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fine GardeningTAUNTON’S PLANT TRIAL RESULTS: Bush Clover IDEASBig-ImpactFORSMALLSPACES Unusual Fall Perennials to Extend the Season Tips for Designing Vignettes That Last The Pros and Cons of Sheet Mulching ✺ PLUS

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CONTENTS | September • October 2022 | features 32 Unusualfallperennials These lesser-known stars will extend the season with unexpected color by Andy Brand 40 Ataleoftwocitygardens A pair of garden designers show how limited space doesn’t have to mean limited interest, in a front yard or a backyard by Danielle Sherry 50 Get to know bush clover This easy-care, drought-tolerant, late-blooming shrub may be just what your garden is missing by Richard Hawke 58 What sheetismulching? Take a deeper look at this controversial method for smothering turf and building healthy soil by Jeff Gillman 62 Designing vignettes that last Mix bold, textural plants with showy perennials for a landscape that looks good longer by Carol Collins 62 ON THE COVER See the story on p. 40. Photo: Doreen Wynja

departments 6 Editor’s letter 8 Contributors 10 Over the fence 12 Super cool plants • Himalayan whorlflower • Temple of Bloom® seven-son flower • ‘Mojito’ elephant’s ear 16 Readers’ tips 18 Garden shed 20 Edible garden Pro tips for growing currants 24 Plant MD Eriophyid mites—harmless or harmful? 28 Indoor gardening Five ways to propagate through cuttings 72 Regional picks Unusual fall perennials for your region • NORTHWEST • SOUTHWEST • MOUNTAIN WEST • SOUTHERN PLAINS • MIDWEST • SOUTHEAST • NORTHEAST 79 Pronunciationguide 82 Zone map 83 combinationCaptivating 50 32 40 58 CONTENTS | September • October 2022 |

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Alexa, please play folk hits of the ’70s.

center);and(topSherryDaniellePhotos: FG (bottom)staff

EDITOR’S LETTER

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 20226

For a video reel of evening photos from the small garden featured on pages 42–45, visit Fine Gardening‘s Instagram @finegardening

Small ain’t so bad WHILE EDITING THIS ISSUE, I haven’t been able to get Joni Mitchell out of my head. Yes, that Joni Mitchell—specifically, her 1970 hit “Big Yellow Taxi” and the line “You don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone.” I miss my small garden. Sure, when I had less than 2,000 square feet of green space I would complain constantly because it seemed like I never had enough room for the plants I wanted. And it was maddening. But more than a decade ago I moved, and gained more space—a lot more. In hindsight, I liked having a small garden better than a big one. I’ve read plenty of books on garden design that claim the risks are lower in a small space because if you make a mistake it’s a small one and can easily be fixed. I’d say the opposite is true. In a tiny pocket garden it’s easier to spot a seating area that’s out of proportion or a plant that just doesn’t belong where it’s sited. In a big garden like mine, those mistakes are often overlooked because of the larger scale. But they’re still there. Gardening within a tiny footprint is harder, but in my opinion, it’s more rewarding. One of the first gardens I got to photograph in person postlockdown was the tiny backyard you’ll see on pages 42–45. Designed by Christie Dustman, this space is pure magic. In fact, I was so captivated by every detail, every plant choice and placement, that I stayed there long after sunset and kept shooting—which was made possible by the expertly placed landscape lighting that just enhanced the dreamy feel of the cozy space. It wasn’t long after that photo shoot that I was scrolling through pictures of a similarly charming small garden on the West Coast, designed by Courtney Olander and featured on pages 46–49. The details that this garden has are exquisite, not to mention the ingenious ways it deals with site issues like a lack of privacy and poor drainage along the foundation. I think that’s when I first started humming that lyric from Joni. It doesn’t matter if your garden space is large or small, however. These two tiny plots are jam-packed with ideas that any size landscape can benefit from. One of my last projects for this garden season is installing a large container under a downspout to redirect runoff, similar to the one you’ll find in one of those small gardens (p. 48). It’s going to require some digging and grading, but I’ll just put my earbuds in and select a motivational playlist to get me through the grueling sitework.

Danielle Sherry Executive Editor dsherry@taunton.com

FINEGARDENING.COM 7 EXECUTIVE EDITOR DanielleSherry EXECUTIVE StephanieFagan ART ASSOCIATEDIRECTOREDITOR CarolCollins CONTENT EDITOR JenniferBenner ASSISTANT EDITOR DianaKoehm COPY/PRODUCTION DonBurgard ADMINISTRATIVEEDITOR BetsyEngel CONTRIBUTINGASSISTANT StephanieCohen EDITORS WilliamStacieCrooksCullinaKellyDodsonJeffGillmanRichardHawkeSueMillikenAndrewPulteJasonReevesRichieSteffen PUBLISHER, BOOKS JenniferDorsey FineGardening.com DIGITAL CONTENT ChristineAlexander EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT KaitlynHayes DIGITALMANAGERCONTENT KaralynDemos PRODUCTIONVIDEOSPECIALISTDIRECTOR ColinRussell MANAGER, JeffRoos VIDEO STUDIO Fine Gardening (ISSN:0896-6281)ispublished address707.4.12.5).POSTMASTER:ableyear,U.S.$75.95Canada,$49.95SUBSCRIPTION#123210981.additionalpostageCTbimonthlybyTheTauntonPress,Inc.,Newtown,06470.Telephone203-426-8171.PeriodicalspaidatNewtown,CT06470,andatmailingoffices.GSTpaidregistrationRATES:U.S.,$29.95foroneyear,fortwoyears,$69.95forthreeyears.$31.95foroneyear,$53.95fortwoyears,forthreeyears(GSTincluded,payableinfunds).OutsidetheU.S./Canada:$42forone$72fortwoyears,$102forthreeyears(pay-inU.S.funds).SendallUAAtoCFS(seeDMMNonpostalandmilitaryfacilities:Sendcorrectionsto Fine Gardening,POBox ers,addressesCANADA37610,Boone,IA50037-0610.POST:ReturnundeliverableCanadiantoFineGardening,c/oWorldwideMail-Inc.,2835KewDrive,Windsor,ONN8T3B7. Printed in the USA Gardening® fine Muscari Fantasy Creation Peony Buckeye Belle Lily Easy Dance Perfect Partners® Chique Magnifique Eranthis cilicica Daffodil Zinzi Tulip Copper Image Hyacinthoides Mixed 1-800-852-5243 bluestoneperennials.com Beautiful Spring Blooming Bulbs Let us help get your garden blooming with our distinctive spring blooming bulbs. We are pleased to offer the finest owering bulbs from Europe for fall planting. Visit our online Bulb Gallery today!

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JEFF GILLMAN is director of the University of North Carolina Charlotte Botanical Gardens. With a master’s degree in entomology, a Ph.D. in horticulture from the University of Georgia, and more than 30 years of experience researching weed, disease, and insect pest management, you might say he knows a thing or two about gardening. Prior to moving to North Carolina, Jeff spent 15 years as an associate professor in the Department of Horticultural Science at the University of Minnesota. He is the author of five books on gardening and the environment and is a well-respected lecturer across the country. When he’s not teaching, testing, trialing, and researching all things gardening, you’ll find Jeff enjoying the best barbecue in town. Garden designer BILL NOBLE (right) has spent much of his career preserving and restoring historic gardens. After he and his husband bought their 1830s Vermont farmhouse in 1991, he set out to create a garden that would honor the property’s agricultural character and harmonize with the surrounding hills, forests, and mountains. With the assistance of horticulturist SUSAN HOWARD (left), he has spent the past three decades developing the ever-evolving garden rooms that featured (pp. 62–71).

are

(bottom)GillmanJeffofcourtesy(center);RoperLisaofcourtesy(top);KoehmDianaPhotos: ANDY BRAND was born and raised in Connecticut. He graduated from the University of Connecticut with degrees in environmental horticulture and plant science and spent twenty-seven years working at Broken Arrow Nursery in Hamden, Connecticut, as the nursery manager. An avid naturalist with an interest in birds, butterflies, and native plants, he cofounded the Connecticut Butterfly Association. Through the New England Plant Conservation Program, he has helped monitor historical sites with endangered native plants. In 2018, he moved to Maine and started working at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay. In 2021, he became director of horticulture. In his free time Andy runs a Facebook page called “Seeing Nature: Observations from New England,” which is dedicated to documenting native flora and fauna.

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in “Designing Vignettes That Last”

The Taunton guarantee: If at any time you’re not completely satisfied with Fine Gardening, you can cancel your subscription and receive a refund for any unserved issues. To contact Fine Gardening customer service: Email us at customerservice@FineGardening.com, or go to FineGardening.com/customerservice Copyright 2022 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction permission of The Taunton Press, Inc. Roger’s sculpture covers the gamut from fine art to whimsy Given sculptures eclectic they

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including functional garden elements, weathervanes, birdbaths, gates, fountains and more.

Questions about containers I’m intrigued by your numerous articles showing glorious mixes of plants in a single container, especially the recent article on pollinator containers (“Pots With Pollinator Power,” July/August 2022). Do the photos of these mixed containers depict the plants at their peak of growth? Related to that, how do you maintain these containers to keep the right proportion of plants? How do you keep them full but not overcrowded to the point of unhealthiness? Are most of these groupings suitable for the long term, or are they meant to be completely taken apart and replanted elsewhere when plants grow too big or overtake others? With so many plants massed together in a small area, are feeding needs increased?

Deer-hosta detente Thank you for your stunning May/June 2022 issue. I’d like to add to Danielle Sherry’s lore about hostas and deer (“Editor’s Letter”). Our garden in New Hampshire is rich with hostas (and many other lovely flowering perennials) and has been a joy here for many years. And we’re blessed with a good deer population, as you can see. So far, though, the deer seem to leave the hostas and other perennials alone.

10

—Peg McCann, St. Joseph, Michigan

The July/August 2022 article “Big and Bold for the Back of the Border” by Irvin Etienne mentioned prairie dock but didn’t include a photo of its huge, sandpaper-rough leaves. Here’s how mine looked at the beginning of June in southwestern Michigan.

It’s a bit slow to emerge and thus is useful for covering fading daffodil foliage. Deer and other critters don’t bother it. It likes full sun but persists in light shade. Yes, the 10-foot flower stalks are floppy and difficult to corral by stakes and twine. Sometimes I remove them. However, where you can keep the flowers, they are indeed glorious. Goldfinches will ride them in the wind. I get a few seedlings, which are best moved to a permanent spot in their first year. The roots of a mature clump are large and 2 to 3 feet deep (a dry spell doesn’t bother this plant), so it’s difficult to remove. Even little scraps of broken roots willThanksprout.you for featuring one of my favorites and showing me a few more big plants to try.

millettephotomedia.com.bottom:left,Photocontributors.theofcourtesynoted:whereexceptPhotos, 2022

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER

FG responds: Container designer Sarah Partyka’s elegant and imaginative plant combinations have been featured in several FG articles over the years. Because she owns a garden center, Sarah chooses plants for her mixed pots from the same stock that is available to her customers in early summer. An editor usually arrives to take photos of the containers at least a few weeks after they are assembled, which gives the plants a chance to fill in a bit and acclimate to their new home.

OVER THE FENCE Praise for prairie dock

—Lisa Kay Adam, Weslaco, Texas

The containers that Sarah used in this article are very large—most are at least 2 feet tall and wide and hold several cubic feet of potting soil. To keep them looking their best, the plants in these containers require more frequent watering, fertilization, and deadheading than similar plants grown in the ground. Because Sarah gardens in Zone 6b, most of her mixed containers will likely be broken down at the end of the growing season, with perennials tucked into garden beds and tropical plants moved to an indoor location over the winter.

WANT YOUR OPINIONS HEARD? Email your comments to fg@taunton.com, or mail them to Fine Gardening, 63 South Main Street, Newtown, CT 06470.

—Allen Hough, Lancaster, New Hampshire

Passionate about all that grows www.alitex-greenhouses.com JoeHickson:413-530-6908

The small flowers are numerous, with thin tubes flaring to open white corollas. These remain open for an extended period, and mature clumps often have multiple stems with staggered flowering times. Interestingly, these flowers change color from light to dark pink once they are pollinated. Perhaps that is why we are so enamored by this plant, remembering those frequent pink flushes from younger days, when practicing fertilization was far more urgent than watching the drama unfold on The Great British Baking Show

A largely unknown gem, Himalayan whorlflower is native to the Himalayan foothills, where it is found growing in sunny positions at altitudes of 9,000 to 12,000 feet—areas most of us would regard as serious mountains. Besides its native range, we can also attribute this perennial’s obscurity to its small genus, which only contains 14 species within the family Caprifoliaceae (the same family that includes Lonicera, the honeysuckles).

12 to 18 inches wide 30 to inches40tall Himalayan whorlflower (Morina longifolia) ZONES: 6–9 CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil

The headlining selling point is this plant’s performance. A rich green clump of narrow, evergreen leaves edged in relatively gentle spines gives rise to a summer’s worth of interest from the vertical flower stems that reach 30 to 40 inches tall. The flowers are carried in tiers up the stem, which makes the common name of whorlflower seem an inspired choice. After flowering, the prominent and persistent calyces add aesthetic detail, making these stems useful in late-season arrangements.

Super Cool Plants | FIND OUT WHAT THE EXPERTS ARE GROWING | continued on page 14 FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202212 | SOURCES |

• Far Reaches Farm, Port Townsend, WA; 360-385-5114; farreachesfarm.com

NATIVE RANGE: Pakistan, Tibet, the Himalaya region

.

With the exception of the much spinier Persian whorlflower (Morina persica, Zones 5–9), the other Morina species don’t pack a strong floral punch, leaving Himalayan whorlflower as undisputedly the most beautiful and most gardenworthy champion of the genus. On top of that, it is easy to grow in most sunny situations. While it is drought tolerant, heavy clay soil with slow drainage can lead to rot, especially in winter wetness. Whorlflower is deer resistant and propagated by seed. It requires very little attention, and we feel amply rewarded for the 2 minutes or less of annual maintenance we give each plant.

Kelly Dodson and Sue Milliken grow some of the coolest plants on the planet at Far Reaches Farm Nursery and Far Reaches Botanical Conservancy in Port Townsend, Washington.

Want the opposite of a bashful plant? Try this spiky summer stunner

• Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1130; diggingdog.com

FIND PETITE KNOCK OUT® ROSES AT A GARDEN RETAILER NEAR YOU www.KnockOutRoses.com MINIATURE true red blooms EASY CARE heat tolerant Petite Knock Out® ‘Meibenbino’ PP 30,811 U.S. Pat. No. 11,252,928 CPBRAF SHAKE UP your fall curb appeal with Petite™! There’s no better way to add a unique touch to your fall décor than with Petite Knock Out®. This miniature rose is the perfect size for arranging around pumpkins, stacking on hay bales, or accenting your favorite fall-themed doormat. You’ll enjoy its bold red flowers that keep blooming all season long! When the weather turns cold, keep Petite™ in its container or plant in the ground for décor that keeps giving year after year!

14 Illustr15).(p.BennerJennifer14);(p.ChoiceColorWinnersProvenofcourtesy12);(p.FarmReachesFarofcourtesyPhotos:ations:ElaraTanguy. SUPER COOL PLANTS continued from page 12 | SOURCES | • Bluestone Perennials, Madison, OH 800-852-5243; bluestoneperennials.com • White Flower Farm, Litchfield, CT 800-503-9624; whiteflowerfarm.com FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 2022 6 to 10 feet wide 6 to 10tallfeet Temple of Bloom® seven-son flower (Heptacodium miconioides ‘SMNHMRF’) ZONES: 5–9 CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: China

Susan Mertz is the director of horticulture at Powell Gardens in Kingsville, Missouri.

This flowerseven-sonoffersamorecompactformandearlierblooms Seven-son flower is often considered a tree for pollinator gardeners and plant collectors. In spring, it’s one of those plants at the garden center that shoppers might walk by without realizing the potential. This species doesn’t pop until late summer, but then it continues to dazzle through the winter. Thanks to the introduction of Temple of Bloom®, sevenson flower offers even more to get excited about, with improved form and earlier flowers—prized tree attributes even noncollectors are looking for. This quick-growing selection is ideal in mixed borders. At about half the height of the straight species, Temple of Bloom® is a phenomenal option for gardens where space is tight or at a premium. Midsummer is when Temple of Bloom® makes a statement, with clusters of white flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. After the white flowers fade, showy, rosy red calyces are visible. As summer ends, the leaves turn yellow and drop off, leaving the exfoliating bark to take center stage as striking winter interest. At Powell Gardens’ gatehouse, we showcase our seven-son flowers in a high-impact, minimal maintenance bed combined with summer perennials and ornamental grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium and cvs., Zones 4–9) and feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora cvs., Zones 4–10). Because this tree is late to leaf out, it also combines well with spring bulbs and ephemerals planted near the base. In a mixed border in my home garden, my tree is surrounded with a delightful mix of crocus (Crocus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), daffodils (Narcissus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), and bloodroots (Sanguinaria canadensis and cvs., Zones 3–9). A red-flowering buckeye (Aesculus pavia and cvs., Zones 5–9) is nearby to help complete the spring show. As summer comes on, hardy ferns and ‘Caramel’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Caramel’, Zones 4–8) fill in and complement the light tan and deeper cinnamon color of the seven-sons’ bark. This remarkable tree is easy to care for once established, asking only for full sun and perhaps an annual feeding in spring if a soil test indicates a nutritional deficiency. It’s tolerant of light shade and best pruned in late winter if you wish to shape it. I keep my tree pruned up to highlight the exfoliating bark on the lower trunk. Other gardeners like to prune their specimens into a shrublike form. No matter if you choose to prune it or let it go au naturel, Temple of Bloom® doesn’t disappoint.

While this elephant’s ear is by no means new, when you see it you can’t help but want to shout its praises from the rooftops. At least that’s how we felt when we encountered ‘Mojito’ during a visit to the Chicago Botanic Garden. The massive leaves (up to 2 feet long and 1 foot wide) seem otherworldly and wildly wonderful with their random splotches atop dramatically dark stems. The deep purple on chartreuse is striking, giving this plant the ability to shine all on its own in a container or as a focal point in a planting bed. Creating color echoes with ‘Mojito’ is easy with the help of low-growing plants such as golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia* ‘Aurea’, Zones 4–8) and black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus Zones 6–11). For gardeners in cooler regions, the tubers can be lifted easily and stored during winter for an encore performance the following year. elephant’s ear (Colocasia esculenta* ‘Mojito’) Santa Fe, NM; Danielson, CT;

860-774-8038; logees.com GOTTA HAVE IT *See invasive alert on page 81.

‘Nigrescens’,

ZONES: 8–10 SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; rich, moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Asia | SOURCES | • High Country Gardens,

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‘Mojito’

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The Art & Soul of Spring

—Mary Crum, Holland, Pennsylvania

For birds only My home abuts a 15-acre nature preserve. Hence, a lot of deer like to visit my yard, garden, and bird feeders. One bird feeder, which hangs from a shepherd’s hook, is very enticing, and the deer were devouring the feed every night. To keep the deer away, I took an unused plastic wastebasket with handle grips and attached a wire. This allows me to cover the feeder each evening, which is when the deer do the most damage. In addition, I drilled several small holes in the bottom to allow rainwater to drain out. Not only has the nighttime grazing ended, but there is a lot less browsing in my extensive flower garden. And I’m spending a lot less money on bird feed. I also added a Slinky to the shepherd’s hook to discourage squirrels and chipmunks from climbing up.

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When did I last water that plant? To help me keep track of when I need to water my numerous houseplants, I use a dry erase board. I list each plant and record when I last watered each one. The board is easy to update, and now I can tell at a glance when I need to water my plants.

Protect those sprouts

—Tom Charbonneau, Arden Hills, Minnesota

Good for kneeling as well as sleeping Tony Fulmer’s tip about old chair cushions in garbage bags as knee protection is a good idea (July/August 2022, p. 10). For that same purpose, I use closed-cell foam pads made to go under sleeping bags. I fold over one of these 6-foot-long pads to create two layers when I’m working on hard ground; if I’m on an even harder surface such as concrete, I fold it again to make four layers. And if visiting grandkids need the pads for their original purpose, a quick hosing off restores them.

Gallagher.SavannahIllustration:contributors.theofcourtesyPhotos: ONE GARDENER TO ANOTHER

No more gnats Frustrated by buzzing gnats, I used a safety pin to attach a laundry dryer sheet inside my garden hat. The smell repelled the gnats that often swarm around my yard. Gardening is more pleasant without those annoying insects buzzing around my eyes and ears.

F GARDENNG WNNING P ••

—Adrienne Leder, Berkeley, California

—Victoria Kojcsich, Winston-Salem, North Carolina

I was searching for a way to help protect young sprouts and encourage their growth. I had used plastic container collars before, but birds and squirrels were not deterred, and the containers were blown by the wind. Then I cut a crown in a large plastic soup container and covered the lip with a thick circle of mulch to help keep the container in place and reduce water evaporation. The spikes in the “crown” deterred birds, squirrels, and slugs, and it also produced a quasi–greenhouse effect.

—Davis Steelquist, Sequim, Washington

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202216 Readers’ Tips | FROM

—Gwen Kannapel, Wallingford, Pennsylvania Premium

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Each year when my spring bulbs bloom, I always see some empty spots that I would like to fill for the next spring. In autumn after visiting the garden center, I pot up my new bulb purchases and sink the pots into my compost heap. In spring after the new bulbs have emerged, I arrange the pots in my garden just where I would like, and then I remove the bulbs and plant them.

—Marsha Lomis, Kleinburg, Ontario A window box for all seasons Here is a way to have plants in your window boxes in all four seasons of the year: Just get window box inserts for the spring bulbs. I planted grape hyacinth bulbs in one set of inserts (top photo), then removed them in May and put in another set of inserts, in which I planted For(bottomcreepingimpatiens,coleus,andJennyphoto).theremaining seasons I use the same set of inserts, but I remove the summer annuals and stick in sprigs of ornamental grasses for fall and evergreen branches for winter. Over winter I store the spring inserts outside, without disturbing the bulbs, until the next spring.

FINEGARDENING.COM 17 WE GARDENINGYOURNEEDTIPS! SENDTIPSYOURTO: eacandfg@taunton.com,pleaseincludehigh-resolutionphotosifpossibleWepay$25forhtipwepublish. $ PRIZE WINNINGFORTIP: A FREE subscriptionone-year to Fine Gardening Bulbs for empty spaces

—Marti Neely SOURCE: gardenweasel.com PRICE: $12

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202218

—Susan Calhoun

Marti Neely, FAPLD, owns and operates Marti Neely Design and Associates in Omaha, Nebraska.

To see more from these contributors, visit FineGardening.com/myregion.

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Two tools in one make this a versatile weed weapon

The 7-inch EZ Digger from A.M. Leonard has a hand-forged, sharp iron blade with a comma shape that can pull out the crown of the most stubborn weeds. It’s great at digging holes for planting as well, and the fine point of the blade is handy for making shallow soil impressions for sowing seeds. I also use it to roughen up the sides of plants in nursery pots and push off their containers; if a plant is rootbound, using this tool to whack a hole in the bottom of the pot will often free the plant. I spray-paint the handle of mine a bright color (see photo) to keep it from getting lost in the garden.

Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.

Fionuala Campion is the owner and manager of Cottage Gardens of Petaluma in Petaluma, California.

—Fionuala Campion SOURCE: pnetools.com PRICE: $20 A trowel with a twist that slices through the thickest roots I use my Garden Weasel multiuse transplanter for everything: light cultivating, weeding, transplanting thick ground covers, and planting annuals. Weeds don’t stand a chance when I have this little helper in my hand; it can cut through the toughest underground fibers. This 13-inch-long tool has four blades that are welded in the center at right angles. Two of the blades are slightly curved inward and meant for cutting through soil; the other two blades are notched and useful for sawing through more-compacted soil, roots, and other tough materials. Measurements in both inches and centimeters are clearly marked into the blades, making it a perfect tool for bulb planting or any other task where precision on a small scale is called for. This tool will make the perfect complement to your standard garden trowel.

A tool that I’m constantly turning to is my Barnel 15-inch combination cultivator/hoe. On one side of the forged head is a straight-edge hoe, and on the other side is a cultivator with four tines. This tool is the first thing I reach for when I need to weed, dig, till, rake, or cultivate in a confined space, such as between two plants. The sharp, stainless-steel hoe blade is particularly useful for hacking at the heftiest and most resilient weeds. Perfectly balanced and easy to grip, this cultivator/hoe weighs a little over a pound—not heavy, but with enough weight to put some force behind each swing.

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PRO TIPS FOR GROWING CURRANTS | MARCH IS A BUSY TIME at our hillside nursery in Vermont, where we grow all kinds of cold-hardy fruits, nuts, and berries. After a week up in the apple trees pruning with Silky saws and Felco pruners, it is very relaxing to be down on the ground again working with the chest-high currant bushes.Wegrow about a dozen types of currants. These pretty, vase-shaped shrubs are very hardy, have no thorns, and are easy to grow and to care for. If you plant a few in your garden, you will know it is really summertime when you come across waterfalls of glistening fruit, ripe for the taking. Here’s what you need to know to grow currants.

NATIVE RANGE: Europe, Asia, westernAmericaNorth These plants don’t ask for much. An annual application of compost and shredded bark mulch (above) helps currants thrive, and thinning about one-third of the canes once a year also encourages healthy growth. When thinning, focus on weak, damaged, or older stems. You can identify older stems, like the top branch in the photo below, by their paler bark color.

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FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202220 Edible Garden

GIVE THEM ENOUGH SPACE AND PLENTY OF MULCH Currant bushes look right at home tucked into a vegetable garden or ornamental bed. Space them 5 feet apart, and add a wheelbarrow of compost around the base of each shrub after planting. Apply new compost every other spring. We usually top the compost with bark mulch or straw, which helps to provide the cool, moist soil that currants like best. Every two years we scatter a vegan blend of alfalfa meal, azomite, and rock phosphate over the root zone to provide a boost of minerals and nutrients. AT A GLANCE Currant Ribes spp. and cvs. ZONES: 3–8 CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial waterresistantsoil.well-mulchedmoist,shade;cool,Inwarmerclimates,chooseheat-variet-ies,provideafternoonshade,andregularly.

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SIZE: 3 to 6 feet tall and wide ZONES: 4–8 This nonsweet black currant, excellent for preserves, juice, and wine, was developed in Canada for disease resistance.

FINEGARDENING.COM 21

6. ‘Crandall’ clove currant (Ribes odoratum ‘Crandall’) SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: ‘Crandall’3–8clove currant is a Great Plains native that produces spice-scented yellow spring flowers, followed by purpleblack fruits in midsummer.

3. ‘Consort’ black currant (Ribes nigrum ‘Consort’)

7. ‘Rovada’ red currant (Ribes rubrum ‘Rovada’) SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: 3–8 This is a newer selection of red currant from Holland that has big harvests of larger red fruit that cascade like waterfalls.

VARIETIES | Try some of these currant favorites Currants come in four colors: red, white, pink, and black. In New England, the red and the white are the most well known in gardens. Black currants are well loved in Europe and are starting to become popular on this side of the ocean too. Here are some of the cultivars we have had the most success growing.

5. ‘Titania’ black currant (Ribes nigrum ‘Titania’)

SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: 3–8 This heirloom pink currant has a flavor that is between a red and a white currant. It is possibly a natural cross between the two.

8. ‘Pink Champagne’ red currant (Ribes rubrum ‘Pink Champagne’) SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: 3–8 ‘Pink Champagne’ is a vigorous, small bush with tangy fruit that tastes a bit like pink grapefruit.

4. ‘White Imperial’ white currant (Ribes sativum ‘White Imperial’) SIZE: 5 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide ZONES: 3–8 ‘White Imperial’ is an old classic with transluscent fruits that are mild and slightly sweet but also tart. Some people prefer white currants over all others for their delicate flavor.

1. 5. 2. 6. 3. 7. 4. 8.

2. ‘Red Lake’ red currant (Ribes rubrum ‘Red Lake’)

SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: ‘Titania’3–8isa black currant that has good sweetness and produces heavy crops most years.

SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and wide ZONES: 3–7 ‘Red Lake’ is refreshing, juicy, and reliable. The fruit is large for a currant and is easy to pick.

1. ‘Gloire des Sablons’ red currant (Ribes rubrum ‘Gloire des Sablons’)

PEST PROTECTION AND PROPAGATION ARE STRAIGHTFORWARD

courtesphoto:Author8).(4,WorldGreenOneofcourtesy7);6,5,(2,millettephotomedia.com21:p.Photos©Alekleks/dreamstime.com.left:top20,p.PhotoCollins.Carolnoted:whereexceptPhotos,yofAnikaAdams.

• One Green World, Portland, OR 877-353-4028; onegreenworld.com

• Elmore Roots, Wolcott, VT 802-888-3305; elmoreroots.com

| SOURCES |

SPECIALIST David Fried is a plant pioneer who tests and propagates edible forest plants at Elmore Roots nursery in northern Vermont.

Although these shrubs are very lowmaintenance, they benefit from annual thinning. At the nursery, we thin ours in late winter to early spring, but plants respond well to thinning almost any time of the year. Starting with dead, weak, and wounded stems, remove around one-third of all stems from each bush. This will direct all of the plant’s fruitgrowing energy to the strong, vigorous stems that remain.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202222 EDIBLE GARDEN continued from page 20

• Raintree Nursery, Morton, WA 800-391-8892; raintreenursery.com

Gather fruit by the handful. Ripe currants slip easily off the stem, and since the fruit grows in clusters, you’ll be able to gather an impressive harvest in very little time. fectly ripe. That way if the birds get to the ripest fruit before you do, the early harvest will be safely tucked away for later use in jellies, jams, and juices. Currants root very easily from cuttings.

Just cut a piece of stem in early spring before the plant begins to leaf out, and stick it deep into the earth; it will generally root and create a new plant.

• Restoring Eden, Seatac, WA 253-202-5587; restoringeden.co

• Whitman Farms, Salem, OR 503-585-8728; whitmanfarms.com

HOW TO USE YOUR HARVEST

The best way to enjoy currants is by the handful, fresh off the bush. They are also excellent in jams and jellies, either alone or mixed with other fruit. Currant shrub is easily made by mashing and straining red currants and mixing one part currant juice, one part water, and either a half-part sugar or a quarter-part maple syrup. After chilling the mixture, serve it over ice. The taste of this traditional fruit is catching on, and our local beer companies and gelato stores are using them to create new flavors. In fact, Elmore Roots recently planted 50 ‘Pink Champagne’ currants at the request of a local beer maker, and we are looking forward to driving large harvests over there a few years down the line.

Although currants are usually not troubled by pests, birds are likely to get some of your harvest. I suggest planting some bushes for you and some for the birds. You can try stringing up reflective holographic ribbon or old CDs above fruiting bushes, but it won’t stop them all. Another trick is to harvest and freeze some fruit a little early, before it is per-

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Eriophyid mites—harmless or harmful?

ACALITUS FERRUGINEUM: This mite induces white to yellow erineum galls on leaves of American beech (Fagus grandifolia and cvs., Zones 3–9) that later fade to rusty brown and can be confused with beech leaf disease.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202224 | SCIENCE-BASED INFORMATION FOR A HEALTHIER GARDEN | Plant MD

ACULOPS RHOIS: The poison ivy gall mite feeds on poison oak and poison ivy. I appreciate this mite for slowing down poison ivy patches. Many other eriophyids are considered beneficial biocontrol agents of weeds and other unwanted plants.

WHAT ARE THEY?

SCIENCE | MEET A FEW MITES

Interestingly, eriophyids are not at all closely related to spider mites, a common garden woe. These ancient mites are very successful in natural ecosystems and are highly specialized—meaning that they usually have close relationships with a host plant species or a group of related plants. Thousands of species have been described, but this is surely only a small number of the species that exist. Species that wander freely over plant surfaces are referred to as “vagrants.” Vagrant species that can be notable plant pests include the rust mites and russet mites, named for the symptoms they produce when Eriophyid mites are difficult to see with the unaided eye. This is a microscopic image of a rust mite (Aceria anthocoptes) on Canada thistle.

ACERIA DINA: The black tupelo leaf roll gall mite decorates the leaf edges of black tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica and cvs., Zones 3–9) with a beautiful wavy crinkling. It does no significant harm to the host.

ACALITUS RUELLIAE: This mite causes white to pink erineum (velvety galled patches) on Mexican petunia (Ruellia simplex and cvs., Zones 7–10). This is often mistaken for a powdery or downy mildew infection, but it causes only minor stunting.

Eriophyids can be severe pests, minor aesthetic concerns, or beneficial contributors. Thus, each case of infestation should be considered on its own. Here are a few examples of infestation symptoms and the mites responsible.

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IF YOU’VE EVER BATTLED rose rosette disease or encountered odd leaf deformities, you should care about eriophyid mites. I find the juxtaposition of their incredibly small size with the bizarre, outsize effects they can induce fascinating. They are diverse in their habits and are a satisfying challenge to identify. These mites vary greatly in importance to the gardener, from severe pest to beneficial biocontrol agent to pleasant curiosity, so understanding them better can save you a lot of worry and effort.

Eriophyid mites (superfamily Eriophyoidea) are microscopic creatures ranging from about 0.1 to 0.3 mm. You cannot clearly see even the largest with the naked eye. A 10x hand lens or magnifying glass is barely sufficient, but 20x magnification or greater will reveal them. They are often described as having a cigar or wormlike shape, with a thin body tapering at the end. Many shorter eriophyids look like tiny translucent carrots and are even yellow to orange in color. Unlike all other mites and arachnids, eriophyids are unique by having only two pairs of tiny legs at the front of their body.

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Chemical. Horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, kaolin clay, and sulfur products are all useful for controlling eriophyid mites. More-powerful miticides are available, but these are rarely necessary in the home garden. It is imperative that proper identification and research be done first, as there are specific recommendations for control of pest species, such as the correct timing of oil applications, and you certainly don’t want to harm those mites that serve as a helpful biocontrol. present in large numbers. Look for abnormal bronzing, yellowing, or graying discoloration with a dusty, almost rusty effect.

WHAT TO DO ABOUT THEM?

Some eriophyids are severe pests, while most are relatively benign or of aesthetical concern. As with any potential pest, proper identification followed by research is necessary before deciding what you should do about it.

Cultural. There is an oft-repeated theory stating that pests only attack plants that are weak, poorly cultivated, or lacking the correct balance of nutrients. There are indeed insects and mites that specialize on stressed and declining plants; however, the overall theory is a poor generalization, especially for organisms having close relationships with their host plants. A more accurate generalization would be to say that strong, healthy plants are better able to tolerate and coexist with the herbivores that rely on them for food. Therefore, keeping your garden plants healthy will help them tolerate eriophyid mite activity but will not deter eriophyid species that look to those plant species as their natural host and habitat.

Hemlock rust mites, taxodium rust mites, and tomato russet mites are other common vagrants who cause plant symptoms. Many other eriophyid species do not wander freely but induce strange symptoms on their host plant as they feed, producing plant structures that play a role in the life cycle of the mite. These mites are named based on these structures we frequently encounter and include the gall mites, bud mites, blister mites, and erineum mites.

Biological. Eriophyids are not well equipped to defend themselves from predators. They have no fierce stinger, powerful

GOOD TO KNOW |

biting jaws, or toxins for protection. Therefore, they rely on their great numbers, miniscule size, or ability to hide in the plant structures they induce. They find protection beneath bud scales; inside curled leaves, leaf blisters, or galled shoots; or within dense, abnormal felty growth of hairs (erineum). Exposed eriophyids are eaten by many predators, such as small lady beetles, predatory gall midge larvae, and predatory mites.

SPECIALIST Matthew Borden, DPM, is a plant health consultant specializing in diagnostics and integrated management of landscape plant pests and diseases. Rose rosette disease requires specialized management. The eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphilus is the virus vector of this unusually severe plant ailment.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202226 PLANT MD continued from page 24 |

Since most eriophyid mites are host-specific, the trick to identifying them is to start searching with the host plant identity and symptom description. Cooperative Extension websites have excellent pages on eriophyid mites. An older but still useful resource is An Illustrated Guide to Plant Abnormalities Caused by Eriophyid Mites in North America, which can be found in the USDA National Agricultural Library Digital Collections. (Go to naldc .nal.usda.gov and search “Eriophyidae.”)

Sanitary. For gardeners in the excellent habit of scouting plants regularly, eriophyids really do us a favor by causing such visible symptoms. They show where they are living and feeding, at least for part of the season. Removing plant parts affected by eriophyids is an excellent basic management technique. It is unlikely you’ll eradicate them, but you can reduce their numbers and their effects on the plants. Removal is particularly important for severe galling or witches’ brooming effects.

Resources to help ID mites

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FINEGARDENING.COM 27 Youth gardens are bringing communities together and inspiring young gardeners to take action to help their neighbors. Gardening educates youth through experience and empowers them to be a force for good. Support our work to ensure all kids have the opportunity to learn and grow in a youth garden. Cultivate Community Point your smartphone camera to scan and give online at KidsGardening.org. KidsGardening is a national 501(c)(3) tax-exempt organization.

HOUSEPLANTS IT WORKS FOR • Ficus • Monstera • Philodendron ◂ To make use of the rest of the stem, take advantage of leaf-bud cuttings Leaf-bud cuttings are like stem-tip cuttings, except you are missing the terminal bud of the stem. If you can take a stem-tip cutting from a plant, you can take a leaf-bud cutting from it as well. If you’ve already taken a stem-tip cutting from a plant shoot, you can then take leaf-bud cuttings farther down the stem. To take a leaf-bud cutting, make two cuts: one below and one above a leaf node. The leaf-bud cutting should include a small section of stem, a node, and an axillary bud. You also can take a heel cutting by cutting out the node and leaf with a section of the main stem tissue attached. Insert the piece of stem that is below the leaf node (closest to the crown of the plant) into the water or rooting medium. A callus will develop, and new roots will develop from the cut portion of the stem; a new shoot will emerge from the axillary bud in the leaf axil. As with stem-tip cuttings, most houseplants can be propagated from this method.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202228 Leslie F. Halleck is a horticulturist and author of several books, including Plant Parenting: Easy Ways to Make More Houseplants, Vegetables, and Flowers and Tiny Plants: Discover the Joys of Growing and Collecting HouseplantsItty-Bitty . |

HOUSEPLANT ADVICE AND INSIGHT |

Indoor Gardening

▸ Stem-tip cuttings work for houseplantsmost Stem-tip cuttings are herbaceous or softwood cuttings that include the terminal bud of a plant shoot and typically two to three nodes. You can propagate most of your houseplants with stem-tip cuttings. Choose a healthy, flowerless shoot from the mother plant, then make a clean cut using a sharp tool that’s 3 to 5 inches below the shoot tip. Remove any additional lateral stems (side shoots) and the lower leaves. Depending on the species, new roots may develop at a node or from a callus that develops on the wounded portion of the stem. You can then insert the cutting into potting mix or another growing medium where it will quickly develop new roots. WORKS Ficus (Ficus spp. and cvs., Zones 6–12) Monstera (Monstera spp. and cvs., Zones Philodendron (Philodendron spp. and cvs., Zones

10–12) •

9–12)

•

FOR •

Five ways to propagate through cuttings

HOUSEPLANTS IT

THERE’S NOTHING more satisfying to a gardener than growing more of the plants you love and doing it from scratch. Whether you’re growing new specimens from a houseplant you already have or rooting a precious cutting of a rare species, the sight of new roots and shoots always gets a plant lover’s heart pounding. While starting plants from seed is certainly gratifying, seed propagation isn’t always practical or possible when it comes to houseplants. Vegetative propagation, or taking cuttings, is often the best and only viable propagation method that home gardeners can use to make more of their favorite indoor plants. This method is also necessary when you want exact copies of the plant you already have, especially if that plant happens to be a hybrid. Here are five different types of cuttings you can take to propagate houseplants. Each method is suitable for different situations and different plants.

FINEGARDENING.COM 29 | BASICS | LEARN THE LINGO The discussion of propagation involves a number of terms you may not be familiar with. Here are some concise definitions to help you become a propagator.successful PETIOLE: A stalk that connects a leaf to a stem TERMINAL BUD: A bud at the very end of a shoot AXILLARY BUD: A bud in a leaf axil STEM: Plant tissue that bears buds and shoots with leaves and roots and that contains the vascular system, which conducts water, minerals, and sugars NODE: The position on a stem where the buds and leaves originate LEAF AXIL: The position along a shoot where leaves develop Our harps sing in the breeze! 419.368.3415 www.MohicanWindHarps.com dan@mohicanwindharps.com WindMohicanHarps Enjoy your harp as the centerpiece of your garden, patio or Builder/designerdeck.ofoutdoormetalharpsculpturesthatsinginthebreeze! *Makesupto128gallonswith1tablespoonpergallon.FullMoneyBackGuarantee! *Commercialquantitiesavailable-WorksOnEverything ® Grow higher quality fruits & vegetables with more color, better taste, less bug infestations & disease. Contains all the elements in the periodic table (sea nutrients, amino acids, humic, fulvic, and other herbal extracts). All natural, toxin free, & bioavailable. Non-leaching formula / nutrients accumulate over time. Perfect for gardeners, growers, ranchers and farmers. 64oz Jug 3495 + Free Shipping!! Tomato Plant

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INDOOR GARDENING continued

HOUSEPLANTS IT WORKS FOR • Begonia (Begonia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–12)

• Radiator plant (Peperomia spp. and cvs., Zones 10–12) • Gesneriads, including African violets (Streptocarpus sect. saintpaulia, Zones 10–12)

▸ Use whole-leaf cuttings for succulents Some houseplants can grow new roots and bud shoots from the cells at the very base of their leaves, without a petiole attached. Many succulents naturally have sessile leaves (leaves directly attached to the stem with no petiole) and are thus easy to propagate from wholeleaf cuttings. If a leaf falls from your plant, or you remove it from where it attaches to the stem, just make sure the base of the leaf is intact. You can allow fleshy succulent leaves to dry and callus over for several days, then set them lightly on top of a rooting medium. Don’t water until roots begin to form. However, whole-leaf cuttings of plants such as begonias or African violets may need some moisture or even a humidity dome.

• Ficus • Monopodal orchids, including plants in the genus Dendrobium (Zones 9–10) from 29

HOUSEPLANTS IT WORKS FOR • Begonia • Gesneriads • Succulents

HOUSEPLANTS IT WORKS FOR • Corn plant (Dracaena spp. and cvs., Zones 9–12)

Certain houseplants are capable of being propagated via leafpetiole cuttings. These species can grow new adventitious roots (roots that form from any non-embryonic or nonroot tissue) and bud shoots directly from the leaf petiole without sacrificing any stem. Simply cut away a leaf with a section of its attached petiole, then place the cut portion of the petiole into water or a rooting medium. A callus will develop on the wounded petiole, from which new roots and then a new bud shoot will develop. If you root a leaf-petiole cutting in substrate or potting mix, the new bud shoot will emerge from beneath the surface. If you so choose, you can then snip off the new plantlet with its roots from the original petiole.

• Umbrella tree (Schefflera spp. and cvs., Zones 10–12)

▸ For thick-stemmed plants, use cane cuttings Cane cuttings, which are a type of stem cutting, are an effective way to propagate houseplants that grow thick, sectioned stems. Upright monopodal orchids can also be propagated by removing a section of cane. Cane cuttings are the perfect way to start over with a houseplant that has become leggy or developed an otherwise unattractive growth habit. Remove a 2- to 3-inch section of older main cane without any leaves. You can place the cutting in water or on top of a growing medium either vertically or horizontally (pictured). If horizontally, be sure to bury about half of the cane. Make sure there is a node with an axillary bud facing up and away from the growing medium.

▸ requirecuttingsLeaf-petioledon’tanystem

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FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202230

9. Keep in mind that it’s illegal to propagate patented plants (plants with a registered trademark name).

FINEGARDENING.COM 31 CasCade 5000 Floating Pond Fountain Aerator shpondaerator.com Complete 1 hp unit w/ light, timer, 100’ power cord. Pre-assembled - installs in minutes! Call 7 days / week ∙FAST UPS SHIPPING! 608-254-2735 $AVE HUNDREDS!!! ONE YEAR WARRANTY! 10-15’ high! Elegance WaterImproved&Quality! Catch the Sunshine! Durable, a ordable, & made in the USA! • Now with rounded corners • INTRODUCTORY OFFER Sample pack of 8 styles plus a marking pencil JUST $7.50www.EverlastLabel.com Try it now to get regional gardening advice from local experts. Learn more FineGardening.com/All-Accessat 9 TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL PROPAGATION Keep these guidelines in mind before making the cut. 1. Always start with a healthy, pest-free, and disease-free mother plant. 2. Take cuttings in the morning or when plants are fully turgid. 3. Most soft tropical houseplants, especially vining tropicals with aerial roots, are relatively easy to water-root. 4. Certain houseplants, especially those with tougher or succulent stems, may root more successfully in moist, aerated media such as a lightweight indoor potting mix, coir, perlite, floral foam, rockwool, or sphagnum moss. 5. Use a powder rooting hormone on your cuttings to speed up the rooting process. Gel rooting hormones are good for water-rooted cuttings.

6. When water-rooting or rooting succulents, there is no need to cover the cuttings. When rooting cuttings in an inert growing medium (one that contains no additional nutrients), cover your cuttings with a humidity dome or other plastic material.

8. Do research on the specific species you want to propagate and which tissues can generate both new roots and bud shoots. Otherwise, you could end up with a “blind cutting”—a cutting that grows new roots but never produces a new bud shoot.

7. Vegetative cuttings require much less light to root than seedlings, and grow lights are not essential. However, cuttings typically root faster in more-intense light and under grow lights.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202232 UNUSUAL FALL PERENNIALS These lesser-known stars will extend the season with unexpected color BY ANDY BRAND ‘Ozawa’ allium Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 18 to 24 inches tall and 10 to 15 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; medium, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan, Korea, coastal China

ZONES: 3–7 SIZE: 2 to 4 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide

Fall is a wonderful time in the garden. The cool, crisp air encourages plants toward dormancy; perennial foliage starts to yellow and wither as deciduous trees paint the landscape with a kaleidoscope of colors. As we reluctantly accept the inevitable and begin preparing our gardens for winter, we can ease the transition by planting selections that provide color and excitement at this time of year. While many gardeners have traditionally turned to mums (Chrysanthemum spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9), goldenrods (Solidago spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), and sedums (Hylotelephium spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) to extend the gardening season, many also long for something different. Luckily, there are many unusual, lesser-known perennials that offer gardeners exciting opportunities to create dynamic, late-season displays.

‘Arendsii’ monkshood features 4-foot-tall stems topped with dense panicles of richly saturated cobalt-blue flowers. Place this stately perennial toward the back of the border in rich, consistently moist but not overly wet soil. Sunny sites are fine for cooler regions, as long as the soil is not allowed ‘Arendsii’ monkshood Aconitum carmichaelii ‘Arendsii’

CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil

NATIVE RANGE: Central China

FINEGARDENING.COM 33

SPECTACULAR PICKS FOR SUN Alliums typically make wonderful contributions to mixed spring and summer beds and borders. Stunning globes in shades of pink, purple, and white sit atop stems ranging from a diminutive 8 inches to a towering 4 feet in height. ‘Ozawa’ allium, which starts to bloom in September, is one of the latestflowering alliums in the genus. Somewhat droopy spheres of luscious, lavender-purple flowers rise above mounds of attractive grasslike foliage. Unlike some alliums, ‘Ozawa’ rarely produces seedlings and is not aggressive. Best suited to free-draining soil, this floriferous bulbous plant blooms for weeks and will be abuzz with happy, hungry bees in the waning light of autumn days. “Better late than never” could be said about the flowers of monkshood, which usually don’t start blooming in earnest until early to mid-October.

Diminutive ‘Snow Flurry’ heath aster is a prostrate form of native heath aster. Its stiff, arching stems, which are covered in needlelike foliage, look a little like a creeping juniper (Juniperus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). When ‘Snow Flurry’ blooms in midfall, the abundance of tiny white flowers often entirely conceals the leaves. A lover of sun and well-drained soil, this little powerhouse is the perfect choice for rock gardens or the front of a sunny border. Its unique, creeping habit is especially effective when the stems are allowed to cascade over stone walls or meander between rocks. It looks wonderful planted en masse where it can truly look like a blanket of Ornamentalsnow.grasses are structural plants that act as the backbone of garden plantings, frequently adding ‘Snow Flurry’ heath aster ericoidesSymphyotrichum var. prostratum ‘Snow Flurry’ ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 3 to 8 inches tall and 1 to 3 feet wide

CONDITIONS: Full sun; medium to well-drainedmoist,soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States

ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 2½ feet wide

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202234 to dry out, while gardeners in warmer areas should provide dappled shade. If you are like me and usually forget to provide support to tall perennials likely to flop, ‘Arendsii’ will put your mind at ease; its stout stems stand at attention, rarely requiring staking. But be sure to wear gloves while handling this plant, as all parts of it are poisonous.

‘Plum Peachy’ narrow-leaf ironweed sports clusters of vibrant lavender-violet flowers that contrast spectacularly with the warm-colored tones of other plants in fall. As the common name suggests, the foliage is thin and linear; it looks a lot like bluestar (Amsonia spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9) foliage. The leaves add a wonderful contrasting texture when placed near big, bold-foliaged neighbors. Although this species is native to the Southeast, it does well in more northern climates. Here in the Northeast, the graceful clumps don’t start to flower until October and continue to bloom for several weeks or until a killing frost, to the delight of late-flying pollinators. As a bonus, the narrow foliage takes on a purplish blush toward the middle of fall, just in time to highlight the violetFindingflowers.aground cover that produces flowers in autumn can be difficult, but when you succeed it’s definitely cause for celebration!

CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; dry to moist, welldrained soil NATIVE RANGE: North America ‘Plum ironweednarrow-leafPeachy’ Vernonia angustifolia ‘Plum Peachy’

FINEGARDENING.COM 35 DwyerMarkofcourtesybottom);34,(p.OndraJ.Nancybottom);andinset38,p.top;34,p.32;(p.BrandAndyofcourtesyphotos:OtherKoehm.DIananoted:whereexceptPhotos,(p.35);KerryAnnMoore(p.37,top);courtesy©MonroviabyDoreenWynja(p.39,top);SteveAitken(p.39,bottomright);MichelleGervais(p.39,bottomleft). big‘Blackhawks’bluestem Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks’ ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 4 to 5 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; dry to medium, welldrained soil NATIVE RANGE: North America

Photo: FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202236 |

Tips on dividing perennials

Replantflowergrowthexcessandstems.andwater.

BASICS |

MAKE THE RIGHT CUTS Using a spade or fork, lift the perennial from the ground and shake off some of the soil. This will help you see natural places to split the plant. Make sure each division will have two to three strong growing points and a decent root system before you divide; if these conditions are met, you can divide the plant into as many pieces as you want. Be sure to sterilize whatever tool you use to cut the roots prior to dividing, as well as between different plants, to reduce the chance of spreading disease. Dig up and lift the perennial from the ground. Divide the root system, and cut off

Dividing perennials is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get more plants. All of the perennials featured in this article can be divided, but how and when should you do it? Here are some principles and guidelines to keep in mind for best results.

Dividing puts a lot of strain on a perennial; by being uprooted and cut into pieces, a plant loses part of its root system. A freshly divided plant needs to conserve water and put energy into creating new roots. If there is already substantial growth on the plant, the root system may be spread too thin to be divided. Trying to maintain a mass of foliage and then being asked to establish new roots might be too much for the plant. If there are a lot of leaves, the plant may also be losing water faster to transpiration than it can replenish with a smaller root system. For these reasons, dividing a perennial in summer when the weather is hot and sunny and the plant already has a lot of growth is a bad idea.

UNDERSTAND THE SCIENCE BEHIND DIVISION

GET THE TIMING RIGHT Spring is the best time to divide a perennial because there is less growth on the plant than later in the growing season and the weather is mild. To ease the stress on the plant, try to time your division to coincide with a stretch of cloudy, rainy weather, and be diligent about watering for several weeks after division. You can also divide perennials in fall (pictured), but you should cut back some of the foliage and any flower stalks to help it conserve energy and water. Don’t divide in late fall, because plants may not have enough time to establish themselves by winter. Perennials that have been divided too late in the season may also be susceptible to frost heaving over winter.

Japanese‘Cheju-Do’bugbane Actaea japonica ‘Cheju-Do’

ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan, northeastKorea,China

One plant that would make a wonderful addition to the garden for its foliage, even if it never produced a single flower, is yellow wax bells. This hydrangea relative can grow to shrublike proportions in shady areas with moist, well-drained soil. Sturdy stems dressed in bold, sycamore-like leaves add structure and texture to a shady border. In early fall, terminal, branched clusters of gumball-shaped flower buds open to butter yellow bells; these flowers have a prolonged bloom period. Yellow wax bells is a favorite of slugs and snails, so keep some diatomaceous earth on hand to deal with these unwelcome visitors. When most people think of bugbane, they usually picture Actaea simplex (Zones 3–8), a late summer bloomer with several selections sporting stunning purple-black foliage. ‘Cheju-Do’ Japanese bugbane, which is from Cheju Island in South Korea, is a Yellow wax bells palmataKirengeshoma

FINEGARDENING.COM 37

ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 2 to 4 feet tall and 1½ to 2 feet wide

CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan, China, Korea nearly year-round color and texture to designs. However, it’s in fall when most step up and capture our attention. One of the most impactful native grasses is big bluestem, which can achieve an impressive height. ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem (photo p. 35) possesses all the great qualities of the species, along with one big bonus: The wide, graceful blades that emerge green in spring gradually shift to purple and finally a dark purple-black as fall progresses. Elegant flowering stems may rise 7 feet tall, topped by three-parted inflorescences that look like turkey plumage. Like all other big bluestems, ‘Blackhawks’ is an adaptable, drought-tolerant plant that performs admirably with little care. Avoid very fertile or amended soil as well as shade; these conditions will cause lodging or flopping. To take full advantage of the dramatic color of ‘Blackhawks’, dot it periodically throughout a garden bed (see “Designing for year-round interest, p. 39), or if space allows, make a statement and plant this exceptional nativar en masse. And for those of us who garden in deer country, Bambi and friends will walk on by.

SELECTIONS THAT SHINE IN SHADE

ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and 2½ to 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, welldrained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan

TanguyElaraIllustration: lesser-known cousin that deserves gardeners’ attention. Preferring moist soil and shaded environments, ‘ChejuDo’ Japanese bugbane produces attractive clumps of dark-green lobed leaves that appear as if they had been dipped in resin. From underneath the glossy leaves emerge erect stems with pearl-like flower buds that open to small white stars, adding a striking vertical element to any shady border. The combination of its exceptional foliage and fall flowers makes this plant a must for any low-light spot.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202238

In summer, weeping golden toad lily fades into the background of a woodland border with its shrubby, arching habit of glossy green leaves. It’s not until midfall when it grabs your attention with 1- to 2-inchlong yellow, bell-shaped flowers. Bending over and looking inside the flowers will reveal maroon insides. Because these alluring flowers are best seen when looked at from below, consider planting this toad lily where it can cascade over rocks or a wall. Consistent moisture, rich, fertile soil, and dappled shade are a must in order to keep the leaves looking their best. Crispy, brown leaf edges can be expected when soil is allowed to dry out, so keep the hose handy. Japanese shrub mint is an underused woodland perennial whose habit is very shrublike. All this perennial needs to be happy are shade and soil that doesn’t dry out. Its semi-woody stems reach 3 feet tall, forming rounded mounds of coarsely toothed, fuzzy, hydrangea-like foliage. Deer ignore this plant, and it looks attractive throughout the growing season. By midfall, the end of each stem blooms with unique 3- to 4-inch-long angular inflorescences with bracts arranged in a herringbone pattern. From the bracts emerge small, pale lavender flowers that turn the inflorescences into sparkling wands. Try out one of these unusual fall perennials, and watch as your autumn garden transforms from a fading, transitional group of plants into a spectacular display. Andy Brand is the director of horticulture at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay. Weeping golden toad lily Tricyrtis macrantha subsp. macranthopsis ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 1½ to 2 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moist, welldrained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan shrubJapanesemint stellipilumLeucosceptrum

6. Lavender Twist® Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Covey’, Zones 5–9)

|

• Plant Delights Nursery, Raleigh, NC; 919-772-4794; plantdelights.com

Designing for year-round interest

• Far Reaches Farm, Townsend, WA; 360-385-5114; farreachesfarm.com

• Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1130; diggingdog.com

Arkansas bluestar is adorned with clusters of star-shaped light blue flowers in spring. Its stripy leaves add texture to any design through spring, summer, and fall, and its faded foliage remains standing, grasslike, throughout winter. Rozanne geranium has tiny purple-blue flowers with white centers. While the flowers bloom in spring, they can also bloom ofthroughoutsporadicallytherestthegrowingseason. During winter, the bare branches of Lavender Twist® Eastern redbud add structure to empty garden beds. In spring, a profusion of purple-pink flowers erupts all along the branches. Then in summer, large green leaves completely cover the tree, sometimes eclipsing the branches.

While this design works hard all year, it looks spectacular in autumn. ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem towers above the display in majestic pillars of fine-textured purple-black foliage. Below, a large mound of native Arkansas bluestar shines with orange-chartreuse foliage, while the dark green foliage of ‘Plum Peachy’ narrow-leaf ironweed stands in contrast to its frilly, light purple flowers. That periwinkle color is echoed in the globelike flowers of low, mounding ‘Ozawa’ allium. A carpet of Rozanne geranium surrounding the alliums shows off its multicolored red, orange, and green fall foliage. Above the scene, the graceful arms of weeping Lavender Twist® Eastern redbud are adorned with heart-shaped chartreuse leaves that echo the yellow foliage of Arkansas bluestar.

PLANTING PLAN |

2. Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii, Zones 5–8)

4. ‘Ozawa’ allium

3. ‘Plum Peachy’ narrow-leaf ironweed

SOURCES |

• Broken Arrow Nursery, Hamden, CT; 203-288-1026; brokenarrownursery.com

FINEGARDENING.COM 39 1 3 5 2 6 4 |

1. ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem

5. Rozanne geranium (Geranium ‘Gerwat’, Zones 5–8)

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202240

W hether you live in an urban setting or a slightly larger suburban spot, space can often be a factor when it comes to garden choices. We all face a conundrum: What do I truly have space for? And what is really important to include in a garden if I want it to be as interesting as possible? When faced with big questions like these, it’s best to ask the experts, so we consulted two award-winning designers: Christie Dustman from the East BY DANIELLE SHERRY DESIGN

WEST COAST GARDEN

A pair of garden designers show how limited space doesn’t

Design decisions must be carefully considered in tight spaces. For a garden in Seattle, that meant linear hardscaping and inventive containers (top). In Boston, four-season plants and outdoor-living features were essential (bottom).

FINEGARDENING.COM 41

have to mean limited interest, in a front yard or a backyard Coast and Courtney Olander from the West Coast. Each was recently asked by two distinct clients to plan and plant a small city garden, and through those experiences they learned a lot of hard lessons about what works (and what doesn’t) when building a successful small landscape. If you are struggling with a lack of square footage, let the following profiles on each of these gorgeous city gardens inspire you.

EAST COAST GARDEN DESIGN

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202242 EAST COAST GARDEN DESIGN

There was room for everything. Two seating areas, a shed, and even a dry streambed all contribute to the good looks of this space. The landscape is roof-deckviewedimpressiveespeciallywhenfromtheabove. backyard that provides privacy and a place to party

A

The stillelementsnonlivingareapriority. Gravel paths, two stone patios, and boulders provide structure that can be counted on year-round. CIRCABEFORE:2017 1. Stone bridge 2. First patio 3. Shed 4. Dry streambed 5. Elevated planting area 6. Planters for edibles 7. Roof-deck 8. Second patio Key elements WHAT: Skinny backyard on a tight city lot SIZE: 1,800 square feet ZONE: 6 CONDITIONS: Full sun (with a tiny spot of shade); dry, well-drained soil that was amended liberally CHALLENGES: Lack of privacy from the neighboring homes; no year-round interest; no room for entertaining DESIGNER: Christie Dustman LOCATION: Boston 3 5 6 4 1 2 7 8

The first step was to map out future circulation patterns through the space. These paths would ensure free passage around new plantings and planned seating areas, and they would provide access to a new custom shed at the rear of the

FINEGARDENING.COM 43 GallagherSavannahIllustrations:

THE CITY OF BOSTON IS WELL-KNOWN for its storied past, which is on full display along each street of historic row houses. Such were the surroundings Christie Dustman found herself in when she first arrived at this charming narrow lot east of the city center. Sandwiched between two neighboring homes, the backyard was quite skinny and lacking any appreciable outdoor living space. The goal, as Christie put it, was to create “a hidden magical oasis in a small urban backyard within a very tightly packed city.” This was accomplished by adding elevated garden beds, installing unique hardscaping, and making privacy a top priority. The result was a stunning private refuge within a bustling metropolitan area.

DON’T SCRIMP ON THE HARDSCAPE

adds even more of a wow-factor to the space. The stonework shines year-round and looks good even when this New England garden is buried in snow. The hardscaping does take up a lot of real estate, but it provides invaluable bones to the garden.

ADD SOME ELEVATION

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202244

Containers pull double duty. The deep planters along the property line provide extra planting space and help soften the fence line. garden. Yes, the paths could have been small and narrow like the space itself, but this, argues Christie, would have made the garden feel claustrophobic. Instead, she opted for generous peastone walkways. The same approach of “no downsizing needed” was taken with the rest of the hardscaping. Stonework abounds in this backyard, from two bluestone patios to the various irregular boulders scattered about as four-season focal points. There is even a stone bridge (built from a recycled curb) connecting two parts of the garden, a stone wall for visual height variation, and a dry streambed that Why not add a bridge? This recycled city curb is an undeniable focal point and provides easy access to the elevated portion of the garden.

Chofcourtesy43:p.photos,Topdoreenwynja.com.top:40-41,pp.PhotoSherry.Daniellenoted:whereexcept40-45,pp.PhotosristieDustman.

Like most city lots, this backyard was very flat. Adding some sort of contour to the land seemed like an admirable goal to Christie and her team. Elevation would also help with another challenge: making the garden look good from several vantage points (the first floor of the home, the roof-deck on the second floor, and a new patio at ground level). “I brainstormed on the idea of creating a raised middle area, using a hidden block wall along the fence and a seating wall on the other side, with boulders at both ends,” Christie says (see top photo, this page). With an elevated planting area, any trees, shrubs, and perennials sited there would be higher in the air and offer more screening from the back property line. And the faux berm would break up the flatness of the space. Building this raised bed allowed for more plantable space as well. Christie’s client is an avid gardener who wanted a malleable and changeable garden, not just a static landscape.

GET MORE GROWING SPACE WITH CONTAINERS

As if a narrow city lot didn’t provide enough design challenges, this site was conditionally tough as well. “The site is superduper hot—full southern exposure in the center of the yard and dry,” says Christie. In addition to the conifers and grasses, there’s a selection of drought-tolerant plants, such as an assortment of sedums (Hylotelephium spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) and germander (Teucrium spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9). To provide more space for plants, modern metal planters were installed along the fence lines. These were filled with vegetables, herbs, and even raspberries (photo p. 44, bottom). A similar set of planters is positioned along the edges of the second-story roofdeck. These containers are filled with plants that provide some height for privacy and texture year-round. ‘Sky Pencil’ Japanese holly (Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’, Zones 6–8) and ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–8) are two notable standouts (photo above). The plants both in the gardens and in the planters do the heavy lifting in this garden from spring through winter. The stonework is always present, but without the trees, shrubs, and perennials, this garden wouldn’t be the four-season wonder that it is.

| CHRISTIE’S FAVORITES |

These are a few of the plants that Christie relies on for interest in all 12 months.

‘Mini pineEasternTwists’white (Pinus strobus ‘Mini Twists’) ZONES: 4–8 SIZE: 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, drainedwell-soil NATIVE RANGE: Eastern North America ‘Hameln’ dwarf fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’) ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; welldrained soil NATIVE RANGE: Asia, Australia Ivory Halo® Tatarian dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Bailhalo’) ZONES: 3–7 SIZE: 4 to 5 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, drainedwell-soil NATIVE RANGE: Asia The rooftop is an extension of the garden. platformtogardenconnectofalongContainerstheedgethedeckthebelowtheviewingabove.

FINEGARDENING.COM 45 Great plants forastructureyear-roundinsmallspace

The elevated garden has rich, well-draining soil that’s perfect for a collection of choice conifers, including ‘Gracilis’ Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’, Zones 4–8), an array of ornamental grasses, and even a stand of native New York ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis, Zones 5–9). Texture and leaf-color variation were valued more than flowers when it came to plant choice (photo pp. 40–41, bottom).

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202246

ON THE WEST COAST, THE PROBLEM of space (or lack thereof) doesn’t disappear. In the city of Seattle and its suburbs, small postage-size lots are the norm—and that’s where designer Courtney Olander does much of her work. When she initially drove up to this home, it was clear to her that the front yard needed help. “The primary goal of the homeowners was to give their midcentury home a contemporary feel and to up the curb appeal big time,” Courtney says. The couple wanted to change the current entry experience into something more inviting.

USE MEANDERING PATHS TO MAKE THE JOURNEY SEEM LONGER The existing hardscaping consisted of an uneven flagstone walkway that led from the front door directly to the street. There was no connection from the driveway to the front door, so a pathway there that the family would use on a regular basis was the first thing that needed to be installed. In place of the flagstone path, Courtney and her team poured a series of

WEST COAST GARDEN DESIGN

BEFORE: CIRCA 2017 Go from boring to exciting. The new front yard (top photo) mixes unique hardscaping, textural plantings, and custom containers to achieve small-space perfection.

After all, the trip from the car to the front door doesn’t need to be boring, even when space is limited.

A front yard that makes a good first impression

FINEGARDENING.COM 47 Key elements WHAT: Postage-stamp front yard just outside the city limits SIZE: 2,200 square feet ZONE: 8 CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil CHALLENGES: Determining which plants would stay and which would go; uneven hardscape; curb appeal lacking DESIGNER: Courtney Olander LOCATION: Seattle It looks much bigger than it actually is. A meandering path lengthens the journey through the space and provides an illusion of deeper planting beds along the curves. 1. Front door 2. Zigzag concrete walkway 3. Granite paths 4. Steel container with maple 5. Planter used for drainage 6. Deck 7. Dry streambed 1 6 5 423 7

Crushed granite paths break off on either side of the concrete entry path (photo p. 47, bottom), resembling something you might hike along while in the forests outside Seattle. One path meanders through the preexisting hemlocks (Tsuga mertensiana, Zones 5–7) and the newly planted black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida, Zones 5–9) to the driveway. The other descends down natural granite steps under a canopy of vine maples (Acer circinatum, Zones 6–9). The winding nature of the paths forces users to slow down and thereby gives the impression that the space being traveled through is bigger. “I wanted the front entry to involve a ‘journey’ around the planters and through the hemlocks. Removing the straight shot to the door from the street was key,” says Courtney.

Drainage was an issue in this small garden, so the design had to include ways to capture and divert rain. The area that collects water to the right of the entry during heavy rains was transformed into a focal point by the installation of a second steel planter that captures water from a new rain chain and diverts it through a spout into a dry streambed and rain garden.

PROVIDE INVALUABLE SCREENING WITH PLANTERS

‘Blue Arrows’ rush (Juncus inflexus ‘Blue Arrows’, Zones 5–9), A truly unique railing. The skinny containers along the deck edge add color to the front yard and a subtle bit of screening from the road.

Turn a problem into a perk. This foundation area was frequently flooded, but now the rainwater is diverted into an attractive planter.

right).top09,p.bottom;08,(p.OlanderCourtneyofcourtesy08–09:pp.photosOtherdoreenwynja.com.noted:whereexcept08–11,pp.PhotosSidebarphotosp.11,fromtoptobottom:JoshuaMcCullough;courtesyofMarkDwyer;BrandiSpade.

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202248

concrete pads rimmed with 2-inch river rock. These landing pads were arranged in a zigzag around a 4-foot-tall-and-wide steel planter, which was installed slightly askew from the front door (photo p. 46, top).

It’s hard to miss the large, square planter surrounded by the zigzag concrete walkway. This is more than just an eye-catching feature, however. Once the large ‘Red Emperor’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Red Emperor’, Zones 5–9) was planted in it, the container provided screening for the deck as well as a welcome diversion from the once-direct path to the front door.

Not all focal-point plants need to be big and bold. These are a few of Courtney’s favorite undersized stars. ‘Little hydrangeaoakleafHoney’ ( quercifoliaHydrangea ‘Little Honey’) ZONES: 5–9 SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, drainedwell-soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States ‘Beanpole’ yew (Taxus × media ‘Beanpole’) ZONES: 5–7 SIZE: 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; drainedwell-soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid heuchera‘Obsidian’ (Heuchera ‘Obsidian’) ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 10 inches tall and 16 inches wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; well-drainedmoist,soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid of North American species | COURTNEY’S FAVORITES |

RELY ON BOLD COLORS FOR THE FOCAL POINTS You can’t pull up to this garden without immediately noticing the bright yellow front door. “The homeowners asked me to choose a new front door and exterior paint colors,” says Courtney. “We decided on two shades of gray for the house paint to act as a neutral backdrop, and a vibrant citrus shade of yellow for the front door that acts as the touchstone color for the plant selections throughout the garden.” The only plants that were on site were four mountain hemlocks and two vine maples, which were kept to give the front garden instant maturity. A mature burning bush (Euonymus alatus*, Zones 4–8) and a lot of weeds were removed to make way for an array of yellow and chartreuse plants such as black-eyed Susans, ‘Everillo’ Japanese sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Everillo’, Zones 5–9), and Sundance® Mexican orange blossom (Choisya ternata ‘Lich’, Zones 7–10). These carry the bright citrus color of the door throughout the garden and are truly the beacons of interest in this space. Adding to the interest is an array of ornamental grasses and small evergreens that continue the show into fall and winter. These ensure that there is never a dull moment in this small front yard. Danielle Sherry is the executive editor. Carry the focal color throughout the space. Taking a cue from the front door, yellow-hued plants are the eye-catchers in this garden from foliage to flowers.

Greatsmallplantsfocal-pointforgardens

FINEGARDENING.COM 49 with its rust-tinged seed heads, echoes the color of the steel and flourishes year-round in the planter (photo facing page, bottom). A final set of containers became important when replacing the deck. Here, Courtney placed large rectangular planters across the front instead of a railing, which provided an opportunity for seasonal plantings that would also add some screening (photo facing page, top).

*See invasive alert on page 81.

Photo: FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202250 Get to know This easy-care, drought-tolerant, late-blooming shrub may be just what your garden is missing BY RICHARD HAWKE ‘SAMIDARE’ THUNBERG BUSH CLOVER

Photo: FINEGARDENING.COM 51

• PROPAGATION: division,andSemi-hardwoodrootcuttings,andseed

• ZONES: 4–8

At a glance Lespedeza spp. and cvs.

The two bush clover species most cultivated in gardens, shrub bush clover (Lespedeza bicolor and cvs.) and Thunberg bush clover (L. thunbergii and cvs.), are semi-woody plants that are treated like perennials—although their robust shrubby habits would never lead most gardeners to register them as such. In northern locales, the stems die back in winter but resprout to rapidly reach their full height in summer. Whether you view bush clover as a perennial or a shrub, remember that most need a good amount of space to do their thing; for instance, the popular cultivar ‘Gibraltar’ (L. thunbergii ‘Gibraltar’) grows 10 to 12 feet wide! But don’t fret if you garden

• NATIVE RANGE: Asia, NorthAustralia,America

y the time August rolls around, I’m looking for something new in the garden to pique my interest. I’m not quite ready for fall plants to take their turn, so I appreciate that shrubby bush clovers (Lespedeza spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8) bridge the seasons, providing me with the jolt I need. My first real encounter with bush clover was years ago on a late-season visit to Olbrich Botanical Gardens in Madison, Wisconsin. There it was when I rounded a turn, draped in vibrant magenta flowers and tumbling into the path as if to say, “See what I can do.” I had clearly missed it on the same stroll in June when it was hiding in plain sight—a finetextured, ample green bush—giving no hint of what was to come.

• PESTS DISEASES:ANDNo serious problems

• CONDITIONS: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202252 Best-in-show bush clovers

‘GIBRALTAR’ THUNBERG BUSH CLOVER

‘Samidare’ (L. thunbergii ‘Samidare’) and ‘Gibraltar’ were in a neck-to-neck race for best bush clover until ‘Samidare’ (photo p. 50) surged into the lead in the final years. While its lovely fuchsia-purple flowers are as plentiful as those of ‘Gibraltar’, each flower is slightly longer, a tad wider, and a bit darker. ‘Samidare’ received more evaluator remarks commending the superiority of its flower show and the uniformity of its habit, which was as bushy and robust as ‘Gibraltar’ but smaller overall. Before turning green, this selection’s young silvery leaves are a pleasing counterpoint to the dark bronze stems. Bowed stems on rainy days were less pronounced on ‘Samidare’, although it was just as prone to having its flowers stripped off by strong winds and intense rainfall. The winter skeletons of bush clovers are like living sculptures and are especially lovely overlaid with snow or encased in glistening ice.

TOP-RATED BUSH CLOVERS WITH GREAT COLOR AND FORM

HOW LONG: Minimum four years ZONE: 5b CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained, alkaline, clay-loam soil CARE: We provided minimal care, allowing the plants to thrive or fail under natural conditions.

in square feet and notacres, because there are also smaller options that are sure to please.

In late summer, small pealike flowers in an assortment of pinks clothe the bush clover cohort for about a month. Flowers are held in short pendent clusters in the leaf axils of the uppermost stems and collectively form prodigious floral sprays to at least 2 feet long. The weight of the copious flowers bows the stems, exaggerating the fountain-like habits. Heavy rainfall during peak bloom may overload the stems, causing them to bend close to the ground. Habits bounce back after the blooms and leaves dry out, but sometimes the stems may remain relaxed until the flowers have dropped.

TRIAL PARAMETERS Since 2013, the Chicago Botanic Garden has evaluated 16 different bush clovers in comparative trials. Besides observing their ornamental traits, we monitored the plants to see how well they grew and adapted to environmental and soil conditions, while keeping a close eye on any disease or pest problems and assessing plant injuries or losses over winter.

Now that my eyes have been opened to the fabulousness of bush clovers, it saddens me that they are so uncommon in local landscapes. Battling against my desire to see bush clovers more often is the fact that they can be pests in parts of the country and should be avoided or used with caution. For me, it’s a treat whenever and wherever I find one in bloom. With an appreciative nod and silent kudos to the gardener, I file the location away for a revisit the next year.

‘Gibraltar’ (L. thunbergii ‘Gibraltar’) is probably the most popular and best-known bush clover; it was the only shrubby one I knew until our trial. Bright, rosy pink flowers blanket its long arching stems for a solid month or more from late summer into fall. The flower show is spectacular by any standards and slightly exotic compared to that of other plants blooming at the time. The soft, fuzzy new leaves have a silvery sheen for a time before turning blue-green and are of a finer texture

The trifoliate leaves are classically pealike too, with the three oval leaflets creating a finer texture than would a comparably sized simple leaf. The terminal leaves have a spidery look before they fully unfold, allowing the silvery undersides to stand out at this stage. Mature foliage ranges from green to bluish green, with new leaves often being silvery or yellowish; I’ve heard stories about fall color but have not seen it here in the Midwest.

FINEGARDENING.COM 53

My evaluators were never as effusive about the floral display of ‘White Fountain’ (L. thunbergii ‘White Fountain’) as they were about other cultivars, but I found the pure white flowers to be a pleasant change from the rosy tones. Sprays of crisp white flowers grace long arching stems earlier than most bush clovers—beginning in early August for us and lasting to October. The pale, yellowish green foliage looks like that of ‘Gempei’, just not as yellow. ‘White Fountain’ has a distinctly fountain-like habit with weeping tips during the bloom season. Stems are more upright until flowers weigh them down, but unlike with some of the other big ones, we never recorded that a significant rain event magnified the effect. From a single arching stem in 2013, ‘White Fountain’ grew into a robust bush within the first year.

Best-in-show bush clovers

THUNBERG BUSH CLOVER ‘PINK CASCADE’ THUNBERG BUSH CLOVER

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‘GEMPEI’

‘Pink Cascade’ (L. thunbergii ‘Pink Cascade’) has slightly darker flowers than ‘Pink Fountain’ (L. thunbergii ‘Pink Fountain’), yet both are clearer pink than other cultivars. At peak in early autumn, the medium pink flowers of ‘Pink Cascade’ both contrast with and complement the rosier, purple-flowered cultivars in the trial beds. The combination of chartreuse terminals atop mature blue-green leaves adds a smidgen of interest before flowers take over the show. The terms cascade and fountain may conjure up a similar image, but the arching stems of ‘Pink Cascade’ are less pronounced than on ‘Pink Fountain’. Its bushy habit remains tightly rounded throughout, although arching stems closer to the base were occasionally observed. ‘Pink Cascade’ is a natural paired with fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides and cvs., Zones 5–9), but I recommend one of the safer sterile selections, such as chocolate-plumed ‘Cayenne’ or the smaller and pinker ‘Hush Puppy’.

millettephotomedia.com.left:bottompage,facingPhotoGarden.BotanicChicagoofcourtesynoted:whereexceptPhotos,than the foliage of ‘Gempei’. Its habit is most comparable to ‘Samidare’, albeit larger. Ironically, although ‘Gibraltar’ was selected for its shorter stature, its bushy uniform habit was the largest of all. I wish there wasn’t a downside to this cultivar, but rainwater collects among the thousands of flowers and leaves, pulling stems downward more than usual. Still, recovery is good if rain doesn’t persist for multiple days. Growing ‘Gibraltar’ on a hillside or above a wall accentuates the cascading effect of its pendulous branches. There are bush clovers with charming bicolored flowers, but ‘Gempei’ (L. thunbergii ‘Gempei’) is unique in having separate clusters of rosy pink flowers and white flowers intermingled on the same plant. The ratio of pink to white is variable by plant— one of our four plants had many more white flowers than the others. Interestingly, a mashup of the two colors periodically showed up as white flowers splashed with pink (pictured). The large flowers are nearly an inch long and half an inch wide, and they bloom for about a month starting in early autumn. The yellow-green terminal leaves fade to chartreuse in late summer, while the lower leaves are dark green throughout. ‘Gempei’ has a bushy mounded habit with more upright green stems than other cultivars. Having one of the nicest forms in the group along with a strong floral show garnered ‘Gempei’ a high rating irrespective of the unpredictability of the flower colors.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

Not to be overlooked

‘WHITE FOUNTAIN’ THUNBERG BUSH CLOVER

Photo: FINEGARDENING.COM 55

These two beauties didn’t make it to the top of the list, but that doesn’t mean they’re not gardenworthy. Check out their fantastic variation on color. Sometimes a plant falls short of getting top marks but still deserves attention. Such is the case of bicolored ‘Edoshibori’ (L. thunbergii ‘Edo-shibori’). Fuchsiaand-white flowers generously blanket its arched stems from late summer to midautumn. The two colors call attention to the distinctive structure of legume blossoms. The white standard or banner—the largest of the five petals—is brushed with deep fuchsia striations. The two wing petals match the vibrancy of the markings and nuzzle the white keel petals. Though large, the bushy, vase-shaped habit is not the biggest of the bunch. Spring leaves have a bronze cast that holds into early summer on the yellow-green terminals; the lower foliage is dark green. The vagaries of our winters proved problematic for ‘Edoshibori’, which struggled more than most Thunberg bush clovers, with crown loss over multiple winters. On the positive side, the plants rebounded vigorously to become attractive and floriferous every summer.

PLANTING ALERT Best to avoid bush clovers in the Southeast Brought to the United States as ornamentals in the mid-1800s, bush clovers became widely used for erosion control and wildlife conservation in the early 1900s. In their ideal growing conditions, these shrubs are prolific seeders and ramblers. Unfortunately today, bush clovers have become problematic in some areas, primarily in the southeastern United States. L. thunbergii is listed as invasive in Georgia and Kentucky, while L. bicolor is listed as invasive in those states plus Alabama, Indiana, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, and West Virginia. Invasive plant lists regularly change, however. Please check the invasive plant lists for your area before planting bush clover.

Most of our trials feature a mix of old and new cultivars, and occasionally one that hasn’t been released, but sometimes new introductions are hard to find or simply don’t exist. All the bush clovers were new to me but not necessarily uncommon. ’Candy Girl’ (L. bicolor ‘Candy Girl’) is so new that most gardeners won’t know it yet, and it is the only bush clover that has not completed the full four years of our trial. The sweet two-toned flowers are reminiscent of ‘Edo-shibori’; a burst of raspberry-pink on the white standards is echoed in the intensely colored wing petals that cradle the purple-blushed keel. As a youngster, ‘Candy Girl’ has a tight bushy habit with upright flowering stems. As it matures, the habit fills out but remains bushy, with arching to pendulous stems loaded with chubby flower clusters in autumn. After a few years in our trial, it is now nearly at its expected 4-foot height. A bronze cast on the light green terminal leaves creates a golden to coppery glow in autumn; this is the only cultivar where we saw this color change. ‘Candy Girl’ is so new that for now you may have to add it to your wish list rather than your shopping cart.

How culture and care impact performance

right)andleft(bottomDaigleJessicapage:thisIllustrations

• POTENTIAL PROBLEMS. Winter losses of shrub-bush-clover cultivars were more common in our trial than expected given that they are root hardy in Zones 4 or 5. Less-than-ideal growing conditions—moist to soggy soil at times in summer and winter— rather than cold temperatures were the likely culprit. In the later years of the trial, shorter or weaker cultivars struggled in the shadow of bigger neighbors; ‘Yakushima’ (L. bicolor ‘Yakushima’) was usually found nestled under the voluminous skirts of ‘Samidare’ by midsummer.

• EASY CARE. Bush clovers may self-sow in the garden under ideal growing conditions and can also spread when prostrate stems root down at the nodes. Both shrub bush clover and Thunberg bush clover have naturalized in warmer parts of the United States, but shrub bush clover more widely so. Flowers bloom on new growth, so pruning stems to the ground in late winter or early spring will not affect flower production (see illustrations below). New shoots emerge slowly but come on quickly once up.

BASICS |

[ EARLY SPRING PRUNING ] [ SUMMER HABIT WITH BLOOMS ] CUTS To tame or rejuvenate bush clover shrubs, prune them back hard in early spring. This will not impact their flowering, because flowers form on new growth (which fills out quickly).

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• BEST LOCATION. With bush clovers, full sun is best for heavy flower production and to maintain full-bodied habits. These plants are easy to grow in average to dry soil; good drainage is essential. As with other legumes, their root nodules contain a beneficial bacterium (Rhizobium) that converts atmospheric nitrogen into usable nitrogen. While this trait allows bush clovers to flourish in infertile soil—its decomposing leaves provide nitrogen for neighbors too—rich soil or extra nitrogen applied through fertilization can promote overly lush growth and reduce flowers. Foliar chlorosis may also be an issue in alkaline soil.

FINEGARDENING.COM 57 Richard Hawke is an expert plantsman and the director of ornamental plant research at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois. POTENTIAL SOURCES • Broken Arrow Nursery, Hamden, CT; 203-288-1026; brokenarrownursery.com • Nature Hills Nursery, Omaha, NE; 402-934-8116; naturehills.com • Plant Delights, Raleigh, NC; 919-772-4794; plantdelights.com • Quackin’ Grass Nursery, Brooklyn, CT; 860-779-1732; quackingrassnursery.com RATINGNAMEFLOWER COLORFLOWERLENGTHBLOOM PERIODHEIGHTWIDTH ★★★ L. bicolor rosypurple 1⁄ 2 in.earlySept.tomid-Oct.75in.112in. + L. bicolor ‘CandyGirl’whiteandraspberrypink 1⁄8 in.earlySept.tofrost42in.48in. ★ L. bicolor ‘LittleBuddy’ rosypurple 1⁄8 in.earlySept.tomid-Oct.34in.50in. ★ L. bicolor ‘Yakushima’deeprosypink 1⁄8 in.lateJulytoearlyOct.18in.36in. ★ L. liukiuensis ‘LittleVolcano’ purple-pink 1⁄8 in.mid-Sept.tomid-Oct.30in.40in. ★ L. thunbergii ‘Alba’white 1⁄8 in.mid-Aug.toearlyOct.28in.18in. ★★★ L. thunbergii ‘Edo-shibori’fuchsiaandwhite 1⁄ 2 in.mid-Aug.toearlyOct.54in.90in. ★★★★ L. thunbergii ‘Gempei’rosypinkandwhite 1⁄8 in.mid-Sept.tomid-Oct.60in.80in. ★★★★ L. thunbergii ‘Gibraltar’brightrosypink 1⁄8 in.lateAug.toearlyOct.75in.116in. ★★★★ L. thunbergii ‘PinkCascade’mediumpink 3⁄4 in.earlySept.tomid-Oct.50in.56in. ★★★ L. thunbergii ‘PinkFountain’pink 1⁄8 in.earlySept.tomid-Oct.62in.95in. ★★★★ L. thunbergii ‘Samidare’fuchsia-purple 3⁄4 in.lateAug.toearlyOct.58in.98in. ★ L. thunbergii ‘SpiltMilk’deeppurple-pink 1⁄8 in.earlyOct.tofrost36in.32in. ★★★ L. thunbergii ‘SpringGrove’magenta-pink 1⁄8 in.earlySept.tomid-Oct.64in.96in. ★★ L. thunbergii ‘SummerBeauty’ magenta-pink 1⁄8 in.earlyAug.toearlyOct.30in.66in. ★★★★ L. thunbergii ‘WhiteFountain’white 3⁄4 in.earlyAug.toearlyOct.57in.87in. RATINGS ExcellentGoodFairPoor + (newNotyetratedtotrial) BUSH-CLOVER TRIAL RESULTS ’CANDY GIRL’ SHRUB BUSH CLOVER

| GOOD

THE BACKGROUND ON SHEET MULCHING AND WHY GARDENERS DO IT

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• Helps to build the soil as it decomposes • Helps to maintain a consistent amount of moisture at the roots CONS

• Very effective at smothering and blocking weeds

• Depending on exact layer makeup and intended purpose, it may break down faster or slower than you prefer

• Can limit water infiltration

PROS

The term sheet mulching means different things to different people. To some, it’s “lasagna gardening” with many layers of organic materials; to others, it’s an attempt to recreate the type of natural layering that occurs in forests or meadows; to still others, it’s laying down a couple of sheets of newspaper and some wood chips. The common thread running through all of these techniques is that a sheet of some material, such as newspaper or cardboard, is placed over an area of ground and then covered with organicGardenersmulch.do this for two basic reasons—to wipe out weeds and to build rich, organic soil that will deliver nutrients and retain moisture for garden plants. To achieve this, gardeners employ two different types of sheet mulching: shallow and deep. The difference between the two types is simple. Shallow sheet mulching involves a single, shallow layer of brown mulch (e.g., fallen leaves or wood chips), while deep sheet mulching consists of alternating layers of Take a deeper look at this controversial method for smothering turf and building healthy soil IS SHEET MULCHING? TO KNOW | THE THEOUTWEIGHPOSITIVESNEGATIVES When you’re considering the sheet mulch method, look at the good and bad aspects to determine if it’s right for you.

WHAT

f you’ve ever started a new garden from scratch, then you’ve probably had to convert some amount of lawn into a planting bed. There are several ways to eliminate turf, including back-breaking digging and the spraying of herbicides, but the method I receive the most questions about is smothering, or sheet mulching. Without a doubt, there are many benefits to mulching in general. Organic mulches such as pine bark, wood chips, pine straw, or leaves slow down water loss, suppress weeds, and even improve soil by adding organic matter as the mulch decomposes. In other words, adding an organic mulch doesn’t come with a whole lot of controversy—it’s good. The practice of sheet mulching, however, isn’t as cut-and-dried.

In an article published in the journal Soil and Tillage Research, Khurram Shahzad and collaborators examined the gas exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide through various mulches, including a sheet-mulching system uti-

FINEGARDENING.COM 59

Sheet mulching is easy to do, but it requires patience. Depending on the method you choose, it can take several months to a year or more before your area is ready for planting.

Shallow sheet mulching can also be very effective for smothering existing vegetation and preventing new weeds from establishing, as well as for contributing to the building of healthy soil over time. The paper material used is typically newspaper (up to eight layers thick) or untreated cardboard. Because a blanket of this decomposable material blocks sunlight and forms a physical barrier, it is more effective than organic mulch alone at smothering existing weeds and suppressing the growth of new weeds. After the paper material is placed over the area, about 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, is placed over the top. If you are trying to knock out a patch of lawn to prepare for a new bed or to clear some grass in an area so that your trees and shrubs don’t have to compete with any other greenery, then this technique is about as good as it gets. You can think of it as mulch on steroids. It does all of the things that regular mulch does, but even moreDeepeffectively.sheetmulching also suppresses weeds and relies on natural composting processes to change multiple layers of organic material into soil where new plants will grow. When enough time for composting is given, this process is great for enriching the soil.

WHAT ARE THE DOWNSIDES TO SHEET MULCHING?

GO DEEP TO BUILD AND ENRICH SOIL, AND SHALLOW TO SMOTHER TURF AND WEEDS

brown mulch and green mulch (e.g., freshly clipped grass) that can reach a total final depth of 2 or even 3 feet.

Deep sheet mulching (or “lasagna gardening”) is usually done with the intention of having multiple layers of green and brown organic mulch and a paper material layer decompose over the course of a few months to a year (or more) to form garden beds for annuals and/or vegetables.

Shallow sheet mulching, with just a paper material layer and a few inches of brown organic mulch on top, is usually done around vegetables or landscape plants.

There are some potential drawbacks to consider prior to using sheet mulches. The fact that sheet mulching covers an area so completely makes it effective, but it also gives it the potential to have some negative effects on the soil. There is a danger that water and oxygen might have trouble passing through the mulched layer to infiltrate the soil. That, of course, would make it a less-than-desirable practice to consider using around your plants.

GREENCARDBOARDORNEWSPAPERUNTREATEDMULCH, such as mulch)deepifclippingsgrass(onlyyouplantosheet MULCH,BROWN such barkshreddedas MATERIALS NEEDED

The nuts and bolts of sheet mulching

Sheet mulching can be done any time of the year, but keep in mind that if you are deep sheet mulching, the layers of mulch take a considerable amount of time to decompose and for the area then to be ready for planting—so you need to plan accordingly. Fall is a fitting time to lay down your layers to allow the decomposing process to begin and slowly progress through the winter months. Shallow sheet mulching takes less time, and spring is a good time to begin (before the lawn and weeds really get growing). No matter when sheet mulching is done, here are the basic steps we follow at the UNC Charlotte Botanical Gardens.

lizing cardboard with wood chips. In this study, soil oxygen levels never reached a point where soil microorganisms would be negatively impacted. The authors concluded that mulches reduce the amount of carbon dioxide and oxygen that diffuse across the soil-atmosphere interface, but not enough to cause significant changes in the concentration of those gases when compared to bare soil. In other words, mulches, and even sheet mulches, probably won’t affect the amount of carbon dioxide or oxygen in the soil underneath them enough to damage soil microorganisms or plant roots. That’s good news! But what about water? Sheet mulches are less permeable than regular mulches or soil, so it stands to reason that a good rain will not saturate soil under a sheet mulch as well as it will the soil outside of a sheet mulch. We have a lot of experience with that here at the University of North Carolina Charlotte Botanical Gardens. We sheet mulch around trees in | STEP-BY-STEP |

STEP 2 Chop down the greenery Cut the grass or existing vegetation down to the ground, leaving the clippings or debris in place.

page,thisPhotoFagan.Stephanienoted:whereexceptPhotos,bottom:JenniferBenner.Illustrations:JessicaDaigle.

STEP 1 Soak the site The day before you put down your layers, deeply water the area you’re going to sheet mulch (if it is not already wet from rain).

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202260

Although the items needed to sheet mulch are simple, remember that this application is temporary. Newspaper or cardboard and an organic mulch are going to break down and enrich the soil with organic matter. As the layers decompose, permeability will increase until, eventually, they become part of the soil. This breakdown can take a few months to a couple of years; when that happens, the best approach is simply to place more mulching material over the previous material

STEP 6 Keep the area moist During dry periods, give the area a thorough watering weekly while the sheet mulch is decomposing.

FINEGARDENING.COM 61 certain areas of the gardens, and when we test the soil under this mulch after a rain, the area under the mulch is drier than the surrounding unmulched area. After a few days without rain, however, the amount of water under the unmulched area quickly declines, while soil under the region where sheet mulch was placed stays consistent. In other words, mulching helps maintain a certain moisture level without many peaks andGenerallyvalleys. speaking, sheet mulching has positive effects on the survival and health of plants. From Douglas fir to cabbage, sheet mulching has proven itself to be a useful tool for both commercial farmers and gardeners. Yes, you need to be mindful of its drawbacks, but at the end of the day it is worth the effort.

6.5.4.3.2.1.

STEP 3 Put down a paper layer Cover the area with newspaper (one to three sheets thick) or a single layer of untreated cardboard, overlapping the edges of the material. Some gardeners go up to eight sheets thick with their newspaper to prolong coverage and vegetation suppression, especially when smothering turf.

Jeff Gillman, Ph.D., author of The Truth About Organic Gardening, is the director of the University of North Carolina Charlotte Botanical Gardens.

6. Soil STEP 4 Cover with mulch Top the paper layer with 2 to 4 inches of an organic brown mulch. This mulch can take many forms, but we often use dried leaves, shredded bark, or wood chips. Some gardeners like to wet the paper material before putting down the brown mulch, but we have equal success when we skip this watering.

STEP 5 Add more layers if you’re going deep If you’re deep sheet mulching, add additional 2- to 4-inch-deep alternating layers of green mulch (such as grass clippings) and brown mulch.

1. Brown mulch 2. Green mulch 3. Brown mulch 4. Newspaper/cardboard 5. Vegetation (with left-behind clippings)

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202262 Designing VIGNETTESTHATLAST Mix bold, textural plants with landscapeperennialsshowyforathatlooksgoodlonger BY CAROL COLLINS Exuberant blooms and colorful foliage frolic together until frost. Plants with burgundy, silver, and deep green leaves provide striking contrast for the bright masses of flowers.

FINEGARDENING.COM 63

VIGNETTE 1 | SUMMER A naturalistic design serves a practical purpose As a transitional space between more formal areas and the hayfield beyond, this section of the garden, which Bill has dubbed the New Meadow, always has something interesting going on. Choice grasses mingle with pollinator-friendly perennials, creating a charming textural tapestry in midsummer, when the finerleaved plants start to fill in. dropseed 3–8) sea 4–9) 4–8) 4–9) New Meadow is filled with an mix

holly (Eryngium planum ‘Blue Glitter’, Zones

1. Prairie

2. ‘Blue Glitter’

3. ‘Hummelo’ betony (Stachys monieri ’Hummelo’, Zones 4–8) 4. ‘Red Thunder’ great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis ’Red Thunder’, Zones

5. Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii, Zones

experimental

of ornamental grasses and chosenperennialsfortheircompatibility. 1 4 2 3 6 5 3

(Sporobolus heterolepis, Zones

Having visited and photographed the garden at the height of summer and in early fall, Fine Gardening editors can attest that these goals not only have been met but have been exceeded.

6. ’Goldtau’ tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’, Zones 3–8) The

In his book Spirit of Place: The Making of a New England Garden, Bill describes the founding principles that have guided their process. The garden should feel “relaxed and exuberant,” he writes. “It should evolve and not stand still. It should be informed, enchanting and never complete. It should be interesting in all seasons.”

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202264 O n a north-facing hillside in Norwich, Vermont, mostly hidden behind a historic farmhouse and barn lies a gorgeous and sophisticated landscape. It is the home garden of designer Bill Noble and his husband, Jim Tatum, built and tended over the past three decades with the assistance of horticulturist Susan Howard.

Careful plant selection and placement guarantee that from month to month, and even from day to day, there will always be something new to see. The following is an exploration of the planting strategies that make this garden fascinating in every season.

FINEGARDENING.COM 65 Aitken.Stevepage:facingPhotoCollins.Carolnoted:whereexceptPhotos, VIGNETTE 1 | FALL Autumn amps up the color The ginkgo that Bill grew from a sapling casts a golden glow over the meadow planting in fall, setting off the intense jewel tones of sneezeweed, aster, and burnet blooms that sparkle amid the grasses. This is also the showiest season for shade-loving ‘Autumn Bride’ heuchera, which filled space under the tree with its softly textured foliage all summer. 1. Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba, Zones 3–8) 2. ‘Loysder Wieck’ sneezeweed (Helenium ‘Loysder Wieck’, Zones 3–8) 3. ‘Autumn Bride’ heuchera (Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’, Zones 3–8) 4. ‘Red Thunder’ great burnet 5. ‘October Skies’ aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium ‘October Skies’, Zones 4–8) 1 4 2 3 5

6. Black Beauty® elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Gerda’, Zones 4–7)

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202266 Repeated colors and shapes keep the design cohesive The Flower Garden (also shown on pp. 62–63 and 70) is arguably the centerpiece of this landscape. It is designed to be viewed both from the home’s back deck and from the paths that divide the rectangular space into quadrants.

1. Hollyhock (Alcea rosea cv., Zones 3–10)

Long-blooming plants such as queen of the prairie, panicle hydrangea, garden phlox, and bee balm are repeated through all four quadrants, knitting the design together.

2. ’Purple Rooster’ bee balm (Monarda didyma ‘Purple Rooster’, Zones 4–9)

5. ’F. J. Grootendorst’ shrub rose (Rosa ‘F. J. Grootendorst’, Zones 5–9)

3. ’Venusta’ queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’, Zones 3–8)

4. Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum, Zones 3–8)

7. ’Silver Column’ white willow (Salix alba var. sericea ‘Silver Column’, Zones 3–8) Tall, seedFlowerperennialslong-bloomingarethreadedthroughouttheGarden,somewithheadsthatlookasgoodastheirflowers.

VIGNETTE 2 | MIDSUMMER

1 4 2 3 7 6 5

FINEGARDENING.COM 67 NobleBill66–69:pp.Photos New tints, tones, and textures emerge with each passing week Taken in mid-August, about a month later than the image on the facing page, this photo reveals the moment when the warm amber seed heads of queen of the prairie and feather reed grass begin to hint at the late-season color progression still to come. An assortment of garden phlox cultivars provides a reliable supply of bright violet and pink from early summer through fall. 1. ’Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora, ‘Karl Foerster’ Zones 5–11) 2. Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata cv., Zones 3–8) 3. New York ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis, Zones 5–9) 4. Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata cv., Zones 4–8) 5. ‘Spark’s Variety’ monkshood (Aconitum henryi ‘Spark’s Variety’, Zones 3–7) VIGNETTE 2 | LATE SUMMER 1 4 2 3 5

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202268 Longtime companions anchor a moist, shady bed This lovely and durable group of plants was moved 30 years ago from Bill’s previous garden. In spring, the vigorous emergence of new growth highlights the interplay between the plants’ varied textures, and the bronze-tinted leaf color of the rodgersia is particularly eye-catching. 1. ‘Elegans’ hosta (Hosta sieboldiana ’Elegans’, Zones 3–9) 2. European ginger (Asarum europaeum, Zones 4–7) 3. Eastern bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana, Zones 3–9) 4. August lily hosta (Hosta plantaginea, Zones 3–9) 5. Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina, Zones 4–8) 6. ’Bronze Form’ rodgersia (Rodgersia podophylla ‘Bronze Form’, Zones 4–9) VIGNETTE 3 | LATE SPRING 4 2 3 6 5 1

FINEGARDENING.COM 69 Pale blooms create a fresh new look Just a few weeks later, the flowers of the Eastern bluestar and the rodgersia burst open and steal the show. Although the bronze foliage of the rodgersia has shifted to green, the bold leaves still add exceptional texture to the vignette. Another highlight for this combo comes in late summer, when August lily hosta’s showy white flowers fill the garden with their incredible fragrance. 1. ‘Elegans’ hosta 2. European ginger 3. Eastern bluestar 4. August lily hosta 5. Lady fern 6. ’Bronze Form’ rodgersia The northern side of the Barn Garden is filled with seasonalcomplementarybold,foliagetexturespunctuatedbyblooms. 1 4 2 3 6 5 VIGNETTE 3 | SUMMER

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202270 VIGNETTE 4 | SUMMER Destinations draw you through the garden Following the paths that intersect at the center of the Flower Garden offers a full-immersion experience of focal points that would be missed if viewed from above. For example, the bloomcovered arch over the western entrance is completely irresistible in early summer.

5. Rosemary willow

7. ‘Caesar’s Brother’ Siberian iris 4 2 3 5 1 4 2 3 6 5 7 1 6

3. Autumn Joy sedum (Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’, Zones 3–9)

2. Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata cv., Zones 4–8)

6. ’Silver Column’ white willow

1. ‘Caesar’s Brother’ Siberian iris (Iris sibirica ‘Caesar’s Brother’, Zones 3–8) 2. Emerald Green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’, Zones 2–7)

1. ‘Glutball’ Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium maculatum ‘Glutball’, Zones 3–8)

3. ‘William Baffin’ rose (Rosa ‘William Baffin’, Zones 3–9) 4. Grape honeysuckle (Lonicera prolifera, Zones 4–8)

5. ’Silver Column’ white willow

4. Pinky Winky® panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘DVP PINKY’, Zones 3–8)

6. Rosemary willow (Salix elaeagnos subsp. angustifolia, Zones 4–8) VIGNETTE 4 | FALL Textural and colorful plants swap roles Siberian irises have a grassy presence in the autumn beds, when plants like Joe Pye weed top their big, bold towers of foliage with frothy blooms. Pinky Winky® panicle hydrangea and Autumn Joy sedum add additional flushes of warm color.

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PLANTS | Bring multiseason interest to your own garden beds

Black Beauty® elderberry Sambucus nigra ‘Gerda’ ZONES: 4–7 SIZE: 10 to 15 feet tall and 4 to 8 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; medium to wet, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Europe, southwestern Asia, North Africa This useful shrub shrouds itself in blackish purple foliage that is studded with pretty pink umbels in early summer.

Eastern bluestar Amsonia tabernaemontana ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States From the time its first stems emerge in spring until its willowy leaves turn yellow in fall, this beloved native plant is sensational. ’Bronze Form’ rodgersia Rodgersia podophylla ‘Bronze Form’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 3 to 6 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, humus-rich soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan, Korea The perfect plant to bring bold texture to a moist, shady spot, this foliage powerhouse takes on a warm bronze tint in spring and fall.

Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 50 to 80 feet tall and 30 to 40 feet wide

August lily hosta Hosta plantaginea ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 12 to 18 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide

If your planting lacks flair in certain seasons, try taking some inspiration from our list of favorites from this exceptional New England garden.

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CONDITIONS: Full sun; average to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeast Asia The look of this living fossil never gets old, especially when its unique, fan-shaped leaves take on their showstopping autumn hue. ’Silver Column’ white willow Salix alba var. sericea ‘Silver Column’ ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 30 to 40 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to wet soil NATIVE RANGE: Europe, North Africa, Central Asia Silver is a refreshing addition to almost any color combination, and with its upswept form, ‘Silver Column’ is especially dramatic.

CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist soil NATIVE RANGE: Southern Canada, northern United States

This German selection of our native species has especially large, rounded flower heads and sturdy, dark red stems. Carol Collins is the associate editor. Special thanks to Bill Noble and Susan Howard for their extensive contributions to this article.

’Goldtau’ tufted hair grass Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’ ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Temperate zones of North America, Europe, and OneAsiaofthe few ornamental grasses that can take some shade, ‘Goldtau’ looks especially striking when its mature seed heads are backlit in fall.

CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moderately moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: China Excellent foliage would be reason enough to grow this hosta, but its fragrant, white, late-summer blooms seal the deal. ‘Glutball’ Joe Pye weed Eutrochium maculatum ‘Glutball’ ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 6 to 7 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide

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NORTHWEST

This beautiful fern is unusual for its winter green growth habit. In summer, its fronds shrivel and drop off. When the autumn rains arrive, its vibrant new green growth emerges just when many other plants are heading for dormancy. In its native habitat, licorice fern can be found growing in moss on tree trunks and branches, with fronds cascading down from high perches. Fortunately, it also adapts easily to garden culture. Try it in a hanging basket for an unusual feature late in the year. It prefers morning sun or open shade and is drought tolerant once established.

HARDY GUERNSEY LILY Nerine bowdenii ZONES: 8–11 SIZE: 24 to 30 inches tall and 6 to 8 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: South Africa

I know it is autumn when the sinewy flowering stems of hardy Guernsey lily make their surprising emergence from the bare soil, seeming to pop up from nowhere. The slight bulge at the tip of each thin stem is the only hint of the blazing pink flowers hidden inside the buds. Once open, each bloom reveals thin, strappy petals that twist and curl backward, creating an elegant and frilly display. The best thing about this bulb is that even a new planting with just a few flower stems delivers bright color that is difficult to miss. Guernsey lily is drought tolerant once established. Contributing editor Richie Steffen is executive director of the Elisabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden in Seattle.

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REGIONAL EXPERT SHOWY CHINESE GENTIAN Gentiana sino-ornata ZONES: 4–8 SIZE: 3 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; moist, rich, well-drained soil

LICORICE FERN Polypodium glycyrrhiza ZONES: 6–9 SIZE: 8 to 15 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Western North America

‘ALBOPLENUM’ FALL CROCUS Colchicum autumnale ‘Alboplenum’ ZONES: 4–8 SIZE: 6 to 12 inches tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Europe I love a surprise, and ‘Alboplenum’ fall crocus provides one. Its stubby sprouts emerge quickly in early autumn, bursting open to reveal brilliant double flowers with thin white petals and a slightly shredded, exotic appearance. The large flowers are unimpeded by foliage, making them conspicuous in the autumn garden. Keep an eye out in late winter to early spring for its strappy, peagreen leaves, which provide interesting textural contrast for spring bloomers. This drought-tolerant bulb grows best in an open location.

NATIVE RANGE: China, Tibet Few plants are as enchanting as gentians, and this fall bloomer is one of the most spectacular species. It is a bit of a garden diva, but if you can meet its demanding cultural needs the rewards are well worth the effort. Give it a spot with morning light or open shade, water it regularly during dry weather, and protect it from hot sun. Its fine foliage will grow tight to the ground through summer, allowing for full view of the delicate flowers in September and October. Tight, pointed buds open into upright trumpets that are blue, white, or bicolor with glowing green markings.

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CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil

CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Western Balkan peninsula in Europe

CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: China, Korea

‘NEON’ SEDUM

NATIVE RANGE: West Texas, northeastern Mexico With so many autumn sages available, it can be hard to choose just one, but ‘Wild Thing’ rises to the top for its flower power and hardiness. Jewel-like blossoms in shades of red-violet sparkle on a symmetrical, shrubby form and lure in hummingbirds. Flowers begin blooming around June and reach a crescendo in fall. This tough plant is perfectly at home in gritty soil among boulders and on dry sunny slopes; it’s a must for any xeric garden. Good drainage and full sun will keep it thriving for years. Cut it down to 4 to 6 inches high in spring to maintain a nice habit. To ensure its success in colder areas, place it in a sheltered microclimate.

SOUTHWEST | UNUSUAL FALL PERENNIALS FOR YOUR REGION |

‘WILD THING’ AUTUMN SAGE Salvia greggii ‘Wild Thing’ ZONES: 5b–11 SIZE: 1½ to 3 feet tall and 1½ to 2 feet wide

REGIONAL EXPERT PRAIRIE ZINNIA Zinnia grandiflora ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 4 to 8 inches tall and 15 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil

Hylotelephium spectabile ‘Neon’ ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 2 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide

Most sedums are tough as nails, a trait belied by their frothy, candy-like flower colors. ‘Neon’ is one of the most colorful sedums available, and its name does not disappoint. Buds sit atop a compact mound of succulent foliage and burst into bloom in summer, and the flowers last well into fall. Bees and butterflies flock to the hot pink blooms, which slowly age to burgundy and then tan as autumn progresses. The foliage turns from light green to a bright chartreuse in fall, which contrasts sharply with the flowers. The blooms dry in place for winter, standing tall and providing many months of interest until spring.

NATIVE RANGE: Southern Plains and southwestern United States; northern Mexico Big things come in small packages. Prairie zinnia’s long-lasting golden flowers are just over an inch wide and have gently reflexed petals. They densely blanket the foliage from high summer into fall. The blooms are very attractive to butterflies and native bees. As fall progresses, the flowers slowly shift from yellow to papery shades of tan. This tough, drought-tolerant Southwestern native can be found in the wild growing in prairies and grasslands but can easily be grown in other situations. Rocky to average soil, blazing sun, and occasional water are all it needs. Its slowly spreading, finely textured mound of foliage makes it a perfect ground cover. It can also be used on the edge of a flower bed or in a xeric pollinator garden.

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Dan Johnson lives and gardens in Denver and in Tucson, Arizona. He is an associate director of horticulture for the Denver Botanic Gardens.

Herbs may not top many people’s lists for late-season interest, but purple winter savory is worth seeking out. The straight species is a low, mounding, shrubby perennial with compact foliage and subtle white flowers; it is certainly not a show-stopper, but this subspecies is another story. Tight domes of finely textured foliage expand quietly all summer, and by September they are aglow with purple blossoms on compact spikes. In bloom, this plant gives the appearance of a densely manicured lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 5–10). Purple winter savory is drought tolerant and is comfortable on slopes and in poor soil. A light trim in spring is all the maintenance it requires.

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PURPLE WINTER SAVORY Satureja montana subsp. illyrica ZONES: 3b–8 SIZE: 4 to 8 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide

REGIONAL EXPERT ‘STAND BY ME’ BUSH CLEMATIS Clematis ‘Stand By Me’

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CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid Attracting bees and butterflies aplenty, this lovely bush clematis’s lavender, bell-shaped flowers first appear in summer, with a large second flush occurring in autumn. This hybrid is a cross of the North American native Fremont’s leather-flower (C. fremontii, Zones 4–7) and the European solitary virgin’s bower (C. integrifolia, Zones 4–9). It’s deer and rabbit resistant and dies back at the end of the season. Cut old stems to about 4 inches from the ground in late winter or early spring, and apply a fresh layer of mulch. While not a climber, ‘Stand By Me’ still does best with some support. REGION ‘SWEET SANDIA’ CONEFLOWER Echinacea ‘Sweet Sandia’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 2 feet tall and 1½ feet wide

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FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202274 MOUNTAIN WEST

CONDITIONS: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid The stunning blooms of this coneflower have lime green–tipped petals that melt into pink bases with red central disks. These blooms just might remind you of a slice of watermelon. ‘Sweet Sandia’ has compact, uniform growth, with flowers that stand tall from midsummer into fall, attracting hummingbirds and other pollinators. This coneflower has a profusion of blossoming stems that will provide you with cut flowers for months. It establishes quickly and emerges rapidly in spring. ‘Sweet Sandia’ tolerates poor and gritty soils and is deer resistant.

‘POLISHED BRASS’ JOE PYE WEED Eupatorium ‘Polished Brass’ ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 4 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid This is a vigorous, fast-growing nativar that attracts birds, bees, and butterflies, especially monarchs. It’s also deer and rabbit resistant. ‘Polished Brass’ Joe Pye weed’s parents are native late Joe Pye weed (E. serotinum, Zones 4–9) and nativar ‘Milk and Cookies’ American Joe Pye weed (E. perfoliatum ‘Milk and Cookies’, Zones 3–8). A large, upright plant that doesn’t spread, ‘Polished Brass’ has glossy foliage with a bronze-red tinge. Its soft white flowers cover the foliage completely in late summer through fall. This hybrid is the perfect choice for a pollinator garden, and it is tolerant of many different soil types. Cheryl Moore-Gough is a retired Montana extension horticulture specialist and a coauthor of The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds

‘RUBY TUESDAY’ HEUCHERA Heuchera ‘Ruby Tuesday’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 16 inches tall and 14 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid You just can’t beat the newer heucheras when looking for colorful foliage. The leaves of ‘Ruby Tuesday’ are a deep ruby color, maturing to merlot with a silvery cast in fall. They are very ruffled and fluted and grow in a mounded, dense habit. Best of all, ‘Ruby Tuesday’ is on the larger side for a heuchera. Plant it where you want maximum contrast in texture and color. Tiny, starlike, white to pale peach flowers appear in late spring. Once established, this cultivar is drought tolerant; be sure not to overwater, as it is susceptible to root rot.

ZONES: 3–7 SIZE: 3 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide

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WESTERN IRONWEED Vernonia baldwinii ZONES: 5–9 SIZE: 3 to 5 feet tall and 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; dry to moist soil NATIVE RANGE: Central United States Tall and robust Western ironweed holds its own through our long, hot summers. It produces gorgeous purplefuchsia blossoms that contrast perfectly with its dark foliage. You can expect it to spend the whole summer gaining height and foliage mass before bursting into bloom in late summer and autumn. While it is most commonly listed as growing 3 to 5 feet tall, I’ve always had it meet or exceed the upper end of that height range in my garden. It is definitely a plant that looks best in a grouping, and keep in mind that it may outgrow its original space through rapid root spread. But who would ever want less of this beauty?

CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; dry to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Pennsylvania, west to Texas and south to FrostweedFloridamakes a great transition plant from wild woodland edges to more-manicured garden areas.

Because it is shade loving, it is a great understory plant; in the wild I commonly see it growing in the shade of large oaks. Frostweed grows rather tall and lanky with dark green leaves, and it produces clusters of white flowers in fall. While the foliage and blooms are sufficiently beautiful to warrant including this species in your garden, frostweed also has a special winter trick: With the first hard freeze of winter the stem splits, and a delicate, ephemeral spiral of ice emerges. If you’re lucky you may even witness the phenomenon twice.

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Karen Beaty is a forestry specialist for the Wildland Conservation Division of Austin, Texas.

HEARTLEAF ROSEMALLOW Hibiscus martianus ZONES: 8–10 SIZE: 1 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; dry, well-drained (even rocky/gravelly) soil NATIVE RANGE: Texas, northern Mexico This little native hibiscus from South Texas is a stunner. The flowers are very showy, about 2 to 3 inches across and bright velvety red. Even in drought conditions the plant will thrive and bloom, although it will remain smaller. The heart-shaped leaves are a silvery green (a common foliage color found in desert plants). Heartleaf rosemallow will flower nearly year-round as long as it isn’t subjected to a hard freeze. Because it is native to the very southern portion of our region, this unusual perennial needs to be planted in warmer microclimates within the garden and protected with mulch in more northern areas.

CHOCOLATE DAISY Berlandiera lyrata ZONES: 4–10 SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; dry to moist, well-drained soil

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NATIVE RANGE: Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Mexico This daisy is beloved for its striking chocolate scent. Merely brushing up against the flowers can bring out the aroma, and on hot summer days you can often smell it from a distance. The flowers, cheerful yellow rays about 2 inches across, are held on long stems growing from mounded or slightly sprawling clumps of gray-green foliage. Chocolate daisy blooms nearly year-round in warm weather, and most reliably between April and November. The seed heads that come after the flowers are also beautiful, and I can never resist putting one in my pocket for later. I like to use this species in rock gardens and other arid locations, as the plant is very drought tolerant.

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FROSTWEED Verbesina virginica ZONES: 8–11 SIZE: 3 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide

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POLLIA Pollia japonica ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 1 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; average to wet, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Eastern Asia Because I love tropical plants but do not want to dig the entire garden every fall, I will try any perennial with a tropical vibe. Pollia, with its long, glossy leaves spiraling up 2-foot-tall stems, has a look usually reserved for jungles. In summer, terminal spikes of spidery white flowers bring some brightness to the shady spots that these plants prefer. By fall, the flowers are replaced by exotic blue berries on reddish pedicels. Pollia spreads slowly by rhizomes and a bit by self-sowing.

TRUMPET SPURFLOWER Plectranthus effusus var. longitubus (syn. Isodon longituba ) ZONES: 6–9 SIZE: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan Is it Plectranthus, Isodon, or Rabdosia ? Whatever you call it, this is a great choice for adding fall color in the shade. To some degree it makes me think of salvias (Salvia spp. and cvs., Zones 5–11); it is from the same family, but it is a little more loose in habit while flowering. The blue-purple flowers appear in early to midfall on 3-foot-tall stalks. Happy plants produce hundreds of flowers, which look divine near a shrub with yellow fall color or maybe combined with Japanese yellow sage. For the best blooms, opt for a spot with light shade rather than deep shade. Irvin Etienne is curator of herbaceous plants and seasonal garden design at Newfields in Indianapolis.

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JAPANESE YELLOW SAGE Salvia koyamae ZONES: 6–10 SIZE: 1 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial shade; average to dry soil NATIVE RANGE: Woodlands of Japan A salvia that grows in the shade? Count me in. This plant has become one of my go-to shade perennials, and it gives so much to the garden. It has abundant autumn flowers and large, fuzzy, highly ornamental leaves reminiscent of Turkish sage (Phlomis russelliana, Zones 5–9). The soft yellow flowers are held on 1- to 2-foot spikes. When I say “soft yellow,” I do not mean pale; this is a color that will really brighten up a shady spot. Japanese yellow sage is a good grower, and after a couple years it can get to be 2 feet across.

REGIONAL EXPERT ‘GOLDEN ANGEL’ JAPANESE SHRUB MINT Leucosceptrum japonicum ‘Golden Angel’ ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; moderately moist, rich, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan If you need something other than gold hostas (Hosta cvs., Zones 3–9) to brighten up shady spots, try ‘Golden Angel’, the golden-leaved form of Japanese shrub mint. Growing up to 3 feet tall and wide, it can hold a corner of the garden easily. You may grow it primarily for the foliage (as I do), but this plant also has creamy spikes of pollinatorpleasing flowers in early fall. The foliage color will likely diminish but still remain relevant as the season progresses.

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This short, creeping ground cover shines with an abundance of tiny blue stars from spring through fall. It is a favorite for adding a carpet of flowers between pavers, softening rock hardscapes, and spilling over the sides of fall containers. In the border, it can provide a cohesive understory of color beneath roses and other shrubs. The dainty, scalloped leaves are charming even when it is not in bloom. Blue star creeper can spread vigorously, so consider that when planning your site.

Don’t be fooled by its underwhelming appearance in a nursery pot; this is a perennial that delivers for seven to eight months and asks for nothing in return. ‘Prairie Lode’ develops into a magnificent, clumping ground cover once established. It has distinct needle-like foliage and cheery yellow blooms from May until frost. A tough prairie native, it thrives in even our driest, poorest soil, improving notoriously difficult areas with its golden glow. ‘Prairie Lode’ is delightful in mass plantings and draping over the edges of containers. Cut it back hard in early spring to refresh the foliage, and then leave it to work its magic for the rest of the year.

REGIONAL EXPERT BLUE STAR CREEPER Pratia pedunculata

TUSCAN GOLD™ FALSE SUNFLOWER Heliopsis helianthoides ‘Inhelsodor’

Uniquely purple and truly perennial, ‘Grape Sensation’ is a standout among blanket flowers. Its wiry stems sway in the breeze, bringing movement and whimsy to the garden from midspring up until the first frost. This clumper enlarges gradually each year, putting on a dazzling performance at mature size. Not only is it low-maintenance, but it is arguably better if not deadheaded, as its button-like, sterile seed heads resemble gomphrena (Gomphrena spp. and cvs., Zones 9–11). Though it is more tolerant of moisture than most blanket flowers, it performs best in well-draining soil. ‘PRAIRIE LODE’ SUNDROPS Calylophus serrulatus ‘Prairie Lode’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 8 inches tall and 15 to 18 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Western and central North America

‘GRAPE SENSATION’ BLANKET FLOWER Gaillardia aestivalis var. winkleri ‘Grape Sensation’ ZONES: 6–9 SIZE: 15 to 24 inches tall and 18 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to bright shade; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Parts of Texas

ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 24 to 32 inches tall and 24 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; moderately fertile, well-drained soil

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SOUTHEAST

NATIVE RANGE: Central and eastern North America With radiant gold blooms that perfectly encapsulate the changing seasons, Tuscan Gold™ can withstand the heat of summer and carry the garden all the way into fall. While this cultivar is more compact than most false sunflowers, and easier to tuck into small spaces, it steals the show in mass plantings. It is a mid- to late-season powerhouse: drought tolerant, deer resistant, and a magnet for butterflies. For a winning combination, pair it with complementary flower colors such as the brilliant violet of ‘Homestead Purple’ verbena (Verbena canadensis ‘Homestead Purple’, Zones 6–10). Cheyenne Wine, a lifelong gardener, is a writer and photographer for Rare Roots nursery in Virginia.

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ZONES: 6–9 SIZE: ¼ to 1 inch tall and 1 to 2 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist soil

NATIVE RANGE: Australia

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This nonvining clematis is easy to grow and brings a unique presence and delicious fragrance to the late summer–early fall garden. The lovely 1-inch lilac flowers are tubular in shape and have strongly recurved petals. They occur in the leaf axils and tips of lax stems, which are up to 3 feet long. The blossoms are often likened to those of a hyacinth due to the shape and fragrance of the individual flowers. Use this scandent clematis to trail over a wall, weave through other perennials and shrubs, or form a large ground cover; it will spread by rhizomes and seed. The robust leaves are thrice divided (ternate), dark green, and coarsely toothed (and unperturbed by insects or disease). After the flowers fade, the characteristic fluffy clematis seed structures are interesting for several weeks. This plant can be cut back to 6 inches tall in spring or fall.

NUTTALL’S RAYLESS GOLDENROD Bigelowia nuttallii ZONES: 5–9 SIZE: 8 to 12 inches tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil

FALSE SINNINGIA Hemiboea subcapitata ZONES: 6–9 SIZE: 12 inches tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full shade; evenly moist, fertile soil NATIVE RANGE: China I first stumbled across this plant on an early fall day in a beautiful shady garden in southern New Hampshire. The glossy green foliage and tubular white flowers with interior purple spots grabbed my attention. What was this enticing vixen with hairy little foxglove-like flowers? My hostess rattled off the awkward name, Hemiboea subcapitata, and revealed that it is in the Gesnereaceae family. What? A hardy member of the African violet family—woah! This unusual plant is by no means mainstream; it is largely only known and grown by garden cognoscenti (those who frequent specialty nurseries, plant society meetings, and botanic garden plant sales), but it is worth seeking out and giving a prime position in dappled shade. Where it is happy it will begin to colonize pleasantly, making your gardening friends both curious and envious. Joann Vieira is the director of horticulture at The Trustees of Reservations in Massachusetts REGIONAL EXPERT

Airy clusters of bright golden blooms top the stiff, upright stems of this plant from late September into October. This charming member of the Asteraceae family bears numerous disk flowers held in flat-topped clusters that hover above the grasslike foliage and are quite showy in mass. The blossoming stems bear a few similarly narrow leaves scattered along their length. This unusual native perennial makes a great rock garden or green roof plant, eventually forming mats. Adding bright cheer in autumn and self-sowing where happy, it’s very long blooming and a treasure to late pollinators looking for flowers when little else is available. As a bonus, the stems can be cut and used in floral arrangements as an especially bright filler.

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NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States

NORTHEAST

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WILLOW GENTIAN Gentiana asclepiadea ZONES: 4–8 SIZE: 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; fertile, evenly moist, slightly acidic soil NATIVE RANGE: Central and Eastern Europe, Asia Beautiful deep blue funnel-shaped flowers lie elegantly along the arching stems of this undemanding gentian in late summer and early fall. Adjacent to the flowers, lance-shaped leaves, opposite one another or sometimes whorled, adorn the 2- to 3-foot-long stems. The blooms occur most abundantly on the upper portion of the stem. This beauty is native to moist woodlands in mountainous regions and so is happily established in shady gardens with rich, evenly moist but not boggy soil. Just imagine how beautiful the wandlike stems, bedecked with brilliant blue flowers, would look cascading down a slope.

TUBE CLEMATIS Clematis heracleifolia var. davidiana ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 3 feet tall and 4 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average soil NATIVE RANGE: Northern China, Korea

A–C Acer circinatum (AY-sir sir-sin-AY-tum), p. 48 Acer palmatum (AY-sir pal-MAY-tum), p. 48 Aconitum carmichaelii (ak-on-EYE-tum kar-my-KEElee-eye), p. 33 Aconitum henryi (ak-on-EYE-tum HEN-ree-eye), p. 67

Cornus alba (KOR-nus ALL-bah), p. 45 Crocus (KROW-kus), p. 14 D–E Dendrobium (den-DROE-bee-um), p. 30 Deschampsia cespitosa (des-KAMP-see-ah sess-pihTOE-sah), pp. 64, 71 Dracaena marginata (drah-SEE-nah mar-jin-AY-tah), p. 30

Clematis integrifolia (KLEM-ah-tiss in-teg-rih-FOE-leeah), p. 74 Colchicum autumnale (KOHL-chi-kum ot-um-NAL-ee), p. 72 Colocasia esculenta (kol-oh-KAY-shah ess-kew-LENtah), p. 15

Clematis heracleifolia var. davidiana (KLEM-ah-tiss her-ah-klee-ih-FOE-lee-ah variety dah-vid-ee-AYnah), p. 78

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Here is a handy guide to help you pronounce the botanical names in this issue.

Choisya ternata (CHOY-zee-ah ter-NAY-tah), pp. 49, 83 Chrysanthemum (kris-AN-theh-mum), p. 33 Clematis (KLEM-ah-tiss), p. 74

Calamagrostis × acutiflora (kal-ah-mah-GROS-tiss ex ah-kew-tih-FLOOR-ah), pp. 14, 67 Calylophus serrulatus (kal-ih-LOW-fus ser-oo-LAY-tus), p. 77 Carex oshimensis (KARE-eks oh-she-MEN-sis), p. 49 Cercis canadensis (SIR-sis kan-ah-DEN-sis), p. 39

Actaea japonica (ak-TAY-ah jah-PON-ih-kah), p. 37 Actaea simplex (ak-TAY-ah SIM-pleks), p. 37 Aesculus pavia (ESS-kew-lus PAY-vee-ah), p. 14

Clematis fremontii (KLEM-ah-tiss free-MONT-ee-eye), p. 74

Alcea rosea (al-SEE-ah ROSE-ee-ah), p. 66 Allium thunbergii (AL-ee-um thun-BER-jee-eye), p. 32 Amsonia (am-SO-nee-ah), p. 34 Amsonia hubrichtii (am-SO-nee-ah hew-BRIK-teeeye), pp. 39, 64 Amsonia tabernaemontana (am-SO-nee-ah tab-er-naymon-TAN-ah), pp. 68, 71 Andropogon gerardii (an-dro-PO-gon jer-AR-dee-eye), p. 35

Chamaecyparis obtusa (kam-ah-SIP-ar-iss ob-TOOsah), p. 45

Asarum europaeum (ah-SAR-um yur-oh-PAY-um), p. 68 Athyrium filix-femina (ah-THEER-ee-um FIL-iks-FEMin-ah), p. 68 Begonia (bah-GO-nyah), p. 30 Berlandiera lyrata (ber-lan-dee-ERR-ah ly-RAY-tah), p. 75 Bigelowia nuttallii (big-ee-LO-wee-ah nuh-TALL-eeeye), p. 78

PRONUNCIATION GUIDE

Clematis Echinacea Begonia

Lysimachia nummularia (lye-sih-MAK-ee-ah numyew-LAR-ee-ah), p. 15 M–P Monarda didyma (moe-NAR-dah DID-ih-mah), p. 66

Hosta sieboldiana (HOSS-tah see-bold-ee-AY-nah), p. 68

Philodendron (fil-oh-DEN-dron), p. 28

Lespedeza thunbergii (less-ped-EE-zah thun-BER-jeeeye), pp. 51, 53, 54, 55, 57

Lonicera prolifera (lon-ISS-er-ah pro-LIFF-ur-ah), p. 70

Echinacea (eh-kih-NAY-shah), p. 74

Heuchera villosa (HEW-ker-ah vih-LOW-sah), p. 65

Filipendula rubra (fil-ih-PEND-yew-lah ROO-brah), p. 66

Hydrangea paniculata (hy-DRAIN-jah pah-nik-yewLAY-tah), pp. 67, 70, 83 Hydrangea quercifolia (hy-DRAIN-jah kwer-sih-FOElee-ah), p. 49

Gentiana asclepiadea (jent-she-AY-nah ah-SKLEEpee-ah-dee-ah), p. 78 Gentiana sino-ornata (jent-she-AY-nah sigh-no-orNAY-tah), p. 72 Geranium (jer-AY-nee-um), p. 39 Ginkgo biloba (GINK-oh by-LO-bah), pp. 65, 71 Gomphrena (gom-FREE-nah), p. 77

Hylotelephium (high-lo-tel-IF-ee-um), pp. 33, 45, 70

Ophiopogon planiscapus (oh-fee-oh-POE-gon plan-issKAP-us), p. 15

Hakonechloa macra (hak-on-eh-KLO-ah MAK-rah), p. 45 Helenium (hell-EE-nee-um), p. 65

Hemiboea subcapitata (hem-ee-BOE-a sub-kap-ihTAY-tah), p. 78

Kirengeshoma palmata (kih-ren-gesh-OH-mah palmAY-tah), p. 37

Lespedeza liukiuensis (less-ped-EE-zah lee-oo-keyoo-EN-siss), p. 57

Pennisetum alopecuroides (pen-ih-SEE-tum al-oh-pekyur-OY-deez), pp. 45, 54 Peperomia (pep-er-OH-mee-ah), p. 30

Juncus inflexus (JUN-kus in-FLEX-us), p. 48 Juniperus (joo-NIP-er-us), p. 34

Leucosceptrum japonicum (lew-coe-SEP-trum jahPON-ih-cum), p. 76

Eupatorium serotinum (yew-pah-TOR-ee-um ser-ohTY-num), p. 74 Eutrochium maculatum (yew-TROE-kee-um mak-yewLAY-tum), pp. 70, 71 F–H Fagus grandifolia (FAY-gus gran-dih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 24 Ficus (FY-kus), p. 28

Lavandula (lah-VAN-dew-lah), p. 73 Lespedeza (less-ped-EE-zah), p. 51

Hibiscus martianus (hy-BIS-kus mar-tee-ah-NOOS), p. 75 Hosta (HOSS-tah), p. 76 Hosta plantaginea (HOSS-tah plan-tah-JIN-ee-ah), pp. 68, 71

PRONUNCIATION GUIDE continued from page 79

Heptacodium miconioides (hep-tah-KOE-dee-um my-kon-ee-OY-deez), p. 14 Heuchera (HEW-ker-ah), pp. 14, 49, 74

Heliopsis helianthoides (hee-lee-OP-sis hee-lee-anTHOY-deez), p. 77

Gaillardia aestivalis var. winkleri (gay-LARD-ee-ah est-eh-VAL-iss variety WINK-ler-eye), p. 77

Eryngium planum (air-IN-jee-um PLAY-num), p. 64 Euonymus alatus (yew-ON-ih-mus ah-LAY-tus), p. 49 Eupatorium (yew-pah-TOR-ee-um), p. 74 Eupatorium perfoliatum (yew-pah-TOR-ee-um per-folee-AY-tum), p. 74

Isodon longitubus (EYE-so-don lon-jih-TOO-bus), p. 76

Hylotelephium spectabile (high-lo-tel-IF-ee-um spek-TAB-il-ee), p. 73 I–L Ilex crenata (EYE-leks kren-AY-tah), p. 45

Lespedeza bicolor (less-ped-EE-zah BY-kul-or), pp. 51, 55, 56, 57

Nyssa sylvatica (NISS-ah sil-VAT-ih-kah), p. 24

Phlomis russeliana (FLOW-miss russ-el-ee-AY-nah), p. 76

Monstera (mon-STAIR-ah), p. 28 Morina longifolia (mor-EE-nah lon-jih-FOE-lee-ah), p. 12 Morina persica (mor-EE-nah PER-sih-kah), p. 12 Narcissus (nar-SIS-us), p. 14 Nerine bowdenii (nay-REE-nee bo-DEN-ee-eye), p. 72

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202280 ).rightbottom79,(p.BennerJenniferleft);79,(p.FaganStephaniephotos:OtherGervais.Michellenoted:whereexceptPhotos,

Monarda Sambucus nigra Hydrangea paniculata

Leucosceptrum stellipilum (lew-coe-SEP-trum stell-ipih-lum), p. 38 Lonicera (lon-ISS-er-ah), p. 12

Iris sibirica (EYE-riss sih-BEER-ih-kah), p. 70

Hartley Botanic hartley-botanic.com p. 2

Singing Tree Gardens singtree.com p. 31 Sturdi-Built Greenhouse Mfgr. sturdi-built.com p. 27 PAGE

Salix alba var. sericea (SAY-liks AL-bah variety serISS-ee-ah),pp.66,71

Salvia greggii (SAL-vee-ah GREG-ee-eye),p.73 Salvia koyamae (SAL-vee-ah koy-AH-may),p.76 Sambucus nigra (sam-BOO-kus NY-grah),pp.66,71 Sanguinaria canadensis (san-gwin-AIR-ee-ah kan-ahDEN-sis),p.14 Sanguisorba officinalis (san-gwih-SOR-bah oh-fi-shiNAH-lis),p.64

For

advertisers’ index ADVERTISER WEBADDRESS PAGE Alitex Greenhouses alitex-greenhouses.com p. 11 Bartlett Tree Experts bartlett.com p. 23 Best of Fine Gardening Archive tauntonstore.com p. 9 Bluestone Perennials bluestoneperennials.com p. 7 Claytonhill Greenhouse Co. claytonhill.com p. 19 Colorblends colorblends.com p. 27 Coopersmith’sOne-Of-AKind Tours coopersmiths.com p. 23 DR Power Equipment godrpower.com p. 19 Dan's Dahlias dansdahlias.com p. 23 DiTarando ditarando.com p. 9 Douglas Fey Pottery douglasfeypottery.com p. 27 Dramm Corporation dramm.com p. 17 Dr. JimZ drjimz.com p. 29 Fine Gardening All Access finegardening.com/all-access p. 31 Fishpondaerator.com fishpondaerator.com p. 31 Florian Greenhouses floriangreenhouse.com

Phlox paniculata (floks pah-nik-yew-LAY-tah), pp.67,70 Pinus strobus (PY-nus STROE-bus),p.45 Plectranthus effusus var. longitubus (plek-TRAN-thus eh-FEW-sus variety lon-jih-TOO-bus),p.76 Pollia japonica (POLL-ee-ah jah-PON-ih-kah),p.76 Polypodium glycyrrhiza (pol-ee-POE-dee-um glick-erEYE-zah),p.72

Mohican Wind Harps mohicanwindharps.com p. 29 Osmocote plantersplace.com p. 84

NAME STATES PAGE Elephant’s ear (Colocasia esculenta) AL,CA,FL 15 Burning bush (Euonymus alatus) CT,DE,GA,IN,KY,MA,MD,ME,MN,NH, 49 NJ,NY,PA,RI,SC,TN,VA,WI,WV

Salix elaeagnos subsp. angustifolia (SAY-liks ell-eeAG-nose subspecies an-gus-tih-FOE-lee-ah),p.70 Salvia (SAL-vee-ah),p.76

FINEGARDENING.COM 81

Schizachyrium scoparium (skiz-ah-KEER-ee-um skoPAR-ee-um),p.14 Solidago (sol-ih-DAY-go),p.33 Sporobolus heterolepis (spoor-OB-oh-lus het-er-ohLEP-iss),p.64 Stachys monieri (STAK-iss mon-ee-AIR-ee),p.64 Streptocarpus sect. saintpaulia (strep-toe-KAR-pus section saynt-PAWL-ee-ah),p.30 Symphyotrichum ericoides var. prostratum (sim-fee-ohTRIK-um err-ih-KOY-deez variety pros-TRAH-tum), p.34 Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (sim-fee-oh-TRIK-um ob-lon-jih-FOE-lee-um),p.65 Taxus × media (TAKS-us ex MEE-dee-ah),p.49 Teucrium (TEW-kree-um),p.45 Thuja occidentalis (THOO-yah oks-ee-den-TAL-is), p.70 Tricyrtis macrantha subsp. macranthopsis (try-SIR-tiss mah-KRAN-thah subspecies mah-kran-THOP-sis), p.38 Tsuga mertensiana (SOO-gah mer-ten-see-AY-nah), p.48 Verbena canadensis (ver-BEE-nah kan-ah-DEN-sis),p.77 Verbesina virginica (ver-bess-SINE-ah ver-JIN-ih-kah), p.75 Vernonia angustifolia (ver-NO-nee-ah an-gus-tih-FOElee-ah),p.34 Vernonia baldwinii (ver-NO-nee-ah bald-WIN-ee-eye), p.75 Vernonia noveboracensis (ver-NO-nee-ah no-veh-borah-SEN-sis),pp.45,67 Veronicastrum virginicum (ver-on-ih-KAS-trum verJIN-ih-kum),p.66 Zinnia grandiflora (ZIN-ee-ah gran-dih-FLOOR-ah),p.73 p. p. 27

Ribes odoratum (RY-beez oh-dor-AY-tum),p.21 Ribes rubrum (RY-beez ROO-brum),p.21 Ribes sativum (RY-beez sah-TY-vum),p.21

Paw Paw Everlast Label Company everlastlabel.com p. 31 Proven Winners provenwinners-shrubs.com p. 5

Satureja montana var. illyrica (sat-ur-AY-ah mon-TANah variety ih-leer-ih-kah),p.73 Schefflera (shef-LAIR-ah),p.30

Gothic Arch Greenhouses gothicarchgreenhouses.com p. 31

Shrub bush clover (Lespedeza bicolor)AL,GA,IN,KY,NC,PA,SC,TN,VA,WV 51 Thunberg bush clover (Lespedeza thunbergii)GA,KY 51 Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)AK,CT,IL,KY,MA,NH,OR,PA,RI,TN,VA,15WI,WV

The Pruning Book tauntonstore.com p. 19

The following plants recommended in this issue are considered invasive in some areas of the country. more information, please visit invasiveplantatlas.org.

Santa Barbara Greenhouses sbgreenhouse.com p. 23

Knock Out Roses knockoutroses.com p. 13

INVASIVE ALERT

Pratia pedunculata (PRAY-ti-ah ped-unk-yew-LAY-tah), p.77 R–Z Rabdosia (rab-DOE-see-ah),p.76

Ribes (RY-beez),p.20 Ribes nigrum (RY-beez NY-grum),p.21

Rodgersia podophylla (rod-JER-zee-ah poe-doe-FILah),pp.68,71 Rosa (ROE-sah),pp.66,70 Rudbeckia fulgida (rud-BEK-ee-ah FULL-jih-dah),p.48 Ruellia simplex (roo-EL-lee-a SIM-plex),p.24

John Scheepers johnscheepers.com p. 15 KidsGardening kidsgardening.org p. 27

25 Garden Artisans gardenartisans.com

Garden Debut gardendebut.com p. 9

ADVERTISER WEBADDRESS

Irish Eyes Garden Seeds irisheyesgardenseeds.com p. 25

The zones stated in Fine Gardening are based on several sources and should be treated as general guidelines when selecting plants for your garden. Many other factors may come into play in determining healthy plant growth. Microclimates, wind, soil type, soil moisture, humidity, snow, and winter sunshine may greatly affect the adaptability of plants. For more information and to zoom in on your area, visit the map online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov.

PUERTO RICO ALASKA

USDAService,ResearchAgriculturaltheofcourtesyIllustration:

FINE GARDENING | OCTOBER 202282 THE USDA PLANT HARDINESS ZONE MAP

Average Annual Extreme Minimum Temperature, 1976–2005 Temp (°F) Zone Temp (°C) -60 to -55 -55 to -50 -50 to -45 -45 to -40 -40 to -35 -35 to -30 -30 to -25 -25 to -20 -20 to -15 -15 to -10 -10 to -5 -5 to 0 0 to 5 5 to 10 10 to 15 15 to 20 20 to 25 25 to 30 30 to 35 35 to 40 40 to 45 45 to 50 50 to 55 55 to 60 60 to 65 65 to 70 -51.1 to -48.3 -48.3 to -45.6 -45.6 to -42.8 -42.8 to -40 -40 to -37.2 -37.2 to -34.4 -34.4 to -31.7 -31.7 to -28.9 -28.9 to -26.1 -26.1 to -23.3 -23.3 to -20.6 -20.6 to -17.8 -17.8 to -15 -15 to -12.2 -12.2 to -9.4 -9.4 to -6.7 -6.7 to -3.9 -3.9 to -1.1 -1.1 to 1.7 1.7 to 4.4 4.4 to 7.2 7.2 to 10 10 to 12.8 12.8 to 15.6 15.6 to 18.3 18.3 to 21.1

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CAPTIVATING COMBINATION 1. Quick Fire® panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’, Zones 5–9) 2. Sundance® Mexican orange blossom (Choisya ternata ‘Lich’, Zones 7–10) CONDITIONS: Full sun; moist, well-drained soil DESIGNED BY Courtney Olander for a garden in Seattle Photo by Doreen Wynja

stillThere’stime. Fall offers another opportunity to grow fresh, tasty salad crops. Spinach and lettuce, for example, prefer cooler growing conditions. To get the best results, be sure to use Osmocote® Smart-Release® Plant Food Flower & Vegetable. If you grow your own, grow with Osmocote®