9 minute read
Too many cooks? Unfortunately not
The shortage of chefs in the Irish food industry is not a new problem, and if anything it’s getting worse. Niamh Hayes gets the views of some of those who are dealing with the situation on a daily basis
THEY are the people who feed us when we don’t feel like cooking. They are the people who spend an extra few seconds making our food look irresistible. They are the people who work evenings and weekends while the rest of us are sitting at home. These people are of course, chefs.
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Look at the local tourism industry in West Cork. Without chefs, the hundreds of restaurants, hotels and cafés would not be open. They keep the locals and visitors fed and watered every day of the week. They provide breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks for anyone who is hungry.
However, more and more premises are being forced to take actions such as closing for several days a week or closing for a few months of the year to try and deal with a growing issue – the diffi culty of hiring and retaining chefs.
One restaurant in Kinsale, Jim Edwards, has been advertising for a full-time chef since the start of the year but cannot fi ll the position. Owner Liam Edwards has tried locally and nationally, as well as contacting job agencies that say they have no chefs on their books. One would imagine that lots of chefs would jump at the chance of working somewhere such as West Cork, so why are restaurants and hotels fi nding it so hard to recruit them?
Richy Virahsawmy, owner of Richy’s Restaurant in Clonakilty, identifi es one major obstacle when it comes to hiring and retaining chefs. ‘Owners are forced to off er huge salaries to chefs, who are sometimes just out of college, because they won’t be able to fi nd someone otherwise. The owner then cannot aff ord to hire anyone else and the chef is left to work 60 plus hours a week which is unsustainable. Because of this, chefs often burn out and the owner is back to square one, looking for a replacement.’
The one advantage that Richy has is that he is an owner who is also a chef. If he is ever stuck for someone in the kitchen, he can step in without any disruption to the restaurant, as opposed to owners who have never worked in a kitchen before, it is much harder for them.
However, Richy has had his fair share of diffi culties when it comes to hiring chefs. ‘In the past couple of years I have been forced to utilise the non-EU work permit programme to employ two chefs because there was nobody available locally. We were turned down twice for this but after months of persistence, we got two great chefs. The process certainly is not easy,’ says Virahsawmy.
Perhaps hotels have somewhat of an advantage over restaurants because they also have revenue from functions and bedrooms, and maybe this allows them to be able to aff ord to pay their staff , including chefs, more than restaurants possibly could, or at the very least, maybe they are able to take the hit a bit better if their restaurant isn’t doing so well.
That being said, hotels also seem to be experiencing diffi culties. Alex Petit, Executive Chef at the Celtic Ross Hotel in Rosscarbery, says that the time it takes from the point of advertising for chefs to the time of recruiting them,
has increased considerably. has increased considerably.
‘It can take up to three or four ‘It can take up to three or four months. We now must come up months. We now must come up with interesting off ers such as with interesting off ers such as accommodation for potential accommodation for potential candidates to even look at the job candidates to even look at the job description. The pool we are choosing description. The pool we are choosing from is also reducing considerably. from is also reducing considerably. There are less and less passionate and There are less and less passionate and enthusiastic young chefs out there,’ enthusiastic young chefs out there,’ says Petit. says Petit.
Is it that fewer people are choosing Is it that fewer people are choosing to be chefs nowadays? Dr Noel to be chefs nowadays? Dr Noel Murray is the Head of Department Murray is the Head of Department of Tourism and Hospitality at Cork of Tourism and Hospitality at Cork Institute of Technology. He has seen Institute of Technology. He has seen a decrease in the numbers of people a decrease in the numbers of people entering culinary courses, but it is not entering culinary courses, but it is not just in Cork. When he speaks to his just in Cork. When he speaks to his colleagues across the country, they colleagues across the country, they are also experiencing the same thing. are also experiencing the same thing. The decreasing interest isn’t the only The decreasing interest isn’t the only jobs in locations such as West Cork,’ reason for the hiring diffi culty though. reason for the hiring diffi culty though. adds Murray.
‘Nowadays there are lots of ‘Nowadays there are lots of The message across the board seems alternative options when you fi nish alternative options when you fi nish to be that chefs generally don’t enter a culinary course, rather than going a culinary course, rather than going the industry for money, they do it to work in a hotel or restaurant. to work in a hotel or restaurant. because they have a passion for food Big multi-national companies have Big multi-national companies have and cooking. The key therefore to top-notch catering facilities and they top-notch catering facilities and they hiring and retaining chefs is to create a are hiring chefs to do the work,’ says are hiring chefs to do the work,’ says positive working environment, where Murray. Murray. chefs have a good work-life balance.
These companies can provide good These companies can provide good This coupled with a government and wages and sociable hours and can be wages and sociable hours and can be industry-led approach to education more appealing to newly qualifi ed more appealing to newly qualifi ed and training, to help attract new chefs. chefs. people into t he sector, should lead
‘Accommodation shortages can also ‘Accommodation shortages can also to less diffi culties for restaurants and be a deterrent to chefs applying for be a deterrent to chefs applying for hotels.
Liam Edwards of Jim Edwards bar Liam Edwards of Jim Edwards bar and restaurant in Kinsale has been and restaurant in Kinsale has been very vocal about the ongoing chef very vocal about the ongoing chef shortage in the Irish food industry. shortage in the Irish food industry.
jobs in locations such as West Cork,’ adds Murray.
The message across the board seems to be that chefs generally don’t enter the industry for money, they do it because they have a passion for food and cooking. The key therefore to hiring and retaining chefs is to create a positive working environment, where chefs have a good work-life balance. This coupled with a government and industry-led approach to education and training, to help attract new people into t he sector, should lead to less diffi culties for restaurants and hotels.
Noel Murray, Head of the Department of Tourism and Hospitality in CIT. Noel Murray, Head of the Department of Tourism and Hospitality in CIT.
CLONAKILTY CO. CORKResta ate profile LUNCH | DINNER PRIVATE PARTIES
Richy Virahsawmy
Who are you?
Richy Virahsawmy, chef-owner of Richy’s Restaurant & RCafe in Clonakilty. We’ve had it since 2002, so 17 years! My wife Johanna does the payroll, books and some pastry and I do day-to-day running of the business, menu planning, cooking etc.
How did you decide you wanted to be a restaurant owner?
I started working in kitchens when I was 14. I always felt I could do it and be my own boss so I set myself a goal to have my own restaurant before I was 26. I opened Richy’s 10 days before I turned 26!
What type of training have you had?
I trained in London Catering College. Then worked my way up through the kitchen ranks; kitchen porter, 1st commis chef, demi chef de partie, chef de partie, junior sous chef, sous chef, senior sous and then head chef and executive head chef. After all that I was ready to set out on my own.
What challenges have you experienced along the way?
In the beginning the enthusiasm, energy and excitement really keeps you going. The amount of decisions that you have to make daily is sometimes overwhelming. In your normal day one probably solves three problems in the fi rst 10 minutes of the day alone.
How has the hospitality industry changed over the years?
The dining scene has changed. At the moment the trend seems to be towards more casual settings. Trends come and go a lot faster than before. As we are all more travelled, we see a lot more international cuisines too. Social media plays a huge part of engaging with guests.
What do you love most about your job?
I love that every day is diff erent. I also enjoy problem solving and engaging with the guests.
What’s your least favourite part of the job?
Long hours probably, but in fairness as the business has matured I do manage to get a really good work-family balance nowadays.
What qualities are important for a restaurant owner?
Patience, ability to work well under pressure, problem solving and also to have a good understanding of fi nances. Also a positive outlook when shit hits the fan keeps you going!
Would you change anything about your journey so far?
No wouldn’t change a thing, it’s been a learning curve. We could have done without the fl oods for sure though.
Do you enjoy dining out or is it too close to work?
023 8821673 | ARISCAFE.COM I love dining out. Its interesting to see diff erent operations. We are spoilt having such good restaurants in West Cork.
Any disasters early on in your career?
Six fl oods, a recession, two years of roadworks and now again two years of roadworks. The journey has been testing to say the least.
Any advice for anyone who wants to own their own café/restaurant?
Oh yes, do a basic electrician’s course – also plumbing and fi nance. Do the maths and business plan. Don’t just go into any business with rose-tinted glasses. Just because you love food doesn’t make one a great business person. It is not the easiest business to make a living.
What’s your favourite dish from Richy’s Summer menu?
Whole boat fi sh with baby potatoes and salsa verde – a cracking dish with summer fl avours, just what I would order if on holidays!
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