COVER STORY

THE ESSENCE OF DENIM

Slowear’s new entry teaches us that style comes before fashion, with a high-end product with a distinctly Italian feel, that stands out for quality, aesthetics and durability

Valeria Oneto

Incotex Blue Divison continues its growth and affirmation path in the scene of tailoring fivepocket trousers. The Venetian luxury denim brand, which is part of the Slowear group together with Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, and Montedoro, presents at Pitti Uomo Florence its fourth collection combining the unmistakable style of Incotex with the manufacturing capacity of Giada, a leading company in the production of luxury denim. Two companies, by the way, attentive to responsible production, both in environmental and social terms. Creativity, innovation and technical expertise are the elements that characterize Incotex FW 23/24 collection, with three lines expressing the soul of the brand: Superior stands out for its wide range of fits and fabrics; Couture is the perfect expression of Incotex’s sartorial expertise applied to denim, with exclusive manufacturing details typical of the tradition of tailormade trousers; and finally Lab, the most innovative and avant-garde line. A return to the essence and at the same time a redefinition of denim in an innovative key. We have interviewed Marco Bernardini, CEO of Slowear.

How and when did you have the idea for Incotex Blue Division? The idea emerged during the pandemic from the desire to expand Incotex’s offer into the denim universe. Our ambition was to propose, as we already to with our trousers, a unique and innovative product.

Why did you choose Giada S.p.A. for this partnership? Giada was chosen for its supreme technical expertise and manufacturing capacity in denim, and we counted that merging out respective skills would bring virtuous results.

What is the company’s, and in particular Incotex Blue Division’s, approach to sustainability? In May 2022 Slowear has become a Benefit Corporation, with the goal of achieving B Corp certification in 2023. As confirmed by our group name, we have always been a purpose-driven company that responds to social and environmental standards. As for Giada, considering that denim is one of the most polluting industries in the world, its productive facilities use recycled water and production technologies based on a true “Green Denim Culture.”

Can you explain us the concept of “luxury denim”? The concept starts from product construction, in our case sartorial style, based on more than 70 years of expertise. Our brand is lauded for producing “the best trousers in the world.” Then comes the selection of

The Venice-based company Slowear

SS 23: DENIM MEETS SARTORIAL

For SS 23 Incotex, the brand lauded for producing “the best trousers in the world,” continues, with Blue Division, its exploration of models and fits declined in denim. A combination of expertise and craftmanship, research and experimentation, taste and avant-garde, where denim meets tailoring, redefining its boundaries in the men’s wardrobe. The three lines of the SS 23 collection – Couture, Lab and Superior – include tailored trousers, Incotex’s signature product, and five-pocket casual models with exclusive manufacturing details, all made with sophisticated engineering techniques and available in 30 different fabrics and 45 washes.

A photo of the Couture line of Incotex Blue Division for SS 23

A casual low waist model of the Couture line for SS 23

fabrics: apparently denim fabrics are all identical, but actuality it is the material itself that makes the difference. And finally, fundamental are the finishing touches, in our case tailoring: for example, the belt thinner in the back and wider on the front, but also the use of pleats or profile pockets.

What does it mean to you to be made in Italy? How important is this value? Also on Slowear products, Italianity has always been a fundamental value. Although for us it is more related to the concept of lifestyle than to Made in Italy in itself. A lifestyle that is expressed through aesthetics and style, to the skillful use of colours and to an interesting offer of volumes. A dressing capacity in which style comes before fashion. All our denim models are made in Italy and another aspect of the Italianity of our offer is the great craftsmanship and supreme manufacturing expertise of Giada. Which are the stylistic dictates that characterize the brand and make it unique? “Denim Meets Sartorial” is the mission of this project. A great sartorial expertise expressed in denim garments that become collector’s items for those who love this style.

In terms of distribution, what are the markets on which the brand is present? Since the beginning this brand has proved to be a very interesting project and quickly had success on the European, northern European, Italian and Japanese markets.

How is your distribution organised? Are you planning new openings? Our group is organized into two divisions: the first manages individual brands (Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, Montedoro) and the other the retail network. The brands

A hybrid corduroy denim model of the Lab line for FW 23

are now divided among 400 selected retailers around the world. At the same time, this year we have opened two stores: one in Rome, inside Rinascente Fiume, and another in New York, on Lafayette Street, with a new concept and larger spaces compared to our traditional stores. In 2023 we aim to consolidate our retail network of more than 30 stores and our e-commerce, and then in 2024 restart the expansion of physical retail with five new openings.

In terms of numbers, how much counts e-commerce? Our online platform generates about 15 percent of the multichannel revenues.

In terms of turnover, how did 2022 end? Which are the forecast for 2023? In 2022 revenues registered a total growth of about 22% compared to 2021. In 2023 we aim to grow by more than 25% by investing a lot in new collections.

How much does Italy count compared to foreign markets? In terms of total revenues, around 30% are derived from Italy and 70% from abroad.

What are the novelty of the fourth Incotex Blue Division collection for FW 23/24? The new FW 23/24 collection includes three lines: Superior, Couture, and Lab. The Superior line is characterized by a wide choice of fits and fabrics, with stretchy denims and

Above: Denim chino trousers with contrasting patterns Under: Five-pocket model of the Lab line for FW 23/24, with an original handmade style contrast

a new six-pocket model. The Couture line is the perfect expression of sartorial expertise applied to denim, with exclusive manufacturing details typical of sartorial trousers. The Lab line represents the most innovative and avant-garde approach to denim, both in cutting and dyeing processes, with tailored garments and a great attention to hybrid models which mix different materials and styles.