Southern Saltwater
Fly Fishing Magazine Edition 10 Spring 2019
Close Look: Mangrove Cay
www.southernsaltwaterflyfishing.com
From the Editor From the Editor Editor Jimmy Jacobs lthough February was pretty jimmyjacobs@mindspring.com cold, windy and nasty along much of the coastline on which Publisher we focus, it was not a bad month Don Kirk for us here at SSFF. First of all, don@southerntrout.com we noted that our following is right on the cusp of passing the Associate Publisher mark of having 50,000 subscrib Claude Preston, III ers. Additionally, we got to meet a claude@southerntrout.com lot of those folks at the Atlanta Fly Fishing Show the first weekend of the month, as they dropped by Managing Editor the booth we shared with our sis Leah Kirk ter publication Southern Trout. As leah@southerntrout.com part of that event, we held a free drawing for those that took the Field Editor time to sign up for it. As the show Polly Dean ended, Bill Beckwith of Fayettepollydean22@gmail.com ville, Georgia had his name drawn and won a 5-weight, Reaper=X fly rod donated by the good folks at Contributors Mystic Outdoors in Denver, Colorado. Frank Churchill Something else that took Polly Dean place at the show, of which we Terry Gibson are quite proud, is the founder Capt. Debbie Hanson and publisher of SSFF Don Kirk Capt. Sonny Schindler was inducted into the Legends of the Fly Hall of Fame as part of their class of 2019. With his induction, Don joined an impressive Southern Saltwater Fly Fishing is a publication of Southern array of greats of fly fishing in the Unlimited, LLC. It is produced in conjunction with Southern southern climes, such as Dave Trout Magazine and Southerntrout.com. Copyright 2019 Whitlock, Jim Casada, Charlie ElSouthern Unlimited, LLC All rights reserved.
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liott, Mark Cathey, Ernest Peckinbaugh, Soc Clay, J. Wayne Fears and Harry Middleton. Congratulations to Don on a well-deserved honor. But, let’s turn to saltwater fishing. In this edition of SSFF, our Close Look section goes offshore to explore Andros Island in the Bahamas. Despite its singular name, Andros actually is composed of three isles – North Andros, Mangrove Cay and South Andros. Field Editor Polly Dean has us tag along as she goes looking for the bonefish that inhabit the flats around those islands.
In this issue we continue to introduce some new voices to you as well. Up on the North Carolina coast, Capt. Gordon Churchill explores the options for taking Spanish mackerel on the long rod. We also have a couple of new faces down in Florida. Terry Gibson introduces us to targeting tripletail along the southeast coast, while over on the southwest shore of the peninsula, Capt. Debbie Hanson covers the action for sheepshead on the fly. Rounding out the coverage, Capt. Sonny Schindler heads out to the Mis-
JOURNEYS OF SGI St. George Island, Florida
SSFF Publisher Don Kirk (center) with the rest of the Class of 2019 at the Legends of the Fly Hall of Fame induction ceremony.
sissippi barrier islands in search of over-sized seatrout and I contribute some musings about chasing the ghost of Zane Grey and tangling with barracuda in the Florida Keys. Hope you enjoy this edition, and, as always, let us hear from you. Jimmy Jacobs Editor
40 E 3rd Street, St. George Island (850)927-3259 www.sgislandjourneys.com info@sgislandjourneys.com
This Issue Editor's Letter
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Solarez 6
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Catching Convicts with the 8 Warden - Winter Sheapshead on the Fly in Southeast Florida Spanish Mackerel at Cape Lookout
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Zone in on Tripletail
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CLOSE LOOK 39 Mangrove Cay The Bones of Mangrove Cay 40 Swain's Cay Resort
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Exploring Mangrove Cay More Than Just Fishing
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Bonefide Bonefish and Fly Shop
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Passing of a Legend "Crazy" Charlie Smith
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Shine Green An Emerging Legend
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Cat Island Bruiser Trout Seatrout on the Mississippi Coast
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In Zane Grey's Footsteps
110
Shine's Conch Shack Mangrove Cay Bahamas
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On September 30, 2018, Solarez, in partnership with Southern Trout and Southern Saltwater Fly Fishing Magazines, Dr. Slick Fly Tying Tools and FlyTyer Magazine launched The Solarez UV Revolution World Tour. Rock Concerts? NO. Instead, an awareness program exploring all of the different types of flies that can be tied with Solarez UV Resins. So, just what is this Solarez UV Revolution World Tour? It is a contest and social media tour directed at the fly tying and fly fishing world that will generate awareness and the unique application value of using Solarez in constructing flies. This program is running from September 30, 2018, through April 1, 2019, and will create an opportunity for fly ters from all over the world to showcase their fly tying abilities. REQUIREMENTS: Tyers will be required to post a photo of their fly with an accompanying Solarez UV Product and pattern ingredients for the fly on one of the four Solarez Facebook pages: North America, Europe, Australia or New Zealand. Entrants should select the Facebook page that geographically represents them. Posts that do not include the Solarez product with fly and pattern will be deleted immediately. Only those posts meeting the requirements will remain.
So, what happens next?
The top 5 contributors with the most Facebook ‘likes’ at the end of each month will receive a t-shirt and an additional 5 t-shirts will be awarded via a random drawing from those who posted likes. Drawings will be held on last day 6 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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SOLA
UV Rev World Tou
AREZ
volution ur Contest
of each month and winners will be announced during the first week of the following month. (All t-shirts will be size XL to manage inventory) On October 1, the first drawing wasfrom individuals who “likeed” the Solarez Page from September 19 - September 30. This contest will be announced “softly” via Solarez Facebook pages, shares, Pro Team Members, and partner posts. For the final drawing in April, we will start the whole process over again. October will set the stage for November, December, January, February, and the last on in March, for a total of 7 months in each geographical area. TWO (2) GRAND PRIZES, will be randomly drawn from tyers who have submitted flies for the World Tour and all those who have provided likes. Votes will only be collected for flies posted on Solarez Facebook pages. Contributor flies will be shared with Partner Facebook pages. Partners will also be encouraged to offer monthly prizes from random drawings from monthly ‘likers’ of their own individual Facebook pages. Winners will be shared/posted on all Solarez Facebook pages. Southern Trout and Southern Saltwater Fly Fishing magazines will be featuring some Pro Team and consumer flies in each issue over the next 6 months. Of course, they will be respective of either trout or saltwater patterns. Dr. Slick will provide fly-tying tools monthly. Flytyer Magazine will be supporting this tour program by highlighting flies. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Catching Convicts with the Warden Winter Sheepshead on the Fly in Southwest Florida
By Captain Debbie Hanson
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s a gentle morning breeze tousled the collar of my peach button-down shirt, the distinct aroma of shellfish escorted us in the direction of our destination. My guide, Captain Codty Pierce, seemed to be instinctually tuned into the crackling and snapping sounds that emanated from the Estero Bay oyster bar that sat about 10feet dead ahead of us.
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These sounds have evolved into a special sort of fly fishing melody to Pierce, a tune that can often be equated with chunky sheepshead during the months between November and March. While it's true that sheepshead can be found yearround in Southwest Florida, this species size and appetite tends to increase as it transitions into spawning mode following the arrival of cooler water temperatures. Tides and Timely Homework Most anglers realize the significance of combing the flats at the very start of incoming tide, but few truly monitor the subtle nuances of these backcountry ecosystems during low water periods. "While you do have to practice caution with regard to the areas you venture into at low tide, it's also during these periods that you can obtain a much better grasp of the sheepshead's preferred habitat," Pierce comments. "You also have the opportunity to observe fish tailing off of the oyster bars. Staying perceptive and patient are two of the keys to success with sheepshead.� Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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There may be naysayers who are convinced that these cool-weather convicts are next to impossible to land on fly, but Capt. Pierce is proof that with the right knowledge and technique, it can happen. Pierce has proven his strategies by personally landing over 50 sheepshead on fly during a two-month period between November and December, with his average size fish in the 3- to 4-pound range. Where to Look for Sheepshead In places like Estero Bay, Pierce says your best chance at landing a sizeable sheepshead on fly is by focusing on the oyster bars. "As the tide rises and water levels come up to the top of the oyster bars, they can be a bit easier to catch versus when they are tailing during low water periods," Pierce says. "When the water is low, they can sense even the most subtle disruption. With moving high water they can be easier to approach. Keep in mind that sheepshead will associate with areas that offer two primary things - food and safety." This advice was reinforced as we quietly trolling-motored up toward the long, narrow oyster bar that was adjacent to a drop off. My trusty guide instantly spotted the silvery flashes produced by about eight to 10 fish. They appeared to be in the 3- to 6-pound range, and were cleverly turning themselves sideways to pry small fiddler crabs out of the oysters. Planning for Success Because the winter waters were clear and we were fishing shallow, Pierce recommended a 12-foot tapered leader with 15-pound tippet. Even a rod tip raised too quickly has the potential to spook a school in seconds. "I love this type of fishing because it's so visual, it's some of the most fun you can have sight fishing," he says in a low voice with a grin. "Accurate casts are crucial in clear water though, an improper placement of your fly can send them running.� I quickly realized that following his direction and paying close attention would be paramount to landing our quarry in this situation. Understanding that sheepshead are capable of strong downward dives, Pierce had me effectively armed with a 9-foot, 7-weight fly rod. Finding oyster bars is a key to getting your crab fly in front of some of the convict fish. Photos by Capt. Debbie Hanson. 10 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Capt. Pierce granting a sheepshead a “parole.” Photo by Capt. Debbie Hanson.
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They are also "expert escape artists" to use his precise terminology. "Staying connected to your line and having the patience to wait until you know the fish has taken your fly, these are two of most important lessons to learn," he advises. When targeting convicts over the oyster bars in Estero Bay, Pierce uses Drew Chicone's Contraband Crab fly pattern on a No.4 hook to effectively match the hatch. "There are a few reasons why this pattern works better than anything else I've used," he says. "The sink rate, the texture, and the color - all three factors contribute to the effectiveness. I believe the texture of this fly is of particular significance. The proprietary material Chicone uses for this pattern gives the crab a crunchy feel.� Cuffing the Convict There I was with the Contraband Crab and rod in hand, patiently waiting for the right moment to present my crustacean-like offering. Pierce spotted two fish feasting on fiddler crabs within just a few inches of each other and directed my cast. As my fly sank down into oysters, he offered up a few final words of wisdom. "Let it sink, do not strip it. Watch your line closely, you'll see it and feel it when he picks up your fly and bites down on it." I stood frozen in place until I felt the tap on my line and heard my guide exclaim, "He has it!" My heart instantly started to race. The fish soon realized it was hooked and took several hard, short downward runs. I tried my best to keep steady pressure on the line. Knowing how strong a set of sheepshead choppers are, and how sharp the edges of oysters can be, I uttered a quiet prayer that my tippet would hold up to the challenge. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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After what was only a few minutes, but seemed like a slice of eternity, our convict was at the boat. Pierce quickly took our quarry into temporary custody by scooping him up with the net for a quick photo. "You did it!" he exclaimed. Although I was fully aware that, as the unofficial warden of Estero Bay, it was Pierce's expertise and knowledge of sheepshead feeding behavior that made the experience possible, I was simply a good listener. To further our good fortune, the fish we landed was over 7-pounds the bigger of the two fish that Pierce spotted feeding just inches apart. We captured a few quick photos before gently releasing our stout black-andwhite striped captive back into the bay waters. Pierce unquestionably has the winter convict game dialed in, and I was grateful to be a participant in just one of his many backcountry arrests. Captain Debbie Hanson is an award-winning outdoor writer and freshwater fishing guide based in Southwest Florida. Hanson’s written work has appeared in publications such as Florida Game & Fish Magazine, BoatUS Magazine, and USA Today Hunt & Fish. To learn more about her work, visit her website at shefishes2.com. 14 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
Meet the Captain As a Southwest Florida native, Captain Codty Pierce has been fishing the backcountry waters of Pine Island Sound and Estero Bay for nearly two decades. His intense interest in Florida's estuary ecosystems and game fish species led him into a full-time career as a fishing guide. In fact, it's not uncommon to receive the bonus of an educational narrative about conservation or the local flora and fauna while spending a day with him.
Capt. Codty Pierce caught 50 sheepshead on a fly in a twomonth span. Photo by Capt. Debbie Hanson.
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Capt. Pierce specializes in fly and light tackle trips for sheepshead, snook, redfish, spotted seatrout, and tarpon. Although, when the season and conditions allow, he also targets nearshore species such as tripletail, Spanish mackerel, and permit. His trips are customized based on the time of year and the client's experience level. When he isn't guiding clients through the bays and on the flats, Capt. Pierce volunteers his time to assist with the Project Healing Waters program in Southwest Florida and shares his inshore fishing knowledge as a local seminar speaker. Pierce operates an 18foot Hell's Bay Marquesa flats boat, which has capacity for up to two anglers, and allows for stealthy shallow water access. Capt. Codty Pierce of Pierce Backcountry Adventures can be reached at (239) 200-5098 or by visiting his website at saltwaterbackcountry.com.
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Spanish Mac Cape Looko
t was early June, 1990-something, and I was standing on the bow of a skiff inside the hook of Cape Lookout Bight. In front of me was a fast moving school of Spanish mackerel in the 18-inch range. They were slashing and feeding with abandon. This was to be the first time I ever encountered them with a fly rod in hand, after previously catching them on small spoons and jigs. I made a nice cast with a 6-weight fly rod right into the middle of the melee and proceeded to retrieve my fly in the way I always had retrieved streamers for bass fishing in ponds and lakes. I saw three fish immediately split from the group and come to the fly - and proceed to swim around and look at it from three different angles before swimming away. It wasn’t until I remembered that we always retrieved jigs at warp speed that I figured out to strip my line as fast and with as long as a pull as I could muster. Then I started getting bites. Luckily, I had remembered to use a 40-pound fluorocarbon bite tippet, or else the fight would have been over in a hurry. Their teeth are interlocking scalpels that cut monofilament with better precision than your favorite pair of pliers. I proceeded to catch dozens of feisty Spanish that day and had a great fish feed over an open fire that night. When direct grilled with a squeeze of lemon, these fish are great eating.
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ckerel at ut
By Gordon Churchill
Spanish mackerel have razor sharp teeth that call for strong bite tippets. Photo by Gordon Churchill.
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So began my love affair with Cape Lookout and its Spanish mackerel on the fly. The first good action for Spanish mackerel around Cape Lookout usually occurs sometime from late April to mid-May every year. When the water temperature reliably gets above 70, or sometimes a few degrees cooler depending on if we have a lot of sunny days, the macks will be here. They will be hungry! Pretty much anything you throw at them, and move fast enough, will get bit. Mixed in with them will be plenty of small bluefish and once in a while some of the over-10-pounders that are locally known as Hatteras blues. The fish will first show along the beaches of Bogue Banks in a frenzy spreading from Emerald Isle to Atlantic Beach. If you happen to be there that day, it is epic! Get in front of the mass of fish, cast a 2-inch streamer, and strip it fast. You can use a floating fly line, because they will be feeding on top. The fish are a mix of sizes from right at 12 inches on up to 20 inches or more. The summer fishing is a bit more sedate. Generally you run out Bardens Inlet and look for feeding fish. Often on an outgoing tide they feed in the inlet itself. With the prevailing southwest wind in the summer, the water right along the beach can get a little murky, so generally the fish are going to either be a little offshore or right inside the hook. The Hook, as the name implies, is a J-hook shaped spit of land that offers protection from the winds in every direction and always offers a lee. It’s said that Blackbeard used to use it as an anchorage. This is classic, “find the birds, find the fish” action. Most days there will be something there, especially on an incoming tide. Pay particular attention to the presence of small baitfish called glass minnows. In June and July they are about the size of a man’s pinky finger, sometimes smaller. The Spanish aren’t particularly choosy, but matching size can be helpful. A streamer with a little bit of flash helps it get picked out. Clouser Minnows, Lefty’s Deceivers, or any style of baitfish fly, tied in all white will do the job. Bucktail gets a “haircut” pretty fast and you are left with a bare hook. Synthetic materials get the nod here. Sometime in July or early August the bigger mackerel filter out and you are left with small fish just bigger than the 12-inch minimum size. But, the best fishing of the year is yet to come. 20 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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October is the prime month for the biggest Spanish mackerel of the season. Pick a good day with a light wind from the northwest. This offers the best conditions along the beaches from Cape Lookout to Beaufort Inlet. I look for fish along the edges of the Cape Lookout Shoals. Often the water is quite clear and you see the mackerel swimming under the boat. The water also can be quite shallow, so be aware of breaking waves.
Stripping the fly as fast as possible is a key to hooking up on Spanish. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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This is the time of the year when I really like to fish a topwater fly. Any topwater offering works. Five-, 6- and 7-pounders strike these flies and go “skying.” Often they are so big that your 40-pound bite tippet won’t be thick enough and they snip it. But, use thicker and you don’t get bit. It’s a conundrum. I was cruising the shoals on a perfect early October day. The water temperature was 72. In a couple more weeks the Spanish would be gone. The first small false albacore of the year were sporadically making their appearance, but I was after a trophy Spanish. A guy I knew had caught a bunch in the 6-pound range the day before. He was casting spoons in the shallows around the shoals, so that’s where I headed. I spotted the birds circling and diving
Gordon Churchill is the author of Flyfishing The Southeast Coast from Skyhorse Publishing. A former guide and life-long fly angler, he came to the Carolina Coast with a fly rod when people would see a poling platform on the back of a skiff and ask if it was a cover to provide shade for the motor. 22 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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and moved in. I made one cast with a small popper, and after one pop, a fish exploded on it. I got a brief glimpse of the biggest Spanish mackerel I had ever seen as it seemed to levitate above my head before crashing back. Needless to say my tippet was not up to the task of those razors in its mouth and it skated off with a souvenir. The image of that huge Spanish mackerel sticks in my memory.
Finding the birds working the surface in the summer and you likely also find the Spanish mackerel. Photo by Gordon Churchill. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Illustration by Zane Jacobs.
The mackerel usually run from 12 inches up to around 20 inches. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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Geography
The area known as Cape Lookout is comprised of a variety of inlets and structures. The beaches run from east to west, so any stiff breeze from the south can make it difficult to fish a small boat in the ocean. The prevailing summer breezes come from the southwest and have a usual pattern of being calmer in the morning and building through the day. Best times in spring and summer to search for Spanish mackerel in small center consoles are early. The main thing that makes this area such a Mecca in the fall is the fact that north winds are blocked by the beaches of Shackleford Banks. This is the barrier island between Beaufort and Bardens Inlets. A 20-knot northeast wind that might keep boats at the dock in some places, just provides for challenging casting conditions here. The Hook is a protected area with an inlet on the west side. The beach goes along from there, past the Cape Lookout jetty, which is a landmark for anglers. Stay outside the buoy on your first visit. Beyond the jetty is the shoal, which projects a further 10 miles or so into the ocean. Fish will use the shoals. Keep an eye out for the shallowest zones, which can sneak up on you on a calm day. Usually there will be enough of a swell for there to be waves breaking on the shoals, which marks those shallowest zones. Be advised that every fall, somebody chasing breaking fish around here gets too close and their boat capsizes. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Zone In On
By Terry Gibson Florida’s Space and Treasure coasts offer plenty of s Targeting floating grass mats is a key to hooking up with a tripletail offshore. Photos by Terry Gibson.
T
hree days after Category 5 Hurricane Matthew brushed southeast Florida, there still wasn’t much sign of life among Stuart’s fishing fleet. Most of the dock slips near the St. Lucie Inlet remained vacant. Their crews had sheltered the boats in marinas and lees along Florida’s Gulf Coast. Nor were there any fishing vessels in sight as we ran out the inlet in my 2310 Bay Ranger. Leaving the inlet, armed only with fly rods, we felt tiny on the dying
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n Tripletail
shots at one of the ocean’s most mysterious fish.
swells. Yet we were confident that there would be no shortage of opportunities for species as diverse as tripletail, mahi, cobia, as well as a variety of jacks and tunas. When tropical cyclones turn north over Caribbean islands, the inevitable destruction creates all sorts of flotsam that follows in their wakes on the Gulf Stream current. Boards, weed patches, and sadly, lots of plastic, dotted the horizon.
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Honestly, we never leave the dock to target tripletail offshore. But I’m never surprised to see one in floating debris. Tripletail occur throughout the world in tropical and temperate waters, including bays, estuaries and offshore waters. If the water is warm enough — in my experience north of 70 degrees — it’s a good idea to check out any floating object or marker in areas where they’re known to show up. The very first mat of floating weed and debris we checked had a garbage can lid floating on its edge. Sure enough, right below it, we saw the outline of a big tripletail and its shadow rippling below it through the sapphire colored water. My buddy Sean, an old hand at the blue water fly-fishing game, grabbed a 9-weight with an intermediate-sink line and a 3-inch Eat Me streamer. That should have done the trick, but Sean landed the fly on the lid and I saw the fish flinch in the shade of its temporary housing. It wasn’t going anywhere, so we had plenty of time to change to “permit” tactics. In spring and summer, large schools of permit aggregate on area reefs. They are very wary, but I’ve had some success with very heavy crab patterns. The trick seems to be a long, light, fluorocarbon leader and a floating line. The fly must land where the fish can see it, but not too close since it makes a splashing landing. And, the fly must sink vertically, like a crab diving for the bottom. I know that doesn’t make a lot of sense in deep water and with ample floating cover. But it worked for that tripletail. Sean put the crab fly about 5 feet from the lid, but the fish had turned the other direction. When the heavy crab fly caused the tip of the fly line to sink, he picked up his line and waited until the fish turned our way. When it did, he made another good
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Tripletail exhibit the odd habit of floating on their side near the surface. Photo by Cory Wheeler.
cast and just let the fly sink. Both of us saw the tripletail dart down and sideways. But Sean did not get excited and impart any action on the sinking fly. When the fly line jerked suddenly, Sean strip-struck, and
the fish came flying out of the water. A couple of minutes later, we had one of the most delicious fish in the ocean on ice. A few hours later, we would return to the quiet boat ramp with several mahi in the 15-pound range, plus the tripletail, and sore backs from a fight we picked with a school of amberjacks over a wreck. Southeast Florida offers some of the world’s most diverse species targeted by saltwater fly anglers, and while tripletail aren’t typically the “target species,” they’re often in the mix. We are always on the lookout for objects such as boards, floating trees, and, of course, trashcan lids. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Stuart angler Cory Wheeler with a flycaught tripletail. Photo courtesy of Cory Wheeler.
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Canaveral Bight In addition to waters off Jekyll Island, Georgia, and the southern tip of Mississippi, the Cape Canaveral Bight is one of three places in the United States where tripletail congregate—perhaps for reasons related to spawning—during the spring months. March through May, and sometimes even earlier, fly anglers visit Cape Canaveral specifically to target tripletail. Cape Canaveral, with its miles of undeveloped shoreline thanks to the National Seashore, offers a gorgeous expanse of water to chase this unique species. Offshore shoals offer protection from ocean swells. These features lend a sensation of fishing in a valley between tall sand dunes and swells rising in ephemeral peaks as they hit the shoals. Tripletail have no known relatives. Scientists are still researching why these aggregations occur, but all three locales are shallow basins loaded with menhanden and other forage. Tripletail spawn offshore, so it may be that the fish come inshore in those areas to consume the energy they need to make the trip back out into open waters and reproduce. These big, hungry fish typically attack flies. Local guides tend to focus on channel markers, buoys, and any other structure. They also keep a lookout for pods of menhaden, which are locally called “pogies.” You may spend hours with your eyes glued to the water in search of any sign of life, but it is a riveting experience. Given high sun and clear water, fly anglers sight cast small baitfish streamers, such as Clouser Minnows, the Eat Me, and Norm Zeigler’s Crystal Schminnow. Crab and shrimp patterns also work well, especially on fussy fish. Seven- to 9-weight rods with floating and intermediate-sink lines work best anywhere you target tripletail. These fish tend to be large adults, and will take you into the structure quickly. Unless the water is really clear, you can go as heavy as 25-pound-test fluorocarbon for tippet. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Indian River Lagoon The Indian River Lagoon (IRL) is one of the world’s most biologically diverse estuaries and tripletail venture in through the inlets to take advantage of her abundant forage, which ranges from shrimp and crabs to mullet and menhaden. We specifically target tripletail in the IRL, mostly around crab trap buoys and channel markers in areas that are influenced by tides, so relatively near the Jupiter, St. Lucie, or Sebastian inlets, and around Port Canaveral. It’s “run-and-gun” fishing, and if the sky and water are clear enough you can usually spot the fish. Running and gunning for tripletail is a productive and exciting way to extend a morning fishing trip, or a good reason to start earlier than usual in the afternoon. Throughout the year, crab trap buoys dot the lagoon. During stone crab season, October through May, the number of buoys multiplies tremendously. The channel markers are also usually good for a few “trips.” On approach, the captain needs to factor sun angle, wind direction, and current to get the angler into an optimal position to see and cast. Ideally, I put the sun behind the angler, the wind so it won’t blow the line back toward the boat, and proceed up current. Most folks use a trolling motor on the approach. The advent of the remotely controlled trolling motor has made this game much easier, and safer for the captain. But polling offers a better view and is even stealthier, if the water is shallow enough. Tripletail typically lurk under or slightly down current of the buoy, very close to the surface. They frequently give themselves away by vaulting basslike through a shower of minnows. But I’ve often seen them camouflaged half way to the bottom hanging behind algae strands clinging to the rope.
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Take Way
Whether you find yourself targeting tripletail offshore, along a gorgeous Space Coast or Treasure Coast beach, or in the majestic Indian River Lagoon, get in the zone and think about your presentation carefully before casting. It’s not just important where
Flies that resemble menhaden often are the ticket for hooking a tripletails. Photo by Terry Gibson.
and how softly the fly lands. It’s also important to swing the fly naturally, without hanging up on rope or structure, in range of the jaws of the most mysterious and powerful visitors along this ecologically diverse stretch of coast. Terry Gibson has fly fished Florida’s Space and Treasure Coast waters since he was a kid. Terry has served in various editorial capacities at publications, including Saltwater Fly Fishing, Florida Sportsman/Shallow Water Angler, and Outdoor Life. He lives with his family in Jensen Beach, where he owns North Swell Media & Consulting, a firm dedicated to sustainable environmental policies. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Reel in the memories. Sitting on the most biodiverse estuary in the Northern Hemisphere, Martin County is a fisherman’s paradise. Ocean, lake and river ecosystems are home to more than 800 species of fish, from the ever-popular sailfish and snook to largemouth bass and perch. Forget your gear? Visit one of Martin’s many bait and tackle shops or outdoor retailers. Inshore, offshore, saltwater or fresh, head out for an adventure and reel in the memories.
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Southern Saltwater Fly Fishing
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
The Bones By Polly Dean
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hen speaking of the “bones” of Mangrove Cay, of course one's first thoughts are of the island's world-class bonefishing – and with good reason. But after a recent trip to this Out Island of the Bahamas, I discovered that the bones of Mangrove Cay can carry a completely different meaning as well. To me, the bones of this island are the locals that make this tropical fishing destination so much more than
just a place to catch a bounty of bonefish. The true backbone to Mangrove Cay and the surrounding islands of Andros, are the people, its history, and their culture. The population of Mangrove Cay is small, at around 1,000 people. They are polite and friendly, but also resilient and resourceful, with most making their living off the water.
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Capt. Randy Thompson scanning the flats for bonefish. Photo by Polly Dean.
Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
s of Mangrove Cay The members of the close-knit community of Mangrove Cay are hospitable and enjoy meeting people from other places. They have a strong sense of family, with an importance on education. They also enjoy good food and fun, which is evident by the number of festivals they hold in their local park. Sponging has played a major role in the economy, since the 1800s. By harvesting sponge without destroying the roots of these living animals, they allow this important resource to replenish itself. Sponging continues to play a key role in their economy today. Along with centuries of commercial fishing and diving for spiny lobster, the residents are equipped with a keen knowledge of their local waters. It seems only natural that with these well-developed skills, the local recreational fishing guides are extremely adept at knowing where to find the bonefish.
Captain Randy Thompson is one such guide, who grew up on the water gathering lobsters. From Moxey Town, he is a youngster compared to some of the guides in the area, but has 13 years of guiding experience under his belt. Randy had been mentored by the head guide of a popular fishing lodge in the area, “to learn the logistics of guiding and how to find the fishy flats,” he said. As to why he guides fly fishermen, “I had seen bones caught on spinning gear and hand lines. The first time I saw a bonefish caught on a fly rod, I thought they were really exciting fish when taken that way.”
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Mangrove Cay
An island within an island, Mangrove Cay (pronounced key), is situated near the center of Andros Island, the largest of the Bahama's more than 700 islands. Being surrounded by water, most notably the Middle and South Bights, anglers won't have any trouble finding favorable conditions in which to locate fish. Wind and weather are rarely an issue when one has the option of fishing on any side of Mangrove Cay, or among the myriad of uninhabited cays on its west side. Known as the “bonefish capital of the world,” Andros and Mangrove Cay are home to some of the largest bonefish in the world, with some reaching double digits in size. In addition to the big ones, bonefish in the 3- to 5-pound range are plentiful in the bights and on the hard sand flats on the eastside. Regular shots at 6- to 10-pounders are not uncommon.
Randy guided us on the Middle Bight, at the northern edge of Mangrove Cay. “We have a lot of playground out here,” he says with a smile. The wind is blowing out of the east about 15 miles per hour, but here it's as calm as I've seen. Randy has us tucked in on sandy flats among the many smaller islands. 42 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Conditions are very similar in the Middle Bight compared to the previous day where we fished the South Bight. My fishing partner and I were more adjusted to seeing the fish and enticing them to eat. After making our cast, we were practiced at allowing the fly to sink a few seconds before making our long, slow strips. Some fish darted away as we raised to cast – we learned to make fewer or no false casts. But, the fish were often forgiving and if they sped away, it was usually only for a short distance, many times allowing us to approach them a second or even third time.
The bonefish were hanging close to the mangrove shoots on this day. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
The author and Capt. Thompson with one of her bonefish. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs. 44 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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I also learned from our first day that “fish ahead at 11:00” did not necessarily mean “a” bonefish was spotted at the 11:00 position on the clock, but that sometimes fish ahead meant a herd of bones were headed my way. It doesn't take more than a few minutes before Randy spots the first of many bonefish of the day. This morning the fish we found tended to be feeding closer along the shore and edges of mangroves. In fact, one hooked bonefish made the usual searing run, bringing me to my backing, only to head straight for a single mangrove seedling close to shore, running between two of its roots embedded into the sandy bottom. My only chance at landing and releasing this fish, was with Randy hopping out of the boat to gently take hold of the line and guide it back through the branches of the rooted plant. The day continued with several bonefish being caught and released. We enjoyed our day with Randy and when he told us that he liked meeting people and the hospitality part of his job, it was easy to believe. The guides of Mangrove Cay have a reputation for being the best in the business and from our experience and reports from fellow anglers it seemed to be true.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Back at Swain's Cay Lodge
Our headquarters for the week was Swain's Cay Lodge located on the eastern side of Mangrove Cay. At low tide anglers can wade just off the beach of the lodge toward a small island where bonefish frequent the white sand flats. During the different phases of the tide it is fairly easy to pinpoint the channels that the fish are likely to use to enter or leave the flats. During our brief time of wading the area we saw several fish, and managed to land and take a few photos of one before having to head to shore for a tour of the island. It was rewarding to sight and catch a fish of my own after learning a few tricks from the experts the last couple of days. I can't wait to return another time! Capt. Randy Thompson can be contacted for rates and available dates through his Facebook page at facebook.com/ AndrosBonefish/. Polly Dean is a field editor for Southern Saltwater Fly Fishing Magazine, as well as a freelance contributor to Florida Sportsman, Game & Fish Magazines and Fishing Tackle Retailer Magazine.
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Releasing a bonefish. Photo by Polly Dean.
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Another Day in Paradise…
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
SWAIN'S CA Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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he allure of chasing bonefish, permit and tarpon in the Bahamas is strong, drawing anglers from around the world to the islands. The chance to sample the best such fishing in the world is a siren call that most anglers have to finally answer at some point in their fishing careers.
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AY
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' RESORT
“Much of the best of this action takes place in the Out Islands, far from the glitz of the resorts in Nassau and Freeport. Some potential visiting anglers may worry that traveling to these more remote destinations will prove challenging in getting there and what to expect. Will they find a host that is familiar with the needs of fly fishers? Also will the accommodations be up to a standard to make the trip successful and enjoyable?� Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
The main guest building at Swain’s Cay. Photo by Polly Dean.
Swain’s Cay Lodge on Mangrove Cay (Cay is pronounced Key here) is a prime example of the new breed of facilities that are appearing in the Out Islands. Situated between North and South Andros Islands, the resort caters to the specific needs of fly casters, offers first-class accommodations and service, and a welcoming atmosphere. That latter item is not surprising, since it lies in what is often referred to as the Family Islands. The local residents know how to make a visitor welcome. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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The guest rooms are comfortable and inviting at Swain’s Cay. Photo by Polly Dean.
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Swain’s Cay owner Cheryl Bastian fell victim to that welcoming appeal herself. Originally from Nassau, her mother was a waitress and father a taxi driver. For her own career she chose financial services, in which she spent 33 years. Then on a visit to family members on Mangrove Cay, Ms. Bastian fell in love with the island, where immediately upon arrival, she “unwound” from the stress of the business world. She also noticed a piece of land with waterfront access that was perfectly situated for a lodge.
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That was in 2009 and quickly she purchased the property and began building Swain’s Cay from scratch. As with her earlier career, she was driven to succeed and finish the project. While visitors are encouraged to enjoy a leisurely pace, don’t expect to constantly butt heads with the concept of “island time.” At Swain’s Cay you will get on the water at the right time for fishing, and other activities are arranged to accommodate that schedule. 56 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Being a sharp business woman, Cheryl Bastian knows that retention of past clients is a key to success. For that reason Swain’s Cay pays attention to the needs of visiting anglers. A good example is the purchase of fishing licenses. To take the hassle out Photo by Jimmy of getting those, she buys them in bulk Jacobs. to have at the resort. Upon arrival you have one filled out and added to your bill. It is much simpler than having to do it via mail in advance or in person at a government office. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Also of imporlodge’s location bedle Bights. Those tion from breezes, which they originate. makes fishing impossible. Swain’s Cay works with the that know the tides, the waThe lodge provides a van to guide at the docks on either turns you to the resort after
tance to fly casters is the tween the North and Midbodies of water offer protecregardless of the direction from It is a rare day when the wind To provide for the most success, best of local independent guides ters and the fish well. take you to meet your of the bights, and refishing.
angling, front of tunities for fringe.
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Finally, if you want a day of do-it-yourself the low tide flats around the small isle in the lodge’s beach provides wading opporbonefish cruising its white sand northern
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The dining hall and duplexes at Swain’s Cay. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
As to the actual facility, Swain’s Cay has nine units, totaling 21 beds. These are composed of duplex apartments or beach front, ocean view or garden view rooms. Daily maid service is provided.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
There also is a combination dining, lounge and bar building fronting on the lodge’s white sand beach. Continental breakfast is served here, but full breakfasts also are available. Lunches for carrying on the boat are offered, with each day ending with full dinners. The bar provides beer, wine and a variety of liquors. Other amenities available are complimentary Wi-Fi, use of bicycles, kayaks and snorkeling gear.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
Getting to Swain’s Cay is quite easy. A number of major airlines fly into Nassau from all over North America. From there you can catch an “island hop” flight of just 20 minutes with either Lea Air or Flamingo Air to Clarence Bain Airport on Mangrove Cay. A shuttle van will meet you there for the complimentary 15-minute ride to the lodge. For more information and rates for Swain’s Cay Lodge, visit swainscaylodge.com.
SSFF Field Editor Polly Dean with a bonefish on the flats in front of Swain’s Cay Lodge. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Exploring M
More Than Ju Story & Photos by Jimmy Jacobs
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
Mangrove Cay M
angrove Cay is considered to be part of Andros Island, though it actually is a separate and much smaller isle nestled between North and South Andros. But, its size doesn’t mean it has not been important in the history of the region. Today its population is around a thousand inhabitants, but once was triple that number. It also was the capital of Andros during British colonial administration.
Sponge fishermen putting their catch ashore to dry.
ust Fishing
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Sponge fisherman Abraham Greene with his catch. He also is a cousin of fishing guide Shine Greene.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
Economically, Mangrove Cay was at the heart of the thriving sponge industry of past years, and still is the leader in that industry in the Bahamas. The island’s sponge fishermen developed a method of cutting off sections of the sponge, so that it doesn’t kill the animal and they simply grow back. As a result the business has not died off, as it did in Florida waters. Wool, hardhead and grass sponges are harvested commercial here.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Although the town of Mangrove Cay on the central east coast of the island was the traditional capital, that title now rests with Moxey Town on the north end. Its most famed citizen is Ralph Moxey, the now retired first bonefish guide on the island and a renowned boat builder. His son Clarence is in the process of opening the Mangrove Heritage Museum in the town as well. It’s also where you find Shine’s Conch Shack (see the End of the Line column).
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
Former fishing guide and boat builder Ralph Moxey.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Our Lady of the Star of the Sea shrine.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
The Chimney “lighthouse” used to signal the ferry.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
From the historical standpoint, Mangrove Cay has much that relates to the water. Our Lady of the Star of the Sea shrine sits on the main road in the Mangrove Cay
All Saints Anglican Church.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
community. Anglers and commercial fishermen put palm leaves on the shrine prior to setting sail to ensure good catches. Nearby is the All Saints Anglican Church that dates from 1818.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Not far to the north are the Government Docks. These now abandoned stone structures were erected for a visit from Prince Edward, the Duke of Windsor, who abdicated the British throne to marry Wallis Simpson. On the extreme southern end of Mangrove Cay stands the unusual Chimney “lighthouse.” At one time fires were lit in it, with the smoke rising as a signal to the ferry boat on South Andros that customers were waiting to board to cross the South Bight.
The Government Docks built for Prince Edward’s visit.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Bonafide Bonef Long Island, Bahamas
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
fishing & Fly Shop O
ne caution you always hear when heading to the Bahamas for some fly fishing is bring plenty of gear, because there are no fly shops and the resort will have only a limited supply of flies to purchase. If, however, your destination is Long Island, that is not the case.
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Mangrove Cay. CLOSE LOOK
Bonafide Bonefishing & Fly Shop on Queens Highway in Stella Maris is a full-service fly shop that also offers conventional tackle and Bahamian souvenirs. Additionally, it’s worth noting, it is the only fly shop in The Bahama Islands! Owners James “Docky” and Jill Smith opened the fly shop in 2007, while Docky has been guiding anglers to bonefish for 26 years. Adding to the appeal of their operation, next door they opened Docky’s Flats Bar in 2018. You can pick up some gear, book a day of fishing and enjoy a cold libation at the end of the trip all in the same place! The bar serves lunch and dinner, plus on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays starting at 6 p.m., Docky is on hand to talk bonefishing with the patrons. You can expect to hear him talk about Long Island’s vast, remote and pristine flats that are home to lots of bonefish and permit. Whether it’s in the bar, on the water or in the shop, Docky also is ready to dispense advice on the fishing. “Have an open mind when you are fishing,” he offered, adding. “The weather should be respected, but not a factor to worry about when booking.” That’s especially true of the wind. “I will teach you to cast into the wind so you never have to worry about that again! Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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“Remember to fish happy and enjoy the day!” he concluded. Docky Smith is well versed on the fishing and was the first Bahamian guide to write a book on bonefishing. Through a Guide’s Eye is available on Amazon.com by searching for Docky Smith. Needless to say, a visit to the island puts you in a warm, sunny, tropical locale that also boasts gorgeous beaches and the isle’s famed swimming pigs. Still, it is the fishing, and particularly fly fishing, that brings the bulk of the visitors to Long Island. Serving those fly fishers is the main focus of the shop. Don’t expect to find just a minimal selection thrown together as an afterthought. Bonafide is a full-service operation. “It is very important, being a remote island,” Docky said. “Many people come to fish and fly fish – and things happen. Bags get lost, equipment gets lost or broken, and so it is important to have these items on hand so that vacations won’t be ruined. Also, there’s the potential for a beginner to want to try for the first time. It’s important to have the correct rods and reels available for them.” Indeed, the shop is visited by both experienced men and women fly casters, but also by a number of youngsters just getting into the sport. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Besides Docky, the shop can arrange trips with other native guides in the area. The brands that the shop carries are Tibor, Able and Redington reels, rods from Sage and Scott, along with accessories from Scientific Angler and Oakley polarized sunglasses. They also have Sims and Columbia fly-fishing and sun-protection shirts, as well as their own Bonafide Bonefishing line of apparel. Docky Smith sees a couple of developing trends in the fly-fishing community on Long Island, especially in who is doing the fishing. “Used to be mid-
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dle-aged men,” he explained. “Now it is everybody, including younger men, ladies and kids. I find this wonderful; it is becoming more of a sport for the entire family!” The changes also are in how those anglers are fishing. “Used to be folks just wanted to catch bonefish and as many as possible,” Smith said. “Today, anglers are more interested in the art of fly fishing and casting, and casting to that one nice big fish, rather than just catching a bunch of fish!” For more information on Bonafide Bonefishing & Fly Shop, or Docky’s Flats Bar, visit bonafidebonefishing.com.
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CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
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PASSING OF A LEGEND
“Crazy” Charlie Smith
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ack on December 30, 2018, the fly fishing community lost one of the true legends of our sport. Captain Charlie Smith was a renowned guide on the waters around Andros Island in the Bahamas, as well as having operated two of the iconic fishing lodges of that region. His original hostel was Charlie’s Haven at Behring Point, which burned down in 1983. More recently he re-opened the Bang Bang Club on Pot Cay. Smith often pointed out that he was the first Bahamian to open his own fishing lodge in the islands. Born on Grand Cay in Abaco in 1936, Smith began taking anglers out in boats for fishing when just 10 years old. He became a professional fishing guide in 1960, gravitating to bonefish and fly fishing. He, however, was a man of many talents. At various times he tried his hand at running heavy equipment, captaining yachts, and for 25 years as a professional chef. Additionally, he was a talented musician. Yet, always he returned to fishing. Despite that history, Charlie Smith is best known as the originator of the Crazy Charlie bonefish fly. It is perhaps the most famous and successful pattern associated with those fish.
The Crazy Charlie is perhaps the best known bonefish fly in existence. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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As with many tales from the islands, separating fact from myth can sometimes be difficult. Regarding the origins of the Crazy Charlie, one version attributes it to an instance when no crab bait was available, so Smith cobbled together some chicken feathers, tread, wire and beads to create the fly. Another story has Bob Nauheim, the founder of Fishing International, a sport fishing travel agency in California tying the first of the pattern while fishing with Smith in 1977. In this version, the fly was to imitate glass minnows. Nauheim then took the fly home with him and showed it to Leigh Perkins of Orvis, who added it to their catalog. A third version of the tale simply had Smith sharing his pattern with Nauheim. Also clouding the history of the fly is the tale that it was originally named the Nasty Charlie. Supposedly Charlie Smith saw Nauheim’s finished pattern and said “Dat fly is nasty mon.” That quote has been passed around for decades. However, one of Smith’s grandchildren has pointed out that the term “mon” is synonymous with Jamaica and not used by Bahamians. He suggested that Charlie would more likely have used the term “bey” (pronounced bae), which is what Bahamians use instead of mon. 88 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Tan and pink are the most popular color patterns for the Crazy Charlie. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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Regardless of how it originated, Charlie Smith and the Crazy Charlie have forever been linked. The fly was noted for being the first pattern tied with bead chain eyes that made the hook point to face up when retrieved. In the ensuing years, a large number of variations on the original have been developed. The modern Crazy Charlie is usually tied in size 2 through 8 on stainless steel saltwater hooks. Thread used is 6/0, and the inclusion of a tail is optional and probably not original. The body is pearlescent tinsel, with an overlap of clear vinyl or monofilament line. Calf hair is used for the wing, with some pearlescent flash. Bead chain eyes complete the tie. The fly most often appears in pink or tan versions, though other colors can be used. All the myth and history aside, there is no doubt that Charlie Smith will be remembered as long as saltwater anglers head to the flats with the Crazy Charlie in their fly boxes.
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SweetWater Brewing Company • Georgia • SweetWaterBrew.com
CLOSE LOOK Mangrove Cay.
Shine Greene An Emerging Legend Shine Greene has been guiding out of his Back Country Ghost flats boat since 1997. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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S
pend a day on the water with Ornald “Shine” Greene and you realize that if he hasn’t already arrived, he’s well on his way to following in the footsteps of Ralph Moxey as a legend on Mangrove Cay. In fact, with Moxey’s retirement from regular guiding, Shine has inherited the unofficial title of dean of Mangrove Cay’s fly-fishing guides. Born and raised on the north end of Mangrove Cay in Little Harbor, which is more frequently known locally as Moxey Town, Shine got his nickname during his school days. Later on he pursued a life on the water in the commercial fishing business, rising to become captain of one of the larger vessels.
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Shine Greene on the poling platform hunting for bonefish. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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His career took a different direction after his ship was caught in Hurricane Lili in 1996. In that storm all of the fishing skiffs were lost and the main boat nearly capsized. At that point, Shine decided there had to be a better way to make a living on the water and turned to guiding recreational fishermen. For that he purchased a Back Country Ghost 161 flats boat in 1997 and continues to fish from it today. “This boat put four kids through college,’ Greene noted proudly. The new life as a fishing guide suited Shine perfectly, especially when dealing with younger or novice anglers. “I like to get beginners,” he agreed. “I like to teach. I love the look on their faces when they catch the first fish.” It is a look he has seen many times in his two decades of guiding. Much of that action takes place on the South Bight between Mangrove Cay on the north shore and South Andros Island to the south. The fish of choice here are bonefish, since the waters around Mangrove Cay, as well as North and South Andros Islands are noted for producing some of the biggest in the Bahamas. Shine knows very well the waters of the bight and the fish that live there. It’s a region that offers options for getting out of the wind, regardless of the direction of the breeze. But, it’s best when those winds are not blowing. “Tailers like it nice and calm,” Greene explained. “Then tails pop up all over the place.” Even on more turbulent days, however, sight casting to the bonefish is possible in the clear water on the white sand flats fringed by mangrove shores. Once spotted, Shine provides advice on how to catch those fish. “Use a long, slow strip,” he said. “Then when he takes it, you feel him and can set the hook, if you need to. On short strips you can lose your (grip on the) line.” When the fish is on the line, hang on. These bonefish are strong and make sizzling runs. Sometimes those runs are in the direction of trouble. “When a fish goes to the mangroves,” Shine said, “you raise the rod high away from him. You want to force him away from mangroves. It’s just like leading a horse.” Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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The bonefish around Mangrove Cay are much less spooky than those in the Florida Keys. If a bad cast sends them scurrying, don’t expect Shine to crank the motor and move to another location right away. “I don’t want to leave fish to go look for fish,” he noted. Usually the school, or even singles, run a short distance and can be approached again with success. As to flies to use, Mangrove Cay is much like other destinations in the Caribbean, where fly shops are sparse. Shine’s own situation highlights that situation. “I tie a little bit,” he said, “Not as much as I’d like. I order online or have friends who are coming down bring me a fly or two with them.” He went on to say that you can catch bonefish around Mangrove Cay on about any color of fly, though he does prefer tan. Crazy Charlies and No. 2 Clouser Minnows are two that work well, but a No. 4 Bonefish Gotcha is a go-to-fly here. Finding Shine Greene on Mangrove Cay is not difficult. Virtually everyone either is related to him or knows him! But, one good way to make contact is through Swain’s Cay Lodge at swainscaylodge.com.
Shine Greene with one of the South Bight bonefish. Photo by Polly Dean.
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764 Miami Circle, Atlanta, Georgia 30324| Phone: (404) 237-3473
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GALVAN FLY REELS
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Cat Island Br SeatroutontheM
By Capt. Sonny Schindler Photos Courtesy of Shore Thing Fishing Charters
T
he smell is usually what gets you first. It's that thick salty smell when the salinity is way up. Then you get a hint of another scent, that sweet aroma of a feeding, seatrout slick. It's early morning, and the sun hasn't quite peeked over the horizon. You scan the water to find the origin of the slick. You can barely make out the sheen on the water. Then the terns and gulls start dropping down on the bait fish. There is little wind, so you can hear the birds signaling each other that there is an easy meal beneath them. Between the birds diving, and the trout feeding, the poor baitfish don't stand a chance.
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ruiser Trout MississippiCoast
s Overnight stays on Cat Island provide chances to sample the evening bite
You cast to the last explosion, the bubbles are still fresh on top of the water’s surface. The line barely has a chance to touch the water. The line never stops, it just keeps on going. You set the hook, and the resistance of the big fish gets your heart rate going. The big trout has no intentions of giving you a fair fight. The wise old fish gives powerful runs, violent head shakes, and even an attempt at a jump. The trout is too large to fully clear water. After what seems like eternity, the fat seatrout finally gives up, enters the net, and is swung into the boat. Then the sun appears. Our guides have seen this scenario play out countless times at Cat Island, 7 miles off the Mississippi Gulf Coast. This stunning island contains miles of fertile grass beds, white sand beaches, and lush forests, all teaming with wildlife. Our charter company - Shore Thing Charters - is fortunate to run overnight all-inclusive trips on Cat Island. Our early morning and late evening fishing sessions off of this barrier island, have been magical over the past several years. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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The trout around Cat Island can put a smile on any angler's face.
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This sea grass is what brings in the trophy trout. I have stood on the bow of my 26-foot Avenger in gin clear water, and just stared into this grass while drifting. I have seen thousands of bait fish scattering from patch to patch. I can only assume, this is what brings our big trout into the shallows around Cat Island. It is a seemingly endless world of food and protection. We usually spend the majority of April through October around Cat Island. Historically, May and June hold the biggest numbers of trout. Late September and October, bring the cooling temperatures and the redfish. Like anywhere, weather and tides play a crucial role in every outing we take. Drifting the grass beds on the north and south sides of Cat Island, typically is our most productive way to fish. There is a method to the madness. A hard 104 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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west wind can chop and murk up both sides of the islands grass beds. Yes, we have caught trout in this chop, but the majority of our memorable trips are in calmer and cleaner water. If you can plan your trips with southern or northerly winds, this gives you at least one side of this better water conditions. Be advised, a hard northwest wind, and a low tide all but drain the water around Cat island. Go slow, and watch for shallow bars even up to half a mile off the island when the water is low. The grass beds can be a curse later in the summer. Every year, the grass begins to wilt and shed. When this happens, even the best weedless fly made will tangle in the mats of dead grass. This is when we tuck inside of the bayous and begin fishing drains, points and shorelines.
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When conditions are right, the bait is what we use to find the trout. Three feet of water or less is where we typically have our best luck. When we see bay anchovies, rain minnows, finger mullet, pogies or ballyhoo getting smashed, that is where we start. If the bait is there, the fish will be there. Leave the big motor off - it does nothing but hurt the grass and spook the fish. A trolling motor, or push pole is best for setting up your drift. Once you get an idea of where you want to fish, let the wind quietly push you over the grass. A power pole, or spike anchor is a nice way to stop. There are "hot spots" in the grass, where the bait and trout give you plenty of action. Mark these spots, and when the conditions of tide, wind and bait are similar, drift through them again. We have some hot spots that 106 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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seem to produce big trout, year after year. A good 7- or 8-weight set up is the norm. Distance is key when working these grass beds. You need to be comfortable with whatever rod and reel you bring. Long casts, with short quick twitches on the retrieve suffice. The majority of the fish seem to hit when the flies are sinking or resting. There always are lulls, but this is where you have to keep working. We have drifted hundreds and hundreds of yards of grass before finding trout that cooperate. Some days your arms will be sore from casting, and other days they are sore from fighting fish. Tw e n t y - p o u n d fluorocarbon leaders are what we recommend. There is always the possibility of a big bull red or other sea monster showing up. On the days the water is very clear, just scale the leader Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Cat Island got its name when early explorers mistook raccoons on the island for cats.Illustration by Zane Jacobs
down, and hope for the best if a big fellow shows up. Deceivers, Clouser Minnows, shrimp patterns, and poppers all work. Pink, white and chartreuse have always been our go to colors around Cat Island. A little shimmer is good, but go easy on the really flashy patterns. They tend to bring in the toothy critters. Be mindful, the warmer summer months bring in other guest to Cat Island. Acres of ladyfish, bluefish, Spanish mackerel, jack crevalle and sharks descend on the island when the bait fish (especially rafts of mullet) get thick. The water will actually boil with these veracious predators relentlessly feeding. When this happens, you either move to another section of the island, or break out the wire leader and join the party. Capt. Sonny Schindler grew up on the Mississippi Coast and has a degree in journalism from the University of Southern Mississippi. He has been guiding for Shore Thing Fishing Charters for more than a decade. He can be contacted for fishing at shorethingcharters.com or sonny-schindler@yahoo.com. 108 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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The three-story house on Cat Island used for all-inclusive overnight stays.
Shore Thing Fishing Charters
Shore Thing Fishing Charters has seven full-time boats and guides. Established in 2003, it is the largest charter fishing service in Mississippi. The service is licensed, permitted and insured to fish in Mississippi and Louisiana, as well as the barrier islands. The Shore Thing guides run hundreds of day trips out of their docks in Bayou Caddy and Pass Christian annually. Shore Thing also runs all-inclusive overnight fishing trips to Cat Island. Guided fishing charters, all meals, and lodging are included. This excursion to the modern, three-story house is the only operation of its kind in the northern Gulf of Mexico. The main target for customers are trout, redfish, tripletail, flounder, black drum and sharks, along with several other species. Rods, reels, tackle, waters, snacks, fuel, ice and fish cleaning are included on all trips. Visit their website at shorethingcharters.com for more information and rates. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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In Zane Gre
Here’s a look back to a quarter century ago when Southern Saltw a long rod in hand. It also began a decades’ long romance with t By Jimmy Jacobs
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t’s rather unusual for a fish tale to begin in the public library, but, in fact, that is where this one started. Being interested in the literary world as well as fishing, I find that, regardless of where I travel, I feel compelled to explore the local waters and follow up on any connection the place has to the world of writing.
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ey’s Footsteps
water Fly Fishing Editor Jimmy Jacobs first took to the brine with targeting barracuda on topwater flies.
For those reasons, a rainy afternoon in May that spoiled a fishing trip found me poring over a dusty file of yellowing magazine clippings in the Monroe County public library branch in Islamorada, Florida. The folder containing them was labeled "Zane Grey," and had been retrieved from a file cabinet in a remote corner of the building. Here was a treasure trove of information that combined both my passions. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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As any angling history buff can attest, Grey was the most renowned fisherman of the early 20th century. He was a founder of the International Gamefish Association and responsible for discovering a host of angling destinations that he reported to the American populace. He also found time to write some of the most popular and enduring western fiction ever penned. One of the new fishing destinations that Grey pioneered was the Florida Keys. It was by accident that he and his brother ended up on Long Key (two islands south of Upper Matecumbe Key on which Islamorada is located), when they aborted a tarpon fishing trip to Tampico, Mexico, because of a yellow fever outbreak there. That first trip in 1910 used the railroad construction camp of Henry Flagler's Florida East Coast Railway on Long Key as the headquarters for their fishing adventures. The angling was so good that Grey convinced Flagler to build a fishing camp on the sight, and the Long Key Fishing Club was born. Up until the clubhouse blew away in the great killer hurricane of 1935, the camp provided some of the most spectacular fishing in the world to some of the most prominent people of the times.
Most of the musty clippings I found dealt with Grey's quest for big-game species offshore from Long Key, detailing some spectacular battles with sailfish, amber jack and kingfish. The stories that caught my eye, however, were a bit less glamorous. One of these, entitled, The Barracuda of Long Key was actually written by Zane Grey over 75 years earlier, detailing a trip to Indian Key trestle and fishing from that bridge. Unfortunately, only the first page of the story was in the file - just enough to whet my appetite for adventure. The other article told of Grey's involvement with The Bonefish Brigade. These anglers regularly challenged bonefish in those early years by fishing from the shore on Long Key. Thus I had two documented Zane Grey fishing adventures that could be attempted by an angler traveling on foot. Here was an opportunity any fisherman with a bent toward history could not pass up. Since the Overseas Highway still used the original railroad bridge (now rerouted on a new span beside the old bridge) to cross Indian Key Cut, and the shore near the bonefish flats on Long Key at the sight of the fishing club is in the Long Key State Recreation Area, it seemed possible that I could recreate Zane Grey's fishing ventures. I could hardly wait to find out! 112 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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As the fishing gods so often ordain, weather and work schedules postponed my adventure by almost a full year to the very day. But when I did get back to the Keys I was no less determined to find out if I could get at the same species of fish that Grey had tackled. With the Long Key Fishing Club but a memory, I used the Cheeca Lodge in Islamorada as a headquarters for the quest. Just as the fishing club became the pinnacle of accommodations in those bygone days, the Cheeca offers the visiting angler every amenity today. A few days in this “fish camp,” which was frequented by former President George H.W. Bush, and most anglers will lose the urge to ever head home. Traveling south on U.S. 1 from Islamorada, I parked just short of the Indian Key Cut bridge. Walking out onto the bridge from which Zane Grey told of looking down into the blue-green waters of seven and a half decades earlier, I felt as though his ghost was looking over my shoulder, making sure I did not spoil his fishing hole.
…the bonefish showed me why they are known as grey ghosts of the flats. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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Barracuda have wicked teeth that mangle a popper after a few hook ups. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
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From there I drove down to the small town of Layton on Long Key itself. Just before reaching the, entrance to the recreation area, a historic marker at the roadside (but not longer there) described the history and location of the Long Key clubhouse. After reading the sign, I headed to the picnic area at the parking lot on the north end of the island. A short hike on the raised boardwalk brought me to the shore, where a shallow sand, grass and mud flat runs out for several hundred yards into the Atlantic. To the east of the picnic area, the flat borders on thick growths of mangroves standing in only a foot of water. Wading out about 50 yards, I began moving parallel to the shore along the mangroves, peering through polarized sunglasses for the telltale movement of bonefish on the flat. Shortly I spotted five or six small bones working halfway between my location and the shore and perhaps 30 yards ahead. Stalking closer, I stripped out line from the 9-foot, 9-weight set up, preparing to drop the Crazy Charlie fly beyond and ahead of the fish. Being a competent fly caster for freshwater trout, I saw no great difficulty in this maneuver, at least, until the fly line hit the water and the bonefish showed me why they are known as grey ghosts of the flats. I had never seen fish disappear so quickly! That pod proved to be the only bonefish I encountered and after a while I seriously considered giving up Zane Grey's second fishing location without having hooked anything. However, once I quit looking for bonefish, I realized how many barracuda there were hanging around the edge of the mangroves. Not being an overly proud angler, I decided to try for the fish that were present. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Adding a 6-inch wire leader to the end of the fly line, I tipped it with a blue-and-white Lefty's Deceiver. Sight-casting to the 'cuda, I could attract their attention with each cast. They would follow the streamer for long distances, but regardless of how fast I retrieved, it apparently was not fast enough to interest them. As the fly got near enough for the fish to sense my movements, they would break off and head back toward the mangroves. The only bump I got on the fly was from a small shark of about 2 1/2 feet in length. I had noticed a couple of these (being no marine biologist, I assumed they were blacktips due to the coloration of their fins) cruising on the flat, but since they showed no interest in me, I had ignored them. On one cast near one of the sharks, the fish came to the splash of the fly landing and nosed the Deceiver, but did not take it. After trying every streamer in my fly box, I finally took out a 2-inch Orvis Skipping Bug popper in blue and white. After several unsuccessful casts and twitch-and-rest retrieves, a poorly-placed cast dropped the popper back into the mangroves. In my haste to get it out to where I perceived the fish to be, I stripped in line so fast that the popper jerked across the top at a breakneck pace. Almost instantly the water erupted, and as soon as the fish felt the hook, an I8-inch barracuda took to the air with the popper buried in its jaw. After a couple of slashing runs and several more leaps, I released the fish. Quickly I found that a frantic retrieve across the surface with the big fly could not be resisted by the 'cudas. Needless to say, the hard foam body of the fly did not last through many of these attacks. Soon after switching to a replacement popper, I noticed that I now had three of the small sharks circling near me, but at a more frenzied pace. At first I figured that the runs of the hooked fish were attracting them, but I could see that they would act agitated and come closer even when I did not have a fish on. Finally I made the connection that the whine of the fly reel when I peel off line was attracting them. Just stripping line off the spool, apparently sent messages to their sensors that make the sharks speed up. 116 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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Since my wading near the mangroves was stirring up some mud, I decided to head for shore rather than share the flat with agitated sharks that would not be able to see very well in the muddy water. At that moment, a terrific splash sounded a few dozen yards down the shore back toward my entry point. I just caught sight of a triangular fin and the back of a fish chasing bait. That predator was at least as large as myself. I suddenly lost the desire to wade back to the picnic area. Cutting a judicious beeline to the mangroves, I chose to brave a few yards of mud and mangrove roots to reach the shoreline hiking trail for my return.
Smaller barracuda are seemingly everywhere on the flats and always ready for a fight. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs.
Though I may have failed to locate the bonefish that Zane Grey's writing had prompted me to seek, the barracuda of Long Key provided a most enjoyable and eye-opening angling adventure.
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T
he Zane Grey Long Key Lounge is located on the second floor of World Wide Sportsman in Islamorada. In 1997, Zane Grey Lounge and World Wide Sportsman opened bringing fishermen the total package in angling, dining, and entertaining. The lounge is a tribute to the Long Key Fishing Club, which the legendary Zane Grey founded in 1917 near Layton, Florida, in the Florida Keys. An original oil painting over the antique fireplace mantle is a color replication of a photo taken from a Zane Grey limited edition publication. It commemorates the largest marlin taken on rod and reel by Grey himself in Vairao, Tahiti. Next to the fireplace, an original cabinet that Zane Grey used
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to house his dental instruments in New York City, now displays photographs, gaffs, rods and books. All are original artifacts purchased from the Zane Grey Foundation and were used by the writer. The antique cigar humidor, to the right of the classic marble bar, was acquired from a dealer in Atlanta and restored in Springfield, Missouri. The back bar dates from the late 1800s and is Brunswick mahogany. Vintage taxidermy adorns the interior of the lounge, as well. For more about the lounge visit restaurants.basspro.com/ZaneGreyLounge/OurStory.aspx Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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End of the Line
D
riving north on the highway (there’s only one on the island) along the shore of Mangrove Cay, as you reach Moxey Town the shack appears on the right. Sitting on the water, the sign out front on the road says “Greene’s One Stop Conch Shack.” But, the bar and eatery is only known as Shine’s Conch Shack to locals and visitors alike. You also find another sign facing the sea that has that moniker on it.
Shine’s Con
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Shine’s Conch Shack on Mangrove Cay. Photo by Polly Dean.
nch Shack
, Bahamas
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End of the Line
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The more common name comes from fishing guide Shine Greene, who along with his family run the dining emporium. It is an open-air venue where you can sit at the bar, or at picnic tables in the yard. Either way you catch a nice breeze off the water. The décor is rustic and atmosphere as casual as it comes. Just wear your flip flops, or even barefoot it. If you’d like to be part of the décor, grab a marker from the bar and add your name and philosophy to the plywood wall. One exceptional drawing of a bonefish by Ian Davis of Yellow Dog Fly Fishing Adventures (yellowdogflyfishing.com) is on the inside of the bathroom wall! You can expect to find fresh seafood, cold Kalik beer and other drinks, but especially some of the best cracked conch and conch salad in the islands. Nothing is fancy here; the food is served on Styrofoam plates with plastic utensils. Spring 2019 l www.sosaltwaterflyfishing.com
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End of the Line
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Just how fresh is the conch? Upon our arrival at the dock after a day of fishing, a crew from the bar that included one of Shine’s brothers was sitting on the planks cleaning freshly harvested shellfish. The patron next to you at the bar may be a local commercial fisherman or sponger, but is just as likely to be a visitor from the U.S. or Europe. All are enjoying laidback island life and food. The biggest problem with Shine’s is you find it hard to tear yourself away. It’s an attraction on Mangrove Cay that you definitely need to have on your bucket list.
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Cleaning conch on the dock at Shine’s. Photo by Jimmy Jacobs
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h a nd cr a f t ed t o pe rf ec t i o n
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