Review: Walter’s, Dulwich

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By Sarah Over

Looking for somewhere to feast of hearty British produce? Dulwich newcomer Walter’s hits just the right spot. Matt Lovell and Rob Hampton, of Covent Garden Oyster Bar fame, have chosen faultlessly for their second space. It’s a restaurant that caters perfectly to the Dulwich and Herne Hill neighbourhoods, filling a hole in both.

The interiors are neither high-end nor low-end. It’s darn fine tableware and top-class service – yet the tables aren’t dressed in linen, the staff are in jeans (and a cap if you’re boss Rob) and the look of the place says ‘relax’. You could come to eat in a tie or a frock if you’re celebrating something special, or join them in jeans if you’re wanting to be comfy.

The menu prices are on the higher side (starters from £9.50 / mains £19.50) but reflect the quality of produce and there’s always a set £15 lunch menu or cheaper-still brunch for those wanting the experience without the higher price tag.

Walter specialises in British produce and there are wines from our own countryside on the menu, too. On our visit, we were happily led by the staff’s recommendations and would urge you to do the same – especially on the cocktails!

With an opening glass of champagne-like East Sussex Henners fizz, we had three superb snacks. Blue cheese arancini were crispy-on-the-outside with a soft melty centre – perfect. Green, soft, lightly charred friggitelli peppers were mild but flavourful – no worries of ‘heat roulette’ here. Grilled baby chorizo in a mouth-warming harissa yoghurt were also gorgeous, concluding a great opening.

The starters portion of the menu delighted. Beautiful, delicate ceviche arrived looking like a magical sea creature. The flavour combination of pickled cucumber and toasted buckwheat with raw fish was magical too. A home-made duck liver pate was richly gamey and came served with four of Walter’s own pickles, which were divine (but next time please give me more of those exquisite pickles!).

Spinach and ricotta gnocchi and sea bass were our mains. Both summertime on a plate – fresh, light –despite the generous size. Three courses in and there was still room for dessert.

Home-made basque cheesecake came with cherry compote and there was a great choice of chef’s icecream and sorbets. 

We gave Bergamot sorbet a go – it’s a punchy idea (but a little too aftershavey for this lass). The other flavours were on the mark: tart and fresh coconut/ lime sorbet, creamy vanilla with crunchy hazelnut and a not-too-sweet honey mascarpone.

My foodie friend and I arrived at 5.30pm, intending on an early finish. But Walter’s kept us there. It was empty-ish (as expected) at first, but from 6pm tables filled, emptied and filled again – bar stools too. The atmosphere was that of a place to be for a fine time on a Friday night. Music was spot on and, as the evening progressed, the lighting got lower and the noise got louder. Guests came for family meals, for cocktails and snacks after work, for a 3-course celebration a deux wearing shirt and tie, or alone in jeans for a one-course meals.

Whether you call in for afterwork cocktails and snacks or a multi-course celebratory dinner, Walter’s doesn’t disappoint. Well done Rob, Matt and co. With word of mouth being the main way of hearing about Walter’s, this neighbourhood restaurant is only going to get busier.

Walter’s Bar and Kitchen, 84 Park Hall Road, Dulwich, London SE21 8BW.

Wednesday - Friday, 12pm - 11pm; Saturday 10am - 11pm; Sunday 10am - 5pm. www.waltersdulwich.co.uk/