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HOTEL CELLULAR
City Guide London 2013
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Welcome note from NIVEA CELLULAR To commemorate the very exciting global launch of NIVEA CELLULAR Anti-Age and to say thank you for attending, we have created this limited-edition guide of London for you. We have chosen to include the key landmarks and must-see attractions during your stay, and also insider knowledge of restaurants and bars off the normal, tourist track. We hope this guide will help you enjoy your free time while in London as our guest, and be a lasting gift from us for you to use if and when you return to this great city.
The changing face of London In keeping with the HOTEL CELLULAR theme, we have referred to the boroughs of London as “cells” for the purpose of this guide. With so many “cells“ making up London, many of which offer something completely different to the next, this city can be a tough place to navigate and understand. However, considered one of the world’s leading global cities, London remains an international capital of culture, music, education, fashion, politics, finance and trade. It’s a city always regenerating, with the focus currently on the East owing to the Summer Olympics and Paralympics last year. The London Legacy Development Corporation (LLDC) has already started its £300 million construction project to transform the Olympic site into the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park; a new visitor destination, offering venues and attractions alongside new homes, schools and businesses, set to open on 27th July 2013. London is an expert at combining the old with the new, constantly giving areas a new lease of life. And then there’s the people – this is the multicultural centre of Europe, with over eight million inhabitants who collectively speak over 300 different languages. The sheer vastness of the city – its sprawling boroughs, numerous landmarks and sites, diversity of people and places, and its continuous renewal and change – can make it hard to know where to start. That is where we come in; to help make your stay as enjoyable as possible and to assist you in planning this visit and the next.
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INTRODUCTION
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CONTENTS Page 6-7
NIVEA CELLULAR MUST-SEE
Page 8
THINGS TO DO ON A RAINY DAY
Page 9-10
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Page 12-13
CELLS OF THE CITY TO VISIT
Page 15-20
ARCHITOUR THROUGH THE CELLS OF LONDON
Page 21-29
A CELLULAR DAY (24 HOURS)
Page 30-38
CELLULAR URBAN LIFE
Page 40-46
SHOPPING CELLS
Page 47-58
NOTES
Page 59+
MAPS
NIVEA CELLULAR suggests the following top 10 landmarks and attractions to enjoy during your time in London. See the coloured-coded map on the inside back cover for locations. 1. Olympic Stadium Constructed primarily to host the 2012 Summer Olympics and Paralympics, it will now be the home for West Ham football club, with work on the stadium set to begin in late-2013. In the meantime, it will host various concerts and sporting events beginning in July 2013. 11.1km (6.9miles) drive from HOTEL CELLULAR 2. Regent’s Park Originally used as hunting grounds for Henry VIII, the park is now home to London Zoo and an enchanting Open Air Theatre. There are also beautiful horticultural gardens, a boating area, sports pitches, and children’s playgrounds. 6.8km (4.2miles) drive from HOTEL CELLULAR 3. British Museum Established in 1753, the museum is dedicated to human history and culture.
Its permanent collection is among the largest and most comprehensive in existence. See p25-26 1.7km (1.1 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (20 minute walk) 4. London Eye At 135m this attraction is the world’s largest cantilevered observation wheel and offers unrivalled views of the city. 1.1km (0.7 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (13 minute walk) 5. National Gallery The National Gallery is one of London’s most important museums, with a collection of paintings spanning the period from the 13th to the 19th century. It is housed at Trafalgar Square, in an impressive neo-classical building. 550m (0.3 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (5 minute walk) 6. Buckingham Palace One of London’s most popular tourist attractions,
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NIVEA CELLULAR MUST-SEE
07 the Palace is the most famous of all the palaces in the city. The palace is still used as the official residence of the Queen. 1.5km (0.9 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (14 minute walk) 7. Tate Modern Britain’s national gallery of international modern art is the most-visited modern art gallery in the world and is housed in Sir Giles Gilbert Scott’s former power station. 2.1km (1.3 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (25 minute walk) 8. St. Paul’s Cathedral The cathedral is one of the most famous and most recognisable sights of London, with its dome dominating the skyline for 300 years. At 365 feet (111 m) high, it was the tallest building in London from 1710 to 1962. 2.1km (1.3 miles) from HOTEL CELLULAR (25 minute walk)
9. City Hall In 2002, the Mayor of London moved from the classic County Hall to this modern glass and steel structure. It houses the Greater London Authority, London’s city government. See p17 4.8km (3 miles) drive from HOTEL CELLULAR 10. 30 St Mary Axe Officially known by its street address, however nicknamed the Gherkin, this skyscraper is in the financial centre of London. The building has received several awards for its unique design. 4.6km (2.8 miles) drive from HOTEL CELLULAR
Britain is renowned for its wet weather, so to ensure you don’t over-hydrate your skin if the rain comes, here are a few ideas to keep you warm and dry. Enjoy a shopping spree in Selfridges, one of London’s most famous department stores, known for its array of designer labels, A-list shoppers and grandeur. This 104-year-old store is also home to a spa and HIX Champagne and caviar bar, so you really can make a day of it. 400 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB. www.selfridges.com Take an educational stroll around the British Museum (p16 and 25), absobing the wealth of human history and celllike design of the Great Court. Settle down for the evening at supperclub (p32); a restaurant, cocktail bar, club and gallery rolled into one.
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THINGS TO DO ON A RAINY DAY
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ESSENTIAL INFORMATION Facts, Figures and Useful Information HOTEL CELLULAR 10 Whitehall Pl London SW1A 2BD Tel: 020 7930 8181
Emergency Services Emergencies (Police, Ambulance, Fire): Tel: 999
Tourist Office 1 Regent Street, City of Westminster SW1Y 4 Tel: 020 7808 3801
Transport All transport for London TFL: www.tfl.gov.uk
London Facts Size: 1,579sq km Population: 8.2 million Currency: British Pound Telephone codes: UK: 44 / London: 020 Time: GMT
Cost of public transport Bus: £2.40 single cash fare; £1.40 single Oyster Card fare; £19.60 7-day pass Tube: From £4.50 single cash fare; £2.10 single Oyster Card fare; £8.80 anytime day pass; £30.40 7-day travel card Taxis London Black Cabs Tel: 07779 336 612 Call a Cab: 020 8901 4444
Tipping in restaurants and bars A discretionary 12.5% tip is often added to restaurant bills. If it isn’t added, a 10% tip for the waiting staff is customary. People tend not to tip for drinks in bars and pubs, but feel free to do so. Tipping taxis It‘s polite to tip 10-15% of the taxi fare. However, most people simply round up the fare to the nearest £1 and tell the driver to “keep the change”. Greetings A handshake is the most common form of greeting among British people and is standard procedure when meeting a new person. Driving Drive on the left-hand side of the road. Escalators Stand on the right-hand side of escalators; walk on the left hand-side. Queuing British people are renowned for forming queues. Always queue to be served in a shop or when in a line for a taxi etc. It is also polite to wait to be seated in a restaurant; however, it is acceptable to take a seat in more informal establishments i.e. bars, cafes.
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TOP TIPS ON BRITISH ETIQUETTE
Areas you need to know and why To help you explore the various “cells“ of the city we have chosen the most interesting boroughs that make up the face of London (see below and the inside back cover). Each neighbourhood, landmark, venue and attraction throughout this guide has been colour-coded for your ease.
EAST This is a vibrant and culturally interesting area, which is the fastest growing destination in the city. From edgy bars and pubs, to vintage shops and markets, this area offers something for everyone. The Stratford area of London’s East End has been comprehensively redeveloped through the creation of the London 2012 Olympics site.
WEST Very run-down until the 1980s, Notting Hill has been regenerated and is now has a contemporary reputation as an affluent and fashionable area. It’s famous for the annual Notting Hill Carnival, which takes place every August. It’s also home to Portobello Road Market, open Monday to Friday (opening hours vary, see pXX).
CENTRAL London’s West End is the heart of the modern city, famed for its theatres, grand restaurants and colourful Soho nightlife. Marylebone is the now the food and interior destination, while Mayfair has the grandest hotels. Worldfamous landmarks include Nelson’s Column, in Trafalgar Square and the statue of Eros in Piccadilly Circus.
NORTH Kings Cross formerly had a reputation for being run-down. However, rapid regeneration since the mid-1990s has rendered this reputation largely out-of-date. It has undergone an ambition urban facelift, with St Pancras as the epicentre; the terminus of the Eurostar rail service.
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CELLS OF THE CITY TO VISIT
13 THE CITY The City is today a major business and financial centre, ranking as the leading centre of global finance. It offers a mix of Victorian pubs, largely deserted and closed during the weekend, although the lack of residents is attracting hip clubs. SOUTH EAST The South Bank of the River Thames was slower to develop than the north, but has caught up and now forms a significant tourist district, with entertainment and arts hubs including the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Royal National Theatre, and the London Eye. The Design Museum has also been significant in regenerating the area.
SOUTH WEST Home to some of the most expensive properties on the planet, South West London offers the famous Kings Road – traditionally associated with fashion figures such as Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood – and Chelsea football club, which has the wealthiest supporters in England. Chelsea is an upmarket neighbourhood equivalent to that of New York’s Upper East Side and Los Angeles’ Beverly Hills. WESTMINSTER This area has a large concentration of London’s historic and prestigious landmarks and visitor attractions, including the Palace of Westminster, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, and Westminster Cathedral. Our tip is to visit the Tate Britain and then take the river boat to the South Bank for fantastic views.
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ARCHITOUR THROUGH THE CELLS OF LONDON The Profile of the City Skyline The buildings we have included in this section are iconic and an important part of the city’s development, with our choices inspired by NIVEA CELLULAR through their design. London is a master at combining the old with the new, and offers its residents and visitors some of the world’s most architecturally interesting buildings. Take South East London for example; iconic, historical buildings such as the Tower Bridge and Southwark Cathedral just minutes walk from modern wonders the Shard and City Hall. Notable recent buildings include the 1980s skyscraper Tower 42, the Lloyd’s building and the “Gherkin”, all in the City. London’s generally low-rise designs make these skyscrapers, and others such as One Canada Square, Canary Wharf and the BT Tower in Fitzrovia, prominent against the city’s horizon. High-rise development is restricted if it obstructs protected views of St. Paul’s Cathedral. However, there are plans for more skyscrapers in London, with 12 buildings under construction to rise above 100 metres (328 ft) and a further 44 approved to date.
16 The Great Court of the British Museum The Queen Elizabeth II Great Court acts as a central linking point for the British Museum. Designed by the engineers Buro Happold and the architects Foster and Partners, the cell-like roof is a glass and steel construction, with 1,656 uniquely shaped panes of glass. It is the largest covered square in Europe. Great Russell St, London WC1B 3DG www.britishmuseum.org
17 City Hall This building is the headquarters of the Greater London Authority, which comprises of the Mayor of London and the London Assembly. This striking rounded glass building, based in Southwark, has been designed to have many features that make it environmentally-friendly, including solar panels on the roof. 110 The Queens Walk, LONDON, SE1 2AA www.london.gov.uk/city-hall
18 Beddington Zero Energy Development (BedZED) BedZED is an environmentally friendly housing development designed by architect, Bill Dunster. It’s the largest UK ecocommunity project experimenting in sustainable living, based in Hackbridge. Greater London and a perfect example of innovative, zero-energy, sustainable housing on a multi-unit scale. The homes have no central heating or air conditioning, but instead use of natural heating and lighting. London Borough of Sutton
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02 The Shard Designed by Renzo Piano, an Italian architect previously best known for creating Paris’s Pompidou Centre in collaboration with Britain’s Richard Rogers, the Shard is a 95-storey skyscraper in London. Standing 309.6 metres (1,016 ft) high, the Shard is the second-tallest building in Europe. The glass-clad pyramidal tower opened to the public on 1 February 2013 and contains premium office space, a hotel, luxury residences, retail space, restaurants, a spa and a five-storey public viewing gallery and open-air observation deck – the UK’s highest – on the 72nd floor, 245 metres high (804 ft). The Shard, Tooley St, SE1 9EX www.the-shard.com/shard
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A CELLULAR DAY (24 HOURS) With so many layers and areas to explore in London, it can be overwhelming deciding where to begin. To really enjoy and see the best of this great city, you need to get the balance of the hustle and bustle of packed public transport, famous attractions and shopping areas, with the calmness of London’s beautiful parks and enjoyable restaurants and bars. Our day starts with a hearty breakfast at The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell (opposite), offering an unusual and delicious menu, before heading to Covent Garden to enjoy a morning of shopping and exploring the cobbled streets in the surrounding area (p23). For some history and cultural learnings, take the short walk to the British Museum. Afternoon tea in London is a must and The Berkeley hotel, under the same management as Claridge’s and The Connaught in Mayfair, offers a modern, creative twist on a British tradition (p27). Now would be a good time to enjoy the peace of one of London’s many green spaces, and just a 15-minute stroll away from The Berkely, St. James’s Park offers that oasis of calm and a spot of bird watching – home to Pelicans and 14 other types of waterfowl. To bring the day to a close we decided to head to Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill off Regent Street (p29), an incredible seafood restaurant with an impressive menu and relaxed atmosphere.
Photograph by John Carey
22 09:00 The Modern Pantry Chef Anna Hansen has become well known for her inventive flavour combinations, and breakfast at The Modern Pantry is no exception. Fruit salad is dressed with lime and rosewater syrup, eggs are served with chorizo and caramelised plantain fritters, and there’s even a sugar-cured prawn omelette with smoked chilli sambal. Always busy but never hectic, it’s an ideal spot for relaxing in serene surroundings. 47-48 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ, www.themodernpantry.co.uk
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24 10:30 Covent Garden Whether you want hip fashion, unique gifts, rare sweets or one-off handmade jewellery, Covent Garden is a great place to visit. And there’s much exploring to do with its cell-like layout of the boutique shops. You can stock up on the latest urban street wear, funky cosmetics and shoes on Neal Street, check out imaginative arts and crafts at Covent Garden Market or just window shop around the stores. Don’t miss Floral Street, Monmouth Street, St Martin’s Courtyard, Shorts Gardens, Seven Dials and Neal’s Yard for a true taste of London’s most distinctive shopping location. Central London, WC2 www.coventgardenlondonuk.com
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26 12:30 British Museum Whether you want to learn about art from the Ice Ages, the history of classical Greece or Egyptian artefacts, to name by a few options, the British Museum has it all. Its permanent collection of over eight million works originates from all continents, illustrating and documenting the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present time. Great Russell St, London WC1B 3DG www.britishmuseum.org
27 14:30 The Berkeley London Afternoon tea in London is a traditional must, and The Berkeley London offers a modern, designer twist on the quintessentially British pastime. PrĂŞt-Ă -Portea, is inspired by the themes and colours of the fashion world, with the menu transformed every six months to follow the changing seasons in fashion. And in the surroundings of a luxury five-star, deluxe hotel, located in Wilton Place, Knightsbridge you will be dining in style. Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RL www.the-berkeley.co.uk
28 16:30 St. James‘s Park Walk off your cake and sandwich indulgences, and get away from the bustle of the busy streets to relax in St. James’s Park, the oldest Royal Park in the city. The 23-hectare (58 acre) park boasts beautiful gardens and a lake, which is home to 15 species of waterfowl. The park is located in the heart of London, very close to Whitehall and Downing Street, with popular sights nearby, including Horse Guards, Trafalgar Square and Westminster Abbey. SW1A 2BJ www.royalparks.org.uk
29 20:00 Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill We know seafood is packed full of vitamins and minerals that help keep our skin healthy, so it’s only right NIVEA CELLULAR ends your day in one of the best seafood restaurants in London. Opened in 1916, Michelin-star chef Richard Corrigan is now at the helm. Enjoy Champagne and oysters in style, before moving on to choose from an array of delicious treats, such as mussels, lobster and fish of the day. The restaurant also offers fish and seafood master classes on select dates with head chef Michael Lynch (visit the website for more detail). 11-15 Swallow Street, London W1B 4DG www.bentleys.org
NIVEA CELLULAR pick of cafes, restaurants, bars and nightclubs London’s eating and nightlife offerings rival any city, with some of the best restaurants in the world. Covent Garden is the new location for one of 2013’s biggest restaurant launches, from New York restaurateur Keith McNally, who opened Balthazar brasserie in February 2013 (p35). The pop-up and quirky dining experience in London is booming, with residents looking for new and unusual experiences from secret supper clubs, to dining in old car garages and tobacco warehouses. The gastro pub scene is now established at the heart of the dining scene with The Roebuck in Chiswick and The Cadogan Arms in Chelsea just two examples of delicious, relaxed dining. Upper Street in Angel, North London, offers every type and style of restaurant you could possibly want, from pubs, to fine dining, chains to independent, family-run eateries. When it comes to bars and nightlife, Dalston in North-East London is the latest trendy location on the map, and offers some of the best jazz in the city. For more glamorous venues, head to the West End.
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CELLULAR URBAN LIFE
Photograph by Paul Storrie
31 Nightjar Blink and you will easily miss this bar. From the outside all you can see is quite simply a big wooden door without a sign or real indication of what is inside. However, walk down a flight of stairs and step into a 1920’s scene of candlelit tables, tin cup cocktails, jazz and swing bands. There is no other bar like this in London. 129 City Road, Old Street, London EC1V 1JB www.barnightjar.com
32 Supperclub This venue is a restaurant, cocktail bar, club and gallery rolled into one. The experience at supperclub “revolves around stimulating your senses and releasing your creativity�, in a futuristic, state-ofthe-art atmosphere. Supperclub brings you great food and drinks, in bed. It entertains you all night with alternative cabaret artists and performers, before finishing everything off with a big party. 12 Acklam Rd London W10 5QZ www.supperclub.com
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Borough Market For lovers of fresh, seasonal produce and delicious food, look no further than Borough Market. Opened in 1851, it’s London’s most renowned food market offering visitors exceptional British and international produce. Many of the stallholders grow, rear or bake the food they sell and it has become a fashionable place to buy food. The market has been promoted by British television chefs and has been used as a film set for films such as Bridget Jones’s Diary (2001) and Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban (2004). The full market is open Thursday to Saturday (see the website for opening hours), with lunch available Monday to Wednesday from 10:00 – 15:00. 8 Southwark St, London SE1 1TL www.boroughmarket.org.uk
35 Balthazar Fifteen years on from the launch of his New York Parisian-style brasserie, Keith McNally has opened a London branch of Balthazar. The restaurant is housed in the old Theatre Museum, in a building called “The Flower Cellars�, sharing the space with The London Film Museum. The menu includes an abundance of fruits de mer, as well as a wide selection of classical French brasserie and bistro dishes. The Balthazar bakery next door serves its own house-made artisan breads, as well as a wide selection of homemade pastries, salads and sandwiches to take away. 4-6 Russell Street, London WC2B 5HZ. www.balthazarlondon.com
36 Portside Parlour Much like NIVEA CELLULAR Anti-Age’s effect on your cells, turn back time in East London’s very first underground pop-up rum cocktail bar, open for a limited time until at least May 2013. Without insider knowledge, it would be unlikely to find, located in Broadway Market hidden in the basement of a small bar. Once inside, it’s as though you have stepped back in time, with a low-ceilinged, candlelit basement stuffed with red leather sofas, guilt mirrors, rickety tables, old books and oil lamps. It offers a truly unusual experience off the beaten London track. 63 - 65 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH www.portsideparlour.co.uk
37 The Wapping Project Restaurant This is a perfect example of regenerating an old space into a contemporary restaurant. Installed in a former power station on the north bank of the Thames, east of Tower Bridge, The Wapping Project Restaurant serves modern Mediterranean food and an all Australian wine list. With an emphasis on fish and seafood, the menu offers a blend of the contemporary and the comforting, and includes some very tempting cocktails. You can finish off your Wapping Project experience with a tour of the exhibition space. Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, Tower Hamlets, Wapping Wall, London E1W 3SG www.thewappingproject.com
38 Pizza East Kentish Town This modern pizzeria is one of three in London owned by the Soho House group, serving rustic pizzas made from traditional, seasonal ingredients. The interior of all the restaurants is inspired by ‘industrial chic’, with bare concrete ceilings, ventilation pipes and wooden tables. The group also owns Dirty Burger, essentially a corrugated iron shed in the car park behind Pizza East Kentish Town. It’s simple yet effective, with one large table to share with fellow diners, and nothing on the menu but crinkle chips, onion fries, milkshakes and arguable the best burgers in London. 79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL www.pizzaeastkentishtown.com
London is world-renowned for its shopping, from department stores to designer retailers, to independent boutiques, vintage shops and market stalls. Whatever your price tag, this city offers something for everyone. The West End homes some of the world’s most famous streets for shopping. The birthplace of the fashion and cultural revolution during the Swinging 60s, Carnaby Street in the Soho district of London is home to numerous fashion and lifestyle retailers, including a large number of independent fashion boutiques. Liberty is a worldrenowned department store, famous for its floral and graphic prints (see p43). Bond Street and Regent Street is the designer hub of London, Oxford Street is home to world-famous Selfridges. For an edgier offering, you will be spoiled for choice in Shoreditch, East London. Menswear store Present (see p45) is a great example of this, and boasts the best barista in town. And it’s not just fashion, with some incredible food outlets along Marylebone High Street, including La Fromagerie, feature cheese maturing cellars with on-site affinage and walk in cheese rooms (see p42).
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SHOPPING CELLS
41 Lesley Craze Gallery This is considered one of Europe’s leading centres for arty, contemporary jewellery. Established and internationally celebrated for nearly 30 years, it represents up to 100 different artists from the world. A range of materials are used, including both precious and semi-precious metals. There’s also selection of contemporary textiles, including scarves, ties, cushions and wall hangings on offer. 33 - 35a Clerkenwell Green, EC1R 0DU www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk
42 La Fromagerie If you’re a lover of good quality cheeses, La Fromagerie is the place for you. Farmhouse cheeses are sourced directly from artisan producers, and matured in La Fromagerie’s maturing rooms to perfect ripeness by in-house affineurs. It also has a shop floor dedicated to seasonal fruits and vegetables, freshly baked breads, excellent extra virgin olive oils and other essential condiments. The on-site kitchen produces homemade jams and chutneys, biscuits and cakes along with a daily changing kitchen menu of salads, soups and other seasonal dishes to take away or enjoy in the cafe. 2-6 Moxon Street, W1U 4EW www.lafromagerie.co.uk
01 Liberty Founded in 1875 by Arthur Liberty, this department store offers a wide range of sophisticated, designer brands from fashion and jewellery to homeware and stationary. It’s also famous for its floral and graphic print designs and the third floor’s central atrium is home to the Liberty Art Fabrics collection, which introduces new designs and reused updated prints each season, as well as the haberdashery department. Regent St, London W1B 5AH www.liberty.co.uk
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45 Present Present is the perfect shop for the stylish modern man, of which London has plenty. It houses international lifestyle products and designers from around the world, offering everything from cool stationary, comic books and cycling manuals and clothing, footwear and accessories. It even boasts award-winning coffee; Gwylim Davies who runs the in-store beverage bar won the World Barista Championship in April 2009. 140 Shoreditch High St London E1 6JE www.present-london.com
46 Portobello Market Portobello Market is one of the most famous street markets in the world. It has been a market since the 1800s, but became particularly famous for its antiques in the 1950s. Now numerous stalls offer everything from fruit and bread to posters, clothes, ceramics and music. Main market days are Friday and Saturday, with a smaller market running Monday to Thursday. www.portobelloroadmarket.org
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NOTES Sketches and memos
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LONDON A colour-coded guide
EAST CENTRAL WEST NORTH THE CITY SOUTH EAST SOUTH WEST WESTMINSTER