GOLD IS THE NEW BLACK We l c o m e t o t h e G i l d e d A g e
JOHN SING ER SARG ENT & CHIC AGO’ S G ILDED AG E July 1–September 30 Lead individual sponsorship is provided by Ann and Samuel M. Mencoff. Lead foundation support is generously contributed by The Chauncey and Marion Deering McCormick Family Foundation. Major support is provided by the Shure Charitable Trust. Additional funding is contributed by Patricia Hyde, The Suzanne and Wesley M. Dixon Exhibition Fund, and an anonymous donor. Annual support for Art Institute exhibitions is provided by the Exhibitions Trust: an anonymous donor; Neil Bluhm and the Bluhm Family Charitable Foundation; Jay Franke and David Herro; Kenneth Griffin; Caryn and King Harris, The Harris Family Foundation; Robert M. and Diane v.S. Levy; Ann and Samuel M. Mencoff; Sylvia Neil and Dan Fischel; Anne and Chris Reyes; and the Earl and Brenda Shapiro Foundation.
Lead Corporate Sponsors:
John Singer Sargent. La Carmencita (detail), 1890. Musée d’Orsay, Paris. © RMN (Musée d’Orsay) / Gérard Blot.
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WELCOME
SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY The South Side Weekly is an independent nonprofit newsprint magazine written for and about neighborhoods on the South Side of Chicago. We publish in-depth coverage of the arts and issues of public interest alongside oral histories, poetry, fiction, interviews, and artwork from local photographers and illustrators. The South Side Weekly is dedicated to supporting cultural and civic engagement on the South Side and to providing educational opportunities for developing journalists, writers, and artists. Volume 6, Issue 1 Editor-in-Chief Adam Przybyl Managing Editors Bridget Newsham, Sam Stecklow Senior Editors Julia Aizuss, Christian Belanger, Mari Cohen, Hafsa Razi, Olivia Stovicek Politics Editor Ellen Mayer Education Editor Rachel Kim Music Editor Christopher Good Stage & Screen Editor Nicole Bond Visual Arts Editor Rod Sawyer Food & Land Editor Emeline Posner Contributing Editors Mira Chauhan, Elaine Chen, Bea Malsky, Amy Qin, Rachel Schastok Data Editor Jasmine Mithani Radio Exec. Producer Erisa Apantaku Radio Editor Sam Larsen Radio Hosts Olivia Obineme Social Media Editors Bridget Newsham, Sam Stecklow Visuals Editor Ellen Hao Deputy Visuals Editor Kahari Black, Ellie Mejía, Lizzie Smith Photography Editor Jason Schumer Staff Writers: Leah von Essen, Ashvini Kartik-Narayan, Kiran Misra, Anne Li Staff Radio Producer: Bridget Vaughn Fact Checkers: Abigail Bazin, Sam Joyce, Bridget Newsham, Adam Przybyl, Hafsa Razi, Sam Stecklow, Tammy Xu Staff Photographers: milo bosh, Biran Misra, Jason Schumer Staff Illustrators: Siena Fite, Natalie Gonzalez, Katherine Hill, Courtney Kendrick, Kamari Robertson Webmaster: Pat Sier Director of Operations: Jason Schumer The Weekly is produced by an all-volunteer editorial staff and seeks contributions from across the city. We distribute each Wednesday in the fall, winter, and spring. Over the summer we publish every other week. Send submissions, story ideas, comments, or questions to editor@southsideweekly.com or mail to: South Side Weekly 6100 S. Blackstone Ave. Chicago, IL 60637 For advertising inquiries, contact: (773) 234-5388 or advertising@southsideweekly.com
L
ast month, Chicago magazine published its annual Best of Chicago issue, purporting to list the city’s top destinations in categories ranging from “culture and fun” to “shopping and style.” Of the fifty-seven places chosen, only four—and none of the restaurants—were located on the South Side. Of course, this is not unusual: we’re used to seeing the South Side left out of the “best” lists produced by mainstream publications, from the infamous 2015 Chicagoist list of the city’s best tacos with no restaurants in Pilsen or Little Village, to an Eater list of the twenty best seafood restaurants, published just last week, highlighting establishments mostly clustered on the North Side. Even if we’re jaded, it’s still infuriating to continually see an entire swath of the city so completely dismissed. And this isn’t just about petty crosstown rivalries. Underlying the assumption there's nowhere worth hanging out on the South Side is a decades-old journalistic approach that sees most of Chicago as nothing more than a poverty mill or battleground, a place ripe for sentimentalism and scolding but never appreciation. At the same time, however, South Side residents know that we don’t need to rely on institutions like Chicago to affirm the existence of the sacred spaces in our backyards. The giant quesadillas at Machetes Big Quesadillas in Archer Heights will be a marvel regardless. Over in Auburn Gresham, every seat in Cookie’s Cocktail Lounge was filled for the weekly Snake’s Brunch before anyone wrote about it. And the point of our annual Best of the South Side issue is not to wave it in the face of the North Siders who have never bothered to explore much of the city—no, we’ve collected this assortment of bests to celebrate the South Side gems we love and to pay homage to the sites that structure our everyday lives. So take this opportunity to revisit that storied spot in your neighborhood or try something new across town. Debate with your friends about which burger and
which taco is the best. Relax in one of the many parks described in these pages (whether you’re into sculpture, or woods, or fishing, we’ve got something for you). The content in this issue—our sixth annual Best of the South Side—is only here because of an approach to journalism that seeks to include as many voices as possible, that asks you to tell us what you like about your neighborhood in your own words. And if we didn’t include your “best,” be sure to let us know—or join us next September, when we’ll do it all again.
Cover art and table of contents by Luis Colindres SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 5
ARCHER HEIGHTS & BRIGHTON PARK DIANA DELGADO
LEO WILLIAMS
BEST QUESADILLA THE SIZE OF A MACHETE
Machetes Big Quesadillas 6 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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Most folks do not think of knives when they think of large, cheesy quesadillas. But unbeknownst to many Chicago eaters, “Machete” is the name of the behemoth two-foot quesadilla that originated in Mexico City, whose shape resembles the broad knives by the same name. Lucky for us, this sizable dish is available in Archer Heights—though four inches shorter than the standard—at Machetes Big Quesadillas. Try not to let the extensive menu stump you into ordering a classic cheese quesadilla—venture out and try all you can here, and you’ll discover rich flavors usually found only in a grandma’s cooking. A vegetarian used to only having one option will find themself especially satisfied by the meatless fillings: queso, nopales, champiñones, huitlacoche, rajas poblanas, and the crown jewel, flor de calabaza. But why choose just one? Machetes knows a dilemma when it creates one, which is why you’ll be getting all six options in the Machete Champion, a quesadilla that allows for up to ten fillings. If the Champion sounds a little extreme for you and your stomach, rest easy—the Machete JR and Machete Baby were made for you. On just such an occasion, I ordered three four-inch Machete Babies filled with huitlacoche, flor de calabaza, and cochinita pibil, respectively. Next: a trip to the well-stocked condiments bar where you’ll find multiple salsas, crema, onion, cilantro, and cabbage. My machetes appropriately garnished, I sank my teeth into the huitlacoche. Tender, hearty, and slippery, this corn fungus blends well with melted cheese enveloping it. Flor de calabaza (squash blossom), is by far the most unique flavor, simultaneously rich and delicate, with hints of zucchini, citrus, garlic, and hominy. Carnivores, I encourage you to try the cochinita pibil, a Yucatecan, slow-roasted, specially-seasoned pork filling. Every flavor compound of the shredded meat melts in your mouth—the cheese only helps. If you’re here between 9am and 11:30am you can try the restaurant’s breakfast machetes—a waitress offered me a small sample with her choice of filling: huevos con chorizo. I read the offer as a sly signal, or even a challenge, telling me
ARCHER HEIGHTS & BRIGHTON PARK that whether you eat here during the morning or night shift, the experience will be the same: a maelstrom in food form. Machetes Big Quesadillas is an institution where every item on the menu is just as palatable as the next, leaving you wondering who in fact is the star of the show. (Leo Williams) Machetes Big Quesadillas, 4888 S. Archer Ave. Sunday–Thursday, 9am–9pm; Friday– Saturday, 9am–10pm. (773) 321-9143. 4636 S. Cicero Ave. Sunday–Thursday, 9am–9pm; Friday–Saturday, 9am–9:30pm. (773) 306-1923. www.facebook.com/MachetesBigQuesadillas/
BEST HOUSE OF EUROPEAN HIGHLANDERS Polish Highlanders Alliance of North America
BEST PIEROGI WITH YOUR BEER
ADAM PRZYBYL
Kazmierzanka Lounge, aka “Mama’s House”
Let me tell you about my night at Kazmierzanka Lounge. First of all, blink and you’ll miss the bar; it’s at the southeast corner of S. Lawndale and Archer, with no signage to announce its presence aside from a large Budweiser sign jutting out and an Okocim label. I came in on a lazy Sunday night and was immediately greeted by Maria, the owner and bartender, and loud mariachi music from the jukebox. Just my luck: I had walked in on somebody’s birthday party and the whole bar area was outfitted with signs, balloons, and colorful lights. Within a few minutes, friends of the birthday man (who had disappeared) took a break from their pool game and came over to introduce themselves, welcome me to the bar, praise Maria’s hospitality, and soon after order everybody a round of shots. It was late but I asked Maria if there was food and she gave me three options of Polish pierogi. I went for the “Russian” variety with potato and cheese and Maria went into the back kitchen to prepare them herself. The patrons treated me like I was a regular. One explained that the music switched genres every night, depending on who was there, and went on to hand everyone an Almond Joy. Maria soon came back with twelve pierogi, topped with sautéed onions, crispy bacon, and a dollop of sour cream. Maybe it was the beer and shot of tequila, but they were some of the best pierogi I’ve ever had. Maria’s been the owner for twenty years; she named the bar after the Polish town of Kazimierza Wielka, where she grew up, though the man who ordered the shots insisted that the bar was known as “Mama’s House” because of the hospitality and great cooking. I left the bar that night with a business card (“Wherever you are, whatever you need…call me,” he had said), a couple new friends, and several invitations to come back. There’s no guarantee every night will be quite like this, but isn’t it worth a try? (Adam Przybyl) Kazmierzanka Lounge, 4785 S. Archer Ave. Sunday–Friday, 3pm–2am, Saturday 3pm–3am. Card and cash accepted. (773) 890-9002.
Step inside the vaulted entrance, past the intricately chiseled wooden door, and travel back in time and across an ocean. Originating from the hills and mountains in the south of Poland, górale, or highlanders, are known for their distinctive colorful clothing, dances, food, and a rick folkloric tradition. Though the building itself has only been here for around thirty-five years, the organization will be celebrating its 90th anniversary next year. The “alliance” is often joined by other “circles” of górale, of which there are some sixty groups from across the country, during the various parties and celebrations thrown throughout the year. The house, built in the traditional góral style, has a beautifully furnished restaurant serving up Polish classics like pork schnitzel and stuffed cabbage, a bar, and a banquet hall, where it organizes performances from eighteen dance troupes and several musical groups. At the top is the organization’s radio station, called Radio ZPPA at WPNA 1490 AM, which has been in existence for over thirty years. Don’t worry—it’s not just for Poles. The group is open about inviting everybody to host their own parties or to come to the Polish ones and learn about góral traditions. (Adam Przybyl) Dom Podhalan (House Under the Mountain Meadows) of the Polish Highlanders Alliance, 4808 S. Archer Ave. Wednesday–Friday, noon-8:30pm; Saturday–Sunday 11am–8:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday. (773) 523-7632. zppa.org
BEST STREET MURAL GALLERY Crawford Steel Company Graffiti Stretching for two to three blocks, the exterior walls of the Crawford Steel Company likely contain the most murals in one condensed area in all of Chicago. Run by artist OBE of the CMK graffiti crew, the company allows artists to practice letters, characters, and large-scale productions legally. The graffiti wraps around all of the building’s sides. The mural is important and well-known enough that Meeting of the Styles (MOS), an international association of graffiti artists, held an event the weekend of September 8 featuring artists from around the city, as well as other states and countries. This was the fourteenth edition of MOS in Chicago and many people came out to observe various murals be completed over the course of anywhere from two days to just a few hours. A meet and greet gallery show was held on September 7 at Camp/Us Gallery in Logan Square that allowed artists to meet and showcase their artwork. There are various paint events held here year-round, and beginner artists wishing to hone their craft can come paint on the huts in the back. (Roderick Sawyer) Crawford Steel Company, 3141 W. 36th Pl. (773) 376-6969. SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 7
ASHBURN & AUBURN GRESHAM Compiled by Mari Cohen & Sam Stecklow J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
BEST PILE OF ROCKS
BEST HOMEMADE SALSA
From far away, the stack of gleaming granite boulders is a curiosity, a striking sculpture distinguishing square-shaped Renaissance Park on 79th Street from other urban parks. Close up, you’ll find the boulders are inscribed with names of Black historical figures who excelled in arts, sports, or activism, including local greats Gwendolyn Brooks, Muddy Waters, Jean Baptiste du Sable, and Harold Washington. The boulders are one part of a larger sculptural fountain: water flows down a granite column and weaves through rivulets set into the pavement to the stack of boulders feet away. The Chicago Park District commissioned local sculptor Jerzy Kenar to design the fountain when it created the park in early 2001. The park district’s website says the fountain “symbolizes the strength and energy of the residents of the surrounding neighborhood as well as the African American community in general” and the water represents “a spring of positive change.” The park also includes a small garden, and benches around the park make serene spots for weekend relaxing. (Mari Cohen)
While the food sampled on a recent visit (the cook-recommended steak taco) was delicious, the main attraction is the delectable salsa verde—a thick, homemade, jalapeño-based sauce that can only serve to improve any food it’s added to. I look forward to multiple returns to Antojitos Durango (literally, “little cravings” from the Mexican state of Durango) to sample the rest of the menu and smother it in as much of the salsa verde as is acceptable. (Sam Stecklow)
Renaissance Park Sculpture
Renaissance Park, 1300 W. 79th St. Open daily, 6am—11pm. (312) 747-6562.
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Antojitos Durango
Antojitos Durango. 3412 W. 79th St. Monday–Friday, 9am-8pm; Saturday and Sunday, 8am–7pm. (773) 306-1366. antojitosdurango.com
ASHBURN & AUBURN GRESHAM
BEST BATTER Eat and Run
It is not certain that Eat and Run is the best name for Auburn Gresham’s only nonprofit chicken joint. After all, a large fan stands in the doorway between its snug, scripture-filled waiting area and the more expansive seating area in back, sending out a welcome breeze but also blocking access to the back room. What is certain is that, all mixed seating messages besides, Eat and Run has very good fried chicken. Eat and Run is a ministry of Gilgal, an international organization with offices in South Africa, North Carolina and Evergreen Park which has opened several nonprofit chicken joints, all by the same name, on the South Side. Beyond fried chicken, this Eat and Run sells soul food, pasta, jerk wings, and other dishes beyond the usual purview of a house of chicken. But these offerings are merely distractions from the chicken—or so said a customer who came in while I was awaiting my order of catfish nuggets and fried cauliflower. He upped the ante and said that Eat and Run has the best chicken in all of Chicago. I apologized for my rookie mistake, and, the next day, I went back and ordered chicken. He was right. At least, the fried catfish was good, and so was the fried cauliflower, but the half-dark special was outstanding, the batter crisp and thick, very clearly fried in a fresh batch of oil (although, like a wayward cousin of Harold’s, Eat and Run served it up with a slice of whole wheat bread). I did not negotiate the back room, so instead of eating and running, I ran to nearby Foster Park and ate, licking my greasy fingers in the shade of a tree. (Emeline Posner) Eat and Run, 1733 W. 87th St. Tuesday–Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday and Saturday, 10:30am–10pm; Sunday, 11am–7pm; Monday, noon–8pm. $4–$12. (773) 429-1812. eatandrunchicken.com
J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
BEST PUNCH WITH A SIDE OF BRUNCH Snake’s Brunch at Cookie’s Cocktail Lounge Cookie’s cocktails would be “best”-worthy enough on their own. I ordered a pear cocktail after being enticed by its glittering image on a poster above the bar; the mix of pear Grey Goose, St-Germain, sour and apple juice was smooth and refreshing. But the swanky bar has something else to offer, too: free brunch, every Saturday starting at 11am, so long as you order two (very affordable) cocktails. The menu varies, but this past Saturday it included rice, eggs, potatoes, jerk chicken, and sausage, cooked by Chef Shon. Every seat in the bar was taken by laughing, talking, brunching groups as eighties hits like “Freaks Come Out at Night” lit up the speakers. If day drinking isn’t your style, Cookie’s regularly hosts other events, like Wednesday game nights. (Mari Cohen) Cookie’s Cocktail Lounge, 1024 W. 79th St. Saturdays, starting at 11am. Brunch cocktails start at $5; food is free if you buy two drinks. $20 credit card minimum. (773) 783-6700. facebook. com/CookiesCocktailLounge
EMELINE POSNER
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BACK OF THE YARDS
Compiled by Emeline Posner TIFFANY TAN
BEST LIBRARY CHECK-OUT ITEM Fishing Poles at Sherman Park Library Built in 1905, with the intention of bringing social services and green space to what was, back then, a crowded immigrant neighborhood, Sherman Park now stands as an almost forgotten oasis. Situated between 52nd Street and Garfield Boulevard, Racine and Loomis, this refuge from the hustle and bustle of city life is perched on the boundary between Back of the Yards and Englewood. The history of Sherman Park is a who’s who of Chicago royalty. The park is named for John B. Sherman, a founder of the Union Stock Yards, from which Back of the Yards gets its name. (The stockyard gates still stand just two miles north of Sherman Park.) The fieldhouse at the north end of the park was designed by Daniel H. Burnham, the visionary architect who shaped much of Chicago’s skyline, and the park itself was designed by the Olmsted brothers, sons of Frederick Law Olmsted, who along with Burnham brought the 1893 World’s Columbian Exhibition to life. The jewel of Sherman Park is undeniably the annular lagoon that separates the outer walkways from an interior island of ballfields and soccer pitches. Tree-lined and slow rolling, this central water feature evokes bucolic stream more than urban pond. There is, however, more to the lagoon than meets the eye. “A lot of people don’t know what prizes are in this water,” one local tells me. Rod in hand, and smile on his face, this man is after just such a prize: catfish. 10 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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“Monsters!” the fisherman exclaims. “If you find where those catfish are, you’ll have a great time catching them,” he grins, holding his arms wide. “I’ve seen ones bigger than six pounds come out of here,” The Illinois Department of Natural Resources stocks the lagoon with catfish and bluegills during the summer months, but carp, crappie, and the occasional bass are also present. To catch a fish, first you’ll need a rod. Luckily, the Sherman Park Library, located in the park’s southeast corner, will rent you one for free. Since 1997, the “Access to Fishing” program, run by the Urban Fishing Project, has provided rods and reels to a variety of locations across Illinois, including the Sherman Park Library. All you need to rent a rod is an adult library card. The rental includes a rod, extra hooks, bobber, and synthetic bait. Next time you need a break from the concrete jungle, grab a rod, cast your line, and wait. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to land a monster yourself. (Ian Hodgson) Sherman Park Library, 5440 S. Racine Ave. Monday and Wednesday, noon–8pm; Tuesday and Thursday, 10am–6pm; Friday and Saturday, 9am–5pm; closed Sunday. (312) 7470477.
BACK OF THE YARDS
BEST QUICK QUESADILLA Taqueria La Ciudad
HANNA GREGOR
BEST SUMMER IN A CUP
Taqueria La Ciudad, 5005 S. Ashland Ave. Monday–Saturday, 9:30am–6pm. $5–$10. (773) 416-9861.
BEST HARVEST FESTIVAL
50th and Ashland Elote Stand There’s something about digging into a good elote and its mesmerizing combination of salty, creamy, and spicy flavors that takes you back to the middle of summer. On the corner of 50th and Ashland, next to an empty lot and a furniture store, sits a modest yellow stand outfitted with corn, mangos, chicharrones de harina, and an assortment of toppings. Despite the other options, the star is clearly the corn—the stand has “Elote” and “Corn” written in large letters on the sides—and, boy, does this corn shine. For just $2.50 you can treat yourself to a cup coated with a generous helping of mayo, butter, and cotija, all topped with ground cayenne. One bite and it’s all golden skies, warm air, children laughing, and chin-dripping-savorevery-last-bite goodness. Disappointment only comes when you reach the bottom of the cup and realize you don’t have any more cash on you. (Octavia Shaw) 50th St. and Ashland Ave.
There are many menus, each bearing many worthwhile options, posted at the counter at Taqueria La Ciudad, a Mexican restaurant on the corner of 50th and Ashland. But if you ask around, or if you ask Irene, who is often behind the counter, you’ll know that their quesadillas are the strongest pull. The selections are fairly standard— you can choose between quesadillas with flor de calabaza (squash blossoms), hongo (mushroom), huitlacoche (a fungus that grows on corn cobs), nopales (cactus), and meat options like chicken and al pastor—but the homemade blue corn tortillas, soft and thick, set the restaurant apart from the rest. Most customers take them to go, but if you have a couple minutes to spare, the service is friendly, the restaurant is warm and comfortably cluttered, and a pitcher of the homemade tamarind juice hits the spot. (Emeline Posner)
Star Farm
HANNA GREGOR
“Does anyone want this?” a kid asked, waving a bulbous yellow carrot in the air. It was surely the largest carrot of the harvest at Star Farm, where some thirty community members and gardeners gathered last Friday night to celebrate the end of the growing season. Past rows of corn, kale, watermelons, and more, kids were eagerly pulling up fistfuls of rainbow carrots by the greens as adults mulled about, chatting and dancing. This particular carrot was a hard sell—maybe more raw carrot for snacking than anyone had bargained for on a Friday evening—but the boy flitted off to another group and, after some negotiating, found the carrot a home. For two years now, Stephanie Dunn has been growing and harvesting at Star Farm, a scattered-site farm and community garden along New City’s 51st Street corridor. Summer-long, Dunn sells shares of vegetables through a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program and tables at farmers markets in Woodlawn and Back of the Yards. But she also runs a children’s play garden, an incubator, and a training program for kids and adults with developmental disabilities. She runs the farm as an open community space, thinking of the sites as “corner lots”—a play on the concept of corner stores—where residents can congregate, hang out, barbeque, and harvest a couple of vegetables, if they’d like. The second-ever harvest festival was joyful, filled with arts-and-crafts and music, laughing, dancing, chatting, toddlers’ babbling. Kids darted in between rows of vegetables as the day faded into evening. There is never a quiet moment at the farm. Even at night, Dunn told one of the younger kids, she wonders whether the plants aren’t up to something. (Emeline Posner) Star Farm, 5030 S. Throop St. (312) 768-9949. starfarmchicago.org
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BEVERLY & MORGAN PARK
Compiled by Sam Stecklow ZACHARY JESSE
BEST RESALE SHOP
BEST USE OF GRILLED CHEESE
Beverly Hills Marketplace
Manzo’s Burger
The first thing you notice when you enter Beverly Hills Marketplace, maybe just after getting off the Metra at 95th Street or venturing across the street from Jimmy Jamm Sweet Potato Pies, is the impeccable sense of design the interior is blessed with. Many antique and resale stores are cluttered, musty, and difficult to navigate; Beverly Hills Marketplace, owned for five years by sisters Bonita Jefferson and Robbie Perez, is instead itself a work of art, organized with a loving sense of purpose that’s immediately apparent to any new customer. From furniture to tchotchkes to a truly impressive array of Winnie the Pooh memorabilia, the lovingly collected items call out to you from every corner of the shop. Jefferson sources much of them herself from estate sales and through travels, but also rents out space to other vendors, for “people who want to be entrepreneurs themselves” but can’t afford the overhead, she told the Weekly. The shop also functions as a space for people to meet and relax, Jefferson said: “It doesn’t always have to be in a bar scene.” It will also be participating in the upcoming Beverly Arts Walk on September 29, which is as good a reason to explore Beverly and fall in love with the Marketplace as any. (Sam Stecklow) Beverly Hills Marketplace. 1809 W. 95th St. Wednesday–Saturday, noon–7pm; other hours by appointment. (773) 701-6674. facebook.com/bhmarketplace
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Humberto Manzo, a veteran of trendy West Loop and River North kitchens, began making burgers by taking trimmings from pricey cuts of meat used for expensive dishes. The Clearing resident received such rave reviews that he decided to open his own burger joint, settling on a 111th Street storefront with cheaper rent so as to better spend money on ingredients. Based on the quality of his burgers, it was a wise choice. The most famous is the Hangover Burger: two beef patties topped with ham, bacon, caramelized onions, and a fried egg, stuffed between two individual grilled cheese sandwiches used as the bun. Regardless of whether you’re hungover or not, it will be the best thing you eat all day. It’s also so substantial it may be the only thing you eat all day. (Sam Stecklow) Manzo’s Burger. 2353 W. 111th St. Monday–Saturday, 11am–9pm; closed Sunday. (773) 779-5945. manzosburger.com
BEVERLY
BEST NEW WAY TO GET AROUND THE CITY SOUTH OF 79TH STREET
Dockless Bikeshare
ZACHARY JESSE
In a handful of cities around the country—Seattle, Washington, D.C., the Bay Area—the arrival of dockless bikeshare has been met mostly with eye rolls and annoyance at another trendy new tech toy for yuppies, cluttering downtown sidewalks and filling the streets with young people on brightly-colored bikes. In Chicago, for one reason or another, City Hall instead decided to preemptively regulate the use of the bikes, which can be left anywhere suitable within the boundary zone: essentially the entire Far South Side South of 79th Street and west of the Skyway. The city capped the number of bikes per bikeshare provider and later introduced a requirement that the bikes be able to “lock to” a bike rack, instead of simply lock in place, which has already lead to the departure of one company. Many have theorized that this strategy, despite Mayor Rahm Emanuel’s gestures toward “bike equity” with the program (itself co-opted from bike advocate Olatunji Oboi Reed), is instead to prevent the user base of Divvy, the city-sponsored docked bikeshare system, from being cannibalized by only allowing the dockless bikes in a part of the city Divvy has not yet been extended to. It’s a reasonable fear; most of the dockless bikes are far preferable to the Divvy-branded ones, which are heavy, clunky, and frustratingly slow. Of the three dockless operators with permits in the city, Jump, owned by Uber, blows Divvy out of the water. Its bright-red bikes, featuring sturdy U-locks, come with “electric pedal assist,” a small electric motor that kicks in after a pedal push or two—terrible for exercise but great to traverse the city quickly, and very fun. The LimeBikes (guess what color they are) also feature pedal assist, and are not unpleasant to ride; however, Lime’s pricing structure is also the worst offered—it’s a dollar to unlock, plus fifteen cents per minute. Pace, the third system, which stocks the most bikes, does not have pedal assist, and the white bikes are small, heavy, and difficult to ride and lock. (The Forest Preserves also offers its own non-pedal-assisted-system, Hopr, within the larger system boundaries for use in its Dan Ryan Woods and Eggers Grove Forest Preserve. It ranks between LimeBike and Pace.) Divvy’s expansion on much of the South and West Side has been anemic at best, and per data obtained by Reader transportation columnist John Greenfield, it’s not for lack of demand: there have been thousands of rides with each of the providers since the launch of the pilot program. Which brings up another issue: in keeping with Chicago’s national reputation among bikers as being slow to provide bike-friendly infrastructure, there are very few bike lanes in the boundary area for the pilot dockless bike program. This raises the question of whether it’s a good idea to encourage thousands of potentially new bikers onto the roads and sidewalks. Alderman Matt O’Shea, who memorably said in 2012 he would not allow any bike lanes in the 19th Ward (and has kept good on his word), is the city’s biggest booster of dockless bikeshare, despite the fact that the thought of biking on busy arterials within the ward, like Western Avenue or 95th Street, is terrifying. O’Shea didn’t respond to a request for comment, nor did any of the other aldermen whose wards intersect with the pilot program boundary area—with the exception of 9th Ward Alderman Anthony Beale. Through a spokesperson, the Transportation Committee chairman stressed that he’d prefer that Divvy be expanded further into the Far South Side, and that Beale—who is a cyclist—has not had a chance to try out the dockless system, largely because the companies haven’t reached out to him. (He is scheduled to try out an electric scooter, from Bird, which also hopes to launch in the city soon.) Still, one can be hopeful for the future of the program, if only because of how easy and enjoyable it makes getting around the Far South Side, parts of which can easily be described as transit deserts. How else could someone without a driver's license, like myself, expect to cheaply and easily get from Morgan Park to Calumet Park in about twenty-five minutes? (Sam Stecklow) Dockless bikeshare. Between 79th Street, the western and southern boundaries of the city, the Chicago Skyway, and the state line with Indiana. Pricing varies between providers.
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join us!
Join us!
caribbean flavors and flair Mondays / September 10, 17, 24
live latin jazzin’ Wednesdays / September 5, 12, 19, 26 October 3, 10
5 to 9 p.m. Admission is FREE to Illinois residents and
includes all exhibits, including the new special exhibit, Underwater Beauty. Food and beverage are available for purchase.
sheddaquarium.org/afterhours
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CHINATOWN
house party Thursdays / September 6, 20, 27
BRIDGEPORT Compiled by April Lane
HANNA GREGOR
Jamie Trecker is the station manager of WLPN-LP 105.5 FM Lumpen Radio and the Operations Director of the Co-Prosperity Sphere.
L
et’s get this out of the way: I’m not a native Chicagoan. I wasn’t even raised in the USA. I’ve also lived a lot of places, because in my previous career as a reporter and network executive, I had to travel to anywhere and everywhere for soccer games. Some of those places are really nice, too: New York and London are great; it’s hard to beat the food and warmth of Paris or Manchester. But there is only one place that is “home” to me, and while it sounds strange for a transplant to say this, home for me is Bridgeport. I’ve lived here and owned a home here since the late 1990s, right across from Holden Elementary School. It wasn’t always a quiet block: the day I moved in a couple high school girls were taking turns whacking the heck out of each other in the alley behind my house with pieces of rebar. A few months later, a poor kid got shot in front of the field house. There were worse days before that as well: it’s hard not to talk about Bridgeport without acknowledging its horrible, racist past. This was the first neighborhood I ever lived in where someone called me “kike” because of the mezuzah on my door. This may sound bizarre, but I never lost faith in the neighborhood. Why? Well, I know all my neighbors, first and last names. People wave to me every day on the street here. I have rarely had to lock my door, or
my car. One day I came home and my neighbors’ kids were playing pinball in my downstairs flat. They had brought me a sandwich. Any time I went out of town for more than a few days I’d get a call from someone on the block, assuring me that my mail was safe and that my walks were swept. I personally enjoyed shoveling the walks outside my two elderly neighbors; one of them made some mean tamales at Christmas. The neighborhood has changed in my decades here. My neighbors used to be fairly monochromatic; today, Bridgeport is one of the most diverse wards in the city. My immediate neighbors include people from China, Mexico, England, the Dominican Republic, the West Indies and Texas, which I’m pretty sure is its own thing. And while people in Bridgeport like to complain, we’re actually pretty spoiled for food now too. 2 am ramen? Korean-Polish fusion? One-of-a-kind tacos? Why go to the North Side, which has all those awful Cub fans? (That’s another thing: I must point out we won the World Series this century, well before those guys in Wrigleyville. We’ll be back pretty soon, too.) I have a pretty nice routine here. Most days you’ll find me at Bridgeport’s only FM radio station. And I get to see most of my neighbors at night at the Co-Prosperity Sphere, an arts space and incubator that I help manage. You might see my cat, Dash, in the window if you stop by. At the moment, most of my time is spent bordered by Archer to the north and 35th to the south. And that’s just fine by me. Bridgeport’s a pretty good place to call home.
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BRIDGEPORT
BEST PLACE TO FEED YOUR INNER ARTIST
Wet Paint Chicago When it comes to painting recreationally, some people focus on the end result while others relish in the artistic process. At Wet Paint Chicago, you’re able to allow your paintbrush and creativity guide your work of art. Sessions (between twenty-five and and thirty-five dollars each) are led by an instructor, but don’t feel any pressure to follow along. The classes are free-flowing and perfect for both beginners and advanced painters. Oh, and the best part? It’s BYOB. So grab your favorite drink and a friend (or come alone and make a new friend there) and Wet Paint will supply everything else you need for a perfect evening of art and fun (wine glasses, art supplies, aprons, etc.). It’s never too late to awaken your inner artist. (April Lane)
BEST RESTAURANT WITH ITS OWN GRAFFITI WALL
HANNA GREGOR
Wet Paint Chicago, 1200 W. 35th St. Tuesday–Friday, 7pm–10pm; Saturday, 1pm– 3:30pm and 7pm–10pm. $25-$35. (773) 916-6174. wetpaintchicago.com
Kimski
There’s only one word to describe Kimski: original. Though it’s a small counter service restaurant located inside of Maria’s Packaged Goods and Community Bar, the sweet and savory flavors of the Korean-Polish style cuisine have been enjoyed by restaurant goers throughout Chicagoland. Helmed by Chef Won Kim, Kimski’s cuisine brings together the best of Korean and Polish flavors in a unique blend of comfort food. The eclectic menu features dishes like the Kimski Poutine with fries drenched in gravy and Wisconsin cheese curds and the Princess Pierogies are handmade and stuffed with potatoes cheese and topped with parsley and chives. But if not just for the food, there’s another element of the restaurant that invites your attention. There’s an ever-changing graffiti wall, regularly redone by Chef Kim together with other local artists. So during your next visit, when you’ve finished your Maria’s Standard—a Polish sausage topped with soju mustard, scallions, and sesame seeds—head back and take a look at what new artwork is decorating the restaurant’s wall. (April Lane) Kimski, 954-960 W. 31st St. Tuesday–Saturday, 5pm–11pm; Sunday, noon–9pm, kimskichicago.com
BEST BYO-VINYL RESTAURANT
Duck Inn
Ever since it opened in 2015, the Duck Inn has been confusing Chicago food critics trying to pin it down as either a chic destination among “the Bridgeport warehouses” (it’s on a residential street) or a “diamond in the rough” in an otherwise unremarkable area (tell that to the fry cooks at the impeccable Hamburger Heaven on Archer). Some degree of forgiveness is due: restaurants that feature a sixty-five dollar roasted duck and cheese curds on the same menu are hard to classify. Though the prices muddle the restaurant’s stated philosophy of creating “working class fine-dining,” the Duck Inn manages to hint at the informality of the White Sox bars that lie just south while providing its Michelin-guided customers with the accoutrements they expect from a fancy restaurant. Perhaps it’s because of these misgivings that the staff reaches out in small ways to patrons who want a more connected dining experience, among them a bring-your-own vinyl program they’ve instituted on Sundays. A fancy jukebox, maybe. And if your favorite record doesn’t fit the ambience of this nationally renowned restaurant? No big deal. “People bring in really loud heavy metal records,” testified a member of the waitstaff. “We still play them.” (Will Cabaniss) The Duck Inn, 2701 S. Eleanor St. Tuesday–Thursday, 5pm–midnight; Friday, 5pm–1am; Saturday, noon–1am; Sunday, 10am–1am; closed Monday. (312) 724-8811. Bring your own vinyl on Sundays, anytime. 16 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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BEST TACO PORCH Taqueria Mi Lindo Mexico Taqueria Mi Lindo Mexico has the look and feel of a highway rest stop and for a good reason: it was a grocery store until its homemade food increased in popularity. Operated and owned in part by the meat distributor next door, the prices are nearly unbeatable: three dollars for two carnitas or chicken tacos, for example, with specials every day. It’s a popular stop for truck drivers, construction workers and the very occasional White Sox game attendee. But the feature that makes Mi Lindo a Bridgeport-Canaryville essential is its new shaded porch out front that provides a view of the vacant lot across Pershing and a never-ending parade of industrial vehicles. Get the torta: where many emulate the dryness of a taco, Mi Lindo’s is soft and cohesive like a good burger, with cheese melting onto tender meat and a buttery bun. Get there before it’s too cold. (Will Cabaniss) Taqueria Mi Lindo Mexico, 538 W. Pershing Rd. Monday–Friday, 9am—5pm; Saturday, 9am–5pm. (773) 891-1566. milindomexicomarket.com
JASON SCHUMER
BRONZEVILLE Compiled by Maple Joy JASON SCHUMER
BEST SUNDAY NIGHT DINNER
Yassa
As the temperature begins to fall, the time to drop pins in Google maps on all the places that will feed and warm your stomach approaches too. If you want the transcendental, light-a-fire-in-your body experience, head toward King Drive to Yassa. Sundays are reserved for meals shared with family and relatives. When I popped into Yassa on a Sunday evening, I didn’t step into a restaurant, but a space reminiscent of a living room ripe with the spirit of multiple families coalescing. The word "restaurant’"originates from the French word restaurer, which translates to “restore or refresh.” At Yassa, more than just our guts are restored from hunger pain. Yassa is the first Senegalese restaurant in the city of Chicago and is owned by couple Awa and Madieye Gueye. The doors opened in 2004 on 79th street, later relocating to Bronzeville due to a fire that destroyed their old location. Tonight, while I dine at Yassa, I order two dishes clearly meant to be the quintessence of pleasance. Maffe is a stew cooked with cubes of lamb in creamy peanut butter and tomato sauce with potatoes, carrots and yams, which I paired with jollof rice. Every ingredient tastes slow-cooked, and loaded with shimmering flavors swirling in a fatty, oily, and smooth stew. Lamb meat comes sliding off the bones like skates down a freshly zambonied rink. Dish number two is the Yassa fish: whole tilapia marinated overnight in onion, garlic, mustard, lemon and top-secret spices only known to the kitchen, grilled and topped with onions and green olives served with a side of plantains. Rip the bone SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 17
BRONZEVILLE right out and scrape every piece of fresh fish fiber from the spine. I’m here to tell you it isn’t just the Maffe’s collapsible at-the-touch-of-the-fork lamb, or the tilapia’s crispy on the outside, tender on the inside meat that holds all the attention. At Yassa, your sides will also be fighting for the lead role (and maybe winning the spotlight). The plantains are the perfect pairing for the tilapia and provide a taste and texture that makes one quiver. Your taste buds oscillate between melt-inyour-mouth fish, and firm then juicy on the inside plantains. Don’t forget to wash it all down with one of several Yassa house-made beverages—bissap, ginger, baobab, or honeydew and pineapple. If none of these drinks sound right for your throat canal, you probably won’t mind Yassa being BYOB. This isn’t an article about the success of long-term coupling, but one thinking on how food can be flavored by people and their environment. One clue as to why Yassa feels and tastes as good as it does is the relationship behind it. (Leo Williams) Yassa, 3511 S King Drive. Sunday–Thursday, 11am–10pm; Friday and Saturday, 11am– 11pm. (773) 488-5599. yassarestaurant.com
BEST OUTDOOR MUSEUM
Absolutely Anything Essential
When you take the plunge into Absolutely Anything Essential’s garden unit space, the first thing you notice are the various aromas. It’s something like homemade cookies meets a bushel of roses meets the morning after a rainstorm. If you look around, you’ll start to realize why. Shelves are lined with every self-care product you didn’t know you needed: from body scrubs and lotions to Girl Scout cookies and bath teas. “Every item in here is [from] a small business, and we just work together as a collective of small businesses, like a family,” said store manager Zae Gregory. Her mother, Kenya Renee, owns the store. “The majority of us are African American––some of us are from [Bronzeville], some of us are from other states, and we’re all just coming together.” Gregory really means it when she says “coming together.” Vendors frequently come by the store to meet customers and to host weekly classes. You can actually make many of the products that are for sale right on-site. “We also have a lot of paint and sit classes, where you can BYOB and paint and just have fun, and we love doing that,” Gregory said. Body scrub, candle and lotion-making classes are crowd favorites. Your best chance of getting a seat is Saturday, when there can be up to three vendors hosting classes throughout the day. Absolutely Anything Essential has been in their current space for two years this October, birthed out of Renee’s love of crafting. “I think she [Renee] just woke up one day and was like, ‘why not have a store.’ When she’s bored she makes body scrubs and stuff,” Gregory said. “She was making products and selling them and popping up at different events with a table, so she was like, ‘Why not make this real?’” The mother-daughter team also has plans to expand their operation to include a black-box theater in the upstairs space attached to the current store. It will feature open mic nights and other community-sourced performances. “If they want a small intimate space, they have it,” Gregory said. While it may be the smell of wildflowers and chocolate that draws customers in, it’s the sense of family and community that makes Absolutely Anything Essential so special. “When customers come in, they understand the story—like OK, my mom and I built it from the ground up,” Gregory said. “But when they come in and realize the spirit, and who actually made your products –– like who made your soap? How long did it take them? And I’m the only one here now, but usually vendors come in, so usually you get to meet the person who made it, [and] it just puts a lot of perspective on the items. You appreciate it more.” (Francesca Mathewes)
BEST OUTDOOR MUSEUM
Oakland Museum of Contemporary Art Milton Mizenberg moved to the Oakland area over thirty years ago. After teaching himself how to repair his new home, he turned to the empty lots around him. With the help of his new neighbors, they cleaned up the lots. Milton then began to make abstract chainsaw sculptures out of the felled trees, filling the lots and founding the Oakland Museum of Contemporary Art. Now spanning over three lots, the outdoor museum and garden have become a point of pride in the 4100 block of Lake Park Avenue in Oakland. In Williams-Davis Park, directly across from the outdoor museum, stands a bronze cast sculpture commissioned by the city, titled “Restoration.” Its inscription reads, “This sculpture is dedicated to the men and women who remained in the Oakland community during difficult times and worked hard to restore its former beauty.” Mizenberg once said in an interview with YouTube channel Chicago Revealed, “Oakland made me a great artist.” Since Mizenberg’s death a few years ago, his son, also Milton, now maintains his home studio and sculpture garden. Along with neighbors, some of whom helped Mizenberg Sr. clear the lots back in 1988, they’ve been working to preserve his sculptures and legacy. They understand the sculpture gardens to be a pivotal feature that ties their community together. A recently awarded South East Chicago Commission grant has helped them begin the long process of preserving the sculptures, many of which have weathered with time. ( J. Michael Eugenio) Oakland Museum of Contemporary Art, E. 41st Pl. and S. Lake Park Ave. Open all the time, but best observed during daylight hours.
Absolutely Anything Essential, 3251 S. King Dr. Wednesday–Saturday, noon–6pm; Saturday, 11am–6pm; closed Sunday–Tuesday. (312) 238-9447. absolutelyanythingessential. com 18 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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C H AT H A M Compiled by Bridget Vaughn BRIDGET VAUGHN
Bridget Vaughn is curious, a lover of ALL music genres, and a card-carrying AARP member. She is exploring her creative side and learning everything she can from the millennials. She drinks non-alcoholic beer, Kombucha, and cinnamon tea.
A
s a native Chicagoan, a lifelong South Sider, and a Chatham resident for many years, I grew up not knowing the actual boundaries of the community. The boundary is not a perfect rectangle and resembles an abstract artist’s rendition of the United States. The area is broken up into four neighborhoods; Chatham, West Chatham, East Chatham and West Chestfield. Growing up, Chatham was a Black mecca. It was a hustling and bustling community of mostly Black folks, proud to live a middle to upper class lifestyle. In Chatham, Black businesses thrived, including three banks: Seaway National Bank, Independence Bank, and Illinois Service Federal and Loan Association. The 75th and 79th Street corridors served as small Black-owned business havens. Residents didn’t have to go outside of their community for much of anything because they could walk. I vividly remember the grocery stores, pharmacies, doctors, dentists, real estate companies, accountants, morticians, florists, a gardening center, motels, skating rinks, bowling alleys, nightclubs, hair salons, photographers, restaurants, laundromats, dry cleaners, and clothing stores. Even Reggio’s Frozen Pizza is produced in Chatham. 20 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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The Chatham neighborhood has seen its fair share of transitions. Population, demographic, and family wealth shifts have dramatically impacted the community. In 1930, 99.7% of the residents were white, with just ten Black residents. By 2000, the demographic had shifted dramatically to 98.3% African American and only 157 white residents. Our shopping corridors on 87th and Cottage Grove and 87th and the Dan Ryan Expressway are fine, but for those of us who like Trader Joe’s, Marianos, and Whole Foods, we have to leave our community to shop. While Chatham can boast of having one Starbucks, it is woefully inconvenient. The community now struggles to maintain a strong small business corridor. However, with access to the Red Line, Metra, and the 29, 3, and 4 buses, public transportation, it is convenient to get around the city. The gasoline is cheaper than in some other neighborhoods. And of the nine elementary schools in Chatham, three are top schools that are focused on educating and training the future leaders in every industry: Dixon Elementary School, McDade Classical School, and Lenart Regional Gifted Center. The elevated focus on the criminal element in certain communities has not escaped Chatham. Know that what you hear in the news is not the full story of this community. As in most areas of the city, Chatham is filled with hardworking people who want the best for their families, follow the law, and are really good neighbors.
CHATHAM
BEST NEW WRAPS The Wrap Bar BRIDGET VAUGHN
BEST MOVIE THEATER
Chatham Studio Movie Grill
If you are Old School Chatham, when you think neighborhood Movie Theater, you automatically think of the old Rhodes Theater located on 79th Street. But when the vintage movie house closed in the 1980’s and was later demolished, Chatham was without a movie theater until 1997. That is when the late Donzell Starks of Inner City Entertainment, in partnership with Cineplex Odeon, beat out Magic Johnson to win financial support from the city of Chicago to build three multiplexes on the South and West sides. The ICE Chatham 14 Theater on 87th Street, at the Dan Ryan, was the new South Side multiplex and the first movie theater in Chatham since the Rhodes. The theater became a welcome addition to the neighborhood and maintained a solid footing until business disputes and management changes ended its fifteen year run in 2012. After that, there was a brief closure in 2012, more management changes and another brief closure in 2016. All of that, like the Rhodes, is history now, and it’s onward to the future at 210 W. 87th Street. New owners and a three-million-dollar renovation have turned the 65,186 square-foot theater, which sits across the parking lot from Home Depot, into Studio Movie Grill–Chatham. The Dallas Texas-based Studio Movie Grill brand is the vision of founder Brian Schultz, who wanted to bring a new ambience to the movie-going experience, along with adding a social responsibility component in service to the communities his theaters call home. Studio Movie Grill strives to be a good neighbor and a good citizen, with community outreach built into its mission statement. Not only are newly-released major motion pictures shown at SMG-Chatham, the venue strives to be accessible to local artists and filmmakers and frequently screens smaller independent films and videos. The lobby studio space offers a sizable performance stage that can be easily transformed into a red carpet area for promotional photos, books signings, panel discussions, community forums, and more. The complete renovation added a full service kitchen and a full service bar (I recommend the crispy tempura Atlantic cod with cole slaw, and spicy jalapeño tartar sauce and a nice Prosecco), plus a sleek lounge area for relaxing while waiting for movies or other entertainment to start or socializing and is often used for business meetings or private events. Although Studio Movie Grill is not just a destination for moviegoers, make no mistake, the SMG movie experience is ultra-deluxe, offering custom luxury recliners, laser projection screens, and Q-SYS sound systems throughout. Each auditorium offers prompt, friendly-yet-amazingly-quiet food and beverage service available anytime during any screening from the touch of a button at each seat. As Venisha Johnson, who is in charge of events for SMG Midwest and East Coast, put it, there is no reason to have to go downtown to see a movie anymore, when there is everything you need at Studio Movie Grill—and the parking is free! (Nicole Bond) Studio Movie Grill, 210 W. 87th St. Open 365 days a year unless otherwise noted. Box office opens one hour before the first scheduled movie of the day and closes fifteen minutes after the start of the last scheduled show time. Ticket prices: $9.25 adult non-peak evening, $9.50 adult peak evening, $7.75 adult matinee (before 5pm), $6.50 before noon, $7.25 children ages 2-12, and $7.75 with ID for active military, seniors age 65+ and students age 13+.
Since opening a few months ago at 82nd & Cottage Grove, the Wrap Bar has enraptured customers with its affordable, substantial wraps. The crispy buffalo chicken balances its spice with a cool ranch; the caesar chicken provides a sharp, anchovy-based kick. (This reporter has his eye on the salmon wrap for a next visit.) The eatery’s homemade chocolate cookies offer the perfect complement, though you may find yourself saving them for later after completing your wrap. It’s the rare new restaurant that demands a quick return soon after your first visit, so you can, uh, wrap up trying everything on the menu. (Sam Stecklow) The Wrap Bar, 8154 S. Cottage Grove Ave. Monday–Saturday, 10am–8pm; closed Sunday. (773) 633-2588.
BEST RADIO STATION WVON 1690 AM
Best movie: Mahogany. Best actress: Diana Ross as Tracy Chambers. Best scene: Tracy Chambers’s South Side apartment, where from the transistor radio we hear the unforgettable WVON jingle and station ID, followed by the voice of legendary disk jockey E. Rodney Jones say, “Hi, it’s E. Rodney Jones comin’ your way from WVON the Mighty 1390! Chicagoland’s Black Giant!” right before Billy Dee Williams drops a hundred in nickels through the mail slot! Yassss! Iconic. Classic. And good. The Black Giant has remained a constant since its beginning over half a century ago in April of 1963, as the Voice of the Negro, which the station’s call letters proclaimed. Originally the small 1000-watt station, then at 1450 on the AM radio dial, and the brainchild of Chess Records founders Leonard and Phil Chess, began as a way to showcase the best of Chicago’s radio talent. And showcase WVON did, first by assembling a group of some of the most unique and memorable voices ever to grace the airwaves, like the great Herb Kent—the cool gent—Bill “Butterball” Crane, Joe Cobb, Don Cornelius, Isabel Joseph Johnson, Bernadine C. Washington, Wesley South, and Pervis Spann, the Blues Man. WVON had a special arrangement with Motown Records founder Berry Gordy that every song Gordy produced be sent directly to WVON for first airplay. That collaboration moved WVON beyond the scope of local Chicago radio into the influence of other radio markets, while consistently ranking in the top five of most listened to stations in the Chicago market for more than a decade. But it was not only the music and the on-air personalities that made WVON Chicagoland’s Black Giant—it was the information both local and national broadcasted about all things related to the lives of Black people that endeared the station to generations of listeners. WVON was always there to unapologetically inform, and uplift Black people on the public airwaves when other stations did not understand the need or the opportunity to do so. The station endured a few changes in ownership and a few moves along the AM dial, which ultimately resulted in two of WVON’s original on-air personalities Wesley South and Purvis Spann forming the Midway Broadcasting Company, transSEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 21
CHATHAM
forming the Voice of the Negro to the Voice of the Nation. Today the all-talk format makes WVON Chicago’s first Black talk radio format. Now under the helm of second-generation Spann ownership, with Melody Spann Cooper (the daughter of Pervis Spann) as chairman of Midway Broadcasting Company [holding the controlling interest], WVON is not only a South Side gem but is a global beacon streaming conversations for most every palate, live on iHeart Radio. WVON remains home to some of the best Chicago radio talent. On air you will hear a plethora of distinguished veteran talk show personalities, career journalists, legal scholars and financial experts, a virtual and literal who’s who in Black Chicago radio. The station’s Art “Chat Daddy” Sims, host of the nightly entertainment magazine “Real Talk with Real People” was actually inducted into the second edition of Who’s Who in Black Chicago. Also not to miss are Afternoons with Cliff (Please Run for Mayor—my nickname for him, not his) Kelley, the Customer Service podcast with Dorothy Tucker, and the Urban Business Roundtable with Micaela “Micae” Brown. (Nicole Bond) WVON Radio, 1690 on your AM dial. WVON Midway Broadcasting, 1000 E. 87th St. Twenty-four hours a day. BRIDGET VAUGHN
BEST ACTIVITY FOR SENIORS
Mather’s—More Than A Café
When the nonprofit organization Mather’s—More Than A Café opened in Chatham to serve the community’s senior citizens, in my mind I was still a spring chicken. Fast-forward to today, and I now routinely enjoy Sunday morning breakfasts with my sisters there. When it opened, Mather’s brought a new concept to the community, offering a place for seniors to commune with others of similar interests. The building is more than just a physical space: it creates opportunities for people to engage with each other and maintain a healthy and balanced life—physically, emotionally, and socially. Here’s what “more than a café ” means to the Chatham’s seniors: every week, you can participate in multiple fitness classes, including strength training, meditation, African movement and dance, laughter yoga, and line dancing. Beginning in October through the end of 2018, Mather’s will offer opportunities for seniors to learn how to select the best Medicare plan or to attend a health and wellness fair. Gamers can enjoy multiple card and board games, including bridge, bid whist, Scrabble, and chess. I’ve heard the open mic and karaoke showcases are very lively and fun—and, best of all, it’s BYOB. The café is affordable, especially for seniors on a fixed income. Bottomless coffee and other specials are only ninety-five cents. My go-to breakfast, the TwoTwo-Two (pancakes, eggs and bacon or sausage), is $5.49—and everything is madeto-order! The lunch menu offers similarly priced good food. Mather’s tagline is “the perfect place to eat well, learn well, and age well in Chatham.” As one community resident puts it, “This place is a jewel! It’s well-maintained. The staff is upbeat and positive. And we don’t have to drive to other neighborhoods for excellence.” That community resident is me. (Bridget Vaughn) Mather’s—More Than a Café. 33 E. 83rd St. Monday–Thursday, 8:30am–2:45pm; Friday 8:30am–8pm; Saturday and Sunday, 9am–2:45pm. (773) 488-2801. matherlifeways.com
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BEST HISTORICAL CHURCH St. Mark United Methodist Church The year 1893 was indeed special. It was the year the World’s Columbian Exposition was held in Jackson Park—and it was also the year St. Mark’s United Methodist Church was founded. This year is the 125th anniversary for both of these historic events. St. Mark was formed for Black Chicagoans, who initially gathered in a church previously damaged by a fire—but after the new congregants restored it, it was taken over by the white congregation that had previously occupied it. And because the Black congregants did not have equal rights, they had to find a new church home, at 50th Street and Wabash Avenue. St. Mark’s remained there until moving to Chatham in 1960, where it continues to be a pillar in the neighborhood. “One of the church’s primary objectives is to help persons discern and carry out God’s will for their lives,” said Reverend P. Devon Brown, the church’s pastor, in a video on its website. The church lays out a clear path for helping members and the community achieve its objectives for themselves and the church through its nurture, outreach, witness, and youth ministries. (Bridget Vaughn) St. Mark’s United Methodist Church, 8441 S. St. Lawrence Ave. Services held Sundays at 8am and 10am. Sunday school for children also held Sundays at 10am. The 125th anniversary celebration will be held September 30 at 10am. (773) 846-2992. stmarkumcchicago. org
BRIDGET VAUGHN
BEST PARK COMMUNITY Tuley Park What makes a park stand out? Start with the numbers. Approximately 100 homes line Tuley Park’s lengthy perimeter, which runs from 90th to 91st Streets and from Martin Luther King Drive to St. Lawrence Avenue. Twelve tennis courts, four baseball and softball fields, two basketball courts, two locker rooms, one gymnasium, one auditorium, and six lanes in a fifty-yard outdoor pool fill the park’s twenty acres. In the field, a plaque commemorates the Tuley Park Comets, the first Black team to win the Chicago Park District Little League Baseball Championship in 1959. (They were undefeated.) Ask Donna Jones, the park supervisor, and she will tell you without hesitation that the community is what makes Tuley Park unique. She often meets adults who tell her about growing up in the park. Today, they take their children to swim in the pool, run in the field, or play tennis on Tuley’s new junior tennis courts, a unique amenity in the Chicago Park District (“it’s a big tennis community,” Jones told me). A large senior group meets in the park twice a week to dance, eat, and play social games. The Chesterfield Community Council holds its meetings in the fieldhouse and cultural center where, every December, the park staff hosts a community appreciation event for all of Tuley’s visitors.
On a recent visit, I noticed how the red roof, arched doorways, and spiral columns of the Spanish Revival fieldhouse and cultural center stand out against an unmistakably Chicago backdrop of neatly kept bungalows. A tree-shaded walk extends to the east where, even on a weekday, I could hear the echo of sneakers on courts and the gentle chime of tennis balls bouncing into the chain-link fence. On the other side of the park, a woman did a post-workout stretch in the playground. Reflecting on her seventeen years working at Tuley Park, Jones said that the most touching thing to see is how people keep coming back. “For me,” she said, “it’s a home away from home.” (Max Budovitch) Tuley Park, 501 E. 90th Pl. Park: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, 9am–8pm; Tuesday, Thursday, 9am–9pm; Saturday, 9am–5:30pm; Sunday, closed. Fieldhouse: Monday, 9:30am-9pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 9am-9pm; Friday, 10am–9pm; Saturday, 9am-5pm; Sunday, closed. (312) 747-6763. parks-facilities/tuley-park
SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 23
CHINATOWN
Compiled by Jasmine Mithani ZACHARY JESSE
BEST WAY TO KEEP UP WITH NEW BOBA TRENDS Joy Yee Plus Located just a few stores down the block from the original Chinatown Joy Yee on Archer Avenue, Joy Yee Plus specializes in shabu-shabu hot pot. In recent years, it has also become the destination to experience the cutting edge of new dessert trends, focusing on bubble tea, Hong Kong-style bubble waffles, and ice cream. When you walk into the store, posters for the newest drinks are pasted on the walls and displayed on the counter. They are advertising a variety of drinks made with butterfly pea flower tea, which is a brilliant blue when brewed and can change hue with the addition of different ingredients. Alongside these rainbow drinks are advertisements for cheese tea, which includes a layer of either sweet or salty cream cheese foam on top of the drink. I ordered the sparkling mango-passion fruit butterfly pea flower tea and the House Matcha ice cream bubble waffle. My drink came in Joy Yee’s signature sealed plastic bottle; there was a layer of orange fruit flavor underneath the deep violet of the butterfly pea flower tea. I tasted both layers before mixing them, and the purple one was 24 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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overpowered by the strong fruit flavor. I didn’t care much for that particular fruit combination, but I easily scarfed down the stunning waffle dessert—which admittedly might have warped my taste buds with the sweet mix of matcha-flavored soft serve, sweetened condensed milk, red bean, and mochi. My friends and I split the behemoth, and had to eat quickly since the waffle was still warm from being freshly made. If you’re bored by regular milk tea (though they have that too!) or want to experience a new kind of decadent treat, the constantly rotating menu at Joy Yee Plus will always satisfy your yearning. However, expect to pay more for these fashionable delights: most special boba flavors start at $5.00, and the ice cream waffles start at $8.50. ( Jasmine Mithani) Joy Yee Plus, 2159 S. China Pl. Monday–Friday, 2pm–11pm; Saturday, noon–midnight; Sunday, noon–11pm. (312) 842-8928.
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BEST BUTTER FIX Tous Les Jours
Perhaps to the chagrin of our many French-speaking readers, the popular pronunciation of Tous Les Jours is the Korean way: (ddu-le-joo-reuh). An “Asian-French” bakery founded in South Korea in 1996, Tous Les Jours serves as a marker for the presence of Korean communities wherever it’s found. In suburbs with a significant Korean population, Tous Les Jours is where mothers congregate after church over coffee and sweet bread filled with red bean paste; students split a loaf of mocha cream bread while studying; and a Korean father with the worst score in a round of golf pays for his friends’ pat-bing-su—a summer treat that layers sweet red bean paste and fruit over a mountain of shaved ice. While Tous Les Jours has four locations in Chicago suburbs—Naperville, Schaumburg, Glenview, and Vernon Hills—the newest iteration is in Chinatown, where it’s not marketed as explicitly Korean but blends in with the Pan-Asian array of restaurants in the neighborhood. In the Korean dinner tradition, your first round (il-cha) is your dinner, perhaps at Ajoomah’s Apron on Cermak. If you’re not feeling the traditional second round (ee-cha) of going hard at a bar or at karaoke, sit down with a group of friends at Tous Les Jours and fill your basket full of sweets like the pillowy green tea morning roll, soboro-bbang (a red bean– or cream-filled bun topped with a crispy peanut streusel-like layer), or sweet-savory pastries like the sausage squid ink bread or a curry croquette. (Rachel Kim)
BEST PURPLE NOODLES Xi’an Cuisine
One of the more interesting items you’ll find for sale at Xi’an Cuisine, a lovably sparse Chinatown café , isn’t on the printed menu. Instead it’s scribbled in Chinese characters on a piece of paper on the wall, and you should order it: liangpi—a delicious dish of cold rice noodles steeped in a sesame sauce, but made with black rice (hei mi) instead of the usual white. These bright purple noodles ($6.50) pop out from underneath a bed of cucumber, bean sprouts, and tofu, adding an unexpected depth of flavor and color to an already superb dish. Add a meaty, oily, palm-sized pork flatbread for $3.50 and you’ve got one of the most well-rounded $10 lunches Chicago has to offer. (Will Cabaniss) Xi’an Cuisine, 225 W. Cermak Rd. Open daily 10:30am–10pm. (312) 326-3171. xiancuisinechicago.com
Tous Les Jours, 2144 S. Archer Ave. Daily, 9am–10pm. (312) 225-8488. tljus.com
JASMINE MITHANI
JASMINE MITHANI
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CHINATOWN
BEST CHILDREN’S BOOK SELECTION
BEST COLLECTION OF ANCIENT BURIAL OBJECTS
Chicago Public Library, Chinatown Branch
Heritage Museum of Asian Art
I am perched on the lowest rung of a giant pile of leather-stuffed cushions as I write, looking at a selection of books. The concentric pile of circular cushions—red, pink and orange, all of them stacked one on top of the other—resemble a birthday cake. A girl just screamed and ran past me. “This is unusual for the library,” I hear the librarian confess, “there are usually like two or three kids here on weekdays.” But today’s a Saturday, and the leftmost corner on the ground floor of the Chicago Public Library in Chinatown is bustling with humans of all ages. Located on the corner of Archer and Wentworth Avenue, the library moved to its new location hoping to bridge the old (southern) and new (northern) parts of the neighborhood. Mimicking the triangle formed by South Archer Avenue, West Cermak Road and South Wentworth Avenue , the structure of this modern library stands out from its counterparts in the city. From Lemony Snicket’s A 'Series of Unfortunate Events' to Chinese books about shapes, the library has a volume for a child of any age. In fact, by the librarian’s desk there is a little brochure with titles in case you need a guide to help you pick out books for your child. Some of the other books I spotted included Cornelia Funke’s 'Inkheart' trilogy, Carolyn Keene’s 'Nancy Drew' series, as well as a handful of Judy Blume books. For the more inquisitive reader, there are beautifully illustrated books on the science behind snowflakes, fun facts about the cat family, and an encyclopedic series on the different states across the US. The highlight of this library is the crossover between Chinese and English language books: they stock English books translated to Chinese (such as Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone), manhua (Chinese comics) in English, as well as books in English exploring Chinese culture. In addition to a large selection of books, the children’s section also has fun seating options in the form of animal-shaped furniture, and a host of activities to keep children entertained— some options include hand puppets, Lego blocks, cardboard bricks and board games. It’s incredibly noisy and exciting—like a child’s birthday party —but no one is upset. (Manisha AR)
From precious jade objects dating back to the Shang Dynasty metal objects from the Han Dynasty (some of which were buried with their owners), the Heritage Museum of Asian Art offers a glimpse into ancient Asian history from its new location in Chinatown. Reopened at the beginning of this year on 26th Street, the museum is a red-brick building with banners detailing exhibitions hanging down the top-half of its facade. The street level entrance greets you with two stone luduans, Chinese mythical creatures, perched on pedestals. Previously located on 23rd Street, the new space is much larger, spread out across three floors, a blend between a private home and an antique store. Jeffrey Moy is the founder of the museum, as well as the owner of several of the pieces in the space. He’s third generation Chinese-American; his grandparents were among the founders of the original Chinatown in Chicago on Clark and Van Buren. George Theen, who is usually seated at the information desk, explained to me that in addition to their mission—“preserve and promote the tradition of Asian art for present and future generations”—the space is a way for Moy, also the museum director, to give back to the community. “A lot of the local people are not very familiar with this [history] and it’s their own heritage,” Theen added. Moy has been collecting and dealing with ancient Asian art for over fifty years. Most of the jade objects and furniture belong to him, while the bronze vessels, ceramic figurines, and stone sculptures from ancient India are on loan from other private collectors. The current featured exhibition, “Dragons in Asian Art,” which opened a few months ago, includes a small collection of Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese objects with dragon motifs and carvings, symbolizing the power and strength of the mythical creature. The second floor of the museum houses a research library, a gift store, and an enthralling collection of ojimes, ornamental objects that are usually fastened onto kimonos as accessories. The research library is non-circulating and is open during museum hours; the museum website recommends filling out a form in advance and making reservations online in order to browse their collection. (Manisha AR)
Chinatown Branch, Chicago Public Library, 2100 S. Wentworth Ave. Monday and Wednesday, noon–8pm; Tuesday and Thursday, 10am–6pm; Friday and Saturday, 9am–5pm.
Heritage Museum of Asian Art, 218 W. 26th St. Tuesday–Sunday, 11am–5pm; Monday, closed. $8 adults, $6 seniors and students, free for active military and kids under 13. (312) 842-8884. heritageasianart.org
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CHICAGO LAWN, WEST ELSDON, & WEST LAWN BEST, MOST INACCESSIBLE WETLANDS Cicero Wetlands
Blink and you’ll miss the triangle of tall grasses and dragonflies in the bustle of Cicero Avenue traffic. The 1.66-acre parcel is an understated instance of wetland resilience in urban settings. The microhabitat might have been just a small part of the ever-shifting patchwork of wetlands that stretched out to Lake Michigan pre-settlement. Or, as University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign ecologist Jeffrey Matthews suggested, it might have been an “accidental wetlands”—which is to say, a new wetland that forms when development interrupts water flow and causes it to pool in one place. Whether it’s new or old, an “accident” of development or a remnant of the pre-settlement landscape, the fact of its continued existence is reason enough for recognition. No matter the size, Matthews said, the land is valuable for the habitat it provides to amphibians and birds, and for its ability to hold runoff water during a storm or flood. 28 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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EMELINE POSNER
Belt Railway, which maintains a railyard just to the north, owns the property. The company didn’t respond to a request for comment, but it seems to have no plans for the land other than continuing to rent out the billboards that tower above it. (According to a city document, there are a number of utility easements on the property that would prevent the railway, or anyone else, from developing it or making substantive adjustments.) The wetland microhabitat is host to a waving sea of phragmites, an invasive tallgrass, and teasel, a burr plant with prickled, bright purple blossoms. Dragonflies and birds flit overhead, and monarch butterflies flutter over toppled house-for-sale signs and beer cans. It’s not much of a destination, per se, unless you have a proclivity for sneaking around property belonging to a large company with a private police force. But after shopping at Bedford City Mall across the street, a walk up the sidewalk along the wetlands might offer an antidote to the corporate monotony: a nice little reminder of the nuances of urban development, and the life that gets caught in between. (Emeline Posner) Cicero Wetlands, 7200 S. Cicero Ave.
CHICAGO LAWN, WEST ELSDON, & WEST LAWN
ADAM PRZYBYL
BEST MUSICAL FARMERS MARKET
BEST TECHNOLOGICAL COMMUNITY CENTER
Fresh Beats & Eats Farmers Market
Mind + Hand
The weekly farmers market organized by the Inner-City Muslim Action Network (IMAN) sounds more like a party than a collection of produce and hot food stands. Though it was early in the afternoon, and relatively sparsely-attended, the DJ’d music provided a welcome greeting during my recent visit. The market that particular week included two produce stands; spicy vegan tamales from Conscious for Life, run by a self-trained chef named Queen Tahirah; Imani’s Bean Pies; Chicago Art Press’s shockingly strong ginger-fruit health drinks, created by native South Sider Norbaya Jameela Durr; and a handful of other stands. Making healthy food more accessible to low-income neighborhoods—perhaps by enticing people with music—is at the center of the efforts of IMAN, Eric Rodriguez, the organization’s food ecosystems coordinator, said. He oversees the market; IMAN’s corner store campaign, which works to help corner stores stock healthy food (sometimes by providing it to them at cost) and bridges the gap between Arab corner store owners and their Black customers; and a commercial training kitchen the organization is opening next year across the street from the farmers market. This particular week, the musical act had canceled at the last minute, so Bike a Bee, a mobile beekeeping service, presented an impromptu workshop on bees, pollen, and how they affect our food system. Market attendees crowded around the stage, eager to learn about where their food comes from, and thus IMAN’s goal of educating its neighbors about healthy food by providing access to it was fulfilled. (Sam Stecklow)
On the second floor of a retail bank location off the Pulaski Orange Line stop is Mind + Hand, a difficult-to-describe venture, yet one immediately recognizable as necessary. It’s a makerspace, a computer lab, a mentoring center, and a job training site rolled into one. It’s run, somewhat improbably, by just five people: a community organizer, the makerspace’s coordinator, a volunteer coordinator, and the two founders and directors, both of whom are from the area and have a background in education. Students come by to do homework, play video games, use the 3-D printer, or just hang out; adults in the community are welcome to do the same. Since opening last year, the small group has worked to engage with schools, businesses, and residents in the area to determine the exact skill sets needed for all to best utilize the resources it provides. The center’s name is sourced from the Latin motto of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the alma mater of co-founder Jason Gonzales; it stresses the need for education to be practically applied. Given the political weaponization of CPS by city officials, and the dire situation of un- and underemployment of young people of color in Chicago, Mind + Hand’s Latinx-based mission feels incredibly timely. (Sam Stecklow)
SAM STECKLOW
Mind + Hand. 5400 S. Pulaski Rd., 2nd fl. Monday–Friday, 9am–8pm. mindhand.org
Fresh Beats & Eats Farmers Market, 2477 W. 63rd St. Friday, 2pm–6pm, through October 26. (773) 434-4626. imancentral.org
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CLEARING-GARFIELD RIDGE Compiled by Emeline Posner
63RD AND CENTRAL GREENSPACE
EMELINE POSNER
A fourth-generation resident of Clear-Ridge (as Clearing and Garfield Ridge are most often referred to by residents), Rob Bitunjac is the manager of the Clearing Public Library and the president of the Clear-Ridge Historical Society.
I
can go all the way back to my great-grandfather. Just to the west of here in the suburb of Summit is a place called Argo Corn Products, that was built just around the turn of the century, a huge factory that sort of started the industrial boom over here. The story in my family is, my great-grandfather helped build that.... And then he lived real close to where I live now. Four generations of my family went to the same CPS school.... And that’s part of the reason I started the [Clear Ridge] Historical Society. We formulated the Historical Society in 2011. Myself and a group of other longtime locals decided that it would be interesting. We were collecting all of this stuff and we didn’t know what to do with it, and the history of this area is important for not only the airport—which is really the only landmark that we can tell people—or the railyards.... That’s a lot of our history, but like anywhere else there’s a lot of local history. This part of the city wasn’t even part of the city till 1915, so there’s not a lot of old, old history. And the really old stuff [is from] before it was part of the city, so it’s hard to track down any information. If you have a house that was built before 1915 out here, it’s difficult because the records aren’t necessarily at City Hall. ‘Cause [Clear-Ridge] was part of Stickney, it was part of Lyons, it was part of a lot of different things. You know the history of [Midway], that it belonged to the Board of Education? By some proclamation in the 18th Century, Section 16 of every township—township don’t mean much nowadays, but townships are made up of 32 square miles—was always to be set aside for the Board of Education. So originally [Section 16] belonged to Lyon’s Township. Then it became part of Stickney Township. There used to be farmland there, there was a golf course, there were railroad tracks going through the middle, there were a couple public schools on the property. And all that money went to the BOE [through rent]. [Since 1915] all that land belongs to the city of Chicago. A lot of [Stickney’s] history is intertwined with ours. If you drive down 63rd Street right [near Central], there’s a building and, on top, it says 1912. Well, that was the Town Hall for Stickney Township from 1912 to 1915. When the City of 30 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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Chicago annexed that building, the city of Chicago people came out and changed the locks.When the Stickney township people went to go into the building and their keys didn’t work, and the city guys called down and said, ‘Sorry this isn’t part of Stickney anymore, you guys are out.' It ended up that they shared the building. It’s condos now, but that story kinda illustrates the back and forth. When the airport changed hands from Stickney to the city of Chicago, there was a court case in the 1940s where Stickney claimed that it was never properly transferred over, and that they’re due all this money from the airport renting this space. They tried to sue the city of Chicago before they got the case thrown out due to lack of evidence. People around here always think that they’re gonna expand the runways, and they’re gonna take over their houses. That’s been a threat for fifty years now, but it’s never gonna happen. ... They’re never gonna cut off 63rd Street from the rest of the city. You’re not gonna cut off 55th Street or Central Avenue or certainly not Cicero, because that’s the link to the Stevenson Expressway. But they are acquiring lands very passively. Our base is mostly just doing programs. We’ve had all kinds of speakers, in fact, we’re having Dominic Pacyga author of Chicago: A Biography here in late October. ... Just about every Chicago history-related topic we’ve had in one form or another. It’s great, cause I work for the library, so either the historical society could pay for it, and the library can be the venue for it, or sometimes the library pays for it, and the historical society can help promote it. There’s a lot of other local organizations that have files, and we keep those as well. There’s a newspaper guy in the neighborhood, Tim Haydek, he’s the editor of the Southwest News-Herald. We kind of act as a repository for their microfilm, too. Just the little stuff to help—there really was no outlet for this kind of stuff in the neighborhood. Newspaper clippings, photos, I’ve had people give me physical objects.... Two years ago they tore down a building, at 63rd and Central here, and I have pieces of the building. And I have other physical things.... When they opened the Orange Line, in 1993, people had these orange baseball caps and little flags and banners, so they donate all that kinda stuff to me. We’ve put up a couple historical markers here and there. One of the former mayors of Chicago, John Wentworth was his name, had a farmhouse on Archer and
CLEARING-GARFIELD RIDGE Harlem, and we had a historical marker put on one of the businesses there. And a couple other plaques here and there, and dedications.... Just little stuff, but stuff that’ll stand the test of time, that people in the future will appreciate. (As told to Emeline Posner)
BEST SPANISH BAROQUE GARDEN
Remnants of the Crane & Moreland Building
If you were, as so many people do each day, leaving or entering Midway Airport by air, you might look out your window during touchdown or take-off. And if you were, as many people often are, feeling particularly paranoid on that day, you might look out and see two rows of stone columns in an unassuming pocket park just past the southwest corner of the airfield and think to yourself that they were arranged at an angle that appeared suspiciously Masonic, their placement plotting out either half of the Square and Compasses. You’d be wrong about the conspiracy—or, at least, the responsible party— but you’d be right to think something strange was going on at the corner of 63rd and Central. Seen from ground level, the structures are no less enigmatic: a half-dozen ornamented monoliths, each with a spire on top. Fortunately, there’s a sign that explains most of what’s going on; walk down the street to Dianne Johnson’s shop, Midway Jewelry, and she’ll fill in the rest of it. It turns out that the columns are the last remnant of the Crane & Moreland building, put up in 1927 and designed by Edward G. McClellan, the same architect behind the Roberts Temple Church of God in Christ where Emmett Till was buried. In 2012, the Federal Aviation Administration and the City of Chicago decided that the Crane & Moreland building, which then occupied the entire corner, presented too much of a threat to air traffic because of its proximity to the airport’s runways. When they bought it and planned for its demolition, local residents affiliated with the ClearRidge Historical Society protested. “We had stacks and stacks of petitions. Everyone who came into the store signed one,” said Johnson. “But it’s hard to win when you’re fighting the FAA.” In 2014, the building was torn down. The building itself was covered in Spanish Baroque ornamentation: terracotta crest on the frieze, twist-fluted columns decorating the windows. It was these elements that, in a concession to locals, were repurposed into the columns in the park. Of course, the building wasn’t just decorative: it was also home to twenty-nine apartments and eight businesses. “Most of the businesses ended up relocating nearby,” said Johnson. “But it still starves the street of commercial activity.” (Christian Belanger) 63rd Street and Central Avenue.
BEST SOUTHWEST SIDE JIBARITO
Cafe Rosa
Gone are the days when South Siders had to trek up to Division for a good Puerto Rican meal. For the last three years, a small kitchen in Archer Heights has been cooking up a storm, supplying the neighborhood with jibaritos, empanadas, and pollo guisado with steaming side portions of arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas and pork that’s cooked in the same pot as sofrito, a traditional Puerto Rican sauce with a base of aji dulce and cilantro) on the side. With a full bar and friendly—though not necessarily speedy—service, the homey restaurant is well worth a stop-in at any time of day. Beware, however, the not-so-regular hours: more than a few Yelp-ers have complained that they’ve arrived during business hours only to find dark windows. Toward the front, there are bigger tables, well-suited for a family outing; tucked in the back toward the kitchen are small, bar-height tables, nice for a date, or for catching up with a close friend. (Emeline Posner)
DIANNE JOHNSON
EMELINE POSNER
BEST GEM OF A STORE
Midway Jewelry
On a snowy night thirteen years ago, a Southwest airplane crashed through Midway Airport’s airfield barriers and into the intersection of 55th and Central Avenue. With a child killed and several others injured, the first major crash at Midway in twenty-nine years, it made national news. Reporters hung around the neighborhood following the accident, remembers Dianne Johnson, owner of Midway Jewelry, which sits just past the airfield’s southwest corner at 63rd and Central. She remembers that one reporter stuck around for weeks, eventually admitting that his editor wanted to know when Johnson would be moving to a new location. Johnson says she laughed at the thought that one accident might scare them—or anyone else in the neighborhood, for that matter—away from the runways after forty-some years in business in that very storefront. “Most people here have a romance with the airport,” she says. Midway Jewelry’s interior walls, all but obscured by posters and photos, lovingly showcase that romance. One particularly arresting photo catches the red belly of a Southwest plane as it hovers seemingly meters above the jewelry shop’s roof. Under the photos are boxes of pendants and jewels along with shelves of mostly local and self-published books about the airport, the neighborhood, and their entangled histories. Johnson, who is a member of the Clear-Ridge Historical Society, has been stocking books alongside jewels for the last fifteen years, after coming across a book published by Lake Claremont Press about the first seventy-five years of Midway’s existence. In just a couple days, she sold hundreds of copies of that book, and has sold hundreds more since. Every day but Sunday and Wednesday, when the shop is closed, Johnson buzzes a steady stream of customers through the door. Most of them come for jewelry adjustments and new batteries but keep a close eye on the shelves for new titles. On a recent visit, a man flipped through the Encyclopedia of Chicago while his wife waited at the counter. It’s one of Johnson’s newest additions—she played the long game on eBay, waiting to buy the book, which retails for $65, until it dropped down to $7—but it’s one of the few titles that’s not for sale. Johnson feels lucky to be where she is. The airplane crash of 2005 didn’t scare her much, and she doesn’t lose much sleep over the looming enemies of small business, like automation and internet marketplaces, either. “Amazon can’t adjust a watch wristband for you,” she smiles. “They can’t size a ring.” (Emeline Posner) Midway Jewelry, 5635 W. 63rd St. Monday–Tuesday and Thursday–Friday, 9:30am– 6pm; Saturday, 9:30am–2pm; closed Wednesday and Sunday. (773) 767-1633.
Cafe Rosa, 5842 S. Archer Ave. Tuesdays–Saturdays, 11am–8:30pm; Sundays 11am–7pm. $8–$15. (773) 581-2982. SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 31
ENGLEWOOD Compiled by Mari Cohen
JASON SCHUMER
Jerrold “Just Flo” Anderson is a motivational hip-hop artist and speed painter living in Englewood. He specializes in poetry, rap, singing, live artistry, comedy improv, illustration, murals, and tattoos. His goal is to “create harmony and cultivate healing within my family, community, and throughout the world.” He has performed with local, indie, and major label artists, including Nas and Rick Ross.
B
eing a resident of Englewood for about decade now, I find it vitally important to encourage and uplift the balance and economic development of local families and the community—men, women, and children, TOGETHER! The best parts of Englewood can be found in the diverse people and landscapes of our parks, libraries, schools, churches, and community centers. I would love to see more local business support and family restaurants bridging the cultural divides and celebrating healthy traditions. And as we work towards that collective goal, the most exciting factor is, I will be right here to show my children how to thrive in the face of adversity! So much can be learned and harnessed by watching the daily movements of the neighborhood, AND ACTUALLY INTERACTING—and with the help of social media, it's easier than ever to connect with those in need. Through the Resident Association of Greater Englewood (RAGE) organization and Grow Greater Englewood, I have seen the massive amounts of love and fellowship we offer to our great city. Every day is like a beautiful experience just waiting to happen. The "violence" that many speak of is mostly misguided youth,
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still struggling to find purpose in such an ever-changing environment. Those who stand up for our youth work ENDLESSLY and THANKLESSLY with very few resources and support. AND THEY STILL DO WORLDS MORE THAN THOSE WHO STAND ON THE SIDELINES AND CRITICIZE! We face many problems—both seen and unseen—in our streets, and it can be exhausting just watching so many outside of the community form opinions and judge, while ignoring countless voices, conversations, actions and solutions DAILY! The Englewood community is rich with opportunities and growth potential. In the eyes of every youth is a promise of future greatness that simply needs nourishing and nurturing. In the hearts of every elder is a soul full of wisdom that simply needs a humble hand or ear. Our young adults and parents serve as the "lifeblood" connecting generations—they need us all working together. My commitment, with the help of others, is to teach, heal, protect, and empower the history, health, families, wealth, artistry, and science within our children's futures and our day-to-day lives. Through all the ups and downs, the Englewood community has a vast and strong history of struggle and progress and that journey continues today. Beyond the media and outside perspectives, beats the heart of the South Side, still finding its voice and balance amidst the chaos. So as we create harmony and cultivate healing, remember, it takes a village to raise a child—and it takes unity to sustain that Village—so I GLADLY stand as a bonding force! Englewood STAND UP!
ENGLEWOOD
BEST CHILD’S POSE
One Breath Community Yoga by I Grow Chicago
If you’re seeking some peace of mind on a late Saturday morning, consider achieving it through downward dog and warrior poses at one of Englewood’s community hubs. A group of yoga teachers offers free classes in the room adjacent to Kusanya Cafe every Saturday morning at 11:30am. Classes are put on by I Grow Chicago, a nonprofit that aims to build community connection and opportunity in Englewood, and have been held for the last four years. The class I attended on a recent Saturday was taught by Lauren Daniel, a yoga teacher and Thai massage therapist. Daniel led a dozen attendees of all ages in a kundalini and yin yoga practice, starting with upper body stretches and leading into moves that opened up the hips. Given in a calm and affirming voice, Daniel’s instructions were accessible to beginners, and she offered additional options for more of a challenge. We concluded the class with breathing exercises and a few minutes of meditation. Attendance at classes was spotty at first but has been great in 2018, Daniel said; sometimes, the room is do full so that no one can open the door, show up on time for a guaranteed spot. I Grow Chicago also offers Monday classes at its Peace House on 64th and Honore. If you attend ten classes and have teachers sign off on a card, you get a free T-shirt. (Mari Cohen) Saturdays at Kusanya Cafe, 825 W. 69th St. 11:30am. Mondays at I Grow Chicago Peace House, 6402 S. Honore St. Noon. Free. (312) 286-7392. igrowchicago.org
BEST UNSANCTIONED STREET GATHERING
Mothers/Men Against Senseless Killings (MASK) “We aren’t church, but showing daily faith in the community to come together doesn’t get more ‘faith-based’ than this,” says Tamar Manasseh, founder of Mothers (and Men) Against Senseless Killings. This summer, I joined a stream of pilgrims who enjoyed MASK’s warm fellowship, charismatic leadership, soulful music, and the indispensable fiber of American congregational life: ample potlucking and cooking out. My first time on the block at 75th and Stewart, a retired firefighter passed by the lot, conferred with Manasseh about her vision, and returned in a vintage fire truck blasting gospel music. This was but one of MASK’s daily signs and wonders. The gospel of MASK has been recorded in WGN, ABC, PBS, WBEZ, Reuters, the Tribune, the Sun-Times, Good Housekeeping Magazine, and in Manasseh’s op-eds in the New York Times. The miraculous claim: salving Chicago’s intractable gun violence, creating peace through the presence and commitment of community members, of mothers and neighbors. As MASK increasingly declares itself “a movement,” its vision of recognizing, nourishing, and engaging the young people Manasseh calls her “street dudes” has become more expansive. Manasseh’s project has become an explicit indictment of the city that killed Laquan McDonald and continues to deprive and lock up Black and brown youth; hope and trust in that Chicago has crumbled, so MASK will create their own networks of community and education through ingenuity and sweat equity. MASK has been stymied in its attempts to purchase the city-owned half of the lots they occupy through the Large Lots Program, though it should be easy, given that they are already stewards of the land. This summer, while MASK provided daily sanctuary for out-of-school youngsters, tension has grown around the Englewood
peacemakers. At the beginning of August, CPD deployed hundreds of additional cops. Manasseh warns of pending misunderstanding and violence, and urgently live-streams from the block to broadcast the sensory overload of over-policing to hundreds of online viewers. In the world centered on 75th and Stewart, CPD Superintendent Eddie Johnson’s announcement of a city-wide crackdown on block parties and street gatherings, signaled, at the least, a failure to notice the effectiveness of MASK’s “block hugging” and perhaps even a retaliation against Manasseh’s increasingly pointed public commentary. MASK embraced their new status as an “Unsanctioned Street Gathering,” and continued to congregate daily on the block, and Manasseh returned to the pages of the New York Times, pointing her finger at CPD. At the end of the summer, they held a show-stopping back to school party with horseback rides, a mechanical bull, live performances, and a giveaway of school uniforms and supplies. At the back-to-school bash, I sat on the sidewalk eating Cheetos, engrossed in the comedy of children slipping from the mechanical bull as its teenage attendant tickled the controls. Suddenly, a young girl came running up to give me a hug—I had painted her face the last time I visited MASK. Police came two times, but ultimately didn’t break up the party. The best of MASK is not the spectacle, but the congregation and the genuine human connections that germinates there. (Kirsten Ginzky) 7500 S. Stewart Ave. 4pm–8pm every day during CPS summer break. Follow Mothers Against Senseless Killings on Facebook for updates and off-season events. ontheblock.org
BEST DECEPTIVELY PLENTIFUL BBQ SAUCE
Taylormade Que
Last summer, Taylormade Que caught the attention of Englewood residents during its grand opening. The establishment—blasting music throughout the day while serving up delicious jerk and chicken tacos for all—was a welcome addition to the neighborhood. One year later, with new items coming to the menu regularly and prices staying put ($6.50 for three tacos), it looks like Taylormade Que is here to stay. The restaurant has evolved since it first opened. The head chef, Darrion Gill, has been actively seeking feedback and sharing his new recipes on Facebook, resulting in frequent and delicious changes to the menu. Unlike that first day, Taylormade is no longer offering its original jerk menu, however, in its wake you will find chicken wing dinners and family meal deals. In the restaurant, one sign urges you to “Be Patient… Everything is made fresh.” Anyone walking down Halsted coming from Kennedy-King or going toward the 63rd and Halsted Green Line station has smelled the grill cooking up ribs, polishes, and jerk chicken tacos. Living less than five minutes walking distance away, Taylormade Que is a new must-have. I had the small BBQ ribs, which were tender enough that the bone slid away from the meat. The BBQ sauce was housemade, like the fusion jerk sauce, but lighter than most sauces, with a texture similar to a vinaigrette. The sauce was deceptively plentiful as it made its way through the meat to the fries. (Everything comes with fries.) Spending less than ten dollars and ending my meal by licking the wax paper under the food has put Taylormade Que up there with Uncle Joe’s and other South Side BBQ joints. Taylormade Que sits near an intersection where you can find Checkers, White Castle, a gas station, a liquor store, and a convenience store—but Taylormade is definitely your best option. The shop offers meal deals, small and large, intended for individuals and families alike. (Cordell Longstreath) Taylormade Que, 6717 S. Halsted Ave. Monday–Thursday, 11am–10pm; Friday–Saturday, 11am–midnight. (872) 244-3616. facebook.com/TaylormadeQ
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HAPPY BEE GARDEN SERVICE
J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
BEST NOT-JUST-A-BARBERSHOP
Powell’s Barber Shop Barbershops have long served as community forums, especially in Black communities. Powell’s Barber Shop takes that legacy seriously. Plenty of haircuts are given in the red vinyl barber chairs, but owner Sunni Powell also sees his work as an opportunity to empower his neighborhood. Earlier this month, the shop gave sixty-three free haircuts to kids going back to school and gave away one hundred backpacks donated by Resident Association of Greater Englewood. A bookshelf in the shop is stocked with free books for kids. Powell hosts poetry readings and concerts. At the end of this month, he’s convening a group of barbers from across the city to talk about supporting each other’s businesses and coordinating voter registration drives in their shops. Powell is an Englewood native; his family has roots in the neighborhood going back to 1953. He’s lived in Atlanta and in LA, where he dated Kim Kimble, a celebrity hairstylist who has styled both Beyoncé and Mary J. Blige. Powell managed a shop with Kimble in West Hollywood for three years. When they broke up, Powell returned to Chicago. He saw a need for a professional barber shop in his neighborhood. So, nine years ago, he opened one. The shop was thriving in May 2016 when a man showed up and fired shots into it, killing one patron and wounding another. “That just changed everything,” Powell said. With the shop now associated with violence, business fell. Typically, it would have been time to close the shop and “go on to your next dream,” he said. Instead, Powell doubled down on his mission to make the shop a positive neighborhood space. Inspired by the movie Barbershop 3, he began holding annual “ceasefire” events, bringing in student barbers to provide free haircuts. As the shop approaches its tenth birthday, Powell has big plans. The city awarded him a Retail Thrive Zone grant to build a brand-new location for the shop across the street from the current space, as well as a barber college that students can attend for free. The new shop will be cooperatively owned by its barbers. “I'm recreating myself,” Powell said. “I'm gonna build barbers like myself that are community-minded, that care more about more just cutting hair, that care about people and kids and want to be good examples.” Opening is scheduled for early next year. (Mari Cohen) Powell’s Barber Shop, 1139 W. 63rd St. Tuesday–Saturday, 9am–8:30pm; Sunday, 10am– 5pm; closed Mondays. (773) 306-1812. facebook.com/powells-barber-shop
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BACK OF THE YARDS
FAR SOUTHEAST SIDE
Compiled by Ben Handy
KIRAN MISRA
BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANT ON THE INDIANA BORDER
BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DIVE BAR & GRILL
El Charro de San Francisco
Jovial Club
Eight blocks west of Indiana’s northwest corner is El Charro de San Francisco, a Mexican restaurant with a family-friendly vibe decorated with neon-colored sombrereros and mariachi regalia. The food, fresh and lovingly prepared, will remind you of your abuela’s cooking. Don’t miss the locally famous horchata, which is always freshly made, rich, sweet, and creamy. (Ben Handy) El Charro de San Francisco, 3655 E. 106th St. Monday–Thursday, 9am–11:30pm; Friday–Saturday, 9am–1:30am; Sunday, 8am–12:30am. (773) 734-3584. eastsidecharro. com
The Jovial Club is an improbable holdover from this region’s steel mill past; it reflects a time when many family-style banquet halls hopscotched their way along the steel coast between the Far South Side and Gary. Though each was unique, these establishments commonly served tasty, no-nonsense dinners to mill workers and their families. At Jovial, proprietor Caroly Spelich maintains a homey atmosphere, just like her mom before her, while serving up baskets of perfectly fried catfish and artisanal beers with hip names like “Old Style” and “Miller.” (Ben Handy) Jovial Club, 9615 S. Commercial Ave. Wednesday–Friday and Sunday, 11am–2am; Saturday, 11am–3am; Closed Monday and Tuesday. (773) 375-1203
BEST VEGETARIAN PILGRIMAGE SPOT
BEST GREASY SPOON
Mark’s Produce
Thomas Restaurant
This place needs to be squarely on the radar of every vegan, vegetarian, or lover of fresh, healthy food. Located in a small brick cottage within view of the glitzy Horseshoe Casino, Mark’s Produce is packed to the rafters with fruit and vegetables. Mark and his team scour area fruit and vegetable markets, finding incredible deals so that you don’t have to. Everything is fresh, but may be cosmetically blemished, and you never know quite what will be “on offer,” making a trip to Mark’s a real adventure…in savings! The staff is always attentive and helpful, and they provide carry-out assistance to your car. You’ll need it: twenty dollars here goes a long way. (Ben Handy) Mark’s Produce: Fruit & Vegetable Store, 1464 Indianapolis Blvd., Whiting, IN. 9am–5pm every day. (219) 659-2080.
So deeply steeped in tradition that it has become the official “unofficial” diner of Calumet Heights, Thomas Restaurant is a favorite meeting spot for many a local politician or business figure. The venerable dive has been serving up solidly prepared American favorites, from cheeseburgers to turkey club sandwiches, since 1963. The best time to visit is for breakfast. The best side is the hand-carved ham. The lighterthan-air pancakes and waffles are legendary here, and so is the waitresses’ banter. (Ben Handy) Thomas Restaurant, 1657 E. 87th St. Monday and Wednesday–Saturday, 6am–4pm; Sunday, 7am–1:45pm; Closed Tuesday. (773) 731-8227 SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 35
GAGE PARK Compiled by Jocelyn Vega AMBRIEHL CRUTCHFIELD
BEST OF GAGE PARK? MEET MI TITA, MARIA LARA Walking down the street in Gage Park with mi Tita—mi abuelita—Maria Lara, we always meet a friend, whether it’s inside of a corner store, across the street, or at a yard sale. Mi Tita arrived in Chicago in the mid nineties, and settled into Gage Park with mis tias y tios (my aunts and uncles) the year I was born. “Of course I remember that year, it’s like a dream. A dream we just live; life is just a dream we live,” she explained after I asked about her first memories living in Gage Park and meeting newborn me in her new community that year. I can’t think of Gage Park sin (without) mi Tita. One hand carried her purse, and the other my hand, as I followed her during errands and home visits with friends or family at an early age. I always thanked her with the biggest hug possible after she bought me food my heart craved for, but was too shy to ever ask for knowing it cost money. Today, we still hold hands as we walk across the neighborhood to get where we need to be. There are always a handful of people we know along our path. Individual community members come from different streets, memories, and relationships with mi Tita, but are drawn together in these moments by a willingness to connect. These moments of connection and conversation are far from gestures—they are simply genuine, full of care and awareness. These are conversations where speaking for yourself supports someone else’s voice, whether it’s on the steps of your neighbor’s home or the sidewalk outside 36 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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of St. Gall. These conversations provide a tremendous source for mediation, validation, and encouragement for many. These conversations are a lived tradition of Gage Park. I have listened and grown from these conversations as I became the young adult I am today. Mi Tita and community members actively demonstrate that conversations can all help us find where we are, or might be, in our day or lives. Sharing helps us find each other. After leaving for four years and returning home last fall, I am guided by mi Tita to hold on to connections as the very paths shaping and giving meaning to our embedded lives. Gracias Tita por apoyarme en viviendo mi mejor vida. (Thank you Tita for guiding me to live my best life.) Mi Tita agreed to be interviewed about the neighborhood and some of her favorite places, resulting in the Bests included in this section. Mi Tita doesn’t dive into details to contextualize her choices, insisting “a place speaks for itself.” At the end of the interview, I had just one final question: “Tita, how would you describe your neighborhood?” With an air of ease, mi Tita responded, “Esta bien” (It is good). “Because everything is close?” I joked. “Everything is close. That’s what I’m telling you, everything is what you can walk,” affirmed mi Tita. Everything is close in Gage Park, truly: people, conversations, places. We both started laughing after she added on, “This is why I don’t want to go anywhere else.”
GAGE PARK
LAS MEJORES CECINAS QUE ESTÁ CERCA (BEST CECINAS THAT ARE CLOSE)
AMBRIEHL CRUTCHFIELD
Las Brisas del Mar and La Quebrada La Brisas del Mar “I like it because it’s close,” stated mi Tita after I asked why she liked this spot. She wondered why I needed to ask follow up questions when she already gave her full answer. She paused to then share, “I eat the cecina. It’s what I get. It’s what I like there the most.” “It has been here for a lot of time. A lot of time it’s been here. A lot of time,” she explained and added it hasn’t changed and doesn’t need to. “This is where I can walk to and go,” clarified mi Tita. If you ever need to use an event space, ask to check out their decked-out salon underneath the restaurant, where I’ve attended—with mi Tita and independently—birthday parties, quinceaneras, and even a wedding. Las Brisas Del Mar, 3207 W. 51st St. Open daily, 8am–11pm. (773) 434-5040. La Quebrada Mi Tita always took me to this spot whenever I was back in town from upstate New York these past four years. We could talk for hours, but food always came first. Usually, we came straight here after I was picked up from either the airport or Amtrak. La Quebrada was where I landed with a deep hunger for recipes, textures, and spice far from Ithaca, New York. I’ve gone with friends to La Quebrada when we
needed a torta to nourish us for a long bike ride to, up, and down the Lakefront Trail during hot summer days. We only needed a single torta, with no sides, thanks to the generous portions of meat, avocado, veggies, and cheese that filled each bite. However, mi Tita changed my life when she introduced one of their specialty plates: Cecina estilo Guerrero. I’ve had cecina before, but it was the mixture of missing home, lacking quality ingredients for months, and a wrenching hunger that made this absolutely my favorite meal in and outside of La Quebrada after that day. Cecina estilo Guerrero has pieces of thinly sliced steak cooked with tradition. Its unique flavor eases the pace at which you eat as you savor each bite. Bright guacamole and shredded lettuce sit next to the meat, waiting to be picked up and placed into the warm stack of homemade tortillas. The tortillas themselves, with salsa, lime, and a pinch of salt, can be an entire meal on their own. Tortillas move from one hand to one another; usually more are needed midway through our meal. With tortillas, there are no forks needed. Make sure you also order a chile asado (roasted chile), I always order two, or three. Each bite is prolonged with conversations that bring mi Tita, my family, and I together after being separated for months. There have been times where every single plate at the table was Cecina estilo Guerrero. There’s a lot more that La Quebrada offers, but there’s nothing else I could want because Cecina estilo Guerrero is more than a meal. ( Jocelyn Vega) La Quebrada Restaurant, 5100 S. California Ave. Sunday–Thursday, 8:30am–9pm; Friday–Saturday, 8:30am–10pm. (773) 737-4575.
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GAGE PARK
EL MEJOR IGLESIA QUE ESTÁ CERCA (BEST CHURCH THAT IS CLOSE)
EL MEJOR TIENDA QUE ESTÁ CERCA (BEST STORE THAT IS CLOSE)
St. Gall Catholic Church
Carniceria La Hacienda
It’s been over twenty years since mi Tita started attending St. Gall, but it took her awhile to realize it wasn’t instead ten or fifteen years after she first answered my question. “Yup, this is why I’m telling you. I’ve been there for a long time,” she said. “I like going there because it’s close. Well... Yes, it’s close. I can go walking because it’s that close. I can just go walking, meaning, that I don’t need anyone to take me. I like it because that’s my motivation. I like that I can go and just go when I want.” Throughout the week, she finds herself attending service and various events because she feels at home, especially seeing families she has seen grow over the years. For some time, mi Tita was a first communion teacher and experienced the joy of waking up and working with some of the youngest community members. She describes her routine now as, “First, you go to church right in the morning [on Sundays], and then you can go eat, and later, you go eat again, and just like that.” Mi Tita prefers the earliest service because “It’s still morning. Everyone and everything is so calm because everyone just woke up.” St. Gall is a space that stands out in my memories of home. A place where I continue to walk on Sunday mornings with mi Tita. A place where mi Tito—mi abuelito—Ricardo Lara also spent most of his time before he left this Earth two years ago. You could always catch mi Tito in front of St. Gall, waiting underneath a lush tree, behind his carrito de nieve de garrafa (cart of handmade ice cream) from México made en la casa de mis abuelitos (in my grandparents’ home). When he wasn’t home, our family knew that he was there and on his ice cream route back. After mass, you would also see a swirling line of children and their families patiently wait for him to layer each white cup with different flavors: mango, fresa (strawberry), nuez (walnut), and so many more. Flavors I can still taste but can only miss for the rest of my life. Double scoops de nieve would brim the edge of each cup from late spring to fall each year since I was a kid. I don’t have the heart to mention it to mi Tita, but I continue to see his smile and his cart standing there, knowing he’s now in another life but always with us. ( Jocelyn Vega)
When I call mi Tita, she’s always on a mission, always going where she needs to be. During the early weekdays, when I’m commuting on the Halsted Street bus, I call mi Tita to share a good morning and check in, if I don’t have the chance to see her later that day. At least once a week, she answers when she is on her way to La Hacienda (which she calls La Haciendita) pushing her carrito (shopping cart). Her carefully curated shopping list is the main point of discussion. I’m quickly reminded why I should’ve had breakfast after hearing all of her planned recipes on my bus ride. Once she arrives, she informs me it’s time for me to go and call back another time as she gives all of her attention to each item at La Haciendita. There’s no multitasking when you’re shopping at La Haciendita. “It has everything, everything. They have plates [to] gorditas.” We joked not all places have quality gorditas, but this La Haciendita “que si sirve,” (what they serve) she says—it’s worth it. La Haciendita is where you go to buy cecina to cook at home. However, to make Cecina Estilo Guerrero requires inherited skills. At this point in my life, I’m only allowed to help mi Tita unpack la cecina and other groceries or wash dishes when she’s in the kitchen. Thanks to the quality items throughout the store and conversations with the butchers, Mi Tita refuses to buy cecina, and most other items, from anywhere else. “I like it that it’s close. This way, wherever I can get to is where I am comfortable. I’m not waiting on anyone or anything. That’s the best,” confirmed mi Tita. ( Jocelyn Vega)
St. Gall Catholic Church, 5511 S. Sawyer Ave. Misa bilingue diaria (daily bilingual mass), 8:30am; Sunday/domingo: English mass (misa en ingles), 9am; Spanish mass (misa en español), 7:30am, 10:30am, 12:30pm, and 6pm. Confesiones/confessions on Saturday/ sábados, 6:30–8:30pm. (773) 737-3113. stgall.org
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Carniceria La Hacienda, 2744 W. 55th St. Monday–Saturday, 8am–7:45pm; Sunday, 8am–8pm. (773) 863-0083
The story of the Medici... The Medici Gallery and Coffee House has been a fixture of Hyde Park since 1962, when Hans Morsbach bought the spot for $1,750. In the beginning, we just sold art and coffee from a tiny shop in the back of the Green Door Bookstore. Eventually, we added pizza and hamburgers, and then a full menu, and we’ve since grown to be Hyde Park’s largest restaurant. Over the years, we’ve been a lot of things to a lot of people. We’ve been a hippie haven, a student hang-out and a latenight urban oasis for generations of south siders. During the sixties, the Medici was a hotbed of anti-war activity (the Conspiracy Seven hung out here) which made our restaurant unpopular among more conservative neighbors. We’ve changed a lot over the years, but a devoted staff and commitment to good food and service remains the same. The majority of what we serve is made from scratch by people who care. We are proud to be locally owned, environmentally friendly, and socially responsible. The Medici restaurant today is a place for thought and discussion. We’ve served a future president, and we’ve employed actors, directors, musician, cartoonists, and all sorts of other artists. It’s a place where we showcase the artwork of our employees and the artwork of Matisse. It’s a place where everything you see on our walls has a story.
SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 39
HYDE PARK & KENWOOD
LIZZIE SMITH
Susan O’Connor Davis is the founder of the Kenwood Improvement Association. Portions of this article were originally published in O’Connor Davis’ book Chicago’s Historic Hyde Park.
I
n 1983, Hyde Park resident Saul Bellow offered up his perspective on the city we call home: “Chicago builds itself up, knocks itself down again, scrapes away the rubble and starts over. European cities destroyed in war were painstakingly restored. Chicago does not restore; it makes something wildly different. To count on stability here is madness. A Parisian can always see the Paris that was, as it has been for centuries…. But a Chicagoan as he wanders about the city feels like a man who has lost many teeth.” Urban renewal in the 1950s and 60s did knock out a few teeth, but architecturally, at least, a full eighty percent of the historic structures in Hyde Park and Kenwood survived that process and remain to grace our streets. They represent a history that was sometimes turbulent, but the Hyde Park community has welcomed many different people into its fold.
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Here lived politicians who fought against slavery and for the advancement of civil rights. Inventors and scientists, suffragettes and servants, carpenters and cattlemen have all called Hyde Park and Kenwood home. Today it is a tolerant community, resilient and hopeful. It has seen the effects of depression and war. It has endured civil strife. It has housed rich and poor. From south of the 31st Street beach where the race riots of 1919 began, to the corner where Lincoln lingered for a quiet evening to escape the turmoil of the Civil War; from the vacant lots of 47th Street where commerce once flourished, to shuttered churches; from the restored mansions of Chicago’s wealthy industrialists to wide boulevards filled with family barbecues on hot summer days—there is a complex layering to life here, richly regarded. To walk our streets is a special experience. For the architecture and the history has the capacity to teach us humility, and to increase an awareness and appreciation of our collective surroundings.
HYDE PARK & KENWOOD
BEST REDEMPTION SMOOTHIE Carver 47 Tucked away off 47th and Greenwood in Kenwood arts center Little Black Pearl, a vibrant mural washes across the wall. Among the reds, blues, and purples sits a figure memorialized in gold: George Washington Carver, the namesake of Carver 47. The café might share its farm-boutique aesthetic with upscale juice and smoothie bars in Lincoln Park or Lakeview, but that’s where the similarity stops. The menu is extensive for the café’s size—there’s breakfast, which features buttermilk biscuits alongside larger, more hearty options like the “Farm Stack,” composed of a waffle topped with egg, cheddar, sausage, and maple syrup. There are sandwiches, salads, and flatbreads, all featuring local ingredients, but it’s the smoothies and juices that make the café shine. There’s the “Front Porch,” with strawberries, banana, vanilla, mint, cranberry, and yogurt, and the “Orchard,” which features orange, carrot, ginger, mango, strawberry, pineapple, and coconut milk, and then the “Redemption,” which lives up to its name with banana, strawberries, cherries, raspberries, acai berry powder, and almond milk. But Carver 47 isn’t just an (absolutely delicious) café. According to the owners, its name is a deliberate attempt to live in the tradition of George Washington Carver, a Black scientist, botanist, and early environmentalist. The café attempts to promote Carver’s philosophy on sustainability and agriculture by creating synergy between plant life and the space, according to assistant manager Justin Redding. And plants occupy an important role at Carver 47, with a garden patio and seedlings lining the western wall. The sense of synergy is tangible in the café, not just in the menu but in the environment. “We’re trying to be a space where people can come, communicate, work, or whatever,” said Redding. “Everything is wooden and rustic, you feel like you can be one with most of the materials.” According to crew member Kiko Spears, the environment of the café is hardly an accident. “The inside really brings forth this natural, authentic experience. [We] want you to feel comfortable and at home,” said Spears. “The incense, the plants, the art is very specific.” “Let’s say you’ve been away from home. When you come home, you know that it’s home by the way that it feels. You feel stable, you feel secure, you feel sane, and the food is intentional. It’s built to heal. Fresh, things are natural and take a while to make because they’re fresh. It’s relaxing, spontaneous, and also intense.” Carver 47, which has only been around for a year, has placed integration with the community at its forefront. The café has two gallery spaces inside and also plans to host open mics, according to the website. And while the goals of Carver 47 are hardly simple, it succeeds—the tables, menu, and kindness of the staff all work to create a sense of community and comfort. (Clyde Schwab) Carver 47, 1060 E. 47th St. Monday–Friday, 7:30am–6pm; Saturday–Sunday, 10am– 4pm. (773) 690-5517. blackpearl.org/carver-47
BEST OFFSHORE BIODIVERSE SHIPWRECK Morgan Shoal In my first year of college, my friends and I would jump in the lake during the start and end of classes every year. On a hot summer day, during sunsets, on a dare during the middle of winter—there is a sense of distinction in being able to swim in water that edged a timeless, magnificent skyline. Just as timelessly, this fifth-largest lake in the world, one that twelve million people live along, has always been layered by sand and mud. That is, except for our very own spot, about 300 feet off of 49th Street Beach: Morgan Shoal, a thirty-twoacre dolomite limestone shelf, between three and ten feet deep depending where you stand, created hundreds of millions of years ago by glacial carvings. In 1914, the Silver Spray ran aground on this limestone sheet and sank. The passenger steamer, which is still viewable from 49th Street Beach, was on its way to pick up a group of University of Chicago students for a tour of some steel mills in Indiana. What does this mean? Morgan Shoal is home to a unique ecology of fish, invertebrates, and plants. Mussels filter the water, algae sits on rocks, and plants sprout from the ship. Not much fieldwork has been done on the shoal, but during the winter of 2016, researchers from the Shedd Aquarium identified fifteen species of fish. Invasive quagga mussels are abundant, as are longnose suckers, a threatened fish species in Illinois. In 2015, Hyde Parker Greg Lane, a daily open water swimmer, told the Hyde Park Herald that he has explored the shoal 1,000 times over the last seven years. "To this day, every single time I swim out there, it is breathtaking,"he said. "You feel like you’re flying over the Grand Canyon. There are ridges and ravines and canyons and cliffs. The rock is just ever-changing…you can see the marks of the glaciers that moved over the bedrock fifteen, fourteen thousand years ago and created the lake itself.” Chicagoans should, and do, jump in the lake all up and down the lakefront, but they would do well to remember to visit this unlikeliest of snorkeling destinations along the edge of a magnificent skyline. (Yao Xen Tan) Morgan Shoal. 41.8093786, -87.5823515. Swim out from 49th Street Beach.
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HYDE PARK & KENWOOD
BEST DAY SPA
can be had for a meager $1) and fresh. But the real coup is the back garden: pass through that scuffmarked, too-narrow hallway, and you’ll find yourself in the shade of a breezy back garden, complete with wobbly metal picnic tables—the perfect place to enjoy a fall sandwich. (Christopher Good)
Bettye O This find started with a personal quest for the best manicure. Unfortunately, I endured a never-ending list of mediocre manicures in nail salons citywide. Having been a licensed cosmetologist for many years, I am acutely aware of the mark of a fine manicure. The predominantly Asian-staffed salons embedded into predominantly Black neighborhoods mainly focus on artificial nail services and neglect the classic manicure service. Nevertheless, these shops keep a steady stream of business. It’s just not my cup of tea. I prefer a warm sudsy soak, nails filed in one direction to prevent tears, a gentle cleaning beneath the free-edge, cuticle maintenance, and a scrub—all done with sanitized or single-use implements—before a hand massage and nail color. And never, ever ask me to leave the chair to go wash my hands in some far away sink. (Sigh!) Now that I’ve got that out, please know I have rediscovered a Hyde Park mainstay that has withstood the test of time, where you will enjoy not only a proper manicure, but also the absolute best in the full-service day spa experience. Bettye O Day Spa, originally located at the corner of 52nd and Harper, celebrates forty years of stellar service this year, now located at 1424 East 53rd Street in suite 304. Part of what makes the Bettye O experience so outstanding is Bettye Odom: her education, experience, and expertise are key to the variety of services she and her staff offer. Odom’s innovative skin care has been informed by her studies in France, at Fisk University, and in the nursing program at Meharry Medical College, as well as her service as a First Lieutenant in the U.S Army Nurse Corps. The Bettye O Day Spa menu offers dozens of facial, body, and nail treatments to address most every skin care concern. Customized treatments, add-ons, and spa packages are also available. New clients receive a detailed skin analysis to determine which treatments and products are recommended. The spa uses a mix of prestige specialty products and products from their own line, Skins of Colour. The décor is that of a traditional luxury spa, with warm soothing colors, plush floor length flowing draperies, and glowing candles. And the smell…ahh… you know that fresh, clean, relaxing spa smell—it is the beautiful smell you can only get when you are not inhaling poisonous acrylic nail powder. Then there is the calming quiet that may just put you gently to sleep. There are no screaming babies. There is no blaring music nor ringing cell phones, just tranquil spa sounds. I love this place. If you’ve never had the Bettye O experience, you’re in for a treat. If you haven’t had the Bettye O experience in long time, you’ll remember what you have been missing. Call or book online soon. Their schedule fills up fast. (Nicole Bond) Bettye O Day Spa, 1424 E. 53rd St., suite 304, Tuesday–Friday, 10:30am–6:15pm; Saturday, 10:30am–3:30pm. (773) 752-3600. bettyeodayspa.com
BEST MVP SANDWICH SPOT
Cafe 53 Café 53—which may very well be one of the only café left in Hyde Park with a chalkboard menu—brings sandwiches, salads, ice cream, and more to 53rd Street. The decor has its charm (eggshell-yellow walls and pink marbled tables, which faintly resemble slabs of meat), but it’s the vegan, vegetarian, and halal options—especially the garlic chicken sandwich, vegan or otherwise—that keep regulars coming back. The offerings are affordable (iced coffee clocks in just over $2, spanakopita triangles
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Café 53, 1369 E. 53rd St. Sunday–Thursday, 8am–9pm; Friday and Saturday, 8am– 10pm. (773) 493-1000. cafe-53.com
LIZZIE SMITH
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LITTLE VILLAGE & MARSHALL SQUARE J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
BEST MASSIVE, ENDLESSLY AMAZING THRIFT SHOP
Village Discount Outlet
J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
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“It’s kind of like Goodwill, if you stacked three of them on top of each other” is the way I described the Little Village location of Village Discount Outlet to a friend. Located on the corner of 26th Street and Pulaski Road, Village Discount is a neighborhood favorite and a valuable resource, hocking everything from vintage blazers to even more vintage exercise equipment. Allow me to conduct the grand tour. It would be overly simplistic to say that the first floor is just women’s and kids’ clothing—it is so much more than meets the eye. Where else can you affordably buy new back-to-school outfits, quinceañera dresses, and winter coats all in one go? Though the store may seem overwhelming at first, each section is organized by clothing type, size, and color and clearly delineated by hanging aisle signs, so you’ll never get too lost in the warehouse-like premises. Once you’ve begun curating an entirely new wardrobe, take a trip to the second floor and you’ll find racks of men’s clothing, more kids’ clothing, and an array of kitchen supplies, framed artwork, vintage children’s toys, board games, and electronics. At one point, I was perusing the color-coordinated shelves of glassware and spotted, nestled between a glass bottle and a pink vase, what was clearly a watercolor bong. If that’s not a true testament to the breadth of Village Discount’s wares, I don’t know what is. The third and final floor is where you’ll likely garner the most savings. Are you mentally preparing yourself for the onset of winter? Pick up a used treadmill, rowing machine, or stationary bike today and preempt your strongest couch-potato tendencies. Or maybe just give in entirely—Village Discount offers an entire row of comfortable armchair and sofa options, any of which you could hibernate in until spring comes around. Rounding out the floor are bicycles (“No bike riding allowed in the store,” indicates one sign), sporting equipment, books, vinyl records, magazines, and a significant selection of desks, bookshelves, coffee tables, and wardrobes.
LITTLE VILLAGE & MARSHALL SQUARE Whether you’re a habitual bargain shopper or a thrifting novice, Village Discount Outlet truly offers something for everyone. The hunt is half the fun, so skip the Targets of the world and experience the serendipity of a good discovery. (Taylor Moore) Village Discount Outlet, 4020 W. 26th St. Monday–Saturday, 9am–9pm; Sunday, 10am– 6pm. (866) 545-3836 (main office). villagediscountoutlet.com
BEST FUSION TACOS
El Taco Azteca
The moment that my waitress refilled my horchata for free, I knew that the restaurant had unwittingly made me a customer for life. El Taco Azteca sits at the border between Little Village and Pilsen, in the Heart of Chicago, minutes away from the Western and Damen Pink Line stops. Outside, a colorful mural advertises “Gourmet Tacos” in a swirly font, while the interior features a chalkboard wall at the bar and tabletops supported by tree stumps. In the dining room, Mexican artwork adorns the walls and hand-painted ceramics sit on the tables. In true fusion style, El Taco Azteca manages to plant its feet in both the traditional and hipster realms of the Little Village restaurant scene. Once seated, you’re immediately served a basket of tortilla chips, fried plantains, and yuca with the house salsa, which was deliciously creamy and smoky. The restaurant eschews typical accompaniments like beans and rice, focusing primarily on their namesake tacos. The one that attracted this curious writer was the arabe taco. Invented by Middle Eastern immigrants—believed to be Lebanese—in the Mexican city of Puebla during the 1930s, this taco is comprised of marinated pork and chipotle salsa on a homemade flour tortilla. Equal parts smoky and spicy, juicy and tender, the arabe taco is out-of-this-world good. In lieu of your typical onions and cilantro, the taco is garnished with dressed arugula and pickled onions to balance out the pork’s strong flavor. These small touches elevate the dining experience and remind you just how much care El Taco Azteca puts into its food. They don’t sleep on the classics either. The al pastor is flavorful and juicy, with the pineapple hitting just the right notes of sweetness. And the chunky guacamole ranchero, which features chicharrón (fried pork skin), cubed panela cheese, red jalapeños, and smoked guajillo salsa, will leave you wishing you had more than one stomach. (Taylor Moore)
BEST GRASSY KNOLL
Stretch of Marshall Boulevard Cermak—often smoggy, loud, and generally rather terrible—is not exactly a pleasant street to walk down. But if you do happen to find yourself taking a stroll down Cermak going west from California, push yourself just a tad further. You’ll find one of the best hidden gems in the city: the Marshall Boulevard grassy knoll. Nestled between Cermak and 24th Boulevard, this beautiful mini-park is a tree-covered treat in a heavily concreted area. Children play with one another, older folks walk their pups, and neighbors at large munch on delicious snacks scattered throughout the stretch (including some delicious zesty mango and occasionally paletas to match). There’s even a coffee shop on the corner to grab an iced beverage before taking a seat in the nice, cool grass andwatch the cars and people glide by. (Bridget Newsham) Marshall Boulevard between Cermak and 24th Blvd. Open all the time, but best enjoyed before noon, after 5pm on weekdays, and all day weekends.
El Taco Azteca, 2151 W. Cermak Rd. Sunday–Thursday, 10am–10pm; Friday and Saturday, 10am–midnight. (773) 247-1103. ordereltacoazteca.com
BEST PALETAS DE MAMEY
Paleteria Los Magos
If you have a craving for paletas, hop on the nearest Pink Line train and head to Paleteria Los Magos, located just two blocks south of the 18th Street stop. The shop offers all sorts of frozen single-serve novelties, from ice cream bars shaped like cartoon characters to neon-striped popsicles. Skip all of those and look at the menu posted on the wall next to the cashier, listing the available paletas de agua and paletas de leche. Paletas de agua are brightly colored and refreshing, perfect for a hot summer’s day: try the piña, yellow-orange with chunks of pineapple studded throughout. For something more decadent, pick a few of the leche: the nuez—butter pecan—is wonderfully sweet, with ground nuts clustered around the popsicle stick for a tantalizing texture. To my delight, Los Magos carries my favorite flavor, mamey—ice cream made from an enormous Cuban and Central American fruit that’s sometimes the only thing sweet enough to satisfy my sugar cravings. When I took a bite, I cursed and thought to myself, ‘This is it, folks: this is the best frozen mamey treat I have ever had.’ As I ate, small specks of orange from the blended fruit—shone through the light pink of the paleta. We don’t deserve something this beautiful or delicious. Los Magos is open fourteen hours a day, every day of the week. Go grab a paleta, or three, or five. ( Jasmine Mithani) Paletería Los Magos, 1700 W. 19th St. Open daily, 8am–10pm. (312) 566-6508. facebook. com/PaleteriaLosMagos \ SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 45
MCKINLEY PARK Compiled by Josh Falk
SAM SCHMIEG
BEST ITALIANATE MANSION Dupont-Whitehouse House The Dupont-Whitehouse mansion is tucked away on a quiet block in McKinley Park. But once you’ve turned down Artesian Street, it’s unmissable, dwarfing its one-story neighbors. The s-curved brackets holding up the roof, which help give the mansion its distinctly Italianate flavor, immediately draw the eye. The roof ’s purple eaves jut over the geometric green and gold cornice. Patches of the building’s original brick are visible, though much of it is covered with concrete. A 2014 article in Chicago Patterns described this ornate mansion as “the house that gunpowder built,” nodding to its 1875 origin story: the house was built at 36th and Western by the DuPont explosives company for its plant superintendent Junot Whitehouse, who had requested a “small house.” It was designed by the firm of architect Oscar Cobb. In 1920, when a different company acquired the land, the house was saved from demolition and moved to its current location on Artesian a few blocks away. While it is officially—though just barely—located inside the McKinley Park boundaries, the mansion was once home to John McCaffrey, known as the father of adjacent neighbor-
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hood Brighton Park. The mansion was designated an official landmark in 1996. By the early 21st century, the house had fallen into disrepair. A 2011 post on the blog “Crib Chatter” asked readers “Do you have the vision to save this house?” after the then-owner put it up for sale when the recession foiled his renovation plans. (That owner had already done significant work on the mansion, including adding the curved brackets.) The price eventually dropped to $190,000. It’s evident, however, that someone did have that vision. Public records indicate the house was sold in 2012, and it now bears unmistakable signs of life: windows and doors are no longer boarded; the grass is cut; furniture is visible inside; a car is parked out back. Long live the Dupont-Whitehouse House! (Mari Cohen) Dupont-Whitehouse House, 3558 S. Artesian Ave.
MCKINLEY PARK
BEST-LAID PLAN
McKinley Park Neighborhood Plan
J. MICHAEL EUGENIO
BEST MOVIE RENTAL AND SPECIALTY MICROWAVE POPCORN Video Strip
“Some people bring their kids here, like it’s a museum, to show them how you used to get movies,” says Manuel, who has been coming in since he was a kid himself. He has now worked there for five years (and is the only employee aside from owner Joe Trutin). Manuel’s taste in films is as wide ranging as the store’s collection—he admits that he’s seen The Emoji Movie more times than he’s seen The Godfather. The Video Strip is one of the last remaining neighborhood video stores in Chicago, with a broad selection of video games, DVDs, and blu-rays—including extensive television, wrestling, horror (“probably our most popular”), and Asian film collections. While they have lost some customers to Netflix, many who once abandoned the shop for streaming have been coming back. They’ve also been picking up a few new customers every week that turn into regulars. Some customers even come by just to pick up some POP figurines or the shop’s specialty microwave popcorns (their flavors include ghost pepper, sriracha, habanero, kettle corn, barbecue, and chile lime). In general they serve neighborhood residents, but with the dwindling amount of rental stores, some people come in from the suburbs and North Side seeking the serendipity found in poring over DVD covers. Plus: they deliver. ( J. Michael Eugenio)
McKinley Park has a lot going for it. As the McKinley Park Development Council noted in its application for a Chicago Metropolitan Agency for Planning (CMAP) grant last year, the neighborhood’s strengths include “a relatively low crime rate,” “affordable, owner-occupied housing stock,” “easy and well-utilized transit,” and “a beautiful, beloved park.” But, the proposal said, McKinley Park faces challenges, too, including a scarcity of housing units and retail and gathering spaces and an unemployment higher than that of the city as a whole. For these reasons, the council proposed a neighborhood plan to unite various development efforts in a central, community-driven process, with the hope of increasing jobs and bringing in new amenities and services while avoiding gentrification. CMAP awarded the grant, and the eighteen-month McKinley Park Neighborhood Plan is now underway, with an expected conclusion in 2020. The plan’s current phase involves assessing the neighborhood’s conditions and seeking input from neighborhood residents. According to McKinley Park Development Council President John Belick, response to the plan has been positive so far, and meetings have been well attended. Belick, who was born and raised in the neighborhood and watched a lot of businesses leave, is particularly excited about the plan’s efforts to make use of empty buildings in the central manufacturing district and increase retail options on the 35th street corridor. He encouraged as many residents as possible to get involved: “We’re always looking for people to come out and help and offer their opinions.” (Mari Cohen) McKinley Park Neighborhood Plan. Visit bit.ly/mckinleyparkplan to learn more, see upcoming events, and fill out a community survey.
BEST EYE-OPENING GORDITAS
Gorditas La Tia Susy I’ll be the first to admit: gorditas are not my Mexican restaurant go-to. Or should I say, they weren’t—Gorditas La Tia Susy has opened my eyes to the joys of the small stuffed masa pastries. I am converted thanks to the shop’s variety of fillings offered and the low price point of $3.50. The chicharrón prensado (pressed pork skin) crackles; the nopales (cactus) fill your mouth with tart, chewy strands; best of all, the decadent requesón con frijoles (ricotta cheese with beans) combines two subtle, creamy flavors so well you don’t even realize how delicious the gordita is until it’s all gone and you need to order another. Not to be missed is the homemade salsa by Edi Quiñnones, the owner’s son, made from peppers he grows. It add an incredible punch to every bite. (Sam Stecklow) Gorditas La Tia Susy. 3500 S. Western Ave. Monday–Thursday, 9am–9pm; Friday–Sunday, 9am–10pm. (872) 281-5099
The Video Strip, 3307 S. Archer Ave. Sunday–Friday, 1pm–midnight; Saturday noon–midnight. Rentals start at $2.99; unlimited memberships begin at $10.99 a month. (773) 9274307. thevideostrip.com SAM SCHMIEG
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MOUNT GREENWOOD Compiled by Josh Falk
JASON SCHUMER
Al Dugdale is a lifelong resident of Mount Greenwood and a USPS mailman in the neighborhood.
I
recall when we first moved in, it was all prairie behind us, and one time the prairie caught on fire. It was very low flames just crawling along the ground. All the neighbors came out and turned on the garden hoses.There was two old wooden houses on 115th Street where squatters lived, and after the fire they chased them out of there and they bulldozed the houses. There was a lot of farms. I think they call them truck farms. People have maybe a quarter of an acre of land and they would grow vegetables out here, and they’re just about all disappeared now. It’s fine the way it is now. The way it is now, most striking thing about it is, there’s additions on all the houses. They used to be all one story. Now they are two or three stories and they look like Frankenstein houses. 1994, that was the first summer I worked [as a mailman], was when all those people died of the heatwave. Real bad heat wave. I didn’t feel very good. I thought I was sick and then I realized it was just the heat. I just stumbled into being a mailman. I worked in factories and machine shops like that, and I was in my forties when I started. It's not a bad job. It’s nice being outside. Yeah, it’s better than working inside in one place. It's better moving around. I worked in the stockyards area, then I moved to the North Side: Lincoln Park, Wicker Park, Logan Square. I would deliver mail to all of the crime sites, like where Dillinger was shot and where the St. Valentine's Day Massacre occurred. I was always trying to get closer to home. I get to know some people very well. Some I just barely know. And what’s happening now is they’re all dying, they’re all seventy and eighty years 48 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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old. Every week there’s two or three people that are gone. Well, I didn’t think of it when I was younger, but it makes you realize it’s going to happen to us, too. This is pretty much the same as it was a hundred years ago, actually. Since Mount Greenwood was founded in the 1870s there’s been three murders in 140 years. Let that sink in for a minute: three murders in 140 years. So it’s pretty nice living here. There’s nothing to worry about. Nothing ever happens. We don’t even have fires out here anymore. (As told to Sam Stecklow)
BEST CEMETERIES TO RIDE YOUR BIKE THROUGH
Mt. Olivet and Mt. Hope Cemeteries
I’ll be the first to admit: gorditas are not my Mexican restaurant go-to. Or should I say, they weren’t—Gorditas La Tia Susy has opened my eyes to the joys of the small stuffed masa pastries. I am converted thanks to the shop’s variety of fillings offered and the low price point of $3.50. The chicharrón prensado (pressed pork skin) crackles; the nopales (cactus) fill your mouth with tart, chewy strands; best of all, the decadent requesón con frijoles (ricotta cheese with beans) combines two subtle, creamy flavors so well you don’t even realize how delicious the gordita is until it’s all gone and you need to order another. Not to be missed is the homemade salsa by Edi Quiñnones, the owner’s son, made from peppers he grows. It add an incredible punch to every bite. (Sam Stecklow) Gorditas La Tia Susy, 3500 S. Western Ave. Monday–Thursday, 9am–9pm; Friday–Sunday, 9am–10pm. (872) 281-5099.
MOUNT GREENWOOD
BEST STUDENT CHEER RIVALRY
Mother McAuley and Marist High Schools
Kilts are part of the uniform at Mother McAuley, one of the remaining all-girls Catholic high schools in the Chicago area. But at a recent volleyball faceoff with rival co-ed Catholic high school Marist, those kilts became part of a “Braveheart”-themed student section, as bagpipers led fans decked out in face war paint. The rivalry between Marist and McAuley, of which I am an alum, starts in seventh and eighth grades when younger students can shadow their potential older classmates for a day while deciding which school to choose. The schools sit just under three miles apart from each other down Pulaski Road with the fundamental difference being the gender of their student body, so students from the Catholic and public elementary schools scattered across the southland typically have their pick of a high school. (Male students can enroll at Brother Rice, an all-boys school, whose campus borders the McAuley one. Marist was all-boys until 2002.) Volleyball programs at both schools are strong, though Marist’s women’s team won its first state title in 2017 while McAuley won its fifteenth in 2016. But the student cheering sections take the rivalry up a notch. Marist’s team is represented by the Redhawk, a fierce-looking red bird. On the other end of Pulaski, McAuley’s mascot is literally a giant stuffed red M for “Mighty Macs” that students take turns wearing during the matches. McAuley’s fan base was awarded first place last year by the Illinois High School Association (the governing body of the state’s high school sports leagues) in the fourth annual “Student Section Showdown” competition, judged on sportsmanship, spirit, student body participation, and cheer originality. A student varsity club organizes the themes of each major game’s student cheer section, including “Jazzercise,” “McAuley Dads,” and the bagpiping “Braveheart.” (The seniors of the varsity club recently started a tradition of dramatically “conferring the M” to the juniors at the end of the school year.) Red and yellow, McAuley’s school colors, swarm the stands in crazy costumes, including banana suits, feather boas, and tutus. “Jesus aerobics,” a multi-part impromptu cardio routine which includes invoking the writers of the Gospel—“Matthew, Mark, Luke and John! Work the fat until it’s gone!”—are a regular performance, thanks to one of McAuley’s theology teachers. One of McAuley’s most loyal fans, Sister of Mercy Maura Lowrey, frequently makes an appearance at home games, akin to Loyola University’s legendary Sister Jean. Marist walks in. McAuley players chest bump with the M as they take the court. And the crowd—goes—wild. (Christine Schmidt) Mother McAuley Liberal Arts High School, 3737 W. 99th St. (773) 881-6550. Athletics calendar available at il.8to18.com/mothermcauleyhs Marist High School, 4200 W. 115th St. (773) 881-5367. Athletics calendar available at il. 8to18.com/marist.
BEST DEAL FOR GOOD STUDENTS
Alternate Reality
If you are, unlike I was, a very good elementary school student and live anywhere in the Chicagoland region, 111th Street comic book emporium Alternate Reality has a deal for you: for good grades on your report card, a discount up to twenty-five percent off your purchase. (The store, the South Side’s largest, offers a plethora of other deals for those of us who have advanced past the fifth grade, including bargains on new comics and “Ladies Day.”) Owner Tim Davis has operated the store since 1994, and has a history of comic-hawking going back to the now-closed Comicbook Emporium. Chances are, you’ll happily leave Alternate Reality clutching handfuls of comics that you would’ve paid more for elsewhere, pledging to return soon. (Sam Stecklow) Alternate Reality. 3149 W. 111th St. Monday, Thursday, noon–7pm; Wednesday, 7am– 7:30pm; Friday, noon–8pm; Saturday, 10am–6pm; Sunday, 10am–5pm. (773) 881-4376. myalternatereality.com
BEST HIGH SCHOOL FOR A FUTURE FARMER Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences There’s hands-on learning, and then there’s sticking your hand inside a cannula connected to a cow’s stomach to learn how it digests food. That’s the kind of experience students at the Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences get regularly. The only school of its kind in the Midwest, CHSAS offers education in six pathways—food science and technology, animal science, horticulture, biotechnology in agriculture, agricultural mechanics and technology, and agricultural finance and economics—alongside standard college prep classes in English, math, social studies, and the like. The campus is spread over seventy-eight acres, thirty-nine of which are given over to fields where three different kinds of corn grow high, among a variety of other crops. There’s a large barn where Talulah the cannulated cow lives, along with hogs, alpacas, goats, chickens, and turkeys destined to be the centerpiece of a Thanksgiving feast for elderly people in the neighborhood. There are beehives, an aquaponics room where tilapia grow and fertilize young plants, and a food science lab where I am given a small, warm loaf of zucchini bread so good, I change my mind about greens not having any place in desserts. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, you can sample the fruits of the students’ labor at the campus farmstand. In addition to produce from the fields, each of the pathways contributes something of their own. You can get a loaf of the food science students’ zucchini bread, or buy one of the sturdy Adirondack chairs made by the agricultural mechanics and technology students. When you hand over your money, it’ll be to an agricultural finance student. At CHSAS, learning doesn’t just happen inside the classroom. Around every corner is evidence of the students’ projects, from the thick white suits they wear to work with bees to stacks of firewood. It spills into the hours after school and during the summer, too. The students are all members of the Future Farmers of America, which meets after school and organizes agri-centric activities. In the summer, many participate in internship and job shadow programs at food companies or get paid to work in the school’s fields. About thirty-five percent of graduates go on to declare an agriculture-related major in college, Assistant Principal Sheila Fowler told me, though not all arrive with a strong affinity for agriculture. Paola Beltran, a senior, said that “at first I didn't want to come here. I thought it was ridiculous going to a farm school.” But once she plunged into the school’s programs, she discovered that “agriculture is in everything you do. And it’s everywhere.” After an internship in agricultural communications at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign last summer, she hopes to study it in college. “There's so much talk today about making education meaningful,” Fowler tells me, “Helping kids see the connection between what they do in school and their real lives. I think you can see that happening here.” (Rebecca Stoner) Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences, 3857 W. 111th St. Campus farmstand open Tuesdays and Thursdays, 2:30pm–5pm, and Saturdays 9am–noon. (773) 535-2500. chicagoagr.org SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 49
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PILSEN Compiled by Ellem Mayer HARRISON PARK
Ricardo Gamboa is a South Side artist, playwright, youth educator, and activist who has lived and worked in Pilsen since 1999. They are a member of Free Street Theater and the Southside Ignoramus Quartet, and the creator of the live radical news show The Hoodoisie. Their work exists outside of—and counter to—established cultural institutions and explicitly affirms the stories of Chicago’s Black and Latinx communities. Gamboa spoke with the Weekly about gentrifying forces in Pilsen and the many reasons why people fight so hard to keep them out.
I
grew up in Mount Greenwood, and my parents grew up in Pilsen and Little Village. We were the only Mexican family in Mount Greenwood at that time, so much of our life was coming back to these areas where our social networks were and where our community was. I spent every Saturday and Sunday at Harrison Park where my dad played baseball, playing with my He Man and my sister's barbies underneath the bleachers. During the week, my mom was a runner, and her running club was this old school running club called El Venados, the deers. She would be up here running during the week, so we would be up here then, too. You know, this is a neighborhood that's always felt like home in a way that no other part of Chicago has—in the way that a Mexican-American person
DENISE NAIM JASON SCHUMER
can feel at home in Chicago. When you think about neighborhoods like Pilsen and La Villita that have been predominantly Mexican American for at least a handful of decades, that presence got to be established with persistence—and through so much violence and oppression. Pilsen was named one of Forbes’s coolest neighborhoods in the world because presumably it’s become this artistic and cultural hub, when the idea is that it’s been an artistic and cultural hub. Whether it’s like the murals on the walls, or the National Museum of Mexican Art, or the graffiti—all this stuff that we’ve done for years thats been considered just those things that brown people in the hood are doing. Like the Dojo—which I think was a cool space—it opened in a way that was being considered the first DIY space in Pilsen. I was like, “Are you kidding me?” What about Southside Ignoramus Quartet? What about Decima Musa, you know what I mean? And all these other types of cultural spaces that existed that were essentially DIY spaces. But the stories that are there, and the history that is there—that’s actually what makes a community. So part of how [new] businesses factor into that is that they want to cash in on being a part of the urban edge and countercultural cool in a way
SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 51
PILSEN that exacerbates gentrification. This triangulation of real estate and art-washing and city planning all of a sudden can swoop in and obliterate those people that have worked so hard to just stay alive here and to thrive here. When we hear about school closings that are happening in Chicago, we all know how much a school is a part of a community. People’s brothers and sisters went there, and they identify with the school. Businesses work the same way. Tino’s was my parents' tailor, you know what I mean? I’m just thinking about my family friends that have had businesses up and down 18th Street. And then now all those histories are stuff for photo books, right? Like pictures that are stored in Payless shoe boxes. I think so much about Pablo Serrano, who is the founder of the People’s Stage Karaoke and a muralist. He’s used art to bring people together. The Karaoke goes up at Caminos De Michoacan and all of a sudden it’s packed, and this person that's working at Target can get up there and sing and create in a way that makes me want to cry. I think that's the stuff that we need to be celebrating—the ways in which we feel our own extraordinariness. And there's different ways of feeling that. Like when you bust open a fire hydrant and everyone runs to it. And the way the park feels when summer finally hits and it’s just full with people. Despite all the best efforts of oppressive regimes and city governance, we have found these ways to be here together and persist in a way that is really beautiful and epic and heroic. So I think for us, what we’re protecting is—it’s not some type of nativist, reactionary impulse. At a very basic level, people are trying to protect their right to have affordable housing. We’re trying to protect a history. We’re trying to protect an existing culture. A lot of people keep on saying, “Well it’s done. You can’t stop it.” But there are a lot of us that don't plan on going out without a fight. (As told to Ellen Mayer)
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BEST AFFORDABLE DROP-IN FITNESS CLASS Healthy Hood In the airy, sun-filled recreation hall of Lincoln Church, bright graffiti declares the space to be the home of Healthy Hood, a fitness and dance studio that offers classes starting at just $5. Murals by local artists depict Malcolm X, Elaine Brown, Elvira Arellano, Oscar López Rivera, Rudy Lozano, and the church’s pastor Emma Lozano. Emma’s daughter Tanya Lozano founded the gym in 2014. Its mission: to address the twenty-year life expectancy gap between underserved communities and higher-income communities. Healthy Hood grew out of a recognition that the five most common diseases affecting the surrounding community were avoidable, said Lozano, and that with lifestyle changes, the twenty-year life expectancy gap could be reduced or even prevented. Lozano started the “5 + 1 = 20” campaign to help close the gap. “Healthy Hood is the plus one,” said Lozano. “We saw that lifestyle changes are the hardest for people to do. Physical activity was the hardest. All of these components create this campaign, and the twenty years is what people would get back.” With classes in yoga, cardio kickboxing, karate, and dance, Healthy Hood addresses health disparities by approaching fitness in a community-oriented model. “Instead of making it an individualized thing where people are working out to better themselves aesthetically, they’re working out to address this life expectancy gap,” said Lozano. She added that all the instructors at Healthy Hood are people of color from underserved communities. In addition to the classes offered at Healthy Hood, a garden in the churchyard produces fresh fruits and veggies that are freely available to the community. The gym’s garden club provides healthy recipes on its website, and occasionally offers cooking classes. Stacy Erenberg lives in Pilsen and has taken Healthy Hood’s Yoga and Intro to Choreography classes. “I thought it was great that there’s a space in the neighborhood that was majority people of color and relatively body-positive,” she said. “It was a very welcoming, open, loving space. And it’s down the street from my house!” Yoga classes are not widely available on the South Side, Erenberg added. And existing classes often take place in predominantly white spaces that aren’t very welcoming to people of color. At Healthy Hood, “they also have a very explicit politic around trying to work on health disparity in communities of color,” Erenberg said. “They talk about it in class. In both classes... the teachers were very explicit about including the mission, vision, and values for new people.” Xia Xiang took the six-week Bootcamp class taught by Seobia Rivers. “[Rivers] has great energy and knows what she’s talking about,” said Xiang. “Not only did she train us physically, but also created an entire booklet with recipes full of food we should eat and how to incorporate them into our diet.” The class also had a Facebook group for the students, and Rivers did individual check-ins with them every two weeks. “It was clear that we were doing it for our best selves,” said Xiang. “It was a very empowering experience. She reminded us of the agency we had over our lives and our health.” ( Jim Daley) Healthy Hood, 2242 S. Damen Ave. Classes include Karate, Intro to Choreography, Kidz Dance, Yoga, (TRAIN) Stations. $5 drop-in fee or monthly class rates; some events free or for suggested donation. Monday–Saturday. (773) 876-0317. healthyhoodchi.com
PILSEN
MOST LOVINGLY CURATED TIRE SHOP
JASON SCHUMER
Angel’s Tire Shop If you’ve ever passed the corner of 18th and Leavitt Streets, you’ve seen Angel’s Tire Shop. Like something out of a Studio Ghibli movie, the shop sits colorfully on the corner, with its collection of art and knick-knacks spilling out from the storefront. The noise of the neighborhood seems to die down as you make your way down the sidewalk, which is piled high with any number of doodads, lawn gnomes, vintage metal tools, and other artifacts. Light catches on CDs as they hang from the trees outside of the shop, and on nice days you’ll find a chicken pecking away at a corn cob from underneath a wheelchair. Just like a normal art gallery, the tire shop is always rotating its collection. But there are also mainstays, like a dilapidated yellow Volkswagen Beetle. All of these art objects were found and collected by the shop’s owner, Angel Delgado. Delgado, who identifies as an art appreciator, points out specific pieces, such as a large, weather-beaten painting of Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa. He’s also an artist himself. Among the flower pots, used bicycles, and cement mixers, Delgado has added to the mix by painting some of the murals on the shop’s exterior. “To some people, it’s all junk, but to me it’s art,” Delgado said as he pointed out the bright yellow “Angel’s Tire Shop” sign that sits above a string of piñatas. If you share Delgado’s admiration for this art collection, you’re in luck: all the items are for sale. Of course, Angel’s doesn’t just sell art; the shop is also one of the few in Chicago that offers curbside tire changes. Those passing by can often see Delgado or one of his sons assisting customers as they pull up to the shop for a change. The shop also sells used bikes. But if you neither drive, nor bike, you still might find exactly what you need among the fantastical decorations that make Angel’s a neighborhood landmark. (Sarah Thomas)
JASON SCHUMER
Angel’s Tire Shop, 2157 W. 18th St. Monday–Sunday, 7am–7pm. In an emergency call (312) 316-8542. JASON SCHUMER
SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 53
—
Lin
BEST FAMILY SINGALONG Sones De México Music School
arts.uchicago.edu/logan/gallery
Logan Center Gallery • Reva and David Logan Center for the Arts • 915 E 60th St Chicago IL 60637
A HARD WHITE BODY
September 14
PILSENCandice PILSEN
The Sones De México Ensemble was founded at a party in Pilsen in 1994. Since then, the ensemble has released six albums of Mexican folk music, toured around the country, and received two Grammy nominations for their album Esta Tierra Es Tuya (This Land Is Your Land). Now they want to teach your kids to play guitar. When I attended the summer recital for the Sones De México Music School, I assumed it would be like the recitals of my youth: long, awkward, and full of flubs. That is not what transpired in the second floor classroom of St. Ann Church, where the school is based. Instead, the audience of parents, siblings, and abuelas was treated to a private concert with the ensemble’s co-founders. Of course, the ten students were there, too. They sat in a semicircle, each holding their own guitar. Off to one side stood the co-founders: Victor Pichardo on guitar and Juan Dies on bass ukulele (he took pains to clarify that this is not actually a Mexican instrument). Pichardo welcomed the audience in Spanish and helped each student tune their instrument. He counted off a time signature, and then he and Dies launched into song. The set list featured popular folk tunes like “Cielito Lindo” and “La Llorona,” and the families were happy to join in. The students strummed along in unison and—at their teacher’s urging—a few children sang under their breath. If some of the students struggled to keep time or make the chord changes, you could barely tell over Dies and Pichardo’s powerful voices and spirited playing. At first, I thought it was a little strange how the teachers stole the spotlight. But watching Pichardo’s animated lectures between songs, I realized that maybe the point wasn’t for each student to nail the chord changes. The point was to get parents and children in a room together to sing, learn, and share an oral tradition between them. The Sones De México Music School offers five levels of group guitar classes for kids ages nine to fourteen. Adult family members can also sign up to learn alongside their children. In fact, the school strongly encourages family registration: you’ll get an additional discount for every family member that registers as a group. All classes are taught in Spanish, and the school offers full and half scholarships for families in need. And if you, too, would like to experience a private concert with the Sones De México Ensemble, there will be another recital on December 15. (Ellen Mayer) Sones De México Education’s Mexican Music School at St. Ann Church, 1840 S. Leavitt St. Registration: $175 for 12 sessions. Discounts and scholarships available. The fall term has already begun, but families can still register through the end of September. Registration for the winter term will begin in December. (773) 728-1164. sonesdemexico.com/pilsen
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October 28
A POROUS SLIP
PILSEN
BEST FIELD-SIDE SEATS Harrison Park
It was a beautiful summer night in Pilsen and we had no plans. My partner asked, “Should we see what’s on at Harrison Park?” Usually we would head to the baseball diamond but that night it was empty. So we followed the cheers and the music to the floodlit soccer field where men in Tecate-sponsored jerseys were racing back and forth across the turf. It was a championship game for one of the many rec leagues that play at Harrison park—from football to fútbol and my favorite: Chicago’s own 16-inch softball. That night, bleachers were full of families and raucous supporters. Two different groups had brought their own speakers (one was actually a karaoke machine) and they were blasting competing tunes across the field. Children with sticky hands entertained themselves in the stands. The paleta men rang their bells from the sidelines. We didn’t know who was playing. We didn’t know the score. But it didn’t matter. It was a perfect night out at the ball game. You can have an experience like this on any given day in Harrison Park— that is until the cold weather chases us all inside. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, you can skip the Sox game and instead watch some of the most competitive softball teams in the city—both men and women—as they exchange trash talk and make breathtaking plays without the benefit of a catcher’s mitt. You don’t have to know the players or the sport. You don’t have to pay for a ticket or shell out for concessions (unless you fancy an elote). Just pack a six-pack and some peanuts, find a seat, pick a team, and cheer. (Ellen Mayer) Harrison Park, 1824 S. Wood St. Call Harrison Park Fieldhouse for schedule. (312) 7465491. chicagoparkdistrict.com/parks-facilities/harrison-park
JASON SCHUMER
BEST PATIO
‘L’ Cafecito Jumping Bean
‘L’ Cafecito Jumping Bean is an everyday kind of miracle. It occupies a small retail space inside the Damen Pink Line station—the kind of space usually reserved for chains like Dunkin’ Donuts. But Jumping Bean is not a chain. It’s a neighborhood institution, owned and operated by Pilsen local Eleazar Delgado. The original Cafe Jumping Bean on 18th Street has been around since 1994. In 2016, Delgado expanded to the Damen location with an abridged version of the café’s menu. And this, too, is a miracle: no matter the occasion, there is something on this tiny menu that will meet your need. Craving Jewish comfort food? Get a lox bagel. Feeling sick? Have a cup of soup. Hot and sweaty from a festival in Harrison Park? Get a limonada. Need some liquid courage to face the cold and grey? Café con leche, regular, no sugar. I didn’t think I could love my Cafecito more, but then summer came and brought with it another every day miracle: the patio. Normally confined to just a few square feet, the café expanded outside into the plaza on the “L” station’s north side. Now, morning dog walkers can sit with their pups and linger over coffee at one of the faded blue benches. Locals can take their lunch break outside at the long common table. And the best part is, you don’t have to buy a thing. The patio is café space, but it’s also public space—an extension of the CTA station. Anyone, not just a café customer, is welcome to find shade under the café’s bright green umbrellas, admire the impossibly tall sunflowers on the corner, and gaze north toward Harrison Park. There’s no wifi and no outlets for the workfrom-home set. But you can always bring a book, or a friend, or just your thoughts. (Ellen Mayer) ‘L’ Cafecito Jumping Bean, 2010 S. Damen Ave. Monday—Friday, 6am—7pm. Saturday—Sunday, 7am—5pm. (312) 366-2930. SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 55
PULLMAN Compiled by Adam Przybyl JASON SCHUMER
Mike McMahon is a fourth-generation Pullman resident. His great-grandmother settled in Pullman in 1928. He is the president of the Historic Pullman Garden Club. Brett Sechrist lived in a few Chicago neighborhoods before moving to Pullman in late 2015. For the past two years, he’s been renovating and restoring the house he, his wife and daughter live in.
W
hat do you get when you mix a railroad tycoon, urban planning, and an industrial revolution, sprinkle in volatile labor and civil rights relations, and add over one hundred years of preservation efforts? The Pullman National Monument Historic District. Once its own town, Pullman is locked within Chicago’s Victorian era. With so many Chicago neighborhoods evolving, Pullman is still a snapshot of life in the nineteenth century. Once deemed “The World’s Most Perfect Town,” Pullman was built as a company town for the Pullman Palace Car Company. The company, owned by magnate George Pullman, produced luxury sleeping cars for rail lines all over the world. These cars serviced your average Joes and international royalty as mass transit began to move populations to every corner of modern civilization. Pullman’s need for labor and unheard-of living conditions—indoor plumbing, gas lighting, steam heat, waste collection, and general maintenance, all provided by the Pullman Company—attracted skilled immigrants from across Europe. Running water, beautiful public parks, a recreational island, a man-made lake, and meticulously designed streetscapes were all part of Pullman’s utopian vision. A reduction in wages of factory workers in 1894 triggered a strike that escalated into a national boycott of Pullman cars. Fast forward a bit more: enter the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters, the nation’s first Black labor union. When walking the streets today (and inspecting the pristine, 130-year56 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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old row house brick), one can see the efforts of preserving this heritage. Once on the chopping block for demolition in the 1960s, residents of Pullman fought for historic landmark status to save the neighborhood. Some of these preservation warriors can still be found walking their dog, planting their garden, or strolling through Arcade Park with their grandchildren. And those accomplishments are as evident today in 2018 as they were sixty years ago. The historic Greenstone Church, Hotel Florence, and the Thomas Dunbar Home are just a few examples of still-thriving preservation efforts. The Historic Pullman Foundation, the Pullman Civic Organization, and the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency, still lead the charge in preserving Pullman. Generations of individual homeowners, home grown and new transplants alike, have been and still are the threads that maintain the historic fabric of Pullman. Most of these home’s facades have been restored to 1880s originality by residents themselves. These restored homes, along with other community assets, have been on display for forty-five years on the annual Pullman House Tour in October. Pullman has recently acquired a new ally in the fight for preservation: the National Park Service. Designated a National Monument in 2015 by then-President Barack Obama, Pullman is now part of the National Park Service. Park rangers can be seen year round giving walking tours to students and visitors. The National Park Service is the next runner in the relay race of historic preservation. Passing the baton from those community groups, the National Park Service at the Pullman National Monument will honor previous efforts as well as leading new ones to solidify the history of Pullman so not to be lost for future generations. What other neighborhoods have Park Rangers?
PULLMAN
BEST FAMILY (THAT’S NOT REALLY YOUR FAMILY)
BEST BEAUTIFICATION OF A NATIONAL MONUMENT
Excerpt from an interview with Brett The Gardens of the Historic Pullman Sechrist and Mike McMahon Garden Club Brett: We fell in love with the community. We weren’t planning on living down here, at the time we were just kinda looking at investment properties, something we could fix up and rent out and we just had no idea this place was even here. And we come into this neighborhood and all of a sudden you’re like, where am I? It’s like you’re in Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood. In the first year we were here, I had like five or six close friends in the neighborhood, always willing to help out, super excited to have new people in the neighborhood, willing to put work into the house, and it was just such a welcoming place. You walk down the street and everybody knows who you are, they’re super friendly, asking what you do, what’s going on, if you need help with anything. I think at this point every single one of my neighbors has helped me work on some part of the house, which is crazy. Mike: There’s something that this neighborhood does, the friendships you create with your neighbors become stronger than family bonds. I’m a lot closer with the people in this neighborhood than I am with my own family that moved out to the far suburbs. Is it the proximity, cause we’re all on top of each other in these row houses? Probably. Like I said, I’m closer with Jimmy…that’s Uncle Jimmy to me, but you know, we’re not related. Everyone’s like, “Oh that’s your uncle,” and I’m like, well not really. Or I might say, “Oh that’s my cousin Tommy at the end of the street.” “That’s really your cousin?” Well, kind of, but not really. SSW: So how much longer until you [Brett] become an uncle or a cousin to someone here? Brett: I don’t know…gotta wait until [Mike] gets a kid I guess. Mike: Oh Jesus. (Adam Przybyl)
BEST DINER THAT'LL FIX YOU RIGHT UP AFTER A NIGHT OUT
Cal-Harbor
The exterior is plain and white, with a yellow awning perched on the building that sits between residential Pullman and the Sherwin-Williams paint factory. The interior, at first glance, is typical diner style: cushioned vinyl booths, a low bar with stools, and a splash of wood paneling. But step into the back and you’ll find the kind of bar that serves liquor starting at 7am on weekdays and a faithful group of locals having a drink and talking about the news of the day. The menu offers standard diner options like omelets, skillets, pancakes and French toast, as well as sandwiches, burgers, and larger dinner entrees, all of which you can see being made to order in the open kitchen in the main room. Remarkably, all the prices seem to be about two to three dollars cheaper than in other diners around the city without sacrificing on food quality, service, or aesthetics. You could easily get a hearty meal and a drink for under twelve dollars and still have leftovers. As one Pullman resident told me, CalHarbor was the perfect place to recuperate after a bachelorette party. If you ever find yourself hungry and a bit hungover in Pullman in the wee hours of the morning, head on over to Cal-Harbor. They’ll take care of you. (Adam Przybyl)
“When you plant something, that’s not the end, that’s the beginning,” Susan James told me as we walked through the Gateway Garden, one of the areas tended to by the Historic Pullman Garden Club. James, a former president of the club, was talking about the maintenance required after the initial planting of a garden—“It’s like a pet,” she later explained, “you have to take care of it until it dies”—but in a way the beginning lies somewhere in the late nineteenth century when the town of Pullman came into being. George Pullman, the infamous industrialist who financed the venture, didn’t want it to be all factories and company homes—he wanted Pullman to be beautiful as well. So he hired Nathan Franklin Barrett, a landscape architect from New York, to design the greenery throughout the town and pay special attention to the parts visible from the railroad tracks on the eastern edge of town that would bring in visitors from around the world, such as during the 1893 World’s Fair. Barrett shaped the land around the still-standing clock tower and Hotel Florence, and the now-filled-in Lake Vista, to make it look like a bucolic estate in the country. A “pastoral parklet” separated the residential and recreational areas from the factory proper. That “parklet,” now known as Pullman Park, contains another one of the gardens the club maintains, in addition to three gardens at Arcade Park and the Rose Garden. Established in 1991, the club has always more or less consisted of Pullman residents dedicated to beautifying their neighborhood, especially around the buildings and areas of historical significance. As current garden club president Mike McMahon put it, the idea behind the gardens, most of which are visible from the Metra tracks or the arterial 111th Street, is to preserve and recreate the historical beauty of Pullman both for people who live in and around the neighborhood and for visitors coming to see the famous company town. The Pullman and Arcade Parks are next to the Visitor Center on 111th and Cottage Grove and contain several round beds of flowers and shrubs: Japanese anemones, Knock Out roses, lilacs, ginkgo and honey locust trees, blue spruce, and more. Gateway Garden, which was an empty lot prior to 2001, sits a few blocks east and is often the first thing visitors see when coming from I-94. At the corner a sign reads “Welcome to Historic Pullman.” Mike emphasized that the club has tried to make the gardens in the image of what might have existed back when the town was built, including the choice of flowers. A dozen or so days a year, club volunteers gather to tend to the gardens and pick up trash. The club’s leadership also organizes lectures, a garden walk in the summer, and a yard sale. While most of the members are retirees, occasionally they get a group of college students to come down and garden for a few hours. Like any volunteer organization, the garden club has seen its membership ebb and flow, especially considering the principal activity is manual labor, but McMahon and James emphasized that this is what made their garden club special. In a very Pullman kind of way, the club and the gardens subsist on the spirit of neighborly volunteering and pride in their collective historic past. (Adam Przybyl) Historic Pullman Garden Club. 11111 S. Forrestville Ave. The club usually meets at the Pullman Center Building (614 E. 113th St.) on the first Wednesday of the month. (773) 568-2441. hpgc.org
Cal-Harbor Restaurant and Lounge. 546 E. 115th St. Open daily, 5am–3pm, bar open until 10pm. Cash only. (773) 264-5435.
SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 57
PULLMAN
BEST CHURCH WITH A MANUAL TRACKING ORGAN Greenstone Church
Whosever job it was to name Greenstone Church didn’t beat around the bush. Sticking out among the sea of red bricks—drawn from the claybed of nearby Lake Calumet and used to build nearly every building in Pullman—the main façade of Greenstone Church is made from Pennsylvanian serpentine, a naturally occurring green stone, and topped with a bright copper green spire. Built in 1882 and based on the design of Solon Beman, the star architect of Pullman town, the church was to serve two objectives: have all the workers worship in one building and bring in profit from rent. Coming from a Unitarian Universalist background, perhaps Pullman didn’t realize how staunch all the different denominations, spread across numerous ethnicities, would be to their respective faiths. That—and the high rent—meant the church stood empty for a half decade before the Presbyterians became the first tenants in 1887. Other denominations built churches elsewhere or rented space in recreational buildings, such as the Pullman Methodist Episcopal congregation, which worshiped in what was known as Casino Hall. In 1894, when Pullman workers went on strike over lowered wages and the high cost of living, the Reverend E. Christian Oggel of the Presbyterian congregation deplored the strike, first arguing that the workers already had enough, then switching tack and saying that the strike broke the Golden Rule, and finally prophesying that the strike was doomed to fail. As the story goes, he lost twenty percent of his congregation that night. 58 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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JASON SCHUMER
Meanwhile, Reverend William H. Carwardine from the Methodist congregation announced his support for the strikers in a blazing sermon in which he demanded to know why Pullman hadn’t also lowered the salaries of the factory bosses, or done more to support the workers during the good times, like building an “emergency hospital…so badly needed” and providing for a winter relief committee. “It is such acts on the part of rich corporations that are hurrying the Nation to the Niagara of industrial revolution,” he thundered. That commitment to stand for justice has remained with the Methodists since then, and in 1907 the congregation bought out the church building from the Presbyterians. At one point boasting a hundred worshipping families, the Methodist congregation has gone through declining membership and mergers, but remained in the church through it all. “It’s a hard charge,” said Pastor Luther Mason, who explained that before he came in 2013, there had been seven pastors in the eleven years after a 2002 merger. He works to keep the church and services as open to the community as possible—there’s even a few non-Methodists who come. The building itself isn’t the only historically significant part of the church. The church contains a Steere & Turner manual tracking organ, also built in 1882, one of the few remaining such instruments in the country. Aside from switching over from hand bellows to a water-powered and then an electrical blower, the organ has remained unchanged for 136 years. The instrument, which contains 1260 pipes that range in size from an elephant trunk to a pencil, has two keyboards, a pedal board, and more than twenty trackers that allow an experienced keyboardist to unleash the aural equivalent of a full orchestra: flutes, oboes, bassoons, strings, trumpets, and more. Pastor Luther, an organ enthusiast, demonstrated the range and power of the organ with a few hymns, one of which he had arranged himself. Come hear the organ, come see the stained glass windows, come talk to Pastor Luther about the history of the church and its mission of justice. (Adam Przybyl) Greenstone United Methodist Church. 11211 S. St. Lawrence St. Services Sunday, 11am–2pm. Bible Study Tuesday, 6pm–8pm. (773) 928-7870. greenstoneunitedmethodistchurchchicago.wordpress.com
RIVERDALE & WEST PULLMAN
MAJOR TAYLOR TRAIL MURAL
EMELINE POSNER
BEST PUBLIC ART CELEBRATING BLACK CYCLISTS
BEST ALL-IN-ONE COMMUNITY CENTER
Major Taylor Trail Mural
Kroc Center Chicago
Marshall Walter Taylor, better known as “Major” Taylor, was a Black cyclist from Indianapolis who started his career while still a teenager. He would go on to become a professional cyclist and set various world records in sprint racing while traveling around the globe. Taylor won the world one-mile paced standing start in 1898, and won another world championship in Montreal in 1899. Unfortunately, after fourteen years of professional cycling he decided to stop, in part because of the demanding lifestyle, but also because of the intense racism he experienced within the cycling community. During an event in Boston, Taylor was pushed off his bike and choked by a white cyclist until police intervened. Taylor passed away in Chicago at the age of fifty-four. In 1948, a group of cyclists had Taylor’s body exhumed and reburied at a gravesite in Mount Glenwood, close to where the Major Taylor Trail would later be built. The trail extends from Whistler Woods forest preserve into Riverdale, and crosses through West Pullman, Morgan Park, and Beverly into the Dan Ryan Woods Forest Preserve. The trail covers about six miles and also connects to the Indiana Dunes trail, the Lakefront trail, and the Burnham Greenway. Fast-forward July 21 this year, when Bernard Williams, a Chicago artist, and the arts-based community organization Archi-Treasures unveiled their tribute to Taylor’s life and accomplishments. Williams enlisted the help of community members in bringing his design for the mural to life. The mural covers about 4,000 square feet on the side of the pedestrian bridge that crosses Little Calumet River around 129th Street and South Eggleston Avenue. Many people came out to celebrate the life of Taylor, honor the ten-year anniversary of the Major Taylor Trail, and to compete in a 5k run and walk. (Roderick Sawyer)
When Joan Kroc—wife of McDonald’s founder Ray Kroc—died in 2003, she bequeathed $1.5 billion to the Salvation Army for the construction of community centers across the country. Of the twenty-six Salvation Army Ray and Joan Kroc Corps Community Centers (most people just call them Kroc Centers) in twenty-three states and Puerto Rico, the largest, as of 2012, is in West Pullman. It’s not hard to see why—covering over four city blocks, the Kroc campus contains a football stadium, a baseball park, and basketball and tennis courts. And that’s just if you’re braving the elements; inside the center contains more of the same plus volleyball courts, weight-training equipment, as well as a pool area and water park complete with all the slides, tubes, and fountains the kid inside us all could wish for. There are smaller-scale replicas of the Bulls and White Sox stadiums too—the latter is home to a program for kids that offers baseball training and after-school help. The Kroc Center offers classes to kids and adults in everything from basketball fundamentals and aqua therapy to conversational Spanish and guitar. There are special events and programs for seniors, like bowling, a book club, and field trips. As part of the Salvation Army mission, the Center also has a “Kroc Church,” which offers services, bible study, and other programs. (Adam Przybyl) The Ray and Joan Kroc Corps Community Center Chicago, 1250 W. 119th St. Monday– Friday, 5:30am–9pm; Saturday 7am–8pm; Sunday 9am–4pm. Membership rates: $15–84 monthly, $162–948 annually, day pass $2.50-10. (773) 995-0151. kroccenterchicago.com
Major Taylor Trail Mural, pedestrian bridge near 129th St. and S. Eggleston Ave. SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 59
RIVERDALE & WEST PULLMAN
EMELINE POSNER EMELINE POSNER
BEST FOREST RESTORATION
Beaubien Woods Beaubien Woods could be one of the most popular parks in Cook County. One of the few sites managed by the Forest Preserves within Chicago city limits, Beaubien is located right off the Bishop Ford Expressway, along the Little Calumet River. With ample fishing opportunities in the Little Calumet and in Flatfoot Lake, one of only a few boat ramps along the Little Calumet, and a trail that passes through several high-quality natural areas, Beaubien Woods is not short on attractions. Despite its natural advantages, Beaubien is fairly isolated from the rest of the city. Although the site borders Altgeld Gardens, the largest public housing development in the city, access from elsewhere in the city is lacking. It’s nearly an hour by bus from the Red Line stop at 95th, and most of the preserve’s 279 acres are seldom visited. Robb Telfer, the former Calumet Outreach Coordinator at the Field Museum, says he once got excited about seeing new trash on a trail because it meant that people were actually using the site. While it’s a regular fishing spot, Telfer says few people visit with their families, hike, and explore the site’s flora and fauna. There’s a lot to explore: Along with the lake and river, Beaubien Woods includes a large expanse of open woodlands and three high-quality native prairie habitats. Telfer mentions the site is home to some fairly rare native plants, as well as turtles, frogs, coyote, deer, and beaver. This year featured an exciting addition to the list—a wild turkey, one of the first times the bird has been seen in Chicago in several decades. But the ecologically rich woodlands are tricky to enter: the trail entrance is unmarked, and tucked away across from the Carver Military Academy, a half-mile down the road from the main parking lot. Unless somebody has given you directions, it’s hard to find. But now, that’s changing. In September 2017, the Chicago Community Trust announced its first round of grants as part of the Our Great Rivers program, aimed at funding community-led projects along different parts of the riverfront. The Trust awarded a total of $800,000 in grants to ten different river-focused projects, ranging from a mural installation and dragon boat races at Ping Tom Park in Chinatown to a feasibility
study for a trail along the Sanitary and Ship Canal. $75,000 went to the Forest Preserves “to conduct a community engagement process for a 10-year plan to connect the Altgeld Gardens housing development with nearby natural amenities,” including Beaubien Woods. The initial Our Great Rivers report, released in August 2016, specifically recommended that a master plan be developed for Beaubien Woods and Altgeld Gardens. Chloe Gurin-Sands of the Metropolitan Planning Council (MPC) says that they identified this site as a particularly great location for building connections between neighborhoods and existing Forest Preserves properties. The site also offers an opportunity for other organizations to build on the ongoing work of the Field Museum, which has hosted monthly stewardship days aimed at removing invasive plants and restoring the site’s natural habitats for over a decade. While the grant was awarded to the Forest Preserves, the Chicago Housing Authority, and MPC, they also approached the Regional & Urban Planning committee of the American Institute of Architects’ Chicago chapter to collaborate on the project. The committee was able to provide professional services so that all of the grant money could be spent on implementation rather than planning. The engagement process began with a community barbecue in May, with residents from nearby communities invited to walk through the woods and discuss their visions for the area with planners. The next day featured a design event, with architects, engineers, economists, and historians pooling their collective knowledge to develop several proposals for future improvements to the site. The dominant theme was regional connectivity: linking Beaubien Woods to the Red Line extension to 130th, the Major Taylor trail, and various other regional assets. On the third and final day, residents were invited to a community open house at Carver Military Academy to comment on the results of the planning process. That day happened to coincide with Chicago River Day, an annual cleanup event organized by Friends of the Chicago River, and they coordinated a cleanup event to occur at Beaubien along with that open house. Now, the Forest Preserves, CHA, and AIA Chicago are assembling a ten-year vision and action plan for the area, with the goal of supporting additional grant applications. By the end of October, hopes are that the partners will be able to present the final results to the community. According to Richard Wilson, co-chair of the AIA Chicago committee, some highlights to watch for in the new plan include visibility enhancements and facilities upgrades. He hopes that adding signage and creating a more inviting entrance will increase public awareness and help draw visitors to the park, and thinks that upgrades to parking and bathrooms, and a new system of trails, are key to connecting the site with adjacent neighborhoods and improving visitor comfort. In the long term, Wilson mentions potential efforts to reinvigorate two nearby marinas on the Little Calumet so as to provide additional ways for local residents to access the river, and offer a site for educational programming. Some improvements are already underway. Telfer and Wilson both referenced concurrent efforts to organize a memorial commemorating the site’s role in the Underground Railroad. In part of what is now the reserve, Dutch abolitionist Jan Ton owned a farm where he sheltered escaped slaves as they travelled north. Additionally, Friends of the Chicago River recently installed an osprey nesting platform, providing vital habitat for ospreys that live on fish caught from the nearby river. Ospreys are listed as an endangered species in Illinois, and their presence indicates an increasingly healthy Little Calumet. Along with the ongoing planning efforts, these additions promise to make Beaubien Woods a more attractive destination for visitors, human and animal alike. Telfer sees more visitors as key to preserving the site for future generations. “If people continue to fall in love with it and feel attached to it,” he says, “it is much more likely to be cared for and protected from the kind of degradation that led to it needing to be restored in the first place.” (Sam Joyce) Beaubien Forest Preserve. 13084-13198 S. Doty Ave. (800) 870-3666. fpdcc.com/beaubien-woods/
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EPHRAT ASHERIE DANCE October 11–13, 2018 7:30 p.m. “Bona fide b-girl” (The Boston Globe) and Bessie Award-winning Ephrat “Bounce” Asherie layers breaking, hip-hop, house, and vogue with Nazareth’s exhilarating fusion of Afro-Brazilian rhythms and European classical traditions.
TICKETS $30 REGULAR / $24 SENIORS / $10 STUDENTS SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE 25% dance.colum.edu SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 61
SOUTH LOOP
Compiled by Jasmine Mithani
JASON SCHUMER
Jasmine Mithani is an editor at the Weekly. She admittedly lives in one of those new-fangled South Loop high-rises, but tries to atone for it. “You moved to Sloop?” my friend asked me when we met at Overflow Coffee Bar to catch up. I shook my head, indignant. “South Loop,” I corrected. He laughed. “You’ll come around to it eventually, everyone does.” Several months later, I’ve found “Sloop” slowly working its way into my vocabulary. I’ve begun the process of learning about my new neighborhood, particularly the Near South Side stretching from Roosevelt to Cermak. The area is often overlooked as a place of its own—many young adults only know it as the location of the southern-most Trader Joe’s, or as a transitional zone between Chinatown, Douglas, and downtown. Yet South Loop has its own character, perhaps defined by that very sense of transition. New luxury apartments lie across the street from ninety-year-old buildings repurposed as condos; the entire area is bordered by train tracks—Metra, Amtrak, the “L”—meant to shuttle residents across the North/South divide. When I think of South Loop as home, two images appear in my mind. One is the abundance of public art seen, most obviously, as murals on State Street and on Wabash Avenue. While walking around I keep discovering new spots of brightly-colored paint, pointing me toward another urban artwork. The other image is a memory I have of standing on the bridge over the 14th Street Amtrak Yard, looking out over a rolling green expanse punctuated by looming steel infrastructure. The sky was stormy, and I paused to take a photo while the sun was peeking from behind the clouds. It was the perfect blend of past and present—the tracks underneath my feet while cars whizzed by behind me on Roosevelt. It is my favorite place in Sloop, where for a moment industrial steel blends with nature, and no humans are in sight. 62 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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BEST BACON-TOPPED WAFFLE FRIES
Flo & Santos
Honoring the Italian and Polish culinary heritage of Chicago, Flo & Santos serves up the best bacon-topped waffle fries from its location in the South Loop. This enormous sports bar with a patio (beware fans on game day, when they open at 9am) has been around for over five years, offering American cuisine like wings, fries, salads, and pizza—each with a Polish and Italian twist to them—alongside options like pierogi, kielbasa, paczki, cannoli, and ravirogi (their version of ravioli with meat pierogi in vodka sauce). The cheddar waffle fries are worth the train ride to almost-downtown: wholesome, warm, and generously tossed in liquid cheddar cheese. Unlike other joints, where the cheddar cheese tends to be artificial and bland, it’s gooey and full of flavor here. The little flecks of smoked bacon and scallion on the fries are unexpectedly gratifying, topping off a decadent—but justifiable!—treat. Paired with a beer, they create the perfect vibe for unwinding on a weekday. (Manisha AR) Flo & Santos, 1310 S. Wabash Ave. Monday–Thursday and Sunday, 11:30am–11pm; Thursday, 11:30am–11:30pm; Friday and Saturday, 11:30am–midnight. (312) 5669817. floandsantos.com
SOUTH LOOP
BEST PLACE TO BUY MULTICOLOR MINIATURE CLOTHESPINS
BEST SUGAR RUSH
Artist & Craftsman Supply Chicago
Akhirah's Praline Candy & Coffee House
Multidisciplinary artists, unite! Artist & Craftsman Supply has us covered. Now in its ninth year, the hole in the wall art shop is geared towards all media. You’ll find everything from concentrated watercolors, foliage clusters for architectural models, and hemp cord in colors like periwinkle. Feel free to get lost in rows upon rows of glitter, or admire the pastel-painted floor that mirrors a nineties-era canvas (anyone remember ZOOM from PBS?). As an added bonus, all employees are artists, so you’re unlikely to find a grumpy cashier that couldn’t care less about your current art project—unlike some chain craft stores. Don’t be afraid to come inside because you don’t consider yourself a “serious artist”; Artist & Craftsman Supply welcomes any level of experience. The prices give similar art stores a run for their money, and the cozy atmosphere makes me wish I could start my next art project right there at the shop. (Kristen Simmons) Artist & Craftsman Supply Chicago, 828 S. Wabash Ave. Monday–Friday, 9am–8pm; Saturday, 10am–7pm; Sunday, 11am–6pm. (312) 583-9990. artistcraftsman.com
BEST PLACE TO WORK—OR PLAY—FROM HOME
The late afternoon sun is streaming into Akhirah’s Praline Candy & Coffee House, lighting up the entire shop. All around are decorations evoking New Orleans—tables are strewn with Mardi Gras beads, a Bourbon Street sign hangs near the cash register, and a Café du Monde tin can be seen behind the counter. After consulting the cashier, I order beignets, a rum praline, and a glass of freshly brewed peppermint iced tea. The beignets are prepared to order, and come out still too hot to eat, covered in a mound of powdered sugar. I’m by no means a beignet expert—any fried sweet dough with sugar will more than satisfy me—but the donuts here are exceptional. The praline is a delicious candy, and I resist the urge to buy one, two, three more to take home with me. The tea is perfectly Southern; not too many places have the guts to put in enough sugar to make sweet tea authentic, but Akhirah’s rises to the occasion. I leave satisfied, feeling as though I have been dipped in sugar. Noting the cafe’s early-morning hours as I leave, I look forward to treating myself to beignets and coffee one special day before work. ( Jasmine Mithani) Akhirah's Praline Candy & Coffee House, 1845 S. State St. Monday–Friday, 6am–7pm; Saturday–Sunday, 8am–6pm. (312) 985-1101.
Overflow Coffee Bar Supply Chicago
“The Overflow” is a coconut milk latté with chocolate and hazelnut flavoring, and is one of the two signature coffees served at Overflow Coffee Bar on the corner of south State Street and West 16th. Opened in 2011 by Brandon and Amanda Neely, the coffee shop is coming close to ten years—a feat easier said than done. The chocolate mocha with whipped cream is deeply satisfying. Drinking it while I sit by the tinted glass window allows me to work without getting distracted by the random people on the street who stare into the shop as they stroll by. In addition to coffee and tea, they also serve sandwiches, light and fluffy quiches and healthy options ,like a hummus platter with veggies. In 2017, Brian Jenkins, whose nonprofit Entrenuity was already a tenant in the building, bought Overflow. Entrenuity incubates and offers support and training to start-ups and small businesses, particularly minority entrepreneurs. This January, Jenkins invited Kari Pendelton to run the space as café manager. A year ago Pendelton founded her own small business called Bakes by Kari while she worked at Ipsento Coffee in Bucktown, from which Overflow now sources its beans. The coffee business, Pendelton told the Weekly, can be alienating. “I love coffee and I love people and I find joy in alleviating them from the intimidation that comes with working in the coffee industry.” Under her leadership, she’s been delighted to do just that for her diverse staff, which is majority women and people of color—both of which there is a lack of in the coffee industry. When Pendelton joined Overflow, she and her team suggested the Overflow AFTERDARK concert series as a way to engage with their customers. “It was a way to let the customers—old and new—know that we were relaunching the space,” she said. When they first hosted an event, “New Spirit & Soul,” they invited local jazz musician Sam Trump to perform. In June, She Livs, a female violin-vocals duo, performed. The next Overflow AFTERDARK, featuring singer-songwriter Christine Whack, will take place September 29. Until then, Overflow is still the right place to get some work done, with or without one of their signature drinks. (Manisha AR) Overflow Coffee Bar, 1550 S. State St. Monday–Saturday, 7am–8pm; Sunday, 8am–6pm. (312) 772-2356. overflowcoffeebar.org SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 63
SOUTH SHORE & SOUTH CHICAGO Compiled by Christian Belanger SKYARTS
Roman Villarreal is an artist and lifelong resident of South Chicago. He operates an art studio called Under the Bridge, 10052 S. Ewing Ave.
M
y name is Roman Villarreal. I was born in 1950 in the neighborhood called The Bush. The house that I lived in when I was a kid was literally across the street from the steel mills. In the early years in the neighborhood, we grew up with the noise, the banging, the clanking of the steel. All our lives it was the noise of the steel mills. When they closed the mills and we had access to the park, it was the first time we ever went to the lake. We never realized how close we were to the lake all these years. My whole family, they came from Texas, migrant workers, and they settled here in the early fifties. I was the first one born in Chicago. They were working in the fields in Michigan, and the word got out that the mill was hiring workers, so the men from that group—my father happened to be one of them—they took a chance and
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came here and, lo and behold, they got hired. They had a lot of benefits that you didn’t have in the fields during that period. When they got here, they didn’t realize they were actually scabs. There was a big strike, and they started hiring all these men. The good thing was that afterward they absorbed them into the mill, and they were able to keep working. They usually [would] have got rid of them. I went to work in the mill in 1967, I was seventeen years old. I was going to Bowen High School, and my old man felt that I was hanging around the street too much, so his way of solving the problem was putting me to work three to eleven. So I was going to school and then working a full shift here in the mill. So I did that all the way up until ’68 when I won the lotto to the military. At that time they called it the
lotto, but [it was] the strangest thing for us in this community, because it was the only thing we ever won. And our numbers were real short numbers. This community, of all the communities in the United States, was the one that suffered the most casualties in such a small area. That’s why the memorial at Guadalupe Church is rather important, because that’s the only memory that we have of these young men during that period. It was such an important thing because we were the only ones that suffered that much in one small area. I was fortunate enough to escape the war part of it. It was during the period when the mills were closing that I made the big decision no longer to work for anybody, and I became a full-time artist. I realized that [with] persistence on my part, [my family] could survive doing this. We never asked for grants, we never asked for donations, we never asked for nothing, absolutely nothing. The majority of the time, all that we’ve done to keep the arts alive in our community is out of pocket—art for the sake of the arts. The new alderman here now, Sue Garza, her father [Ed Sadlowski] was our union leader—Local 65. He was a really interesting person to know because he was a real powerful man. That’s a role model to a lot of us. The people that we grew up around here who were really the shakers and the movers didn’t ask for nothing. There’s another group of people that are greedy and they’re doing all this for just the sake of whatever they could pocket, whatever money, and these are the people that have brought some of the plight to this community with the petcoke and all these chemical things. In the early years it was getting ridiculous—the powder. If you lived in that area on the East Side, your house all of a sudden started getting this dark sheen on the walls and on the outside of your house and all that stuff. The solution—you have to laugh—of the powers that be at the time: close your windows. Try to solve the big picture. We know what it is—it’s economics. After the mills, this neighborhood went downhill all the way. In the process families were destroyed. Alcohol, drugs, abuse, everything that you could possibly think of created this mess. We know the solution to our problem is one thing that has to happen, and it’s not gonna happen soon—there is no work. But you can start training. The only other solution that a lot of us in this community have is to not depend too much on what’s going on and try to solve our own problems. Right now, for instance, we have a community [group]. We got plenty of lots on Commercial Avenue, a lot of abandoned stuff, so they’re starting to clean them up, spruce them up, through this funding that they have. They’re limited because they can only do so much. But there has to be one more element in it, and that element has to be the arts. Because it’s a proven fact in all these other communities, and we can use examples in Chicago: Pilsen, Logan Square, Bronzeville. The arts is part of bringing communities back. Being in the art world, my concentration is to keep the arts alive, the art movement, and try to change the way the communities deal with their young artists— not as vandals. Because they’re hungry, they want to learn. Don’t look at them as street thugs and all this, because they’re not. (As told to Christian Belanger)
BEST SOON-TO-BEIRREVERSIBLY ALTERED PART OF THE PARK DISTRICT The South Shore Nature Conservatory The South Shore Nature Sanctuary is nestled behind the Cultural Center, just north of the back half of a modest nine-hole golf course. The opening to the sanctuary is a tunnel flanked by dunes; entering it is like walking into a gully, or putting your ear to the folds of a seashell. After a few steps, the cries of children on the beach fall away and are replaced by the gentle, ambient wash of the lake. Inside, bees and butterflies—cloudless sulphurs, a lone monarch butterfly—fly around, flirting with the flowers: fire pinks, blazing stars, purple coneflowers, and milkweed, the particular favorite of the monarch. (It will only eat leaves from or lay eggs on plants of that species.) It’s not a big garden, with short looping pathways and a few fire pits near the water, but it is quietly beautiful. It may also be disappearing soon, at least in part. The twelfth hole of the planned Tiger Woods Golf Course would sprawl across the northern end of the sanctuary, razing part of the butterfly meadow and all of the fire pits in favor of fairway and green. As an employee of the design firm behind the course put it at a public meeting, “The holes are going to be absolutely spectacular. [Number] twelve will have a peninsula green, water right, left and long, with a marquee snapshot of downtown Chicago.” Though the city has promised, euphemistically, that the percentage of acreage in the area taken up by golf will not change, residents still don’t know where the lost land will be replaced, or whether the existing habitat will be recreated. And so this year, while you still can, it may be worth traveling to the small sanctuary to admire the monarchs as they pass through on their way to Mexico. (Christian Belanger) South Shore Nature Sanctuary, 7059 S. South Shore Dr. Open daily, 6am–11pm.
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SOUTH SHORE & SOUTH CHICAGO
BEST VEGETARIAN BURRITO
El Guero Supermercado
COURTESY OF SKYARTS
BEST PEACHES AND HERBIE
SkyART Community Garden Three summers ago, near the fence at the back corner of SkyART’s community garden, I watched plums and peaches burst onto the trees sometime during mid-July. The teen interns and I harvested them by climbing onto ladders and knocking them down with a stick. We carried our bounty back to the art center a few blocks away, where we used them in cooking classes and sent them home with students and staff. My coworker taught me to delve in first with a knife, to ensure the fruit was clear of bugs, before eating the freshest peaches and plums I’d ever tasted. The trees I adored are among thirty—including cherry, apple, pear, and apricot— in a spacious garden on the site of what was once a U.S. Steel parking lot. SkyART, a nonprofit that provides art programming for youth in South Chicago and surrounding areas, began developing the garden in 2003. The existing soil in the neighborhood contains toxic levels of chemicals, byproducts from the nearby steel mill’s blast furnaces. So SkyART, in partnership with NeighborSpace, arranged to have a truckload of safe soil brought in at the beginning of each gardening season to ensure that the produce is non-toxic. Twenty-two community members living near the garden have their own plots, according to Sarah Ward, executive director of SkyART. Many are immigrants from Mexico with farming experience. SkyART has its own plots, too, and uses the produce to make healthy snacks for kids. Sometimes, the kids visit the garden to pick up leaves, sticks, and other natural materials to incorporate into art projects. The garden is managed by Herbie, an experienced gardener with a lot of patience. When I showed up to work in the garden that summer, he was there almost every day to help me. “Hi, mija,” he’d say when I arrived with a group of the interns or young kids. Then he’d show us how to stake tomatoes, weed and turn over plots, and give watermelon seedlings plenty of water. That summer, we used produce to teach cooking classes: the kids and I picked zucchinis and their flowers for quesadillas, mint for a lemonade recipe, green beans. This year, Ward said, the garden yielded a bountiful harvest of tomatoes and peppers. (Mari Cohen) SkyART Community Garden, S. 88th St. and E. Brandon Ave.
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As a vegetarian, I sometimes find it difficult to find satisfying Mexican food; often, it seems like my options extend only to tortas and tacos stuffed with improbably voluminous lettuce leaves, accompanied by a few thin slices of avocado. (If I’m downtown—or in hyper-developed Hyde Park—I can overpay for Chipotle’s sofritas, the bland tofu base of an already-bland chain.) But there are exceptions, like the sweet and savory vegan gems at Yvolina’s Tamales in Pilsen, and, as I discovered this summer, the rajas burrito at El Guero Supermercado along Commercial Avenue. Like so many of the city’s best taquerias, El Guero is in a supermarket, with a cramped kitchen, one waitress, and a half-dozen tables partitioned off from the grocery aisles. The quesadillas are a good option (plated prettily, tasty), but it’s the rajas burrito that’s worth getting for cheap. Strips of roasted poblano chiles are crammed into the well-griddled tortilla with plenty of melted cheese, making for a burrito flavorful and messy enough to be deeply satisfying. It may not satiate your meat-eating friends, but at least you won’t spend the next few hours extricating leafy greens from between your teeth. (Christian Belanger) El Guero Supermercado, 9029 S. Commercial Ave. Monday–Thursday, 10am–midnight; Friday and Saturday, 10am–1am; Sunday, 11am–midnight.
TRI-TAYLOR & LITTLE ITALY Compiled by Jake Bittle
JASON SCHUMER
VIEW FROM HARRISON STREET PARKING STRUCTURE
BEST ALTERNATIVE VIEW OF DOWNTOWN
BEST STUFFED SHELLS
Harrison Street Parking Structure
Tufano’s Vernon Park Tap
It’s been said that a classic is a book that never runs out of things to say. By that definition, Chicago’s skyline is a classic—you think you understand it front to back, think you know it like the alphabet, and then you see it from a new angle and you’re floored all over again by its beauty and its power. Everyone knows the true view of the skyline is the one you get from the south lakefront, ideally from the Museum Campus, but it pays every now and then to branch out. If you find yourself near UIC, ascend the four floors of the Harrison Street parking garage (it’s free to enter, but makes a subpar picnic spot) for a hard-to-match view of the Financial District and the South Loop. It’s not the most Instagrammable vantage, but from the northeast corner of the top floor you can see how high-rise development has snaked down State Street from Roosevelt, and how the core of early-1900s buildings around LaSalle has been ringed by newer and newer towers over the years. A glass condo has recently obscured the view of the West Loop, but for a whopping zero dollars, this cheapskate’s Skydeck still has a lot to offer. ( Jake Bittle)
Little Italy has been disappearing almost as long as it’s been around, at least since Studs Terkel interviewed Florence Scala about UIC’s encroachment on the neighborhood for the first chapter of 1967’s Division Street. But as the Italian neighborhood itself has vanished, its most storied institutions have responded by getting more and more intensely Italian as the years go on. Tufano’s Vernon Park Tap, one of the area’s longest-running restaurants, is the ne plus ultra in this respect: lots of restaurants claim to be “family” establishments, but this one really feels that way. On a weekend night the place is bustling and boisterous, families of eight ambling in and out and waiters rushing across the room as if on guided rails. The day’s specials are scrawled in chalk on a wall in the main room, but the more the menu changes, the more it stays the same: the best things are and will always be the lemon chicken, the red-sauce-doused eggplant parmesan, and the monstrous stuffed shells. There are no checkered tablecloths, at least not on this reporter’s last visit, but there may as well have been. ( Jake Bittle)
Harrison Street Parking Structure, 1100 W. Harrison St. $0 to enter on foot, more to park.
Tufano’s Vernon Park Tap, 1073 W. Vernon Park Pl. Tuesday–Thursday 11am–9:30pm, Friday 11am–10:30pm; Saturday 4pm–10:30pm, Sunday 3pm–9pm. (312) 733-3393. tufanosrestaurant.com SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 67
TRI-TAYLOR & LITTLE ITALY
REBECA ROMO AND RICHARD MANONGDO
BEST SPAM Aloha Wagon
As you wait for the bus in the screaming wind during Chicago’s impending winter, you may find yourself thinking of Hawaii—tropical, beautiful Hawaii, with its palm trees, its volcanoes, its tranquil waters. Not even this ace reporter of the Weekly know where there are palm trees in Chicago, but we can give you the next-best thing: a cheap, delicious, Hawaiian restaurant. Stranded seemingly on an island of its own (get it?) at the corner of Roosevelt and Western, Aloha Wagon serves a suite of island favorites—pork tacos, burgers with huge chunks of pineapple, and coconut-pineapple “aloha bars.” The real standout, though, is the spam musubi, a classic Hawaiian snack made by wrapping the canned meat in rice and seaweed. First introduced to Hawaii by stationed soldiers who were fed the stuff during World War II, the mystery meat has since become a staple of its cuisine—close your eyes as you bite down, and you just might hear the whooshing of the waves. ( Jake Bittle) Aloha Wagon, 1247 S. Western Ave. Monday-Friday, 11am–7pm, Saturday 11am–2pm. (312) 888-9613. alohawagon.com
JASON SCHUMER
BEST HANGOVER CURE The Slide Bar
The Slide Bar has the hangover cure to best all hangover cures. It is a slider-topped Bloody Mary, and yes, it is exactly as it sounds, a Bloody Mary with a slider on top. The bar also offers a normal Bloody Mary. But why would you settle when an extra $3 will slap a slider on top? That’s a whole meal for $11. All your vitamins and nutrients. Also, some vodka. In the interest of full disclosure, I have not actually drank a Slide Bar Bloody, which is how they are listed on the menu, or the Bloody Slide, as I prefer to call it in my head. In part this is because I have been unable to fit in a visit to the bar between Sunday work shifts, and the bartenders do not have the necessary components on other days of the week, when I’ve come in. But this is also in part because I fear what life looks like on the other side of a Bloody Slide. My nightmare, in short: I am unable to think about anything else on Sunday afternoons. At the bar where I work, I can no longer bear to serve regular bloody marys to our faithful customers. I start bringing in White Castle sliders to serve atop our ordinary schmordinary Bloody Marys. It falls far short of the Bloody Slide, and then to add insult to injury we are shut down by the health department. A total disaster. I have not had the Slide Bar Bloody, but I can vouch for it based on other evidence I have collected. On multiple occasions I have ordered the Slide Bar’s burger, a fine burger with a just-right sized patty cradled by soft, slightly sweet baked buns. Their drinks are reliably good and strong, and will not break the bank. It is my most educated guess that the Slide Bar Bloody is as good as, and possibly even better than, it sounds. (Emeline Posner) Slide Bar, 939 S. Western Ave. Monday–Thursday, 4pm–2am; Friday, 11am–2am; Saturday 11am–3am; Sunday, 11am–midnight. $5–15. (312) 421-4860. theslidebarchicago.com
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ST. BASIL'S
BEST DUELING DOMES
JASON SCHUMER
St. Basil’s and Notre Dame de Chicago From almost anywhere in Little Italy you can see one of two prominent church domes, each with a very different history and built in a very different architectural style. The gray plated dome of St. Basil’s Orthodox church on Ashland tops a neoclassical building, first built in 1910 as a synagogue. After a series of fires, the most recent of which was in 2013, the original dome was almost completely destroyed, but the church’s very small parish community managed to raise the funds to rebuild it. From its position atop the aging church, the new bulb looks modern, almost alien. But its spotless panels testify to the resilience of one of Chicago’s last surviving Greek Orthodox communities. Across the neighborhood, the original neo-Baroque dome of the Notre Dame Catholic church (yes, Chicago has one of those) has survived since 1887. In contrast to St. Basil’s, the Notre Dame dome looks much older than the church it tops: the church building has been renovated numerous times, but the dome has turned green with verdigris over the years. There’s glass between the ionic pilasters now, but the full height of the dome and the statue of Mary still do what few other buildings in Chicago do anymore—they call to mind another place and time, oceans and centuries away. ( Jake Bittle)
A POROUS SLIP SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 69
October 28
St. Basil’s Greek Orthodox Church, 733 S. Ashland Ave., and Notre Dame de Chicago, 1334 W. Flournoy St.
arts.uchicago.edu/logan/gallery
NOTRE DAME DE CHICAGO
JASON SCHUMER
Logan Center Gallery • Reva and David Logan Center for the Arts • 915 E 60th St Chicago IL 60637
A HARD WHITE BODY
September 14
Candice Lin —
Compiled by Christopher Good
WASHINGTON PARK & WOODLAWN COURTESY OF PRISON + NEIGHBORHOOD ART PROJECT
Bishop Dwayne R. Mason is the pastor of Saint Martin’s Church of Christ at 5648 S. State St. in Washington Park. He also works as a licensed funeral director.
L
et me tell you a little about Saint Martin’s. We have been on this corner just about fifty years. We started off as a storefront church, but then over the years, starting back in the sixties, we bought a lot of vacant lots next door. And in 1973, we built this church from the ground [up]. So we’ve been in this community fifty years. I became a pastor to help the people, people that need help. This is an African-American community, and we don’t have the luxury of a lot of counseling— so our people turn to the church for help with everyday problems, spiritual guidance. We have a wide spectrum of parishoners: we have children, teenagers, the middleaged, and senior citizens. From every age bracket, basically. I’m now celebrating my fourteenth year here. But there are people in the church that have been at it since… say, a lady came to church yesterday, that used to have an old building across the street. And she remembers when we built it! There have been a lot of changes since then. In maybe the last four or five years, the face of Washington Park has changed even more, with the things the University is doing. We have the Obama Library coming—you can see the writing [on the wall] with that. But I think it will help, that it will bring new life to the community. Hyde Park is our neighbor, but it’s a different community altogether—Washington Park is more just trying to survive, trying to hang on. Hyde Park is thriving because of the stores, the community centers, all of that. Washington Park is not fortunate to have a lot of things like that. But it’s migrating. It’s coming this way. 70 SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY
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There’s crime and violence in Washington Park. It’s not the safest neighborhood. That’s one of the things we are so desperately in need of, just a transformation. But we are a very viable church, we’re not dead at all. Every year we do back-to-school, we give each of the children in the church book bags and school supplies. We help seniors with different things that they need. We’re not a large church. But we’re a church of a few that accomplishes a lot. (As told to Christopher Good)
BEST-NAMED BURGER JOINT
Wesley’s Momma’s Made Burgers This unassuming storefront on Cottage Grove, across from the Oak Woods Cemetery, holds some of the best—and best-named—burgers in the city. The half-pound madeto-order cheeseburger, replete with onions and sweet pickles, is one of the best I’ve had in the city: juicy, tender, flavorful, and filling, it more than fulfills its name. And about that: per owner Mike Johnson, who has run the joint for two years, the store is named after both his mother and his late cousin Wesley, who taught him how to make burgers. Consider this sincere and heartfelt thank-you to Wesley, Mike, and Mike’s momma. (Sam Stecklow) Wesley’s Momma’s Made Burgers, 6658 S. Cottage Grove Ave. Monday–Thursday, 10am– 10pm; Friday and Saturday, 10am–midnight; closed Sunday. (773) 324-2237.
WASHINGTON PARK & WOODLAWN
EMELINE POSNER
BEST CORRIDOR GATEWAY
62nd and Harper
Longtime Woodlawn-based artist and gardener William Hill is not interested in the “politics of ownership.” It’s grassroots partnership, not ownership, he says, that benefits the surrounding community. In his newest garden project, Hill is relying on such partnerships—with the Sunshine Gospel Ministries, nearby schools, and neighbors—to transform the grounds into a gathering space, and a center of education, horticulture, food equity, and art. In the garden, which occupies a CPS-owned lot just south of Hyde Park High School, Hill plans to run engagement programs for ex-offenders and for kids with unreliable food access. But the space will also serve as a “corridor gateway,” open to the public as a place to walk, to sit, to talk, to play. “We always need gardens,” Hill says. “There are never enough.” The garden is already built out with floral and vegetable beds, chess tables, benches, sculptures, and a path winding around it all. There will be opportunities to see it, and to hear Hill discuss it, throughout September and October, as part of an art installation on the points of intersection between natural and social worlds.The installation is another point of partnership: it’s put on jointly by Hill and the nearby Experimental Station. (Emeline Posner)
MOST IMPRESSIVE FRITES
Friistyle
Food journalism might not have the hardest rep: you show up, you eat, you write something. But what good are words when it comes to discussing a plate of fries? Case in point: the challenges of doing justice to the hand-cut potatoes over at Friistyle, which opened in July at the former site of the Bronzeville Jerk Shack, just steps from the 51st Green Line station. The signature dish is the “bomb frite,” a heap of fries served in a paper cone, plus two toppings of your choice. But it’s the eclectic rotation of in-house sauces and toppings—previous selections include lamb, jerk salmon, and tikka masala—that pushes Friistyle from fry to pomme frite status. On my first visit, I opt for the wing frites. The barbeque “boughetto” sauce these wings are glazed with—i.e., bougie meets ghetto—cuts to the heart of Friistyle’s appeal. It’s gourmet food you’d actually crave when hungry; impossibly enough, fries you might impress a foodie date with. So step inside, take in the decor—to the left, the restaurant's name cast in neon cursive; to the right, a mural by Paul Branton with the Green Line and a mysterious eight-ball moon—and order up. Friistyle’s ever-expanding Yelp fanbase can’t be wrong. (Christopher Good)
MOST BEAUTIFUL STREET CORNER Carman Weathington’s Studio “I just think this community needs a little beauty and compassion,” says Carman Weathington. We’re standing outside of her studio, which sits on 57th and State, and admiring the massive mural of Kuan Yin— bodhisattva of mercy—that she commissioned from Annapolis artist Jeff Huntington two years back. For about a decade, she’s lived and worked on this corner, showcasing her work, leading women’s collaging workshops, and inviting passersby to stop inside. It’s been a long journey to this point. Weathington, who was raised on the city’s West and South Sides, recalls experimenting with art in a course at Mather High School. But it wasn’t until later in life that she began creating again, first with “purely abstract” painting—“because I didn’t think I could draw”—before challenging herself to paint images. Today, she paints, collages, hand-stitches leather wallets, draws, and draws inspiration from just about everything in her life: folklore and religion (we discuss Elegua, the gender-fluid Orisha of crossroads), birds (in particular, those nesting under her back porch), travel (most recently, Paris; next up, Barcelona), and public art around Chicago. Lately, she’s been depicting love through straight-line pen and ink. But after picking up a saw and sandpaper, she now has her sights set on woodworking. When it comes to teaching and leading workshops, Weathington’s medium of choice is “vision boarding”: a sort of collage-as-mindfulness, where individuals meditate on what they want from their future as they cut and paste. “When people collage, they resist at first,” she says, whether from fear of vulnerability or imperfection. But Weathington, who was never formally trained, has her own way to move past these doubts.“The key for me is that I don’t judge my art,” she says. “I judge whether I love it or I like it, and whether it’s finished. But I am not concerned with whether other people like it or not.” As Weathington recognizes, there are a lot of challenges in Washington Park: disinvestment, crime, its status as a food desert. But in her time on 57th and State, she’s seen things get brighter: from the mundane (working with the liquor store across the street to get garbage picked up), to the beauty her gallery contributes. Weathington says she often learns that visitors to her studio have been artists in the past, or are still artists. “They may have other things pulling them away from it now,” she says, “but they’re really excited to see art in the community.” And so, as she puts it: “I think they accept me as an artist here. They always say, 'When are you going to open the doors again?’ They accept me as the little odd women who paints on the first floor over here.” (Christopher Good)
Friistyle, 5059 S. Prairie Ave. Wednesday–Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday–Saturday, 11am–11pm; Sunday, 11am–5pm. Monday and Tuesday, closed. (773) 548-5375. facebook.com/friistylechi/ SEPTEMBER 19, 2018 ¬ SOUTH SIDE WEEKLY 71
A donation of $5 per person appreciated.
PERFORMANCES BY: ALLISON MILLER’S BOOM TIC BOOM / BEN LAMAR GAY (solo) / BRANDEE YOUNGER TRIO / CHICAGO YESTET / CHRISTIAN SANDS TRIO WITH MARCUS STRICKLAND / CHRISTIAN SCOTT ATUNDE ADJUAH / DEE ALEXANDER PRESENTS: WHAT COLOR IS LOVE? THE MUSIC OF TERRY CALLIER / JASON MORAN (solo): CELEBRATING WILLIE PICKENS AND MUHAL RICHARD ABRAMS / JOHN “POPPY” WRIGHT’S POOL PARTY JAM / KENWOOD ACADEMY JAZZ BAND / KRIS DAVIS (solo) / MIKE REED’S THE CITY WAS YELLOW: THE CHICAGO SUITE / RAVI COLTRANE / RYAN COHAN’S ORIGINATIONS / PLUS: ANGEL D’CUBA / BEN WALTZER TRIO / CHICAGO STATE UNIVERSITY COMMUNITY JAZZ BAND / DJ SADIE WOODS / ERNIE ADAMS TRIO / GUSTAVO CORTIÑAS QUARTET / HANNAH MARKS’ HEARTLAND TRIO / ISAIAH COLLIER AND THE CHOSEN FEW / JENNA PRZYBYSZ QUARTET / JOAN COLLASO AND THE LARRY HANKS ENSEMBLE / JO ANN DAUGHERTY AND FRIENDS / JOEY BRINK (solo) / JULIUS TUCKER TRIO / JUNIUS PAUL QUARTET / LENARD SIMPSON TRIO /MAGGIE BROWN’S VISION ENSEMBLE / MAJESTIC GENTS AND THE NUBLU BAND: CHICAGO STEPPIN’ / MARDRA AND REGGIE THOMAS DUO / MIGUEL DE LA CERNA QUARTET / THADDEUS TUKES AND ALEXIS LOMBRÉ DUO / BRANDEE YOUNGER: “TRANSCENDENCE: A GLIMPSE INTO THE LIFE AND LEGACY OF ALICE COLTRANE” / NATE CHINEN: “PLAYING CHANGES: A CONVERSATION ABOUT JAZZ IN THE NEW CENTURY” LEAD SPONSOR:
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