Issue
6
2019
Southern SOIL
2
Contents 22 14
a growing food movement
08 RICHLAND RUM
PAGE 08 \ SUSTAINABILITY AT WORK
28
CHEF NICHOLAS WILBER
CHEF FRANCISCO JIMENEZ
36
38
PAGE 14 \ BRAISED CARROTS WITH TURMERIC CHUTNEY
PAGE 22 \ BOUDIN STUFFED QUAIL
3
CHEF NICKI GRIFFIN
HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS
PAGE 28 \ SPICED WINTER CRISP
PAGE 36 \ PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
04....... EDITORIAL 34....... RUM COCKTAILS
42....... SOME KINDA GOOD 47....... THE BOOKWORM
NATIVE PLANT SPOTLIGHT
PAGE 38 \ ELDERBERRY
48...... BUSINESS INDEX
Aboutthe Cover
In this special Holiday Issue of Southern Soil, we want to help you out during this season of entertaining, hosting and eating! We asked three of our local chefs to provide us with a dish they might serve at a holiday meal and give us some insight into making those dishes shine! (Thank you to The Fat Radish and Pacci Italian Kitchen in ISavannah S S U E ~ 6 and ~ 2 0Halyards 19 Restaurant on St. Simon’s Island for letting us invade your kitchens!)
Southern SOIL
Editorial As I was driving home today through Southeast Georgia, I found myself reflecting on this year that is nearly over and all the wonderful stories we were able to share. I never cease to be amazed at the wonderful and resilient people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting through my work with Southern Soil. I also find myself a bit in awe at the vast amount and variety of foods that are available right here from local sources. And by “here”, I don’t just mean in the State of Georgia, I mean right here in our little corner of the State. We have farmers who are raising pastured chickens, hogs, goats, sheep, turkeys, cows and even buffalo. We also farm the sea, producing clams and oysters commercially right along our coastline. Fishermen in our coastal waterways and the Atlantic can bring in shrimp, crab, octopus, and a wide array of fish. 4
We can fish our freshwater lakes and rivers and hunt our forests, wetlands and marshes for wild game like deer, quail, duck and rabbit. We can forage for mushrooms, wild herbs and greens. Our native shrubs and trees like elderberries, tupelos, persimmons, scuppernongs, blackberries, blueberries and beautyberries produce fruits that we can enjoy. Native to this area, blueberries and scuppernongs flourish and are farmed commercially throughout Southeast Georgia. We are even home to numerous vineyards and wineries. Fruits like strawberries, watermelon and pomegranate thrive in our warm climate, but we can still manage to grow peaches and even apples here with moderate success. Newer crops like citrus and olives are also being grown here successfully. And let’s not forget the old standbys like pecans and peanuts.
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I’m not even going to attempt to list the vegetables that can be grown here in our long growing season and our window of colder weather, but I myself have successfully grown everything from tomatoes and okra to broccoli, cabbage, potatoes, peppers and more. Southeast Georgia is truly a remarkable cornucopia of good food.
those options even exist within the community. Sustainability is only possible when the farmer can make enough money to stay in business and consumers can afford to buy the products. Even with all that bounty there are still significant barriers for our local food systems to overcome. We have vast food deserts throughout rural Georgia, places that are surrounded by farmland but without access to fresh food. With so much of Georgia’s prime agricultural real estate being eaten up by conventional farms growing commodity crops like cotton, soy, tobacco and corn; it can be difficult to find fresh produce grown locally.
Yes. We have challenges that must be overcome if we are to truly grow our local food movement. But we are blessed beyond measure with abundance and opportunity here in our little corner of the planet. And if anyone can show the world how to produce safe, healthy, humane food for the rich and the poor alike; I really believe that we’re the people to do it.
We are also a State currently committed to conventional and factory farming. We unfortunately excel at the monocrop culture. And as the number ONE chicken producer in the country, you can bet that we are sadly adept at factory farmed poultry.
Wishing you and yours a very Happy Holiday Season! And I look forward to bringing you more stories of our local food systems in the New Year!
Here in Southeast Georgia, low income and poverty are real barriers that prevent large segments of our population from being able to afford healthier, locally produced options - assuming that
But now is the time to celebrate!
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
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Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
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Erik and Karin Vonk Photo courtesy of Richland Rum
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Richland Rum:
sustainability at work by LeeAnna Tatum Richland Rum is creating a name for itself and
transforms it into a sophisticated sipping rum - all
the town where the distillery is located, quite
while staying true to principles that are deeply
literally putting Richland on the map. The distilling
rooted in simplicity and a respect for nature.
company has gained recognition both for the quality of the product produced, as well as, the
Richland Rum is described as “a single estate
economic revitalization it has helped to spark in the
rum�, meaning that all the sugarcane used in
local communities where their two distilleries are
its production is grown right there, processed
located - Richland and Brunswick.
there, and taken to the distillery for fermentation, distillation, aging, bottling and distribution.
Less acclaimed but certainly not less noteworthy,
Everything, literally from the ground up, is done on
however, is how remarkably sustainable Richland
site - either at the farm or a few miles down the
Rum truly is. This agriculturally based business
road at the distillery.
takes what is essentially a humble grass and
(con tinued on page 10)
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This farm to glass operation is one-of-a-kind here in
Erik and Karin Vonk are the unintentional owners
the US.
and founders of Richland Distilling Company. Unintentional because there was never supposed to
Richland Rum consists of precisely two ingredients:
be a company at all, it was all meant to be a hobby.
the juice from the sugarcane that has been cooked
A post-retirement way of life - country living, a small
down into syrup form, fermented and distilled; and
sugarcane farm, some distilling of rum for personal
spring water - both ingredients sourced directly
use and for friends and family.
from the Vonk’s farm. The couple, originally from Holland, are committed to sustainable agriculture and producing a finished product that is free of additives. The sugarcane is grown on a small part of their farm, most of which is used as a nature preserve. “The farm is 1,700 acres. What is not in sugarcane, we operate as a wildlife preserve. We have been restoring the cotton farm for years by planting longleaf trees to bring back habitat for the quail
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population and deer,” Karin explained. “We have an
use any pesticides or herbicides … It’s a grass. It’s
abundance of ponds and lakes and streams and
a very grateful crop. It’s an easy crop,” Karin said of
then, of course, my mustang sanctuary - I have
their choice to grow without chemical inputs.
about 20 horses right now.” “We plant six feet apart, so in early spring the The farm had been used for generations to grow
weeds will come up and the weeds are higher
cotton and peanuts, but over the past 20 years or
than the sugarcane at that point. So, it’s easy for
so since purchasing the land, the Vonks have been
us to scorch the weeds ... which will replenish
working to restore the soil and create a space that
the soil. And then by the time the summer weeds
invites and sustains wildlife. Using sustainable
are coming, they won’t come because then the
practices for growing their sugarcane is a part of
sugarcane has shaded out the soil. Summer
that overall design.
weeds are not a problem for us. It’s sustainable, it’s organic.”
Pesticides and herbicides are not used at all and fertilizers have been used sparingly and not for
In terms of sustainability, sugarcane is a model
many years.
crop. As a grass, it will naturally regrow after being cut down and is therefore self-sustaining for
“We have been blessed … There’s no need for them, but it’s also our principle that we do not want to
several years. (con tinued on page 12)
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“The sugarcane stalk has nodes and that’s where
root at all, but also because it significantly reduced
new shoots will come out,” Karin explained. “So,
the growing season.
part of the harvest we turn into sugarcane syrup. With the remaining harvest, the cut stalk is laid
After growing cane in one area for a period of
flat and (immediately) buried in a six inch row. The
four years or so, the Vonks will plant peanuts for
nodes will produce roots underground since the soil
one to two years. This rotation allows the soil to
is still warm. In March, you already have a nice stalk
be replenished with nitrogen which the peanuts
because the root has been established.”
provide and the sugarcane needs for healthy growth. Thus virtually eliminating the need for fertilizers. An aspect of Richland Rum that is of great importance is the complete absence of chemicals and additives. This fact, which Karin is quick to
Replanting at the time of harvest is a method that took some time to develop. Initially the stalks were 12
stored over winter and then planted in the spring. This not only didn’t produce good results because the canes had dried out and were less likely to take
point out, makes it stand out from many other forms of alcohol and types of rum. “We bring it (sugarcane) from the farm in November and December and this is the only ingredient in our
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rum,” Karin emphasized. “Everything else that are
Editor’s Note:
normally in alcoholic beverages: coloring, taste
For those who are familiar with our policies
enhancers, mouth feel changers, preservatives,
and coverage area, you may be wondering
additives - nothing. Sugar cane syrup from cane
why we included an article on Richland Rum
grown in Georgia is the only ingredient.”
as it is not located here within Southeast
The Vonks are committed to the single-estate approach to producing rum. They have no intention of expanding beyond the 250 acres they currently
Georgia. Richland Rum recently opened their second distillery in downtown Brunswick, bringing them squarely into our neighborhood.
use for growing the cane. Having recently invested
Additionally, while consumers are becoming
in a pivot system for irrigation and specialty
much more accustomed to seeking out
equipment that enabled them to transition from
sustainable and clean food options,
hand cutting the crop to using a tractor, they plan
beverages are still very much under the radar.
to maintain their current acreage. To this point,
Here we have a product that is produced in
additional acres had been added to sugarcane
South Georgia that is not only sustainable,
production each year, but they believe they have
but is gaining a world-wide reputation for its
reached the optimum size for their farm and for the
quality as well.
rum production they wish to maintain. While it’s a bit of a trek to Richland from By intentionally limiting the company’s growth, they
where most of us in Southeast Georgia live,
understand that there may come a point where
the distillery is a treat to visit.
demand outstrips supply, but they are okay with that outcome. Scarcity will only serve to increase
The Richland Rum Distillery is a feast for the
the prices.
senses. Buildings full of history in downtown Richland have been renovated and restored, offering an attractive backdrop for tastings, events and tours. The aroma itself is intoxicating. Something like cotton candy dancing on a breeze of fresh cut grass and sunshine just after a rain shower has washed the air clean. Sugarcane syrup bubbles contentedly as natural yeasts work their magic - turning grass into rum.
“So be it, it becomes scarce,” Karin said. “It’s good, because the price goes up. We will not become slaves of our own success.” It was, after all, only ever intended to be a hobby.
And then, of course, there’s the tastings. If you’d rather not make the drive to Richland, the Brunswick location is open to the public for tours, tastings and shopping.
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Chef Nicholas Wilber:
Braised Carrots with Turmeric Chutney
by LeeAnna Tatum
Photos by Tara Ruby
Chef Nicholas Wilber, executive chef of The Fat
Wilber has been a chef for approximately 20
Radish in Savannah, has a down to earth approach
years, starting his career in his home state of
to food and an appreciation for quality, seasonal
Colorado. He fell in love with the lifestyle and
ingredients. Showcasing vegetables as the star of a
the slightly dysfunctional family atmosphere of
meal is a big part of his repertoire.
the professional kitchen. He chose to drop out of college and pursue his passion for cooking.
“I grew up with European grandmothers,” Wilber
Training under talented chefs, his culinary journey
reminisced, “one from England and one from
eventually took him to New York City and the world
Germany and they had really big gardens. Being an
of fine dining and high end restaurants.
only child, I was at their houses all the time. I’d take a salt shaker with me and go out in the garden and
Eventually he tired of “tweezers and squirt bottles”,
pick a tomato off the plant and eat it … So, I was
preparing perfectly plated foods only meant
always drawn to that kind of thing.”
(con tinued on page 16)
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to be enjoyed on special occasions. He wanted to take that same commitment to quality, fresh ingredients prepared with care; but make it more accessible, more connected to community, and more educational for diners. “It’s a lot nicer to be a chef in a more relaxed atmosphere, doing something positive for the community and enjoying what you do, instead
a network from which to source ingredients. And
of trying to do fine dining and make everything
though things are quite a bit different in Savannah
super fancy. That’s just not the kind of chef I
than New York City, he’s okay with that.
wanted to be,” Wilber explained. 16
“I’ve been in the South for a year and some change
That opportunity came along when Wilber was
now. I love it,” Wilber said. “It’s nice … to live here, I
asked to join the team opening The Fat Radish in
can walk to work and it’s beautiful. To walk to work
New York City in 2010. Making connections with
in New York is not very fun … Here you kind of slow
local farmers and sharing, not only their produce,
down a little bit, enjoy your surroundings a bit more.
but their stories as well, became a signature feature
On a personal level, that’s fun for me.”
of the restaurant.
Aside from the slower pace here in the South,
Chef Wilber believes that sharing the stories that
Wilber has also been pleasantly surprised by the
connect diners to the source of their food is an
extended growing season and the kinds of foods
important part of The Fat Radish’s success in
that can be locally grown and sourced - things like
New York and something he plans to continue in
ginger and turmeric. A second growing season
Savannah.
for crops like carrots is another plus that makes shopping for ingredients a bit more interesting in
Wilber has been in Savannah for about a year
the winter months than they were in New York.
preparing for the launch of a second The Fat Radish location which opened its doors six months
Introduction to the recipe
ago. He is beginning the process again of making
When asked to share a recipe for our readers
important connections to local farms and building
that could be included as part of a holiday menu,
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Chef Wilber, not surprisingly, chose to highlight
“There are things that grow here that I was shocked
a vegetable. His recipe for Braised Carrots with
about, like fresh turmeric. So, it just made sense
Turmeric Chutney celebrates the earthiness of the
to make a really nice chutney with turmeric. To
carrot while bringing out its natural sweetness as
highlight the carrots and then all the sweetness
well. This recipe utilizes two main ingredients, the
gets knocked down with a really good goat cheese
carrot and turmeric, that can be readily sourced
(we get it from Bootleg Farms). We used feta on
here locally.
this dish because it’s kind of salty and balances the whole dish out.”
“The way we do things here (at The Fat Radish) is to showcase a vegetable, we’ll add things here and there,” Wilber explained, “but this dish is just carrots
(Recipe on page 18)
on the plate with a really nice chutney that plays off the sweetness of the carrots and the earthiness.” “We like to showcase a vegetable in their peak season and carrots do well in the fall. They really need that cold weather so the sugar content goes up. I’m just starting to see them come around again. Which is amazing that you get two growing seasons around here … i love that.” 17
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Recipe
ey ric Honey Chutn
Turme
uart
Yields 1 q
s Chili Flake 1 Tsp Red ey 1 Cup Hon rrot Juice 6 Cups Ca ooking Oil 1/4 Cup C
Turmeric 6 oz Fresh h Ginger 4 oz. Fres ns White Onio 4 Medium loves 6 Garlic C Spice ow Curry ll e Y r o r ie g 3 Tbs Tan d garlic , ginger, an c ri e rm tu ll soft nd mince turmeric ti d n a r, • Peel a e ll g a in sure it ic, g dice sm nd making nions, garl a o t nions and g a o in e l rr e w ti e s s P tes) • il and ut 5 minu pan heat o rant ( abo g rge sauce a la fr ll a ti In il • t in o s and toas ried spice d f pan o d d m A o n • n bott o rn u inutes to a b t o does n e for 45 m tly c h u g d li re e z d li n e a caram w simmer oney and own to a lo d n • Add h a p rn and tu sistency arrot juice mmy con ja a • Add c s rm if fo hour until ol an and co igerator ve from p o m e R in the refr r • e in ta n o ht c in an airtig • Store
18
Recipe
Braised Carrots
6 Pounds Carrots (thin rather than fat ones) 2 Inch Piece of Fresh Gin ger 1 Cup Orange Juice 2 Bay Leaves 6 Cups Carrot Juice
• • • • • • • • • • •
Yields 10 Servings
Turmeric Honey Chutn ey (see recipe above) Crumbled Goat Cheese Fresh Basil or Cilantro , and Toasted Sesame Seeds for Garnish
Thoroughly clean carro ts with a scrub brush an d warm water paying att ridge where dirt hides ention to the top Place first 5 ingredients in braising pan and sim mer till carrots are just Remove carrots and co tender ol on sheet pan in refrig erator until ready to se Reduce remaining liquid rve by half and set aside Heat a large saute pan on high with a little cook ing oil Add carrots and reduc e heat to medium high. Gently roll carrots in pa to caramelize to a golde n till the skin starts n brown. You’ll need to work in batches. Remove from heat and add ¼ cup of the carro t braising liquid. Note tha bubbly and you want to t it will be very do this away from the heat to not cause a fla Return to heat and red re up . uce the liquid till a nice glaze is formed around Place a good dollup of the carrots the chutney on a plate and arrange the carrots Crumble some goat ch on top eese on top and a good amount of toasted sesa Garnish with basil or cila me seeds ntro
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Check out Chef Nicholas’ Tips on Page 21
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Tips from Chef Nicholas
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Make a recipe your own: “you should always do your own little spin”. Don’t stress: “I always say, don’t stress out too much ... cooking is supposed to be enjoyable … Don’t shoot for perfection, just enjoy it.” Chutney keeps: “it will last forever as long as you keep it in a sealed container in the fridge, you can keep it for six months. You can add it to any dish. It would go good on a piece of chicken, you can add it to rice. It just goes great with cheese … Over the holidays, people come over, you can get a little brie, get the chutney out and it’s good to go.” Use it all: “If you get really nice carrots, you can save the carrot greens and do all kinds of things with them. You can make pestos with them and salsa verdes as well. The stems are totally edible as well. It’s nice to leave them on, especially when braising, because you can tell - that’s a carrot!” Bring out the natural sugars: “The reason for (braising) is there’s lots of sugars in the carrot and orange juice and that imparts into the carrots. Which is nice because when we pick them up, we’ll saute them and caramelize those and it adds that great sweetness. That part’s super exciting.” Broil or saute: For the final step of the cooking process, you can broil all the carrots in a pan rather than cooking them in smaller batches on the stove. “You can just pop the carrots in the oven and broil them, here we do it per order. Broil them at a high temperature to caramelize.”
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Chef Francisco Jimenez Boudin Stuffed Quail Photos by Tara Ruby
by LeeAnna Tatum
Chef Francisco Jimenez, executive chef at Halyards
of Creole cuisine. His time working and eating in
on St. Simon’s Island, has always known he wanted
New Orleans made a lasting influence on his own
to work with food.
cooking style.
“I’ve always liked to eat,” Jimenez said with a laugh.
Early holiday food memories for Jimenez include
“I’ve always worked around food. When I was 15,
making cranberry sauce with his family. He grew up
I was a dishwasher. When I was in high school,
in Massachusetts near commercial cranberry bogs.
I always had jobs in the kitchen. There was just
“After they’d flood the bogs and pick cranberries,
never anything else I was going to do.”
you could go and get some of the residual fruit that they wouldn’t pick. So, we’d go pick cranberries and
After attending culinary school, Jimenez moved
make cranberry sauce,” Jimenez recalled.
to New Orleans and got a job at Commander’s Palace, one of the city’s most prominent purveyors
(con tinued on page 24)
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These days he prefers to keep his holiday cooking
cooking, is a pork and rice sausage (in this case
as simple as possible and somewhat non-
left loose, not in a casing) that is both flavorful and
traditional. Paella has become a favorite Christmas
filling. The quail serves as a vessel for the boudin
dish that brings together lots of fresh seafood as a
while also bringing its own great flavor to the plate.
simple one-dish meal that can be prepared that day. “Boudin is like a cajun pork and rice sausage,” he Jimenez enjoys cooking for others and appreciates
explained. “I cooked in Louisiana for seven years
the way that food can bring people together. “I
so that’s a food that’s near and dear to my heart …
get a lot of joy out of it,” he said. “I love cooking
It’s real simple. It’s kind of a poor man’s food - it’s a
for people, it’s very communal. You can meet a new person and you instantly have something in common. It doesn’t matter where you’re from or what you do, or who you know, everybody’s gotta eat. I think it’s a nice commonality.” Introduction to the recipe Chef Jimenez chose to create a dish that draws heavily from his New Orleans’ influences featuring quail and boudin sausage. Boudin, a staple in Cajun 24
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little meat and a lot of rice.” Jimenez suggests cooking up the boudin a day or two ahead of time and the quail can be stuffed the night before to keep things as simple as possible. “These are great for a dinner party, you could make 20 of these the day before. Have them already stuffed, put them on a tray and then just put them in the oven. I usually plan for 2 of them per person. Eighteen to 20 minutes in the oven and then it’s done.” Even if you don’t hunt them, quail are pretty easy to find here in the South. Jimenez purchases them semi-boneless which is when all the bones are removed except for the wings and the legs making them very simple to stuff. (Recipe on page 26)
Check out Chef Francisco’ s Tips on Page 27
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Recipe
Boudin Stuffed Quail
8 quail (semi boneless) 2 lbs pork shoulder, cu t into 2” cubes 1 yellow onion, diced 4 stalks celery, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs paprika 2 tsp cayenne
• • • • • •
26
• • • •
Yields 8 Quail
2 bay leaves 1 tsp dried thyme 8 cups water (or chick en or vegetable stock) Salt and pepper ½ bunch parsley, chop ped 4 scallions, sliced thin 2 cups rice (Carolina or Ch arleston gold preferred) 3 cups reserved braisin g liquid
Season pork chunks wit h salt and pepper In a medium sized pot over medium high heat, sear pork chunks until sides. Once pork is bro well browned on all wned, remove from po t. Add onions, celery, bell pepper and garlic to po t and cook until vegeta Add paprika, cayenne, bles begin to brown. bay leaves and thyme and toast spices for 1-2 Add pork back to the po minutes. t and cover with water or stock. Bring up to a simmer. Simmer until boil and down to a pork is tender, about an ho ur and a half. Once pork is tender, str ain the stock away and reserve. Add rice to pot and co ver with appropriate am ount of braising liquiduntil rice is tender. 3 cups and simmer Allow pork and vegeta bles to cool while rice is cooking and chop tog coarse. ether until slightly Combine pork/vegetable s with Rice and add pa rsley and scallions. Ta adjust with salt, pepper ste for seasoning and or cayenne as necessary . Cool Boudin Season quail inside an d out with salt and pepp er and stuff boudin int cross legs to keep boud o quail until full and in inside. Set on baking tray and bake at 350 degrees un til internal temperature reaches 165 degrees.
Tips from Chef Francisco
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Don’t overcomplicate things: “Keep it simple. Keep it packed with flavor. Use lots of fresh ingredients.” Just say “no” to canned green beans: “Skip the canned green beans. You can still make a green bean casserole, just use fresh beans and not canned, throw some fresh shiitakes in there ... it makes it so much better … it’s fine to use the canned cream of mushroom … and whoever came up with those Durkee french onions is genius.” Don’t get burned: “Always put things in hot oil away from you, not towards you.” Chop, don’t grind: (For the boudin sausage) “I chop the pork, some people will put it in the meat grinder. I like to chop it by hand, so it is rough chopped - I think it adds some nice texture to the dish.” Make it your own: If you can’t find quail for this dish, Chef Francisco suggests changing it out for chicken or pork chops. Or if you’d prefer to stuff the quail with cornbread dressing, add in shrimp and andouille, or make an oyster dressing.
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Chef Nicki Griffin:
Spiced Winter Crisp
by LeeAnna Tatum
Originally from Chicago Chef Nicki Griffin, moved to
would mess around with recipes. We got bored of
Savannah to attend culinary school and has been
eating take out and all this horrible food. It was …
working at Pacci Italian Kitchen for the past two
you better learn how to cook or you’re going to have
years. Baking is her passion and as Pastry Chef,
a really boring food life,” she said with a laugh.
Griffin has the chance to put her skills and creativity to work every day.
Though she loved to cook and especially loved baking, Griffin never considered it as a career
Griffin grew up in a home where cooking was not a
option. Instead, she accepted a scholarship to a
priority. Whether it was take-out at her mom’s or the
university to play ice hockey and study nutrition
same unappealing dish with dad, she realized early
science.
on that if she was going to eat well she better learn to cook.
“I was in a huge four year university and I loved every aspect - except going to class. And I figured if
“I started to cook on my own. Me and my sister
(con tinued on page 30)
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Check out Chef Nicki’s Tips on Page 33
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I can’t go to class, I won’t be able to love my career
believe it).
after school.” “This is super easy to make. I like simple and good After some gentle nudging from her mom who had
flavors. It makes life a lot easier. You can make it
recently moved to Savannah, Griffin decided to look
the day before and warm it up in the oven when
into culinary school instead.
your guests are ready to eat it.”
“I was skeptical. I came down (to Savannah), I saw
“For fall, wintery kind of things, I love using apples,”
the kitchen. There was a pastry class going on and
Griffin explained. “I’m from Chicago and I love apple
I was like, ‘that would be so much fun! This is what
picking and all that! So, every year since I moved
you do for school?’ So, I switched and moved down
down here, I drive up to northern Atlanta and I pick
here in the spring and never looked back.”
out apples. My favorite to bake with are Granny Smith because of that tartness, but when you cook
Introduction to the recipe
them down, you get that sugar and the sweetness -
Chef Griffin chose to share a recipe for a dessert
it’s a good mix.”
that not only highlights the fruits of the season, but also the spices that warm up a winter’s day!
“For this I went with the Granny Smith apple and
Her Spiced Winter Crisp with apples and pears
pears, because it gives it that sweetness with less
simmered with clove pairs beautifully with the
sugar added to it. Plus, the more fruit that you can
Cinnamon Ice Cream (a recipe so simple you won’t
use, especially local, the better.” (Recipe on page 32)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 3 1)
Recipe
p
ris Spiced Winter C
Filling les Smith App 4 Granny ars 4 Bosc Pe s cranberrie p 1 1/2 cu ugar 1/2 cup s on juice m 1 Tbs le ve 1/2 tsp clo eg tm u n 1/2 tsp
Topping ur urpose flo 1 cup All-p n sugar 1 cup brow erature) 1 cup oats oom temp (r r e tt u b 1 cup amon 1 Tbs cinn owl and amon in b
ixture is
mix until m
d cinn , butter an ts a o r, a g ut flour, su e Topping: P e until filling is mad ve and • Make id s a t e n juice, clo S rs o . a d m e e p le in d r, b n a a g m u co the apples nberries, s and slice ith the cra re w o t c o , p h s a a in ars • W les and pe sliced app e c la P • rs are soft s and pea le p p a e nutmeg th heat until on medium pie dish • Cook ing into a ll fi d e k o o d ec ping is browne • Put th made top e topping y th d l a ti e n lr u a r h it so • Top w 15 minute egrees for d 0 5 3 t a • Bake
32
Recipe
Cinnamon Ice Cream
(No Churn)
2 cups heavy crea
m 1 14 ounce can sw eetened condense d milk 1 tsp ground cinna mon •
With whisk attach ment whip heavy cream until mediu If you do not have m peaks form a mixer you can do this with a bowl an a great arm worko d a whisk and it w ut :) ill give you • Slowly stream in sweetened cond en se d m ilk • Whip until st iff peaks form bu t be careful not to start to separate overwhip. If you ov erwhip the cream will • Stir in Cinnam on and place in a lo af pan or dish of yo • Freeze 6-8 ho ur choice to be ab urs. The longer yo le to freeze u freeze, the hard er the ice cream will become
Tips from Chef Nicki
a growing food movement
Just do it: “Try anything. Don’t be scared to mess things up.” Be brave: “Cooking seems scary to a lot of people … but people just need a little guidance. Don’t be scared.” Embrace technology: “YouTube, social media - all of that is what gives people confidence in their own kitchens. And people are glued to their phones these days anyway, use them to learn.” Ditch the canned cranberry sauce: “I came from a family that definitely doesn’t cook, so all I knew about cranberries was the cranberry sauce in the can and I was always turned off by cranberries. Then I started cooking with them and they produce this really great tart flavor but they also when you cook down the fruit they just explode and all the juices will run out - it makes everything a beautiful red color.” Don’t peel: “I leave the skin on. You can peel it. But when you cook down apples and pears, if you accidentally cook it down too much the peel will still give you some texture in the dish, rather than just eating apple sauce. I actually like the texture when you bite into an apple pie or this dish when you get the skin. It’s a preference thing. I think it takes less time.” Go vegan (if you want): “This whole thing (Spiced Winter Crisp) can actually be made vegan. You just add vegetable oil or olive oil (instead of butter) and it tastes almost as good. I made this exact recipe with peaches and no one even noticed.”
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Keep things Merry & Bright
Southern SOIL
Although they recommend you enjoy Richland Rum neat, here are two cocktail recipes that will be sure to warm you up this holiday season!
Richland
Coffee
bine 2 mug, com In a coffee Estate land Single oz of Rich d 4 oz of ia Rum an Old Georg d ½ oz coffee. Ad dark roast Rum Pure d Almost of Richlan Add thin p and stir. Cane Syru ently ream by g c y v a e h f layer o spoon. ver stirring pouring o 34
Richland B
uttered Cid
Ingredients
• • • • •
er
Dash of Ric
4 oz. hot un
1.5 oz. Rich
hland Almo
filtered app
land Single
Cinnamon s
Slice of ora
tick
st Rum - un
le cider
refined sug
Estate Old S
ar cane syr
up
outh Georg
ia Rum
nge
RITUAL
Slowly bring
apple cider
to a simme r over low h eat, put a d ss, pour ho ash t apple cide Richland Ru r in the glas m, add a do s, add llop of butte stick and ora r, garnish w ith cinnamo nge slice. n of Almost R
um in a gla
a growing food movement
35
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
Holiday Gift Ideas - produ Southern SOIL
H.L. Franklin’s Healthy Honey
(con tinued f r om page 2 7)
Hunter Cattle Hunter Cattle’s Artisan Tallow soap is made from 100% grassfed beef tallow. No Dyes or Artificial Colors used. MooMa and Pa have named this line of farm made tallow products after the only good smelling thing on the farm; the only granddaughter, Meadow Bloom.
Our Creamed Honey is whipped to perfection using only our pure, raw, unfiltered Georgia honey. Although the texture is creamy, there is no cream added. You can use our Creamed Honey in all the same ways you would traditionally use honey. Since it spreads well and does not drip or drizzle, it can also be used as a spread, dessert topping, or as a sweet treat straight from the spoon. Our Creamed Honey is also perfect for: -Peanut butter & Creamed Honey sandwiches -A spread or dip with apple slices & strawberries -Added to oatmeal or yogurt -Spread on a cracker with a piece of cheese ...the possibilities are endless!
36 The individual soaps are named after the farm boys
in hopes that they will use them.
Southern Swiss Dairy Eggnog is produced seasonally on this local family dairy and makes for a perfect hostess gift for holiday parties! (But you’ll also want to pick some up for yourself.) Available in pint and half gallon sizes.
This gift box contains (1) 12oz jar of our Award Winning Creamed Honey & (1) 12oz jar of our Chocolate Creamed Honey – made with organic cacao.
uct spotlights Genesis Moon This is one of our most popular bars, Chamomile Noir. We can be found at any of the events on our page, we meet locally and we are in Time and Again in Richmond Hill and Martin Mercantile in Hinesville. Our products are locally made using local farm ingredients so supporting us with a purchase supports three local businesses! We use goat milk from Hardwicke Farms here in Richmond Hill and honey and beeswax from Swamp Honey in Hinesville.
Watermelon Creek Just in! Our used wine bottles destined for the trash have now been repurposed into scented candles! Creating a warm glow and a light scent the 100% soy wax burns completely , so the bottle can live its next life as a vase, holding kitchen utensils, or whatever! Just $25 each in 8 different scents. Alone or paired with our wines or jams and jellies they make a unique gift only sold here in our tasting room.or on our website.
Richland a growing food movementRum This Season, Share the Spirit, The Spirit of GeorgiaÂŽ - Richland Rum is the only field to glass Rum made in the USA. Barrel aged sipping rum, crafted from Georgia sugar cane, distilled and matured in white oak barrels for at least 4 years. Richland Rum is available at the distilleries in Richland and Brunswick and most wine & spirit stores. Or shop for non-alcoholic items, such as cocktail recipe books, branded glassware and unrefined sugar cane syrup. Tel. 229-887-3537 |
The Hancock Farm More than just produce, turn to this family farm in Jefferson County for a 37 wide variety of baked goods, candies and floral arrangements - perfect for hostess gifts and holiday parties. thehancockfarm@gmail.com
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
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Southern SOIL
38
Photo by Beth Wiggins
Photo by Heather Brasell.
a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: Elderberry Sambucus canadensis
by Beth Wiggins Grant, Coast Plains Chapter, Georgia Native Plant Society Perhaps you’ve seen juice, capsules, and gummies with elderberry concentrate in your local health food store or pharmacy. Elderberry is very high in antioxidants, Vitamins A, B, and C and iron, phosphorus, and potassium and both the numerous small flowers and juicy berries have been used in food and medicines for centuries. The plants, native to eastern North America, are one of the easiest large, upright, woody shrubs to grow in our Southern soils. Many wildlife use the plants for food. Pollinators like butterflies and bees consume their nectar, and over 50 species of songbirds and other animals eat the berries. Some mammals, such as deer, sometimes eat the leaves. Whether you are interested in human or wildlife consumption, or both, elderberry is a very useful deciduous shrub. They can be planted for shade, hedgerows and windbreaks, too. They grow in clusters or small colonies, usually 6 to 8 feet wide, with multiple stems 8 to 12 feet tall, preferring moist, well drained soil in sun or part shade. They reproduce by underground runners, rhizomes and stolons, and by seed dispersed by animals. The flowers and fruit grow in large rounded clusters, or cymes, on the ends of the stalks. In bloom, the plant looks like a huge bouquet of flowers! They are found in open habitat, around swamp and stream margins, and along ditches and disturbed areas. In my yard, near a small creek, they came up on their own in several places. The opposite pinnately compound 5 to 11 leaflets are dark green and 3 to 7 inches long. The flower and fruit clusters can be up to 8 inches wide. The cream-colored flowers have a pleasant fragrance and can be dried or made into tea, juice, syrup, cordials, lemonade, or baked in pancakes, breads, and desserts. The dark purple/black berries can be used to make preserves, jellies, juice, wine, pies, syrup, and toppings for yogurt and ice cream, in baked goods, etc. It is no longer recommended to eat the blossoms or berries raw or any of the leaves raw or cooked (although this was common in past centuries), as they contain undesirable chemicals that can cause sickness. The leaves have been used for insect repellants and treatment for some fungal diseases in plants, like leaf spot and powdery mildew. (con tinued on page 4 0)
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
39
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 39)
Propagation is very easy in the early spring. There
the soil. Cover with a plastic bag to make a mini-
is really no harm in taking samples from a wild
greenhouse. Water and mist every several days.
source (if you have permission), as the plant will
These may root faster than those held in water.
quickly send up new sprouts. As any new canes on
Gently pull the stem after about 10 days to check
a plant are clones, they may make larger fruit if two
for significant resistance, which shows the roots
or more individual plants from different sources
are well developed. Plant 6 to 10 feet apart. Once
are planted. Dig some of the new sprouts coming
in the ground, they grow fast! They require very
up outside the main colony and hold them in water
little care and maintenance. Keep them watered the
or wet soil until transplanted. For cuttings, cut
first year, as the roots are shallow. Mature plants
a young cane, still springy but becoming woody,
can usually survive drought, but there may be some
beginning to turn from green to brown. Cut it
die-back. There will be some flowers and fruit the
into pieces, 4 to 6 inches long, removing most of
first year, but many more the second, when the
leaves, but careful to leave at least one set at the
canes are longer and there is more side growth.
top. Root them in water which you change every
The production falls on third year stalks, so start
few days, and mist the leaves at the same time.
pruning the older ones during the winter after the
Roots will grow from the leaf nodes. Wait about
second year.
two weeks until there is a thick root mass. Or put
40
them in water for 12 to 24 hours then root them
I have been very happy to have these interesting
in damp soil in pots, with about 1/3 of the stem in
shrubs in my yard for many years, enjoying the
a growing food movement
fruits and watching the birds eat them. Now that
heavy pruning during the winter after the leaves
the colonies are mature, the only care I give is
have fallen.
41
Credits
Photo by Beth Wiggins
Gardening Know How. gardeningknowhow.com Miller, James H. and Miller, Karl V. Forest Plants of the Southeast and their Wildlife Uses, The University of Georgia Press, 2005.
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Southern SOIL
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Food Network Star finalist Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is a food enthusiast and writer. Her blog, Some Kinda Good, features local, in-season recipes with Southern coastal influences. A Georgia Southern University alumna, she also attended Savannah Technical College’s Culinary Institute of Savannah. Like Some Kinda Good on Facebook, follow @SKGFoodBlog on Twitter and Instagram or visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
An Appetizer for Entertaining: Holiday Cheese Ball with Sweet Heat When it comes to holiday entertaining, one of my go-to appetizers is my creamy cheese ball with sweet heat. Always a hit with family and friends, it’s easy to make and tastes Some Kinda Good! There are many variations of this popular Southern appetizer online. I’ve seen savory cheese balls and sweet cheese balls. I developed my recipe as many Southern belles do, modified from my mother’s, with a few of my own touches. Perfect for taking to office Christmas parties and neighborhood gatherings, it has pops of red and green color from the peppers and cherries with a cold and creamy texture. The heat comes from the pickled jalapenos, and the sweetness from a touch of green pepper jelly.
I like to serve the cheese ball on a round dish to enhance its natural shape, surrounded with crackers. Snowflake-shaped crackers add a little Christmas cheer, but this recipe is wonderful year around with whatever kind of crackers you like. For a fun and festive presentation, you can shape the ball into a wreath and decorate it with maraschino cherries to look like a bow. My Holiday Cheese Ball with Sweet Heat comes together quickly and is edible right away, but has a more firm texture when chilled. I recommend making it a day ahead and letting it set up in the refrigerator overnight. If you’re short on time, 30 minutes to an hour will do. Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
(con tinued on page 4 4)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 4 3)
Holiday Cheese Ball with Sweet Heat •
1 8-oz block of cream cheese, softened
•
Dash of Worcestershire Sauce
•
1 cup of sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
•
1 tablespoon of Green Pepper Jelly
•
1 cup of pepper jack cheese, shredded
•
1/4 cup of pepitas (Pumpkin seeds)
•
A few jarred jalapeno peppers, chopped
•
Seasoned salt
•
A tablespoon of jarred jalapeno pepper juice
•
Pepper
•
A handful of maraschino cherries, stems
•
1/2 – 3/4 cup Georgia pecans, toasted and
removed and chopped
44
•
1/2 of a green bell pepper, chopped
•
1/4 cup of chopped onion (I used purple for the
chopped
color, but a sweet Vidalia onion would be great too)
Directions Dry roast pecans in a pan over medium heat, flipping occasionally until fragrant and golden (5-10 minutes). Set aside. Using a hand mixer, blend the cheeses together until incorporated. Add in remaining ingredients, reserving the pecans for the outside, and season with seasoned salt and pepper. Blend on low-speed until everything is incorporated. Turn the mixture out onto plastic wrap and form it into a ball. Remove the plastic wrap and roll the ball in the chopped pecans until covered. Let chill. Serve with buttery crackers, such as Ritz. Note: If you’re using a food processor to chop your onion and bell pepper, be sure to drain any natural water from the vegetables before adding them to the mixture. Additional water will make your cheese ball runny, and you wouldn’t want that.
a growing food movement
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
Southern SOIL
l i o S n r Southe Swag Show your support for the local sustainable food movement southern style!
46
https://teespring.com/stores/southern-soil-merchandise
Th
or w m k oo B e
a growing food movement
reading the best and weeding the rest
A
REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF SOME KINDA GOOD: GOOD FOOD AND GOOD COMPANY, THAT’S WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT BY REBEKAH FAULK LINGENFELSER
In her book Some Kinda Good: Good Food and Good Company, That’s What It’s All About, Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser shares her enthusiasm for food, the South and Coastal living.
47
To quote myself as it says on the back cover, “Rebekah’s delectable writing invites readers to relax in a rocking chair on the front porch and sip on a tall glass of iced tea while she serves up stories of Southern hospitality and food traditions. Her book is the perfect recipe of personal experiences blended with cooking tips and life lessons, seasoned with her own blend of Southern sass.” This book is part memoir and part cookbook. From unexpected job loss to dream opportunity on the Food Network, learn about the people and places that have inspired Rebekah on her food journey as she unabashedly pursues her dream!
ISSUE ~ 6 ~ 2019
Southern SOIL
W
Business Index
m
E ARE WORKING TO BE THE DEFINITIVE PLATFORM FOR LOCALLY SOURCED AND SUSTAINABLY PRODUCED FOOD HERE IN SOUTHEAST GEORGIA. THIS LIST INCLUDES BUSINESSES AND FARMS THAT, AT LEAST IN PART, STRIVE TO MEET STANDARDS HIGHER THAN THOSE SET IN CONVENTIONAL AGRICULTURE. WE HOPE THAT THIS LIST WILL HELP MINDFUL CONSUMERS CONNECT WITH PRODUCERS AND PURVEYORS OF SUSTAINABLE LOCAL FOOD. THOUGH WE HAVE ENDEAVORED TO MAKE A GOOD START, WE ADVISE CONSUMERS TO GET TO KNOW THEIR FARMERS, CHEFS, RESTAURANTEURS AND RETAILERS: ASK QUESTIONS AND LEARN ABOUT WHERE YOUR FOOD IS SOURCED AND HOW IT IS PRODUCED.
Alma
The Douglas Farm
Alston
Laurent Farm
48
Bartow
Midnight Run Distillary The Hancock Farm, LLC
Brooklet
Hunter Cattle
Brunswick
Gilliard Farms Richland Rum Sage’s Larder Strong Roots Provisions
Cobbtown
Dig In Farms
Baxley
Miles Berry Farm (Organic and Conventional) Ten Mile Creek Farm
Blackshear
Southern Press and Packing
Cumberland Island Greyfield Inn
Darien
Canewater Farm Turnip Greens
Bloomingdale Ottawa Farms
Douglas
Red Brick Farm
Blythe Island Potlikker Farm
Bristol and Brunswick Rabiteye Winery
Dublin
Dublin Farm and Ristorante de Maria Local Lands Organically Grown Gardens Market on Madison
a growing food movement
Eastman
Midway
Dodge County Farmers Market
Foods of the Farm
Eden
Milledgeville
Garden Botanicals
Comfort Farms Green Market Milledgeville Salamander Springs
Fitzgerald
El Capitan Longhorns
Mt. Vernon
Hardeman Apiaries
Glennville
Watermelon Creek Vinyard
Glenwood
Nahunta
Hands Indigo Farm Walnright and Son
Lola’s Organic Farm
Newington
Guyton
Better Fresh Farms Greenbridge Farm Heritage Organic Farms
Longwood Plantation Southern Native Plantings
Odem
Mickey’s Farm, Inc. (Organic Pure Cane Syrup)
Hinesville
The Hinesville Downtown Farmers Market
Jesup
Garden of Eatn Health Food Store
Pooler
Polks Plus and Polks Plus on the Go Savannah Sauce Company The Salt Table Two Addison Place Farmers Market
Kingsland
Vacuna Farms
Portal
Clark & Sons Organics
Lakeland
Gayla Grits Georgia Olive Farms
Lyons
Rackettown Wildlife Club
Register
B & G Honey Farms
Reidsville
Grassroots Farm Swampy Appleseed Mushrooms
Midville
Wildhaven Farm
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Southern SOIL
Richmond Hill
Billy Botanicals The Ford Plantation Hardwicke Farms Swallow Tail Farms
Rocky Ford
Jacob’s Produce
Sandersville
Downtown Sandersville Market
South Islands Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market Southbound Brewing Company The Fat Radish The Grey The Olde Pink House Restaurant The Salt Table The Sentient Bean Thrive Catering Vertu Farm Victory Gardens Wilmington Island Farmers Market
Springfield
Bootleg Farm, LLC
Savannah
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1540 Room 22 Square Restaurant Alligator Soul Back in the Day Bakery B & D Burgers Brighter Day Byrd’s Famous Cookies Cha Bella: Farm to Table Cotton and Rye East End Provisions Economy Feed and Seed Elizabeth on 37th Forsyth Farmers Market Fox and Fig Cafe Frali Gourmet Friendship Coffee Georgia Land and Cattle Gratitude Gardens Grow. Eat. Repeat. Husk Kayak Kafe Downtown Kayak Kafe Midtown Kitchen 320 Local 11ten Local Farmbag Lucky’s Market Moon River Brewing Company Ogeechee Meat Market Pacci Italian Kitchen Prohibitions Russo’s Seafood Savannah Bee Company Savannah Bee Company: Wilmington Island Showroom Service Brewing Company
St. Mary’s
Saint Mary’s Community Market
St. Simons Island
Georgia Sea Grill Halyards Restaurant Little St. Simons Island B&B Savannah Bee Company Sea Island Resort The Market Sea Island Uncle Don’s Market
Statesboro
920 Cattle & Co. Anthony’s Roots HL Franklin’s Healthy Honey Main Street Farmers Market Scratch Made Catering Sugar Magnolia Three Tree Roasters
Swainsboro
Pinetucky Country Meats The Sugar Bowl
a growing food movement
Sylvania
Waycross
4and20 Bakers Boddiford’s Deer Processing Hammons Flatland Farm Old Freeman Family Farm (Danny Anderson’s Real Feed, non-GMO) Savannah River Farms Victory Garden General Store Walker Organic Farms
Hickox Family Farm Waygreen Homestead Guild Waygreen Local Fare Market
Waynesboro Byne Blueberry Farms Pineland Bakery Southern Swiss Dairy
Townsend
Brothers in Farms, LLC Georgia Buffalo Ranch McCurdy Berries Sapelo Sea Farms The Fish Dock ZNL Farm
Woodbine Morning Belle Farms (Organic) Woodbine Farmers Market
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Southern SOIL
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