South Philly Review 2-13-2014

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southphillyreview.com

VOTE

Top Chef on the Avenue The Bravo reality show winner’s Laurel is already a star in East Passyunk Crossing.

■ Cast your vote in the Readers’ Choice Awards to earn bragging rights for your favorite people and places and prizes for yourself. See page 30.

■ By Bill Chenevert R e v i e w S ta f f W r i t e r

C

hef Nick Elmi’s sitting at Table 17 when I walk in to Laurel, 1617 E. Passyunk Ave., the small room dimly, morning-lit, with stacks of invoices and bills surrounding him. There’s very little pomp to him — he calls me “boss” and offers me coffee. The winner of Bravo’s runaway reality competition show, Top Chef, he’s poised to become one of the biggest names in Philadelphia’s already impressive culinary cadre. And he’s doing it right here in South Philly. His restaurant’s recently won a coveted Open Table award (Diner’s Choice 2013), as well as praise from Philadelphia Magazine, and perhaps even more important to him than the Top Chef title, three bells from Craig LaBan. Needless to say, Laurel is booked solid. “After this weekend, we are at 11 weeks, almost three months out,” Elmi confirmed. “We didn’t see that coming.” His BYO focuses on French and American food. The four-course menu is small, but clearly not short on flavor and presentation. “I always have a tendency to lean towards seafood,” he admitted. “I think it’s more delicate. I have a delicate hand when it comes to food.” And claim And claims throughout the show’s 11th season t w inconsistent and under-seasoned that he was don’t really bother him because it’s a game In Hawaii and he won. for the grand finale “I think I had a pretty polarizing episode of “Top Chef” Season se season, and it’s funny to see people’s 11, Laurel chef/owner Nick Elmi r reaction to what is essentially a televireceived a vote of confidence s sion show,” he said with a laugh. “And from his wife, Kristen, before if you were the ones judging me on the final elimination challenge. Tw Twitter,” he says of the criticisms from Photo Provided by aud audiences, “I’d probably be in trouble.” D av i d M o i r / B r av o And with a $125,000 cash prize and a feature in Food & Wine Magazine, yes, the

NO RESERVATIONS

■ Chef and owner Francesco Parmisciano loves letting patrons acquire a taste of the Old World with his Gnocchi di Ricotta at East Passyunk Crossing’s Da Vinci Ristorante. See page 26.

SPORTS

■ An East Passyunk Crossing basketball team will look for more glory following a flawless regular season.

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Vol. 67 NO. 7 ■ February 13, 2014

Happy s ’ e n i t n e l a V D ay

See TOP CHEF page 10 >>

Building ‘Iron’ bridges

A celebrity chef stopped by an East Passyunk Crossing school Monday to spread his foundation’s message geared toward struggling immigrant learners.

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