bond and connect through multiple generations. Southern Swiss Dairy is a wonderful example of a farm and a family that are dedicated to putting out a quality product while practicing good stewardship of the animals and resources in their care. Unfortunately, as with many of these wonderful producers right here in our own backyards, they rely on customers outside the immediate area to keep their business going. While this wonderful local
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product is being sold to a growing number of customers in Atlanta, many neighbors right nearby are missing out and reaching instead for milk that has been shipped in from, frankly, who knows where! If local businesses, stores, schools, restaurants and consumers actively supported family farms like Southern Swiss Dairy, these farms could not only survive but thrive here in our communities. Thriving family farms not only supply our local food system with healthier and more nutritious alternatives, but they also strengthen our communities by keeping more money in
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Southern SOIL
Table Talk
Bush started his own garden to feed his growing obsession with fresh food and soon had more than enough for his own needs and was able to produce enough to become a vendor at the Forsyth Market. When the position for Executive Director became available it just seemed like the perfect fit as he had spent most of his career working in the nonprofit sector and then working as a producer himself.
E 12
ACH ISSUE OF SOUTHERN SOIL FEA-
“I spent so much of my adult life in the nonprofit
TURES A CONVERSATION WITH INDI-
world. And then I had taken a few years as a farmer
VIDUALS REPRESENTING DIFFERENT
and it just seemed like the perfect combination of
PERSPECTIVES ALONG THE FOOD SUPPLY
my two worlds. I felt like I had a better opportunity
LINE. THIS ISSUE FEATURES JEB BUSH. BUSH
to advocate for farmers in this role than just being a
CURRENTLY SERVES AS THE EXECUTIVE DI-
farmer myself,” Bush explained.
RECTOR OF THE FORSYTH FARMERS MARKET IN SAVANNAH. HAVING PREVIOUSLY BEEN A
Bush is optimistic about our local food systems,
VENDOR, BUSH HAS A UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE
but stresses the importance of community involve-
ON THE LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM IN SOUTHEAST
ment and consumer choices.
GEORGIA ESPECIALLY IN THE SAVANNAH AREA.
“We’ve got a really big opportunity right now to help
Bush’s local food journey started when he was a
sitting in a really good spot right now where we
child eating fresh foods grown right at home, but he
could do a lot more. It just takes continued com-
took a detour away from that tradition as a young
munity support to make it happen. Without com-
adult.
munity support, the farmers’ market doesn’t exist.
farmers and help our community,” Bush said. “We’re
It’s so important for people to come out even if it’s “Growing up, daddy always had a big garden. We
hot, even if it’s rainy. It’s so important for people to
always ate food straight off the farm … it was
come out and support those farmers every week.”
normal to have that. and then I went to college and moved up north for a few years and totally got
The following is Bush’s perspective on a series of
away from that and didn’t really think anything of it
questions regarding the sustainable, local food
until I moved back and had some fresh local food
system in Southeast Georgia.
and thought, ‘oh my gosh this is so good!’.”
a growing food movement
What does the current food system look like here
food system should look like here in Southeast
in Southeast Georgia?
Georgia?
In many ways, the food system is great. Every
What would be perfect? Local food being the norm
Saturday 3000-4000 people show up at the Forsyth
instead of something we do on the side. Some
Farmers’ Market. We then can go grab wonderful
examples would be grocery stores purchasing from
food at a handful of restaurants in the area that are
local farmers at a fair price. Or we could have more
sourcing ingredients from local vendors. We also
grocery stores whose sole purpose is to purchase
have great stores like Brighter Day where you can
local. What would be amazing is to have enough
purchase fresh, local produce.
demand that we have a market open 7 days a
Unfortunately, in many ways it is inequitable, not
week. The local food scene also involves people
reaching into low income, low access communities or into rural areas. The Forsyth Farmers’ Market is doing its part to improve access through our SNAP doubling and our Farm Truck 912 programs, but so much more can be done to allow more people to have access to local produce.
having ownership over their food. We need neighbors to work together to grow produce and create products to make communities self-sustaining. What changes need to occur to make that transition? We need to be mindful of our decisions. As we
What do you think a locally sourced, sustainable
make our purchasing decisions and speak with our (con tinued on page 24)
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Th
Southern SOIL
orm w k oo B e
reading the best and weeding the rest
A
REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF HOW TO GROW A SCHOOL GARDEN BY ARDEN BUCKLIN-SPORER AND RACHEL KATHLEEN PRINGLE
This how-to book provides a lot of information for parents and teachers who might be interested in starting a school garden. 14
With lots of references and practical guides, this book is a useful resource from planning to pitching, fundraising to scheduling and site selection to student achievement. The authors did a good job of breaking down what could otherwise be an overwhelming amount of information. The division into chapters and sections with lots of illustrations, photos, graphs and informational boxes helps to lead readers through the many steps needed for a successful venture. A practical guide backed by lots of real-world experience, this book could be a valuable tool for starting and maintaining a school garden.
a growing food movement
A
REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF MOLLY’S ORGANIC FARM BY CAROL L. MALNOR AND TRINA L. HUNNER
Molly’s Organic Farm is a children’s book geared for ages four to ten which not only tells the story of a stray cat named Molly but also teaches some of the basics about organic growing methods. The book tells the true story of Molly who found her way onto an urban organic farm and made friends with everyone who worked there. Beautifully illustrated with watercolors, the authors take children through the farm via Molly’s senses as she sees, hears, feels, smells and tastes the experiences of life amongst the plants. The book also offers learning opportunities and further resources for teaching children about how plants grow and the synergistic relationship between all living things. Publishing company Dawn Publications
connects children with nature. Their website provides downloadable activities and teaching aids to help parents and teachers encourage children to connect with the earth and have respect for it.
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a growing food movement
Byne Blueberry Farm:
leading the way in organic farming
by LeeAnna Tatum
Dick Byne has been growing organic blueberries
decided to focus on choosing organic methods that
long before organic was trendy. In fact, when he
would build the soil rather than simply relying on
first started his organic blueberry farm in the late
chemical additives.
70s, he sold his crop in the conventional market because there simply was no market for organic
“If you start paying attention in class, you can learn
berries at that time. Byne was so far ahead of the
something,” Byne said. And he did pay attention. De-
curve that his is the oldest organic blueberry farm
spite the professors hippie appearance that was a
in the State and one of the oldest in the country,
clear indication to the younger Byne that he lacked
leading the way in an industry that is only just now
actual farm experience.
catching on here in the South.
“He comes walking into the class and he’s got long
Byne laments that there is still not much local
hair, glasses - this is 1976 - no baseball cap or
demand for his organic product, but he does now
farming tan from here down (indicating the fore-
have a market for it. His biggest buyer of fresh
arm). And I punched the guy next to me and said,
blueberries, Whole Foods, has enabled him to leave
‘this guy isn’t going to know anything about farm-
the conventional market and sell his produce at the
ing.’ But he knew theory… and that’s what you go to
higher price the more discerning market can bring.
college for is to learn theory,” Byne recollected.
Several things become clear when spending some
“The teacher said if you can raise the organic mat-
time with Byne on his farm. He really loves blue-
ter, you will need less water and you can hold on
berries. He takes a great deal of pride in the Byne
to the nutrients - and that just made sense to me.
family name and all that entails. He has a genuine
From that point on, that’s what I wanted to do was
respect and appreciation for the people who work
to raise the organic matter (in the soil).”
for him. And he feels a sense of responsibility to use his resources to their full potential. Agriculture is in Byne’s DNA. His father was a cotton farmer who also sold dairy equipment and got into the dairy business himself. Rooted in farming from his earliest years, Byne always knew that some form of agriculture was in his future. He just wasn’t sure exactly what it would be. To that end, Byne attended Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College. Byne recalls the moment he (con tinued on page 18)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 1 7)
Having decided to use natural methods of farming
to the waste, just more tonnage to be buried in the
instead of relying on chemical fertilizers and pes-
earth.
ticides, the next step was deciding which type of crop to grow. Not interested in growing commodity
But Byne saw the value in all that organic matter,
crops or planting trees, Byne settled on blueberries,
and saw the savings for the City he served as Coun-
sensing a coming change in America’s diet toward
cilman. At his suggestion, the City of Waynesboro
more fruits and vegetables.
began delivering their tree trimmings and lawn debris, previously slated to go to the landfill, to Byne’s
“I was the first commercial blueberry farm in the
farm. There it is piled like a monument to the circle
CSRA,” Byne said. “Nobody had a blueberry opera-
of life. It’s a place where the dead vegetation is
tion back then. If you follow the crowd, you’re just
given a chance at renewal: the opportunity to return
going to follow the crowd the rest of your life and I
to the earth, not as waste, but as organic matter
wanted to do something different.”
rich in nutrients that will feed the plants and build the soil.
And Byne is still doing things differently. It all goes back to that college professor and the
18
One major point of pride for Byne on his farm is
seed he planted in Byne’s ear about the soil’s need
something most people would probably just con-
to be replenished. Byne has seen his own soil
sider an eyesore - a heaping pile of decaying trees,
improved over the years he has worked the land, in-
shrubs, limbs and clippings. The mountain of debris
creasing from a half a percentage point of organic
was once a financial burden for the City of Waynes-
matter when he started to 5.6 percent today.
boro, costing thousands to take to the dump where it would serve no purpose beyond further adding
“This still blows my mind,” Byne stated emphati-
a growing food movement
the compost is being given away, but once a market is developed for it, it can become a revenue source for the City. Not only does Byne not use chemical fertilizers on his farm, but he also refrains from using pesticides. He takes pride in the fact that his land is a safe habitat for insects of all kinds - even the pests. Byne believes when left to their own devices, the insects will work things out, creating a balanced ecological system not requiring intervention. cally. “When you say you’ve got 1% organic matter,
He even discovered that vicious and much-hated
what I’m telling you is that I’ve got 20 thousand
fire ant could be an unlikely hero for his blueberry
pounds per acre. That just blows my mind… so that
bushes one season when a particularly aggressive
gives you an idea what it takes to get to 5.6 (per-
insect was decimating blueberry crops across
cent).”
Georgia. His own crops were left unscathed. As it turned out, the larva of that particular insect just
“When you go to Kentucky and they’ve got black
happened to be the fire ant’s favorite snack.
dirt - that’s 30 percent. So, you’re talking about 600 thousand pounds per acre of organic matter,
Who knew fire ants could have a redeeming quali-
so we’ve got a long way to go. I’d love to have 30
ty?
percent organic matter here and that dirt over there (gesturing to the mound of compost) will do that, because that’s nothing but 100% organic matter.” “We’ve got to be better,” he continued “… why are we throwing grass, limbs and leaves away when that’s basically free fertilizer? It’s just a matter of time. You will take it to a designated area and it will be nothing but a mulch pile. We’ll sell that as a municipality and make money from it.” The compost being generated on his land from the City’s debris has tested very high in phosphorus and potassium with a low but visible showing of the minor elements with a very low PH. At the moment, (con tinued on page 20)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 19
creating compost from debris is just one of the
He has come up with
ways that Byne likes to ensure that resources
a variety of products
around his farm are used to their fullest potential.
to appeal to different
Since entering the blueberry business, he has
tastes, because his
looked for ways to make sure every berry on his
goal is to ensure that
farm finds a home.
everyone learns to love blueberries! “My objective was trying to get everybody liking blueberries or something blueberry,” Byne explained. “So, the first products I came up with were jam, jelly and syrup. And then I branched out into desserts and got a sugar-free
“You are asked to farm whatever land you have in
syrup, I’ve also got a chocolate blueberry, Georgia
your hands. If it’s an acre, what are you doing with
Bar with blueberries in it, a blueberry salsa, and a
that acre? If you get 100 blueberries off and I sell
blueberry juice.”
90 of them fresh, what are you doing with the other 20
10? Well, I can tell people, I can use every berry … I
Byne Blueberry Farm has always been a family
really like the idea of selling everything that comes
farm. Having started the farm during the 70s with
off the farm. Because if you cannot sell it, then your
his father and brother, he now continues farm-
loss is taking away from your bottom line.”
ing with his own family. Though all four of his daughters grew up helping out with harvesting and
Since not all blueberries can make the cut in the
packaging, only Janie has returned to work along-
fresh berry market, Byne has been quite inventive
side her dad in the family operation. So far. There is
in finding new ways to use his blueberries and new
some lingering hope, it seems, that maybe others
products to entice even the most hesitant of blue-
will follow in her path.
berry eaters. Byne extended his farm business to include value added products for that very purpose. Realizing that eight percent of his berries did not make the grade for selling in the fresh berry market, Byne began creating products that could make use of those berries which due to size, imperfections or juiciness could not pass muster.
a growing food movement
Self-described as the more “uptight” of the two,
“I realized I just wasn’t passionate about that
Janie enjoys working with her more laid-back dad.
company… I do like HR, but I just wasn’t working for
“He’s laid-back and I’m a little more uptight, so I
a company that long-term, I didn’t care about their
think we even each other out good.” Byne can’t help
goals. The passion that I have for this (farm) didn’t
but agree. Admitting with some embarrassment
line up with where I was,” Janie explained.
that he really doesn’t like to have to be the “bad guy”, especially when dealing with employees.
Returning to her family’s farm was just the ticket for reigniting her passion.
But aside from occasionally having to take on the roll of bad cop, Janie has her own niche on the
“I’ve just always had a passion for it, I guess
farm. Bees.
because we grew up doing it our whole lives. This is what I’ve known since I was small. We’re really sentimental in our family and my granddad was out here when we were little ... When we were first starting out, me and my mom and my sisters would all go pick together to have enough berries for the farmer’s stands … From there,
There’s no doubt about it as Janie talks about “her
we started packing and we were able to get more
bees” that the hives, their busy inhabitants, and the
pickers. Just the journey and the slow progression,
honey they produce are clearly her domain. Not
we finally got into some good stores like Whole
only do the bees industriously aid in pollination, but
Foods ... I just love it!”
they also produce the best-selling product in the Byne Blueberry Farm product line - honey. Janie, the second oldest of the four Byne daughters, didn’t necessarily plan to follow in her father’s footsteps. But after receiving a degree in marketing from Georgia Southern University and working in Nashville for a few years, she decided that her job in HR for a company with which she didn’t gel was not a very fulfilling way to spend her days.
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Southern SOIL
Hunter Cattle Educational Tours Hunter Cattle Company, a grassfed beef and pasture-raised pork operation, offers a unique learning experience for kids. Educational tours allow children to learn more about where their food comes from and what it takes to care for the land and the plants and animals it supports. The Fergusons know a thing or two about bringing kids and farm life together to create an educational experience. The family started their farm about 15 years ago as a family venture and as the farm has grown, so has the family.
Adding educational tours was a natural progression that allows the farm to engage with the communi-
22
Kristan (Ferguson) Fretwell homeschools her own
ty and help others learn about the importance of
five kids on the farm which often involves putting
sustainably produced food. The tours give kids a
problem-solving skills, research, math and science
chance to experience the natural world in what is
to use with real-world issues on the farm. Educat-
often their first time on a farm.
ing others on farming practices and the differences between pasture-raised meats versus those con-
“That’s something that we, and me in particular are
ventionally produced became an integral part of the
passionate about. We saw the need for educating
selling process once the farm became a commer-
people in general early on when we started farm-
cial enterprise.
ing,� Kristan explained. The educational tours are one of the aspects of the farm with which Kristan has taken a lead role. She acknowledges the success of their family farm is due in large part to each member of the family having different skill sets and being given the opportunity to use those skills in a cooperative effort.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF KRISTAN FRETWELL
a growing food movement
“It has been so rewarding and so encouraging having all the way from pre-K to college age to adult legislatures having field trips out here,” Kristan said. The tour allows kids to gather eggs (and learn where they come from), dig around in the garden and discover the ways of taking “waste” products and making them useful. They have the chance to see cows grazing and learn about the importance of rotating
During the fall season, the farm will host two to
pastures and the role of healthy soil and healthy
three groups of children per week. Tours must be
grass in creating healthy meat for eating.
booked in advance and spaces fill up quickly. If you are an educator or parent interested in scheduling a
“Each part of our farm tour really gets down to what
tour, you can click here for more details.
the animal eats and why we want them to eat what
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they’re naturally supposed to eat because it’s better for the earth, it’s better for the animal, and it’s better for us when we consume them,” Kristan explained.
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dollars, we need to do so always thinking about
cess areas. This means that many of most finan-
who is this helping. Are we helping a farmer that
cially insecure, who do not have access to reliable
we know or at least know of? Or are we helping
transportation, also live more than a mile from a
some farmer across the country, a truck company,
grocery store.
a major grocery store conglomerate?
And third, we need to learn to eat seasonally. I love
Secondly, we have to improve access. The Forsyth
broccoli. However, I know I can’t eat it this time of
Farmers Market has our farm truck that goes into
year. Similarly, I know I can’t find tomatoes in Janu-
six low-income/low food access areas. We bring
ary. I don’t expect it, and I learn to appreciate what
fresh produce sourced from the vendors of our
each season of food holds.
Saturday market and we not only accept SNAP/ EBT, we actually double it. No matter how hard
How do we make a sustainable, local food system
we try, this is not something we can accomplish
that is profitable for producers while keeping it
alone. We need better government programs that
accessible to consumers?
allow for lower income individuals to have access
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In
to fresh produce. Further, we need more grocery
this fast paced world we live in, its easy and cheap
stores to invest in these areas. Almost twenty
to grab fast food or junk food for lunch. But, what
percent of Savannahians live in low income/low ac-
are we doing to our bodies? I need to read my own words as I am just as guilty as anyone else. The
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Small batch
craft distillery making
moonshine
in a 200 gallon copper still, using locally grown grains.
first thing we need to learn is that cheap food is not necessarily the same thing as low cost food. If our nation invested early on in fresh, local, healthy food, we would not have to spend the vast amount of money we spend on healthcare. In similar fashion, if our government took care of small producers in the same it subsidizes large, commercial operations, small farmers would have a better chance at being successful. How do we grow the sustainable food movement here in our communities? Again, every person has the ability to advocate for a sustainable, local food movement. Where are you
Silver medal winner at the San Diego Wine and Spirit Festival 2017. Free Samples.
buying your food? What restaurants do you frequent? Do you know who grew your food? These are decisions that we as consumers are making and with those decisions, we are advocating for the type of food we want. The way to ensure everyone has access to fresh, local food is to be a supporter.
Serve up your business to the right audience...
a growing food movement
To advertise, call 912-688-4168 or email us at info@southernsoil.org
...we’ll even help you design an ad for a one time fee of $50 and give you the file to use however you want! We believe that the more we help you succeed - the better for everyone.
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a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
G
EORGIA NATIVE REBEKAH FAULK LINGENFELSER IS A SEASON 14 FINALIST ON FOOD NETWORK STAR. A FOOD ENTHUSIAST, WRITER AND THE COOKING SHOW HOST OF SKGTV ON YOUTUBE, SHE IS THE PERSONALITY BEHIND THE BLOG, SOMEKINDAGOOD.COM AND THE STATESBORO HERALD’S LONGTIME FOOD COLUMNIST. REBEKAH IS A GEORGIA SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY ALUMNA AND ATTENDED SAVANNAH TECHNICAL COLLEGE’S CULINARY INSTITUTE OF SAVANNAH. SEARCH FACEBOOK FOR SOME KINDA GOOD, FIND HER ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM @SKGFOODBLOG OR VISIT .
Summer Tomatoes Two Ways Earlier this year, I added my very first tomato plant to my herb garden. Imagine my delight when I saw the first blooms of green tomato peeking out from the vines. Tomatoes are in season and abundant in the summertime and when it comes to cooking with this bright red, juicy fruit, the options are endless and certainly Some Kinda Good! When you cook with what’s in season, you’re always going to reap the benefits of the best flavor. The great thing about tomatoes is, they’re so easy to enjoy. Simply slice them and toss them in a salad, add them to pasta dishes, or dress up
a grilled hamburger. Of course, there’s always the classic and very popular tomato sandwich, made up of seasoned thick-cut slices of tomato, placed between two pieces of white bread and slathered in mayo. In this issue of Southern Soil, I’m sharing two recipes that embody my favorite way to eat summer tomatoes: Fried Green Tomatoes with Goat Cheese and Red Pepper Jelly, and my Farmers’ Market Summer Bruschetta. The fried green tomatoes are crisp-tender and golden brown. Served with creamy goat cheese, they’re finished with a kick of red pepper jelly and fresh basil. The namesake for my Farmers’ Market Bruschetta derives from my many cooking demos at local farmers’ markets, where I serve samples of this very dish using homegrown tomatoes, sweet onions and herbs from the market. Both of these dishes make wonderful appetizers for entertaining or for taking to summer get-togethers. They’re sure to wow your family and friends with flavor! For more local, seasonal recipes, visit SomeKindaGood.com. (con tinued on page 28)
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Fried Green Tomatoes 28
Serves 2
drain in the sink for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a cast iron skillet or 10-inch frying pan with vege-
Ingredients
table oil halfway full and set over medium heat. The
2 Large Green Tomatoes
oil will be ready for frying when sizzling occurs after
1 cup all-purpose flour
gently sprinkled with water. Set up a dredging station:
1 Tablespoon of Old Bay Seasoning
In a small dish, use a fork to combine the flour, Old
1 Tablespoon of Garlic Powder
Bay, salt and pepper. In another small dish, combine
1 cup Plain Panko Bread Crumbs
the beaten egg with water or milk. In another small
1 egg, beaten
dish, combine the Panko bread crumbs with garlic
2 Tablespoons water or milk
powder. Dredge the tomatoes in the flour mixture,
Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper
ensuring both sides and edges are evenly coated.
to taste
Then dredge in the egg wash, followed by the bread
Vegetable Oil for frying
crumbs. Shake off any excess before dropping the
Red Pepper Jelly
tomato slices into the hot oil. Fry the tomato slices
Crumbled Goat Cheese
until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes per side, turn-
Fresh Basil, chiffonade for garnish
ing once during cooking. Remove them from the oil and drain on paper towels. Place about 1 tablespoon
Directions:
of red pepper jelly on a serving plate and spread. Top
Slice tomatoes about Âź of an inch thick. Place them
with three fried green tomatoes per serving. Garnish
in a colander and season with salt. Allow them to
with crumbled goat cheese and fresh basil.
a growing food movement
Farmers’ Market Summer Bruschetta Ingredients 2 Tablespoons of Georgia Olive Oil
Directions Heat olive oil in a medium skillet. Add garlic and
6 cloves of garlic, minced
onion and stir for about one minute. Pour into a mix-
Half of 1 medium Vidalia onion, finely chopped
ing bowl and let cool slightly.
2 pints red and yellow grape tomatoes, halved, or 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
Add tomatoes, a splash of balsamic vinegar, sugar and basil. Season to taste with salt & pepper. Toss
Balsamic Vinegar to taste
to coat. If time permits, refrigerate for one hour. If
1 tsp sugar
not, it is fine to use immediately.
1 bunch fresh basil, separated into leaves,
Cut the baguette into diagonal slices. Melt half
rolled up tightly and sliced (chiffonade)
the butter in the same skillet you used for the garlic.
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook the baguette on both sides until golden brown.
1 French or Italian Baguette, sliced into
Rub toast with one whole garlic clove while hot. Re-
Âź inch pieces 1 whole garlic clove, peeled 1 stick of butter
peat with remaining butter and bread. To serve, stir the tomato mixture and spoon generously over toasted baguette slices.
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Kids and Agriculture: a day in the life ... by Karolyn O’Cull
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“Teaching kids how to feed themselves and how to live in a community responsibly is the center of an education.� ~ Alice Waters
a growing food movement
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Southern SOIL
Pictured here with Director Merrin Slocombe, Kamron Seabrain, a senior, has interned with the farm and is one of the market managers for the farm, working closely with Forsyth Market, one of the ways the farm sells its produce to the public. Seabrain has learned through his work in the farm program that first impressions matter - whether it is presentation of the product or one’s own appearance and actions.
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a growing food movement
Bethesda Academy Farm Program: growing tomorrow’s leaders
by LeeAnna Tatum
Bethesda Academy has a long history of growing food as an integrated aspect of life on the beautiful campus located just outside of Savannah on the banks of Moon River. Originally founded in 1740 as an orphanage, it has transitioned over the years and is currently a school for boys from middle through high school. The campus hosts both borders and day school attendees. Deeply rooted in its nearly 300 year history, the Academy continues Rev. George Whitefield’s founding mission centered around a love of God, a love of learning, and a strong work ethic. Merrin Slocombe, Director of the farm and garden program at Bethesda likes to introduce students to the program at the place where it all got started all those years ago. It’s a spot where Whitefield first stepped foot on the ground he instantly knew would be the right place for his orphanage. “We have this intimate connection with this space here,” Slocombe said. “This is sort of the betwixt (con tinued on page 36)
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(con tinued f r om page 35)
sacred, something really important.”
and between … from the water up to the land.
These are the type of life lessons and broader
To me, it’s really important that our students
applications Slocombe hopes that students take
understand that connection between what we do
away from their experience on the farm.
on the land, it flows out to the ocean - literally.” The farm and garden program at Bethesda is not
36
“If we’re using some kind of product, even an
designed to be a traditional agricultural program
organic product,” she continued. “We need to be
to teach students about the garden, instead
aware of how that affects aquatic life. It’s a big
the garden is used to teach the students about
deal! And that you’re always thinking about what’s
themselves and about life. In a garden, students
downstream. What is downstream in my life?
can learn lessons through hard work, perspiration
What’s downstream in my career? How do my
and persistence that they could never learn in a
actions right here flow out?”
classroom setting.
“And there is that piece of it - our bodies and
“This isn’t an ag class, it really has more to do with
our land - those are our primary gifts from God,”
learning to show up, being on a team, creative
Slocombe said. “It’s really looking at that and being
problem solving, being responsible,” Slocombe
able to appreciate what we have and treat it with
explained. “Understanding that good things take
the same respect that you would … something
time, good things take hard work … we understand
a growing food movement
that we take these little steps toward that bigger
As more and more consumers are becoming health
purpose.”
and eco-conscious in their food choices, it makes good business sense to meet that growing demand
“Rather than just memorizing things, kids in the
with food production methods that are restorative
21st century have got to get the skill of critical
for the earth and healthier for human consumption.
thinking, of collaboration, of communication, of
There is also a growing agro-tourism industry due
being able to be in community and work through
to the growing disconnect from the natural world in
projects in that way … I can’t imagine anything
people’s daily lives.
better than farming to do that. It teaches you that relationship of science, of good conscience and
The students at Bethesda are being exposed to
especially that entrepreneurial element,” Slocombe
ideas and ways in which industry and business can
said.
create win-win situations that are not only good for the environment but good for the economy as well. An important lesson for tomorrow’s leaders to be learning today. As a nonprofit organization, Bethesda has a tradition of using its resources to help generate income for the school and the farm is part of that industry. This not only makes economic sense, but also gives the students a chance to participate in the business side of farming.
ISSUE ~3 ~ 2018
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Southern
SOIL a ggrrow wing ing foooodd movveem eenntt
An online magazine focused on the local, sustainable food system in Southeast Georgia. Connect with us today!
www.southernsoil.org
a growing food movement
Business Index
W
m
E ARE WORKING TO BE THE DEFINITIVE PLATFORM FOR LOCALLY SOURCED AND SUSTAINABLY PRODUCED FOOD HERE IN SOUTHEAST GEORGIA. THIS LIST INCLUDES BUSINESSES AND FARMS THAT, AT LEAST IN PART, STRIVE TO MEET STANDARDS HIGHER
THAN THOSE SET IN CONVENTIONAL AGRICULTURE. WE HOPE THAT THIS LIST WILL HELP MINDFUL CONSUMERS CONNECT WITH PRODUCERS AND PURVEYORS OF SUSTAINABLE LOCAL FOOD. THOUGH WE HAVE ENDEAVORED TO MAKE A GOOD START, WE ADVISE CONSUMERS TO GET TO KNOW THEIR FARMERS, CHEFS, RESTAURANTEURS AND RETAILERS: ASK QUESTIONS AND LEARN ABOUT WHERE YOUR FOOD IS SOURCED AND HOW IT IS PRODUCED.
Bartow
Cobbtown
Midnight Run Distillary
Dig In Farms
The Hancock Farm, LLC
Baxley Miles Berry Farm (Organic and Conventional) Ten Mile Creek Farm
Cumberland Island Greyfield Inn
Darien Canewater Farm
Blackshear
Turnip Greens
Southern Press and Packing
Dublin
Bristol and Brunswick Rabiteye Winery
Brooklet
Dublin Farm and Ristorante de Maria Local Lands Organically Grown Gardens Market on Madison
Eastman
Hunter Cattle
Dodge County Farmers Market
Brunswick
Eden
Farmer and the Larder Gilliard Farms
Garden Botanicals
Richland Rum
Fitzgerald
Sage’s Larder
El Capitan Longhorns
ISSUE ~ 2 ~ 2018
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Southern SOIL
Glennville
Nahunta
Watermelon Creek Vinyard
Walnright and Son
Glenwood
Newington
Lola’s Organic Farm
Longwood Plantation
Golden Isles Belham Herbals Earth Inspired Bath and Body
Guyton Better Fresh Farms Greenbridge Farm Heritage Organic Farms
Hinesville The Hinesville Downtown Farmers Market
Kingsland Vacuna Farms 40
Lakeland Gayla Grits Georgia Olive Farms
Lyons Rackettown Wildlife Club
Midville Wildhaven Farm
Midway Foods of the Farm
Southern Native Plantings
Odem Mickey’s Farm, Inc. (Organic Pure Cane Syrup)
Pooler Savannah Sauce Company The Salt Table Two Addison Place Farmers Market
Portal Clark & Sons Organics
Register B & G Honey Farms
Reidsville Grassroots Farm Swampy Appleseed Mushrooms
Rocky Ford Jacob’s Produce
Sandersville Downtown Sandersville Market
Savannah 1540 Room
Milledgeville
Alligator Soul
Comfort Farms
Back in the Day Bakery
Green Market Milledgeville
Brighter Day Byrd’s Famous Cookies
Mt. Vernon
Cha Bella: Farm to Table
Hardeman Apiaries
Cotton and Rye
a growing food movement
East End Provisions
St. Simons Island
Economy Feed and Seed
Halyards Restaurant Little St. Simons Island B&B Savannah Bee Company Sea Island Resort The Market Sea Island Uncle Don’s Market
Elizabeth on 37th Forsyth Farmers Market Frali Gourmet Friendship Coffee Gratitude Gardens Grow. Eat. Repeat. Husk Kayak Kafe Downtown Kayak Kafe Midtown Kitchen 320 Local 11ten Local Farmbag Lucky’s Market Ogeechee Meat Market Prohibitions Russo’s Seafood Savannah Bee Company Savannah Bee Company: Wilmington Island Showroom Service Brewing Company Smith Brothers Butcher Shop South Islands Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market Southbound Brewing Company The Grey The Olde Pink House Restaurant The Salt Table
Statesboro HL Franklin’s Healthy Honey Main Street Farmers Market Scratch Made Catering Three Tree Roasters
Swainsboro Pinetucky Country Meats The Sugar Bowl
Sylvania 4and20 Bakers Boddiford’s Deer Processing Hammons Flatland Farm Old Freeman Family Farm (Danny Anderson’s Real Feed, non-GMO) Savannah River Farms Victory Garden General Store Walker Organic Farms
Townsend Georgia Buffalo Ranch
Thrive Catering
Waycross
Vertu Farm
Waygreen Homestead Guild Waygreen Local Fare Market
Victory Gardens Wilmington Island Farmers Market
Springfield Bootleg Farm, LLC
St. Mary’s Saint Mary’s Community Market
Waynesboro Byne Blueberry Farms Pineland Bakery Southern Swiss Dairy
Woodbine Morning Belle Farms (Organic) Woodbine Farmers Market
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