TRAVEL
MISSED YOUR FLIGHT IN VIETNAM? GOOD
The result of a life on the coast, Where pop culture abounds along with forward thinking people immersed in nature’s gifts. Effortlessly stylish regardless of season.
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TRAVEL TRAVEL JUNE ISSUE
I first heard this after nearly 3 months curating and designing our current issue and I stumbled upon it completely by accident as a sample used in a DJ mix on Soundcloud. It comes from Don Miguel Ruiz who is one of the most spiritually influential people in the world (the Dalai Lama is #1, Don is #72 but who’s counting). Don was also a practicing surgeon until a near fatal car accident changed his perspective ultimately combining old Mexican wisdom with modern insights. It’s a fairly obvious statement to make yet simultaneously amazing how easy it is to forget, coming from a generation that has never experienced wars or conflict and lived, more or less, in peaceful, economic freedom. There’s that moment when you go somewhere new and you stop and realise you’ve been inside a bubble inhaling the same air as everyone else but your eyes are wider now, everything tastes better. This is what it feels like to be alive, for all your senses to ignite at once while adrenalin and serotonin combine inside your brain at the exhilaration of a new experience.
A comfort zone has never been at the top of Joe Murray’s list. With cameras packed, getting deep in the region of Indonesia ‘s Sumatra region is what he does best.
Pramod Kanakath, a freelance travel writer and photographer currently based in Jakarta takes you on a tour of the region’s cultural offerings for the curious palate.
You want holidays, the boss wants you at work. Here are some pearls of wisdom you are likely to hear when you submit that leave form.
Hard Work is its own Reward: This is evidently a lie; at the end of a hard worked month or week, the reward should surely not be another gruelling shift for your graft and toil. In fact, rumour has it that many employees prefer wages and annual leave. There is no I in Team: There will be no arguing with this one; there certainly is no I in team, although the bearer of this wise quote does risk looking like the offending ‘I’ that is not in the team. There is a ‘me’ however. To Assume makes an ASS out of U and Me: This office mantra borders on the ridiculous. There are truly no donkeys involved in assumption (honest). Though it is true that assuming can get people into sticky predicaments, it is also true that, without assumption, there would be no loser in an argument which would be terribly dull. Suckers do not Succeed: Although this makes sense on many levels, careful scrutiny of this phrase unveils the blinding fact that people who do not suck will also sometimes have to fail, using what is learned from the experience in order to avoid future mishaps in life and their job, and also to avoid the possibility of sucking at a far more crucial point in life
You get out what you put in: More specifically, the Boss gets out what you put in. You get a small fraction of it.
Of course you might be job hunting right now so here are some job descriptions your future boss is likely to tempt you with Competitive salary: I’ll pay you less than our competition pays their employees. Join our fast-paced company: I am too cheap to spend time training you. Problem-solving skills a must: You’ll be blamed for everything that goes wrong. Requires team leadership skills: You’ll have the responsibilities of a manager, without the pay or respect.
Despite the fact that I was born in Japan and have relatives here, it’s still somewhat daunting landing in the world’s largest city for the first time with only a hint of where you are going. However you look at it; by either area or numbers, Tokyo - which incorporates the Yokohama metroplitan areahas 36 million inhabitants or about a quarter of the country’s population - is huge. You would think that statistics like that would make for a chaotic place but it moves like a Casio -with pinpoint accuracy or not at all.. Less proverbially though, Tokyo is a sensory overload and no guidebook can prepare you for the experience as light competes with sound and the action is everywhere—coloured, flashing, blinking, blaring. Add the machine-like music that shouts out from unseen speakers and you’ve processed enough information to last a week. And it’s your first day. What is remarkable about Tokyo is how easy it is to find tranquil peace so close to organised chaos such as the Meiji Jingu Shinto shrine in the Shibuya district. Built in the ancient architectural style of Japan with curved tiled roofs, arches, gateways, with steps leading into another courtyard and then another where I watched Shinto monks stand at the shrine, bowing twice, then clapping twice—once to call up to the divine by way of their guiding spirit and a second time to focus on whatever righteous desire they sought.
No bubblegum was harmed in the taking of these photos.
In terms of parks there is also Ueno Park containing the Tokyo National Museum, The Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and is also one of the best places in the city for Hanami parties (mini festivals under sakura trees when they bloom in early spring). There is the Ueno Zoo and The Kaneiji Temple, the site of what was one of the city’s largest and wealthiest temples though much of the temple was destroyed in the a power struggle and war between Japan’s Meiji Emperor and the Tokugawa Shogun. Moving on to a power struggle of my own, I realised it was time to tackle Tokyo’s subway system and make my way to the Harajuku district. By now mostly everyone has heard of Harajuku Fashion or seen some of the fashions or trends coming out of this area either through films like Kill Bill or Lost in Translation as well as just about every social media channel going.
In short, Harajuku is happy cyber punk: smiling fluorescent pink skulls, ripped calico printed with cartoon fruit, Batman comics on mini-skirts, clip-on Mickey Mouse ears upholstered in bandana fabric and glowing jelly bracelets to cover both arms. It’s imaginative, very urban, and embraces the artificial like nothing I’ve ever seen before and in most cases the Harajuku kids were only too willing to pose for a photo. It’s hard to believe that merely an hour ago I was standing at the Shinto Shrine but now facing a veritable barrage of pop culture. For a potentially hot dose of Pop-inspired-cultural-car-crash, head for Takeshita Street where bubble gum isn’t just a food stuff but a genuine design style. While the Swiss can take credit for Helvetica, Harajuku has a moniker of it’s own though it’s important to note that the true art of Harajuku Fashion lies not in the items but the combination of them. Much like a graphic designer uses line, tone, texture, balance and contrast to create an aesthetically engaging message, so too are these kids using them to create a layered canvas to rival any postexpressionist.
Hello Clarice, do you mind if I pick your brain for a moment Welcome to Alcatraz in Shibuya - Ku +81 3 3770 7100.
Finding an Izakaya requires looking for the signature red lanterns out the front and it’s also unlikely anyone there will speak english but everything on the menu is excellent so it wont matter.
But now I need a drink. A good stiff one, preferably somewhere dark and cosy which is convenient because this is a city of hundreds, even thousands of the smallest, coolest little bars you’ve ever seen. Serving world-class food and painstakingly chosen drinks, most of them play great music to go with it. Tokyo is lauded for having the world’s best small bar scene for example: the izakayas: bars right throughout Tokyo that double as tapas-style restaurants, regularly visited by locals for a few flasks of sake or a cold beer with small plates of tantalizingly good food. As this is Tokyo, some weirded out theme bar is on the to-do list and for that there is the Lock-up bar where the wait staff will gladly slap some handcuffs on you, place you in a cell then put your food through the door and similarly there’s Alcatraz found in Shibuya where you can be served dishes such as Dead Chicken (two chicken feet are clasped together in), Penis Sausage (in which a sausage is carved to resemble a severed penis) and Intestine . The place is meant to resemble a Psychiatric hospital so for all the ‘one flew over’ fans this is the place for you. You can catch your own fish at one or be served by Ninjas at another but only after they have given you a special password. See also Vampires, Wonderland and Christ. You can do the math. There are also of course the bars with no theme-no name-tucked-away-tinyalleyways-bars that are the real Tokyo gems from jazz bars with live bands to punk clubs in trendy Shimokitazawa and Gaming bars in Shibuya or Anime bars in Akihabara. The best place to find bars such as these is The Golden Gai district in Shinjaku, a network of tiny alleyways containing bars anywhere they can fit, though a few don’t like foreigners too much but these watering holes are sometimes a respite from the outside world. If your instincts are good you’ll know if you’re welcome the second you walk in. There are no grand monuments or swish bars in Golden Gai. It’s a tiny fragment of old Tokyo that has miraculously survived the development of the 20th century and is a unique record of a way of life that has nearly been bulldozed off the map.The bars advertise themselves with an eclectic mix of artwork and enigmatic logos – ranging from cats and acoustic guitars to painted lips and nudes. A fascinating area to explore at any time of day but it really only comes alive after 10pm when the bars start opening. Given the aural and visual stimuli found in Tokyo it’s easy to get caught up in the pace of Tokyo and not really get to see much of the rest of the country but by all means snap out of it man! The Japanese countryside is some of the most beautiful in the world and there are still vast tracts that haven’t changed all that much in hundreds of years. Likewise, various examples of well-preserved castles and historical buildings can be found throughout Japan. There is one notable place where undisturbed rural beauty combines with lovingly restored architecture to truly immersive effect – the Nakasendo.
The Nakasendo road between Magome and Tsumago, roughly halfway between Kyoto and Tokyo can be the most incredible walkif you get there early enough The Nakasendo was one of five roads used by officials during the Edo period (1600-1867) to travel across the empire, most commonly back and forth between Kyoto and Edo (modern day Tokyo). The road survives today in a recognisable form, though not without the occasional intersection with a major highway and a small number of the posttowns have also been preserved with many buildings serving as living museums, many offering lodgings or Ryokan (similar to a bnb or inn offering outstanding hospitaility or omotenashi). Two such towns are Magome and Tsumago which are located about halfway between Tokyo and Kyoto. Separated by a pleasant 2-3 hour walk,Magome is easily accessible by bus and Tsumago is the the favoured option for an overnight stay. Magome lies on a hill and takes the form of a single stretch of road with a near-unbroken run of homes, shops and restaurants on either side. The town was one of the original 11 stations on the Nakasendo road, a position that allowed it to prosper until it was bypassed by the Chuo railway line in the late stages of the 19th century. As you begin walking to Tsumago, the first thing you reach after leaving Magome is a plateau that overlooks Mount Ena, and it’s a beautiful view. There is space set aside for visitors to sit and marvel, but remember – this is just the beginning, and many equally striking views await you further down the trail. Tsumago still looks like the sort of village you usually only see in samurai films with the Kotoku Temple and the Wakihonjin (19th century inn), though if you really want to experience authenticity an early rise it must be as the tourist buses arrive about 8.30am. There are a selection of ryokan available here and although they are slightly more expensive than you might find in the city, they are of uniformly high standard. Its’s a shame I couldn’t do more in Japan as there certainly is no shortage of things to do. I’ve been told about the hot springs and the Sumos but mabye next time. Actually, definitely next time. Dean Akiyama is an Australian Physics student taking time out to discover his roots.
While other Asian hubs are gradually losing their Asian flavour, the once French colony of Vietnam seems to be retaining its local colours.
Ho Chi Minh City is a place of history and enchantment; one that captivates the imagination with both tradition and elegant new trends. Originally named Saigon of course, the city’s wide boulevards and sidewalk cafes once earned it the title of the ‘Paris of Asia’ and while those boulevards and sense of history still remain, a surprisingly growing contemporary culture from shopping to retro bars and fine dining options is emerging yet with a far less hectic pace than Bangkok. Ho Chi Min City is an ideal destination for an authentic cultural experience (and is only a short flight away from Bangkok, for those with a flexible itinerary). There are a number of things Vietnam is known for, it’s cuisine being the main one such as Pho (traditional Vietnamese noodle soup, pronouced ‘Fuh’) and it’s delicious pork rolls available just about everywhere along with a wide range of culinary dishes guaranteed to put hairs on your chest like fermented scorpion wine or deep-fried snake. If you are extra-keen and not with PETA, you can have the snake killed in front of you (while the true renegades feast on the still-beating heart). Reputable hotels can point you in the direction of a good restaurant with such creatures on the menu, or look out for glass bottles of snake wine known as Ruou thuoc at most markets (the venom is neutralised by the ethanol).
Saunter around a giant Vietnamese market, maybe pick up some snake wine then down a few cold ones at the end of the day. Welcome to Ho Chi Minh.
Hairy chests aside, make a stop at the Ben Thanh Market either in the day-time or during the night markets. This enormous, indoor market in District 1, is cris-crossed with maze-like alleys filled with roughly 3000 tiny shops and stalls. The outer ring of Ben Thanh is a good place to start, but once you are comfortable with the crowds, wander inside for an amusing escapade amongst the locals though but prices can often be inflated for tourists. The lesserknown alternative Tan Dinh (also in district 1) specialises in silks and clothing material.Dong Khoi Street in the old French Quarter of District 1 is a street lined with delightful shops and colonial mansions now converted to haut dining venues. Also known as Silk Street, Dong Khoi has been gaining fame of late as the place to find custom tailored silk clothing in styles from traditional Vietnamese attire to suits, dresses and hand-made, high-quality one of a kind jewelry. By the time the afternoon rolls around on any given day, you are guaranteed to find more than a few locals on street corners and in ramshackle bars across the country, knocking back fresh beer made that day. Bia hoi : Vietnam’s answer to microbrewing, a tradition coming from the Czechs way back when. It’s free of preservatives and therefore should be consumed rather quickly given the humidity and keep in mind that the standard can vary greatly but at about US¢25 a glass a fun time can be had when seeking to find the best. Look out for the ubiquitous hand-scrawled Bia Hoi signs around 3pm.
Broma (left) a hip little bar set inside an old French-colonial-period building sandwiched between two skyscrapers on Nguyen Hue and Temple bar (right)
Chill sky bar on the 26th floor of the AB Tower on 76A Le Lai which much like any Skybar has a dress code but with the view and the atmosphere, this is a moment.
Of course much like a ‘Singapore Sling’ at the Raffles Hotel has to be done, a drink at the famous Saigon Saigon bar at The Caravelle Hotel is in order. It was from this bar, during the final days of the Vietnam War, that journalists could see the front line from their bar stools – cold beers in hand. By the mid-70’s many journalists were covering the action without even leaving those stools. The Caravelle,- also on Dong Khoi Street - forms an integral part of Ho Chi Minh city’s historic past and now prides itself on offering traditional refinement in an ambiance that is welcoming, sophisticated and understatedly elegant. It was refurbished in 1998 from the original French architectural design to its current, chic interior earning it the title of the Best Luxury Hotel Award three years running, making it the leading five-star hotel in Ho Chi Minh. As you would expect, there is much more left over from the ‘American’ war as it’s known locally. 70km northwest of Ho Chi Minh City are the Cu Chi Tunnels, a 200km underground maze of deep, airless, water pipe-sized holes up to three ‘storeys’ and 15ft deep , where Viet Cong soldiers lived, fought and hid from American and South Vietnamese troops. The tunnels have been widened considerably to accommodate the varying girths of travellers and there are exhibitions containing the infamous torture traps the Viet Cong used: leaves covering a bed of foot-long bamboo spikes, and a rolling set of spiked poles ready to snare a soldier up to his waist while back in Ho Chi Minh, the War Remnants exhibition is where Nick Ut ‘s time-stopping photo Napalm Girl still hangs. Needless to say, it’s just as poignant standing there staring at it as it is in newspapers and computer screens. This year being the 40th anniversary of the end of that war, it’s even more profound and is a testament to the resolve of this magnificent country. After my tunnel experience, it was time for some atmosphere and charm and I certainly found it in a Chinese temple turned upscale restaurant and bar known as The Temple Club (Ton That Thiep St). Highly recommended is the tom me - a dish of prawns in tamarind sauce - and the Hanoi-style cha ca: fried monkfish followed by banana coconut cream pudding, served with sesame seeds.
There are a few places such as The Temple club though Ho Chi Min City has also embraced the retro/indie bar ethos with a strong vigour and with a wealth of cultural and historical mish-mash (French, Chinese and American) influences over the last 100 years time it’s almost to be expected. The Vespa sofa bar for example, with vespa saddles as bar seats and an actual Combi van inside the venue features in many a blog post regarding it as a great night out making a nice change from the usual bars in the backpacking street and similarly, Saigon Outcast is a kind of Viet take on Hipster-ism with skate areas and street art incorporated into it’s surrounds though it’s a 20 minute cab ride out of the city so check if an event is on before committing to it. Propaganda on 21 Han Thuyen, District 1 is the place for new directions in Viet fusion-food sitting perfectly beside the re-unification palace, at the very least stop for a mint lemonade, you won’t regret it. Equally special is the Chill sky bar on the 26th floor of the AB Tower on 76A Le Lai which much like any Skybar has a dress code but with the view and the atmosphere, this is a moment. A little closer to the ground level both in real and economic terms is Broma, a hip little bar set inside an old French-colonial-period building on 41 Nguyen Hue. With skyscrapers on either side of you, the contrast and juxtaposition of time vs money stays with you all night. There is no doubt that Ho Chi Min City is both an exciting, post-colonial destination and a rapidly developing city but it’s as much the areas outside the hub that make Vietnam the ideal destination. Getting to Hanoi by train or The Reunification Express, Vietnam’s north-south line is not exactly a dream mode of transportation where standards are concerned but little about it has changed so it’s pretty unique. Built during the period of colonial French-Indochina and mostly destroyed during the War , it was re-opened in 1975 and boasts some magnificent views along the way. A ticket from Hanoi to Ho Chi Min is around US$45 depending on when you go and can be booked 60 days in advance. There is the option of the soft sleeper; named as such because of the mattress as opposed to wooden planks. Make sure you check this when you book as being charged for one and getting the other is common but aside from this, an incredible journey awaits.
The Reunification Express, Vietnam’s northsouth line is not exactly a dream mode of transportation where standards are concerned but little about it has changed so it’s pretty unique.
About 4 hours bus ride out of Hanoi through farmlands and towns in the Red River Delta is the famed Halong Bay in the Quang Ninh Province . It covers about 1553 square kilometres containing 775 islets formed mostly of limestone over a 500 million year period. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994 and for very good reason: This breathtaking landscape unfortunately gets around two million visitors a year so don’t plan on having an idyllic paradise to yourself unless you want to get physical and explore the bay using kayaks, which if you are, you can do a two night tour for around US$150 which will see you strap on headlamps and paddle into numerous dark caves with bats hanging from the roof. Paddle around the bay through another cave and into a lagoon surrounded by limestone cliffs before and you’ll soon arrive at Bai Tu Long Bay and Vung Ha beach. Depending on the tour you are on you may stop at Sung Sot (surprise) cave on Bon Ho Island which receives a fair share of the 2 million visitors I mentioned but the view and the brief history lesson is more than worth it . If luxury and a fixed itinerary is what floats your boat (sorry), a luxury Chinese-style junk is hard to beat. There’s also some luxurious paddle ships, based on a French craft from the early 20th century but one thing you should bear in mind: Often a ‘two day’ tour can involve less than 24 hours actually on a boat after taking travel from Hanoi into account so a bit of research can make the difference as some tours can be a few hunderd dollars (US) per person. When it comes to incredible landscapes, centuries of history and architecture along with an impressively cosmopolitan capital city, Vietnam is somewhere that I imagine will stay special for a long time. Scott Griggs is a 24 year old British Backpacker who “...needs to pull his finger out and start a blog”.
So much time So little money. No problem
Although it’s cheaper to travel than ever before, let’s forget about the popular modern backpacking scenario for now. These days, many backpackers go travelling on a large amount of savings, not caring too much about their budget. Back in the early days of budget travel, backpacking was something that people did with very little money. They saw the world and went home feeling enlightened and ready for a complete change of life, yet they started out with very little. These days, staying in “backpackers” hostels in many locations around the world, you’re more likely to meet the new kind of traveller – those who have saved up a considerable amount of money to go travelling on a strict itinerary consisting of whistle-stop city tours. In spite of this, however, the old-school way of travelling around the world on a shoestring budget is just as viable today as it was decades ago. Some countries and cities are incredibly expensive, no matter what you do. Others are so cheap that you can live like a king on a fraction of the money that you would spend back home on your day-to-day normal life. For citizens of many countries in Western Europe, for example, there are many cheap destinations where the money can go a lot further. For those travelling on a tight budget, the destination itself can make all the difference. While you may have your heart set on going to Norway, for example, you’ll have to be prepared to camp, hitchhike and never go out to restaurants or experience any nightlife. In another country, you can spend the same amount of money yet live a lot better, go out a lot more and, depending on what you want to do, get far more out of your trip. There are various websites which can give you a fairly good idea of the cost of living in different countries around the world. Some countries which are best avoided for budget travel include the Scandinavian countries, much of Western Europe and Japan, though there are plenty of others too. Cheaper destinations tend to be the ones which are more off the beaten track, though again, there are plenty of exceptions. If your primary goal is to enjoy stunning landscape and fascinating history, for example, why not try the Republic of Georgia instead of Norway? If you want to party, why not try Belgrade or Prague instead of Amsterdam? For those who have not travelled alone before, the thought of setting out without anyone to keep you company might seem like an extremely daunting prospect. Travelling alone, however, does afford some great advantages. The most obvious one is that you’re in control. You can go where you want, stay where you want and do what you want. If you like a place, you can stay as long as you like. If you fall in love on your trip, you don’t have to hurry home or rush to the next destination.
The greatest concern that people have about travelling alone is, unsurprisingly, getting lonely. Some people can’t stand their own company for more than a day, but even for those who get lonely easily, travelling alone does not have to be a lonely experience. You’ll be staying in hostels, with host families or with friends who you meet on your trip. A budget traveller won’t be staying in soulless (and pricey) hotels. Budget travellers will be staying in places where there are many other people in exactly the same situation. In fact, many travellers enjoy a far more social experience when on a big trip than they ever would at home. In spite of the advantages of travelling alone, it is still not something for everyone. There are also those of us who have relationship commitments. It has been truthfully said that a long trip abroad on a budget is one of the most powerful tests of a relationship. While it can be enormously trying at times, it’s also a way to get closer than ever to your other half and share your experiences together in a way that neither of you will never forget.
The only way to keep travelling indefinitely without ever having to worry about running out of money and rushing back home is to earn money abroad! From teaching English to getting a web-based job, there are plenty of options for those who want to remain locationindependent on a long-term basis. Working holidays are a popular way to get abroad, do something different and save money in the process, though they rarely actually pay. In fact, they often cost money. The best thing to do is establish some kind of passive income before you set off. If you own your home, then why not rent it out while you’re away? Depending on your home country and the destination you’re going to, the rent money might cover your entire trip. Alternatively, you could invest in an English teaching qualification before you go. In many countries, English teachers are in high demand and you don’t even need a qualification in some places.
If you have a skill which is in high demand on the Internet, such as web design, writing or graphic design, why not put those skills to use? You can seek jobs through online freelancer directories and get work done when you have some time to spare. Another way to earn money on the move is to use the Internet. Consider blogging about your travels and marketing your blog through social networking sites and by swapping links with similar websites. Over time, you can build up a passive income from affiliate programs and advertising.
For a budget traveller, eating at restaurants and cafes is, in most places, a rare luxury. In some countries, shopping in supermarkets is even more expensive than going to a cheap local restaurant. Your food and drink budget will inevitably vary depending on where you are, but there are some universal ways to greatly cut costs. Places such as farmers’ markets or, in some countries, road-side food and drink stands and kiosks, tend to be the cheapest places to get your daily sustenance. What’s more is that, in markets, you tend to get much better quality ingredients which lends to a healthier lifestyle while you’re on the road. If you want to drink fairly regularly and enjoy the local nightlife, your money will vanish frighteningly quickly in some countries while, in other places, vodka and beer are cheaper than water. For most travellers, hotels, expensive hostels or selfcatering accommodation is fine. Fortunately, for those travelling on a shoestring, there are plenty of other options. Many towns and cities have cheap accommodation in the form of hostels or homestays. Hostels certainly aren’t always cheap, but you can compare prices and facilities at popular sites like Hostelworld.com before you go. It’s always good to have a backup plan, even if you don’t want to spend too much time in hostels. You should always be prepared to spend a little money occasionally on accommodation. The other option, and one which is becoming increasingly popular, is joining an international hospitality exchange club. These are online networks in which people gather to share their homes with others as a way to meet new people and make friends. The largest one in the world is Couchsurfing.org, with an enormous three-million members. With Couch Surfing, as with other similar organizations such as Hospitality Club and BeWelcome, travellers contact potential hosts and arrange free accommodation, tours and friendly gatherings. Signing up to such a site is also free, since the whole concept is non-profit. Before you can start to rely on a hospitality exchange as a way to save money on accommodation, however, you will need to establish a reputation and become an active part of the community. Couch Surfing, for example, is in almost every city in the world. Before you set off on your big trip, you may want to find out if there are any local events where you can meet other members from around the world. It’s also a good idea to get a verified account which further helps to improve your credibility with other members.
For many people, the biggest expense is actually getting there as well as to the next destination and the ones after that. Back in the early days of backpacking, hitchhiking was the predominant method of getting from A to B. While hitchhiking definitely has its dangers and is not recommended by many travel guides, it is still the way in which people manage to travel on a shoestring. Hitchhiking varies by country, with each country having its own, unofficial set of rules. Though it’s rare, in some places, you may be expected to pay a modest amount of money to share the costs of fuel. In other countries, hitchhiking is completely normal and the way a lot of locals get around. If you’re travelling with a partner, hitchhiking is a much safer option than it is if you’re travelling alone.
Ridesharing Sites BlaBlaCar.com Carpooling.com hitchhikers.org Apps
iThumb Rideshare4less
Fortunately, in this day of widespread Internet usage, hitchhiking has spread to the web. There are various websites where you can find rides in advance. People who use these sites either do so as a way to meet new people or as a way to share fuel costs on a long trip. “Online” hitchhiking offers the advantage of being a safer and more reliable alternative.
#hitchhike #rideshare #autostop Facebook
/hitchhiking /groups/FREE.NOMADS
Working on cruiseships is probably one of the most fun and cost-effective way of getting around. There are usually some long hours involved and pay isnt great but you have zero expenses. Some of the social activities once in port make for primetime viewing.
For those who are anxious about hitchhiking, there are not really any other alternatives unless you are taking your own car or, even more adventurously, travelling by bicycle or on foot. If you have enough money, travelling by bus is often the cheapest option, although in some countries, trains are by far the most cost-effective option. If you’re backpacking around Russia or other CIS countries, for example, travelling by train third-class can be extremely cheap, though far from comfortable! In much of Europe, the cheapest way to travel between major cities is often to fly. With budget airlines offering ridiculously cheap prices (provided you are flexible with booking and travel times), flying is often the most cost-effective way of getting between two popular destinations in Europe.
There are a number of countries where it is ridiculously cheap to buy a second hand car in decent condition Australia and UK being two of them. European countries have differing laws about this but pretty much everywhere you’ll need a fixed address for insurance and registration.
When it comes to short notice trips coaches seem to be the perfect answer particularly in Europe. Companies like Megabus are known to offer tickets on certain routes for £1.
In many cases, flying a numebr of budget airlines to get to one place can be cheaper than one flight with the big airlines of course you may need alot of spare time for the connections as well as a bit of planning and luck plus the lame luggage restrictions.
You can actuualy book a ticket as a passenger on many cargo ships such as the Bank Line voyage from Auckland, in New Zealand, to Singapore. It takes 40-45 days to sail what you can fly in just under 12 hours but it visits nearly every island in the Pacific on the way and it stops for 2-3 days. The days of working for your ride are long over due to modern union rules.
Hitchhiking is amazingly still a very common thing in Europe and to a lesser extent in USA and Australia. Much like couchsurfing, it’s a bit hit and miss but if you have the available time, go for it.
Always European, always Caffitaly
From markets, mosques and mountainous coffee farms to villages of the Kerinci valley, the cultural exchange of Sumatra and surrounds has limitless value.
Unlike other exotic locations across South-east Asia such as Bali and Phuket, Sumatra in Indonesia is little known to most tourists. Those who are familiar with it often come mostly for its beaches like those found on Sabat or the lush jungles and exotic wildlife of places like Kerinci Natioanl Park. But visitors who come to Sumatra only for these kind of experiences will be missing out on so much of what Sumatra has to offer. My journey through this lush island paradise began in Medan, the 3rd largest Indonesian city and the gateway for those wanting to explore the Sumatra province of Banda Aceh. Like many major cities, Medan is seemingly always on the go and offers little in the way of unique views and adventures. As soon as I overcome jet-lag, I catch a mini bus to a mountainous region known as the Gayo. Known mostly for producing large quantities of coffee for global brands like Starbucks, this region is an infrequent tourist destination which are just the kind of places I like to go. After 13 cramped hours in the mini-bus, I am more than eager to get out and start exploring the markets, mosques and mountainous coffee farms. My base for exploring the Gayo Region is the mountain city of Takengon. While small and without much to offer most tourists, what this enclave lacks in bells and whistles it makes up in rich culture and welcoming locals. With my cameras in tow, I set out to get lost, make new friends and see what adventures will emerge. Over the course of three days, I am invited in to a local coffee farmer’s home to sample the world famous Kopi Luawk coffee, meet three Indonesian adventurers who are driving their 4x4 jeep through lush and roadless jungles of Indonesia from Banda Aceh to Medan and experience hours of conversation, coffee and cultural exchanges with locals I meet in markets and mosques. When my time in Takengon comes to an end I make the long trek back to Medan enroute to Bengkulu via Jarkata. Like Takengon, Bengkulu offers little to most tourists other than serving as a launching pad for exploring local beaches and the rugged mountains of central Sumatra.
Like Medan, Bengkulu is only a way stop for me as I make my way to Padang and Bukittinggi via Kerinci, which is home to the largest National Park in South East Asia. Just like in Medan, a cab or mini-bus which are really the only options for travelers looking to get around most of Sumatra. On my way to Padang and Bukittinggi, I spend three days in Kerinci styaing with locals and exploring the many numerous villages and valleys of the Kerinci valley. Again like Takengon, these villages offer little to tourists that are looking to be entertained. But for those who can let go of their agenda and go with the flow of life like locals, there is no shortage to the rich cultural experiences to be had. Because of my willingness to get lost and be guided by locals, I find myself teaching English to two dozen Indonesian high school students who all want pictures then creating images of local cinnamon farmers and staying with a local guide who has guided for National Geographic explorers, heads of states and many other kinds of visitors to the region. Regrettably, my time in Kerinci ends too soon and I make the 12 hour trek to Padang and Bukkittinggi. Of all the places I have visited in Sumatra, these two destinations are by far the most known by tourists. Bukkittinggi offers rich cultural experiences like cultural dances and horse-drawn carriages as well as beautiful natural scenery all within minutes of the downtown center.
My three days in Padang and Bukkittinggi go by too fast and before I know it, it’s time for me to make the long trek home. As I reflect on my journey around this lush and rugged Island, I am thankful not only for the natural beauty and ruggedness of Sumatra’s landscapes but also the hospitality and friendliness of the local people who welcomed me into their homes and opened their lives to me.
Joe Murray is a photojournalist and documentary photographer whose assignments have taken him through crowded urban slums, dusty deserts, steamy jungles and tipsy Indonesian canoes working with people from all kinds of cultures, religions, socioeconomic levels, walks of life and ages.Based in Clarkston, Georgia USA, Joe’s main focus is on creating images of global people and places for personal projects and assignments with non-profits, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), social entrepreneurships and other socially-responsible companies and corporations.
The ancient art of haggling is alive and well, not just in the souks of Marrakesh and Egypt, or the handicraft markets of the Andes and Asia, but also in the impromptu side street stalls and summer markets of Europe.
Do your research Before you venture out into a shop or market, decide on how much you are willing to spend on specific items. An easy rule of thumb to follow is to never buy anything on your first day in an unfamiliar place. Scope out what’s for sale, and for how much through observation, asking your tour guide or other travelers. Only after obtaining an idea of how much you should expect to pay should you enter into negotiations for that brass lantern or wool carpet. Go in low There is no standard for an initial offer. Even when products are tagged with a price, ask the seller how much they are. In more tourist oriented markets and bazaars, the opening price given by the vendor can be as much as four times what he or she is willing to sell it for. Offer a third of how much you are willing to pay for a product, and bargain your way up from there. Be unimpressed Vendors around the world are consummate performers on the stage of life. Play your part by refusing to be impressed. Act interested, but not too interested. You can use silence to your advantage during negotiations. Pausing as if considering an offer can cause sellers to waver and possibly drop the price a little more.
Find a flaw Let the seller persuade you to buy, not the other way around. Discuss the things you don’t like about the product, like the inconvenience of hauling a large carpet through the rest of your journeys, or the fragility of hand blown glass sculptures. Emphasize its flaws but remain respectful of the workmanship and craftsman. If you do find a small scratch or imperfection, you may be able to use this as leverage to lower the price further. Ask your partner Especially effective in the Middle East, where the majority of purchase decisions are vetoed by husbands, pretending to consult with a disapproving partner can yield an understanding look from the seller and a sharp reduction in price. This also works in Europe for both sexes. If the vendor refuses to budge from a high price, simply say that your husband or wife holds the purse strings and name your price – the ball is now in the seller’s court. Show them the money Cash is king in most parts of the world. You can ask for a discount if offering to pay in cash. In some overseas countries, certain currencies are given a better cash exchange rate in shops than credit exchange rates. Offering to pay in cold hard cash can result in a significant discount on the final price. Pick your battles As in any transaction, you must be prepared to walk away. Haggling is an art of give and take – sometimes you may simply be asking for a price that the seller is unable to give. You may be able to find another vendor with similar goods and lower prices; however in either case, the only thing to do in this situation is to walk away. Sometimes, the seller may call you back with a better price. Buy in bulk Buying in larger quantities gives you more negotiating power and can be very effective in haggling. Bring a friend along, having decided before hand on the goods and prices you are both willing to pay for. Purchasing a few items from one vendor will usually entitle you to a discount, or at least a few freebies thrown in for good measure.
Chiang Mai
Thailand Bangkok
Andaman Sea Gulf of Thailand Phuket & Krabi
Taking a long boat to Koh Phi Phi has long been a reason for never returning to work again
Koh Samui
Chow down on the crunchy delicacies of Thailand. Some Fried grasshopper or Spicy locusts perhaps. A number of places are around the city sell these so don’t be afraid to try.
Take a cable car up Doi Suthep; a mountain that overlooks the city of Chiang Mai to the north. Atop the mountain lies the city’s most famous temple, Wat Phratet. The temple’s gold chedi, or rooftop, can be seen for miles making it a landmark.
Drink in the artsy part of Chiang Mai. Nimmanhemmin is always buzzing but withot so many tourists. Chic bars and quirky restaurants as well as plenty of quiet spots where you can chill in Chiang Mai.
Wat Rong Khun: Quite a unique Buddhist temple in the northern town of Chiang Rai.A fairy tale façade: While the outside is all snow and ice the inside is pure fire due to the inside art
Andaman Sea The Kanchanaburi waterfalls at Erawan National Park is where the cascading falls continue into the deep Mae Nam Khwae Yai River.It’s worth the 2km hike
Nothing beats a bit of pad thai or spicy green curry cooked on the street corner with an intoxicating array of aromas and textures.
Walk the streets in Pattaya.Here you’ll find some of the best nightlife in Thailand. Bars, go-go joints and neon signs and blaring music combine to make one hellova one night stopover.
Climb 1237 steps to the Tiger Temple. It’s a great site with incredible views. It’s not everyday you see monks feeding tigers.
Take a bamboo raft through the jungle. While it may not be the most stable of transportation, it certainly is the most fun.
Spend part of your morning at the floating market in Bangkok where you can pick up some souvenirs as you rock back and forth in a wooden boat.
Andaman Sea
The resting place for the reclining Buddha, a 43m long golden statue.Impressive. Located just opposite the Grand Palace it’s easy to get to and one to be crossed off the list.
Forget cups or glasses the bucket is the only way to sup on a cocktail. Cocktails are cheap, tasty and easy to carry from place to place.
Explore the deep caves of Krabi. There’s a lot of climbing and getting dirty so sturdy shoes are recommended.
Bangla Road at night time. Phuket’s liveliest road, The bars spill out onto the streets so it can be difficult to know which venues music you are hearing.
Break out the glow sticks at a Full Moon party, one of the biggest and best allnight raves. Koh Phangan is where backpackers flock to this native ritual of the full moon as well as half moon, quarter moon and ‘who needs a moon anyway’ parties.
The deep waters of Thailand are some of the worlds best dive sites and many of the islands offer lessons in deep sea diving right up to PADI certified.
New and seasoned divers alike may be overwhelmed and confused by the vast number of diving agencies available. Each agency has something unique to offer, and each is totally separate from all the others. This often means total confusion when it comes to deciding how and where to certify. The four most popular agencies are PADI, SSI, BSAC, and CMAS. Being familiar with these four will give you a good start, and you’ll likely find that you want to do your certification with one of them. It’s really not quite as complicated as it seems, and with a brief overview of each, all the guesswork will be taken away.
PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, is the global industry body for SCUBA diving and is the world’s leader when it comes to training. as well as covering everything from learning to dive to learning how to conserve the environment. They have a plethora of courses available, and there really is something for every type of diver. If you are just getting started and want to learn the basics, there is a PADI course for you. If you are already certified and want to be able to teach others they can receive their teaching certifications through PADI as well. PADI also teaches you indepth information about the heavy equipment you lug around underwater, as well as where to find it all. There are also resorts and official shops around the world, each stocked with every scuba gadget you could imagine. Learning with PADI, you’ll be introduced to foundations such as Project AWARE and the National Geographic Society. These organisations dedicate everything they’ve got to help preserve our world’s waters. Whether you are PADI certified or not, you can sign up at any PADI resort or shop to volunteer with this organisation.
The British Sub-Aqua Club is basically a giant group of people from all over the world who share the same love of diving. BSAC is the leading dive club in the UK and it also boasts being the National Governing Body of the sport,offering diver training and development programs that are recognised internationally and work through a network of other clubs and centres the world over. One great thing about BSAC is that while they are a network for dive-lovers, they welcome anyone. If you are already certified and just looking for other divers like yourself, you’ll find a place here. Likewise, those who are looking to become certified, are just learning to dive, or have never been diving will also find that BSAC is a great place to start. When you look at Scuba Schools International, you would never believe that it started with just a couple of divers wanting to help people learn about scuba diving on the internet though SSI has now been around for more than 40 years, and they pride themselves on offering the gold standard in training, certification, education, resources, and dive instructor preparation all over the world. SSI has its own dive centres, and since 1970 has expanded to over 300 different centres in over 110 different countries.
Officially the Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques, CMAS offers entry level certification for recreational scuba divers. Their standard is to train divers who are completely competent and are ready to try their fins in open water with the help of an experienced diver. Those looking for the very basic training and certification may want to consider CMAS as their starting point. The program offered by CMAS allows for diving depths of down to 69 feet but, their courses do not include nitrox use or night diving.
Koh Tao, Thailand Meaning turtle island in Thai, it’s previously plentiful local population of hawksbill and green sea turtles made this Southern Island one of South East Asia’s dive hotspots though turtles can still be spotted whilst diving many of the island’s infamous 20+ sites. Harmles and huge, Whale sharks are also founde here. Best Seasons: March, April and May are divers paradise. Avoid Novemeber and December (water not very clear) but September and October are quiet season but clear enough. To gain your PADI Open Water Diver qualification the price ranges from 9,000 to 10,000 baht. This takes about four days to complete and qualifies you to dive any where in the World, to 18m deep! Koh Phi Phi, Thailand Located within a National Marine Park, the two islands Phi Phi Ley and Phi Phi Don provide dramatic soft coral walls and an abundance of sea life unlike Thailand’s other dive sites. Best Seasons: Similar to Koh Tao but pricier due to more nightlife in the area.The four day PADI Open Water Diver course will cost you around 12,900 baht. Perhentian Islands, Malaysia These beautiful coral-fringed islands are just 10miles from the Northeastern coast of Malaysia and are home to a number of species of turtles and (harmless) sharks. two main islands Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil Island and a number of smaller uninhabited ones. Besar is slightly more family-friendly, while Kecil is the most popular with backpackers due to it’s abundance of cheap accommodation. However all are protected, with Marine Park status. Best Seasons: April and October. For the rest of the year monsoon season shuts it down entirely, making the seas too rough to cross. just 240 Malaysian Ringgit (approx. £50/2500 Thai baht), while to complete your PADI Open Water Diver course costs 1,100 Malaysia Ringgit (approx. £225/11,135 Thai baht).
Other worthy mentions: Indonesia; Raja Ampat Islands, Banda Islands, Komodo Island Thailand; Similan Islands Malaysia; Sipadan Island, Tioman Island Papua New Guinea; Witu Islands,
Coron Island, the Philippines Most famous for it’s Japanese wrecks which sank during World War II nearly seventy years ago, Coron Island’s calm waters give even the least experienced of divers the opportunity to swim with the fishes. twenty five dive sites and twelve wrecks out of a possible twenty four discovered, there is miles of exquisite oceanfloor to keep you busy. Wreck dives do need planning though and some of the harder to reach sites are for the more experienced only… Best Seasons: Off seasons spans from May to August, but the rest of the year conditions are great with minimal current within Coron bay. PADI Open Water rings in at 14,850 Philippine Peso (approx. £210/10,400 Thai baht). ‘Wreck Diver’ specialty qualification for 13,450 Philippine Peso (approx. £190/9,400 Thai baht). Better than malaysia.
In a city such as Seoul, there’s no shortage of things to do at any hour.
Seoul Namsan Tower (previous page) doesn’t actually stay open until particularly late at night, and actually closes at midnight which makes it a great place to get a birds-eye view of the level of vibrancy of this city. Heading to the top of the tower after dark is a must for a panoramic view over sprawling Seoul, which is transformed into a sea of illuminated skyscrapers and neon-lit streets at night. Situated on top of a mountain (of course), Seoul Namsan Tower is hugely popular with Korean couples, many of whom leave a padlock shut tight on the railings outside Seoul Tower to signify their endless love (there, see what happens when you cant sleep). Whether you are visiting Seoul with your partner, family, friends or alone, the breathtaking night views from Seoul Namsan Tower make it an essential part of any tour of Seoul’s nightlife and the best preparation for your slow descent in to madness. Here we go... Koreans are obsessed with computer games. In fact, South Korea is one of the few countries in the world where being good at Starcraft can earn you a decent living and make you into a minor celebrity. But playing these types of games in Korea isn’t the same solitary, bedroom-bound experience that it is in the rest of the world.
Seoul is littered with PC ‘bangs’. ‘Bang’ is the Korean word for ‘room’, so is generally used for just about any group activity within 4 walls. Similar to an internet cafe with the main important difference that all the PCs are loaded with popular games such as Starcraft or League of Legends. If PC games aren’t really your thing, perhaps a Playstation bang will be more to your tastes. Very few Koreans have a video games console at home, so Seoul provides plenty of places where Koreans can access a widescreen TV and the latest games titles. Evidently, the only game most people really care about though is Winning 11 (the Asian title for FIFA’s rival, Pro Evolution Soccer), and any Playstation bang you visit in Seoul will be full of guys playing it at full volume.
Catching a K-Pop band can be done at just about any time though where, when and how much you pay will, like in the west be a deciding factor in quality. Korean K-Pop star Rain (below) might require some planning for a show of this calibre
And of course there are some who simply wish to watch a screen as opposed to interacting with it and that’s more than catered for in South Korea whether it’s at a cinema or a ‘DVD bang’, it’s never too late to watch the latest movies in Seoul. Most big cinemas in Seoul will have screenings all night long. If you want a little bit more privacy, along with a far greater range of movies to choose from, you can head to one of Seoul’s DVD or ‘multi’ bangs, many of which are open through the night and from a western point of view it’s not unlike hiring a loungeroom. Comfort is paramount in Seoul’s DVD and multi bangs so most DVD and multi bangs ask you to take your shoes off inside your private room where you’’l generally find a cushioned floor or oversized sofa from which to view the enormous television or wall-projected video. In Korean culture, it’s unusual for young people to live away from their families before marriage, which has a lot to do with the popularity of these establishments in Seoul; they’re one of the few places young couples can go to spend a night in total privacy. There are also the 24 hour Gyms or Jimibangs,a kind of spa that is massively popular throughout Seoul and the rest of Korea. You’ll have no problem finding
Currently the 9th best club in the world (DJ Mag, 2014) Octagon has everything you can possibly imagine a club to have and more.
one anywhere in Seoul, no matter what time of day or night it is. Here you can soak in all manner of hot baths, get a rough scrub down from the staff, sweat it out in a sauna and generally purify yourself of the stress that a massive city like Seoul can foster. Jimjilbangs also double as an extremely cheap accommodation option, with a space in a jimjilbang’s sleeping area and full use of its spa facilities costing as little as $5 a night. Koreans work long hours, with Seoul’s office workers often facing unpredictable requests to do overtime long into the night. As a result, many of Seoul’s facilities operate 24 hours, day and night, so that the city’s massive workforce can access facilities whenever their schedules permit. The overall facilities are much the same as in any western country, but jimjilbangs are a uniquely Korean experience.
Of course, nightclubs and karaoke bars are not so unique, however there aren’t many places (if any) that indulge in them with the fervour of the Koreans. You don’t have to walk far to find a rowdy Korean restaurant or 24-hour kareoke room or Noraebang.Even so, there are three areas in particular that stand out from the crowd as Seoul’s party districts: Gangnam, Hongdae and Itaewon. Doubtless, you have heard the word Gangnam, a district made famous in Psy’s global smash hit Gangnam Style. What you might not have realised is that the song actually satirises the pretty young things of Seoul’s wealthiest district, who spend their days sitting in coffee shops on streets such as Rodeo street (yes, as in Drive) and their nights tearing up nightclubs such as Answer or Club Octagon where you could, with the right connections, enjoy private VIP bunkers, a swimming pool for the club’s dancers and a VIP lift.
Not far from Rodeo Street’s conspicuous consumption is Moonjar, a hot spot for Gangnam’s beautiful people with a much more flexible door policy. Here you’ll find a post-modernish collision of old and new in which worn floorboards, old school-style desks and vintage lamps meet contemporary music and attitude. The snacks a seafood and green onion pancake (haemul pajeon) and spicy octopus - are tasty and the liquor is the verygulpable milky makgeolli rice wine. Nearby Apujeong and Chungdam are two of the hottest, hippest night spots in Seoul, but they’re also the most expensive as it’s Korea’s fashion mecca, formed as a cultural zone where you would go for leading fashion trends,international brand shops with high-quality goods, hip hop fashion shops, and accessory shops. Theaters such as Cineplus, and Nanta Theater (non-verbal performances) have also moved into the area so it’s now a full-blown cultural zone. Leaning more toward the student fraternity (and therefore more affordable) is the Hongdae, which just might be the largest nightlife area on the planet, let alone in Seoul. ‘Dae’ is the Korean word for university, and Hongdae is the area surrounding Hongik University, Seoul’s most modern and cutting edge arts university. With a number of other universities also surrounding Hongdae, this part of Korea has become a teeming network of bars, clubs and restaurants, with young Korean indie bands often playing out on the streets at night time, trying to make a name for themselves. As you do. Finally, if you’re tiring of Korea, a little slice of home can be found in Itaewon - wherever you come from. South Korea is one of the world’s most ethnically homogeneous countries, but you’d never guess that if you’d landed directly in Itaewon, which hosts foreigners from all over the world. Naturally, these foreign settlers in Korea have brought little bits of their home cultures over with them, so expect to see Irish pubs nestled up beside Indian restaurants, or Mexican food being sold right next to Thai. Whatever your tastes, you’re never likely to go hungry or bored for long at nightime in Seoul. With a remarkably low crime rate, the only real danger when indulging in South Korea’s nightlife is that you might not get home before sunrise. Christine Wilinkson is a fine arts student from Los Angeles making up for the gap year she never took.
My Thai street food exploration started right in the heart of Bangkok. Sukhumvit street has it all – the Thai fried noodles and tom yam, meat sate (grilled meat). Most of these roadside restaurants are known by their display rather than by their names. Fresh Ravioli and Chinese radish at the I particularly loved tom yam (100 Thai Baht, about 3 Floating Market, Damnoen Saduak USD) in an eatery next to Orchid Café, not far from Tune Hotel. Coming out of the eatery, my eyes pounced on a street vendor who was preparing eye-catching, sweet-looking Thai-styled crepes. Cheap and tasty, I had it for an afterbite as I made my way through the crowds to another part of the city. The weekend Chatuchak market was my next area for food exploration. I referred to fried noodles earlier when I was at Sukhumvit, but I am going to taste it here. Yes, this is Phad Thai, the most popular dish in Thailand, also the Thai version of the Chinese noodles. Phad Thai is actually fried noodles with bean curd, garlic chives, dried shrimp, tamarind juice and palm sugar. You may add chillies to make it spicy. All along the market there are food stations, but coming out of the interiors of the market you will find the ‘official’ food place by the roadside. Filled with Phad Thai, I walked to a corner where another outlet was selling Nam Kaeng Sai – a combination of crushed ice, jelly, dough, chestnuts and coconut cream on top. Cool for a dessert! The next day, I set off to Damnoen Saduak, the famed floating market in Ratchaburi, an hour’s ride from Bangkok. Riding on a boat along the market, I bought mango sticky rice from a floating vendor. This is another must try delicacy when you are in Thailand. Food is plenty here as well and as I wound my way back to the starting point of my boat ride, I met with a lady selling fresh ravioli, the name of the food written on a card and displayed next to her. It’s time to try a bit of street food near a beach area. I headed to Pattaya, a popular beach destination, two hours road trip from Bangkok. I occupied one of the hundreds of empty easy chairs on a Sunday morning. Empty because people are still in their beds after Saturday night’s revelry. No matter what, the vendors wouldn’t give it up and there comes one holding a basket full of steamed crabs and shrimps. I bought a crab and a small portion of Tempura. He also had dried fish, but its smell has always repelled me.
Street market and food at Kota Kinabalu harbour. Inset: A vendor roasting chestnuts at a street in Kuala Lumpur
I decided to combine Singapore and Malaysia because of a high volume of similarities in the cuisines – the Malay, the Peranakan and the Indian varieties. I started with Maxwell Food Centre near Chinatown in Singapore where Hainanese Chicken rice is probably the best to taste. Chicken is cooked in sub-boiled temperatures and the rice is prepared with coconut milk and the dish is served with boiled eggs, slices of cucumber, leafy vegetables and soup. In the evening, I headed to Hong Lim Food Centre where Laksa greeted me with its alluring aroma. Laksa is a noodle soup, borne out of Chinese and Malay traditions. Served in spicy soup, Laksa contains rice noodles and prawn, chicken or fish. Though a tiny state, Singapore has its own diversity as I learn at Little India the next day. At Komala Vilas, I started savouring the south Indian delicacy of Masala Dosa (loosely translated as Indian crepe) served with coconut chutney and sambar (thick lentil soup). Staying within Little India, I took a walk along Serangoon Road and took a bite of curry puff which can be very addictive with its spicy potatoes. My Malaysian cuisine hunt started at one of the small restaurants inside Central Market in downtown Kuala Lumpur. Nasi Lemak on the table was an exciting sight. Cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf, Nasi Lemak is a typical Malaysian delicacy that is also popular throughout the Malay Peninsula. It is usually served with lamb or chicken curry, boiled egg, peanuts and dried fish and spicy chilli paste, known as sambal. Walking along Brickfields which is KL’s Little India, I found the ubiquitous roti canai maintaining its inviting appearance. Served with chicken curry, roti canai is the smaller version of the Indian prata (fried flour-based pancake). Another addictive dish. Malaysia being much bigger than Singapore, has its own regional varieties though they cannot boast of a huge diversity as is seen in either Thailand or Indonesia. I flew to Sabah, the Malaysian part of Borneo to find out how it differs from the capital city. Kota Kinabalu, the provincial capital is an unassuming town with enough food varieties to be one of the food destinations of the country. Staying away from the typical Malaysian delicacies, I started looking for dishes that are unique to Sabah. At Lido Food Square, I came across a Chinese food outlet selling Sang Nyuk Mee which is called Sabah Pork Noodle. If you don’t like to taste the organs of the pig, you should tell the vendors in advance so they will prepare the meat only for you. Sandakan spring noodle and egg dumpling is another dish you must try when in Kota Kinabalu. The delicacy is actually part of Sandakan, very much within Sabah. What stole my attention on the streets here are the innumerable roadside restaurants selling ‘Muslim’ food. All of them display a rich variety of spicy dishes inspired by Indian recipes. Rice with different types of chicken, meat and fish curries are laid out in buffet style. The colours are mesmerising.
If there is one country which can match the glitz and glamour of Thai street food, it will be Indonesia. Evenings in Jakarta, Surabaya and Bandung – the three biggest cities – are filled with diners sitting on benches of tented makeshift restaurants next to big buildings. What I love the most here is Sate – grilled chicken or meat. Served with the yummy peanut sauce this is a very popular dish throughout the country. Walk around Benhil in central Jakarta in the evenings and you end up drooling at the many varieties of Indonesian dishes that include Mie Aceh ( noodles prepared in the Acehnese style), Nasi Padang (another popular dish in the country, serving rice with fried chicken, potato cake, vegetables, fried egg) and Mie Bakso (noodle soup with meatballs). The street food scene in Surabaya and Bandung are not that different, except that these two cities carry some regional varities. While Batagor Bandung (fried fish dumpling) is popular in Bandung, Surabaya serves its Kue Lapis (cake) as dessert. While in Bandung, don’t forget to visit the atmospheric, open air Paskal Food Market. This humongous food rendezvous boasts of selling more than 1,000 dishes. Being cheap, it is loved by everyone – from students to international tourists. You will bump into some of Bandung’s best street food vendors like Sate Maulana Yusuf, a famous satay stall from Dago and the Bola Ubi shop, which sells fried sweet potato balls, originally from Jalan Gardu Jati.
Women preparing sate in central Java
You wouldn’t fancy a culinary tour of Cambodia, but I am sure its humble offerings can be combined with a tour of the ancient Angkor temples in Siem Reap. Mind you, it is possible to find street food in the vicinities of Angkor Thom. As you finish your tour of the Bayon Temple inside the Angkor Thom complex you will find some restaurants close to the Elephants Terrace. Here, sitting under the shades of huge trees, get your Chicken Amok and rice. Amok is Cambodia’s most popular dish, prepared in a curry style with carrots, beans and cucumbers. As I cycled my way back to Angkor Wat from here, I found a lady on a bicycle with a basketful of tiny bamboo sticks and my guide alerted me to Kallan (or Kelan), coconut rice cake and red beans stuffed into the bamboo pole. Hmm, tasted like heaven! Right: Kallan and vendor selling it, Amok and rice, Cambodia’s national dish
Snack seller at Bay View, Puerto Princesa
My first food experience in the Philippines was at a motel on the way to El Nido from Puerto Princesa on the island of Palawan. I had pork adobo (stewed pork meat in a mixture of garlic, vinegar, and soy sauce) and pakbet (mixed vegetables steamed in fish or shrimp sauce) along with rice. Excellent dish and was truly a fitting introduction to my culinary tour of the region. However, as my tour got into the second day, I found out why Philippines is the odd one out in the region. I was introduced to Tamilok, fresh woodworm which is served with rice. This is a specialty of Palawan. To be honest, I did not have the gumption to try this, but as my friends told me it tastes more or less like oyster. I didn’t leave Philippines without trying one of its exotic dishes. Crocowali, deep-fried croc meat at one of the many restaurants at Bayview in Puerto Princesa was a thriller. Served with soy sauce it tasted really great. Two blocks away, I found lechon (roasted suckling pig) being displayed for sale.
Though it may lay claim to the eighth wonder of the world, Cambodia’s real treasure is its people. With an un-dying optimism and spirit, the person who departs Cambodia is not the same that arrived.
The Cambodian leg of my South-east-Asian odyssey begins in Ho Chi Minh City, still deciding and working out how I should make my way to Phnom Penh, the options being train, boat and plane with the last two available in varying standards. From what I’d been told up to this point, if you have the time, a truly enlightening way to enter Phnom Penh is on board one of the many ferries that travel from Vietnam along the Mekong, passing tiny villages, floating markets and fishing boats which would have been great if they were still running but alas, no. Choosing the alternative, I make it to Chau Doc by bus and spend a night there which was fine by me as the place is lovely. A speedboat in the morning was on the cards though a good breakfast beforehand is highly recommended and alot of water as the trip can be several sweaty hours and depending on the time of year, the river can flow in both directions due to the tides thus creating potential delays. One very alluring thing about travelling the Mekong Delta is the charming insight you get into everyday life of this region, the kind that has been untouched by tourism or what we call modern life. Our speedboat driver tells me in his rather impressive english, about the floatingt markets of Cai Be and Sa Dec; colourful riverside markets where you’ll find tropical fruits tumbling and frogs twitching and any number of local delicacies more likely to be found spinning webs or climbing branches than at any corner store. The Mekong river courses through both Vietnam and Cambodia and while the two countries share some similarities and a torturous modern history, they’re culturally more distinct than you might think.
The lakeside villages (both floating and stilted) of Tonle Sap, a massive freshwater lake that dominates the map of Cambodia. Here you will get a glimpse of genuine and relatively unchanged Cambodian life. There are a few boat tours of the Tonle Sap revealing it’s diverse underwater life and ecology. Places such as this are becoming fewer as years pass.
I’d been living in Vietnam for about 6 months by this point and it was easy to see how much it had been influenced by China over the last 1000 years from incense-swirling temples and Confucian ideals to bonsai and calligraphy. Cambodia on the other hand looks towards Thailand (and even India) for inspiration with it’s main religion being Buddhism. The traditional wai greeting, curries and Hindu architecture are obvious. It’s not long before we arrive at Phnom Penh near the Palm tree-lined Sisowath Quay Riverwalk, alongside the west bank of the Tonle Sap river where it meets the Mekong. Strolling the riverwalk after dark you will come upon the night market as well as the opportunity to ride in one of the cycle rickshaws as I did though unfortunately these cycles are slowly being replaced by motorbikes and tuk-tuks right across south-east Asia though some like the one I’m on continue. Footsteps in Asia, which custom-designs tours of Cambodia and Vietnam use cyclos supported by a non-government organisation called Cyclo Centre that is helping to keep the tradition alive and thus food on the table for those who might not have had otherwise. Taking one of these rides gives you a closeup view of the city and its people including Wat Phnom, the capital’s tallest temple and The Royal palace of Bangkok. The recling Budha isn’t far away either
a gathering place during the annual Pchum Ben, the festival of the dead. According to legend the temple was built in 1373 to house several Buddha statues found washed up on the banks of the Mekong by a woman named Penh. The next stop is the Royal palace in the heart of Phnom Penh, a majestic palace complex using classic Khmer architecture, elaborate gilding, soaring spires and golden temple nagas (carvings of mythical reptilian creatures) where you’ll find a lush French-style garden housing life-size sculptures of Khmer warriors and Buddhas in a range of poses. Within the complex there is also the Temple of the Emerald Buddha containing religious and cultuaral artefacs with its floors covered with more than 4000 silver tiles. The National Museum in Phnom Penh is the best place to learn about the local culture. A red sandstone colonial-era Khmer building containing sculptures, ceramics, textiles, glass, pottery and bronzes dating back as far as the 12th century.
4 hrs drive NW of Phnom Penh on the Cambodian coast, a weeks stay at Siem Reap is recommended to see all that there
As is well known, Cambodia’s more recent history is tagged with grief and sorrow and although The Khmer Rouge ruled Cambodia for less than four years, the devastation wrought on this part of the world is unfathomable. Even when visiting the numerous sites, it’s difficult to process. Choeung Ek for example, is a very sombre and rather macabre place where Pol Pot’s murderous Khmer Rouge slaughtered an estimated 20,000 Cambodians and buried them in mass shallow graves and is a 35-minute drive from Phnom Penh Entrance costs $US3. Toul Sleng, on the fringes of downtown Phnom Penh is a former high school that became known as S21, a centre of torture and interrogation of political prisoners that is now a genocide museum showing in graphic detail the beatings and humiliations dealt to more than 17,000 who passed through the doors. Beyond the city, there is also of course Angkor Wat Temple complex at Siem Reap, one of the country’s main tourist attractionsand the most recognizable symbol of Cambodia with it adorning the national flag. Far from being solely a tourist attraction, Angkor Wat is also an Kep, located on a small peninsula faces active prominent religious center Bokor national park and Vietnam’s that was named a UNESCO World Pho Quoc island and is the place Heritage Site in 1992. for amazing sunsets. With its five beautiful towers, the complex is built around Hindu mythology as it was intended to represent a sacred mountain known as Mount Meru. Mount Meru, which is thought to be the abode of the gods as well as the center of the universe, was later adopted by Buddhism and integrated into Buddhist mythology.
Following on from Angkor, there is Kep, a former French resort that is slowly returning to life potentially becoming the next Goa, but not any time soon. Kep’s bay is beautiful and the jungle rubs up against the the town’s backstreets, though the beach is, well, not much of a beach though there are plenty of local boatmen are willing to take you out to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island), where you’ll find a number of good beaches and fabulous seafood restaurants. And for the more hardened traveller: Kampot, about 20km away, is a bumpy twohour ride up Bokor Mountain, one of the few places in south-east Asia with enough intact forest to maintain a population of elephants and tigers roaming free. Not many walking tours for this one. Aside from the monuments and scenery, Siem Reap is also for the bravest of heart and stomach with a vast array of exotic food sold throughout the city. If you have always wondered how snakes, frogs, worms, crickets, beetles, wild birds, cockroaches, and tarantulas taste, this is the place to satisfy your curiosity and then there is also the slightly less brag-worthy but equally delicious, Amok or Khmer Curry - Cambodia’s national dish and one of the must-try meals in Cambodia. The traditional recipe uses fish, but Amok is now cooked with a variety of ingredients such as vegetables, beef, chicken, and even fruits to suit the customer’s preferences. If after all the sights have been seen and you still want to discover more of the city but at your own at your own pace, renting a bike is one of the best ways to explore Siem Reap with there being numerous establishments in and around that offer bike rentals very cheaply or ask your hotel recpetion. As someone who as cycled many parts of the world,I can vouch for it being truly something special. Numerous markets are also scattered around Siem Reap, but the Noon and Night Market is the only one that is open until the wee hours of the night and has a lot of shops and stalls where you can buy sculptures, clothes, authentic Khmer fabrics, Hit the markets at spices, utensils, hammocks, and more. Getting through customs with them is Siem Reap for a taste of another story for another time. of Cambodian life.