SGBW_1607

INSULATION OUTERWEAR ISSUE 1607 | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

The Weekly Digital Magazine for the Active Lifestyle Market

CEO Group Publisher James Hartford jhartford@sportsonesource.com 303.578.7004

Editorial Director David Clucas clucas@sportsonesource.com 303.578.7007 Senior Business Editor Thomas J. Ryan tryan@sportsonesource.com 917.375.4699 Associate Editor | Sports & Fitness Editor Jahla Seppanen jahla@sportsonesource.com 303.997.7302 Contributing Editor Charlie Lunan clunan@SportsOneSource.com 704.996.4463

Creative Director Teresa Hartford teresa@sportsonesource.com

Art Director Chris Loving-Campos chrislc@sportsonesource.com

Media Sales Buz Keenan buz@sportsonesource.com 201.887.5112 Circulation & Subscriptions admin@sportsonesource.com 303.997.7302 SGB Media Print Magazine: SGB Magazine Digital Magazine: SGB Weekly Executive Newsletters: Sports Executive Weekly, The B.O.S.S. Report Email Updates: SGB Today Daily Emails: SGB Update, SGB Apparel, SGB Footwear, SGB Outdoor, SGB Hook & Bullet, SGB Sports & Fitness SportsOneSource Research SSI VantagePoint, SSI Research, SSI Data Career Services SGBJobs.com

HOW TO REACH US

Actionable Weekly Sales Trend Reporting for the Active Lifestyle Market To schedule a personal demo or to learn more about the SSI Data Point-of-Sale t rend-reporting platform, contact SportsOneSource Client Solutions at 303.997.7302 o r email Solutions@SportsOneSource.com or visit SSIData.com

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: SportsOneSource, 1075 E. South Boulder Road, Suite 300, Louisville, CO 80027 or email SGBMedia@SportsOneSource.com. Letters and emails should include full contact information. We reserve the right to edit letters for clarity and brevity. Send manuscripts and photographs to SGBMedia@SportsOneSource.com or to Submissions Editor at the address above. The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material.

Copyright 2016 SportsOneSource, LLC. All rights reserved.

The opinions expressed by writers and contributors to SGB WEEKLY are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. SGB WEEKLY is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in SGB WEEKLY may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. SGB WEEKLY is published weekly

by SportsOneSource.

Powered by

Powered By 1075 E. South Boulder Road • Third Floor Louisville • CO • 80027 SportsOneSource.com | 303.997.7302

SportsOneSource.com | 303.997.7302

insulation outerwear ISSUE 1607 | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

The Weekly Digital Magazine for the Active Lifestyle Market

Photo courtesy Voormi

MARKET REPORT 5 SportsOneSource Opens 2016 SGB 40 Under 40 Award Nominations

By The Numbers 7 Bug Off! Zika Scare Expected to Boost Insect-Repellent Gear Sales 8 Arc’teryx President Departs for Hunter Boots

9 Skechers Doubles Down on Meb 10 Movers & Shakers 24 Industry Calendar

ONE ON ONE 12 James Fisher VP of Product, Ibex, on how wool has outgrown its winter-only reputation

MADE IN THE U.S.A. 14 Duckworth’s U.S. Journey— Two Former Duofold Execs and a Montana Sheep Rancher Keep American-Made Wool Stateside

ACTIVE LIFESTYLE INSULATION OUTERWEAR 18 Goldilocks Insulation That is Just Right Cover photo courtesy Nau

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

3

4 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

MARKET REPORT

BY THE NUMBERS 6

2016

Saturday-morning winter running events to be sponsored by New Balance in Boston this season in exchange for the Massachusetts' Department of Conservation and Recreation to keep the Charles River paths in Boston clear of snow for runners.

100

SPORTSONESOURCE OPENS 2016 SGB 40 UNDER 40 AWARD NOMINATIONS SportsOneSource has opened the nominating process for the Ninth Annual SGB 40 Under 40 Awards.

Nominations are open to anyone born after January 1, 1976 that is working in the sporting goods, fitness, outdoor, snow sports or bicycle industry. Nominations close March 11, 2016.

Finalists will be honored in the Spring Issue of SGB magazine and toasted at a weekend event in June 2016...stay tuned for details!

To nominate log on to SGB40Under40.com.

“The 40 Under 40 honoree list has become a who's who of industry managers, entrepreneurs and innovators that will lead this industry for the next 20 years," said James Hartford, CEO of SportsOneSource. "The honorees over the years have developed a common kinship and are part of something very special. It amazes me each year the level of talent and energy reflected in the list of nominees. We expect that this year will bring more of the same."

Each year, SGB honors 40 industry leaders under the age of 40. The honorees are nominated every spring by their customers, clients, vendors, peers, staff, co-workers and bosses.

Hundreds of nominations are pared down by a panel of industry executives, past SGB 40 Under 40 honorees and SportsOneSource editors and analysts.

For more information or advertising opportunities call 303.997.7302.

The number of CycleBar indoor cycling studios the brand expects to open to riders in more than 50 new U.S. markets by December 31, 2016.

It currently has eight studios open.

S H A R P E N YO U R PERSPECTIVE START SEEING CLEARLY SSI VantagePoint is the only weekly retail point-of-sale reporting platform exclusively for the active outdoor lifestyle industry that swiftly delivers critical trends and detailed business data to brands and retailers.

SSIVantagePoint.com ssidata@sportsonesource.com

$150

The price per box (quarterly) for Adidas’ new women’s-only subscription box service to be filled with three to five premium items – a mix of footwear, apparel and accessories appropriate for the season.

$478,000

Awarded in 25 grants by the National Parks Foundation, the official charity of America’s national parks, to national parks across the country for the purpose of giving kids and adults more opportunity to participate in recreation and exercise programs.

$1 million

Being offered by Adidas Football to the pro prospect who break’s football’s professionally recognized 40-yard dash record (4.24 seconds) at the upcoming NFL Combine. The catch: players must where the brand’s new 2016 Adizero 5-Star 40 cleats.

$16 million

The purchase price of aluminum drinking bottle brand Sigg Switzerland AG, which was sold to Chinese firm, Zhejiang Haers Vacuum Containers Co. Ltd., on February 3.

U.S. private-equity firm Riverside was the seller.

Powered by

SportsSourceOne.com | 303.997.7302

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

5

2016

Nominations Are Now Open for the 9th Annual SGB 40 UNDER 40 Awards Close Date March 11, 2016 Click Here To Nominate

The SGB 40 UNDER 40 Awards recognize key leaders under the age of 40 who work within the Sporting Goods, Outdoor and Active Lifestyle industries. Our nominees influence change, drive progress and inspire the community around them. Participate in the process. Recommend Someone Today!

This year’s class will be featured in the Spring Issue of SGB magazine and honored at the SGB 40Under40 awards event this summer. Stay Tuned For Details!

Presented By

6 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

SportsOneSource.com

SGB40Under40.com SGB40Under40.com

Due to the Zika virus, there has been an increased demand for Ben’s Tick & Insect Repellent.

BUG OFF! ZIKA SCARE EXPECTED TO BOOST INSECT-REPELLENT GEAR SALES

By Jahla Seppanen

Retailers may see a bump in sales of insect repellant apparel and gear, as scares of the Zika virus ramp up with spring/summer travel and the 2016 Summer Olympics in Brazil.

“We’ve been seeing a trend, driven by consumer awareness of insect-borne diseases, of buyers getting smarter and taking precautions,” said ExOffocio General Manager, Brian Thompson. “Zika is heightening that awareness, and we are hearing from our retailers and seeing from our own business a significant uptick for insectprotection products.”

Apparel Buyer at Whole Earth Provisions Co. in Texas, Molly McKee, agreed that their core consumer is already familiar with insect-repellant lines, but popularity has upticked within the past two years.

This trend could reach new heights as the wet El Nino winter in the South threatens to increase mosquito populations, and as the Zika virus continues to spread (Time reported the White House submitted a formal request to congress on February 8 for 1.8 billion for relief efforts.)

“Zika is not a new virus, said Eric Eaton, entomologist and principal author of Kaufman Field Guide to Insects of North America, “but its spread and apparent link to birth defects are causes for concern.”

Brands have already jumped to respond.

“With the increased demand for Ben’s Tick & Insect Repellent due to the Zika virus, we are focused on supporting longtime partners that carry the product,” said Chris Gubera, President of Adventure Medical Kits. In addition to keeping their retailers in stock, the company has pledged to keep them up to date on important news.

Zika is bound to get its most attention this summer as thousands of tourists head to the 2016 Summer Olympics in Brazil, one of the countries dealing with a strong increase in cases. On February 9, the U.S. Olympic Committee strongly denied reports that it had told athletes to consider avoiding the Games if Zika was a concern to them.

The U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) isn’t placing any travel restrictions to South American countries, but advises travelers use

protection and take precautions. The CDC recommends travelers wear permethrin-treated clothing -- a contact pesticide that kills mosquitoes and other insects, but has no harmful side effects to wearers.

Brands like ExOfficio, Craghoppers, Outdoor Research, and Sea to Summit have been using permethrin treatments in their travel apparel lines for some time. McKee with Whole Earth said, “it’s a trending process right now.” Craghopper’s NosiLife insect shield was a big factor in National Geographic naming the brand as its official apparel provider, while ExOfficio’s longstanding insect-repellant line BugsAway (using Insect Sheild) is a household name in specialty.

Insect Shield (also used by Outdoor Research, Sea to Summit, Buff Headwear, and Toad & Co) has a patented technology that repels mosquitoes, ticks, ants, flies, chiggers, and midges (another family of small flies). It’s EPA regulated, meaning treated apparel goes through rigorous safety testing before it can be sent to the retailer for sale — being safe for pets, children, and infants.

(Con’t Pg. 8)

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

7

But if you’re a brand that’s not already creating insect-shielding apparel, the ramp up time is significant, Thomspon told SGB. So don’t expect a slew of brands breaking into the space in time for a quick response to Zika. The timetable for adding more orders for already active brands is also slow due to EPA and labeling regulations, so a sharp uptick in demand has the potential to cause backorders.

For some retailers like the Savvy Traveler in Edmonds, WA, apparel has yet to hold its own against repellant sprays like DEET, Ben’s, and BugBand. “Especially over the last two years, we see more sales in insect sprays and arm bands,” said Owner Petra Rousu. In regard to whether Zika prompted a rush of sales, Rousu said, “Our consumers are educated, and therefore not easily scared to buy lots of new products.”

In any case, Zika has been a megaphone in raising broader awareness to the importance of insect-repellant travel apparel, and outdoor wear in general. “It’s an important issue that surrounds very real threats,” Thompson concluded.

“Whether you buy ExOfficio is not the point. It’s about building awareness for the consumer, and not about being an ambulance chaser.”

KEY FACTS

• Zika virus is caused by a virus transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes.

• People with Zika virus usually have a mild fever, skin rash (exanthema) and conjunctivitis. These symptoms normally last for two-to-seven days.

• There is no specific treatment or vaccine currently available.

• The best form of prevention is protection against mosquito bites.

• The virus is known to circulate in Africa, the Americas, Asia and the Pacific.

8 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

Former Arc'teryx President and soon-to-be Hunter Boots CEO Vincent Wauters.

ARC’TERYX PRESIDENT DEPARTS FOR HUNTER BOOTS

By David Clucas

In a bit of a saga that played out during the past accounted for 34.3 and 27.1 percent respectively three weeks, we now know that former Arc’teryx of Amer Sports sales growth in the third quarter President Vincent Wauters left his post for a new of 2015. job at Hunter Boots.

Hoerauf spent the last four years driving On February 9, the iconic rubber boots spe- “high double-digit growth” with existing comcialty brand introduced Wauters as its new CEO, mercial partners, officials said. Prior to joining effective March 1.

Arc’teryx in 2012, he spent 13 years at The North The move helped shine some light on the Face, in various leadership roles including sales, abrupt announcement, January 19, that Wauters marketing and product. was leaving Arc’teryx and its parent firm Amer The final question remained where Wauters Sports after 19 years with the company, four as would end up, and we got the answer February 9. the president of the high-end, Canadian outAt Hunter, Wauters will “drive the brand fordoor apparel and gear brand. ward” during its next stage of development, ofAmer seemed to be caught of guard and ficials said. He replaces James Seuss, who left the quickly named Amer CEO Heikki Takala as the brand in November 2015. lead for Arc’teryx and the firm’s larger apparel “I am honored to join such an iconic brand,” division, which also includes Salomon, Atomic Wauters said. “The combination of heritage, perand Wilson. The public company may have felt formance and fashion is what makes Hunter so that it needed to get word out to investors right unique. What has been accomplished in the last away. A week later, on January 26, it clarified its few years is remarkable and I look forward to announcement, saying that it was promoting building on this, realizing Hunter’s global potenArc'teryx Global Commercial Sales Director Jon tial and setting the path towards an ambitious Hoerauf to the position of president and general and inspiring brand future.” manager of Arc’teryx. He will report directly to Takala, who will continue to assume Wauter’s duties overseeing Amer Sports overall apparel business.

Growing apparel and footwear sales across its brand portfolio, which includes Salomon, Wilson and Atomic, is a key pillar of Amer Sports' strategic growth plan, officials said. In currencyNew Arc'teryx President and General Manager Jon Hoerauf neutral terms, sales of outPhoto courtesy Arc'teryx door apparel and footwear

SKECHERS DOUBLES DOWN ON MEB

By Thomas J. Ryan

Skechers extended its contract with Meb Keflezighi through 2023, when the elite marathoner will reach the ripe running age of 40.

Keflezighi’s feats and inspiring run as America’s best male runner has played a pivotal role in legitimizing Skechers’ foray into selling running shoes. He will continue to be featured in marketing campaigns as well as collaborate on footwear introductions.

Keflezighi was signed in 2011 just as Skechers, known for its casual shoes for adults and light-up shoes for kids for much of its history, was launching its Performance division. Keflezighi was 36, an age when elite runners start pondering retirement and was recently dropped by Nike as a shoe endorser. The company soon launched the first GOrun shoe with Keflezighi – widely known in running circles by a single moniker “Meb” as its official brand ambassador in performance and consultant.

Since signing with Skechers, Keflezighi set a personal record (PR) at the 2011 New York Marathon, PR’d at the 2012 Olympic Trials in Houston and took fourth place at the 2012 Olympic Games. He then went on to set his current PR (2:08:37) and win the 2014 Boston Marathon at the age of 38. He became the first American man to win the Boston Marathon since 1983 with the victory especially poignant coming a year after the Boston Marathon bombings. This past November, he finished seventh overall and was the first American at the New York City marathon.

Over his career, he stands as the only athlete in history to win the New York Marathon (2009), the Boston Marathon (2014) and an Olympic Medal (2004) In 2016, Keflezighi again competed in the Olympic Trials in Los Angeles this past weekend for another spot on the U.S. team.

“Being 40 years old and training for the Olympic Trials is a huge achievement and Skechers Performance has helped make this possible,” said Keflezighi. They know what it means to be a partner and working with the brand to help create the best running shoes possible has been a rewarding experience. It’s not something many athletes have the opportunity to do.”

For Skechers, the extension is unusual because it’s a rare occasion where a company will more than likely be sponsoring an athlete past his retirement. Some reports compared it to Nike’s recent move to sign a lifetime deal with LeBron James. Nike also obviously has a secretive long-term contract with Michael Jordan.

Skechers already has turned to sports legends such as Joe Montana, Mariano Rivera, Sugar Ray Leonard, Pete Rose and Joe Namath to support its casual Relaxed Fit collection but it will be interesting to see how Keflezighi is used on the performance side.

Skechers said the long-term extension reflects Keflezighi’s stature in the running community.

“Meb’s motivation is contagious,” stated Rick Higgins, SVP, merchandising and marketing, Skechers Performance. “Anyone that has the pleasure of meeting him knows what I mean. He is a phenomenal role model, an essential ambassador to the sport, and a champion on and off the course.

We are excited to continue working with Meb, as he has truly become a part of the Skechers family.”

Keflezighi is also the VP of Running at Competitor Group Inc., which owns the "Rock ’n’ Roll" series of marathons and half-marathons. In that position, Keflezighi works with event managers for races, developing

Meb Keflezighi, Elite Marathoner

training content and appearing and competing at events. Finally, along with another retired Olympic runner, Bob Kennedy, Keflezighi is a part owner of San Diego area running store chain Movin Shoes.

On the women’s side, Skechers sponsors Kara Goucher, who also competed this past weekend for a spot on the U.S. women’s team. The trials were held in Los Angeles on February 13, the day before Skechers began its sponsorship of the Los Angeles Marathon. Skechers announced last August that it would replace Asics as the race’s title sponsor. Skechers has also been a major sponsor of the Houston Marathon since 2014.

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

9

MOVERS & SHAKERS Cabela’s Inc. promoted Scott K. Williams to President and said he would take on additional responsibility for U.S. retail operations and all operations in Canada.

Famous Footwear parent Caleres Inc. announced that Senior VP, Chief Accounting Officer and Treasurer Daniel Karpel is planning to leave the company.

Jones & Vining, a full-service footwear component company, hired Charlie Liberge as Executive VP. Keen hired Christy Saito as VP Global Product Merchandising - Outdoor and Lifestyle, and Rob Langstaff will serve as VP, International. Saito had been at Crocs and Langstaff worked for Brooks.

Kylie Jenner, the reality television personality and beauty entrepreneur, signed a seven-figure contract to become an ambassador for Puma.

Lumo Bodytech, creators of Lumo Run smart running shorts, hired Mark Mastalir as VP Marketing and Partnerships. He formerly worked for Hoka One One. MuscleTech, a U.S. sports nutrition supplement brand, signed Denver Broncos all-pro Tight End and two-time Super Bowl player Vernon Davis to represent its family of products.

Nike Inc. appointed Adam Sussman to become its first Chief Digital Officer as part of an acceleration of its digital strategy.

Niner Bikes appointed Mike Gann as President and said Founder Chris Sugai would focus on brand and product direction as well as dedicating more time to advocacy and growing of the sport.

Long time sporting goods industry veteran, Rey Corpuz, launched a new personnel recruitment and executive search firm, Rise Talent Acquisition.

The Finish Line appointed Melissa Greenwell as Executive VP and COO, effective February 28.

Greenwell currently serves as the company's Executive VP and Chief HR Officer, a position she has held since June 2013.

Women's Tennis Association's Kristina Mladenovic and AlizĂŠ Cornet joined the athlete roster at USANA Health Sciences.

10 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

SGBJobs.com Powered By

SportsOneSource.com | 303.9977302

Actionable Weekly Sales Trend Reporting for the Active Lifestyle Market

To schedule a personal demo or to learn more about the SSI Data Point-of-Sale trend-reporting platform, contact SportsOneSource Client Solutions at 303.997.7302 or email Solutions@SportsOneSource.com or visit SSIData.com

Powered By

SportsOneSource.com | 303.997.7302

ONE ON ONE

James Fisher VP of Product, Ibex, on how wool has outgrown its winter-only reputation

By Jahla Seppanen

W

ool remains a top performer in outdoor apparel.

Not only does the natural fiber a deliver top-notch technical performance in temperature regulation, odor control, SPF protection and traceability, its knitted texture reigns supreme in today’s fashion circles exuding hot homemade and homegrown trends.

For those reasons, the space also has become a crowded field, with practically every outdoor apparel brand bringing some kind of wool or woolmix product to their lineups.

James Fisher

That leaves the brands doing nothing but wool — such as Vermontbased Ibex Outdoor Clothing — scrambling to innovate to stay ahead of the crowds. We sat down with Ibex Vice President of Product James Fisher, former senior business unit director at Burton Snowboards and industry whiz at apparel and product development, to get the breakdown of what, why, and how the brand is helping reinvent classic merino.

From bringing back cable knits to discovering wool weaves that feel light as cotton, there’s plenty of room to grow the category.

CLICK TO PLAY

Photo courtesy Ibex

12 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

What fabrication is Ibex looking at with its wool weaves? I like to refer to us as a Wool Lab, and the results of our non-stop exploration and testing paid off big for Fall 2016. We have several purpose-driven fabrics for specific performance and aesthetic. Taos Plaid is one of our franchise wovens.

It's a super strong 180 grams, and we offer it in fresh plaids every season.

Our new Woolies 3 is an expedition-weight, double-face fabric with 100-percent merino next to skin and a poly/Spandex exterior face (a.k.a. best of both worlds). And we also utilize lightweight year-round styles in our Weightless Wool (W2) program. W2 gives you the burst strength of a synthetic with our superlight nylon core, but then we fully wrap it with lightweight merino so you have 100-percent merino next to skin in an ultralight, multi-use function.

Do any weaves or fabrications diminish the power of wool? Not really.

We can customize weights, weaves, prints, you name it. The power of wool is strong — straight up.

Where does Ibex source its wool? We are a global company and have partners all over the World, but the majority of our merino comes from our friends in New Zealand. I would add that we do source wool in the U.S., and we do manufacture in the U.S., however the majority of our goods built here in the U.S. are made of imported fabrics.

Are there other materials Ibex blends with its wool? We use a nylon core in our Weightless Wool fabric. The nylon core offers the burst strength of a synthetic, but we fully wrap it in 18-micron merino wool, which offers the full wool next to skin experience with a tremendous core strength at 145 grams. We also offer a merino/spandex combination in a pointe knit for our Ride (cycling) collection.

Should companies be blending wool with other materials? How does it impact production and final product? This is a subject that obviously hits close to home for us at Ibex. I am all in favor of blends that are conceived, designed and executed with specific purpose or application in mind. I am completely against blending with synthetics (and certain faux “naturals”) in order to drive down cost.

What’s the next big challenge for wool? Making it chemical free, dying, knitting more complicated designs…? Yes. Yes. and Yes! It’s a really interesting time for wool. It feels like we’ve finally broken through the “why wool in summer” fundamental hurdles, so now we’re on par with everyone else.

WHY NEW ZEALAND WOOL? 1. New Zealand has a population of more than 40 million sheep (and only 4.2 million people).

2. The wool is Zque Certified for environmental, social, and economic sustainability, plus the sheep welfare is traceable.

3. Zque was launched by The New Zealand Merino Company to spread awareness of textile choices as a reflection of a brand’s beliefs and image.

4. Smartwool and other international apparel brands like John Smedley and Nikke are Zque partners.

KNOW YOUR WOOL TERMS 1. The “micron” rating Fisher refers to is key to understanding wools comfort, or non-itch factor.

2. The smaller the micron gauge, the finer the wool fiber.

3. For wool products, the micron level is expressed as an average of all the yarns’ fineness, and generally speaking, the lower the micron level, the less itch (although a few less fine yarns as part of a low-micron measurement can make it itch).

4. Fibers are selected for certain performance levels long before they are knit into the fabric.

5. An outer layer stands at 24.5 (as a comparison, human hair is 60.0), and brands like Ibex spin some of their yarns down to between 17.5 and 18.5 for next-to-skin baselayers (the lighter is for summer).

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

13

MADE IN THE USA

John Helle, Duckworth Rancher and Co-founder Photo courtesy Dan Armstrong

Duckworth’s U.S. Journey Two Former Duofold Execs and a Montana Sheep Rancher Keep American-Made Wool Stateside

By David Clucas

Photo courtesy Duckworth

14 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

“We’re not just about being U.S. made, we’re about making the best product in the world [from start to finish].”

– Robert Bernthal

They found it could be as soft and fine as New Zealand and Australian wool, but also had unique properties such as more crimp that gave it greater loft and stretch thanks to the state’s plentiful sun and both hot and cold temperatures. That varies from year-to-year, Bernthal said, “so it’s like a fine wine.”

Duckworth set up shop in Bozeman and now employs eight people, plus 10 at the ranch.

Photo courtesy Duckworth

Going back to his days at baselayer brands Duofold and I/O Bio, Robert Bernthal always thought the wool supply chain was “clumsy and volatile.” The natural fiber from sheep was sourced from around the world, washed and processed in one country, spun and knit in another, before being made into a final product, almost always, in China. From start to finish, the wool likely racked up 20,000 frequent-flyer miles, he said.

Montana Born Flash forward to 2013 and Bernthal (who goes by “Bernie”) was living in Bozeman, MT. There he met local rancher John Helle, who had a herd of 10,000 Rambouillet sheep and was equally disillusioned with the industry. Most of his wool was going to brokers and being sold around the world, ending up who knows where.

The two men went skiing, “and three chairlift rides later, we formed Duckworth,” Bernthal said.

The idea was to use Helle’s sheep for a new Made in the USA wool performance apparel brand — one where the company would know where every fiber came from and could track it throughout the entire process. They added the expertise of Graham Stewart, who Bernthal had worked with at Duofold, to build out their vision.

Montana is the perfect home. While the state has seen its ranched sheep population decline from 6 million to 200,000 over the past century, it still boasts the last remaining wool lab in the country at the University of Montana, where Bernthal and Helle set out to study the U.S. wool.

U.S. Production The next step was finding and setting up a production process that could keep the wool within the United States, which wasn’t easy, Bernthal said, but now the wool travels a couple thousand miles instead of tens of thousands.

After being sheered at Helle’s ranch in Montana, Duckworth’s wool is sent to the Carolinas where its degreased, combed and blended (if there’s another fiber being added). It then stays in the Southeast or travels to the Northeast, where it is spun and knit, before returning to North Carolina to be dried, finished, cut and sewn.

Duckworth employees sorting wool fleece Photo courtesy Dan Armstrong

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

15

Duckworth Polaris Hoody Photos courtesy Duckworth

“It’s a much more compact process, but still relies on a lot of different contractors,” Bernthal said. “We prefer to use all the specialists.”

In the middle of that process, Duckworth notably came up with a chemical-free process to descale and clean the wool, which is part of what makes fine wool less itchy. Typically, chlorine is used, which isn’t very environmental friendly as it releases toxins and produces a lot of wastewater.

“We do it mechanically,” Bernthal said, “so there are no chemicals.”

The Products Duckworth offers specialty retailers and consumers an array of wool baselayers, midlayers, accessories and lifestyle apparel, but knew it had to distinguish itself in an increasingly crowded performance wool category.

“We’re not just about being U.S. made, we’re about making the best product in the world,” Bernthal said.

Some of the more unique highlights include a waffle-knit wool layer, such as in its Polaris Hoody, $120; and its blending of the wool with another natural U.S.-sourced material, tree pulp, or cellulose, to create a “cooler wool” that better wicks moisture, such as in its Vapor Hoody, $95.

This year, it also debuts its WoolCloud insulation - secondary wool fibers (that are too harsh for next-to-skin applications) - that can be encapsulated like down for an effective insulation fill and found in its WoolCloud FullZip Hoody Jacket, $275.

Duckworth currently sells its product to about 80 specialty retailers, mostly in the United States, but also in Europe and Japan, and does directto-consumer online.

Made in the USA Hurdles Manufacturing in the United States hasn’t come without its challenges, and there’s much that needs to change for more outdoor brands to join the trend, Bernthal said.

“Where the U.S. labor force really needs to catch up is with its skills in technical sewing,” he said. There are skilled workers here, Bernthal noted, just not enough of them and it’s next to impossible to compete against the cheap labor in Asia. The knowledge base in the U.S. Southeast is aging, he added.

To grow Made in the USA, the industry will need to invest in educating and promoting younger generations to pick up end-stage processing skills.

“Come on guys, let’s back it up,” Bernthal said. “In the U.S. it tends to be every man for himself, except for the American Wool Council. Even at Outdoor Retailer, you have to pay $1,500 to be in the Made in the USA Showcase. We need to support it, not be charged for it.”

Despite the challenges, Bernthal said the product is selling well, especially in outdoor-urban areas where consumers are placing greater importance on where their apparel comes from. “It’s the most satisfying project I’ve worked on in 30 years in the industry,” he said.

Duckworth Team from left to right: Duckworth Rancher John Helle, Duckworth President Robert "Bernie" Bernthal, Duckworth Fabric Specialist Graham Stewart, Duckworth Designer Outi Pulkkinen, and Evan Helle (son of John). Photo courtesy Dan Armstrong

16 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

Recent sightings confirm isolated bands of humans still surviving winter conditions with little or no ice and snow traction. Clearly an endangered species. At Yaktrax, we’ve evolved a range of dependable ice traction tools to fit every survival strategy. Yaktrax.com

©2016 Implus LLC. Yaktrax® is a registered trademark of Implus LLC. 1.16

#ConquerWinter

ACTIVE LIFESTYLE INSULATION OUTERWEAR

Goldilocks Insulation That is Just Right Today’s performance insulation outerwear goes well beyond just the puffy — addressing both erratic weather patterns and a wider spectrum of consumer cold-weather activities.

By David Clucas

18 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

W

hile hile an an unusually unusually warm warm start start to winter on the East Coast to winter on the East Coast and and throughout throughout the the Midwest Midwest dampdampened insulation outerwear ened insulation outerwear sales sales through the important Holiday 2015 through the important Holiday 2015 season, season, sales sales of of insulated insulated jackets jackets are are actually up 17 percent in units and actually up 17 percent in units and up up more more than than 99 percent percent in in dollars dollars for the past 52 weeks, through for the past 52 weeks, through JanuJanuary 30, 2016, for all specialty, chain ary 30, 2016, for all specialty, chain and and Internet Internet channels, channels, according according to to SSI Data*.

SSI Data*.

Partly Partly driving driving those those strong strong annual annual figures is last season’s very cold figures is last season’s very cold winwinter, which stretched well into early ter, which stretched well into early spring, spring, offsetting offsetting some some of of this this winwinter’s warmer temps.

Plus, strength ter’s warmer temps. Plus, strength has comefrom fromanan expansion of has come expansion of the the category, insulation category, with with moremore insulation solu-

solutions for growing the growing active lifetions for the active lifestyle style space.

For example, while respace. For example, while retailers tailers sawofsales of skiing and snowsaw sales skiing and snowboardboarding 17 percent ing jacketsjackets downdown 17 percent and and 19 percent, respectively, in dol19 percent, respectively, in dollars, lars, during the past 52 weeks, sales during the past 52 weeks, sales of of insulated outdoor jackets (includinsulated outdoor jackets (including ing the growing endurance the growing endurance space)space) were were up nearly 15 percent and up nearly 15 percent and salessales for for the fashion/casual insulated the fashion/casual insulated jacket jacket space jumped 44 percent.

Inspace jumped 44 percent.

Insulated sulated fishing jackets, while a very fishing jackets, while a very small small of the category, saw part ofpart the category, also sawalso healthy healthy as another of gains asgains another exampleexample of brands brands expanding their reach. expanding their reach.

It It all all matches matches well well with with what what brands and retailers are telling brands and retailers are telling us us as as we we take take aa look look at at what’s what’s trending trending in in insulation insulation outerwear. outerwear.

*SSI Data, powered by SportsOneSource, provides weekly point-of-sale data and analysis to retailers *SSI Data, powered by SportsOneSource, provides weekly point-of-sale data and analysis to retailers and manufacturers in the active lifestyle market. To schedule a personal demo or learn more, call and manufacturers in the active lifestyle market. To schedule a personal demo or learn more, call 303.997.7302 or Solutions@ SportsOneSource.com.

303.997.7302 or Solutions@ SportsOneSource.com.

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

19

A RUSH OF INSULATION INNOVATIONS

F

or years, active lifestyle brands leaned on the puffy, down-filled jacket as their insulation outerwear go-to. The innovation was mostly in the lightweight exterior of the jackets, and they sold like hot cakes.

But the general and mass markets quickly picked up on the trend, and from Uniqlo to Kohl’s, the puffy was soon widely available and affordable, cutting into specialty margins.

This forced the industry to innovate at a faster pace to stay ahead of the curve and set themselves apart.

That includes new exterior constructions, such as those debuted by Gore-Tex, to

add more weather-resistant protection and breathability to insulation pieces.

The North Face’s “doubleweave” chambers caught our eyes, too, in which insulation baffles are pre-woven in as part of the fabric, instead of the need for post stitching. Pertex introduced its new CS10 technology, where the construction advances are within the exterior yarns themselves — shaped like diamonds to lock together and provide better abrasion resistance and water-beading — and Columbia expanded its waterproof/breathable OutDry Extreme to new insulation pieces.

20 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

New synthetic fills also are aplenty, driven by a surge in natural down prices a few years ago. The innovations attempt to better mimic down’s softness and loft for more lightweight and compressible insulation, while delivering better moisture management.

Bergans of Norway is a big name leading these efforts. Spun wool insulations are also rising as a natural alternative to down. They’re not as light and compressible, but excel in odor control and temperature regulation.

And NuDown continues to bank on air as the

best insulator — pump in more for increased loft and warmth; let it out for when it gets too warm.

The coming year will bring the rise of recycled down as brands from Patagonia to Ternua look to play off sustainability stories in insulation. The former also debuted a new synthetic fill in partnership with PrimaLoft for its popular Nano Puff collection, now with 55 percent recycled content. And another environmental story to keep an eye on will be if PFC-free treated insulations (for water resistance) catch on as part of the wider DWR debate.

ACTIVE INSULATION FOR AN ACTIVE CONSUMER

T

he wave of new insulations reflects an evolving active lifestyle consumer. No longer are they beholden to a few traditional winter-time activities like skiing. They are out running, biking and heading to the CrossFit gym for a varied and diverse list of workouts.

Today’s active consumer not only demands insulation, but heat management in their winter apparel for Mountain Hardwear Stretch Down RS Jacket Photo courtesy Mountain Hardwear

when they pump up the heart rate.

“We continue to see interest growing in ski product that works as well going uphill as it does going down,” said Jordan Wand, VP of product and marketing at Outdoor Research.

For these products, coined “active insulation” pieces, there are two big trends: • Air permeability — sacrificing some wind

protection for more air exchange to deliver better breathability and moisture management for sweat-inducing winter workouts while maintaining insulation and weather protection in the cold. Polartec has been a big proponent here with both its NeoShell waterproof shells and Alpha insulation.

• Stretch — adding lightweight, yet durable flexi-

bility to fabric that allows for unencumbered and natural strides for more physical pursuits. Mountain Hardwear, for example, debuted its StretchDown product, which added stretch, even to the welded seams, for 100 percent flexibility in the garment. More stretch also allows for slimmer pieces with less bulk and material, meeting current fashion trends.

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

21

OUTDOORSY URBAN DESIGNS

F

uturistic, shiny and bright exterior looks are fading on the insulation outerwear fashion scene.

For 2016 and beyond, more-muted earth tones and softer looks, even with exterior natural fibers, are making more appearances.

“The perfect combination of technical fabrics

that don’t look overly techy paired with a stylish silhouette and massive attention to detail continues to resonate with outdoor consumers,” Jordan Wand, VP product and marketing at Outdoor Research said.

“Fabrics need to be able to be more transitional and stylish, while colors

22 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

need to be relevant for longer periods of time,” added Jennifer Zollars, sportswear product line manager at Mountain Hardwear.

Brands like Voormi are going a step further, coming up with innovative ways to protect products like wool — on the exteri-

or of its garments — from the elements.

“Everyone is warm and dry now, so design aesthetic and style is more important than ever to stay relevant and continue to grab the consumer’s attention,” said Steve Adams, outerwear PLM for Mountain Hardwear.

Photo courtesy Mountain Hardwear

REACHING MORE WOMEN

M

uch of the shift in insulation outerwear could be attributed to women more than any other cause. Their increased participation in the outdoor winter scene has largely altered and expanded the range of

Photo courtesy Nau

activities consumers now pursue in this season.

“Women are more used to expressing themselves through apparel and you can see this on the slopes and in the streets in terms of more variety of silhouettes,” said Philip Tavell,

category managing director for Helly Hansen.

But it’s not just about looks. From an industrywide perspective, we are encouraged to see more women leaders, designers and athletes playing major roles for brands. They’re

not only bringing a fresh perspective, but new innovations that are specifically tailored for a more active female consumer.

In turn, that’s empowering more women to get out and enjoy the outdoors on cold and snowy days.

FEBRUARY 15, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

23

INDUSTRY CALENDAR

FEBRUARY

1-2 SIA On-Snow Demo

Denver, CO 1-2 SIA Nordic Demo

Denver, CO 2-4 FFANY

New York, NY 2-4 Worldwide Spring Show

Reno, NV 8-10 EORA SE February Show

Greenville, SC 15-18 Magic Show

Las Vegas, NV 16-17 MWSRA New Model Demo

Afton Alps-Hastings, MN 17-20 Sports Inc. Outdoor Show

Phoenix, AZ 18-22 NBS Semi-Annual Market

Fort Worth, TX

MARCH

8-9 SFIA National Health Through Fitness Day

Washington, D.C. 17-19 Imprinted Sportswear Show (ISS)

Atlantic City, NJ 21-24 IHRSA

Orlando, FL

APRIL 1-2

12

19-21

SFIA Litigation & Risk Management Summit New Orleans, LA SFIA/NFHS/NCAA Rules Conference Indianapolis, IN Imprinted Sportswear Show (ISS) Nashville, TN

MAY

22-25 NSGA Management Conference and Team

Hilton Head Island, SC

JUNE

23-25 Sports Inc. Athletic Show

Minneapolis, MN 24-26 SGB 40 Under 40 Awards

Huntington Beach, CA

JULY

13-17 IDEA World Fitness Convention

Los Angeles, CA

AUGUST 11-13 Show

Sports Inc. Outdoor Minneapolis, MN

25-28 NBS Fall Market

Fort Worth, TX

OCTOBER

28-30 ADA Fall Buying Show

Phoenix, AZ

NOVEMBER 17-19

Athletic Business Conference & Expo Orlando, FL

TRADE ASSOCIATIONS BUYING GROUPS Athletic Dealers of America 1395 Highland Avenue Melbourne, FL 32935 t 321.254.0091 athleticdealersofamerica.com National Shooting Sports Foundation Flintlock Ridge Office Center 11 Mile Hill Road Newtown, CT 06470 t 203.426.1320 nssf.org National Sporting Goods Association 1601 Feehanville Drive I Suite 300 Mount Prospect, IL 60056 t 847.296.6742 nsga.org Nation’s Best Sports 4216 Hahn Blvd.

Ft. Worth, TX 76117 t 817.788.0034 nbs.com Outdoor Industry Association 4909 Pearl East Circle I Suite 300 Boulder, CO 80301 t 303.444.3353 outdoorindustry.org Sports & Fitness Industry Association 8505 Fenton Street I Suite 211 Silver Spring, MD 20910 t 301.495.6321 sfia.org Snow Sports Industries America 8377-B Greensboro Drive McLean, VA 22102 t 703.556.9020 snowsports.org Snowsports Merchandising Corp.

235 Cadwell Drive Springfield, MA 01104 t 413.739.7331 Snowsportsmerchandising.com Sports, Inc. 333 2nd Avenue North Lewistown, MT 59457 t 406.538.3496 sportsinc.com Sports Specialists Ltd. 590 Fishers Station Drive I Suite 110 Victor, NY 14564 t 585.742.1010 sportsspecialistsltd.com Tennis Industry Association 1 Corpus Christi Place I Suite 117 Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 t 843.686.3036 tennisindustry.org Worldwide 8211 South 194th Kent, WA 98032 t 253.872.8746 wdi-wdi.com

Photo courtesy ExOfficio BugsAway Apparel

24 SGBWeekly.com | FEBRUARY 15, 2016

SGB Today Is The Newest Information Product From SGB Media and SportsOneSource.

SGB Today Brings The Depth and Quality Of SGB Magazine To Your Mobile Device Each Business Day. SGB Today Is Delivered To Subscribers In A New Contemporary Format Optimized For Viewing On Your Phone, Tablet, Laptop Or Desktop. The Format Is Responsive and Adjusts Sizing Based On Your Device.

SGB Today Is Delivered Via Email Five Times A Week.

Advertising Account Managers James Hartford, Publisher 303.578.7004 | jhartford@sportsonesource.com

Buz Keenan, Media Sales 201.887.5112 | buz@sportsonesource.com

Powered By

1075 E. South Boulder Road • Suite 300 • Louisville • CO • 80027 SportsOneSource.com | 303.997.7302