Nov/Dec 2015 by SPAN magazine

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 Rs. 20

The Berkshires Driftwood Beach Nashville Salmon River I&M Canal National Heritage Area Santa Fe Litchfield Hills Citrus County White Mountains

Seasonal Travel Carbon County

Beautiful Berkshires By STEVE FOX

The

Berkshire Mountains

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

offer cultural attractions in a scenic natural setting.

n the closing decades of the 19th century, as America was enjoying a period of unprecedented prosperity, which author Mark Twain called the Gilded Age, wealthy families from Boston and New York built summer homes in the scenic Berkshire Mountains of western Massachusetts. Although the families called them “cottages,” these sprawling residences and landscaped grounds were like mansions. Some live on today, as hotels, resorts and museums. “These were well-to-do city folks who were used to having cultural attractions close at hand,” says Lindsey Schmid, director of marketing for the Berkshire Visitors Bureau. “So now that they’re here, what were they going to do? Their answer was to establish

cultural facilities—music and art and dance and drama—here in a beautiful natural setting. That’s the heritage for all the wonderful things the Berkshires offer visitors today.” While it’s easy to simply relax and enjoy the region’s clean mountain air, green forests and plentiful rivers and lakes, there’s always something happening in the Berkshires. Summer is the prime season for attractions like the Tanglewood Music Festival, held at what was once a family estate and is now the site of dozens of concerts featuring symphonic, chamber, choral and contemporary music, along with musical theater. Jacob’s Pillow, originally a farm and now a National Historic Landmark, is home to America’s longestrunning international dance festival. In 2015,

November/December 2015

V O LU M E LV I N U M B E R 6

http://span.state.gov



Beautiful Berkshires



Secret Solitude, Haunting Beauty



By Steve Fox

By Michael Gallant



Music City, U.S.A

Golden Hills By Anne Walls

Swimming With the Gentle Giants By Candice Yacono

Summer History Ride



The River of No Return



By Carrie Loewenthal Massey

By Jason Chiang

Good Ol’ West By Steve Fox

36 Winter

The Peak of Winter

JAMIE GEMMITI © AP-WWP/ The Conway Daily Sun

DEREK BRUFF/Courtesy Flickr

By Jason Chiang

Spring

Fall for Santa Fe By Paromita Pain

By Michael Gallant

Editor in Chief Traci L. Mell Printed and published by Craig L. Dicker on behalf of the Government of the United States of America and printed at Thomson Press India Ltd., 18/35 Delhi Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana 121007 and published at the Public Affairs Section, American Embassy, American Center, 24 K.G. Marg, New Delhi 110001. Opinions expressed in this 44-page magazine do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of the U.S. Government.  Articles with a star may be reprinted with permission. Those without a star are copyrighted and may not be reprinted. Contact SPAN at 011-23472135 or editorspan@state.gov

Summer

KARL WEATHERLY/Photodisc/Thinkstock

OGDEN GIGLI/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

CONTENTS All Seasons

Below: Jiminy Peak Mountain Resort in Hancock is the largest ski and snowboard resort in southern New England. Since opening in 1948, it has evolved into a four-season resort.

Reviewing Editor Branden L. Young

Editor Deepanjali Kakati Associate Editor Suparna Mukherji Hindi Editor Giriraj Agarwal Urdu Editor Syed Sulaiman Akhtar Copy Editor Shah Md. Tahsin Usmani Editorial Assistant Yugesh Mathur

Art Director Hemant Bhatnagar Deputy Art Directors Qasim Raza, Shah Faisal Khan Production/Circulation Manager Alok Kaushik Printing Assistant Manish Gandhi

Front cover: A visitor photographs the snowfall on the flower-covered trees in Fort Collins, Colorado. Photograph by Erin Hull © AP-WWP/The Coloradoan Research Services : Bureau of International Information Programs, The American Library

4 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

GILLIAN JONES/The Berkshire Eagle © AP-WWP

KEVIN KENNEFICK/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism Courtesy Mohawk Trail Association

Top right: Visitors admire a bronze sculpture outside DeVries Fine Art, Inc. in Lenox, Berkshire County. Above right: “Wall Drawing 880” by Sol LeWitt at the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art in North Adams. With annual attendance of 120,000, the museum ranks among the most visited institutions in the United States dedicated to new art. Above right, above center right, right and center right: Visitors can enjoy many adventure sports and outdoor activities in the Berkshires, including zip lining, jet skiing, flyboarding, riding mountain coasters and yoga. Far right: The Berkshire Botanical Garden encompasses six hectares of cultivated land in Stockbridge.

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

it hosted dance companies from Cuba, the Netherlands, Germany, France, Canada and all across the United States. An Indian dance company, Shantala Shivalingappa, also performed there in 2013. “The Pillow really provides an immersive experience in dance. It’s much more than a performing arts center because we have the schools and archives,” says Andrea Sholler, general manager at Jacob’s Pillow. “We get a lot of international visitors because we have dance companies from all over the world. When people come here, they feel the breadth of what we have to offer. A family can come on the weekend and enjoy a matinee performance, have a picnic and then stay for a scholarly talk or a free performance on our indoor/outdoor stage.” Art lovers can lose themselves year-round in the many museums, historic sites and gardens in the Berkshires. One such site is the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (Mass MoCA), located in a renovated 19th century factory complex. It now houses dozens of galleries with hundreds of works of visual and performing art, along with shops and restaurants. “There are a lot of jaws hitting the floor when visitors come to Mass MoCA for the first time,” says Jodi Joseph, director of communications at the museum. “They’re amazed by the sheer magnitude of the place. Another special thing is that we’ve retained so much of the original 19th century architecture. You can really feel the presence of all the workers who spent time in these factories, where things were made and continue to be made.” Many famous writers and artists have called the Berkshires home. These include novelists

OGDEN GIGLI/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

KRISTI PITSCH/Courtesy Jacob’s Pillow

STEFANIE MOTTA/Courtesy Jacob’s Pillow

CHRISTOPHER DUGGAN/Courtesy Jacob’s Pillow

Right: Erica Essner Performance Co-op performs at Jacob’s Pillow. Constructed in 1981 to provide additional rehearsal space, the outdoor stage at Jacob’s Pillow is set against a stunning Berkshire Hills backdrop. Below: The Pillow Pub is a favorite gathering spot for casual dining. Below right: A photography exhibit by Lois Greenfield in the Blake’s Barn Gallery and Reading Room at Jacob’s Pillow.

JERRY AND PAT DONAHO/Courtesy Flickr

like Nathaniel Hawthorne and Edith Wharton, and landscape painters like Thomas Cole and George Inness. Herman Melville wrote “MobyDick or, the Whale” while living at his mountain farm here and quintessential American artist Norman Rockwell spent his later years living and working in the area. The Norman Rockwell Museum, one of the most popular year-round cultural attractions in the Berkshires, houses hundreds of his original paintings, drawings and personal memorabilia. While there’s plenty to do indoors, the Berkshires also offer a wide variety of outdoor activities. These include hiking, biking, river rafting, fishing, canoeing, hot air ballooning, golfing, yoga, skiing, ice skating and snowmobiling. A recent addition is Ramblewild, an environmentally sustainable and family-friendly aerial adventure park set in a beautiful hemlock forest. Ramblewild features eight elevated rope-

and-wood-plank obstacle courses connecting the trees at varying heights and requiring different levels of exertion to complete. Four of the courses feature zip lines that carry visitors swiftly over a deep ravine. “Some courses are for families with children and others are for ‘weekend warriors’—people who exercise regularly and like to do that outdoors,” says Paolo Cugnasca, one of Ramblewild’s owners. “It’s a wonderful in-forest experience all year round. In the winter, the park is magical, and we offer snowshoeing and backcountry skiing. We are stewards of one of the most beautiful places I know.” Visitors who work up a hunger (or thirst) will find a broad choice of open-air and traditional restaurants and pubs. Many offer fresh “farm-totable” food, which take advantage of the many small farms still operating in the Berkshires. “Agriculture and food culture are part of the

Art lovers can lose themselves year-rround in the many museums, historic sites and gardens in the Berkshires.

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Right: The Mount, novelist Edith Wharton’s home in Lenox, is a National Historic Landmark. Below right and below: The Norman Rockwell Museum and studio in Stockbridge showcase many of the artist’s works and personal memorabilia.

TIM GRAFFT/Courtesy MOTT GIGI_NYC/Courtesy Flickr

Go Online

Berkshire Mountains http://berkshires.org

Jacobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jacob's Pillow

www.jacobspillow.org

Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art www.massmoca.org

Norman Rockwell Museum www.nrm.org

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

TIM GRAFFT/Courtesy MOTT

Courtesy Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

OGDEN GIGLI/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Left: Hancock Shaker Village in Pittsfield is a living history museum, with authentic Shaker buildings, costumed interpreters, shops and exhibits on the religious sect. Below: The Colonial Theatre in Pittsfield is one of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s few turn-of-the-century theaters to survive intact. Bottom left: Towns like Great Barrington provide a glimpse of life in the Berkshires. Bottom right: Fresh fruit platter at The Orchards Hotel in Williamstown.

for their tour. “Boston is a two-hour drive and New York City is three hours away,” she says. “A nice trip is to triangulate that—coming into Boston, visiting the Berkshires and, then, seeing New York on the way out. You ‘bookend’ the Berkshires with urban experiences.” During summer, most hotels and motels in the Berkshires have a three-night minimum stay and prices start at about $125 [approximately Rs. 8000] a night. There are usually no minimum stays the rest of the year and prices start around $85 [approximately Rs. 5600] a night. Steve Fox is a freelance writer, former newspaper publisher and reporter based in Ventura, California.

Photographs by OGDEN GIGLI/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Berkshire experience,” said Schmid. “The stores have locally grown produce. There are roadside fruit and vegetable stands all over that run on the honor system—visitors can pick up whatever they want and leave the money.” Visitors can also take home their little piece of the Berkshires in the form of antiques and vintage treasures. Specialty stores are yet another option, which sell a wide variety of products, from handmade chocolates and locally crafted textiles to exclusive pieces of glass, jewelry, ceramics and sculpture. The Berkshires are attracting more international visitors every year, Schmid says, with many flying into Boston or New York and picking up a car

OGDEN GIGLI/Courtesy Berkshire Visitors Bureau

STEPHEN G. DONALDSON/Courtesy Berkshire Visitors Bureau

Below: The Farmers Market at the Berkshire Botanical Garden is a huge attraction, especially during the Harvest Festival, one of the largest and longest running events of its kind in the United States. Below right: Fresh “farmto-table” food and locally grown produce are important aspects of the Berkshire food culture. Bottom and bottom right: Berkshire Farm and Lanesboro Country Inn.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Secret Solitude,

By MICHAEL GALLANT

ravel to the northernmost beach of Jekyll Island, a small mass of land between mainland Georgia and the Atlantic Ocean, and you’ll encounter a sight unlike any other in the United States—Driftwood Beach. It is a surreal arboreal graveyard, hewn from driftwood and living trees, and sculpted over centuries by the waves of St. Simons Sound. “It’s what ecologists call a boneyard beach,” says Jessica Scott, marketing and communications manager for the Jekyll Island Authority, the entity that governs and preserves the island. “The reason it looks the way it does is that erosion from the water has pulled the sand out from under the trees and they’ve fallen over. The salt water petrified the trees, so the bugs and sun don’t rot them, and it’s just beautiful to look at. It’s like an old man stretching

Georgia’s

Driftwood Beach

BEN THOMAS/Courtesy Flickr

offers an oasis of springtime peace and solitude.

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into wild yoga positions, or hands coming out of the earth and reaching toward the sky.” Such unique visuals have made Driftwood Beach a one-of-a-kind choice for a variety of visitors. Many marriage proposals happen on the beach, Scott says, as do the weddings that soon follow. The site also attracts photographers, painters, writers and others who wish to be inspired by the area’s striking springtime beauty. “We just had a film student out there filming for a class at the Savannah College of Art and Design,” Scott adds. “An international edition of Vogue magazine just did a shoot there as well. And lots of painters come out, set up easels and paint the sunrise, which is just gorgeous. You can’t find a sunrise like that anywhere else.” Many families also gravitate toward Driftwood

SPRING

Haunting Beauty

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provide sandals, coolers and other supplies, while Jekyll Market and the Club Café offer a wide range of food choices. “Visitors to the beach can also check out the Driftwood Bistro, which is right off of Driftwood Beach, for a bite,” says Scott. “We have a great bunch of merchants on the island, and that one’s a local favorite.” While it is an ideal destination for artists and tourists, Driftwood Beach is not the best choice for swimmers, as the strong current and submerged trees can prove to be dangerous. Instead, visitors should explore Great Dunes Park and Glory Beach, both located mid-island, as beautiful and peaceful alternatives. “Jekyll Island has [11 kilometers] of coastline, and different experiences at every beach,” says Scott. Travelers can access Jekyll Island via a number of airports, including one for small

Photographs by EVANGELIO GONZALEZ/Courtesy Flickr

STEPHEN MORTON/Courtesy Flickr

Beach during spring, and not just to shoot memorable family portraits. “Tidal pools form out on the beach and they’re great for kids to go out and play in,” says Scott. “You usually get a microcosm of sea life in them, crabs and fish, and they’re lots of fun.” “It’s really a family-friendly place,” she adds. “It’s a quiet location where parents can bring out beach chairs and relax, while the kids run around, play in the sand, swing from nature’s jungle gym and put their feet in the pools. And even when it’s really hot, the breeze on the beach is great. Visitors, especially from warmer climates, always seem to appreciate that it stays nice and cool.” Whether you need sunscreen, beach chairs or a picnic lunch, Scott recommends checking out the nearby Beach Village. Stores like Maxwell’s General Store can

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Below: Kayak tours offer visitors the opportunity to explore Jekyll Island’s salt marsh and learn about the ecology of the coastal ecosystem. Below left: Jekyll Island’s historic Crane Cottage. Bottom: Families relax in the afternoon at Driftwood Beach. Right: Sunset at Driftwood Pier. Below right and bottom right: Driftwood Beach provides great opportunities for birdwatching and photography.

Jekyll Island

www.jekyllisland.com

Jekyll Market

www.jekyllmarket.com

Club Café

www.jekyllclub.com/ dining/club-cafe

Driftwood Bistro

www.driftwoodbistro.com

Go Online

private planes on the island itself. The closest arrival spots for international visitors include Jacksonville International Airport, located just over an hour’s drive south of the island, and Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, which is larger but further away. Once travelers rent a car and drive to the island, admission is $6 (approximately Rs. 400) per vehicle, and visitors can remain there for the whole day. For those who want to spend more time on the island, weekly passes are available for $28 (approximately Rs. 1800). The island offers a number of housing options. “Large families that are visiting can rent private homes, and there are a variety of hotels as well,” says Scott. “There’s something for everyone, at every price point.”

MONICA.ORCHARD/Courtesy Flickr

EVANGELIO GONZALEZ/Courtesy Flickr

VIRGINIA STATE PARKS/Courtesy Flickr

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

Music City, U.S.A. By MICHAEL GALLANT

THOMAS HAWK/Courtesy Flickr

The world epicenter of country music, Nashville is a town like no other in spring.

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Nashville

www.visitmusiccity.com

Grand Ole Opry www.opry.com

Nashville Free Live Music Guide App http://goo.gl/xhDRTX

hether it’s inspiring a joyfully raucous line dance or helping to heal a broken heart, summoning a wistful memory of a simpler time or praising the blessings of friends and family, the music created in Nashville, Tennessee, touches the ears and hearts of millions of listeners around the world, every single day. Visitors to Nashville can experience, firsthand, the atmosphere that birthed the worldwide phenomenon of country music. “Nashville is called ‘Music City’ and, as soon as you arrive, you can really feel why it’s earned that name,” says Lena Thornton, a San Francisco-based marketing professional who recently visited Nashville for the first time during the springtime. “Because of all of the music and musical history, there’s a certain magic to the city. You can tell that you’re

surrounded by a ton of creative talent.” Perhaps the most well-known musical mainstay of Nashville is the Grand Ole Opry, a country-themed live entertainment show that has been running since 1925 and features a line-up of new stars, superstars and legends of country music, from Bill Anderson and Dolly Parton to Keith Urban and Carrie Underwood. Visitors can purchase tickets to live performances, schedule backstage tours and get a taste of the music ahead of time by livestreaming shows at opry.com. Those looking to delve into Nashville’s creative history shouldn’t miss the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Its core exhibit, “Sing Me Back Home: A Journey Through Country Music” traces the evolution of country music from its folk roots in the 19th

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countrymusichalloffame.org

Go Online

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum

video feed in Iraq. Bottom: Nashville’s John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge, which spans the Cumberland River, is one of the longest pedestrian bridges in the world. Bottom right: A 75-foot replica of singer Taylor Swift’s tour bus in the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum.

JOSH HUNTER/Courtesy Flickr

MARK HUMPHREY © AP-W WWP

TECH. SGT. CHERIE A. THURLBY, USAF

Right: Tin Pan South brings together many renowned and aspiring songwriters. Below: Record Store Day, which celebrates the culture of independently owned record stores, at Jack White’s Third Man Records. Below right: Dolly Parton performs during a Grand Ole Opry live broadcast, as U.S. soldiers watch its

can go from place to place and hear high-quality music everywhere,” she says. Visitors should check out Nashville’s “Honky Tonk Highway,” located on Lower Broadway, and jump from one free venue to another to hear live music from early in the morning to late at night. Honky-tonks are nightclubs that feature country music. The SoBro and The Gulch neighborhoods are also known for their nonstop live music and free performances. Smartphone users can plan their excursions ahead of time with the Nashville Live Music Guide app, available free for iOS and Android devices. The spring season brings with it Tin Pan South, one of the world’s largest songwriters’ festivals. In addition, visitors can participate in Record Store Day, which celebrates independent record stores and classic vinyl, and

BOB MULLER /Courtesy Flickr

century to its current level of global popularity. The museum also features exhibits on current country hitmakers like Trisha Yearwood and Luke Bryan. For visitors who want to experience the music firsthand, the museum offers performances and discussions with local songwriters every Saturday, as well as instrument demonstrations on Sundays. Guests can also go for daily tours of the historic RCA Studio B, Nashville’s oldest surviving recording studio, where artists like Elvis Presley, Roy Orbison and Dolly Parton created music. Nashville’s musical identity is as vibrant with up-andcoming artists as it is with legends like Dolly and Elvis. Thornton describes one of her favorite experiences there as walking through the city’s bars and following her ears. “I saw a lot of live music and it was a lot of fun, because you

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LARRY MCCORMACK © AP-WWP/The Tennessean KELLSBORO/Courtesy Flickr

St. Jude Country Music Marathon and 1/2 Marathon, in which runners, walkers and spectators tread the streets of Music City lined with 28 stages, as live bands perform the soundtrack of the day. Nashville’s attractions aren’t all music-related. In addition to restaurants and art galleries, Opry Mills and the Music City Marketplace offer enticing shopping options. The Cheekwood in Bloom festival of Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art celebrates the thousands of tulips that begin to bloom in spring. Visitors can also enjoy the Nashville Fashion Week, East Nashville Beer Festival, Nashville Film Festival, Wild West Comedy Festival, Iroquois Steeplechase and Tennessee Craft Fair, among others, during that time. Located in the beautiful Centennial Park is one of Nashville’s most unusual and striking attractions—a fullscale and meticulously-crafted replica of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece. “The Parthenon is a must-see,” says Thornton. “I’ve been to the real Acropolis in Athens and this replica is what it would look like if it were not in ruins.” “The contrast was really interesting,” she continues. “It’s not the sort of thing you’d expect to see in the middle of southeastern United States, but it’s an amazing sight.” Wherever your explorations of Nashville may take you, Thornton recommends carving out as much listening time as you can, especially in some of the city’s smaller performance spaces. “You may stumble upon an artist that nobody has ever heard of but who’s amazing,” she says. “And in five years, when that singer is a star, you can say that you saw him or her in Nashville, right at the beginning.”

MARK HUMPHREY © AP-WWP

Far right: Visitors at the 22hectare Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art. Below right: An exhibit of glass sculptures by Dale Chihuly at Cheekwood. Below: Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, a honky-tonk in Nashville.

MICHAEL HICKS/Courtesy Flickr

THE PEEP HOLES/Courtesy Wikipedia

MARK HUMPHREY © AP-WWP

Right top: Participants at the St. Jude Country Music Marathon and 1/2 Marathon. Above right: The annual Iroquois Steeplechase is run in spring at Percy Warner Park. Right: The Parthenon at Centennial Park.

H. MICHAEL MILEY /Courtesy Flickr

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

Summer

Go Online

I&M Canal National Heritage Area iandmcanal.org

Canal Corridor Association canalcor.org

LaSalle Canal Boat

www.lasallecanalboat.org

Hegeler Carus Mansion

http://goo.gl/h20tzz

JAMES MILLER

Illinois State Museum Lockport Gallery http://goo.gl/s0sqeR

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Above: Lake Falls waterfall at Matthiessen State Park. Above right: Aux Sable locktenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house on the I&M canal. Above far right: Moe, the mule driver, pulls the LaSalle Canal Boat down the I&M canal.

History Ride By CARRIE LOEWENTHAL MASSEY

I&M Canal National Heritage Area gives a The

ack in 1848, the Illinois and Michigan (I&M) Canal changed the United States forever, by connecting the Illinois River and Lake Michigan, which linked New York to New Orleans for trade purposes. It also set the stage for Chicago to become a thriving metropolis. Today, the canal isn’t a major trade route anymore—the Illinois Waterway replaced it for shipping purposes in 1933. But, since 1984, it is a designated National Heritage Corridor—the first place to earn the title in the United States. It’s also a beautiful, educational and fun place to visit. “In the I&M Canal National Heritage Area, you can connect with Chicago’s natural and

cultural past through [160 kilometers] of 19th century working and rural towns, all linked by scenic canal and river trails, open roads and original and restored prairies,” says Ana B. Koval, president and chief executive officer of the Canal Corridor Association, the nonprofit organization that preserves, protects and creates travel opportunities to the canal area.

Summertime adventures Summertime visitors to the I&M canal corridor must check out the LaSalle Canal Boat, a mule-pulled, 70-passenger replica of an 1840’s canal boat, and the Lock 16 Center, a café and gift shop. The original boats carried people along the

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SUMMER

Photographs by JOE BALYNAS

peek into the Midwest’s past.

JAMES MILLER

“

Numerous state parks, restored

historical sites

and an abundance of

diverse wildlife can all

be discovered on the storied banks of this unique outdoor museum.

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”

canal. On the boat tours, passengers meet “period-dressed guides and a boat captain who regales visitors with exciting tales of canal life,” says Koval. The boat travels 1.5 kilometers up the canal to the Little Vermilion River aqueduct and back to the Lock 16 Center. At the Lock 16 Center, which used to be a horse buggy maker’s home, visitors can sample seasonal cuisine, view exhibits, attend lectures and cultural programs and enjoy afternoon tea. The downtown LaSalle area offers more attractions to visitors who want to linger. These include the Hegeler Carus Mansion, a National Historic Landmark which, at various times, served as home to zinc and chemical manufacturing giants as well as a center for discourse on religion, philosophy and publishing. Outdoorsy travelers can also traverse the I&M Canal State Trail from LaSalle to Rockdale. Part crushed limestone and part paved, the trail is about 100 kilometers long and easy to navigate. It features “breathtaking scenery, including rivers, lakes and sandstone bluffs,” says Koval. The towns along its path offer authentic rural American experiences, complete with quaint downtowns, restaurants and museums. The LaSalle Canal Boat, Lock 16 Center and surrounding area are about a two-hour

Above left: Summertime in the beautiful I&M canal town of Lemont, Illinois. Above: The Gaylord building, which is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places, acts as a gateway to the I&M Canal National Heritage Area. Right: The Hegeler Carus Mansion, which is a National Historic Landmark, served as a center for discourse on religion, philosophy and publishing. Far right: Duffy’s Tavern, an Irish style pub, in the I&M canal town of Utica.

drive from downtown Chicago. Visitors who would prefer to experience the canal closer to Chicago need to drive just 48 kilometers to the city of Lockport, which canal commissioners selected to be their headquarters in 1830. “Visitors to Lockport can still see the influence of that decision today,” says Koval. “The canal, the headquarters, a twoblock-long public landing and the Gaylord and Norton buildings, flanking the public landing, still form the center of the community and offer visitors history, architecture and trails all within easy walking distance of each other.” The Norton building houses the Illinois State Museum Lockport Gallery, while the

Photographs by JOE BALYNAS

Gaylord building has a museum featuring canal exhibits and a restaurant.

Travel and accommodation Visitors need to use a car for a tour of the canal corridor. Rentals and car share options are available in Chicago. Once in the canal area, there are towns and attractions about every 15 kilometers. “You can easily spend a weekend if you want to hike and go to the wineries and brew pubs, go horseback riding, play water sports and visit the towns and their markets. There’s lots of unique shopping,” says Koval. A weekend stay, of course, requires

accommodation, which visitors can find in lodges and cabins along the canal or at motels along the interstate expressway. Koval suggests booking rooms a week or two ahead of time, longer if there are scheduled festivals. “It’s very unique to have this kind of experience just minutes from a large urban area like Chicago,” says Koval. “Numerous state parks, restored historical sites and an abundance of diverse wildlife can all be discovered on the storied banks of this unique outdoor museum.” Carrie Loewenthal Massey is a New York City-based freelance writer.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

DAN /Courtesy Flickr

The River of By JASON CHIANG

Idahoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Salmon River offers an ideal outdoor summer vacation experience for visitors in search of both serenity and exhilaration.

22 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

N No Return

SUMMER

GREG MCREYNOLDS © AP-WWP /The Idaho State Journal

icknamed “The River of No Return,” Idaho’s Salmon River is one of America’s most idyllic and exciting natural wonders. Here, deep inside the walls of one of the largest canyons in North America, flows a seemingly endless river that is nearly untouched by outside civilization. It offers visitors an unforgettable outdoor escape suited for both families and thrill-seekers. The Salmon River winds through about one million hectares of Idaho’s Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness Area, the largest contiguous wilderness in the Lower 48—the continental states of the United States, excluding Alaska. Here, along America’s famed Rocky Mountains, the river flows uninterrupted through the second largest canyon in the entire continent. With mountainous gorge walls towering at over 5000 feet, the Salmon River Canyon is deeper than Arizona’s

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Salmon River is

renowned for a wide variety of water recreation activities, with rafting, inner

tubing, canoeing and kayaking being

PETE ZIMOWSKY © AP-WWP/The Idaho Statesman

Above right: Salmon River is also ideal for visitors who prefer less physicallydemanding activities like boating and fishing. Right: Trails, such as the one around the Seven Devils mountain range between Salmon River and Hells Canyon, are perfect for exploring the area’s wilderness.

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ROGER PHILLIPS © AP-WWP/The Idaho Statesman

the most popular options.

Bureau of Land Management/Courtesy Flickr

Below: The beaches surrounding the Salmon River offer some of the best camping sites in the United States. Right: Rafting on Middle Fork of the Salmon River.

Go Online

Salmon River

idahosalmonriver.org

Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness

ZACHARY COLLIER /Courtesy Flickr

http://goo.gl/WU3h8M

Grand Canyon. In total, the Salmon River stretches over 680 kilometers through Idaho, making it the longest free-flowing river in any single American state. Visitors from all over the world come to experience the rapids and waves of the Salmon River. It is renowned for a wide variety of water recreation activities, with rafting, inner tubing, canoeing and kayaking being the most popular options. Stand-up paddle boarding (or SUP’ing) is one of the popular new activities for adventure seekers, and can be best described as standing upright on a surfboard while navigating the waters with a large hand-held paddle. If you’re looking for something a little less physically demanding, the Salmon River also has many peaceful deepwater pools to splash in, as well as natural hot springs for relaxing. No matter what activity or level of excitement you crave, the river offers both serene floating waters and exhilarating Stage 5 rapids for travelers of all ages and skill levels. Adding to the Salmon River’s idyllic outdoor experience are its immaculate riverside beaches, trails and camping areas. They are the perfect break areas away from the water and another way to explore the River of No Return Wilderness. The sprawling sand beaches surrounding the river offer some of the best camping sites in the United States. Local wildlife like elk, deer, moose, bighorn sheep and mountain goats are found along the various hiking trails that stem from the riverbed. Salmon River is usually accessed through organized travel

groups, led by authorized river outfitter companies. There are over 20 such licensed outfitters who lead groups down the river. During the peak summer months from June to September, only a limited number of excursions are allowed each day. This guarantees the quality of the Salmon River experience, ensuring that the river’s waters and surrounding beach campgrounds do not become overcrowded. Permitted expeditions with an outfitter can last anywhere from one to eight days, depending on the group size, and usually come complete with all necessary camping supplies, water recreation equipment and food. The cost typically ranges from $300 to $400 (approximately Rs. 20,000 to 26,000) per day per person. June and early July usually feature higher water levels on the Salmon River, making them more popular among visitors in search of challenging river conditions. In late July and August, the river’s water level normally drops and it becomes more tranquil, for families and elderly visitors. Salmon River is a thrilling and fascinating complement to the surrounding Rocky Mountains that loom overhead. Its vast and untamed rapids give the river a quality that is truly distinctive amongst America’s natural wonders. With its surprising blend of peaceful scenery and outdoor exploration, the river will undoubtedly inspire you to test your limits for adventure, regardless of age or skill level. Jason Chiang is a freelance writer based in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Santa

Fall for A beautiful fusion of Native American and Spanish cultures, Santa Fe comes alive in the fall season.

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OBBEERRTTO O RRO OSSAALLEESS © © AAPP-W -W WW WPP//TThhee AAllbbuuqquueerrqquuee JJoouurrnnaall RRO W

SUSAN MONTOYA BRYAN © AP-WWP

Right: The tasting room of the Santa Fe Brewing Company. Above far right: A cloudy day in Santa Fe. Far right: A mural on multicultural life in the city. Below: The International Folk Art Market aims to celebrate and preserve living folk art traditions and create economic opportunities for and with folk artists worldwide. Below right: The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is a highlight of the fall season. Most visitors stay at the nearby city of Santa Fe.

santafe.org

Santa Fe Renaissance Fair www.sfrenfair.org

Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta

www.balloonfiesta.com

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

KYLE TAYLOR/C ourtesy Flickr

www.okeeffemuseum.org

JAY GALVIN/C ourtesy Flickr

he first time Bill Walters heard about Santa Fe, New Mexico, was in the Broadway musical, “Rent.” “The characters were singing about how awful their lives in New York were and how they would love to shift to Santa Fe to build a restaurant,” he laughs. “Later, as a student at MIT, I visited Santa Fe for a conference and immediately fell in love with its beauty. Santa Fe, during the fall season, is beautiful.” Zukkim Zong, who visited Santa Fe as a student of Texas Tech University in Lubbock, agrees. “It is a simple car ride of a few hours and most students would plan weekend trips [to the city],” she says. “The best time to visit Santa Fe is between September and November. The weather then is just perfect,” hovering between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius. Santa Fe is, in fact, a perfect weekend getaway. It is the oldest capital city in the United States and the oldest city in New Mexico. The city grew out of Native American pueblo settlements and the adobe houses give it a unique character. Its famed downtown is testimony to its varied history. The autumn, or fall, season in Santa Fe is a time of celebration and many events ensure that the calendars are full. It is the time for Fiestas de Santa Fe, the city’s biggest and one of North America’s oldest civic celebrations of its

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Santa Fe

SEAN WEAVER © AP-WWP/New Mexico Highlands University

LUIS SANCHEZ SATURNO © AP-WWP/The New Mexican

JANE PHILLIPS © AP-WWP/The New Mexican

Left: The burning of Zozobra or the Old Man Gloom marionette marks the beginning of Fiestas de Santa Fe. Below left: A fire dancer rehearses for Zozobra night. Bottom left: New Mexico Highlands University’s rodeo team rides through the Santa Fe fiesta parade. Below: A T’boli weaver from the Philippines demonstrates her craft at the International Folk Art Market. Below center right: A visitor admires “Bella Donna,” a painting by Georgia O’Keeffe, at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Below far right: A visitor samples white wine during the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. Bottom center right: Jewelry sellers at the Palace of the Governors, one of the oldest continuously occupied public buildings in the United States. Bottom far right: The Lodge at Santa Fe offers views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

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kind. It is over 300 years old and features parades and musical performances in different venues. The Santa Fe Renaissance Fair is another popular community event, whose proceeds go toward helping the educational programs of El Rancho de Las Golondrinas, a Spanish outdoor living history museum. It is a very colorful celebration, with dancing and other performances. Autumn is also the time for the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. Albuquerque is about 100 kilometers away and most visitors stay at Santa Fe. “Hot air balloons dot the sky and it’s beautiful to watch,” says Zong. The nine-day festival features balloon races and night flights. Santa Fe is also renowned for Native American jewelry and art. “The artifacts and costume jewelry sold by Native

is an opportunity to enjoy internationally renowned wines and dishes from 75 of Santa Fe’s most popular restaurants and 90 national wineries. “For coffee lovers, there is the Ohari coffee,” says Jayashankar. Santa Fe is a delight to visit all year round, but fall seems to be the favorite with most visitors. “In the fall, you can visit the Santa Fe National Forest,” says Ortiz. “It’s a huge protected national forest in northern New Mexico. In the fall, the aspen trees turning color is a delight.” Ana Lourdes, an avid trekker, recommends the trails in and around Santa Fe. “They are magnificent and very safe,” she says. “I did it all by myself the first time round and had such a great time that later, I came back with a friend.” Visiting Santa Fe doesn’t require elaborate planning. It is easily accessible by car and has an airport. Zong suggests that if you are planning to visit the balloon festival or the Santa Fe fiesta, get to the venue early, “else, finding parking can be a bit of a nightmare.”

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Paromita Pain is a journalist based in Austin, Texas.

Photographs by SUSAN MONTOYA BRYAN © AP-WWP

American women micro entrepreneurs in the downtown area are collectibles,” says Priyanka Jayashankar, adjunct assistant professor of management at Iowa State University. In addition, the Santa Fe Indian Market, held in August every year, and farmers markets, held from April through December, are good places to buy fine art and crafts. Santa Fe has a museum dedicated to artist Georgia O’Keeffe. It features a collection of over 3,000 works and also showcases combined exhibitions of her work with works by her American Modernist contemporaries. The city is a haven for foodies. “Indian vegetarians who love spicy food, like me, will love the cuisine,” says Jayashankar. Mónica Ortiz Uribe, senior field correspondent with news website Fronteras Desk, agrees. “My favorite is the Clafoutis French Bakery & Restaurant,” she says. A must-try restaurant is Maria’s New Mexico Kitchen, a Santa Fe landmark that has been serving authentic New Mexican dishes since 1952. For wine aficionados, the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, held in September at the Santa Fe Opera,

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Experience the ultimate American autumn in

Litchfield Hills.

Golden Hills By ANNE WALLS

Courtesy discovernewengland.org

ach autumn, colorful foliage draws countless tourists to Litchfield Hills, Connecticut. But that’s not all this charming region, tucked away in the Berkshire Mountains, has to offer. Visitors can relax in sumptuous inns offering stunning views, shop for antiques and explore the area’s quaint New England towns. For those in search of outdoor adventures, there are many trails for hiking and lakes for canoeing and fishing. So next fall, take a trip and fall under Litchfield Hills’ spell. From the beginning of September through late October, Litchfield Hills’ rolling farmlands and river valleys come alive with the harvest. The prime fall, or autumn, foliage season comes to full bloom during the first three weeks of October, when the rustic countryside and colonial villages transform into a palette of vibrant colors. Litchfield, the largest town in the area, boasts of boutiques, upscale

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eateries and stately homes that architecture fans won’t want to miss. Imagine white Colonial and Greek Revival homes peppering tree-lined streets. Also, Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of “Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” was born and raised in Litchfield. Washington and Norfolk—considered to be among the bestpreserved towns in the Northeast—provide a glimpse of what village life was like in New England centuries ago. Litchfield Hills offers the ultimate indulgence for antique aficionados—every town in the area has antique shops. The towns of Kent and New Preston draw avid antiquarians, but Kent is best known for its high concentration of art galleries, some nationally renowned. The Schaghticoke Indian Reservation is also located there; the tribe helped pass messages for the U.S. Army during the Revolutionary War. But Woodbury is considered to be the epicenter of vintage treasures. Local zoning

Above: The vivid fall foliage around the picturesque Lake Waramaug in Litchfield County. Visitors can access the lake through the Lake Waramaug State Park.

Harriet Beecher Stowe

www.harrietbeecherstowecenter.org

Appalachian National Scenic Trail

www.nps.gov/appa

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Litchfield Hills

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Dennis Hill State Park

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laws allow houses to be used for commercial purposes in Woodbury. So, many antique dealers have set up shop in the 17th and 18th century homes on the Main Street. Litchfield Hills covers nearly one-third of Connecticut and is surrounded by several state parks, forests and reserves for nature lovers to explore. In addition, the Housatonic and the Farmington rivers, which attract anglers and canoeing enthusiasts, and Connecticut’s three largest natural lakes—Waramaug, Bantam and Twin—are all in the area. Also in the region are Bear Mountain, Connecticut’s highest mountain summit at 2,316 feet, and kilometers of the legendary Appalachian National Scenic Trail, which runs near the western border from Kent to Salisbury. The trail is recommended for hiking from May to October and offers spectacular views of the Housatonic River Valley and the Taconic Range. One section of the trail, near Falls Village, has wheelchair access too. The hike is mostly moderate, with shorter steep and fairly Below: Kent Falls State Park, located in the Litchfield Hills. Below right: Woodbury is renowned for its antique stores like Monique Shay Antiques and Design, one of the town’s oldest dealers. Bottom: Mount Tom State Park, one of the oldest parks in the state park system, is ideal for boating and fishing. Bottom right: Vibrant fall foliage in Cornwall.

challenging sections. For a truly unforgettable 360-degree panorama, which is especially beautiful in early autumn, try the 1.6-kilometer uphill climb of Dennis Hill State Park in Norfolk. After a day of trailblazing, rowing or shopping, Litchfield Hills’ diverse dining scene is sure to satiate your hunger. Everything, from Community Table’s sustainably sourced and local cuisine to The Cookhouse’s “slo-smokin’ ” barbecue, is available here. Don’t miss out on the two eateries regarded as institutions in Litchfield: West Street Grill, which caters to the fashion-conscious crowd with its art-filled walls and modern American dishes, and The Village, a pub-style restaurant that is popular among both locals and tourists. If you’re in need of a spot of tea, visit Chaiwalla Tea Room in Salisbury, whose sweet and savory treats and teas from India and China are heavenly. When it comes to lodging, Litchfield Hills has many options. If it’s elegance steeped in history you’re after, then look no further than Rock Hall Luxe Lodging, just outside Norfolk. This award-winning, luxurious 23-acre estate was designed by architect Addison Mizner circa 1912 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Guests can wander around the pristine grounds full of orchids and walking trails, visit the fitness and billiard rooms or take advantage of the inn’s pool, hot tub and tennis court. There’s a reason why Litchfield Hills has captured the hearts of countless visitors: its historical charm and spellbinding fall foliage produce peace and stimulation that make for the perfect autumn vacation.

Photographs by KINDRA CLINEFF

Anne Walls is a writer and filmmaker based in Los Angeles, California.

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Citrus County

Courtesy VisitCitrus.com

is an ideal winter vacation destination for nature lovers, especially those seeking the extraordinary experience of swimming with the manatees. oos and aquariums abound in the United States. But just one place is famous for letting visitors get up close and personal with the gentle giant of the sea—the manatee, which is believed to have inspired sailors’ stories of mermaid sightings in centuries past. And this place is Citrus County, located on Florida’s west coast, an easy drive west of Orlando. Temperatures in the winter months in Citrus County range from 20 degrees Celsius to 25 degrees Celsius, making it a perfect destination for that time of the year. Manatees, also known as sea cows, flock to

Swimming

Gentle Giants By CANDICE YACONO

WINTER

with the

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Photographs courtesy VisitCitrus.com

the region’s warm rivers from the sea in the winter. Hundreds of them gather in the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge from November to March. This is believed to be the largest herd of manatees in the entire hemisphere. Up to 13 feet long and believed to be related to elephants, manatees can live up to 60 years, much of which they spend sleeping. Many researchers believe them to be as intelligent as dolphins, and they seem to genuinely enjoy spending time with human visitors. “Swimming with the manatee is definitely a bucket list item for any outdoor enthusiast,” says Adam Thomas, director of Citrus County Visitors and Convention Bureau. “It’s a sense of purity, love and understanding between you and a mammal weighing in at [725 to 1360 kilograms]. These playful, curious giants make the experience of being in the water memorable for people of all ages.”

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Many protected areas in Citrus County showcase the creatures, along with a wide variety of flora and fauna. “The diversity of outdoor experiences includes wildlife viewing, especially close encounters with the famous manatee and other tropical species, hiking, biking, fishing, diving and exploring the area’s archaeology,” says Thomas. Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park is a Florida state park that showcases native Florida wildlife, including manatees, black bears, bobcats, white-tailed deer, alligators, the American crocodile and river otters. “The 210-acre park encompasses some of Florida’s loveliest landscape,” says Thomas. Birdwatching is another extremely popular activity in Citrus County, where places like the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge allow a population of more than 250 species of birds to flourish. In particular, the region is known for a large concentration of red-cockaded woodpeckers and a migratory

Top: A National Historic Landmark, the Crystal River Archaeological Site is a pre-Columbian, Native American site that has burial mounds, temple and platform mounds, a plaza area and a substantial midden. Above: Visitors to Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park can go for boat tours to observe native Florida wildlife. Above left: Citrus County is ideal for activities like horseback riding and cycling on the sandy trails through state forests and grassy trails along semi-rural paved paths. Above far left: The Old Courthouse Heritage Museum, housed in the historic Old Courthouse, showcases exhibits on Citrus County’s history, its pioneer days and recent developments. Above right: Visitors can rent a boat, canoe or kayak on the Chassahowitzka River to enjoy the scenery and wildlife.

Citrus County visitcitrus.com

on the wraparound porch to experience the slow-paced lifestyle and famed hospitality of the South. At the McLeod House Bistro, diners enter a 100-year-old home surrounded by equallyold giant oak trees. Here, they are treated to the creations of a classically European trained chef who uses locally-sourced fresh produce and home-grown herbs. Outdoor and sporting activities like golfing are available the year round, thanks to the temperate climate. And if the idea of swimming with manatees leaves you feeling squeamish, fear not. To get a sense of how these creatures behave and interact, without ever leaving your home, visit manateecam.org. You can view the feed from a live webcam from Citrus County and experience, albeit virtually, the joys of Citrus County in winters.

www.fws.gov/refuge/ crystal_river

Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park http://goo.gl/CYCSjU

Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge www.fws.gov/ chassahowitzka

Candice Yacono is a magazine and newspaper writer based in southern California.

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flock of whooping cranes. With over 12,500 hectares of saltwater bays, brackish marshes and estuaries, the Chassahowitzka wildlife refuge is also home to more than 50 types of reptiles and amphibians and more than 25 species of mammals like the manatee. For those more interested in cultural activities, Citrus County offers a thriving art scene, educational programs for all ages and several specialty boutiques and famous restaurants. From Vintage on 5th in Crystal River to McLeod House Bistro in Inverness, you can find tasty delicacies that make your dining experience extra special, says Thomas. Vintage on 5th is a renovated 1940 church located in the historic downtown core of Crystal River. The restaurant prides itself on using fresh, locally grown or caught ingredients, which are used to create Southern classics like shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes and fresh fish dishes. Ask for a seat

Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge

The White Mountains are an ideal winter destination for exciting snow activities.

The Peak of By JASON CHIANG

White Mountains

White Mountains National Forest

www.fs.usda.gov/ whitemountain

Santa’s Village

www.santasvillage.com

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www.visitwhite mountains.com

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WINTER

Above right: A detailed section of the White Mountains (top) and Lake Winnipesaukee on a restored relief map at the University of New Hampshire. The 12-by-16foot wood and plaster map was created in the late 1800’s by Charles Hitchcock, one of New Hampshire’s first state geologists. Right: The Kancamagus Highway is a scenic drive through the White Mountains. Below right: A thrill-seeker bounces off his inflatable sled while riding down a slope on Tuckerman Ravine on Mount Washington, the highest peak of the White Mountains.

W Winter

intertime evokes images of stunning snow-capped mountaintops, with festive sentiments filling travelers’ minds as they seek an outdoor escape. For these and more, look no further than New Hampshire’s White Mountains, the largest and most rugged mountain range in the New England area of the United States. The White Mountains are very popular among tourists and include 48 stunning peaks that are over 4,000 feet tall. This section of the Appalachian Mountains is known for the region’s very best snow recreation activities, including skiing, ice climbing, snowmobiling, tubing, dog sledding and zip lining. The White Mountain National

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38 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 ABIGAIL BATCHELDER/Courtesy Flickr

Mountains’ highest peak, Mount Washington, is considered one of New Hampshire’s premier year-round vacation areas. For more rugged and adventurous travelers, there is a unique group of alpine huts, owned and operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club for over 125 years. Modeled after the classic huts found in the Swiss Alps, the network of eight huts appears along a 90-kilometer stretch of the Appalachian Trail in the White Mountains. They offer lodging, meals and supplies to passing backpackers. Hikers can reserve bunks at the huts. The smaller huts accommodate around 30 people while the bigger huts can hold up to 90 people. The huts are typically 10 to12 kilometers apart, and it is common for hikers to travel from hut to hut while traversing the famous trail. Whether you stay in a breathtaking mountain resort or a rustic communal hut, the festive atmosphere, cultural richness and scenic beauty of the White Mountains in winter will give you a story to pass along. The White Mountains provide many “peak” experiences that embody the very essence of the winter season. Jason Chiang is a freelance writer based in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.

Forest spans over 300,000 hectares across New Hampshire, and welcomes over six million visitors annually. The area is especially popular with skiers and snowmobile riders. There are 10 major downhill ski mountains, over a dozen touring centers and a statewide snowmobile trail network that sprawls over 640 kilometers. Cross-country skiers and snowshoe enthusiasts will find beautiful stretches of alpine terrain, pristine snow-covered trees, frozen lakes and epic mountaintop views along the way. The White Mountains also offer many unique attractions to delight families looking for a taste of seasonal pageantry. One such destination is Santa’s Village, a winter-themed amusement park that features rides, shows, games, elves, reindeer and, of course, Santa Claus. With fun rides such as “Little Elf Flying School,” “Reindeer Carousel” and “The Chimney Drop,” Santa’s Village offers family-friendly entertainment that aims to bring out the joyous spirit of the winter season in all. For accommodation, most visitors opt for one of the many four-season ski resorts throughout the White Mountains. The Attitash Mountain Resort, located near the White

Left: Santa’s Village, a winter-themed amusement park, is one of the highlights of the White Mountains. Far left: The region is known for its snow recreation activities like dog sledding and skiing. Below: Mount Washington Hotel. Below right: Climbers make their way up Mount Adams, the second highest peak after Mount Washington. Bottom right: White Mountain Central Railroad, located within the grounds of Clark’s Trading Post, has an impressive collection of steam locomotives.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

Good Ol’ West By STEVE FOX

Cowboys, open ranges and U.S. history are on display in scenic Carbon County all through the year.

Courtesy Carbon County Visitors Council

he wide open spaces and friendly folks of the American West still exist, tucked away between two rugged mountain ranges, in the sparsely-populated Carbon County, Wyoming. Rodeos, cowboy poetry contests, historical sites, museums, a dinosaur graveyard, scenic drives, camping, hiking, fishing, mountain biking, golfing, skiing, snowmobiling, rivers and natural hot springs—this four-season destination has something for everyone. The county takes its name from its extensive coal deposits, which later fueled locomotives of the Union Pacific Railroad. The area was traversed by many well-known Native

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American tribes, including the Shoshone, Cheyenne and Lakota (Sioux). Trappers and traders came in search of beaver pelts that were transformed into top hats worn by European aristocracy. The granite mountains also attracted Western notables like Kit Carson, “Buffalo Bill” Cody and Butch Cassidy, whose train-robbing exploits became fodder for Paul Newman and Robert Redford in the film “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.” Pioneers in covered wagons passed through Wyoming on their way to the rich farmland of Oregon and gold fields of California, and many liked what they saw.

Union Pacific Railroad www.up.com

Upper North Platte Ranch Rodeo

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Carbon County

www.carbonwy.com

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for activities like boating and fishing. Bottom center: The North Platte River is about 1,152 kilometers long, counting its many curves. Bottom right: A rodeo announcer walks with a rodeo clown contestant during a Kids’ Campus event at the Carbon County Fair in Rawlins. Children, up to age 12, dress up as rodeo clowns or professional bullfighters.

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ALL SEASONS

LINDA RUSSELL/Courtesy Carbon County Visitors Council

ELIZABETH WOOD/Courtesy Carbon County Visitors Council

Above: The beautiful wide open spaces add to the charm of Carbon County. Below: A horse trainer soothes a new charge inside his compound in Rawlins. Below right: A driver and his horses race to the finish line during the annual Don E. Erickson Memorial Chariot Races in Saratoga. Bottom left: Summer in Carbon County is ideal

NICHOLAS FINER/Courtesy Carbon County Visitors Council

Photographs by J. STEPHEN CONN/ Courtesy Flickr

JASPERDO/Courtesy Flickr

“Almost all of the major overland trails— the Oregon Trail, the Cherokee Trail—went through Wyoming because there were relatively easy passes through the [Rocky] mountains,” explains “Cowboy” Bill Wadsworth, who first settled in Carbon County in the 1950’s and is an expert on the area. “And, some of those people who were heading west looked around and said, ‘We don’t have to go any further. We’ve found what we were looking for.’ ” “It’s just a gorgeous county, full of natural wonders and very representative of the history of the Old West,” says Wadsworth. “We get a lot of people from overseas, and almost to an individual they think it’s great. The open range just befuddles them; they remark that they’ve never seen so much space. You live here, it’s maybe [30 kilometers] to the nearest town and your closest neighbor might be [25 kilometers] away.” Today’s Carbon County retains its Old West heritage, exemplified by the many rodeos that take place during the summer. One of the biggest, featuring real-life cowboys competing in five different events like bronc riding, is the Upper North Platte Ranch Rodeo. It takes place in Encampment in late July, as part of the Working Ranch Cowboy Association circuit. Contestants must prove that they are “working cowboys” through payroll documents, explains the rodeo’s chair

Top: Carbon County is home to a wide variety of wild game species. Above center: Union Pacific Railroad donated the caboose, a freight-train car, to Carbon County Tourist Center in June 1989.

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Above and right: The Mormon Handcart Visitors’ Center hosts exhibits on the journey of Martin and Willie Handcart companies, providing a glimpse into Mormon history.

Nick Wamsley of the Silver Spur Ranches, one of the largest commercial cattle operations in the United States, with a heritage dating back to the 1800’s. “There are cash prizes for the top three teams, as well as for the top horse and top hand [cowboy],” says Wamsley. If you win one of these rodeos, it qualifies you to compete for the world title in Amarillo [Texas].” Although it gets quite cold in the winter, Carbon County is an all-season destination, says Elizabeth Hunt, executive director of the Rawlins-Carbon County Chamber of Commerce. “In the winter, we have skiing and snowmobiling in the mountains; the springtime brings fabulous trout fishing and beautiful wildflowers; the summer offers so many activities—rodeos, hiking, golf, concerts, barbecues, our rivers and hot springs; and the fall is hunting season and, of course, the beautiful fall foliage,” says Hunt. “A lot of our visitors are attracted by our history. When you drive up over a bluff, see the beautiful vistas and wide open spaces and think back about the pioneers, you wonder how they ever got across this area. A lot of international visitors, in particular, are amazed at how big it is.” Wide open spaces, sparse population— about 16,000 residents—and an enduring commitment to the values of the Old West

JEFFREY BEALL/Courtesy Flickr PETE/Courtesy Flickr

Steve Fox is a freelance writer, former newspaper publisher and reporter based in Ventura, California.

Top: The Fossil Cabin, listed in the National Register of Historic Places, was constructed in 1932 using 5,796 dinosaur bones. The bones, belonging to a variety of species, were mined from the nearby Como Bluff, one of the richest dinosaur fossil beds in the world. Above: Lake Marie, part of the Medicine Bow Peak Trail. Left: The rebuilt Fort Seminoe, near Martin’s Cove, was the 1852-1855 Oregon Trail trading post. Left: The Union Pacific Railroad Depot, built at the end of the 19th century, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. JASPERDO/Courtesy Flickr

are all part of Carbon County’s appeal, says Wadsworth. “Sure we have traffic jams, spring and fall, when we’re running 300 heads of cattle down the highway,” he says. “We don’t do everything on horses. But when you have to get out and round up the cows, that just won’t work on a four-wheeler. Many of the practices of the Old West are still the best way to do things. We go out of our way to hang on to the old ways of living—help your neighbors and don’t get in anybody’s face.” Carbon County is a five-hour drive from Denver, Colorado, which is easily accessible by air from the East and West Coasts. Six hours further, you reach Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as America’s first national park and home to geothermal features that includes the famous Old Faithful geyser. Carbon County has a wide range of accommodation options, including historic hotels with Old West decor, charming bed-and-breakfasts and convenient chain motels. Lodging rates average around $130, approximately Rs. 8,500, a night during summer and about $100, approximately Rs. 6,500, in all other seasons.

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Registered under RNI-6586/60

JAR ()/Courtesy Flickr JOHN HART ÂŠ AP-WWP/ Wisconsin State Journal

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