SPAN Sept/Oct 2018

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 Rs. 20

Bay of Dreams Volcanic Vacations Desert Paradise

Gateways U.S. National Parks

Natural Diversity

Protecting the Parks

By CARRIE LOEWENTHAL MASSEY

National Park Service preserves hundreds of natural and historical wonders of the United States for generations to come.

Photographs by National Park Service

The

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JACOB W. FRANK /National Park Service

ore than 75,000 archaeological sites.

Nearly 27,000 prehistoric and historic landmarks. The longest cave system known in the world. More than 29,000 kilometers of trails. At least 247 species of threatened or endangered plants and animals. The world’s largest carnivore, the Alaskan brown bear, and the largest living things, Giant Sequoia trees.

The United States’ 417 national parks

contain all of the above and much more across their 34 million hectares.

They not only reveal natural wonders, but also commemorate the country’s history. They tell the stories of the fight for civil rights in the United States through César E. Chávez National Monument in California and Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site in Arkansas, for example; the first Transcontinental

September/October 2018

V O LU M E L I X N U M B E R 5

CONTENTS

2



Protecting the Parks

25



Tales of Trees

8



Guides to Nature

28



Volcanic Vacation

12



Learning From Nature

31



Desert Paradise

14



Exchanging Experiences

34



A Microcosm of Planet Earth

16



Bay of Dreams

38



Catching the Wind in Caves

41



Land of Extremes

20

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Mazes, Needles and an Island in the Sky

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SATHISH J/Courtesy Flickr DEAN_FIKAR/iStock/Thinkstock

Below: The scenic Going-to-the-Sun Road, a popular area among visitors to Glacier National Park in Montana.

Far left: Balclutha, a square-rigger built in 1886, at Hyde Street Pier in San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park, California.

The park is home to a fleet of historic ships, a maritime museum and more.

Left: A National Park Service ranger talks to visitors about fire prevention and safety in the Ash Mountain area of Sequoia National Park in California.

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Courtesy National Park Service

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Editor in Chief Conrad W. Turner

Reviewing Editor Karl M. Adam

Editor Deepanjali Kakati Associate Editor Suparna Mukherji Hindi Editor Giriraj Agarwal Urdu Editor Syed Sulaiman Akhtar Copy Editors Bhawya Joshi, Shah Md. Tahsin Usmani

Art Director/ Production Chief Hemant Bhatnagar Deputy Art Directors / Production Assistants Qasim Raza, Shah Faisal Khan Editorial Assistant Justina Bosco

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Front cover: Photographers capture the Milky Way at North Window in Arches National Park, Utah.

Photograph by Jacob W. Frank/National Park Service  Articles with a star may be reprinted with permission.

Those without a star are copyrighted and may not be reprinted.Contact SPAN at 011-23472135 or editorspan@state.gov

Printed and published by Jeffrey R. Sexton on behalf of the Government of the United States of America and printed at Thomson Press India Ltd., 18/35 Delhi Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana 121007 and published at the Public Affairs Section, American Embassy, American Center, 24 K.G. Marg, New Delhi 110001.

Opinions expressed in this 44-page magazine do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of the U.S. Government.

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National Park Service

Courtesy U.S. Navy ANDREW KUHN/National Park Service

Railroad through Golden Spike National Historic Site in Utah; and the nation’s founding history at Independence National Historic Park in Pennsylvania, among other important events.

To ensure access to these marvels and their preservation, the United States has the National Park Service.

The past It all started with the establishment of Yellowstone National Park by the U.S. Congress in 1872, “as a public park or pleasuring-ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” It was placed under the control of the Secretary of the U.S. Department of the Interior.

In the following years, the United States went on to authorize more national parks and monuments. These, too, were administered by the Department of the

Interior, while other monuments and natural and historical areas were administered by the War Department and the Forest Service of the Department of Agriculture. No single agency provided unified management of the federal parklands.

On August 25, 1916, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Organic Act and created the National Park Service. The law mandated that it would “conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife” in these protected spaces, while also providing for the enjoyment of park visitors and ensuring those visitors leave the parks “unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” The service was a new federal bureau in the Department of the Interior.

Parks expanded in number and type as the years progressed, and with their expansion came more responsibility for the National

The efforts of the National Park Service extend beyond park borders to American communities.

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Top left: People watch an air show by the U.S. Navy Blue Angels at Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine in Maryland.

Top: A cruise ship approaches Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in Alaska. Most visitors to Glacier Bay spend a day on cruise ships to enjoy the scenery and wildlife.

Above left: A park ranger leads visitors through a narrow ledge in the Fiery Furnace at Arches National Park in Utah. The park is known for its red rocks and over 2,000 natural stone arches.

Above: A mural titled, “Kenai Fjords National Park: Where Mountains, Ice, and Ocean Meet,” unveiled at the National Park Service Centennial Celebration and Mural Dedication, organized at the park in Alaska in 2016.

BRETT SEYMOUR/National Park Service

National Park Service www.nps.gov

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A diver in kelp forests in Channel Islands National Park, California. The park encompasses five islands and their ocean environment, preserving natural resources and supporting a variety of plant and animal species.

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Park Service. In the 1930’s, military parks and national monuments joined the register of national parks. Then, in the late 1960’s and 1970’s, came national parkways, seashores and urban parks. In 1980, Alaska’s national monuments, totaling over 19 million hectares, were added to the National Park System, nearly doubling its size.

The present The National Park System now includes 417 national parks, 150 related areas and numerous programs that assist in conserving the nation’s cultural and natural heritage.

The National Park Service helps administer the National Register of Historic Places, National Heritage Areas, the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Program, National Historic Landmarks Program, and National Scenic Trails. The enacted budget for fiscal year 2018 was $3.2 billion (Rs. 22,000 crores approximately). It currently

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employs more than 22,000 permanent, temporary and seasonal workers. More than 339,000 Volunteers-In-Parks also donate about eight million hours of time annually to support its efforts. In 2017, this team made it possible for nearly 331 million people to visit U.S. national parks.

The efforts of the National Park Service extend beyond park borders to American communities. It helps build trails and playgrounds, make available more affordable housing, protect watersheds, promote local history, return historic buildings to use, bring new life to neighborhoods and create stewardship opportunities for young people.

The National Park Service ensures that visitors get a firsthand experience of nature and natural and social histories of the United States. As American author Wallace Stegner described the National Park Service in 1983: “National parks are the best idea we ever had. Absolutely American, absolutely democratic, they reflect us at our best rather than our worst.”

Carrie Loewenthal Massey is a New York City-based freelance writer.

Above: The shore at Gateway National Recreation Area’s Sandy Hook Unit in Monmouth County, New Jersey. Gateway preserves nearly 11,000 hectares of land and sea across New York and New Jersey, and three New York City boroughs.

Top left: Two Medicine Valley, a great place to view the sunrise in Glacier National Park, Montana. Known for its snowcapped mountains and diverse wildlife, the park is a hiker’s paradise.

Above left: Clean water and a wide variety of underwater habitats make for excellent fishing opportunities at the Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway in Wisconsin and Minnesota.

JACOB W. FRANK/National Park Service

Photographs courtesy National Park Service

Volunteer-iin-P Park Stan Kosinski/National Park Service

Below far left: The library at Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site in New York, part of the boyhood home of the first U.S. president to be born in New York City.

Below left: The Superintendent’s Lodge at Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, Montana, built in 1894. The two-story stone structure is one of the first permanent dwellings in eastern Montana.

Bottom: The Holly Group, one of the outlying units of Hovenweep National Monument in Colorado and Utah. Hovenweep was once home to over 2,500 people and now includes six prehistoric villages built between A.D. 1200 and 1300.

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Guides to Nature

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By MICHAEL GALLANT

Tennessee, and the stunning geysers of Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming to the majestic portraits of past presidents carved into stone at Mount Rushmore in South Dakota. Unique and beautiful, each of these parks is maintained, preserved and patrolled by its own team of expert park rangers.

The rangers, who can often be instantly recognized by their earth-tone uniforms and hats, fulfill a wide variety of roles at national parks. They serve as law enforcement officers, environmental experts, historians or a combination of the three. Many of them also focus their efforts on providing park-specific information to visitors, whether that means answering questions about weather advisories

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hat do all U.S. national parks have in common? Natural beauty and rich heritage, of course, as well as a welcoming spirit for travelers who come from around the world.

Perhaps less obvious, though, is the nationwide network of dedicated park rangers, who guarantee that all the state and national parks in the United States stay in pristine condition, and that visitors of all ages have an amazing time experiencing them.

According to the National Park Foundation, there are 417 national parks across the United States, ranging from the desert beauty of Canyonlands National Park in Utah to the lush mountains of Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina and

What is a Park Ranger? https://goo.gl/WTjLcK

Ranger programs at Yellowstone National Park https://goo.gl/CzUuZu

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From Florida to Alaska,

park rangers

Courtesy National Park Service

help visitors enjoy the amazing U.S. national parks.

A park ranger conducts a guided tour along the Carver Trail at the George Washington Carver National Monument in Missouri.

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KRISTI RUGG/National Park Service Photographs courtesy National Park Service

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Above left: A park ranger interacts with a visitor at Acadia National Park in Maine.

Above: A ranger helps students explore the inside of a mission church at Tumacácori National Historical Park in Arizona.

Left: A ranger with young visitors at the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River.

Below left: A ranger

dressed in period clothing for the Canal Day celebration at the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River.

Bottom left: Betty Reid Soskin (right), the oldest serving park ranger with the National Park Service, takes visitors around the Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park in California.

and hiking directions or providing information on local wildlife, plants and trees. They often lead guided tours of natural and historic sites, and conduct presentations, demonstrations and even reenactments of historical events.

At Yellowstone National Park, for example, park rangers conduct a range of programs, including the Young Scientist Investigation. Visitors explore the park’s Upper Geyser Basin with rangers and learn about the science behind geysers like the worldfamous Old Faithful, volcanoes and more. Similarly, travelers to Florida’s Everglades National Park can join park rangers and learn how to cast nets and catch saltwater fish off the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, or explore the picturesque Ten Thousand Islands in a canoe. Daniel Agudelo, a 24-year-old ranger at the park, became interested in the job due to his love for the outdoors and teaching. To him, the most important roles that park rangers play are to serve as a bridge between a park and an explorer, enhance visitors’ experiences and teach them new things. And, that’s just the beginning.

Beyond these fun, educational programs, park rangers’ key duties include protecting visitors. A portion of them, called law enforcement rangers, go through rigorous training before becoming official federal officers. They make sure that both local and

Courtesy National Park Service

Agudelo, “is someone who sees a silly question not as a bother, but as a blessing and an opportunity to interact.” He sees visitors who are inspired with new knowledge as de facto ambassadors— “rangers” in their own right—who will then educate others about their amazing experiences in national parks.

For Agudelo, working with the National Park Service is a true calling. “How long do I expect to continue as a ranger? Until I am kicked out!” he jokes. “Seriously, I really support the National Park Service’s mission and see myself rising up in the ranks. I want to grow old with this park, and this agency.”

Above: A park ranger informs visitors about prescribed fire at Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks in California. Carefullycontrolled burns can help forests thrive as well as avoid uncontrolled and destructive forest fires.

Below: A few national park sites, like the historic Keys Ranch in Joshua Tree National Park, can be visited only on a ranger-guided tour.

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

KURT MOSES/National Park Service

national laws are followed within national parks, and respond immediately to crimes or incidents within park borders.

While park rangers work hard to establish U.S. national parks as safe places for learning, relaxation and adventure for visitors, accidents can happen. Luckily, they are equipped to respond to nearly any problem that might occur.

Many of them have special expertise in wilderness emergency medicine and can help visitors with issues ranging from scrapes and bruises to animal bites, broken bones and heart attacks. Highly-trained park rangers direct and execute emergency search and rescue missions in situations where explorers get lost or injured. They are also trained to spot fires, which can often be a serious threat in national parks, and help deal with them quickly and effectively.

Park rangers come from a wide variety of geographic, educational, cultural and professional backgrounds, but have a few important things in common: A love for the outdoors and a desire to share and inspire through the wonders of U.S. national parks.

Take for instance Betty Reid Soskin, who works at the Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park in Richmond, California. At age 96, she is the oldest serving park ranger with the National Park Service in the country. She proudly wears her ranger uniform on and off the job, “because when I’m on the streets or on an escalator or elevator, I am making every little girl of color aware of a career choice she may not have known she had,” she said in an interview to the U.S. Department of the Interior in 2015.

“What makes a great ranger,” says

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Vaibhav Chakraborty talks

SUSIs alumnus

Vaibhav Chakraborty, a political science student from New Delhi, participated in the Study of the U.S. Institutes (SUSIs) for Student Leaders program on Environmental Issues at the University of Montana in 2016. During his fellowship, Chakraborty visited Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park. The visits, he says, were a great learning experience for him.

Excerpts from an interview.

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Photographs courtesy Vaibhav Chakraborty

about his experience of visiting Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park during his exchange trip to the United States.

https://goo.gl/RXvwT1

Glacier National Park

By RANJITA BISWAS

www.nps.gov/glac

Yellowstone National Park www.nps.gov/yell

The exchange visit was your first trip abroad. How was your experience of interacting with student leaders from other parts of the world?

I was pretty excited. From the 19 other student leaders from different parts of the world to the staff at the University of Montana, we were like a family— taking classes, hiking, going out for meals together, etc. Initially, communication was a bit difficult because we all came from non-Englishspeaking countries and had to adjust to a different accent. But, we soon overcame that barrier.

Even though we sometimes had differences of opinion, we would try to find ways through discussions on how to bring in the changes that we wished to see in our respective countries.

You visited Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park during this exchange program. Could you please tell us about your experiences?

Glacier National Park, often called the “Crown of the Continent,” was my first experience of visiting a national park. It is truly majestic. From hiking to the snowcapped mountains and occasionally being greeted by mountain goats, to

finally sitting at the edge of a mountain and capturing the view, it was an unforgettable experience.

Words fail to describe the beauty of Yellowstone National Park, the first national park in the world. The gushing geysers, alpine rivers and the lush green surroundings make Yellowstone a place for fantasies. I still remember the breathtaking sight of the giant full moon reflecting on a river, us singing aloud next to a bonfire and cooking dinner.

However, climate change has caught up with both these national parks. At Glacier National Park, snow sheets are melting at a brisk rate. And by 2050, we were told, there would hardly be any part of the glacier left. Scientists are keeping a watch on Yellowstone, as the volcano lying in the interiors of the park could erupt, causing large-scale destruction.

What are your main areas of interest in environmental protection?

Deforestation is a major concern, with the world’s forest cover depleting at a brisk rate since the turn of the 20th century. Forests play a major role in the sustenance of the ecology. If we ignore the ecosystem in the name of development, we are doomed. It’s crucial to recreate the bond with nature.

Above left: Vaibhav Chakraborty at Glacier National Park (far left) in Montana.

Center left: Chakraborty also visited Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, known for its colorful hot springs and geysers.

Left: Chakraborty (right) enjoys music with a fellow participant of the exchange program in the United States.

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Study of the U.S. Institutes

You are a student of political science and like to work with the underprivileged sections of the society. How does your involvement in environmental issues interrelate with your line of study?

Political science gives in-depth knowledge of the functioning of different forms of government, policymaking and, most importantly, the role of citizens in the functioning of the government. I believe that every citizen has the right to live a decent life without the hindrance of poverty. We are a part of the ecosystem, but we have caused great damage to the environment, which also affects the weaker sections of the society.

Studying political science helps me to understand the ways in which state institutions, along with the citizens, can help overcome environmental issues, while empowering the underprivileged sections of the society.

What are your biggest takeaways from the exchange program in the United States?

I learned a lot during the five weeks of my stay while traveling to Montana, Texas and Washington, D.C., in the company of some of the best mentors and professors I have ever worked with.

Among my key takeaways are: Being able to look at the world from a different perspective, appreciating different cultural milieus and bringing my views forward in the right way.

We came as 20 different individuals, but we left with thousands of memories and friendships that we’ll cherish for years to come.

Ranjita Biswas is a Kolkata-based journalist. She also translates fiction and writes short stories.

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Wildlife and its conservation have always been a passion for Samir Sinha, a member of the Indian Forest Service (IFS) who serves as the additional principal chief conservator of forests, Uttarakhand, and chief executive officer of Uttarakhand CAMPA (Compensatory Afforestation Fund Management and Planning Authority).

Sinha was the director of Corbett Tiger Reserve in Uttarakhand from 2013 to 2016. He visited Colorado State University in Fort Collins as part of the 2013 Fulbright-N Nehru Environmental Leadership Program, administered by the United States-IIndia Educational Foundation (USIEF).

Excerpts from an interview.

Please tell us about your project at Colorado State University.

Illegal wildlife trade is globally acknowledged as a form of transnational organized crime. Over the past years, this has become more widespread, presenting a serious threat to biodiversity across the globe. While the direct threat of loss of endangered species is somewhat acknowledged today, what are less known are the economic, social and public health impacts of such illegal trade, which may introduce harmful, alien species that could disrupt the ecosystem. Illegal wildlife trade can also facilitate the entry and spread of animal-borne diseases.

My study looked at policy and legal instruments related to regulation of wildlife trade and their implementation at the ground level. I also looked at the various experiences in the United States regarding the implementation of CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) and what we could learn from them to improve our responses to the growing challenge of illicit wildlife trade.

How was your experience at the university?

I had a wonderful time at Colorado State University. The faculty members at Fort Collins went out of their way to make my stay rewarding in every possible way. Professor

Fulbright scholar and Indian Forest Service officer Samir Sinha talks about the conservation efforts in U.S. and Indian national parks.

Barry Noon of the Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Conservation Biology at the university took keen interest in my work, and shared his vast knowledge and passion for conservation.

I also spent time with officials of the Colorado Parks and Wildlife division and Wyoming Game and Fish Department, and interacted with colleagues to share experiences on wildlife conservation.

Did this interaction help you expand your knowledge and work back home?

Certainly. While the cultural and social contexts may be different, the challenges that biodiversity conservationists face across the world are similar. A lot of my time was spent in the field with fellow professionals. I was also invited to make presentations at various seminars, and held a few classroom sessions to share my experiences on tiger conservation.

This sharing of experiences and understanding of the legal and policy frameworks within which such processes operate have helped me enormously in appreciating our own challenges in India and South Asia, and proved useful in planning future strategies.

One experience that stands out for me was visiting a local school and delivering a talk to 3-year-olds on the magic of wilderness and wild animals.

Exchanging Photographs courtesy Samir Sinha

By RANJITA BISWAS

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How is poaching, a serious problem in many national parks in India, tackled at Corbett Tiger Reserve?

Poaching continues to be a very significant and potent threat to the conservation of species, not just in India, but globally. Corbett Tiger Reserve is home to a large number of highly endangered species, including tigers and elephants. It is also the only tiger reserve in India to hold over 200 tigers. So, the threat from poaching is real.

There is a multipronged strategy to deal with such threats, where a proactive foot-patrolling regime, supported by modern monitoring tools, is in place. Sniffer dogs carry out random searches along its boundaries.

However, the real key to the safety of a rich wildlife area such as Corbett, with large, dispersing populations of wildlife, lies outside the reserve boundaries. We work closely with other field units and agencies situated in our immediate vicinity to mount a cohesive and comprehensive collective response. This is a huge all-year-round effort, where the criminal always tries to get lucky at any chosen time, while we have to be lucky each day, every day.

Ranjita Biswas is a Kolkata-based journalist.

She also translates fiction and writes short stories.

Top: Samir Sinha delivers a talk on wilderness and wildlife to 3-yearolds at a school in Colorado.

Above: Sinha (left) with Ken Goddard, lab director at the National Fish and Wildlife Forensics Laboratory in Ashland, Oregon. It is the world’s only lab dedicated to crimes against wildlife.

Colorado State University

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Fulbright-N Nehru Fellowships

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Experiences

Left: Sinha (center) leads a foot patrol at Corbett Tiger Reserve in Uttarakhand.

Bay of Dreams

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National Park Service South Florida/Caribbean Network

By MICHAEL GALLANT

SHAUN WOLFE/ National Park Service

JUDD PATTERSON/ National Park Service

or many, the term “national park” conjures up images of snowcapped mountains and lush forests, sun-bleached deserts and rolling plains. Yet, some national parks in the United States contain barely any land at all. One of its most strikingly unique parks, in fact, consists of 95 percent water.

Biscayne National Park is located off the southeast tip of Florida, within sight of Miami’s bustling metropolis, and its magic resides in the space beyond where the beach ends and the water begins. Whether by motorboat or canoe, scuba dive or snorkeling expedition, visitors to the park can experience a world of marine beauty and diversity unlike any other.

The park’s attractions include crocodiles and sea turtles, playful manatees and rare, endangered butterflies. Below the water, intrepid swimmers can enjoy observing over

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600 native species of fish, which range in size from the width of an acorn to the length of a motor boat. Bird watchers and photographers experiencing the park from above the water will be equally delighted, as Biscayne National Park’s skies are patrolled by various seabirds, multiple species of hawk, eagle and falcon, and brown pelicans.

The park’s amazing biodiversity stems from, and thrives within, its four main ecosystems.

Along the coast of the Florida mainland, park visitors will find lush mangrove forests, described by the National Park Service as reminiscent of the mysterious jungles seen in old movies. From the shoreline of the mangrove forests, visitors can see the second ecosystem, the southern portions of Biscayne Bay. It is a shallow body in which fresh water from mainland Florida mixes with salt water

Biscayne National Park https://nps.gov/bisc

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Above: A snorkeler explores the aquamarine waters and vibrant coral reefs of Biscayne National Park (above right). The park is known for its vibrant array of sea creatures, including green sea turtles (above left), American crocodiles (above center) and over 600 native species of fish (left).

SHAUN WOLFE/National Park Service

Visitors experience rich marine beauty and human history at Florida’s Biscayne National Park.

years ago. In roughly 500 B.C.E., an indigenous community, called the Tequesta, lived in Biscayne, creating complex cultures and trade networks, farming and crafting pottery, and also sustaining itself using Biscayne Bay’s natural resources.

Tragically, within around 100 years of the arrival of European explorers in the 16th century, Biscayne’s indigenous population nearly disappeared as a result of diseases. Protected natural areas like Biscayne National Park may be the last, best chance to gain information about the area’s native population.

Biscayne’s human history is marked not just by sorrow, but also by inspiration. Israel Lafayette Jones, an African American born in 1858, settled in the Key Biscayne island as a young man, purchased the tiny island of Porgy Key for $300 (Rs. 20,000 approximately) and grew pineapples and key limes.

Within a generation, his operation grew and his family became the United States’ largest key lime

SHAUN WOLFE/National Park Service

National Park Service Digital Image Archives

JUDD PATTERSON/National Park Service

from the sea. Boaters, swimmers and divers regularly explore the rich views, expanses and depths of the bay’s crystalline waters.

The third ecosystem, made up of the northernmost Florida Keys islands, offers more frontiers and beaches to explore. Perhaps most impressive, though, is the fourth ecosystem, which consists of a portion of the world’s third-largest coral reef. Divers and snorkelers can experience a virtual underwater city of marine life, full of parrotfish and octopuses, and resplendent in colors. It was described in 1877

by Commodore Ralph Munroe as “a sort of liquid light, rather than water, so limpid and brilliant is it.”

Biscayne National Park’s natural richness is echoed by its human history, one marked by notable visitors ranging from pioneers to presidents. Ancient fossils and artifacts, including those found at the park’s Old Cutler archaeological campsite, show that humans inhabited the Biscayne area over 10,000

supplier. Jones’ son, Lancelot, later created a fishing guide business, through which he introduced many U.S. presidents, senators and industry leaders to the wonders of Biscayne Bay. Perhaps most significant, though, was Lancelot’s decision to sell his land in Biscayne Bay to the National Park Service, rather than to real estate developers. His choice led to the area’s long-term preservation and the eventual founding of Biscayne National Park. Present-day visitors to the beautiful refuge, which Jones and Lancelot helped create, can access Porgy Key by boat and explore their home and farm at the Jones Family Historic District located within the park.

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

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Far left: Boca Chita Key, the most visited island in Biscayne National Park, located within sight of downtown Miami, as seen in the distance.

Left: A child uses a glass-bottom bucket to watch fish and other small marine creatures at the park.

Below left: The park, which is 95 percent water, is not only rich in marine life, but also preserves evidence of 10,000 years of human history.

A Marine Masterpiece

Photographs by HANI AMIR/Courtesy Flickr

VAMAN KULKARNI

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hile national parks are a key element of American heritage, the United States is not the only country to officially protect areas of unique natural beauty. Case in point, India’s Marine National Park, situated on the southern coast of the Gulf of Kutch in the Jamnagar district of Gujarat.

Temperate, vast and diverse, the park is spread across 163 square kilometers. Its 42 islands lie amid an extensive network of coral reefs, significant amounts of which can be seen from the land when the gulf is at low tide. While Pirotan, Kalubhar and Narara are some of the best-known islands, Poshitra is an attraction among tourists for its marine biodiversity and for being a regular site for dolphins.

Marine National Park’s ecology is as stunning as its geography. Under, on and around the water, the park hosts multiple species of mollusks, sea turtles, prawns and sea snakes, as well as puffer fish, color-changing octopuses, dolphins and many more varieties of amazing aquatic creatures.

From the islands’ sandy beaches, visitors can see over 70 species of terrestrial birds feed and frolic. Nearly 100 varieties of aquatic birds call the park home as well, making it a rich destination for wildlife photographers and birdwatchers alike.

Established in 1982, Marine National Park was the first park of its kind in India. Additional marine parks have been established in the years since its inception. Resident species like the painted stork, black-necked ibis and great Indian bustard are considered to be threatened—a key reason why the area’s national park designation is so important.

Travelers can access the park via ferry and may wish to time their visits so they are present in the park for low tide. The reason? As the water recedes and reefs, sands and wildlife are revealed, visitors can witness a momentarily unhidden world of —M.G. vibrant and varied marine magic.

Above: Marine National Park is home to nearly 200 species of birds, including the western reef heron.

Left and below: The park is spread across 163 square kilometers and its 42 islands are surrounded by reefs, which are revealed at low tide.

Marine National Park

http://mnpcs.gov.in

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Mazes, Needles and an

NEAL HERBERT/ National Park Service

Island

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ierced by the Colorado River in the southeastern portion of Utah, Canyonlands National Park encompasses a vast desert landscape unlike any other.

Thanks to the park’s vistas and canyons, rivers and rock formations, thousands of visitors travel from around the world to experience its wonders each year.

Although Canyonlands has a desert atmosphere, the park is largely defined by the water within it. Its widely-varied, multilayered and multicolored landscapes are the result of millions of years of erosion caused by the grand Colorado River, the smaller

GARY WINDUST/Courtesy Flickr

Top: Pothole Point Trail, an easy selfguiding hike in The Needles district of Canyonlands National Park (below).

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Above: Mesa Arch, a stone arch perched at the edge of a cliff with views of canyons and mountains in the park. It is a popular spot for tourists to view once-in-a-lifetime sunrises.

Sky

By MICHAEL GALLANT

Canyonlands National Park in Utah offers some of the United States’ most stunning and varied natural sites.

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 21

ALAN SZALWINSKI/Courtesy Flickr

in the

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Above: For those who wish to tour Canyonlands National Park in recreational vehicles (RV), campgrounds outside the park offer RV hookups.

Above right: A view of the park from the Green River Overlook in the Island in the Sky district.

Below: The Doll House, stunning rock formations that look like a family of dolls, in The Maze district of the park.

Green River and their tributaries. The park’s twin rivers are also responsible for dividing Canyonlands into four distinct districts, each with its own signature geology, geography and character.

Located in the northern region of the park is the most accessible of the four districts— Island in the Sky. And, it truly lives up to its name. The mesa, a flat-topped hill, rests on sheer sandstone cliffs over 300 meters above the surrounding terrain and offers breathtaking visibility that stretches for kilometers in all directions.

To capture once-in-a-lifetime sunrises, photographers often embark on daybreak hikes to Island in the Sky’s famous Mesa Arch. It is a towering cliffside window of rock through which visitors can get stunning views of canyons, mountains and the White Rim Road that runs along the White Rim Sandstone formation. At the southern end of the district

lies Grand View Point, a vista that gives visitors spectacular sight of the White Rim and faraway mountains, as well as two of the park’s other districts—The Maze and The Needles.

The Maze is much more remote and difficult to access than Island in the Sky. According to the Backpacker magazine, only a fraction of the visitors to Island in the Sky journey into The Maze, and those who do, come fully prepared for multi-day treks with maps, supplies and even four-wheel-drive vehicles. Those who make the trip are rewarded by amazing sights, like the Chocolate Drops, a series of four rectangular shafts of shale that rise into the sky. In addition to its plentiful remote canyons, The Maze is also home to the Doll House, a series of imposing, multicolored stone spires that indeed look uncannily like a family of dolls.

Continued on Page 24

Regardless of whether interests lie in peaceful walks and serene sunsets or endurance-ttesting adventures into raw desert backcountry, Canyonlands National Park offers unmatched opportunities to explorers.

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AISHWARY GOYAL RANJAN GHOSAL

Prey to Protection

Ranthambore National Park

https://goo.gl/g8M9sh

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ill a few decades ago, a large patch of a jungle in Rajasthan was used as a violent playground, an area in which to hunt majestic tigers for sport. In the 1970’s, though, the same wild area took on a new identity: a protected sanctuary to support and sustain India’s precious tiger population.

Ranthambore National Park in Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan, covers nearly 400 square kilometers and is now regarded as one of the best places in the world to see Bengal tigers living and thriving in the wild. Visitors come from all over to witness the jungle cats in action, as well as to watch and photograph the park’s peacocks, leopards, marsh crocodiles, wild boar and other varieties of diverse wildlife.

Key to the park’s history is its majestic namesake and a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, which rises over jungle and ruins alike. Travelers to the fort can visit its trio of 12th- and 13th-century temples all carved from striking red Karauli stone. Also worth investigating is the acoustically-unique Hammir Court, an open court area where words whispered at one end amazingly resonate on the other.

For history enthusiasts, Ranthambore offers something reminiscent of Canyonlands National Park—rock art. The Kailadevi forests, located within the park boundaries, were recently found to contain cave paintings of leopards, tigers and other wildlife. They are believed to be nearly 2,000 years old—a full 1,000 years before Ranthambore Fort was built.

Visit Ranthambore National Park to absorb millennia of history and come face-to-face with the beautiful Bengal tigers in the wild.

—M.G.

KAIT THOMAS/National Park Service

Above right: Ranthambore National Park offers visitors the opportunity to experience a unique combination of historical ruins and wildlife diversity.

Above: The park is considered one of the best places in the world to see Bengal tigers in the wild.

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KAIT THOMAS/National Park Service JOHN FOWLER NEAL HERBERT /National Park Service

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Canyonlands National Park www.nps.gov/cany

24 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

More accessible and regularly-visited is The Needles district, located in the southeast region of Canyonlands National Park. The district derived its name from the multilayered red and white pinnacles of Cedar Mesa Sandstone that guard the area. The sight of The Needles is truly impressive, so much so that it inspired Bates Wilson, the superintendent of the nearby Arches National Monument from 1949 to 1964, to push for the creation of a national park including the majestic pillars, thereby beginning the process that would conclude with the official creation of Canyonlands National Park. Access to The Needles requires either a boat ride or a four-wheel-drive vehicle, and strenuous hiking should be expected.

The Needles is also home to relics of a bygone era, including mud and stone shelters created by ancestral Puebloans, some of the first farmers in the U.S. southwest, as well as historic petroglyphs, images engraved into the park’s richly-colored stone by its earliest inhabitants. Another place to witness Native American rock art is Horseshoe Canyon, located northwest of The Maze. The Great Galley, the best known panel in Horseshoe Canyon, includes life-sized figures with intricate designs.

The final district of Canyonlands is the lifeblood of the park itself—the rivers. Visitors can enjoy numerous flatwater trips on both the

Top left: The Chocolate Drops, four towering pillars of shale, are a defining part of Canyonlands’ The Maze district.

Above left: Historic petroglyphs, figures etched in the rocks by the earliest inhabitants, in The Needles district of the park.

Above: The White Rim Road, known for its expansive views of the surrounding area, is a challenging trip, both for mountain bikers and four-wheel-drive vehicles.

Green and Colorado rivers, or brave the kilometers of challenging whitewater that flows through the park’s Cataract Canyon, an isolated section of the Colorado River. Like other areas of Canyonlands, Cataract Canyon was once home to indigenous American cultures; ruins and rock art can still be found amidst the canyon walls.

Regardless of whether interests lie in peaceful walks and serene sunsets or endurance-testing adventures into raw desert backcountry, Canyonlands National Park offers unmatched opportunities to explorers, who would all be well advised to come prepared.

Plentiful information on hikes, treks and boat trips is available on the Internet. National Park Service rangers also present a bevy of on-site programs to help visitors safely enjoy, explore and make the most of their visits.

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

DAVID FULMER /Courtesy Flickr

Tales of Trees

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Congaree National Park

Jtmartin57/Courtesy Wikipedia

in South Carolina protects the largest intact expanse of oldgrowth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the United States.

By PAROMITA PAIN

he first word that comes to mind about Congaree National Park is “majestic.” Spread over 10,600 hectares in central South Carolina, the park preserves the largest tract of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest in the United States. For kilometers, it celebrates the lofty pine and cypress trees, which have stood in the area for years.

It was designated as the Congaree Swamp National Monument in 1976 because much of the park lies within the floodplain of the Congaree River and is subject to periodic floods, which occur approximately 10 times a year. As the National Geographic

reported, “After the monument gained national park status in November 2003—and dropped the unappealing ‘s’ word from its name—the number of visitors each month increased significantly.” The park has been designated a wilderness area, which means it has had the time to grow relatively undisturbed by human interventions. It is also an International Biosphere Reserve, a Globally Important Bird Area and a National Natural Landmark.

Congaree is one of the three places in North America where synchronous fireflies can be seen for a brief two-week period, between mid-May and mid-June.

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Above: Paddling through Cedar Creek, a backwater stream that flows through the heart of Congaree National Park (top right), is the best way to experience the park.

Congaree National Park

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 25

Legend and nature

The walk has “stops” pointing out to hikers the different aspects of the trail and the mustsees. The boating trail can be used to explore Cedar Creek. Maneuvering through the labyrinth of trees can be exciting. There are no hilly areas, but there are some bridges. Most of the trails are on flat ground, so dogs and other assistance animals can be taken along. But, as the visitor center guide says, “Some of the grounds can be wet and swampy. So, we caution visitors to be careful.” The center offers maps of hiking trails with descriptions of the vegetation. Many ranger-led activities make the park easy to navigate. For young visitors, the Junior Ranger program is a great way to learn about the forest.

Hiking and more

Community connection

Visitors come to Congaree National Park for a variety of activities. The park is extremely green and the quiet is mostly broken by woodpeckers and the enthusiastic singing of bull frogs. Wildlife like deer, otter, feral pigs, bobcats and owls are also abundant here. Park rangers often take visitors to hear

Congaree National Park believes in working with local communities to ensure that more people get involved with its activities and work together to protect natural habitats. In September 2017, the park celebrated National Public Lands Day with a community bike ride, offered as part of the nationwide “Bike Your Park” day, for

and spot barred owls and learn more about the trees, especially the fungi that grow on the cypresses. Besides exploring the hardwood trees, fishing, and canoeing and kayaking on different creeks, visitors can enjoy the park’s variety of hiking trails.

The park has over 40 kilometers of hiking trails and nearly four kilometers of boardwalk, and can be experienced either on foot or by boat. The Boardwalk Trail starts at the park’s Harry Hampton Visitor Center and is very popular, says a center guide. Most visitors who want a feel of the park take this, before venturing on to the other longer hikes.

visitors to take in the pastoral settings of Lower Richland County. In 2017, the park staff collaborated with community members and participants from the nonprofit organization Friends of Congaree Swamp to start work on a new park trail to provide access to the Bates Old River and other natural features.

Traveling to Congaree National Park in the warm months can be difficult since most wetlands breed mosquitoes. Spring and fall are the most popular seasons among visitors.

HUNTER DESPORTES /Courtesy Flickr

DAVID FULMER/Courtesy Flickr

MIGUEL VIEIRA /Courtesy Flickr

Below right: The Boardwalk Trail in Congaree National Park, which starts from the Harry Hampton Visitor Center and leads into the old-growth bottomland hardwood forest.

Below: A mosquito meter, which gives a heads-up on the mosquito activity in Congaree each day.

Bottom: The Kingsnake Trail, a favorite among birders because of its diverse vegetation and proximity to Cedar Creek.

The park is named after the Native American tribe, Congaree, which lived here before dying out in the 18th century because of smallpox epidemics. Then, the timber industry threatened to take over, knowing the age-old cypress could be sold for good profit.

But the area’s remoteness and lack of navigation saved it from decimation.

There is more to Congaree National Park than its natural offerings. It is also a place of tales and legends. For example, the cypress trees’ trademark small, lumpy growths around the base of the trunk are believed to be forest elves, who dance at night throughout the woodland.

26 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Paromita Pain is a journalist based in Austin, Texas.

L

and Tigers

ike Congaree National Park that protects hardwood trees, the Sundarbans is home to mangrove forests, one of the largest in the world. It is part of the world’s largest delta, formed by the Ganges, Brahmaputra and Meghna rivers on the Bay of Bengal. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is also home to the endangered species of the Bengal tiger; the only mangrove forest in the world to have them.

Over four million people stay here.

Sundarbans National Park in West Bengal covers over 2,500 square kilometers of the 4,262 square kilometers of the Sundarban forests in India. It got its name from one of the mangrove plants known as Sundari. The park works with local communities, teaching them

antipoaching techniques and ensuring that no human interference deters the protection of these precious tigers. Controlling maneating tigers is an important aspect of their work as well. But the terrain of the Sundarbans does not make this easy, as a delta, rivers and different streams and watercourses form a network of complex channels. It is almost as if the roots of the mangroves hold the delta together, while protecting different types of fish and other life forms.

The Sundarbans, with its unique ecology, provides a safe habitat for about 260 varieties of birds, threatened species like estuarine crocodiles and the Indian python, and monitor lizards and the king —P.P. cobra.

Below and bottom: Sundarbans is one of the world’s largest mangrove forests.

Below left: A Bengal tiger in the Sundarbans.

juggadery/Courtesy Flickr

Tides

Sundarbans National Park

Suman85/Courtesy Wikipedia

SOUMYAJIT NANDY/Courtesy Wikipedia

https://whc.unesco.org /en/list/452

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Volcanic Vacation

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By JASON CHIANG

he land is constantly reminding us that it is alive at Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Located among the sprawling Sierra Nevada mountains in Northern California, the park contains amazing natural features like steaming sulfur vents, bubbling mud pots and boiling hot springs. Although the area’s most famous active volcano, Lassen Peak, has not erupted since 1921, the park is home to all four types of volcanoes and beckons visitors to explore its volcanic terrain.

Lassen Volcanic National Park spans over 42,000 hectares in northeast California and welcomes around 500,000 visitors annually. It is an ideal destination for those who like to enjoy natural splendor without the large crowds, for example, of California’s famous Yosemite National Park, located a few hours south, which attracts over 4.3 million visitors every year.

Lush forests, peaceful meadows and sparkling lakes are found throughout Lassen Volcanic National Park’s otherworldly boundaries—a relatively undiscovered gem of California’s breathtaking mountainous landscape.

The park started as two separate monuments designated by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1907: the Cinder Cone National Monument and Lassen Peak National Monument. From 1914 to 1915, Lassen Peak experienced a series of over 150 eruptions, culminating in its largest on May 22, 1915, which shot volcanic

From roaring fumaroles to boiling lakes,

Lassen Volcanic National Park is a perfect destination for those looking to discover volcanic treasures.

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Courtesy National Park Service

estivillml/iStock/Thinkstock

Below right: Bumpass Hell, the largest hydrothermal area in Lassen Volcanic National Park, which contains Big Boiler, the park’s largest and the world’s hottest fumarole.

Below: The colorful Painted Dunes at the park.

Bottom: A black bear and its cub at the park.

Lassen Volcanic National Park www.nps.gov/lavo

steam and ash 30,000 feet into the sky. The area gained fame because of these dramatic eruptions, and was later declared a national park on August 9, 1916.

Today, the park’s volcanic explosions have settled, but the land is still shaped and defined by constant seismic activity occurring underground. All four different types of volcanoes can be found here: shield, composite, cinder cone and plug dome. As a result, the park features nearly every kind of volcanic geological feature known to man—from mud pots and lava beds to cinder cones and smoking vents. This diverse landscape has inspired the name of its unique landmarks like Chaos Crags, Devil’s Kitchen, Bumpass Hell and Boiling Springs Lake. The popular Bumpass Hell Trail and Basin is currently closed for a multi-year rehabilitation project.

It is common for visitors to camp at Lassen Volcanic National Park, which is typically empty enough that only half of its campsites require advance reservations. The park offers eight campgrounds, each distinct and attracting different types of campers. The Manzanita Lake Campground features a lot of amenities and is, therefore, very popular with families.

Some of the more remote and adventurous campgrounds include Butte Lake, Warner Valley and Juniper Lake—each lies at the end of a road that does not connect with the main

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park road. For those who prefer indoor accommodations, the Drakesbad Guest Ranch provides the only covered lodging within the park, and operates from early June through early October. This old 1900’s-style lodge offers rustic accommodations, most without electricity, in the southeast side of the park, with amenities like massage services, guided trail rides and a full-service restaurant.

During the winter and spring seasons, Lassen Volcanic National Park becomes an ideal ski and backcountry snowboard destination. Even beginners can put on a pair of snowshoes and hike to see the beauty of nature covered in white.

While some roads through the park close down in winters, both the north and south entrances LEONARD G./Courtesy Wikipedia

Courtesy National Park Service

Above: Lassen Peak, also called Mount Lassen, rises above the surrounding area to an elevation of 10,457 feet. This active volcano is the prime attraction of Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Left: The challenging Cinder Cone Nature Trail allows visitors to experience the youngest volcano of the park firsthand and enjoy spectacular views on the way.

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Photographs courtesy National Park Service

rangers also lead other astronomy programs at Lassen Volcanic National Park during summers. It is one of the best places in California to see the night sky.

California is home to some truly stunning scenery, with few more jaw-dropping and unique than Lassen Volcanic National Park.

The jagged rocks, crystal clear mountain lakes, thermally-altered soil, fields of wildflowers and towering volcanoes are all part of the eye-popping landscape of this Californian treasure.

Jason Chiang is a freelance writer based in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.

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Volcanic Island Narcondam Island https://goo.gl/dYJCAj

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Above left: The Milky Way over Lassen Peak in Lassen Volcanic National Park, one of the best places to enjoy the night sky and learn about celestial wonders.

Above: The park offers over 240 kilometers of hiking trails for visitors with different levels of ability.

arcondam Island is located about 240 kilometers northeast of Port Blair in the Andaman Islands.

Narcondam houses a small, dormant volcano, and is believed to have been created by its eruption. Thus, for a long period of time, this small, remote island in the Bay of Bengal remained secluded and inaccessible to tourists.

Narcondam Island is listed on UNESCO’s tentative list of World Heritage Sites for being the only site “inhabited by the Narcondam Hornbill (Aceros narcondami), a distinct hornbill species, as well as several other species which are representative

of the unique biome of the Andaman and Nicobar islands.” The island has been notified as a sanctuary under the provisions of the Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972, to protect and monitor this hornbill species, listed as endangered on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List of Threatened Species.

Narcondam Island came into the limelight as its waters gained popularity among scuba divers. The other attractions of this picturesque island are the Narcondam Mountain and its dense evergreen forests.

Photographs by KALYAN VARMA/Courtesy Wikipedia

have marked snowshoe trails. Visitors can choose to venture on their own, or opt for a park ranger-guided snowshoe walk on weekends.

At night, the park is pitch black; so dark that there is an entire celebration devoted to it. The Dark Sky Festival, usually held in late July or early August, is an annual three-day celebration of stargazing and astronomy activities, including solar scope viewing and constellation tours. There are usually discussions and demonstrations by park rangers and experts from NASA, the International Dark-Sky Association and the Astronomical Society of the Pacific. Park

—J.C.

Left: Narcondam Island is completely uninhabited by humans, except for a security post, and is the only home of the endangered species of Narcondam Hornbill (above left).

Desert Paradise

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By JASON CHIANG

ith its picturesque, almost mystical beauty, Joshua Tree National Park is where many visitors fall in love with California’s peaceful desert paradise. Located about 225 kilometers east of Los Angeles, the park is spread across approximately 320,000 hectares and spans two distinct desert ecosystems: the Mojave Desert and the Colorado Desert. Visitors come from all over the globe to witness the park’s namesake Joshua trees as well as enormous lunar-like boulders, which combine for some of the most epic photo opportunities.

Designated a U.S. national monument since 1936, Joshua Tree National Monument was promoted to its national park status under the California Desert Protection Act of 1994.

Today, over 2.8 million people visit the park annually to experience its otherworldly scenery and indulge in hiking, camping and rock climbing. It is open throughout the year, but tends to be busiest from October through May, when the weather is moderate.

The park is named after the Joshua tree, which is described by the National Park Service

Joshua Tree National Park

Above: The Cholla Cactus Garden in Joshua Tree National Park features a flat trail dominated by teddybear cholla, the signature cactus with bright yellow spines and dark lower trunk.

Left: The namesake trees in the park take many different forms, from full and bushy to spindly and open in shape.

Photographs by Jason Chiang

in California spans two distinct desert ecosystems and is home to a fascinating variety of plants and wildlife.

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JASON CHIANG Courtesy National Park Service

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Above right: Joshua trees and lunar-like boulders in Joshua Tree National Park provide the setting for iconic photographs.

Right: The park is considered one of the best rock climbing and bouldering destinations.

Joshua Tree National Park

www.nps.gov/jotr

32 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

website as “twisted, spiky trees straight out of a Dr. Seuss book.” These strange-looking dangling “trees” are actually a member of the agave family, and can grow well over 20 feet tall while averaging over 150 years in age.

Joshua trees can be spotted throughout the park’s western portion located in the Mojave Desert, also referred to as the “high desert,” with elevations rising above 3,000 feet.

For those who prefer to enjoy nature from the comfort of their own vehicle, the park’s west entrance is the best option. With approximately 150 kilometers of paved and nearly 170 kilometers of unpaved roads, visitors can drive for many hours exploring the park. The Park Boulevard loop is the main paved road for a driving tour of all the main landmarks, vistas and rest points.

The eastern half of the park transitions from the Mojave “high desert” to the Colorado Desert, a flatter ecosystem, known for milder

weather and blossoming wildflowers during springtime. The Cholla Cactus Garden is a highlight of the park, featuring four hectares of vibrant cacti and expansive plant life. In total, about 750 documented plant species are found throughout the park. The garden features a flat trail that guides visitors on a casual stroll through clusters of beautiful “teddybear cholla,” the signature cactus known for its beautiful bright yellow spines and misleading fuzzy appearance. These spines are actually very sharp and can detach very easily to stick to anyone who gets too close.

A variety of wild animals, reptiles and birds is found at Joshua Tree National Park. The best times to watch the wildlife are at dawn or dusk, when the temperatures are moderate.

During daytime, visitors are likely to see only birds, lizards and ground squirrels. The park is home to about 52 species of mammals and over 250 species of birds.

There is no lodging within Joshua Tree National Park. There are, however, nine campgrounds offering 523 campsites for visitors who wish to spend the night outside. Camping fees range from $15 (Rs. 1,030 approximately) to $20 (Rs. 1,370 approximately) per night, with amenities like toilets, tables and fireplace grates available. The busy season of October through May usually requires a reservation to guarantee a campsite. Visitors can also opt for the private campgrounds located outside the park. Traditional hotels and motels, as well as vacation rental homes can be found in the neighboring towns like Yucca Valley and Twentynine Palms.

The energy emanating from Joshua Tree National Park is easy to lose yourself in, but there are several safety tips that travelers should consider before visiting. Because of its remote desert location, there is almost no cell phone service inside the park. Emergency phones can be found at the ranger station in Indian Cove or at the parking lot at Intersection Rock, near Hidden Valley Campground. Park rangers advise visitors to be very cautious during times of extreme heat.

Temperatures are often over 38 degrees Celsius during the summertime, and rangers recommend travelers drink at least four liters of water per day to replace the loss from sweat. Enjoy responsibly!

Jason Chiang is a freelance writer based in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.

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Cactus Garden Photographs courtesy Cactus Garden

http://cactus gardenhuda.com

Garden of Thorns Above right and below right: Spread across 2.8 hectares, Dr. J.S. Sarkaria National Cactus and Succulent Botanical Garden and Research Centre is considered Asia’s largest outdoor landscaped cactus garden. It is home to over 2,500 species of cacti and succulents (below and bottom right).

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r. J.S. Sarkaria National Cactus and Succulent Botanical Garden and Research Centre in Panchkula, Haryana, houses over 2,500 species of cacti and succulents. It is considered Asia’s largest outdoor landscaped cactus garden. It was founded in 1992 by Dr. Sarkaria, a surgeon who served in the Indian Medical Service and donated the huge collection of cacti and succulents that he had amassed during his travels. The Haryana Urban Development Authority (HUDA) provided land and finance to build a public facility to care for and propagate his precious garden. It was initially called the

National Cactus and Succulent Botanical Garden and Research Center, but was renamed after the death of Dr. Sarkaria in 2004.

Spanning over 2.8 hectares, the garden holds the largest comprehensive collection of Indian succulents in the world, most of them rare and endangered species, and contains three separate greenhouses. The garden is open through the year, though the timings may vary at different times of the year. Entry fee to the garden is Rs. 10 per person. For those looking to start their own cactus and succulent collection, plants are also available for purchase at the garden.

—J.C.

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Olympic National Park

Courtesy Aramark

is home to three distinctly different ecosystems: glaciercapped mountains, rain forests and a wild coastline.

CHRIS WEBER /Courtesy Flickr

Right: Ruby Beach at Olympic National Park is famous for its reddish sand and vertical rock formations called sea stacks.

Above: The Sol Duc area of the park, a perfect place for camping or day hiking. Oldgrowth forest, the Sol Duc River and the Sol Duc Falls make for a picturesque landscape.

34 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

A Microcosm of

Planet Earth

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By CANDICE YACONO

cross-section of the world’s most varied ecosystems lies nestled in the northwest corner of the continental United States.

Olympic National Park in Washington state extends from the wild coastline of the Pacific Ocean east into old-growth temperate rain forests and river valleys, then through high mountains, glaciers and forested areas. The park is located on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, west of Seattle.

“The Olympic National Park encompasses amazing rain forests, natural hot mineral spring pools, hiking trails to some of the most spectacular waterfalls, and tranquil lakes,” says Bret Pfost, regional general manager at Aramark, which manages the park. “Wildlife viewing ranges from watching salmon leaping out of the water to bald eagles soaring high, and bears, elk, endangered northern spotted owl and more.”

Must-see destinations include the Hoh Rain Forest, famous for its lush greenery at all times of the year; Kalaloch beach, where one can watch for bald eagles; the Quinault Rain Forest, which boasts of some of the largest trees in the world; and the Sol Duc Falls. The Quileute coastal community of La Push, made famous by the “Twilight” novel and film series, is ringed by the Hole-in-the-Wall sea-carved arch and beaches boasting of driftwood benches.

Olympic National Park also has a variety of accommodation options. “The environment is very peaceful and travelers can enjoy four historic

properties—Lake Quinault Lodge, Log Cabin Resort, Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort and Lake Crescent Lodge—if they chose to ‘lodge hop’ throughout the park,” says Pfost.

Lake Quinault Lodge was built in 1926, and is located inside the rain forest. The rooms don’t have telephones or Wi-Fi, and most don’t even have a television, allowing park visitors to disconnect from the frenzy of everyday life. The lodge arranges for lake tours at daybreak, afternoon and sunset, offering visitors an opportunity to relax, enjoy sightseeing and learn about the surrounding area.

Lake Crescent Lodge was built in 1915 as a lakefront base camp, while Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort and Log Cabin Resort feature more rustic summer and autumn accommodations. Sol Duc also boasts of hot mineral spring pools and poolside massages.

In winter, visitors can ski Hurricane Ridge, which sees an average snowfall of more than 400 inches.

A year-round four-hour tour offered by Lake Quinault Lodge allows visitors to experience the park’s three rain forests, as well as learn about the history of the Quinault Indian Nation and the native vegetation and wildlife. A guided kayak trip arranged by Lake Crescent Lodge helps guests delve into the secrets and legends of Lake Crescent.

A range of restaurants is also available, along with individual activity options like paddle boating, kayaking, biking, hiking and fishing. Reservations

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Olympic National Park

JASPERDO/Courtesy Flickr Courtesy U.S. Forest Service

Courtesy Aramark

PETE /Courtesy Flickr

Left and above: Lake Quinault Lodge, located inside the Quinault Rain Forest in Olympic National Park.

Center left: The beautiful Lake Crescent, nestled in the northern foothills of the Olympic Mountains.

Below left: Goat Lake in the Buckhorn Wilderness of Olympic National Forest, which is only accessible via a difficult hike.

for accommodation are encouraged as rooms get booked fast, especially in July and August.

The region was first inhabited by Native American tribes, followed by the arrival of the Europeans in the late 1500’s. Most of the land has remained unchanged since that time. The park endeavors to protect the cultural resources of those who first called it home.

Eight tribes—the Lower Elwha Klallam, Jamestown S’Klallam, Port Gamble S’Klallam, Skokomish, Quinault, Hoh, Quileute and Makah—have an ancient bond with the peninsula. Today, they reside on reservations along its shores. The tribes have participated in regional annual Tribal Canoe Journeys since 1989’s “Paddle to Seattle,” as a way of reclaiming their cultural heritage.

In 1897, President Grover Cleveland designated the peninsula’s forested areas as the Olympic Forest Reserve. Then, President Theodore Roosevelt set it aside in 1909 as a national monument. In 1938, President Franklin Roosevelt signed an act to establish it as Olympic National Park. It was designated an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976.

Subsequently, the site received World Heritage status from UNESCO in 1982 for its extraordinary beauty and diversity of plants and animals.

“It is the best example of intact and protected temperate rain forest in the Pacific Northwest,” says Pfost. “From camping to hiking, biking, boat and rain forest tours, trails and more, there are endless ways to explore this hidden gem.”

Candice Yacono is a magazine and newspaper writer based in southern California.

36 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Land O

of

leopards. Under an initiative by the Ladakhbased Snow Leopard Conservancy India Trust, the park’s villagers are encouraged to offer homestays to those who wish to view the snow leopards up close. This income helps to compensate for the loss of their livestock. The Ministry of Environment and Forest of the Government of India also launched Project Snow Leopard in 2009 to protect the giant cats.

The park’s ecosystems include pine forests, alpine tundra, shrub lands and meadows.

Other endangered mammals, including the Eurasian brown bear, the Tibetan wolf and the red fox, also call the park home. Birds of prey in the park include the golden eagle and a few varieties of vulture. A study found 15 varieties of rare and endangered medicinal plants —C.Y. growing in the park as well.

Hemis National Park

Below: Hemis National Park, the only home of snow leopards (above right) in India. Among birds, the chukar partridge (right) is commonly found here.

Far right: A view of one of the six villages in the park, with a combined population of about 1,600 people.

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ne of South Asia’s largest national parks, Hemis National Park is best known for the elusive snow leopards that call it home.

The high-altitude park was established in 1981; its boundaries grew in subsequent years.

The only Indian national park set north of the Himalayas, it comprises 4,400 square kilometers in Jammu and Kashmir’s eastern Ladakh district.

There are six villages within the park with a population of about 1,600 people. The nearly 400-year-old Hemis Monastery is also located within the park.

Roughly 200 snow leopards live in Hemis National Park, particularly in the Rumbak Valley. The leopards prey on sheep, shapo, ibex and livestock. In the past, farmers attempted to retaliate for their lost livestock.

Hence, efforts were made to protect snow

Snow

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Catching the

W

By NATASA MILAS

ind Cave National Park in South Dakota is spread over 13,699 hectares, encompassing the grassy prairies of the Grand Plains and the ponderosa pine forest of the Black Hills.

The park was established in January 1903

by President Theodore Roosevelt and named after the cave that lies beneath the park: Wind Cave. It was the first U.S. national park created to protect a cave.

Visitors to Wind Cave National Park are invited to explore both its diverse mix of habitats above the ground as well as the unusual attractions underground.

The park’s unique ecosystem, a combination of prairie grasslands and ponderosa pine forests, is host to a variety of plant and animal species. Since about 60 percent of the park’s area is open grasslands, animals like bison, prairie dogs and mule deer are found in large numbers, and can be easily seen by visitors. Other bird and animal species inhabiting the parks include prairie falcons, meadowlarks, nuthatches, wild turkeys, pronghorns, raccoons and elk.

Beyond the rich flora and fauna lies the park’s main attraction—Wind Cave. A complex maze of about 225 kilometers of explored passages makes it one of the world’s longest cave systems.

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in South Dakota is home to one of the world’s longest cave systems, known for its honeycomb-like formations and more.

38 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Its most distinctive feature is the wind that blows in and out of it, equalizing atmospheric pressure of the passages inside and the atmosphere outside. The discovery of the entrance to the cave is usually credited to the Lakota Indians, who lived on Black Hills. They spoke about “a hole that breathes cool air” and considered it sacred. Later, in 1881, American brothers Tom and Jesse Bingham noticed the cave entrance due to a loud whistling noise coming from it. The wind was so strong that it blew Jesse’s hat off. The cave slowly gained popularity among more explorers.

Most people are used to seeing a multitude of formations, called speleothems, decorating caves’ interiors. The most common of these are stalactites and stalagmites—icicle-shaped formations that hang off the cave’s ceiling or rise from the ground, produced by precipitation of Right: A park ranger shows boxwork mineral formation to visitors at the namesake cave of Wind Cave National Park. The cave boasts of these rare and unique formations, instead of the commonly-seen stalactites and stalagmites.

Below: About 60 percent of the park’s area is open grasslands, where animals like bisons (below left) are found in large numbers. htrnr/iStock/Thinkstock

Wind Cave National Park

minerals from water dripping through the cave’s walls.

Wind Cave is very different from most caves in this regard. Because of its dry air, it contains very few stalactites and stalagmites, but has many other mineral formations that are rare and unique, like boxwork, frostwork, cave popcorn and dogtooth spar, among others.

Made of tiny blades of calcite, boxworks hang off the cave’s ceiling in the shape of irregularly formed honeycombs. Cave popcorn are calcite growths on its walls, usually where water seeps uniformly out of the limestone wall and precipitates the mineral.

Frostwork, most visually pleasing of all formations, usually grows on top of other formations like boxwork or cave popcorn. In Wind Cave, frostwork appears in areas with above average airflow.

Dogtooth spars are small spear-shaped calcite crystals that frequently line the pockets of limestone rocks. These are common to the Black Hills region and can also be found at the neighboring Jewel Cave National Monument.

Visitors who want to see the Wind Cave can do so by signing up for one of the park

ranger-guided tours. There are several tours that cater to a person’s time availability and physical ability. The most common is the one-hour Garden of Eden Cave Tour. This gives visitors a sample of the Wind Cave attractions, including boxwork and cave popcorn. This is the shortest tour, and visitors enter and exit the cave by an elevator. The Natural Entrance Tour and the Fairgrounds Tour range from moderate to difficult, while the most strenuous one is the four-hour Wild Cave Tour, which includes crawling and exploring the less-developed trails.

Visitors can also sign up for the Candlelight Cave Tour to see how the early explorers saw the cave. This tour explores the less-lit and less-traveled parts of the cave.

Wind Cave National Park is a perfect place to include in your next vacation or road trip plan. With its variety of plants and wildlife, diverse landscapes and sensational geological formations, the park has something for everyone.

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WindinCaves

Natasa Milas is a freelance writer based in New York City.

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Wind Cave National Park

Land of Caves and Waterfalls K

anger Valley National Park, established in 1982, is one of the most picturesque parks in India.

Located near Jagdalpur in the Bastar region of Chhattisgarh, the park is spread over 200 square kilometers along the Kanger river. The park is known for its heterogeneous landscapes—ranging from low flat areas to steep slopes, plateaus, valleys and streams—rich flora and fauna, waterfalls and subterranean limestone caves. It is one of the main hotspots of biodiversity in India.

There are many attractions in the Kanger Valley National Park. Visitors can explore its forests, caves and waterfalls on their own or through the Kanger Above right: Kotumsar Cave, a subterranean limestone cave located near the banks of the Kanger

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Kanger Valley National Park

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40 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

river in the Kanger Valley National Park.

Below: Tirathgarh Falls, a major attraction in the park.

Gypsy Jungle Safari organized by the park. Look out for the 533 floral species that the park hosts, or its diverse fauna, including leopards, barking deer, wild boars, flying squirrels, crocodiles, and different types of birds, including the famous state bird of Chhattisgarh, Bastar Hill Myna.

Not to be missed is the Tirathgarh Falls, also known as “Milky Fall,” due to its white color. This site offers beautiful views of water cascading over the surrounding hills, and is one of the most-visited waterfalls in Chhattisgarh.

Not all the beauty lie on the surface of the park.

Kanger Valley National Park is also known for its underground limestone caves—Kotumsar, Kailash and Dandak.

While Kotumsar is one of the most biologicallyexplored caves in India, Kailash and Dandak boast of stunning stalactite and stalagmite formations. Kailash cave, for instance, has a huge stalagmite formation at its end in the shape of a Shivlinga, and its hollow walls make incredible musical sounds when struck by hand.

The best time to visit the park is November to June, as the caves are closed during the monsoon season due to frequent flooding.

—N.M.

Death Valley is known for its sand dunes, deep canyons and even fields of wildflowers.

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R

The hottest and driest national park in the United States,

ocks that seem to glide across the desert floor. Abandoned ghost towns. Native American legends of an underground city. A study in extremes, Death Valley in eastern California boasts of an iconic name and endless fascination.

“Three words best capture Death Valley: hot, dry, low,” says Char Miller, co-author of “Death Valley National Park: A History” and the W.M. Keck Professor of Environmental Analysis and History at Pomona College in California. “Everything about Death Valley’s climate and physical geography is striking.”

It is one of the hottest places on Earth. In

the summer of 2001, for instance, a record 154 consecutive days of over 38 degree Celsius were recorded. But, winters can be equally punishing.

The average annual precipitation in the narrow desert valley is less than two inches.

The rain it does receive can, however, cause flash floods.

“However infrequent the precipitation, plants soak it up, and can later produce a super bloom of desert wildflowers that will take your breath away,” says Miller.

The lowest point in North America, the aptly-named Badwater Basin, is located in

Teakettle Junction, a remote spot on the road to Racetrack Playa in Death Valley National Park, where some travelers consider it good luck to leave a new kettle and collect an old one.

Land of Extremes

By CANDICE YACONO

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 41

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DONNA STUDNIARZ

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“ ”

One of Death Valley’s most beguiling features is its remoteness.

That is also one of its dangers.

42 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Top: With barren salt flats, rugged mountains and rolling sand dunes, Death Valley National Park is a vibrant desert.

Above left: Spring wildflowers bloom at the park.

Above: Racetrack Playa, a dry lake bed in Death Valley, is best known for its unique moving rocks.

hence named Death Valley, is, in fact, vibrant, vivid and alive,” he continues. “But differently so, whether you walk through its many canyons, climb to Zabriskie Point, press out to one of the magnificent sand dunes, run down the 600-foot slope to the floor of Ubehebe Crater or, at night, stretch out to absorb the dark night sky. You just have to slow down and pay attention.”

On Racetrack Playa, a dry lake bed about five kilometers long and three kilometers wide, large rocks seem to sail across the desert floor of their own volition, inspiring endless theories. “No one has ever witnessed them shift ground, but the grooves and scratches that trail behind the stones clearly indicate that

Above right: Char Miller, co-author of “Death Valley National Park: A History,” at Badwater Basin.

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Death Valley. It is 282 feet below sea level.

Equally remarkable is that “from that basin, on a clear day, and gazing west, you’ll glimpse Mount Whitney which, at 14,505 feet, is the highest point in the contiguous United States,” says Miller. “Who wouldn’t want to spend time in a place of such singular extremes?

Okay, maybe not in August… .”

Death Valley National Park sprawls across well over a million hectares at the border of California and Nevada. This immensity “blows me away every time I go there,” says Miller.

“To stand at a vista that allows you to take in its vast sweep. To walk out deep into Badwater Basin, and then stop, go silent and listen: you’ll hear little and see so much. What you sense is just how elemental this place is— sand, gravel and rock; a salt flat which reminds that this long stretch of valley was once part of a large inland sea; its palette so unlike any other.”

“This stunning desert that white explorers thought was empty and full of terror, and

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they have done so,” says Miller. “Even those boulders that weigh hundreds of pounds have been on the move.”

Researchers finally discovered in 2014, using time-lapse photography, that rain froze in thin ice sheets on the surface, which thawed and broke due to light winds.

This combination of ice, water and breeze “nudged” the rocks a little at a time, explains Miller. “Mystery solved!”

He recommends preparing for a visit with research on the area’s geology and natural history. Its visitor centers also offer a wealth of information on its cultural history, like its ghost towns, abandoned mines and the native Timbisha Shoshone tribe. The visitor centers are “rich repositories of compelling exhibits, books, films and other information that will introduce you to this extraordinary desert park,” says Miller.

N

“Oh, and if you drive along the road to Badwater [Basin], be on the lookout for a pair of begging coyotes. If you’re lucky, you’ll see them. If they’re lucky, you won’t feed them.”

Death Valley National Park is open yearround and may be visited day or night.

“One of Death Valley’s most beguiling features is its remoteness,” cautions Miller.

“That is also one of its dangers.”

Global Positioning System (GPS) and cellphone navigation systems are next to useless in the park. “Park rangers have an expression, ‘Death by GPS,’ that is no joke,” says Miller. “Also, drink lots of water.

Being careful is the best way to explore this rugged land of extremes.”

Candice Yacono is a magazine and newspaper writer based in southern California.

Desert Life

atural beauty takes every color at the Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary in Gujarat’s Great Rann of Kutch.

Declared a sanctuary in 1986, it is one of the largest seasonal saline wetlands in the world, with an average water depth of 0.5 to 1.5 meters. The sanctuary covers an area of approximately 7,500 square kilometers. By Below: Most visitors autumn each year, around October or to Kutch Desert November, the entire area turns into a saline Wildlife Sanctuary desert as the rainwater dries up. opt for a camel These sun-baked mud flats house a wide safari to travel in and across the Great variety of water birds and wild animals like Rann of Kutch. chinkaras, wolves, pangolins, striped hyenas

and civets. Snakes, monitor lizards and star tortoises are also found at the sanctuary.

Asia’s largest flamingo breeding ground, popularly known as Flamingo City, is located in the mud flats of the Rann, about 10 kilometers from Nir outpost on Kala Dungar. Thousands of the stately pink birds nest in the area. The ancient Harappan city of Dholavira was excavated near Flamingo City, and has attracted worldwide attention. In addition to these archaeological discoveries, paleontologists have found fossils of dinosaurs, crocodiles and whales, and invertebrates like —C.Y. sea urchins.

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Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary

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Above and left: Death Valley has more kilometers of roads than any other U.S. national park. Although around 90 percent of the over 1.3 million hectares of the park is protected in wilderness areas, nearly 1,600 kilometers of paved and dirt roads provide ample opportunities for exploration.

Registered under RNI-6586/60