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Our man in Vancouver
On the apevine
Our man in Vancouver
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Skibbereen’s Owen Thornhill is enjoying fl ying the fl ag for West Cork and Ireland at one of America’s leading wineries, writes Brian Moore
SOME might say that it’s a long way from a family business specialising in electrical goods in Skibbereen to sampling and selling some of the best wines in America, but Owen Thornhill is living the American dream in more ways than one, surrounded by the lush vineyards of Washington State, USA.
Owen, who has become known as the ‘Irish Ambassador’ at Maryhill Winery tasting rooms in Vancouver, Washington State, moved to the Pacifi c Northwest with his wife Kaitlin and after a few jobs in the local area, took up a job at the vineyards belonging to Maryhill Winery. This multi-award winning establishment is one of Washington State’s largest and mostvisited wineries. It attracts more than 75,000 guests to the area annually, and was named the Pacifi c Northwest Winery of the Year in 2015.
‘I didn’t know much about wine when I started working in the production facility at Maryhill, so I set about getting to know the diff erent wines and learning about them,’ Owen said.
‘After a while I grew in knowledge and confi dence and became a server and tour guide, and in time the company made me head guide at the winery.’
Owen moved to the 4,890-squarefoot tasting room at the waterfront in Vancouver when it opened to customers for the fi rst time back in April of this year.
‘Here at the tasting rooms in Vancouver it’s more about those who want to stop in after work for a glass of wine, grab a plate of food and hear some live music,’ Owen says. ‘At Maryhill we have over 60 diff erent wines available so I began by learning as much about these as I could,’ Owen explained.
Washington State is the second largest wine producer in the USA, with over 50,000 acres producing varietals such as Merlot, the state’s most planted variety, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Syrah and Carménère to name a few others. While the vineyards of Washington State are known fi rst and foremost for heavier reds, there are some whites available as well, with Semillon, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris the highlights.
Back in the new tasting rooms in Vancouver, Owen oversees an impressive range of wines all produced at the Maryhill vineyards.
‘At the moment I have about 16 “favourites”. I’m learning something new everyday about the wines and at the moment topping my list is the Carménère from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, which is unique and fairly rare.’
Owen met his wife Kaitlin, who hails not far from Vancouver, at a soccer game in Cork City when she was studying there, and the couple have been married for six years.
When Owen, who became an American citizen two years ago while working at Maryhill, moved from the vineyard to his new position at the waterfront tasting room, he and his wife also set about purchasing their fi rst home together.
‘I am really enjoying the lifestyle and the work here in Vancouver. While the food isn’t as good as what’s available in West Cork, the climate here is good, with warm summers and cold dry winters. I won’t be going home for a while, as we are just settling into our new house, but my brother Richard has been over and he really enjoyed the outdoor activities such as mountain biking. My parents (Michael and Kathleen) were over to visit last year.
‘For now we’re settling into to our new home and I’m continuing to gain as much knowledge as I can about wine,’ Owen said. All in a day’s work.
There is one thing about home that he does miss however – ‘There are lots of good craft beers here in this region, but I do miss a good pint of Murphys!’
Produc profile Produc profile
Richard Graham Leigh
Who are you?
Richard Graham-Leigh, founder of Regale Biscuit Company Ltd. and West Cork Richard Graham-Leigh, founder of Regale Biscuit Company Ltd. and West Cork Biscuit Co. Since my mid-life crisis 30 years ago, when instead of going for a sports car and philandering, I abruptly changed careers – from retail management to cooking, as
Have you always had an interest in the food/beverage industry?
Since my mid-life crisis 30 years ago, when instead of going for a sports car and philandering, I abruptly changed careers – from retail management to cooking, as I was sick of retail and have always loved cooking.
What is the extent of your education in the industry?
I went back to college at the age of 43 to gain some professional qualifi cations, so I went back to college at the age of 43 to gain some professional qualifi cations, so I could get work as a chef. Then, through being in the right place at the right time I could get work as a chef. Then, through being in the right place at the right time (several times!), I managed to work at some seriously good places, and learned a huge amount ‘on the job’.
What led you to the particular area of the industry that you’re in now? What led you to the particular area of the industry that you’re in now?
Necessity. We had been restoring our old stone farmhouse near Dunmanway for Necessity. We had been restoring our old stone farmhouse near Dunmanway for about seven years, when we ran out of money (as you do), and needed some fairly about seven years, when we ran out of money (as you do), and needed some fairly quickly. At my last chef job in London I’d been making all sorts of top-quality hand-made foods, so it was simple to make some biscuits at home, and sell them hand-made foods, so it was simple to make some biscuits at home, and sell them at Clonakilty Farmers’ Market. They all sold the fi rst day, and that was the start. at Clonakilty Farmers’ Market. They all sold the fi rst day, and that was the start.
What have been the bigger challenges experienced along the way? What have been the bigger challenges experienced along the way?
Two major practical problems – how to fi nance growth, and distribution.
Have there been any crucial turning points in your career? Have there been any crucial turning points in your career?
The most important turning point was the day I linked up with my business partner, who is good at all the stuff I’m terrible at (selling, marketing, negotiating etc.).
Any early disasters?
Many. Starting a business from scratch is a great big learning curve (especially if you’re in it by accident), and you don’t know something is a mistake until you’ve you’re in it by accident), and you don’t know something is a mistake until you’ve done it. You need to be resilient and fl exible – or possibly stubborn and in blissdone it. You need to be resilient and fl exible – or possibly stubborn and in blissful ignorance.
What do you love most about your job?
Looking at the business, and seeing something which wasn’t there before: a number of high-quality products of which anyone could be proud – our own West ber of high-quality products of which anyone could be proud – our own West Cork Biscuit Co. range plus more than half-a-dozen private label brands - and a number of people working who otherwise might not be. number of people working who otherwise might not be.
Describe a typical day at work
Having reached an age when everything is starting to slow down a bit, I’ve tried Having reached an age when everything is starting to slow down a bit, I’ve tried to reduce my hours at the bakery. I still go in every day for a few hours, but the to reduce my hours at the bakery. I still go in every day for a few hours, but the day-to-day running of the business is now down to the really excellent triumviday-to-day running of the business is now down to the really excellent triumvirate of general manager Marion, bakery manager Piotr, and operations manager Vincent, while I focus on the general direction of the business and keeping the Vincent, while I focus on the general direction of the business and keeping the customers satisfi ed. I try not to interfere too much.
Any advice for anyone who wants get involved in the industry? Any advice for anyone who wants get involved in the industry?
Be sure there’s a market for your product, and that there aren’t loads of other Be sure there’s a market for your product, and that there aren’t loads of other people with the same idea. Go for quality and service – you’ll never be able to people with the same idea. Go for quality and service – you’ll never be able to compete with the big players on price. compete with the big players on price.
What makes West Cork such a vibrant place for food/drink producers? What makes West Cork such a vibrant place for food/drink producers?
A lucky combination – temperate weather – no extremes of anything as a rule; A lucky combination – temperate weather – no extremes of anything as a rule; fantastic grazing which makes for great dairy products and meat; a tradition of making food from scratch which never really disappeared here, and which has making food from scratch which never really disappeared here, and which has found new life in the last three decades. And of course, the people.
If you could do one thing to improve the lot of the producer in West Cork, If you could do one thing to improve the lot of the producer in West Cork, what would it be?
At the moment I’d like a nice hassle-free distribution network. Tomorrow it’ll be At the moment I’d like a nice hassle-free distribution network. Tomorrow it’ll be something else, but that’s the nature of business!
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