issue 38
aug/sept 2018
Southern Trout
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Cherokee County North Carolina ANDREWS | MURPHY | BRASSTOWN
Open For All Seasons
ARTS | RECREATION | HISTORY | FESTIVALS WE HAVE IT ALL!
www.visitcherokeecountync.com info@visitcherokeecountync.com 828-557-0602 2 l June 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Publisher's message
RE-THINKING SNAKES Every time I bring up the subject of
snakes in the wild, I receiver letters stating “that-a-boy” to outright death threats. Normally I ignore much of what is said both ways knowing that I am fully capable of defending myself. However, I am fully aware that the tide is against me and those of similar mind. I site as an example that several southern wildlife agencies are visibly concerned that people such as me would applaud when the last rattlesnake was killed. States all across Southern Trout land appear to side with snakes, and especially the species of rattlesnakes. All states offer protection of rattlers and copperheads and cottonmouth (the latter is of little concern to trout fishermen). Rattlers and copperheads are
another matter. The problem is we don’t go to our favorite trout stream looking for them. The woods are their home and biting is how they make a living. Over the years I have encountered both rattlers and copperheads, probably a couple a year. I was never bitten by either, but I have been struck at by both. I was always pretty secure when in the woods and most surprise encounters mutually were of an equal shock to all involved. Once while partying in the Cherokee Nation Forest near Hot Spring, a girl got a copperhead tangled up in the baggy part of the surplus navy bellbottoms she was wearing. She shrieked and ran over a hundred yards before the viper gave up its fangs to end the ride. During those days I pretty much left pit vipers along when encountered on their turf. Such was not the case when they were encountered in or near my home. I kept a garden hoe handy for these circumstances. All things considered, unless it was a truly large rattler, it remains my weapon choice. Shotguns offer a degree of safety. For the record, I do carry a garden hoe when fishing, but I might consider a shotgun loaded with buckshot Copperheads and rattlers having the poor luck of cross a road that I am travel are imperiled. Should I see them on side of the road, I swerve and then slam on the brakes to skid them. Perhaps is it especially sporting, the rundown viper usually is put out of action. The odds of it biting anyone are slim to none.
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Anderson Creek Retreat Anderson Creek Retreat is your basecamp for a healthy outdoor lifestyle on 1,200 acres next to the National Forest, less than ninety minutes from Atlanta near the historic mountain towns of Ellijay and Blue Ridge. We’re in outdoor recreation country known for trout fishing, hiking, whitewater rivers, horseback riding, mountain biking and cycling. Amicalola Falls State Park and the Appalachian Trail are just over the ridge. The 4,000-foot ridges of Rich Mountain Wilderness are across the Cartecay River Valley. Home sites average more than four acres and offer backdoor access to twelve miles of trails through a landscape of springs, trout streams, high mountain ridges, hardwood forests, pastures, meadows and the 19th century homestead ruins. Conservation easements with the Georgia Land Trust protect a mile of Anderson Creek and Anderson Lake for catch and release fly fishing for rainbow and brown trout. Check us out on the web at www.andersoncreekretreat.com. Call 706-635-5124 or email land@andersoncreekretreat.com.
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Southern Trout
So you might ask me, those road threading copperheads and rattlers, what danger were they before I mashed them flat? This the crux of the matter. It is a personal choice that I am Publisher Don Kirk Managing Editor Leah Kirk quite comfortable with. So years ago while Special Projects Dir. Loryn Lathem running trails Panther Creek State Park while Photographer/Writer Adam Patterson passing through a picnic area, I encountered Editorial Consultant Olive K. Nynne the copperhead I hadn’t seen in a while. Thirty feet beyond on the trail was a young mother Contributors with what I guessed was a three years old child. I took my hiking staff and flipped the Harry Murray copperhead off of the trail. Three days later I Kevin Howell encountered the top of a big rock only feet from where I had flipped him off of the trail. This time instead of flipping the copperhead off of FIELD STAFF the trail, I bashed its broad head, continuing to Ron Gaddy bludgeoned the viper until it gave up the spirit. Columnist I know for a fact that it never ever bit a kid or a Jimmy Jacobs, dog after that day. Georgia Editor Roger Lowe You may not agree with my attitude toward Columnist pit vipers, and I am okay with that. I simply do Rocky Cox not adhere to any laws that protect them. Odds Columnist are low that a child or dog will get bitten by one, Steve Moore but one thing is certain, after encountering me, Columnist no one ever has been. Columnist
Polly Dean Columnist Bob Mallard
ON THE COVER
Mandy Hertzfeld Inspired by fly fishing, my artwork is a direct reflection of my passions. Creating paintings that capture the relationships Southern Trout is a publication between fish, flies, and the natural environment of Southern Unlimited, LLC. Copyright 2018 Southern Unlimited is both challenging and fulfilling. Just like painting, each day on the river is a blank slate; LLC. All rights reserved. a white canvas waiting for an interpretation and someone to figure it out, pay attention to its details, and give it meaning 6 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
THIS ISSUE Publisher's Message
3
Rediscovering Big Creek
14
Hello to a River Rediscovering Tennssee's Caney Fork River
26
Trout Fishing in Shenandoah National Park
40
14
Sunburst Trout 72 Low Carb Rainbow Yum New Fly Guy All About Bobbers
80
Your Chance of Finding a Trout Far Exceed Those of Finding a Snake
90
Olive Blackwing The Stud
40
26
102
Genuine Smoky Mountain 106 Trout Flies Loop Evotec Cast Fly Rod Review
120
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80
THIS ISSUE
90
Battle of Gatlinburg
126
Forty Years of a Fun Ride
134
134
62 106
90
120 40 104
170
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experience counts for everything Meet Brian Lynch, one of the most innovative anglers and best guides in the business. Professionals like Brian are our first call when we need boots on the ground (and in the water), and our go-to team when it comes to understanding what truly makes a great rod. Their knowledge, their expertise, their understanding is passed on to our craftsmen who strive for perfection and uncompromising performance in every rod we make. To us, Brian and his fellow professionals are our unsung heros. We salute you. Brian calls Western Massachusetts home and can be found working the Deerfield river virtually all year round.
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Yep, it’s just that easy with Western North Carolina’s premier fly shop and guide service. Kevin Howell and his experienced staff have been fishing the surrounding 500 miles of prime trout waters so long, they know all the fish on first name basis. And they’ll be more than happy to make a few introductions.
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GUIDE SERVICES | ONLINE & RETAIL STORE | LESSONS
Rediscoverin By Jimmy Jacobs
B
ig Creek in Fannin County has been a bit of an enigma throughout my angling career in the Peach State. To begin with, such a common name invites confusion when conversing about the stream. Knowledgeable Georgia anglers are more likely to think of Big Creek as being the stream in Rabun County that flows into Three Forks to join Overflow and Holcomb creeks in forming the West Fork of the Chattooga River.
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ng Big Creek Big Creek flows through a level and picturesque mountain valley. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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T he Fannin County version, however, forms high on the eastern shoulder of Rich Mountain in Gilmer County, then enters Fannin County to flow northward and empty into the Toccoa River. Along that course, it goes from being a small flow to medium–sized before reaching its mouth. The headwaters are on public land in the Rich Mountain Wildlife Management Area but are remote, hard to reach and the creek is so small it garners little attention from anglers. Lower down it is mostly on private land, skirting only a couple of patches of national forest property that are open to the public. Big Creek has some wild trout, basically rainbows, but the public areas have traditionally and continue to be stocked with fish as well. Presently, those stockings take place twice per month from April to July, then once per month until Labor Day. The other part of the puzzle of Big Creek that has haunted me has been finding access to it. Back in the 1980s I first went looking for the stream. One of the public portions starts at the bridge crossing beside the Big Creek Baptist Church on Big Creek Road. During that initial adventure, I parked in the church lot and walked down to the flow. There was then a large pool, a bit deeper than the rest of the stream, with a couple of steps cut into the bank. It was the baptismal pool used by the church’s pastor and congregation. One can only imagine that being dunked into an icy trout stream would certainly put the fear of the Lord into the newly saved! 16 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Jason Beck approaching the bend pool in Big Creek. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs
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Dalton Tankersley (right) guided Jason Beck to his kip-jawed 22-incher. Photo by JimmyvJacobs.
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On that weekday I chose to baptize a No. 12 Royal Wulff in the pool and proceeded to catch a pair of 9-inch rainbows, making the spot something akin to holy water to me. Revisiting the spot more recently, it appeared the congregation has taken their ritual indoors and the pool has subsequently silted in. Through the decades since first visiting Big Creek, I’ve dropped in a few times, but more out of curiosity than hopes for great fishing. The access was just too skimpy to allow even a couple of hours of fishing. I more or less wrote Big Creek off as a good fishing destination. That all changed this past spring. I was in Blue Ridge to attend the Georgia Outdoor Writers Association annual conference that was being held in conjunction with the Blue Ridge Trout Festival & Outdoor Adventures (blueridgetroutfest. com). While attending, I also got an invitation to visit Fly Fish Blue Ridge, which owns roughly a mile of Big Creek’s course. The run is located on the lower portion of the stream where it is of medium size. Here the creek passes through a level valley of mixed pastures and woodlands, framed against a backdrop of mountain peaks www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 19
Owner Gene Rutkowski has been operating his fullservice guide business on the creek for the last 15 years. Besides offering the opportunity to fish the creek with guides, the service also can provide rods, flies and other gear as needed. I was joined on the steam by Jason Beck, a newspaper report from Blue Ridge, and we were guided by Dalton Tankersley. Dalton has been guiding at Fly Fish Blue Ridge for a couple of years. During that time he personally has landed a 33inch brown trout from Big Creek, while also guiding one of his clients to a 30-inch rainbow. Needless to say with fish that size, stocking and supplemental feeding of the fish does occur on this portion of Big Creek. Tossing a mix of dry flies and nymphs, both Jason and I soon hooked fish, but not the giants we knew were in the creek. Instead, we tangled with brightly colored rainbows in the 10- to 15-inch range. Those fish seemed to inhabit every run, pool or depression in the bottom of the creek. 20 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
The author with his 24-inch rainbow from Big Creek. Photo by Gene Rutkowski.
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Moving upstream along a pasture fence line, Jason cast up to a bend pool in the stream. As his fly arced around the bend over deeper water and reached the point the creek straightened, his strike indicator hesitated. A quick hook set caused the water to part with a much larger trout thrashing on the surface. After a short fight, he led the fish into Dalton’s waiting net. The tale of the tape put the length of the kip-jawed male rainbow at 22 inches. 22 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
The smaller trout from Big Creek are colorful and plentiful. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
The rest of the afternoon yielded a couple of more 20-plus-inch rainbows, with an abundance of smaller ones. Eventually, while fishing another deep bend pool, I even got into some big fish action, bringing a 24-inch rainbow to heel. By the end of the day, the fishing at Blue Ridge Fly Fishing had proven so good that it moved my fishing trip in the baptismal pool into second place among the spiritual angling experiences I’ve had on Big Creek, For more information about Fly Fishing Blue Ridge, visit blueridgeflyfishing.com.
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Win a Free 2-Day Fly Fishing Trip to Bryson City in the North Carolina Smokies k c i l C to Hereter En
Enter to win by signing up for a free subscription to Southern Trout Magazine. If you are already a subscriber, you are already entered! Published six times a year, Southern Trout is the only magazine devoted exclusively to fly fishing for trout in the South. You will also receive the information-packed weekly ST e-Newsletter. The winner receives • A two-night stay at a 2-bedroom luxury mountain cabin managed by Carolina Mountain Vacations • A half-day guided float fishing trip for 2 on the Tuckasegee River, with Fly Fishing the Smokies • A half-day guided wading trip for 2 in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with Fly Fishing the Smokies
Bryson City is located on the southern edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, a hour west of Asheville. There’s trout fishing in the national park; on the Cherokee Indian Reservation; on the Nantahala,
Good for any weekday January to June 15, 2019 excluding holidays. Winner is responsible for fishing licenses and transportation. Winner must schedule trips/stay no less than 30 days in advance. Trips/stay must be taken before June 15, 2019. Contest closes November 30, 2018. Winner will be announced on social media and SouthernTrout.com. The email addresses of subscribers will only be used to send out Southern Unlimited magazines (Southern Trout & Southern Kayak Fishing), and their respective e-newsletters. Under no circumstances are subscriber email addresses used otherwise or made available to any third party.
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Oconaluftee, Tuckasegee and Little Tennessee rivers; and on two mountain lakes – Fontana and Cheoah. The Tuck now has a delayed harvest section at Bryson City. For more information, visit GreatSmokiesFishing.com.
Hello to a River
Getting Reacquainted with Tennessee’s Caney Fork River By Tom Adkinson
26 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
F
or the last couple of decades, I’ve not seen much of a very good friend. It’s not for lack of opportunity that the relationship cooled. Indeed, I could have stopped in dozens – perhaps hundreds – of times as I zipped along I-40 between Nashville and Knoxville. I kept saying I’d drop in for a visit, but work was at one end of that drive, and home was at the other. I’d wave, at least mentally, and recall the good times we used to have. Now, I realize that my friend, while largely looking the same, has changed and that I must almost start afresh if there is to be a rekindled connection. My old friend is the Caney Fork River, one of the best tailwaters trout streams in Tennessee, perhaps in the entire Southeast.
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It is difficult to miss the Caney Fork from behind the steering wheel. I-40 crosses this serpentine stream five times – yes, five times – in about four miles, and the roadside signs don’t just proclaim the river’s name. It’s as if each “Caney Fork River” sign has a subscript that reads, “Exit Now. You Know You Want To Stop.” The Caney Fork River is quite a stream. It flows through 11 Tennessee counties of the Cumberland Plateau and the Highland Rim for 143 miles before emptying into the Cumberland River at Carthage. In fact, it’s the largest tributary to the Cumberland. The last 28 miles are the ones that interest trout fishermen. That’s because 28 miles upstream from Carthage is the giant concrete slab called Center Hill Dam, a U.S. Corps of Engineers structure built in 1948 for recreation and flood control. Most people think the recreational value is behind the dam in Center Hill Lake, but trout fishermen know better. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 29
Water flowing from the dam is a troutfriendly 58 degrees. The Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency puts more than 220,000 rainbow, brown and (here lately) brook trout into the fishery. Many of the stockers are caught very quickly – and there’s no denying the fun of a 10- or 12-inch fish – but the holdovers are impressive. Fishermen frequently bring chunky browns and rainbows more than 20 inches long to net, and the state record brook trout (4 pounds 12 ounces) came from the Caney Fork. The fact that it was caught on April Fool’s Day is of no consequence. I often reflect on my days on the Caney Fork and now vow to create some new memories. In my twenties, I recall taking a friend on a canoe float
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on a frigid autumn day that had us layered up against the cold. I suspect we had life jackets in the canoe, but I’m certain we didn’t wear them. We unthinkingly courted disaster, a behavior I promised never to repeat when the realization of cold air, icy water and heavy clothing dawned on me. In my thirties, I took a church friend for his first Caney Fork trip. He wasn’t much of an outdoorsman, but I beached the canoe on a gravel bar and gave him the most elementary fly rod lesson. He was ecstatic when he caught a 12-inch rainbow, and his joyous expression was a highlight of the day. Two years later, he was gone, a cancer victim, and I found some solace recalling that day on the Caney Fork with him.
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In my forties, I took my boss, a good flyfisherman, on the river. He was a corporate CEO of the first magnitude, but he didn’t act that way at work, and he certainly didn’t on the river. We existed on the same plane when we had fly rods in hand, and for that I am grateful to the Caney Fork. For most of the next two decades, I’ve been enticed by small mountain streams, particularly in East Tennessee and Southwest Virginia, but my lapsed friendship with the Caney Fork began bothering me. Jim Mauries, owner of Fly South in Nashville, became sort of a relationship coach – make that trout coach – and visiting with him has encouraged me to renew my relationship with water so close to home. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 33
He was quick to warn me about a new hazard/ distraction. It’s the abundance of recreational canoeists and kayakers, many unfamiliar with being outdoors, much less understanding etiquette. “Especially in summer and on weekends, you have to learn patience. There could be 500 or 600 boats pass you, some directly where you’re fishing. If you’re wading, expect to be hit,” Mauries said, noting that every one of his Fly South guides has rescued an unskilled boater. Because of power generation, water levels can vary dramatically. Just as I ignored the river for so many years, it will ignore me in a heartbeat when the dam’s turbines start turning. I know to trust generation schedules only up to a point and to head for the bank as soon as I perceive a change in flow. 34 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Wading is a pleasure when there is little or no generation, but the Caney Fork has almost no structure that creates lies for the numerous trout. That makes it a highly visual river requiring serious study. “It’s all about microcurrents and small differences in depth. Half the battle is finding the fish, and the other half is figuring out what they’re feeding on,” he said, noting that scuds, sowbugs and midges are abundant and always should be in my flybox. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 35
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I cringed when he spoke about using flies down to #26, but I perked up when he spoke about taking 20-inch browns in less than a foot of water and when he noted that ants, beetles and hoppers sometimes turn the trick. Getting to know my old friend is proving to be a lot of fun.
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Trout Fishing
Shenandoah National Park
By Harry Murray
40 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
in
h
T
he beautiful streams in the Shenandoah National Park provide some of the finest fishing for wild brook trout that one can want. When the Park was formed in 1935 their Fisheries Management Plan was and continues to be twofold: "1) To preserve and perpetuate the native brook trout as an integral component of the Park's aquatic ecosystem and 2) to allow for recreational angling."
The wonderful remote brook trout streams in the Park all begin as small brooks high in the mountains.
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David Haskell, the former chief fisheries biologist for the Park carefully fishes a remote stream. He asked the author 25 years ago to write the book Trout Fishing in the Shenandoah National Park in order to show anglers how to find many of the wonderful streams that are seldom fished. 42 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
As you fish the Park today you quickly realize that through careful stream studies and wise management programs these goals are well preserved and protected. For example, over 25 years ago David Haskell who was the chief fisheries biologist in the Park at the time came to me and asked me to write a book on the trout fishing in the many fine streams in the Park. David said, "Most anglers are fishing only two or three streams and they are missing out on some wonderful trout fishing." Thus I wrote the book Trout Fishing in the Shenandoah National Park and did a major revision in 2010 listing 28 separate streams. However, as strange as it seems many of these wonderful streams are seldom fished. In order to help you find good fishing in the Park let's first look at seasonal angling tactics, the aquatic insect hatches and productive flies. Then we'll cover some of the best streams, showing the best access points. Good fishing can begin in mid-March in the Park because when the water temperature holds at 40 degrees for several days the brook trout start feeding well if there is a normal water level. This is also the time that our aquatic insects begin hatching in good numbers. However, even if the streams are carrying a very full water level you can get good fishing by parking on the Skyline Drive and hiking down the trails to fish the upper sections of the streams. Or you can park at the lower park boundary and hiking several miles up the mountain to get above some of the high water.
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The Epeorus pleuralis mayfly is the first heavy hatch in these mountains and the trout feed well on these naturals from mid-March until mid-April. Anglers know this as the Quill Gordon and it is one of the hatches I developed the Mr. Rapidan Dry Fly to match. Both of these flies in size 14 are very effective in the Park. Art Flick was a great help in identifying our insects when I undertook this project in the seventies. The Paraleptophlebia adaptiva is our next major hatch and these are well matched with the Blue Quill Dry Fly size 16. These start in late March and last until late April. This delicate little mayfly is very heavy on many Park streams and during the beginning of the hatch the cold water and cool air can slow down the getaway of the duns from the nymph shuck. When this occurs I've seen dozens of them floating around and around in the back eddies with several large brook trout sipping them in.
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The wild brook trout in the Park feed heavily on the great mayfly hatches in the spring. (see the hatch chart)
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The Stenonema vicarium is our next Park hatch and it's a dandy. Starting in mid-April and lasting into May it is our largest mayfly which is present in large numbers. This is well matched with the March Brown Dry Fly and the Mr. Rapidan Dry Fly both in size 14. The Stenonema fuscum (Gray Fox) and Stenonema canadense (Light Cahill) follow the March Brown and last through May but these hatches are not nearly as heavy as the March Brown hatch.
The Mr. Rapidan Dry Fly which the author developed 20 years ago to match the natural Epeorus pleuralis and the Stenonema vicarium mayflies is one of the most effective flies in the Park in the spring in sizes 14 and 16. 46 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
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However, the Ephemerella dorothea (Sulphur) hatch begins in mid-May and last through June and this can be a very heavy hatch. I well remember one evening when my son and I were camped in the upper reaches of a Park stream that a long narrow pool just above our tent had eleven brook trout feeding on sulphur spinners. Putting on Murray's Sulphur Dry Fly size 16 we both had outstanding fishing.
Both the density and longevity of the hatches of the little yellow stoneflies make it very important to both the trout and the anglers in the Park.
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One specific stonefly hatch, the Isoperla bilineata, holds its own in density with our best mayfly hatches and surpasses them all in longevity. These delicate little yellow beauties begin hatching in April and can last until July. They are well matched with Murray's Little Yellow Dry Stonefly size 16.
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From June through September natural terrestrial insects become an important part of these trouts' diet. Black ants, a broad variety of beetles and mountain wasp are all present in great numbers along these streams and the trout feed heavily upon all of them. Flies which are very productive at this time are the Mr. Rapidan Ant sizes 14 to 20, Murray's Flying Beetle sizes 14 to 18 and Shenk's Cricket size 16.
The best fishing in the Park is from the middle of March through June. By parking at the trail heads on the Skyline Drive and hiking down to the upper reaches of the streams you will usually get the finest dry fly fishing the Park offers. During the summer the streams usually get low and the fishing is very challenging. However, by using a very cautious approach, a 6X or 7X leader and the terrestrials mentioned you can still catch trout. The brook trout spawn from early October until late November and most anglers believe it is best not to stress them by fishing at this time. After early December the streams become so cold that the trout do not feed well. 50 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
The brook trout is the king in the Shenandoah National Park.
Most Park anglers like fly rods that are 6 1/2 feet to 7 1/2 feet long that balance with a number three line. Reels that weight less than four ounces that are very durable are ideal for the rough treatment they receive in these streams. Either a vest or a chest pack will work well in these mountains just be sure it will enable you to carry a good lightweight breathable raincoat. Because of the presence of rattlesnakes and copperheads in these mountains I always carry a Sawyer Extractor Snake Bite Kit.
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The author fishes many of the finest trout stream in the country every year and he rates the Shenandoah National Park streams close to the top of the list. 52 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
My basic fly selection for the Park includes the Mr. Rapidan Dry Fly sizes 14, 16, & 18, Quill Gordon Dry size 14, Blue Quill Dry size 16, Gray Fox Dry size 14, Light Cahill Dry size 14, Murray's Sulphur Dry size 16, March Brown Dry size 14, Murray's Little Yellow Stonefly Dry size 16, Shenk's Cricket size 16, Mr. Rapidan Dry Ant sizes 14 to 20, Olive Elk Hair Caddis size 16, Murray's Flying Beetle size 14 to 18, Mr. Rapidan Bead Head Nymph sizes 12 and 14, March Brown Nymph size 14, and Mr. Rapidan Soft Hackle, Olive size 14 and 16.
continued pg 56
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Stream Locations
Some of the streams can be reached from outside the Park’s boundaries, however, in many cases privately owned land prevents access at the lower reaches of the stream. If lower stream access is not covered on a specific stream, there is no lower access. Do not trespass on private land! All stream accesses are keyed to the PATC maps (sources at the end of this story), and having these maps is strongly recommended before going into the Park’s backcountry. In some cases the trails are lightly used and can be difficult to follow without these maps. The following streams are listed alphabetically with a few minor exceptions which will be self-explanatory. The milepost marker’s numbered from north to south, are at one mile intervals along the Skyline Drive, and are clearly visible. The trail heads are marked with concrete posts on which metal bands give clear directions and distances for specific trails. Big Run Many anglers believe Big Run is the finest stream in the Park. There are two trails into Big Run from the Skyline Drive. The easiest access is to park at Doyles River Parking on the east side of the Skyline Drive just south of Milepost 81. From the Big Run Overlook take the Big Run Loop Trail, which connects with the Big Run Portal Trail 2.2 miles down the mountain. The stream is quite small here so you will probably want to hike down this trail toward Rocky Mountain Run. The second access point is from Brown Mountain Overlook at Milepost 77. Take the Brown Mountain Trail down 0.7 miles to the Rocky Mountain Run Trail, and follow this 2.7 miles down to Big Run. There is no legal access at the lower end of this stream. Cedar Run The lower Park boundary provides the best access to this stream. Route 600 leads to the upper parking area. Take the White Oak Trail 0.1 mile west to the Cedar Run Trail which is the first trail to the left after crossing the metal bridge. This trail follows the stream. This is an excellent little stream but it gets very low in the summer.
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Since the late seventies the author has been studying the aquatic insects in the Park. Art Flick was a great help to him in identifying these insects. (see hatch chart) www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 59
Jeff Murray, the author's son, enjoys fishing the small headwater streams in the Park in the spring.
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Conway River This stream flows in and out of the Park, but since the state portion is managed the same as the Park’s streams, I’m including it here. Route 667 through Fletcher is the main access. Do not park in the two parking lots but park along the edge of Route 667 out of way of private land owners. The alternate way into the Conway is by Route 662 and 615 across a sometimes very rough road. Going in is not too bad, but one wet spring day I was very concerned about getting back up that mountain road. This road hits the stream only a short distance above where you can reach via 667 so you really don’t gain much. East Branch Naked Creek The best access to this stream is from the Naked Creek Overlook just south of Milepost 53 on the western side of the Skyline Drive. There is no legal access at the lower end of this stream. From the overlook, hike down the left side of the grassy area past the tree line. Swinging left and down the mountain, you may be able to locate an old trail. Though rugged, this is one of the most beautiful parts of the Park. Hughes River The top of this stream can be reached from two different trails from the Skyline Drive. The Corbin Cabin Cutoff Trail provides good access if you park at the Shaver Hollow parking area just north of Milepost 38. This trail meets the Nicholson Hollow Trail 1.4 miles down the mountain. The latter trail parallels the stream to the lower park boundary. You can also park at Stony Man Overlook between Milepost 38 and 39. About one hundred yards north is the head of the Nicholson Hollow Trail. Follow this 1.8 miles down to the stream. There is also access at the lower Park boundary. Take Route 600 from Nethers to the bus parking lot for Old Rag Mountain. About a half mile on the right take the Nicholson Hollow Trail up into the Park. Ivy Creek The easiest access is at Pinefield Gap on the Skyline Drive. Park at the gate just south of Milepost 75 and walk north about one hundred yards to the Appalachian Trail. Take this trail east down to Pinefield Hut. From here, down to the stream, you must follow this drainage hollow. This stream supports a good trout population throughout the entire drainage, even in the upper section. There is no legal access at the lower end of this stream.
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Jeremy’s Run Access to this stream is from the Skyline Drive at the lower side of the Elkwallow Picnic area at Milepost 24. Park in the second parking area, and take the connecting trail for less than one hundred yards to the Appalachian Trail. This trail meets the Jeremy’s Run Trail in a short distance, where the former makes a sharp turn to the left. The Jeremy’s Run Trail follows the stream its full length. Madison Run Access to the lower Park boundary can be gained by parking on Route 708 and hiking up the Madison Run Road. Top access is available by parking at the Brown Gap parking area at Milepost 83 on the western side of the Skyline Drive. Hike down the Madison Run Road. Since the stream flow is small up high and it’s about a four mile hike down to good water most anglers go in at the lower Park boundary. Meadow Run Many anglers know this stream as Riprap. There is access at the lower end north of Rt. 612. The best access is from the Wildcat Ridge Parking area on the Skyline Drive just south of Milepost 92. Hike down the Wildcat Ridge Trail 2.7 miles to Riprap Trail which follows the stream. There is good fishing both above and below this point. Another access point is from the Riprap Trail parking area at Milepost 90. A seventy foot connector trail takes you to the Appalachian Trail which meets Riprap Trail in 0.4 miles. Follow Riprap Trail down to the stream. The best water is about three miles down the mountain from this parking area. North Fork Moormans River This stream is managed as a “Catch and Release” stream in which no trout can be killed. Access to the lower Park boundary is available from Route 614, which is also known as the Sugar Hollow Road. Park at the upper end of the reservoir and follow this same road up along the stream through the Park gate. The top of the stream is accessed by parking at the Blackrock Gap parking lot just south of Milepost 87. Walk across the Skyline Drive and hike down the North Fork Moormans River Road The cover, food, and fishing are better in the upper half of this stream than in the lower half.
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Early in the summer the author gets good trout fishing in the Park by using a cautious approach.
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Wouldn't you love to be able to slip back a hundred years and talk to the folks who lived in these mountains long before the Park was formed.
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Paine Run Bottom access is good on this stream by parking on route 661 and hiking up Paine Run Trail. Park on the north side of the stream. Don’t block bus turnaround spot. At the top you can park at Blackrock Gap parking lot south of Milepost 87, and follow the above trail down the stream. From this point it is only 3.7 miles to the lower park boundary, and the trail follow the stream affording good access. Piney River This stream is accessible from the top by parking at the Piney River Ranger Station on the Skyline Drive just south of Milepost 22. Hike down the Range View Cabin Road to where the Piney Branch Trail leads off to the left. This last trail follows the stream to the bottom of the mountain. There is also bottom access from Route 600. Parking is a problem here; there is room along Route 600 just east of 653 for one or two cars. Please do not block any of the private roads in this area. There is no Park land in this immediate area. Hike up the trail to the Park boundary before you start fishing. Pocosin River This stream is accessible from the Skyline Drive by parking in the area for the Pocosin Cabin, halfway between Milepost 59 and 60. Hike down the Pocosin Fire Road until you come to the Pocosin Hollow Trail, take this to your left, and it leads you to the stream. You can also access this stream at the bottom of the mountain by taking Route 667 from Route 230 through Kinderhook. Park in the wide grassy spot where Pocosin River runs into the Conway River. Hike up the trail until you reach Park land before you start fishing. The lower part is on private land. I’ve always felt it is one of the prettiest in the Park. Rapidan River The lower section of this stream holds the largest trout and produces the best hatches. This section is accessible by Route 662 through Wolftown and Graves Mill. Park at the end of this road. There is a good trail all along this section of the stream. The central part of the stream is accessible from Criglersville by Route 649/670. There is a good parking spot where this road meets the stream and you can easily walk downstream to the section holding the large trout or you can fish upstream from here. The road upstream from here can be very rough. This is a “fish for fun” (no kill stream). www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 65
Rose River Top access is available by parking at the Fishers Gap parking area just south of Milepost 49 and hiking down the Rose River Fire Road, which follows the lower twothirds of the stream to the lower Park boundary. An alternate trail to the uppermost part of the river is available by parking at the above area, but shortly after starting down the mountain on the Rose River Fire Road take the Rose River Loop Trail to your left. One half mile down the trail take a blue blazed trail to your right for another 0.5 mile to the stream. Top access can also be gained by parking at the Dark Hollow Falls parking area and following the Dark Hollow Falls Trail down to the Rose River Fire Road and then following the fire road down to the river. There is bottom access from Route 670 west of Syria. Do not block the road, preventing its use by Park Rangers.
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Staunton River This is the feeder to the Rapidan River, and it can be reached by Route 662 from Graves Mill. Park at the parking lot at the end of the road and follow Graves Mill Trail to the Staunton River Trail. This stream is managed as a Catch and Release fishery requiring that no fish be killed. Thornton River, North Fork Route 612 provides access to the lower portion of this stream. This road is used by residents with homes in this area, so do not block the road. Be willing to park east of the houses and walk in. Hike up the Thornton Hollow Trail into the Park. There is access into the head of this stream via the Thornton Hollow Trail, which leaves the Skyline Drive halfway between Mileposts 25 and 26. The stream is small here, but hiking down the mountain will get you into more water.
The wild brook trout in the Shenandoah National Park provide great fishing for anglers of all skill levels.
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When you see the trillium blooming in the Park you can expect great mayfly hatches and rising brook trout.
White Oak Canyon Run The many beautiful waterfalls, the inspiring scenery and the good trout fishing, all make this a stream worth visiting. The top access is by parking at Limberlost, just east of the Skyline Drive at Milepost 43. Hike 0.1 mile down Old Rag Fire Road to White Oak Canyon Trail. Follow this trail to the right, and it takes you down to the stream, providing good stream access all the way to the bottom of the mountain. Route 600 west of Syria provides good access to the lower part of the stream. Park in the area beside the stream and follow White Oak Canyon Trail up along the stream. Reflections There are a number of exciting things about fishing the Park's streams, which I'll leave for you to discover on your own. A large part of the fascination of these streams is the individual personality they develop as you come to know each one. It would be meaningless, and a disservice, for me to attempt to reveal these hidden characteristics of endearment and challenge. What I see, you may not see, and you may see much more than I. 68 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Angling in the Shenandoah National Park is more than catching beautiful wild trout, more than inhaling its striking beauty, more than sinking into its peaceful solitude; it is a filling, of a previously undetected void, with an emotion of complete satisfaction that only God can give.
Information Sources
Shenandoah Publishing Co. 121 S. Main St./P. O. Box 156 Edinburg VA 22824 Ph 540-984-4212 email: info@murraysflyshop.com Maps for the Shenandoah National Park and the book Trout Fishing in the Shenandoah National Park by Harry W. Murray Shenandoah National Park 3655 US HWY 211 East Luray VA 22835 Phone: 1-800-732-0911. (540) 999-3500, for emergencies only. www.nationalparkreservations.com General information on the Park and permits for back country camping.
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Low Carb Rainbow Yum-Simple, quick, easy T
he low-carb lifestyle has penetrated even the confines of the Southern Trout test kitchen. Ultra-easy Garlic Butter Trout in Foil that requires only 4 ingredients and it is ready in less than 25 minutes. Great for after a day of fishing! First, pre-heat the oven to 375ºF. Second, you’re going to cut two sheets of foil. It has to be big enough to wrap very well the trout fillet. Then, you need to cover the baking sheet with the aluminum foil and place the trout filet in the center. Fold up all 4 sides of the foil. Now it’s time to season the trout with all herbs you have on hand such as parsley, dill or oregano. And of course let’s not forget salt, black pepper, some garlic and red crushed pepper. For more flavour and to avoid the fish from becoming dry, melt some butter in the microwave and drizzle it over the trout until evenly coated. Fold the sides of the foil over the trout. You need to cover it completely. Bake for about 13 minutes. It will depend on the size of the trout fillet. Now, you just need to open the foil and broil for 3 minutes. Done! This meal is one of our favorites because it’s the easiest fish foil recipe one can make! And even though it requires only 4 ingredients, this garlic butter rainbow trut in foil is very flavorful. On top of all that, this recipe will be ready from start to finish in less than 30 mins. This is definitely the best meal when life is extremely busy. Super for camping! www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 73
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Sunburst Trout Farms Is located below the Shining Rock National Wilderness in the Pisgah National Forest. Since 1948 they have been growing rainbow trout, and the farm is now run by third generation brothers Wes and Ben Eason.
Sunburst has a long standing commitment to quality. Their fish are hormone and antibiotic free, and the feed is made especially for them containing no mammalian by-products. All trout are cut to order in small bathces, mostly by hand, thus ensuring all products are of the highest standard. In addition to Sunburst’s flagship fillets you can also find their award winning caviar, as well as trout jerky, hickory smoked trout, cold smoked trout, smoked trout dip, trout sausage, and even some non trout products, pimento goat cheese and smoked tomato jam. Be sure to stock up on their Original Jennings Jerky! It’s shelf stable and perfect for those long days fly fishing. To order go online to www.sunbursttrout.com
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All About A
s a new fly angler, don’t be intimidated by all the new terms. An indicator is merely a bobber designed specifically for fly fishing. While you can use indicators with dry flies to provide additional visibility on the drift and hint at the location of a small dry fly, their main purpose is to “indicate” a strike when nymph fishing. As expected in a sport as mature as flyfishing, indicators come in all shapes and sizes but boil down to a few basic styles: bubbles/balloons, foam, and yarn. Ignore the other types until you are comfortable using these.
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t Bobbers
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new fly guy Regardless of style, the indicator should: • • • • •
Be simple to put on, adjust and avoid kinking the tippet Be easy to cast given prevailing wind conditions Not spook fish with a giant splash upon landing Provide feedback on the quality of the drift and, of course, let you know when you have a strike
Regardless of which style you select, it must be matched to the size of your fly to keep the indicator on the surface. Large nymph = large indicator; small nymph + heavy split shot = large indicator. Depending on the angle of the sun, glare, water color and foam, select different colors to provide the required contrast. So, have a selection of different sizes and colors in your vest. Bubbles/Balloons: The best-known bubble indicator is the “thingamabobber” with the newer Airflo Airlock being a more modern implementation of the same concept. The fundamental difference between these two is how they attach to the line. The thingamabobber loops on with a jam post and may kink the line while the Airlock clamps the line with a nut for more gentle connection. Both are easy to use and come in many different sizes. As expected, the bubble style provides excellent buoyancy with the added benefit of a highly visible profile. However, larger sizes are difficult to cast in windy conditions because of their bulk. Speaking of bulk, the big ones land with a splat that can spook fish!
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new fly guy
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new fly guy Foam: This is a broad category of indicators ranging from small pinch-on
to larger styrofoam shapes with different connection schemes. The simple pinch-on foam indicator is best for light nymphs or to use as an additional indicator for a small dry fly. Given the low profile, they are easy to cast and are unlikely to spook fish with a tremendous splash. Also, you can “team up” several of these to provide greater buoyancy – even adding two six inches apart to provide a visual line pointing to the fly. Moving up from pinchon, you encounter different shapes and sizes of styrofoam with the football style being the most common. These use a section of
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new fly guy rubber tubing or a toothpick to attach to the line without kinking. Their primary advantage is they are easy to see and easy to connect. However, I recommend you avoid styles, like the football, that merely pass the tippet through the indicator on a horizontal plane and do not force the tippet into a 90° angle. I d e a l l y, the tippet should go straight down from the indicator and point directly at the nymph. My favorite is the Floatmaster – easy to use, easy to adjust and provides a perfect 90° angle.
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new fly guy Yarn: This is the most basic and oldest category. These fuzzy
implementations either tie directly to the tippet or attach with a loop connection just like the thingamabobber and can kink. Unlike the others, yarn indicators require floatant to work correctly. Even large yarn indicators land softly and will not spook fish but tend to become waterlogged and lose their floating capability over time. They do not perform well in the wind given the lack of an
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new fly guy
aerodynamic shape. However, one advantage is you can customize them streamside with a small pair of scissors or your nipper. Therefore, if all you have are huge yarn indicators and it is a windy day, trimming them solves the problem. Regardless of whether you use yarn as your nymph indicator, it is a good idea to have a small container of indicator yarn. It comes in handy as a substitute for a pinch-on as well as for those situations where any impact ripple will send fish running for cover.
Finally, remember the general guideline for nymphing and a length of tippet between the indicator and the fly equal to 1.5 times the depth. Remember, the current will grab the indicator and drag the fly; requiring extra split shot (maybe) and length to allow the fly to sink. Check out Steve’s YouTube channel at KayakHacksFishing for more fly fishing and other tips and tricks. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 87
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Make a loop of tippet and hold it between the thumb and forefinger. Insert a forceps into the loop
Your Chances of Far Exceed Those of Finding a Snake Whit Gibbons
I
f you’ve found a trout stream, you could find a snake. Could be a pit-viper, but odds are, and they are very good odds, that it will be a harmless watersnake, queen snake, or garter snake or some other variety that likes to hang around cool, clear streams. No matter what kind of snake it is, it wants to see no more of you than you do of it. What do you need to know so that you can focus on trout fishing without being concerned about snakes?
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e
Catching a Trout Northern Watersnake - Nerodia sipedonphoto by JD Willson
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Let’s start with the "where" part: land vs. water. Once in a stream, an angler has little to be concerned about as far as snakes go. The only venomous snake anywhere in the country that even comes close to being truly aquatic is the cottonmouth, aka water moccasin. Cottonmouths and trout don’t mix very well. Trout don’t live in warm, slow waters, and cottonmouths don’t like cold, fast water. You might find a cottonmouths draped over tree limbs in a cypress swamp or oxbow lake, but you wouldn’t be fishing for trout in those habitats. A cottonmouth is highly unlikely to be in a trout stream. Check their natural geographic range. Chances are cottonmouths don’t even live in the same county where your favorite trout stream is. But trout fishermen often see snakes in streams. So, what are they? Without question, the most common snake in any stream east of the Mississippi is the northern watersnake or its lookalike cousin the southern banded watersnake. These two non-venomous watersnakes are the most common snake examples of mistaken identity in the country. Many individuals have bright orange and brown cross-bands on the body, leading to their being confused with copperheads. Large female watersnakes often have dark coloration not dissimilar to that of cottonmouths. Lots of outdoor enthusiasts waste a lot of time each year worrying about and trying to eliminate these harmless watersnakes, which are many times more abundant and far more likely to be encountered than the two venomous species. Any southern stream or lake with trout in it has one or the other of these kinds of watersnakes swimming around in it. 92 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Ratsnake - Pantherophis obsoletus Ratsnakes are large, nonvenomous constrictors that are usually terrestrial but will sometimes bask on limbs above water. Finding one along a southern trout stream is a possibility, but they are completely harmless. – Photo by Whit Gibbons
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Gartersnake - Thamnophis sirtalis Yellow stripes down the body of gartersnakes are distinctive, making them distinguishable from any U.S. venomous snake. Gartersnake are sometimes common in grassy areas alongside mountain trout streams. Photo by Whit Gibbons
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Another aquatic snake that is a real treat to find is the queen snake. These slender, brown snakes with seven stripes down the body are most likely to be seen stretched out on a branch over a stream, and then drop into the clear water and disappear under the bank. A queen snake is a good sign of a healthy stream because if these snakes are present, so are crawfish, their primary prey. Gartersnakes and ribbon snakes occur throughout the country and are recognized by most people who spend much time outdoors. Bright yellow stripes down a dark green body make them distinctive snakes that need never be confused with any venomous species. Eastern gartersnakes and ribbon snakes are commonly associated with water, so either could possibly be seen swimming in or along the margins of a trout stream. Like watersnakes and queen snakes, neither should be of any concern other than an opportunity to view native wildlife.
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When to expect snakes around a trout stream does not take much of a wildlife background to figure out. Snakes become inactive during cool or cold weather and hibernate in the winter, so mountain streams are off the table much of the year. Warm summer nights and cool sunny days of spring and fall are favorite times for watersnakes. Look for northern watersnakes in late spring and summer on trout streams in the Appalachians, which are well out of the range of cottonmouths. If you see a big snake dive into the water, don’t worry. It’s almost certainly a harmless watersnake. Trout fishing is a sport with few hazards to worry about, and snakebite should be toward the end of the list. As already noted above, once you are in the water, don’t give snakes a second thought beyond enjoying seeing one. The vast majority will be watersnakes, and they will be trying to get out of your way. Snakebites inflicted on trout fishermen are exceedingly rare, probably not reaching double digits over the last century. Those that have occurred have probably been on the trail to or from the stream. Timber rattlesnakes and copperheads encountered on land are the culprits but with proper medical treatment, a serious bite is rare. 96 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
Copperhead - Agkistrodon contortrix More people in the United States are bitten annually by copperheads than by any other venomous snake, yet fatal bites are almost unheard of. A copperhead would almost never be in a trout stream. - Photo by Whit Gibbons
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The following “Five Steps to Snakebite” put the trout fisherman’s probabilities into perspective. First, the chances of encountering a snake on any outdoor excursion are very low. Secondly, harmless snakes outnumber venomous ones in most regions at ratios of better than 6 to 1. Third, even venomous snakes want no part of people and give a defensive bite only as a last resort. A venomous snake’s first choice is to escape down a hole. Number four, based on a study of more than 1,000 U.S. venomous snakebites, is that almost two-thirds would not be life-threatening even without professional medical attention. Finally, modern medical facilities with access to advice from nationwide Poison Control Centers can deal successfully with snakebite. Personal first aid in the form of cutting, tourniquets, freezing or using a stun gun on the bite are all strongly discouraged by most medical doctors. Get the victim to a hospital and your chances of recovery are very high. Snakebite is a highly improbable event. Enjoy your trout fishing adventures by letting snakes be among the least of your worries of what you may meet in the stream or on the trail leading to it. Whit Gibbons is Professor Emeritus of Ecology, University of Georgia, and author of a dozen books on snakes and other reptiles. His most recent book is Snakes of the Eastern United States. Whit is a member of the Southeastern Outdoor Press Association. Southern Banded Watersnake - Nerodia fasciata The most common large snake seen in any southern trout stream is the northern watersnake or the southern banded watersnake. Although similar to each other in appearance and behavior, these two harmless watersnakes are often mistaken for venomous copperheads or cottonmouths, neither of which is likely to be in a trout stream. Photo by JD Willson www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 99
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black wing olive chronicles
The Stud! M ost of my entries are of mirth regarding the bipod, Daddyboy and his moronic antics and miscues. And rightly so, as it would be nothing for me to report on him daily, much less bimonthly as STM publishing schedule calls for. Occasionally though, something of a rather personal level must be shared with you. It all began innocently; a girl dog and a boy. If you are under 24 old, this is not recommended for reading. (On the other hand, read on…) In mid-June, the tribe loaded in three vehicles and headed south for Valhalla, Florida. A pleasant enough community, it is noteworthy for two things. One it is the site of Maw Barker and the G-men in the 1930s when despite being armed with Thompson machine guns and lots of ammo, Maw and her boys failed to defend the old two-story hotel where they were staying. The other noteworthy tidbit is that Daddy boys sister Carol runs a non-profit bed and breakfast where extended family members (up to fourth cousins, twice removed) frequent. She has a heart as big as the Montana sky and a love for canines, which explains why I was invited.
I was really looking forward to a little R&R, but what a treat it was. When we entered the domicile…let’s see, how can this old lady say this without sound downright like some sort of tramp, but there he was, the Adonis of the canine world. You name it, this stud muffin had it. There was a tall dark foreigner named Finnigan, My goodness, just remembering him takes my breath away. He’s French, but not like this dime a dozen poodles.
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black wing olive chronicles No sir, he is a Burerpicard breed, bred for herding and built for rough and tumble action. Being a purebred Burerpicard, Finnigan’s looks are impossible to describe if you are limited to the words found in the Oxford dictionary. Crude ole Daddyboy, who by the way did not like him or anything else from France, said of Finnigan, that the mutt “reminded him of a wirehaired terrier that had been whelping by a Yukon moose”. My only point of agreement was that a moose has boney antlers. Finnigan did not sport anything suggestive of horned headgear, but he certainly makes this little Anniston, Alabama street stray feel more than just a little horny (blush, blush). He rippled with enthusiasm that an older pooch like me found exhilarating beyond my ability to contain myself when I was around this stud muffin. Please understand that Finnigan is only thirteen months old, which means
that even in dog years made my lustful longings for him something akin to cradle robbing (also known as “kennel snatching”), but I do not care nor seek your approval. All I want to do was run my front paws through the curly locks of his brows and to nuzzle his firm belly. You see when it comes to matters involving intimacy, canines are not shackled with age or legal inconveniences like statutes. No, there are no real boundaries placed on age. Despite being a 14 years old older pup who has not lost her charm or figure, I might also add that I am a long way from being dead. To the thought of such an entanglement with this stud muffin, I must confess thinking, “Oh yes, Finnigan begin again…” As with all interlude of with good fortune and pleasure, this one was cut short with the return of Finnigan’s human keeper who had been on a cruise that did not allow dogs. One minute he was there making my thighs quiver, and then just as quickly, Finnigan was whisked away from us and he was gone. During our brief interlude, I learned that Finnigan is destined to become an international “show dog”. Recently I heard through the grapevine that Finnigan showed in Orlando where “stud muffin” not only won best in his breed (upset the eightyear champion) but also took Best in Show. “Oh yes, Finnigan begin again!!”
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Others have streams,
we have a trail.
Jackson County is home of the Western North Carolina Fly Fishing Trail, which maps out 15 prime spots to catch brown, rainbow and brook trout in the crystal-clear streams of the Great Smoky Mountains. With more than 4,600 miles of wide-open rivers and secluded mountain streams, we have the state’s longest contiguous stretch of Mountain Heritage Trout Waters.
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Genuine Smoky Mountain Trout Flies 106 l August 2018 l Southern Trout l www.SouthernTrout.com
T
here’s no way everyone will agree on my choices, and admittedly they were toughies. But, here they are my personal choices for the five top purely southern trout flies. They are the Tellico Nymph, Adam Variant, Thunderhead, Yallarhammar and the Sheep Fly. The origins of each of these patterns are as southern has a George Wallace for President bumper sticker, and with a couple of exceptions, their roots are fairly well known. Fortunately, even if I am completely wrong, the current interest in researching such matters has never been more keen that it is today. This is great as our southern fly fishing heritage deserves research and preservation. Ole Jim Casada and I have been carrying the ball for long enough. There’s still much to be learned and in some cases, unlearned. Also, the list could easily include dozens of other patterns, but these are the five I settled up. Tellico Nymph
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Tellico Nymph
If your fly box doesn't contain a Tellico Nymph, I will give you a couple. That's an easy offer for me to make because if you're reading this, you probably have a supply of these flies stuck in various pockets of your fishing vest. Almost everyone loves and uses the Tellico Nymph. There is a general consensus that the pattern originated along the Tellico River in East Tennessee, and that these flies catch trout year-round. Other than that though, no one seems to agree about who tied the first Tellico Nymph, when it was created, or what it was intended to mimic.
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I don't have the answers, although I have researched the matter, as did my old friend Eddy George, a Louisville, TN, native who is best remembered for his Cotton Top Nymph, a variation of the Tellico Nymph. George and I agreed that Ray Bergman was incorrect regarding the origins of the fly; he noted in the second edition of his book, Trout, that he credits its development to a Rev. Edwin T. Dalstrom of Tennessee. However, according to one source in North Carolina, the Tellico Nymph is an old pattern that was developed around 1927 by a priest along the Tellico River. Another source says that the Tellico Nymph was tied to imitate a kernel of corn. Does it matter?
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Sheep Fly
The Sheep Fly was a favorite of Newland Saunders of Caldwell County, North Carolina who recently passed away. According to Bill Everhardt, Newland's mentor and fishing partner, several decades ago during an autumn fishing trip, Newland was being pestered by a fearless hornet. Swatting at the hornet, Newland dropped his fly hornet freeing one of his Sheep Flies stored there n the process. Diving to the ground, the hornet snatched up Newland's Sheep Fly and flew off with it to its nest.
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The Sheep Fly is a fantastic imitation of the biting, bloodthirsty deerflies of summer and fall. Sometimes called small horse flies, deerflies are particularly prevalent along densely wooded streams in these mountains. The Sheep Fly has a still-grown in reputation as a big trout taker and was heralded by Cap Weise of Lenior, NC, who espoused the virtues of the pattern. Several sources debate the exact origin of the fly, and Lefty Kreh told me discovered it first here in the 1960s.
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Thunderhead
A handful of patterns that originated in and around the Great Smoky Mountains have garnered national attention; the Thunderhead is among them. Universally attributed to Fred Hall, the Thunderhead said to be the result of Hall's admiration for the Adams and learning to apply Wulff-style kip-tail wings. His experimentation resulted in a buoyant, tough-as-nails pattern even the half-blind such as me can see as it courses the currents of the park. Properly classified as an attractor-style pattern, the ThunÂderhead's features mimic those of a mayfly dun, matching with some accuracy everything from big quills to BWOs. I have found the pattern effective even when I rout are keen on stoneflies and caddisflies. As with most fly-fishing success on these streams, presentation nearly always supersedes the need for precise imitation.
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Though many assume the pattern originated in the Southern Appalachians, according to some experts, this fly actually had its beginnings out West. In the l 940s Jesse Jamerson of Lenoir City, Tennessee reportedly brought this pattern back from a trip to Wyoming. Jesse had his flies tied by Fred Hall in Bryson City, NC, and just like that, word spread and the Thunderhead became popular in the Smoky Mountains.
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Adam’s Variant
The oldest writing on fly fishing in the Great Smoky Mountain is adrift with fly recommendations like the Wickham and Palmer. None are cited more often than the Adams, which even today is regarded by many has their go-to fly pattern. This is another pattern of Bryson City origins, credited to Joe Hall, However, according to Jim Casada who spent much of his salad days in that mountain hamlet, the pattern was probably more the product of Hall’s wife. Elaine. Generally regarded as the superior tier of this two, Adams Variant is high riding patterns that is deadly on the trout in these waters.
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Yallarhammar
I was introduced to the Yallarhamma by Kirk Jenkins, a renowned fly tier from Newport, Tennessee. I bought a lot of Yallarhammar and Crow Forkytails from him as long as he would tie them. In those days possession of Yellowhammer Flicker wing feathers was not a serious offense as it can be today. Jenkins had a deal with the local electricians who often found these birds dead in power transformers. They would bring the corpses to Jenkins in exchange for a few flies. No harm done, eh?
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Regarding the origins of the Yallarhammar, good luck sorting that out. It's not mentioned in literature before 1945, but doubtless, it long predated written mention. One school of thought is that it was developed by the Cherokee. I personally discredit that for a variety of reasons. Fly fishing was surprisingly well developed by the 1900s thanks to rich Yankees frequently these waters like the Fords, Firestones, and Vanderbilt. They had all of the latest tackle and gave it freely to locales. My guess is someone made the connection to their soft hackle flies and locally available material. The yellow wing plums of these birds worked perfectly. We’ll never know who it might have been. And a lot of young fly fishermen will never make their quaintness to the Yallarhammar. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 117
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H
ere is the southern heartland of America, many of us tend to view the sport somewhat provincially. Most know fly fishing has root in England, and even know that Hardy has British origins. However, unbeknownst to most southern fly fishermen is the voracious appetent for the sport found throughout Europe, and especially in the far northern states of Norway, Sweden, and Finland. Loop Tackle Design is a brand that made such a deep impression on the North American market that many are not even aware it is a Swedish based manufacturers.
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Evotec CAST Fly Rod Review Located in Ă…kersberga, a small town near Stockholm, Swede, they have been in business since 1978 when fly-fishing throughout Scandinavia was gaining popularity. Loop Tackle Design was formed by Christer SjĂśberg and Tony Karpestam, two young enthusiastic anglers with the dream of making a living from the sport. They quickly identified that much of the flyfishing tackle available at that time was seriously lacking and could be vastly improved upon for the diverse Scandinavian river conditions. From the very beginning, they realized that fly fishing was a way of life.
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By introducing the Evotec CAST fly rods, Loop put forth three separate blank actions in one-rod series. The essence of CAST (Colour, Action, Sequence, Tempo) is flexibility in color-coded rod actions for any given fly fishing environment. The series maximizes the benefits of the full to mid curve actions favored in today’s fly fishing but in three distinct flex tempos. Our field test rod was a four-piece, 9—foot 5 weight fast action rods. Fast action has long been the very cornerstone of Loop’s rod design, a classic action that allows for
continuous power application through the casting stroke, achieving both optimum fly presentation and fish-fighting ability. o complement not only the angler’s casting style but also their chosen discipline of fly fishing. Presented in a stunning pearlized grey finish, are designed for freshwater species and allow the angler to fish all day with maximum performance and minimal fatigue. The rod in this length and weight is a howitzer. If you’re a caster that double hauls all the time regardless of range, fishes large flies or finds themselves in long range situations when casting, I would strongly recommend the fast action Evotech.
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It’s worth noting too though, this rod doesn’t fail at short range. It does require a stronger stroke to help feel the true torque or flex on the blank It is very highly recommended for use on the South’ top water rivers like the Chattahoochee in Georgia or the White River in Arkansas.
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Made with the Cross Weave technology, the Evotec series have a sweet, precise and balanced action, combined with an extra durability. Minimal vibrations and the possibility to change tempo with ease is the fruit of our “Perfect Curve” philosophy. With a handle in the epoxy-cork mix, you also get the best grip available. Either your rod can have the revolutionary X-Grip handles to further increase stability and fine-tune the fishing experience, or a traditional round handle. (Available with optional hexagonal X-Grip or traditional round handle in cork-mix.) The Evotec is built with Cross Weave technology for maximum durability and blank in the aesthetic glossy finish. The triangular reel-seat features a permanent lock – easier to put the reel in place. It is available with optional hexagonal X-Grip and traditional round handle in cork-mix, and ceramic stripping guides and durable chrome snake-guides with double coating. Other features include rod model inscription and dot mark on ferrules for correct fit on rod sections, and the Evotec comes in a cloth bag and pentagon shaped Cordura tube.
BATTLE OF GAT FLY FISHING T T
Saturday, September 22 Not all wildlife liv
he original “Battle of Burg Hill� during the Civil War occurred on December 10, 1863, near Alum Cave in the Great Smoky Mountains. This was the site of a Confederate outpost determined to guard the valuable saltpeter being mined to make the badly needed gunpowder for the rebel army. Even though Gatlinburg was a pro-union town Tennessee was the 11th state to secede from the Union as the North Carolina Confederate regiment led by Colonel
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TLINBURG 2018 TOURNAMENT
2, 2018 - Gatlinburg, TN ves in the woods!
Thomas marched over the mountain and secured Alum Cave to start mining the saltpeter. When two hundred Union soldiers descended on the post it may have been one of the of the shortest battles of the war taking only about an hour and no causalities before the Confederate army decided to beat it out of town and come back in a hundred years or so to eat funnel cakes and see Dollywood with the family. www.SouthernTrout.com www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern l Southern Trout l Trout September l July 2018 l 127
However, that all changes on Saturday, September 22, 2018, as an army of anglers descend once again on downtown Gatlinburg TN to compete in the “Battle of Gatlinburg 2018” fly fishing tournament. The “One Fly Royale” presented by the Great Smoky Mountain Trout Unlimited chapter along with sponsor Southern Trout magazine brings this one of a kind outdoor event for the second year to Gatlinburg TN. The contest pits anglers in a fast-paced three-hour tournament where catching and releasing trout is only a part of the event. The ability to accomplish this while using only the one fly you started with ups the ante and truly adds to streamside pressure as you compete in the heart of downtown Gatlinburg.
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The stakes are high and the reward is great for those who accept the challenge, where bragging rights are only part of the “One Fly Royale” for the competitors. Last year over $3,000 in cash and fishing gear was awarded to the winners in a race to the top where only six inches of trout separated the 1st and 2nd place finishers. The anglers ranged from seasoned veterans to tournament first-timers drawn from four states all out to prove that they were truly the king of the mountain. This year is shaping up to be even bigger as all of last year’s sponsors return in addition to new ones being added to the list. There is no other tournament like the “Battle of Gatlinburg 2018” as the crowd has a ringside seat from the sidewalks of Gatlinburg as the anglers compete in the waters below right in the center of town. Make plans now to attend Saturday, September 22, 2018, as a competitor or spectator as we welcome the coming of fall in the Great Smoky Mountains. Bring the family and enjoy all Gatlinburg TN has to offer in addition to the “Battle of Gatlinburg 2018”. Please visit our website at for more information on where to register and the latest news & information. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 129
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60 | Southern Trout | February 2013 | www.southerntrout.com
I
am not much on keeping track of such things, but I thought it might be fun to recount how writing my first book grew into a lifelong career. I’m warning you now, the following is about me and ultimately me. So, if that is not of interest to you, you may prefer to read the drivel written by Olive, the dog that lives here. Forty years ago I was wrapping up my first book, Trout Fishing Guide to the Smokies. Since the early 70s, writing this book consumed my life. At the time it felt as though I was inventing the wheel as resources for fishing in the Smokies were scattered like monkey droppings. As the project was nearing conclusion, at home we were in the countdown as to when our dining room would soon be back to normal, or so we thought at the time. In reality, the book turned out to be a calling card that still casts a shadow on me. So many people that I’ve spoken to over years have heard so many of these stories about the book and snippets of tales of my behavior that I hesitate to recount them one more time. But alas, vanity overcame any hesitation on my part. Many mistakes and miscues dot the trail, but all in all, it has been a fun ride that I was blessed to enjoy.
Fourty Ye
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ears of a Fun Ride Don Kirk
Charley Dickey
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Beginning in the 1960s I had the trout fishing bug. Every spare moment was spent fishing, which when you figure in that I had a fulltime job and three kids, that’s a lot of compromises. How my first wife hung in there for 25 years says a lot, as she loved trout fishing and hunting as much as I did. However, ultimately, she was a lot less pleased with my other bad habits that finally caused her to escape the early Kirk compound. Everyone has a “go to” fishing pal, and mine in those days was Vic Stewart of Morristown, TN. Heaven only knows how many remote waters in Tennessee, North Carolina, and Georgia we fished in those days, but it was a bunch. We frequented the Smokies, and while there we also often stopped at the Sugarlands, for no apparent reason it seems other than poking fun at the visiting Yankees. While there I routinely asked if there were any books available on fishing park waters. The answer was always the same, until one day the nice old lady working there said to me, “Son if you want such a book, you’ll have to write it yourself.” I took her advice.
Vic and I fished in something of an information vacuum. Neither of our dads fished for trout much, and living in little Morristown, Tennessee, we knew few other people who fished for trout. We were a lot more interested in going fishing that acquiring trout fishing buddies. In those days the few outdoor magazines in existence rarely had stories on local trout fishing. It was the beginning the era of the bass fad and bass boats and tackle.
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Undaunted, I decided to try writing such a book, which was remarkable as my 7th grade English teacher later told me that she was unaware I could even read. I made contact with Alan Kelley, then the head of fisheries in the park, and Price Wilkerson head of cold water fisheries in East Tennessee who were both excited by the project. At considerable expense, I acquired USGS Topo Graphic maps of the national park and a huge electric typewriter. I was already dabbling in wedding photography, so I was fairly well equipped
including a darkroom. From there, I was off to the races. I’ve heard about a fellow in North Carolina who has documented hundreds of streams he has fished in that state. Over the years I have frequently been asked if I have fished all of the streams listed in the book. Early in its publication, I said, “Yes.” Later, however, I quit making this ridiculous claim. Even back then I fished for fun and fudged a little. After all, I am a fisherman. This is a good place in the book to mention Rabbit Creek and apologize to the book’s advice on it to Roger Lowe--glad you made it back safely. In the meantime, I began calling myself an outdoor writer. In those days every town had a couple them, and at 22 years old I was the outdoor writer in Morristown who made a weekly appearance in a column in the Citizen Tribune “Outdoors Between the Lakes.” The publisher of the paper never complained about my frequent vendettas until I did a mock obituary for a dozen otters being killed. He drew the line there, but in seventeen years of writing the column and carrying out war with the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency (TWRA) and the National Park Service (NPS), he mostly left me alone.
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As it turned out, despite its small size, little Morristown was a hotbed of outdoor writing activity dating back to when Davy Crockett lived there. Writing legends included the likes of H. Lea Lawrence, Chum Dickey, and his brother Dave. Two generations ahead of me at the time, none of them lived there, but a couple of times a year they all got together at Dusty Hauk’s place to play cards. A retired writer as well, Dusty took me under this wings. When the gangs gathered at Dusty’s place to play Hearts, I was invited. These four fellows greatly influenced me. In the 1970s these men owned the big three (Outdoor Life, Field & Stream and Sports Afield). They taught me the ropes, for which I remain grateful. One April, Dusty Houk got me invited to the weeklong annual Fontana Village Resort writers trip. There I met Soc Clay and Jim McGuire. Soc and I became and remain close friends. Jim McGuire owned a legitimate publishing company, and when he heard about my book project, he wanted to publish my Smokie’s book. It was a mistake, but two years later his partner, Cass Denton, finally delivered a couple of cases of books. It was the last time I heard from him or had contact with McGuire. I was learning. Then a couple of years later while at Fontana Village Resort (there’s a pattern here…), I met William Nealy and Holly Wallace who had just founded Menasha Ridge Press as a vehicle to publish paddling books.
William Nealy and Holly were (how shall I say this) free spirits. The meetings were a blur, but upon arriving home, I had a new book contract. Holly and William are dead now (as are most of the people in this story). Menasha Ridge published the book, and then in 1995 revised it to do the fly fishing version. The books were pretty hot in the day when there was no competition. Later, Lea Lawrence
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published a fly fishing book on the Smokes as did Ian Rutter and Jim Casada. Now there’s a slew of books out there and no one is making any money. I later found out that Chum had written a trout fishing book for Oxmore Press (then part of the Progressive Farmer that is now best known as its lead title Southern Living.) I’d write the first book again in a New York minute. So many people
still have their copies which to me, is truly incredible and humbling. I quit my steady job in 1982 to write full time. The hunting market was where the money was then (as it is now), plus the great trips. For next 6 or 8 years, I traveled to the Yukon to hunt for mountain goat and caribou, to Africa for leopard and kudu, to the Rockies, and all over eastern Canada from James Bay to Newfoundland. Rarely would I make a trip where there was not salmon, trout, pike, grayling or char. I even had a great time fly fishing for trout in South Africa. While I may have been on assignment to kill another caribou, fishing was always on my mind. It predated videos and writers and adventure copy were in high demand. I came to Birmingham in the 1990s to start a group of magazines for Vulcan, the state’s second-biggest publisher whose forte had been computer and industry magazines. My only experience in the business was that of a writer and consultant. In half a dozen years we were printing almost two dozen titles that included Whitetail Journal and Varmint Master. It was a great, lucrative ride until Tennessee won the national title in 1998, and I wore oranges ties to work every day. Thereafter, I hooked up with a wild man, Brock Ray, to co-host outdoor television shows. I did the fishing segments and he did the hunting, each of us filming for the other. Great fun, especially the Bassin Mexico that ended five years later when the local marijuana growers tired of robbing us on the water and started shooting at us.
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After that, we did a five-year run on Sirius/XM satellite network called the Interstate Sportsman along with creating digital magazines. At the time I was divorced and sowing as many wild oats (and few rolls of beans and corn as well) as I could. Later, I met my current wife and tore the blanket with Brock to return to a modestly simple life. A short time thereafter, we launched Southern Trout Magazine. Just prior to that, I wrote a couple of more fishing books. Trust me, selling advertising is a lot easier than selling books. I got a dozen or so copies of my books and have not offered them nor anything else for sale in four years. The book publishers are upset with me (really), but there are only 24 hours in a day. Looking back on the first two guidebooks though is a different matter. The picture on the back of the first one with the white cover of me holding a 14-inch brook trout was taken by Sam Venable. At the time he was the outdoor editor of the Knoxville News Sentinel. I served as outdoor editor of the now-defunct Knoxville Journal. The News Sentinel occupied the first five floors of the building, and we had a similar number above them. We had a good relationship; he was by far the more talented of us. I told Venable that during my research I had discovered that Meigs Creek which was downstream from the Sinks on Little River had been closed to all fishing to conduct a brook trout study. When the NPS redid its regulations after the brook trout closure, they accidentally forget about Meigs Creek. Vic and I check it out and found it was alive with 12- to 16inch brook trout that the NPS had planted with New England stock. In 1975 when the NPS stupidly closed hundreds of miles brook streams for a variety of halfass reasons. When they reprinted the park fishing regulations, they failed to note that Meigs Creek was by omission “open to catch and release.” Vic and I went
there often, catching the same brook trout out of the same holes. I mention it to Venable, who could not believe it. He promised not to reveal its location if we went there. The picture shows me with a decent brookie caught that day that was a few inches shorter than most we took. Again, we caught the same fish when we went downstream on little Meigs Creek, and then again coming back up. That’s just one of many pleasant memories surrounding the first books, like Ernst Ramsey’s cockfighting trout flies, or sitting with 100 years old Walter Cole on his front porch has he told me about fishing Elkmont before the loggers arrived at the turn of the century. They’re gone, as are Marc Sudheimer, George Haas, Eddie George, Joe Manley, H. Lea Lawrence. Chum Dickey and Charley Elliot to name a few. Only Marc was my age. I was deer filming in North Dakota when word of his death reached me.
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Over the years I developed a reputation for being outspoken and unable to walk away from a confrontation. My battles with the NPS over brook trout, otters, and red wolves, and the fact that I cost the TWRA $13,000,000 million in license fee increases garnered me friends and foes. Much more mellow now, I sometimes think about the many battles and remarkably, I’d do it again. Just because the opposing argument is backed by a government agency does not mean you are wrong in questioning it. Today the fun ride centers around keeping our magazines afloat. I’m somewhat hamstrung by chronic health issues, but blessed with the will and drive to move forward telling the story of trout fishing in the South---a very, very supportive family. Most people are hot or cold about me. They like or dislike, with little middle ground. I am proud of my enemies and prouder of my friends.
Early in the Manasha Ridge Publishing era. www.SouthernTrout.com l Southern Trout l September 2018 l 141
Please be a p
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part...
Expansion of our Fly Fishing Museum of Southern Appalaciansand needs a helping hand from the fans of Southern Trout. Please do your part by contributing $10 to $50 on their gofundme page. Be it an individual or TU or FFF Chapter, pledge what you can to the Museum . Lets save what we can of our great fly fishing history.
CLICK HERE TO HELP
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A Museum for the Southern Fly Fisherman
The Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians — originally
located in Cherokee, NC — has a new home in neighboring Bryson City where it shares a building with the Bryson City / Swain County Chamber of Commerce. It’s centrally located on the town square across the street from the visitor center. The Museum is open Monday thru Saturday from 9 am to 6 pm and admission is free.
The scope of the museum covers an
area with more than 14,700 miles of accessible trout streams — the nine Southern Appalachian States of North Carolina, South Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama; the Qualla Boundary, home of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians; as well as the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Bryson City, NC
PHOTO BY JIM HEAFNER
Through exhibits and videos you’ll
learn about legendary “Stream Blazers,” the evolution of rods and reels, basic knots, fly-tying, types of gear, types of gamefish, regional fishing waters, and the history of fly fishing in the Southeast. Whether you are a long-time fly fisherman, or have only attempted or never tried fly fishing, you will find something to enjoy and to learn from in the museum.
FLY FISHING MUSEUM
OF THE SOUTHERN APPALACHIANS
Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians 210 Main Street Bryson City, NC 28713 800-867-9241
FlyFishingMuseum.org