SGBW_1625

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ISSUE 1625 June 20, 2016

The Weekly Digital Magazine for the Active Lifestyle Market


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JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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ISSUE 1625 June 20, 2016

The Weekly Digital Magazine for the Active Lifestyle Market

5 Light is Right

Photo courtesy Igloo

On sponsored professional triathlete Nicola Spirig. Photo courtesy On and Thomas Stoeckli

FEATURES 5 Light Is Right While runners demand a variety of options, including more fashion styles, lightweight advances reign supreme.

10 3D-Printed Footwear Is Just Getting Started 3D printing has the potential to deliver the ultimate customization in footwear for consumers.

Cover New Balance 3D Printed Performance Running Shoe. Photo courtesy New Balance

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Light is Right While runners demand a variety of options, including more fashion styles, lightweight advances reign supreme. By Thomas J. Ryan Photo courtesy On and Thomas Stoeckli

W

hile much of the talk over the last few years in road running footwear has been around minimalist or maximalist cushioning, some of the most notable changes have been more quietly occurring with minimalist approaches to upper design. The biggest driver for consumers continues to be lightweight. “Runners are so savvy and well read these days, which pushes us to do the same so we can provide innovative solutions to their needs,” said Claire Wood, senior footwear product line manager at New Balance. ”We want to design product that has what it needs, not just extra pieces for gimmick. Every part is purposeful, if it doesn’t need extra overlays than we don’t put them there.” The performance running story also has its challenges, as a big influx of more fashionand value-oriented running shoes continues to grab market share. Overall running footwear

sales are up just 1 percent in dollars at industry retail, over the past 52 weeks through May 14, 2016, according to SSI Data*. And all the growth is coming from the fashion and value subcategories, which now accounts for nearly 60 percent of the market. Multiple Options Many performance running brands continue to focus on delivering minimalist shoes for the segment of runners that learned to love that experience, while also addressing extra cushioning underfoot and reaching more runners. Overall, the focus is on multiple options. “Runners realize they don’t have to run in the same shoe every day, and different shoes can fit into their training,” said New Balance's Wood. “Some days they might need more underfoot, other days less, and there is a lot of variety in between.”

Today's millennials are also craving a variety of running experiences, said Brice Newton, senior manager of global footwear merchandising at Brooks Running. “Runners are getting more adventurous in terms of what they’re willing to try including materials, midsole foams and nontraditional running silhouettes,” observed Newton. “Millennials are a great example of this; they’re more likely to try new and faster looking silhouettes. They also want to be able to use their running shoes for more than just a run.” "More than ever, consumers want choices," Asics' footwear and apparel product specialists said in a combined statement. "Consumers are looking for clean designs, but millennials continue to demand frequent advancements in innovation and are drawn to personalized customization." On, the Swiss brand that stands out for its distinctive rubber pods on the outsole, believes JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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Photo courtesy Saucony

its Cloudtec technology continues to sit in the sweet spot. ”Extremes don’t work,” said Co-founder David Allemann. On’s Cloudtec technology acts to stabilize the foot strike and activates postural muscles, putting the runner in control. Overall, Allemann believes “simplicity and accessibility” holds strong appeal across a wide spectrum of runners with busy lifestyles. “Today a shoe needs to support effortless running,” Allemann said. “Saying this, it’s not about making extra time for running, running can also be included in your everyday life: you can run to work, you can run to your favorite sport, etc.” Looks Matter The rush toward fashion running styles can be a value play for some consumers –¬ those that want to look the part, but don't actually require top-of-the-line performance - but it's also about 6 SGBWeekly.com | JUNE 20, 2016

Photo courtesy On and Thomas Stoeckli

sleek looks and something that works in an urban environment. The question arises for performance brands how to provide, but hide, all that lightweight cushioning, or how to design a stability shoe that doesn't look like one. Wood at New Balance said the brand's 860v6 stability shoe has benefitted from a makeover. “We are modernizing the design with beautiful cosmetics and just because it has been in the marketplace for a few years, it remains extremely relevant, what we call a ‘go-to’ zone.” She added that while some runners want bright, bold colors, others, especially those in the city, want a more tonal silhouette. “In the past, we would hone in on one trend or color story where now we are offering a range of colors to meet the needs of the modern runner and the variety that they want.” Altra Co-Founder Golden Harper sees the same trend with a big uptick in saturated

natural tones such as forest green, glacier blue and rust orange. The brand is also generally seeing less white. Skechers' head of technical development, Kurt Stockbridge, sees both color and the use of color blocking being influence by a retro running color palette. “Solid colors and earth tones are back with a more limited bright color pallet used as accents. Midsole sidewalls are also a trending canvas for aesthetic exploration,” he added. According to Brook's Newton, "good prints that pop with black tights are hot with women now." At Hoka One One, bright, bold color blocks continue to connect with fans, officials said, especially with young runners. New materials and 3D printing are also helping to add more fashion elements while keeping shoes functional, helping redefine what is considered “fashionable”.


Photo courtesy Saucony

Altra Golden Spike Unisex

Altra Men's Torin 2.5

Altra Women's Paradigm 2.0

Performance Advances Pat O'Malley, president of Saucony, noted that one of the bigger technological advances is being able to make a cushioned running shoe that’s much more stable than in the past. That has enabling brands to offer lighter, more flexible and more cushioned shoes to runners who typically would need more rigid or structured shoes for support. “You don't have to choose a shoe with more stability features, because cushioning shoes are now inherently more stable,” said O'Malley. In upper construction, the use of engineered mesh provides support in key areas while open weave construction adds flexibility in other parts of the shoe. The overal techniques reduce overlays to create the clean and sleek upper that’s in demand by the consumer, but also makes shoes fit more like a slipper instead of something more structured around your foot. It's the same philopshy driving knitted uppers, said Chris Brewer, Adidas category director for running. Adidas offers knitted uppers that fill different functional needs from creating a highly breathable and stretchable upper, to providing support to the foot where its needed. “While it might have started as a style trend, we see it as a performance and fashion advantage,” Brewer said. “People wear running

shoes for many different reasons, and knitted uppers allow us to speak fluently in the language of each consumer." A more pervasive trend that Altra's Harper sees is that no matter the running category, lighter weight models rule. “Runners can feel a difference when they wear a lighter weight shoe that is still cushioned and supportive, which is really what Altra specializes in,” Harper said. An example would be a nearly 20 percent weight reduction in its Lone Peak Neoshell, which also allowed Altra to make a mid-height of the same shoe for about the same weight as the old low-cut version, 12 oz. Said Harper, “This is unheard of for a mid-height shoe with waterproof fabric.” Finding The Sweet Spot As the minimal-maximal debate continues, most brands are settling somewhere in the middle. While stack heights were a focus during the minimalist craze with the attention to zerodrop and 4mm-drop models, O'Malley said they’re now more of an “expected part” of the purchasing discussion rather than the ”lead” part. Saucony’s tests continue to show that 8mmoffsets for most runners “really sets the body up the right way to interact with the ground to benefit the runner… and it just feels better.”

JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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Gretchen Weimers, vice president of product for Hoka One One, said minimal and maximal are well-worn industry terms to describe cushioning, but many runners are just looking for comfortable and protective shoes. “New materials and technology means that runners can still have the comfort of an oversized shoe without the weight and bulk of previous models,” said Weimers. “Hoka continues to push the boundaries by taking their signature cushioning and stability and providing consumers with a variety of weights and stack height options.” Weimers said lightweight shoes that act and perform like racing flats without sacrificing comfort and stability are continuing to gain popularity among the racing community. With its new Carbon Rocket, Tracer, and Clayton models, Hoka believes it has taken its signature comfort from its bulky models and combined it with super lightweight materials to create shoes suitable for training or racing any distance from the 5k to the marathon. “As consumers continue to demand a shoe that combines cushioning without the weight, materials and foams are evolving and become more important in creating a shoe that is lightweight, cushioned and attractive," Weimers said.

Photo courtesy Asics

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Harper at Altra sees the “happy middle ground” between minimal and maximal driving running shoe sales. “Ultra cushion is still a trend, but it is certainly waning at the moment, despite continued strength for the super-fast growing category of ultra runners looking for extra foot protection in very long races,” he said. Brewer at Adidas said with the minimalist craze well back in the rear view mirror, cushioning is now expected. “And not just a little bit of cushioning. Now the cushioning must be abundantly apparent from the first instant,” he said. While this butts up against some of the sleeker aesthetic trends, Brewer said Adidas early on was able to benefit from the shift toward more cushioning with the introduction of its Boost technology in February 2013. Brewer added that while other brands have pushed toward offering maximum cushioning, the “Holy Grail is not simply cushioning but cushioning combined with outstanding responsiveness.” Stockbridge at Skechers sees the middle ground as the best place to be these days. “Runners generally love responsive cushioning, but many do not wish to sacrifice ground feel, weight and stability to get it,” said Stockbridge. Overall, Skechers sees runners responding to a less-is-more approach to

design across categories. These include simpler solutions and fewer (but broader) purpose components that weigh less. Onboard Tech Under Armour, which owns MapMyRun as part of its Connected Fitness platform, finds that based on its app-collected data, women are logging more runs than men, especially among runners under 35 years old. “These young female runners are really leading the trend in elevated and stylish running apparel and footwear,” said Under Armour in a combined statement from its running product team. Under Armour believes the ability to track a runner’s performance is becoming a bigger part of the run experience and will work its way into footwear design. Earlier this year, Under Armour introduced the Gemini 2 Record Equipped, a shoe that can track an individual’s run without a phone or other technology present. *SSI Data, powered by SportsOneSource, collects and analyzes POS data from more than 15,000 retail doors across nine channels of distribution. To learn more, call 303.997.7302 or email Solutions @ SportsOneSource.com


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JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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Team New Balance Athlete Brenda Martinez with the New Balance 3D Printed Zante Generate

3D-Printed Footwear is Just Getting Started Will 3D printing replace the slow boat from China for footwear production? The short answer is ‘maybe.’ But due to costs, speed and other factors, it’s going to take some time to find out. By Thomas J. Ryan

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hile making a sneaker in the comfort of your home with the assistance of a 3D printer likely remains in the far-off distance, brands are utilizing the technology to make limited product runs. 3D printing has the potential to deliver the ultimate customization in footwear for consumers. For footwear design teams, brands told SGB that a big advantage of 3D printing is being able to make and tweak prototypes in hours, instead of months, to speed innovation. And because machines are doing most of the work, it could level labor costs to keep manufacturing stateside. In March, Under Armour launched its first 3D-printed shoe, called the UA Architech, conceptualized during a two-year research and development process involving the study of geometric shapes and structures to come up with the midsole design. “3D printing is a new, innovative way of developing product and it’s revolutionizing the way in which we can manufacture footwear,” Under Armour Vice President of Training and Outdoor Footwear Chris

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Lindgren told SGB. “It’s streamlining the manufacturing process and allows our brand to be nimble as we innovate. Additionally, it provides the potential for fully customizable footwear options for our athletes and consumers.” Printed at Under Armour’s Innovation Lab in Baltimore, MD, the UA Architech uses Autodesk Within Software to employ generative design instead of a computer algorithm to create the lattice midsole, which provides a stable heel structure and the cushioning elements needed for strength training. The midsole is matched with a flow-molded 3D ClutchFit auxetic upper, which offers a supportive feel that flexes and moves with the foot. Charged Cushioning is added for responsiveness and comfort. Under Armour sold 96 pairs of the shoes — a nod to the year Under Armour was founded, 1996 — for $300 each on ua.com and at its Baltimore Brand House location. Lindgren said 3D-printed footwear manufacturing is pushing the industry’s envelope on innovation and rethinking the potential of customization. He added, “As the industry continues to innovate and the manu-


facturing technology grows, the ability to tune this technology across all platforms is endless, and we are really looking forward to driving the thought-leadership around 3D printed footwear and how we can bring this technology to more and more of our consumers.” Taking a similar route, New Balance in April sold 44 pairs of the Zante Generate, which it claimed is the first 3D-printed running shoe. The number 44 referenced New Balance owner and chairman, Jim Davis, who purchased the company 44 years ago on Patriot’s Day in 1972. The shoes were sold for $400 each. The Zante Generate is a result of collaboration with 3-D Systems. The shoes have a 3D printed midsole crafted from Elastomeric powder that is tough while remaining flexible. The porous honeycomb midsole with hundreds of small, open cells promise to mold to the wearer’s feet over time, resulting in a better workout. “To deliver this level of performance with a 3D printed component, we paired experts in running and biomechanics with leaders in plastics engineering, material development and generative design,” said Sean Murphy, New Balance’s senior manager of innovation and reengineering, at the product’s introduction. “These are the types of collaborations that will drive footwear design and manufacturing in the future.” New Balance’s history with the technology goes back to 2013 when it outfitted miler Jack Bolas with data-customized spike plates to match his mechanics on the track. Many of the brand's other sponsored athletes now receive customized spikes and cleats. In October of last year, Adidas unveiled its Futurecraft 3D concept, a 3D-printed running shoe midsole that can be tailored to the wearer’s foot. Created through an open-source partnership with Materialise, a pioneer in 3D printing, Futurecraft 3D imagines a future where a customer can walk into a store, run for a few minutes on a treadmill to analyze their running mechanics, and then have a custom shoe 3D printed for them while they wait. While many 3D printing technologies focus on enhancing the aesthetic approach of shoes, Futurecraft 3D stood out for its focus on performance. “There are so many amazing benefits of 3D printing in footwear beyond its visual and functional newness,” Adidas Global VP of Strategy Creation James Carnes told SGB. “First, Futurecraft 3D takes personalization to a totally new dimension, creating the possibility for consumers to customize their midsoles so they match the contour and pressure points of their own feet. Second, a central objective of our Futurecraft design approach is finding better techniques to create our products, including using the most sustainable materials and processes. 3D printing allows us to significantly reduce waste while maintaining exceptional quality.” Adidas later in the year unveiled a partnership with environmental group Parley for the Oceans to create a 3D-printed sneaker made partially of plastic waste from the ocean. For its part, Nike in March introduced a custom track spike for sprinter Allyson Felix made possible through 3D-print prototyping. In May, it accelerated its 3D-printing push with an alliance with HP Inc. (formerly Hewlett-Packard) for an even swifter prototyping pace. “We’ve been using 3D printing to create new performance innovations for footwear for the past several years,” said Tom Clarke, president of Nike Innovation. “Now we are excited to partner with HP to accelerate and scale our existing capabilities as we continue to explore new ways to manufacture performance products to help athletes reach their full potential.” Casting some doubt on the hype was a report that came out earlier this year from Ovum, the technology research and advisory firm, which

Under Armour 3D Printed Architech Photo courtesy Under Armour

Adidas Futurecraft 3D Photo courtesy Adidas

Nike in March introduced a custom track  spike for sprinter Allyson Felix made  possible through 3D-print prototyping. Photo courtesy Nike

predicted that 3D printing will have only a limited impact in the retail space, at least over the next 10 years or so. Ovum wrote that the near-term opportunity appears to be focused only on highly-personalized and novelty items and said the technology would be challenged competing with mass production in the long term. “3D printing will grow but only if it can provide genuine benefits, quality outputs and speed at a reasonable cost,” wrote Ovum in the report. Carnes at Adidas said the time it takes to print a single part is a major inhibitor to 3D printing becoming a mainstay in production. "While it’s incredibly precise, it’s still not that fast," said Carnes. "Another [hurdle] is that the materials are specialized for the printing process, but not always for the unique function of the product. In some cases they are too soft, in others they are too rigid." He finally said there just aren’t a lot of factories ready to scale up, "so it’s more of an innovation and prototyping tool still than it is a production method." Under Armour's Lindgren agreed that scale is a major hurdle, but he remains upbeat about 3D-printing's future for footwear. Said Lindgren, "Once the supply chain has more access to this technology and factories are willing to make the investment in the equipment, the opportunity to bring 3D printed product to consumers in larger quantities will be a more practical reality."

JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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UPCOMING ISSUES

2016 PRE-SHOW ISSUE

VO LU M E 4 6 I I S S U E 3 VOLUME 49 ISSUE 2

2016 SPRING ISSUE

2016

RETAIL TOP THE 2016 40 UNDER 40

SGB Ranks the 100 Top U.S. Sporting Goods Retailers in 2015

THE YOUNG LEADERS WHO ARE TRANSFORMING THE INDUSTRY

COMING IN JUNE 40 UNDER 40 CELEBRATING THE INDUSTRY'S BEST YOUNG TALENT Ad Space Closed

COMING IN JULY RETAIL TOP 100 THE MOST POPULAR ISSUE OF THE YEAR Ad Close 7/8

COMING IN OCTOBER INNOVATORS OF THE YEAR Ad Close 9/16

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INDUSTRY CALENDAR

JUNE 9-10

Womens Running and Fitness Event Chicago, IL

13-17

Grassroots Spring Summit & Connect Albuquerque, NM

SEPTEMBER 1 Worldwide Fall Show Reno, NV 8-10 Imprinted Sportswear Show Orlando, FL 8-10

Surf Expo Orlando, FL

JULY

14-15

SFIA Industry Leaders Summit Denver, CO

13-17 IDEA World Fitness Convention Los Angeles, CA

21-23 Interbike Las Vegas, NV

14-17

ADA Spring Show Orlando, FL

25-28 NBS Fall Market Ft. Worth, TX

12-15

ASA-ICAST International Fishing Expo Orlando, FL

26-28 OIA Rendezvous Denver, CO

13-16 17-19

European Outdoor Trade Fair Friedrichshafen, Germany

23-25 Sports Inc. Athletic Show Minneapolis, MN

Project New York NY, NY

26-28 Shop.org Digital Summit 2016 Dallas, TX OCTOBER 6-8 Imprinted Sportswear Show

AUGUST 2-4 FFANY

13-14

2

Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Open Air Demo Salt Lake City, UT

27-30 NASGW Annual Meeting & Expo New Orleans, LA

3-6

Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Salt Lake City, UT

11-13

Sports Inc. Outdoor Show Minneapolis, MN

15-17

EORA Greenville Summer Show Greenville, SC

15-17

MAGIC Show Las Vegas, NV

15-17

Agenda Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV

23-25 EORA Summer Market Killington, VT 28-1 30-2

Worldwide Fall Show Reno, NV NBS Fall Semi-Annual Market

30-4 Eurobike Friedrichshafen, Germany

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The Retailing Summit Dallas, TX

27-30 ADA Fall Buying Show Glendale, AZ NOVEMBER 7-11 Grassroots Fall Summit & Connect Knoxville, TN 14-16

NBS Fall Athletic Show

17-19

Athletic Business Conference & Expo Orlando, FL

20-22 Sports Inc. Fall Team Dealers Show Las Vegas, NV 29-2

The Running Event Orlando, FL

DECEMBER 1-2 The Running Event Orlando, FL

TRADE ASSOCIATIONS BUYING GROUPS Athletic Dealers of America 1395 Highland Avenue Melbourne, FL 32935 t 321.254.0091 athleticdealersofamerica.com National Shooting Sports Foundation Flintlock Ridge Office Center 11 Mile Hill Road Newtown, CT 06470 t 203.426.1320 nssf.org National Sporting Goods Association 1601 Feehanville Drive I Suite 300 Mount Prospect, IL 60056 t 847.296.6742 nsga.org Nation’s Best Sports 4216 Hahn Blvd. Ft. Worth, TX 76117 t 817.788.0034 nbs.com Outdoor Industry Association 4909 Pearl East Circle I Suite 300 Boulder, CO 80301 t 303.444.3353 outdoorindustry.org Sports & Fitness Industry Association 8505 Fenton Street I Suite 211 Silver Spring, MD 20910 t 301.495.6321 sfia.org Snow Sports Industries America 8377-B Greensboro Drive McLean, VA 22102 t 703.556.9020 snowsports.org Snowsports Merchandising Corp. 235 Cadwell Drive Springfield, MA 01104 t 413.739.7331 Snowsportsmerchandising.com Sports, Inc. 333 2nd Avenue North Lewistown, MT 59457 t 406.538.3496 sportsinc.com Sports Specialists Ltd. 590 Fishers Station Drive I Suite 110 Victor, NY 14564 t 585.742.1010 sportsspecialistsltd.com Tennis Industry Association 1 Corpus Christi Place I Suite 117 Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 t 843.686.3036 tennisindustry.org Worldwide 8211 South 194th Kent, WA 98032 t 253.872.8746 wdi-wdi.com

JUNE 20, 2016 | SGBWeekly.com

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Actionable Weekly Sales Trend Reporting for the Active Lifestyle Market

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