OutThere Colorado Summer/Fall 2022

NATURE CENTER!

SECRETS Learn The OF THE GARDEN

Before You Visit The Park

DYNAMIC

•Interactive, educational, and fun exhibits

•See the Theiophytalia kerri dinosaur - discovered only in the Garden

• Explore the Park’s converging ecosystems

•Mountain Majesties, a virtual tour of Colorado’s highest peaks

• Wide-angle, time-lapse video of the Garden through the seasons

• Giant 3D interactive Topographic map

A show millions of years in the making In the Geo-Trekker Theater

• Journey through time and space to learn about the Garden of the Gods

•A fun, exciting, entertaining and educational 12 minute HD movie adventure

•$6 for adults, $4 for children ages 5-12

• FREE Maps, Daily Nature Walks, Adventure Programs, Hiking, Summer Segway, Jeep and 1909 Trolley Tours, Guided Rock Climbing, Bike Rentals and Guided eBike Tours

•Bean Sprouts® Café - Dine indoor or outdoor with a world famous view •Award Winning Gift Shop Specializing in Colorado-made items

OUTTHERE COLORADO IS

SOLD ON SUMMER

By Spencer McKee

Summer is right around the corner. Visit OutThereColorado.com to find a wide array of content that centers on Colorado’s outdoor recreation community. From breaking news to adventure recommendations, OutThere Colorado aims to keep its readers informed, inspired and on the go. Looking for a weather forecast? We’ve got that. Looking for suggestions on a trip to the mountains? We’ve got that. Looking for detailed trail reports? We’ve got that, too.

Whether you’re a hiker, cyclist, off-road enthusiast or just someone out there for the scenic view, OutThere Colorado is the online place for you.

PERFECTLY PEACHY

Precious fruit helps define Palisade

FLOWER POWER

Where to find the state’s wildflowers

ICONIC ITINERARY

Relive Wild West era with this journey

HIT THE ROAD

Scenic byways are abundant in Colorado

MAKE A DATE

Sixty festivals to keep you entertained

RIVER REALITY

Whitewater rafting trip on the Arkansas

INTO THE WILD

Pristine beauty awaits in the wilderness

LOCAL FLAVORS

Tips for tackling scenic Chaffee County

OUTTHERE COLORADO STAFF

Spencer McKee Director of Content and Operations

Tamera Twitty Digital Content Creator

Nichole Montanez Magazine Designer

CONTACT

info@outtherecolorado.com facebook.com/outtherecolorado instagram.com/outtherecolorado twitter.com/outthereco pinterest.com/outthereco

Nathan Van Dyne Magazine Editor

Christian Murdock Magazine Photographer

Seth Boster Magazine Reporter

Fall doesn’t take a back seat to any season in Colorado. It’s the best time to view stunning colors and animals.

STILL A RUSH

By Seth Boster

Gold, silver have been replaced by adventure in Colorado’s mountains

Fish Creek Falls in Steamboat Springs. Christian Murdock

Whenever she’s hosting friends or family at her Breckenridge home, Elisabeth Lawrence takes them out to a place in the woods, a place of disturbed earth, dug-up piles all around from more than a century ago.

She takes them to a pond, where rests the Reiling Dredge. It was one of those that did the digging, one of those fueling the area’s gold boom of the late 1800s.

It might not look like much now, a skeleton of splintered, rotting timber. But to Lawrence, the dredge is special.

“I think it shows a different side of Summit County, a different side of Breckenridge,” the county commissioner said. “Like, this is really who we are. This was the Colorado pioneer spirit.”

The Colorado spirit today is still gritty in a way — in the way hiking and biking long, hard miles is gritty, or straining ourselves along sheer rock faces is gritty or charging through rollicking whitewater is gritty. We are ambitious still, the mountains still our inspiration. They call to us not so much

for gold anymore, but for something equally, inexplicably precious in our souls.

Of course, we have luxuries now that the miners didn’t have. Luxuries such as Gore-Tex, for example. Or a craft beer at the end of the trail. Or any number of gourmet eateries. Or any number of overnight accommodations in which to rest our weary bones.

All of that can be found in Breckenridge, just one example of Colorado’s economic transformation from mining to tourism.

Where once people rushed for riches, now they rush for adventure. Since the pandemic, they’ve come in numbers like never before — at least not since that first rush.

This isn’t the Wild West of whiskey-swilling prospectors and gunslingers anymore, but it’s still the Wild West in other ways. The streets of our most historic towns are packed, and the surrounding hills are deluged as well, as in times of yore.

It is a transformation we aim to capture in this magazine, serving as a glimpse into the bustling past and a guide to

TIMELINE

By Seth Boster

Colorado would not be booming today were it not for the mining booms of the past. The frenzy put the territory on the map before it was recognized as a state in 1876.

Here’s a timeline covering the most significant era of the industry:

1858: Prospectors make camp along the banks of the South Platte River and call their new home Montana City. Gold is discovered around the river’s junction with Cherry Creek, near what is now downtown Denver. Success is little, but a central point is established for a coming migration.

1859: The “Pikes Peak or bust” mantra is heard around the nation, and Colorado’s first great gold rush is on. Also this year, the town of Fairplay is established amid rich fields near 10,000 feet. Miners would forge ahead, over the Continental Divide, to develop another gold placer district called Breckenridge.

Sailboats skim across Dillon Reservoir in Summit County.

Chancey Bush

destinations bustling now.

It is a transformation that’s been detailed in an exhibit in Breckenridge, showcasing the town’s grimy beginnings and glitzy, resort present. Along with the dredge, Lawrence has been directing visitors to that.

When she views it, “my mouth hangs open, stunned,” she said. She’s stunned looking at those black-and-white photos of Breckenridge’s first boom. She’s stunned when she looks out to the town now.

“I would certainly say busier now,” Lawrence said. “It was very busy then, but people were so spread out; they were at their claims.”

Spreading out — a plight for many outdoorsy Coloradans finding their once-quiet places widely discovered.

It was a plight referenced in an announcement heading into the summer: The U.S. Forest Service ranger districts in Salida and Leadville sought input regarding potential changes to camping in the vicinity. To observers, it signaled changes that have been enacted at popular grounds all

around the state. Reservations are now required for many sites once free to grab.

“The growing desire for public land use brings increased pressure on forest resources, an uptick in user conflicts and a rise in human-caused wildfire occurrences,” Salida Ranger District recreation program manager Ben Lara said in a news release.

Amid drought and a string of record blazes over the past decade, onlookers expect another summer of campfire bans. “Unfortunate,” said Jeffrey Larson, mayor of Creede, the once-mighty silver epicenter now a sightseeing gateway to the San Juan Mountains.

But Larson understands the restrictions. “The world has changed,” he said.

In many more ways than one.

In Leadville, where some of Colorado’s first millionaires were made at the mines, now some of the boldest runners and cyclists flock for an iconic, 100-mile race. Heading into the summer, that too was being scrutinized by the Forest

1860: A party led by Charles Baker embarks deep into the San Juan Mountains. Baker’s Park becomes known for mineral wealth, and more treasure seekers from the central mountains make the journey to the southwest.

1862: Golden City, now Golden, is the first territorial capital, before Denver takes the title later. Golden City, like Boulder City, is a supply center for mines and camps that spread to the western mountains. That includes the major bonanza settlement that begins at Gregory Gulch, prior to the Central City name. That area would be proclaimed as “the richest square mile on Earth.”

1864: Far south of Denver, near what would be the state’s border with New Mexico, coal mining is underway. A massive influx of workers comes from all over the world to start several camps surrounding present-day Trinidad.

Cripple Creek streets in 1898. Cripple Creek collection, courtesy of Pikes Peak Library District

Main Street in Creede comes to life in the summer. Christian Murdock

(continued from page 7)

Service. With a visitation surge during the pandemic, a study was “to see if those extra people on top of the event were causing issues that we weren’t aware of,” the ranger district’s permit coordinator said.

Mount Elbert, Colorado’s highest summit, is another draw around Leadville. During the pandemic wave, the trailhead parking lot for fellow fourteener Quandary Peak became subject to reservations, following an overall trend that started at Rocky Mountain National Park. Reservations are expected to continue this summer at Quandary, previously estimated to attract up to 50,000 hikers a year.

Yes, the world has changed. Look closely, though, and you’ll find reminders of the past.

Look, for example, to tiny San Luis. It’s considered Colorado’s oldest town, still proudly maintaining the Spanish influences that built it. In the surrounding San Luis Valley, the possibilities are endless: boating and fishing along Rio Grande River; hiking and biking the trails around Del

Norte; soaking in numerous hot springs; exploring North America’s tallest sand dunes.

And yet, the valley tends to be overlooked, said one who grew up there, Conor Hall. He’s the first-year director of Colorado’s Outdoor Recreation Industry Office.

“There’s places like that all around the state,” he said, offering another example in Moffat County. To the surprise of many, the northwest corner of the state is home to wild horses, sweeping terrain for off-roading and rugged, river-cut canyons, including those encompassing Dinosaur National Monument.

“Their market forces are closing down, the extractive economy that has been up there,” Hall said. “So we want to see if there’s a way to kind of buttress some of those jobs from that economy with the (outdoor recreation) economy. ... If we’re able to do it well and really fortify those local economies, then I think we will also be able to take some stress off some of our more well-known communities.”

1870: The first locomotive rolls through Denver on Denver Pacific Railroad, signifying broader economic possibilities for mines and more.

1873: Yule marble is discovered in Crystal River Valley. These gleaming, white deposits would go on to shape the state Capitol building and major landmarks in Washington, D.C., including the Lincoln Memorial.

1875: Back in the San Juan Mountains, Lake City is incorporated by Enos Hotchkiss and others. Word spreads of Hotchkiss’ “Golden Fleece” find, transforming the town of tents and cabins into a city of thousands. Also, prospectors revive activity around Baker’s Park, establishing Silverton. Present-day Ouray booms as well.

1876: With the expansion of Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, Trinidad is incorporated to be a supply and transportation center for the region’s coal. The quality of coal allows for the production of coke, which allows for the production of steel. Steel would become the lifeblood of Pueblo, what eventually would be Colorado’s second biggest city.

Wildflowers below Mount Elbert in Leadville. Jerilee Bennett

Communities such as Aspen, another one of those that went from mining to tourism.

Glimpses into the old days are there, too. Just belly up to the bar at 133-year-old Hotel Jerome and listen for the ghosts of silver seekers.

Likely, you’re there for the modern spoils — the apres eats, shops, concerts and festivals that come with a view.

Summer in town is “really magical,” said Skippy Mesirow, who initially came for skiing. “The phrase you always hear is, ‘Come for winter and stay for summer,’ and it’s just so true.”

On City Council, Mesirow’s focus has been that of many counterparts in mountain towns all around Colorado: the housing crisis. Where poor immigrants from around the globe came to make it in mining, now the places they built seem reserved for the well-off.

Officials have taken a closer look at codes aimed at preserving

the Victorian, scenic nature of their towns — codes aimed at preventing high-rise apartments, for example. Those are codes prolonging the crisis, some say.

“Where do you put density, height if you will, that is not gonna change the character of the community?” said Todd Brown, longtime member of Telluride’s museum board and town council.

It’ll take compromise around Breckenridge, Lawrence said.

“What keeps people wanting to come here is the specialness of it,” she said, “and if we just keep developing, we’re going to lose that.”

It’s something she might contemplate on a visit to the Reiling Dredge. It’s a quiet place there in the woods, a place where it’s easy to reflect and imagine the people who came not so long ago.

“Little did they know what it would turn into,” Lawrence said.

6 FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS NAMES FROM COLORADO’S WILD WEST

Mining might have settled Colorado, but a curious cast of characters helped define it. Here are some:

Chief Ouray (pictured): He came to Colorado at a young age from his native Taos, N.M., where the U.S. Army laid siege during the Mexican-American War. As leader of the Ute Tabeguache band, he was equally respected by his people and those who threatened their way of life. He went as far as Washington, D.C., to try to negotiate peace.

John Henry “Doc” Holliday: Seemingly fated for a respectable life as a dentist, Doc went another direction after a tuberculosis diagnosis. He went to the healthier climate of the southwest, where he launched his dangerous life as a gambler and gunfighter. Among later stops were Denver, Pueblo, Leadville and his final resting place in Glenwood Springs.

Robert LeRoy Parker (“Butch Cassidy”): In Telluride, a building that formerly housed the San Miguel Valley Bank stands to recall the origins of a most infamous outlaw. This is known as the first bank Butch Cassidy robbed, on June 24, 1889, before his rebellious crusade beyond Colorado.

James Beckwourth: Born into slavery in 1798 Virginia, he fled to attain legendary status as a fur trapper, explorer and mountain man in the untamed West. He was said to have learned the ways of hunting, fishing and nature from Indigenous people — skills employed by Bent’s Fort, the trading post now based in southern Colorado. He died in 1867 around present-day Denver.

Wyatt Earp: The storied lawman/gambler picked Colorado as his hideout after the big shootout at O.K. Corral in Tombstone, Ariz. He laid low in Trinidad for a while; he reportedly dealt cards at a saloon there before packing up for Gunnison. He also lived briefly in Silverton.

Margaret Brown: She’s better known as the Unsinkable Molly Brown, for her surviving the Titanic disaster. She was a socialite around Denver, having made it rich on her husband’s mine in Leadville. She left her mark in plenty of other ways too, leading causes for women’s suffrage, labor rights and the juvenile justice system.

— SETH BOSTER

1879: In the previous decade, the gold of California Gulch dried up. But now the area bustles again with the discovery of silver, in high demand for the federal government to manufacture money. Fortunes, such as those of Horace Tabor’s, would be made, and a city called Leadville would boom.

1890: The last great gold rush to Colorado starts after Bob Womack strikes gold in what would be Cripple Creek. Millionaires such as Winfield Scott Stratton would be made, and a city to the east would gain world renown: Colorado Springs.

1893: The Sherman Silver Purchase Act is repealed, meaning Leadville goes bust. The town is forced to shape a new economic destiny, along with Silverton and another town that grew thanks to silver: Aspen.

1894: The National Guard is called to Cripple Creek in the wake of violence between workers and anti-union forces. Similar tension boils south around Pueblo and Trinidad, eventually leading to the Ludlow Massacre.

MUSEUMS THAT UNEARTH COLORADO’S WILD HISTORY

By Seth Boster

Colorado’s rough and rowdy days can be hard to recall in the mountain towns where they unraveled. Many of these places have opted for the glitz and glamour of resorts. But all around are bases where that history is preserved. Here are some museums showcasing the state’s wild past:

Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site, La Junta

The National Park Service calls this the “Castle of the Plains.” It’s a reconstruction of the adobe trading post that rose in the 1830s to be a bustling place for Native Americans and travelers along Santa Fe Trail. Interpreters in uniform show several rooms and shops as they were seen decades before Colorado was a state.

Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave, Golden

Prior to his death in 1917, William “Buffalo Bill” Cody wished for the top of Lookout Mountain to be his final resting place. Evidently, he liked the view. You will too as you make your winding way up the road to this site celebrating the legendary bison hunter and showman.

Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center & Museum, Dolores

This is the starting point for Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, a far-reaching landscape of stunning remains from the Ancestral Puebloans, who made home in this Four Corners region 1,400 years ago. A four-room pueblo sits in front of the museum. Inside, tools of bone and stone along with weapons and pottery are displayed.

Colorado Railroad Museum, Golden

“Lose track of time” is the motto here. One might do that inside a building fashioned in the likeness of a small-town depot from the 1880s. This space chronicles Colorado’s mighty, sometimes perilous, railroading era. But the real draws are the historic locomotives and cabooses. Kids and kids at heart will love the gentle rides on the rails.

Cokedale Museum

While history in Trinidad is as well-kept as the town’s red brick Main Street, lesser-known is the smaller coal camp to the west. It’s just off the Highway of Legends, across from the field where century-old coke ovens are in view. Cokedale calls itself “a model camp” and a model in conservation. The museum is in the former general store.

Gilpin History Museum, Central City

The museum is housed in an 1870s school that continues as a hub of education. Visitors learn about the daily life that once was in this former mining capital, everything from the socialites, to the prospectors, to the gunslingers, to the ladies of the night ... and a wooden submarine recovered from a high-mountain lake.

Museum of the West, Grand Junction

Amid the stores and eateries of downtown Grand Junction, there are several ways to transport to scenes of the Wild West. Use your imagination in a stagecoach or in a replicated saloon. Or in observing the guns of outlaws, art of the Ute or ancient artifacts of the Anasazi.

National Mining Hall of Fame & Museum, Leadville

It’s only appropriate this town is home to this ultimate showcase of the industry that birthed Colorado. Leadville has known many booms and busts, as you’ll learn across nearly 70 exhibits. The hall of fame counts about 260 men and women, all with stories that paint the picture of an era gone by.

Overland Trail Museum, Sterling

Stretching through the northeast prairie, Overland Trail tends to be forgotten despite its massive significance. It was said to be America’s most trafficked route in the 1860s, as many followed the South Platte River to shape Colorado as we know it. This impressive museum includes several early buildings from local settlements.

Quarry Exhibit Hall, Dinosaur National Monument

Now we’re going much further back than cowboys and Indians, long before any man or civilization. While the natural surroundings are extraordinary in their own right, the monument’s main attraction is this exhibit near Colorado’s northwest border with Utah. A wall encases about 1,500 bones of extinct beasts.

THE BROADMOOR An American Masterpiece

AWARD-WINNING AMENITIES

• 5-Star Spa and Fitness Center

• 2 Championship Golf Courses

• 3 Pools, including Seasonal Infinity Pool

• 5 Tennis Courts

• 3 Pickleball Courts

EXCEPTIONAL DINING & RETAIL

• An Abundance of Distinct Restaurants, Cafés and Lounges on Property

• 19 Unique Retail Outlets

AUTHENTIC, ALL-INCLUSIVE WILDERNESS PROPERTIES

• Cloud Camp

• The Ranch at Emerald Valley

• Orvis-Endorsed Fly Fishing Camp

BOUNDLESS ADVENTURE

• All NEW Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway

• The Broadmoor Seven Falls

• The Broadmoor Soaring Adventure

• Falconry Academy at The Broadmoor

• Hiking

• Mountain Biking

• Horseback Riding

• Fly Fishing

• On-Site Bowling Alley

INFINITE MEETING & CONFERENCE SPACE

• Over 315,000 Square Feet of Indoor & Outdoor Meeting Space

• Convention Center at The Broadmoor featuring the Brand NEW Bartolin Hall

• Easy Non-stop Service via Colorado Springs Airport

• Estate Collection featuring Cottages, Brownstones and the Estate House

• Breathtaking Wedding Venues

• 784 On-Site Guest Rooms & Suites

• The Broadmoor Connection

SUMMER SPOTLIGHT PALISADE

By Seth Boster

Driving through the desert of far western Colorado, something like a dream appears. Between the dirt and rock faces of buttes and mesas, there’s an ocean of green waving along Interstate 70.

That’s not a mirage. That’s Palisade, an irresistible detour en route to Grand Junction. A detour, or a dream worth a longer stay.

If you know Palisade, you know it for the peaches. That green is the canopy bearing the sweetest of fruits blessed by this rarest of soil.

Sweet, too, are the people you’ll find around the quaint town of modest cottages and storefronts. Palisade feels like something out of Huckleberry Finn. It’s not a mirage, but to Colorado’s city folk, there is something unreal about Palisade, a nostalgic slice of a state that constantly changes.

Go get a taste:

Palisade peach orchard. Jerilee Bennett

Life’s a peach

During the harvest from late June to early October, you won’t have a problem locating the bounty. Simply drive the country roads stemming every which way from town.

Clark Family Orchards and Talbott Farms are two of the biggest producers around. You’ll find plenty of stands along the way, all selling peaches by the basket and pies and jams and other family-favorite recipes.

While peaches get all the attention, there’s another unforgettable sight around Palisade that outsiders don’t talk about as much. Those are the lavender fields, carpets of purple. Check out Sage Creations Farm.

Expand your palate

It’s not only peaches in the Grand Valley. It’s a plentiful valley of apples, apricots, plums, cherries and grapes. Emphasis on grapes. Almost as famous as the fruit is the wine. More than 20 wineries have sprouted around the town’s 1-mile radius.

You can chart a course on the Palisade Fruit & Wine Byway, a map divided into three routes for drivers and cyclists. Stops include Palisade Brewing Co., Talbott’s Cider Co. and Meadery of the Rockies.

Foodies will find bliss as well with elevated cuisine at Pêche. and Caroline’s Restaurant, hearty pub grub at the brewery and 357 Bar & Grill, and made-fromscratch delights at Slice O Life Bakery.

Go beyond

With a name like Grand, it behooves you to see more of the valley. Fill up the tank for the 63-mile Grand Mesa Scenic Byway, a ribbon of road through the enchanting beauty of the world’s largest flattop mountain. That drive starts to the east of Palisade, while to the west, from Grand Junction, you can start the journey on Rim Rock Drive. That’s the ultimate, 23-mile tour of Colorado National Monument, that wonderland of rock.

If you’re a serious mountain biker, you already know about the singletrack that awaits in the canyonlands around Fruita. And if you’re a really serious mountain biker, you might want to stick closer to Palisade with the newly opened Palisade Plunge. It’s an epic, 32-mile descent into town from the flanks of the Grand Mesa.

BACK IN TIME

By Seth Boster

10 ways to relive the past in Colorado

Long after their heydays, several mines in Colorado carry on as tourist destinations. And in parks and streams, gold still awaits seekers with the hand tools and know-how. If digging and panning, be aware that some locations require permits. Here are options to relive that hard-knock era:

Mollie Kathleen Gold Mine, Cripple Creek

It’s no longer Pikes Peak or bust in Cripple Creek — unless you’re referencing the slots — but this 1,000-foot vertical shaft still drops to the once-rich underbelly. The mine is named for the first woman to strike a claim in the gold camp.

Hidee Gold Mine, Central City

No luck at the casinos? No problem. Just head over to this tour and chip away at the gold veins and then go panning. Keep what you find. The Hidee sits along what was once proclaimed “the richest square mile on Earth.”

Argo Mill and Tunnel, Idaho Springs

The mill represents what was once considered a stateof-the-art facility, advancing the ways of extraction at the mouth of the tunnel. You’ve surely seen the red facade on a hillside along Interstate 70. Now get a closer look at the original worksite, equipment and cavernous portal.

Phoenix Gold Mine, Idaho Springs

This has been a working mine in recent years, owned and operated by a man whose family goes three generations back in mining — back to the heyday of the Wild West. Walk 500 feet through the gold-laden tunnel and hear tales of adventure and misadventure. You might hear something else peculiar as the mine has a paranormal reputation.

Country Boy Mine, Breckenridge

The mine has known many lives over 135 years. Gold and silver in the 1880s and ‘90s. Lead and zinc during the world wars. And now tourists. A headlamp lights the way 1,000 feet into the mine. Kids also will love the separate treasure hunt, as well as the burros.

Bachelor Syracuse Mine, Ouray

You won’t end up like the three owners who went into the mine and came out with $250,000 in 1890s money. But you’ll come out with memories. Put on your hard hat and proceed 1,500 feet into Gold Mountain on a guided tour in which you’ll learn triumphs and trials of the past. There is also panning at a nearby stream.

Old Hundred Gold Mine, Silverton

The thinking is the original owners of the mine, German brothers, named it for the “Old Hundredth” hymn. “Praise God, from whom all blessings flow,” it goes. The gold flowed, all right. Still does. Guests embark into the heart of Galena Mountain to see old tools and machines in action on the walls still bearing gold.

Clear Creek Canyon Park

Just west of Denver, this park serves as a close, accessible bet for panning. They know late summer is typically best, when flows are lower. Jefferson County officials have posted signs for permissible areas along the creek.

Fairplay Prospecting Park

At the center of Colorado’s early gold rush, this town owns a short, shimmering stretch of stream. Enthusiasts have tested their luck at the park along Platte Drive, south of the U.S. 285 and Colorado 9 intersection.

Cache Creek

This has been a favorite for seasoned prospectors desiring a more wild environment. The Bureau of Land Management controls the site between Leadville and Buena Vista. It’s along Lost Canyon Road off U.S. 24.

HISTORY LESSONS

Relive the past, embrace the present at these five historic mountain towns

By Seth Boster

Breckenridge

Claim to fame: Gold was discovered along the Blue River in 1859, attracting waves of people who would create Breck as we know it today. In 1887, a 131/2-pound gold nugget was unearthed, considered the largest of its kind ever in Colorado.

Today: The town revolves around the ski resort, with plenty to do in the summer at Epic Discovery. Main Street is lined by shops and eateries, including staples such as Breckenridge Brewery and Downstairs at Eric’s. People rave about the food as much as the whiskey at Breckenridge Distillery. Can’t leave town without a stop at Crêpes à la Cart.

Sites to see: The dirt road over Boreas Pass follows the old railway that was one of the highest in North America. It leads past 1880s remnants, cresting at the depot site near 11,500 feet. Down in town, some of the oldest buildings are preserved, including the Polluck house, Chinese Laundry house, Edwin Carter house and Iowa Hill boarding house. Barney Ford Museum is located in the former abode of Barney Ford, the escaped slave-turned-entrepreneur whose influence was felt in town.

What else: The paved recreation path explores all of Summit County. Nearby Frisco Bay Marina is a classic summer scene, one entry point to Dillon Reservoir. Back in Breck, a short trail leads to a famous resident: Isak Heartstone the troll.

Old railway on Boreas Pass in Breckenridge. Christian Murdock

Crêpes à la Cart in Breckenridge. Chancey Bush

Creede

Claim to fame: The silver boom is credited to Nicholas Creede, who in 1889 struck a vein in East Willow Creek Canyon. A tent village moved downstream, quickly giving rise to a business district. When word spread of Creede selling his mine to investors for $70,000, a bigger rush was on. Those investors were tied to Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, which grew the town further.

Today: Creede’s welcome signs reads “The LAST Great Place.” You’ll find that pride comes from the small-town charm, felt in the modest shops and eateries. It’s not the mines that people come here for anymore, but instead the one-of-a-kind experience at Creede Repertory Theatre.

Sites to see: Bachelor Loop travels 17 miles above town, through the canyon that gave birth to Creede. You’ll see shafts and structures still holding on from those days, along with mesmerizing scenery. The museum at Last Chance Mine provides a more intimate education, as does the museum back in town, housed in the old train depot.

What else: About a 30-minute drive from town on Colorado 149, mighty North Clear Creek Falls roars over a cliff. It’s a short walk from the parking lot.

For a much wilder drive — you’ll need a Jeep or ATV — a forest road leads to the majestic Wheeler Geologic Area. The colorful formations are also reached on foot by overnight backpackers.

Ouray

Claim to fame: Ute Chief Ouray couldn’t resolve tensions between his tribe and the white people who flooded this valley, sacred to tribes for the mountains and hot springs. There are pictures of the chief beside Otto Mears, the man responsible for what would be the Million Dollar Highway, stretching through many rich mines. There was thought to be more than 30 around Ouray at the height of the industry. When the market collapsed and it seemed the remote town was fated to be abandoned, one C.L. Hall predicted otherwise: “Ouray is peerless. She will be famous as a mountain resort.”

Today: Hall was right. Ouray calls itself “the Switzerland of America” for obvious reasons. Also for obvious reasons, Ouray is vying for the lofty title of Colorado’s outdoors capital. A via ferrata was added in recent years, an iron path for climbers along the enveloping box canyon. Perimeter Trail is another way to tour town from above, admiring forests, waterfalls and stellar views along the way.

Sites to see: Straight through town, continue up Red Mountain Pass and come to mining relics of yesteryear. For more signature scenes, such as Tomboy Mine, you’ll need a four-wheeldrive vehicle. Same for the 65-mile Alpine Loop.

What else: Ouray Hot Springs Pool right in town. Inside the courthouse, you might recognize scenes from “True Grit.” The Outlaw Restaurant claims to have John Wayne’s hat, from when he was in the area filming.

Wheeler Geologic Area near Creede. Christian Murdock

Steamboat Springs

Claim to fame: The town traces its name to 1800s fur trappers, who supposedly confused the chugging of geothermal waters with that of a steam engine. The chugging of trains could be heard after 1909, when the railroad arrived and Steamboat became a key cattle shipping center. At Steamboat Resort, the statue of the cowboy skier sums up this town’s unique legacy. Decades before the resort, Norwegian Carl Howelsen founded Howelsen Hill in 1914, what is considered North America’s longest-going ski area.

Today: Steamboat Resort is a year-round destination and the economic lifeblood of town. Unlike many ski towns, however, the resort sits away from downtown, lending to a distinct flare in this commercial zone. One store is F.M. Light & Sons, an institution selling boots, hats and western wear for more than 100 years.

Sites to see: Hutchinson Ranch is one historic, publicly owned landmark demonstrating the old way of life. Several other family-run ranches and outfitters entertain guests for summer tours on horseback, introducing them to the land as their ancestors saw it. North of town, at the base of an extinct volcano called Hahns Peak, cabins and more remain from the homesteading era.

What else: Strawberry Park Hot Springs is perhaps Colorado’s most highly regarded soaking getaway. Emerald Mountain is the hub for hikers and mountain bikers of all types. Another wonder is Fish Creek Falls. You don’t have to be a green thumb to love Yampa River Botanic Park.

Trinidad

Claim to fame: The town’s iconic backdrop, Fishers Peak, saw roaming Native American tribes, then Spanish and Mexican traders along Santa Fe Trail, and then white families in wagons, braving the trip for a new life in the coal business. The mines also spelled tragedy, with several deadly explosions. Trinidad became the epicenter of a national movement for unions, widely watched amid protests and sometimes bloody battles.

Today: Trinidad saw a new economic destiny when Colorado legalized recreational marijuana. It’s seeing another future thanks to the expanding popularity of outdoor recreation. The 19,200 acres around Fishers Peak is now a state park; a small portion is open while development continues across the second biggest site in the state park portfolio. Also beside Interstate 25 is Trinidad Lake State Park, ideal for fishing, boating and camping. On the surrounding country roads, a gravel biking scene has taken off. Artists have found their place in galleries along Main Street.

Sites to see: The Comanche National Grassland sprawls east of town, undeveloped and unchanged from the pioneer days. To the north is the Ludlow Massacre Site, remembering the most infamous day in the labor fight. Back in town, Temple Aaron stands as Colorado’s oldest synagogue, having been constructed in 1889.

What else: About 8 miles away, near Cokedale, the coke ovens used for processing the region’s mineral are still in view. That’s along the Highway of Legends, an underrated drive passing more historic and natural eye candy en route to Cuchara.

By Seth Boster

IN FULL BLOOM

Colorado’s best wildflower displays typically arrive in July and August. Crested Butte, with its renowned wildflower festival slated for July 8-17, is always a hot spot for viewing. Here are other destinations to consider:

9 classic wildflower hikes in Crested Butte

AMERICAN BASIN

This is a magical stop along the Alpine Loop, which will require a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle. It’s a feast for the eyes along the rugged track, commonly ventured from Lake City. The basin is a splash of color, surrounded by dramatic peaks and fed by a cascading creek.

INDIAN PEAKS WILDERNESS

Perhaps make Nederland your base, the hamlet through the canyon west of Boulder. The Hessie Trail is heavily trafficked — go on a weekday if you can — and for good reason. The flora captivates en route to Lost Lake and Devil’s Thumb Lake farther afield.

ROXBOROUGH STATE PARK

Due to its proximity to Denver, this is another spot to expect crowds; on weekends, it’s common for parking to reach capacity. But this is a good bet to catch some of the state’s iconic blooms such as larkspur, lupin and lilies in a wonderland of red rocks.

SUMMIT COUNTY

Whether your path is easy or difficult, you can’t go wrong here. An easy option is Lily Pad Lake Trail, through a lush forest perfect for plants. The hike along Saw Mill Creek is also good for kids. For something higher and more demanding, look to Wheeler Lakes and South Willow Falls.

YANKEE BOY BASIN

Like American, Yankee Boy is another southwest Colorado basin of regular pilgrimage for flower admirers. Along with Indian paintbrush, columbines and bluebells — to name a few — you’ll get the intrigue of historic mining sites along the steep, rocky road outside of Ouray.

While Crested Butte is a special place year-round, the mountain town shines brightest during summer as visitors are engulfed by the vibrant colors of thousands of wildflowers.

There are many area trails that showcase the beautiful landscape. Each has a special time of year when specific types of wildflowers blossom and bloom. Here are a few to consider:

During late spring and early summer, Lupine Trail (5 miles) is loaded with corn lilies and lupines. For those seeking Indian paintbrush and larkspur, visit Lower Loop Trail (6.5 miles).

Rustlers Gulch Trail (9 miles) glows yellow with thousands of sunflowers from late June to mid July. The vibrant shades are accentuated by sneezeweed, scarlet gilia and larkspur. Hikers will be delighted by the state flower on

appropriately named Columbine Trail (4 miles).

For a picturesque hike in mid July, try Strand Bonus Trail (2.5 miles), where visitors will find penstemon and a large variety of flax as well as sage brush.

From mid July to mid August, the glorious colors of fireweeds and asters appear. Sunflowers also can be found at higher altitudes on trails such as Frigid Air Pass Trail (10 miles) or Hasley Pass Loop Trail (6 miles).

When temperatures start to dip in mid to late August, wildflowers such as goldeneye, Indian paintbrush and fleabane take over. Two great options to view these are Schofield Pass Loop Trail (5 miles) and Brush Creek Trail (4.5 miles). Hikers also will be delighted with the variety of orange, yellow and red hues radiating from the buckwheat.

— DANIEL SHOSKY

Wildflowers in Summit County. Seth Boster

By a lake. With a charming Main Street. And its own marina with rentals and waterside dining. TownofFrisco.com

A wild wild west ROADtrip around COLORADO

From ghost towns to gold mines to century-old saloons, the Wild West era is alive and well in the mountains of Colorado. Follow this road trip to see the same sights as cowboys, outlaws and famed western characters such as Doc Holliday.

Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum

There’s no better way to introduce yourself to the early years of Colorado than at this museum in downtown Colorado Springs (home to OutThere Colorado’s headquarters). The building features many exhibits that touch on various aspects of the state’s history, including some that focus on events of the Wild West era. One perk — admission is free.

Wild West Ghost Town Museum

Not far from Pioneers Museum, this attraction is designed to preserve the state’s Wild West history. It’s an indoor collection of structures that once were left to decay. Many still appear as they would have a century ago. This stop is suited for guests of all ages, with hands-on experiences sure to capture the attention of children and adults alike.

Mollie Kathleen Gold Mine Tour

For an up-close look at the early days of Colorado mining, head to Cripple Creek. An old elevator takes visitors 1,000 feet below ground for a tour that focuses on the region’s mining past and the mining process that put Colorado at the center of a mineral rush. Plus, all visitors receive a piece of gold ore that contains actual flakes of real gold.

Royal Gorge Bridge & Park

While the bridge wasn’t constructed until 1929, this Cañon City attraction offers a great look into the development of the mining and transportation infrastructure of Colorado’s past. Take in the scenic views and learn about how crucial this region was as the state’s economy started to thrive.

St. Elmo Ghost Town

Travel west on Chalk Creek Drive (County Road 162) from U.S. 285 between Salida and Buena Vista to find one of the most accessible and best preserved ghost towns in Colorado. Colorful buildings and educational displays provide a glimpse into what mountain life once was like in the Centennial State.

Buena Vista Heritage Museum

Built in 1882, the Old Chaffee County Courthouse now offers a chance to learn about life of yesteryear in the area, with artifacts that date to the 1800s. Also consider the Buena Vista wild west history tour by Salida Walking Tours. Visitors hear stories of shootouts and learn about the town’s former red light district.

Silver Dollar Saloon

No Wild West road trip through Colorado is complete without a stop at this historic site in Leadville. Serving customers since 1879, the atmosphere found here can almost transport patrons back in time. Previous visitors to the saloon include Doc Holliday, Margaret Brown (known posthumously as “The Unsinkable Molly Brown”) and Oscar Wilde.

COLORADO

By Spencer McKee

East Side Mining District

Those hoping to see mining ruins from the past can find plenty of relics in Leadville. During the summer, this 20-square-mile area boasts several easy-to-access county roads that wind through the mountainous landscape. The Route of the Silver Kings is one popular option to explore and can be found in the Leadville Heritage Guide online.

Frisco Historic Park & Museum

After traveling past Climax Mine and the ski resort of Copper Mountain, road-trippers will find themselves in Frisco, home to a great local museum. The self-guided tour includes many preserved buildings, artifacts and photographs that detail the early days of Summit County.

Loveland Pass

The road opened in 1869, granting access from Denver to Leadville before Colorado became a state. Imagine traveling this route a century ago by wagon, prior to the opening of the Eisenhower-Johnson tunnels and Interstate 70. The summit is part of the Continental Divide.

Georgetown Loop Railroad

Discover Colorado’s mining past on a railroad tour that showcases stunning views. Take a narrow gauge train ride through Clear Creek County, book a silver mine tour and pan for gold with the kids. While in Georgetown, visit the Gothic Revival-style Hamill House, still pristine in its original fashion from the 1870s.

American Museum of Western Art

“Step back into the American West, where art and history come together,” the website beckons. This Denver display spans nearly two centuries of western history. Much of the formerly private collection now turned public was curated by billionaire and Wild West aficionado Philip Anschutz over the course of 50 years.

Four Mile Historic Park

Open Friday through Sunday, this attraction offers “a portal into Denver’s Western heritage, with historically accurate replicas, a working farm with horses, goats, chickens and pigs, and the site of Denver’s oldest standing structure.” Come to this spot ready to learn and leave with a newfound appreciation of the past.

Flying W Ranch

End the trip back in Colorado Springs with a large feast seemingly straight from the Wild West. Meals here seek to recreate the chuckwagon supper served to old west ranchers and cattle-drivers. Once destroyed by the 2012 Waldo Canyon fire, this attraction had a grand reopening in 2020. Summer means BBQ dinners along with shows by the Flying W Wranglers.

Roads TO GLORY

By Seth Boster

Colorado is home to 13 national scenic byways — the most of any state.

The U.S. Department of Transportation established the list in 1991 “to help recognize, preserve and enhance roads that meet one or more ‘intrinsic qualities.’” Those qualities include natural, recreational, archaeological and cultural. Also called America’s Byways, 184 have been deemed worthy. Here’s a closer look at Colorado’s national scenic byways:

Highway of Legends

Length: 82 miles

Crossing: Walsenburg, La Veta, Cuchara, Trinidad

Incorporating: U.S. 160, Colorado 12

The lore is in the rocks, in formations that go by names such as Devil’s Staircase. That is among the dikes radiating from the Spanish Peaks. Also on Colorado 12 en route to La Veta, there rises a sentinel butte that native people knew as a guardian.

Silver Thread

Length: 117 miles

Crossing: Lake City, Creede, South Fork Incorporating: Colorado 149

Blue Mesa Reservoir is a 9,180-surface-acre symbol of development, while farther along the wilds remain in full command. Announcing tiny Lake City is the picturesque Lake San Cristobal. You’ll pass North Clear Creek Falls on the way to Creede.

Colorado River Headwaters

Length: 69 miles

Crossing: Grand Lake, Hot Sulphur Springs, Kremmling Incorporating: U.S. 34, U.S. 40, Colorado 9, Colorado 131 Grand Lake, home to Colorado’s largest natural lake, is the starting point on the northeast end. The byway follows the iconic riverscape to the west, traversing narrow canyons and rolling ranchland to State Bridge, a whitewater destination outside Vail.

Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway

Length: 480 miles

Crossing: Grand Junction, Fruita, Rangely, Dinosaur Incorporating: U.S. 40, Colorado 64, U.S. 6, Interstate 70 “Takes 10 hours to drive or 10 days to enjoy,” reads the description by the Federal Highway Administration. This loop on the Colorado-Utah border grants desert and geologic wonder and, yes, up-close looks at bones at Dinosaur National Monument.

Independence Pass. Jerilee Bennett

Top of the Rockies

Length: 75 miles

Crossing: Leadville, Minturn, Twin Lakes, Aspen

Incorporating: Colorado 91, Interstate 70, U.S. 24, Colorado 82

The byway largely stays above 9,000 feet, straddling Eagles Nest Wilderness and crossing the Continental Divide twice. It visits mining basesturned-ski destinations on either end. In between is Leadville, the country’s highest incorporated community.

Gold Belt Tour

Length: 135 miles

Crossing: Cripple Creek, Cañon City, Florence

Incorporating: Colorado 67, Colorado 9, U.S. 50

From Florissant, the choice is threefold: veering east for the gold cities of the Pikes Peak or Bust era, and continuing on either Shelf Road or Phantom Canyon Road, two primitive tracks; or opting for High Park Road, leading straight to the Royal Gorge.

Grand Mesa

Length: 63 miles

Crossing: Cedaredge, Mesa

Incorporating: Interstate 70, Colorado 65

The byway’s namesake is the world’s largest flattop mountain, where stream-fed forests and meadows meet sky. The views are as varied as you can imagine from plateau floor to the alpine above 11,000 feet. A must-stop is Lands End Overlook.

Frontier Pathways

Length: 103 miles

Crossing: Pueblo, Colorado City, Silver Cliff, Westcliffe

Incorporating: Colorado 96, Colorado 165

The byway celebrates the journeys of Cuerno Verde, Juan Bautista de Anza and Zebulon Pike. Beyond the piñon countryside of Pueblo, the route is two-pronged: traveling the aspen-laden San Isabel National Forest and west to the Sangre de Cristos.

Lariat Loop

Length: 40 miles

Crossing: Morrison, Evergreen, Golden

Incorporating: U.S. 40, Interstate 70, U.S. 6 On one of the first designated national byways, the city fades in favor of foothills and rock outcrops. Lariat Loop is a lasso on the outskirts of Denver, connecting natural and historical intrigues such as Red Rocks Amphitheatre and the grave of Buffalo Bill.

San Juan Skyway

Length: 233 miles

Crossing: Ouray, Silverton, Durango, Telluride

Incorporating: U.S. 160, U.S. 550, Colorado 145 Along with Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park, this is Colorado’s other All-American Road, an exclusive category reserved for byways considered especially scenic and historic. The skyway boasts the awe-inspiring grandeur of the San Juans.

Santa Fe Trail

Length: 565 miles

Crossing: Lamar, La Junta, Trinidad, Santa Fe, N.M.

Incorporating: U.S. 50, Interstate 25

To follow this scenic byway is to follow the trade route paramount to westward expansion. One could start the trip on Colorado’s southeast plains, coming by the surprising oasis of John Martin Reservoir as well as Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site.

Trail of the Ancients

Length: 480 miles

Crossing: Cortez, Towaoc, Pleasant View

Incorporating: U.S. 160, U.S. 491

The route includes what has been called “the archaeological heartland of America.” Trail of the Ancients forms a double loop, one on Colorado’s desolate southwest corner and one across the border in Utah.

Trail Ridge Road

Length: 48 miles

Crossing: Estes Park, Grand Lake

Incorporating: U.S. 34

The road is legend, representing an engineering feat and Colorado’s signature majesty. “It is hard to describe what a sensation this new road is going to make,” the National Park Service director said during construction in 1931. It’s still hard to describe.

SOURCES: FEDERAL HIGHWAY ADMINISTRATION, COLORADO DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION

By Seth Boster

WILD RIDE

ESTES PARK • Many signs at Rocky Mountain National Park announce Old Fall River Road’s presence, as does the worldwide web, so the path cannot hide, hard as it may try.

A dirt lane sneaks up into the forest, a high-altitude escape from the pavement. I take it while the vehicles in front and behind continue on. It is that rare moment driving in America’s fifth most visited national park where traffic is nowhere to be found. The moment soon will be gone.

The road that set the trend for Rocky Mountain’s motorized mania is far from forgotten. Old Fall River became the park’s first vehicular route in 1920, taking tourists to panoramic vistas nearly 12,000 feet above sea level. And today the 9-mile, switchback-laden drive remains a favorite for park visitors.

They take advantage of the road while it’s open in summer, finishing at Alpine Visitor Center with information about this “land of harshness and beauty,” this tundra that is remarkably accessible considering its below-freezing temperatures most of the year. Here, trees stand bent and gnarled from blasts of winter wind. Flowers burst for weeks after surviving underground for many months, while the ptarmigan flies year-round thanks to feathered eyelids and nostrils.

Where it seems nature should rule is a gift shop of shirts and shot glasses and a cafe of hamburgers. Visitors observe grainy pictures of convicts and hired hands building Old Fall River with the help of horse-drawn wagons. In the crammed parking lot, rangers direct traffic off Trail Ridge Road, “the road in the sky” that in 1932 became the park’s main auto route.

Old Fall River lacks the “elk jams” that occur on Trail Ridge. And while the elk are missed, the congestion is not. On this summer Saturday, I pause only once for traffic. An SUV stalled behind me as I attempted to back out of a pull-out,

where I stopped to meet a marmot and take in the view: a verdant valley flanked by mountains with craggy sides, snowy sides and stream-fed sides carpeted in green.

A waterfall is the reason for another stop. Beside the silvery rush is a platform where I meet a local woman who’s been driving Old Fall River for years for these close encounters with nature — never mind the selfie-taking crowds around her that have grown every summer.

“Truly wild lands are rare in today’s world, and diminishing every day,” reads a sign at Fall River Visitor Center. A wall there displays a quote from Enos Mills, the naturalist known as the park’s father: “The Rockies stir one’s blood and strengthen and sweeten life.”

I find peace in a stroll through a meadow bursting with wildflowers. And up ahead I meet only satisfied people returning to Chapin Pass trailhead, where one couple reports experiencing “the most beautiful thing you’ll ever see” — the journey to Mount Chapin, with the trail linking to Mount Chiquita and Ypsilon Mountain at 13,514 feet. Now they return to their vehicle, one of the many lining this sixth mile of the road.

The views are most spectacular a couple of miles later, where the road skirts a basin and where several people have parked. A short, steep hike affords them a clear look at peaks as far as Wyoming.

“This is the ultimate up here,” says a Fort Collins man, another who tells me he frequents Old Fall River. He passes his binocular to others here, imploring them to look at the elk grazing on a distant hillside. Vehicles proceed as his daughter waves to drivers and points to the animals. She tells them to come see.

“You want to share this,” she says. “It should be shared.”

LEAVE THE CROWDS BEHIND ON HISTORIC OLD FALL RIVER ROAD

Old Fall River Road. James Wooldridge

Get adventurous in Colorado’s national parks

Embrace the wild side

By Seth Boster

Compared with 2018 and 2019 — pre-pandemic years — the numbers have dipped slightly under a reservation system aimed at crowd control. Still, Rocky Mountain National Park remains one of America’s busiest national parks, with 4.4 million visitors counted in 2021.

The trend is similar at Colorado’s other three national parks.

Also before the pandemic, Black Canyon of the Gunnison showed signs of mass discovery in its remote place on the Western Slope, surpassing 400,000 visits for the first time. The Great Sand Dunes cracked 600,000 last year for the first time in its almost 90-year recorded history. And in the state’s southwest corner, Mesa Verde continued a pattern of 500,000-plus in 2021.

The point: It’s increasingly hard to find the wild sides of the state’s premier nature treasures. For the most adventurous, we offer these tips:

Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve

You won’t be alone at the campgrounds. But they are no less a splendid place to drink in the celestial show that graces the sky over this otherworldly land. The sky is a designated International Dark Sky, for the Milky Way and galaxies that glimmer bright above. For a greater chance at solitude, you can secure a backcountry camping permit and venture into the swooping, soaring dune field, letting the moon and stars be your light as you go.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

The most popular way to experience this vertical realm is from above, from a vehicle along South Rim Drive. Perhaps the most memorable way: plunging straight into the canyon’s perilous depths. From South Rim, there are three standard routes: Gunnison (most traveled), Tomichi (most technical) and Warner (longest). You’ll need a permit for all — and, of course, a load of physical and mental might.

Mesa

Verde National Park

There’s a complex story of how the government acquired this amazing set of Indigenous cliff dwellings. On the other side is perhaps an even more impressive set across 125,000 acres, double the size of the national park. No, this is not Mesa Verde. This is Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park, owned and managed by the tribe and limited to outsiders who book in advance and explore with a guide. It’s different for how rugged and untouched it is.

Rocky

Mountain National Park

The park’s highest point is no hike, rangers warn. The 14,255-foot Longs Peak requires climbing skills, fitness, and mental and emotional fortitude. The faint of heart won’t fare well on the Keyhole route, so named for the narrow passage awaiting along a sheer, craggy face. That’s only one harrowing moment of a journey — which includes stretches called Trough, Narrows and Homestretch — covering 15 miles with 5,100 feet of elevation gain.

Great Sand Dunes National Park. Christian Murdock

AROUND

By Carlotta Olson

60 SUMMER FESTIVALS

MAY 26-30: Grand Old West Days, Moffat County Fairgrounds, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com.

MAY 27-29: Comedy Festival: Headliners from HBO, CBS, NBC and more, Vail; vailcomedyfestival.com.

MAY 27-30: CKS Paddle-Fest: Clinics, competitions and concerts along the Arkansas River, Buena Vista; ckspaddlefest.com.

MAY 27-30: Taste of Creede Festival: Fine arts & dining, Creede; creede.com.

MAY 28-30: Territory Days: This holiday tradition continues, Old Colorado City; shopoldcoloradocity.com.

MAY 28-30: Boulder Creek Festival: Music, marketplace, food and more, Boulder; bouldercreekfest.com.

JUNE 3-4: Summerfest on the Rio: Entertainers, artists, food, Cole Park, Alamosa; summerfestontherio.org.

JUNE 3-4: Mike the Headless Chicken Festival: Dedicated to the amazing story of one chicken’s will to live, Fruita; miketheheadlesschicken.org.

JUNE 3-5: Animas River Days: River surfing, inflatable rodeos, stand-up paddleboard race and more, Durango; animasriverdays.com.

JUNE 5-24: Summer Music Festival: Chamber and Orchestra Music, Colorado College, Colorado Springs; coloradocollege.edu.

JUNE 5-AUG. 7: Colorado Shakespeare Festival: The nation’s second oldest Shakespeare festival, Boulder; cupresents.org/series.

JUNE 7-12: GoPro Mountain Games: Adventure sports, with cycling, running, kayaking and more, Vail; mountaingames.com.

JUNE 10-12: Folk n’ Bluegrass Festival: Music with views, Pagosa Springs; folkwest.com.

JUNE 10-19: Lit Fest: Celebrating literary arts, Denver; lighthousewriters.org.

JUNE 11-12: Taste of Fort Collins: Food, music, art and more, Fort Collins; tasteoffortcollins.com.

JUNE 15: Colorado Springs Western Street Breakfast, Colorado Springs; cswesternstreetbreakfast.com.

JUNE 16-19: FIBArk: First In Boating on the Arkansas is America’s oldest whitewater festival, Salida; fibark.com.

JUNE 16-19: Sonic Bloom Festival: Colorado’s premier electronic music festival, Rye; sonicbloomfestival.com.

JUNE 16-19: Telluride Bluegrass Festival, Telluride; bluegrass.com/telluride.

JUNE 17-18: Spanish Peaks Music Festival: With lineup of country music, La Veta; spanishpeakscountry.com.

JUNE 17-19: Juneteenth Festival: Keynote speakers, car show, concerts and more, Colorado Springs; csjuneteenthfestival.com.

JUNE 17-19: BBQ Festival: Enjoy some brisket and live music, Empower Field at Mile High, Denver; denverbbqfest.com.

JUNE 17-19: Food and Wine Classic: Accomplished winemakers, celebrity chefs, and culinary experts come together, Aspen; classic.foodandwine.com.

JUNE 17-19: Strawberry Days Festival: Carnival, live music and strawberries, Glenwood Springs; strawberrydays.com.

JUNE 17-19: Botanica — A Festival of Plants: Workshops, presenters and more, Lafayette; botanicafestival.com.

JUNE 18-JULY 4: Green Box Arts Festival: More than 50 concerts, classes and more, Green Mountain Falls; greenboxarts.org.

JUNE 18-AUG. 7: Colorado Renaissance Festival: Journey through a medieval city, weekends, Larkspur; coloradorenaissance.com.

JUNE 22-25: Whittle the Wood Festival: All about woodworking, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com.

JUNE 23-25: Country Jam Music Festival, Grand Junction; countryjam.com.

JUNE 23-26: Jazz Aspen Snowmass June Experience: downtown Aspen; jazzaspensnowmass.org.

JUNE 23-AUG. 4: Bravo! Vail Music Festival, Vail; bravovail.org.

JUNE 24-26: Scandinavian Midsummer Festival: Music, dancing, Vikings and beer, Estes Park; estesmidsummer.com.

JUNE 24-26: Colorado Lavender Festival, Palisade; palisadecoc.com.

JUNE 25-26: Bacon and Bourbon Festival: Thousands of pounds of bacon and bacon-inspired cuisine, Keystone; keystonefestivals.com.

JUNE 25-26: Taco Festival: Chihuahua racing, music, tacos and more, Denver; denvertacofestival.com.

JUNE 25-26: Colorado Tiny House Festival: Tiny houses, yurts, van conversions and everything tiny, Brighton; coloradotinyhousefestival.com.

JULY 1-3: Cherry Creek Arts Festival: Celebration of visual, culinary and performing arts, Cherry Creek North, Denver; cherrycreekartsfestival.org.

JULY 2-31: Central City Opera Festival: With “The Light in the Piazza,” “Die Fledermaus” and more, Central City; centralcityopera.org/2022-festival.

JULY 6-10: The Ride Festival: Rock and roll music, Telluride; ridefestival.com.

JULY 7-10: High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass Festival, Westcliffe; highmountainhayfever.org.

JULY 8-17: Wildflower Festival, Crested Butte; crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com.

JULY 15-17: Mile High Global Bazaar — International Festival, Skyline Park, Denver; coloradoevents.org/mile-high-global-bazaar.

JULY 15-17: Gold Rush Days: Live music, food, beer, tractor pull, parade, mining games and more, Victor; victorcolorado.com.

JULY 20-23: Chainsaws and Chuckwagons: Masterful chainsaw carvers, music and food trucks, Frederick.

JULY 22-23: Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival: To promote outdoors and an active lifestyle, Cañon City; royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com.

JULY 23-24: Colorado Dragon Boat Festival: Take a trip to Asia, with exhibits and dragon boat racing, Denver; cdbf.org.

JULY 28-31: Buffalo Bill Days: Enjoy the wild west, Golden; buffalobilldays.com.

JULY 29-31: Underground Music Showcase: Colorado’s premier Indie festival, Denver; undergroundmusicshowcase.com.

JULY 29-31: Jazz Festival, Evergreen; evergreenjazz.org.

JULY 29-31: RockyGrass: Founded by Bill Monroe, the father of bluegrass, Lyons; bluegrass.com/rockygrass.

JULY 29-31: Burro Days: Races, parade and more, Fairplay; fairplayco.us.

JULY 29-AUG. 9: International Dance Festival: Celebration featuring ballet, modern dance and other genres, Vail; vaildance.org.

AUG. 5-7: SnowyGrass: Bluegrass Festival, bands, food and more, Estes Park; snowygrass.com.

AUG. 12: Peach Festival: Vendors, food, live music and more, Palisade.

AUG. 12-14: Hardrockers Holidays: Celebrating the mining heritage, Silverton; silvertoncolorado.com.

AUG. 13: Donkey Derby Days: An event inspired by the town’s resident donkey herd, Cripple Creek; visitcripplecreek.com.

AUG. 20: Pickin’ on the Divide Music Festival: With Colorado bluegrass bands, Monument; townofmonument.org.

AUG. 26-27: Hot Rod Rock & Rumble: Live bands, car show and more, Pikes Peak International Raceway, Fountain; hotrodrock.com.

AUG. 26-28: Hogfest: Bacon and bourbon, Breckenridge; gobreck.com.

AUG. 26-28: Handmade in Colorado Expo: Showcasing fine art and contemporary craft, Estes Park; handmadeincolorado.com.

FIND MORE FESTIVALS ONLINE AT COLORADOSPRINGS.COM

COLORADO

AROUND

COLORADO

RODEOS, FAIRS & FIREWORKS

By Carlotta Olson

RODEOS

JUNE 2-5: Elizabeth Stampede Rodeo, Arena at Casey Jones Park, Elizabeth; elizabethstampede.com.

JUNE 2-AUG. 18: Wild West Rodeo Series, Thursdays, Gus Darien Riding Area, Carbondale; carbondalerodeo.com.

JUNE 9-11: Ute Mountain Round-Up Rodeo, Montezuma County Fairgrounds, Cortez; utemountainroundup.org.

JUNE 18-19: Rodeo Parade and Rodeo, Evergreen; whatsgoinonevergreen.com.

JUNE 22-AUG. 17: Snowmass Rodeo, Wednesdays, Snowmass Rodeo Grounds, Snowmass Village; snowmassrodeo.org.

JUNE 23-26: Round-Up, Alamosa Fairgrounds, Alamosa; alamosaroundup.com.

FAIRS

JULY 9-16: Mesa County Carnival and Fair, Grand Junction; mesacountyfair.com.

JULY 12-17: Park County Fair, Fairplay; fairplayco.us.

JULY 13-17: Custer County Fair, Westcliffe; visitwetmountainvalley.com.

JULY 16-23: El Paso County Fair, Calhan; elpasocountyfair.com.

JULY 23-30: Montrose County Fair, Montrose; montrosecountyfairandrodeo.com.

JULY 23-AUG. 1: Weld County Fair, Greeley; weldcountyfair.com.

JULY 28-31: Arapahoe County Fair, Aurora; arapahoecountyfair.com.

JULY 28-AUG. 7: Logan County Fair, Sterling; lcfair.org.

JULY 29-AUG. 7: Douglas County Fair, Castle Rock; douglascountyfairandrodeo.com.

JULY 29-AUG. 7: Delta County Fair, Hotchkiss; deltacountyfair.com.

FOURTH OF JULY

JULY 2-4

Florence: 4th of July Weekend Celebration: Drive-in movies, live music, parades, fireworks and more; cityofflorence.colorado.gov.

Granby: July 4th Celebration: Pancake breakfast, bike parade, fireworks and more; destinationgranby.com.

JULY 3-4

Creede: Independence Day Celebration: Street festival, vendors, live music, fireworks and more; creede.com.

Lake City: Independence Weekend Celebration: Games, parade, street dance, fireworks and more; lakecity.com.

JULY 4

Arvada: Independence Day Fireworks: 7-10 p.m., fireworks begin at dusk, Stenger Soccer Complex; arvadafestivals.com.

Boulder: Ralphie’s Independence Day Blast: Folsom Field; bouldercoloradousa.com.

Breckenridge: Independence Day Celebration; gobreck.com.

Brighton: 4th of July Concert and Celebration: Carmichael Park; brightonco.gov.

Colorado Springs: 4th of July Symphony on Your Porch, 9-9:35 p.m.; coloradospringssports.org.

JUNE 23-JULY 4: Greeley Stampede, Island Grove Regional Park, Greeley; greeleystampede.org.

JULY 2-4: Red Ryder Roundup Rodeo, Archuleta County Fairgrounds, Pagosa Springs; visitpagosasprings.com.

JULY 2-AUG. 13: High Country Stampede Rodeo: Saturdays, John Work Arena, Fraser; highcountrystampede.com.

JULY 6-11: Rooftop Rodeo, Estes Park; rooftoprodeo.com.

JULY 13-16: Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo, Norris-Penrose Event Center, Colorado Springs; pikespeakorbust.org.

JULY 14-16: Cattlemen’s Days, Gunnison; cattlemensdays.com.

JULY 30-AUG. 7: Elbert County Fair, Kiowa; elbertcountyfair.com.

AUG. 1-7: Garfield County Fair and Rodeo, Rifle; garfieldcountyfair.com.

AUG. 3-7: Adams County Fair, Brighton; adamscountyfair.com.

AUG. 5-9: Larimer County Fair and Rodeo, Loveland; larimercountyfair.org.

AUG. 6-13: Lincoln County Fair and Rodeo, Hugo; lincolncountyfair.info.

AUG. 6-13: San Luis Valley Fair, Monte Vista; slvfair.com.

AUG. 8-13: Moffat County Fair, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com.

AUG. 11-12: Ouray County Fair, Ridgway; ridgwaycolorado.com.

AUG. 11-14: Boulder County Fair, Longmont; bouldercountyfair.org.

AUG. 26-SEPT. 5: Colorado State Fair, Pueblo; coloradostatefair.com.

Cripple Creek: 4th of July Fireworks: 9:30 p.m.; visitcripplecreek.com.

Durango: 4th of July — Salute to America: Pancakes and fireworks; durango.org.

Estes Park: 4th of July Celebration: Car show and fireworks; visitestespark.com.

Fairplay: Independence Celebration: Parade, fireworks and more; fairplayco.us.

Grand Junction: Downtown Fourth of July Parade; visitgrandjunction.com.

La Junta: Old Fashioned Fourth of July: Parade, cannon firings, games and more, Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site; visitlajunta.net.

Loveland: Vendors, kids play zone, food trucks, fireworks and more, North Lake Park; LovGov.org.

Monument: Tri-Lakes 4th of July Celebration: Pancake breakfast, parade, music and more; townofmonument.org.

Pagosa Springs: July 4 Celebration: Parade and fireworks; visitpagosasprings.com.

Silverton: 4th of July Spectacular; silvertoncolorado.com.

Vail: Vail America Days: With drone show across town choreographed to music; vailamericadays.com.

Westcliffe: Fourth of July: Fireworks over Lake DeWeese; visitcustercounty.com.

Woodland Park: Old Fashioned 4th of July Celebration: Memorial Park; woodlandparkchamber.com.

TERROR-DACTYL

So named for the creature one imagines gliding between the ancient, 200foot cliffs at Manitou Springs’ Cave of the Winds. Wait, did pterodactyls fly 100 mph? That’s the billed speed of your chair swinging through the air.

BREATHTAKER ALPINE COASTER

In building more for all seasons, alpine coasters have become common at Colorado ski areas. At Aspen Snowmass, this one aims to live up to the lofty name. It notches speeds up to 28 mph as it zips and zooms for more than a mile.

ROYAL GORGE VIA FERRATA

Via ferratas — Italian for “iron paths” — have been popping up all over Colorado’s vertical landscape. But perhaps none is as iconic as this one, spanning the world-renowned walls of the Royal Gorge, high above the Arkansas River.

CHILLS, THRILLS

By Seth Boster

The whole family can catch a thrill at Colorado’s many tourist attractions. That’s assuming the whole family meets some height and weight requirements. And isn’t prone to queasiness.

Here are some wild diversions to consider:

“TIME TO GET OUT AND GO BACK

ESTES PARK AERIAL TRAMWAY

There aren’t many European-style cable cars like this one still running, in operation since 1955. And there aren’t many views that rival this. You’ll rise 1,100 feet to a classic, postcard view of the scenery shaping Rocky Mountain National Park.

DURANGO ADVENTURES

This is a hub of adrenaline in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. Zip lines running treetop to treetop. Off-roading tours rumbling across bone-rattling terrain. Rafting trips navigating through Animas River rapids. And axe throwing.

TREEHOUSE ADVENTURE PARK

Of all the state’s zip lines and ropes courses, this place west of Denver has set itself apart. In the pine thickets of Bailey, creators have arranged a compound they say “closely resembles an Ewok village, or a Swiss Family Robinson treehouse.”

GET OUT AND EXPLORE MORE.

Once bustling with gold-seekers and the occasional outlaw, Cripple Creek CO is still a place to visit for those looking to strike it rich in its many casinos or discover historical buildings and gold mines, enjoy unique attractions, the beautiful mountain setting and stunning views of the Rocky Mountains, or simply book a room to get away and delight in all that Cripple Creek has to offer. Plan your visit at VisitCrippleCreek.com

IN TIME”

Terror-dactyl. Michael Ciaglo

HISTORIC HOTELS IN COLORADO

By Seth Boster

Strater Hotel, Durango

Since 1887, the Strater has been a sight to behold on the outside with those red walls and white trim and on the inside with equally detailed wallpaper and woodwork. Adding to the allure is Diamond Belle Saloon, a step back in time to the wild west.

The Cliff House at Pikes Peak, Manitou Springs

The hotel was built in 1873, a few years before Colorado became a state. It has maintained its Victorian charm, including the rounded section that is the Katharine Lee Bates Room, fittingly facing the peak that inspired “America The Beautiful.”

The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs

The Cliff House is too easily forgotten in the shadow of this world-famous marvel, envisioned by mining tycoon Spencer Penrose. Opened in 1918, the towering resort includes a spa, championship golf courses and guided excursions into the surrounding wilds.

The Brown Palace Hotel and Spa, Denver

This is the capital city’s grande dame, a historic landmark occupying a corner just a block from the tourist destination of 16th Street Mall. Afternoon tea is a tradition dating to 1892, when the hotel began hosting dignitaries.

The Stanley, Estes Park

Overlooking the town in its white, shimmering glory, the 113-year-old Stanley is known widely as the inspiration for Stephen King’s “The Shining.” Lesser known is the hotel bar’s astounding assortment of whiskey.

Hotel Colorado, Glenwood Springs

After a while in Hotel Colorado, you’ll notice the teddy bears. Then you might learn about the origin story claimed here. Teddy Roosevelt was one president to stay here, near the Colorado River and across from the big hot springs pool.

Hotel Jerome, Aspen

As silver was bringing Aspen to prominence in 1889, Hotel Jerome rose to represent the refined elegance that entrepreneur Jerome Wheeler foresaw of the town. The place would host miners, cowboys, 10th Mountain Division soldiers and local Hunter S. Thompson, who pitched anyone who would listen on his bid for sheriff.

Strater Hotel in Durango. Christian Murdock

WET ’N’ WILD

By Spencer McKee

A whitewater excursion on the Arkansas River

“Remember, if you fall out of the raft, get your feet up and forward as fast as possible. If you don’t, a foot could get lodged between underwater rocks and that’s one way people die.”

Already opting to don a life jacket and helmet as I stood on the banks of the Arkansas River, I tried to keep track of the many whitewater rafting scenarios that seemed to end in likely death, as the river guide pushed through a cautionary speech that he had clearly given many times.

“I’ve never lost anyone on a trip down the river, but I know guides that have. I know guides that have died,” he continued. “This is serious stuff and things can go from good to bad fast.”

I knew the warnings were necessary, though I couldn’t help but notice how each hypothetical situation seemed to tighten the knot forming in my gut. I’d

never been comfortable around water, but being in Colorado, I knew I had to try whitewater rafting at least once. One fact that did provide comfort was knowing everyone on board. I stood confident in their athletic abilities and trusted that someone would have the strength to pull me back in the raft should I fall out.

I was seated in the front of the raft, in

a spot that can be crucial for navigation. As one of two rafters at the bow, those seated behind me would be following my lead as the guide shouted commands and aided with steering from a raised seat in the back.

This proved to be my first misconception — that the guide did most of the work. While the guide does direct and steer, the physicality of the rowing falls on the group. The guide’s commands don’t do much if the group doesn’t follow through.

Soon, we were off, floating down the river at a surprisingly relaxed pace with no rapids in sight. That proved to be my second misconception — that the entire trip is tumultuous. While that might be the case on some rivers, our guided trip on the Arkansas featured brief sections of serious rapids, with lengthy calm sections in between, offering much-need-

Arkansas River west of Cañon City. Parker Seibold

Spencer McKee

ed mental and physical breaks.

As we hit the first section of whitewater, our team navigated through without issue thanks to advice from our guide, who seemed to know the placement of every rock beneath the surface of the water. As we’d pass different features, he’d point them out, including those named after lives the feature had claimed.

As the trip continued, we enjoyed several relaxing sections reminiscent of a lazy river at an amusement park, broken up by sudden, brief moments of turbulence. The water level was high at the time, allowing us to cruise over many features that could have been obstacles on a year with less runoff.

I quickly became more comfortable with the whitewater, proving my third misconception — that I’d be falling out of the raft a lot.

My only prior knowledge of the sport came via discussion with experienced friends. They had talked about wild rapids, often sharing terrifying moments when rafts would flip and a party would end up separated. Throughout our journey, however, I never felt as though I was at risk of falling out of the raft. With a good guide, a dedicated team and the right river conditions, this occurrence seemed to be less likely than most would believe.

While I wouldn’t recommend whitewater rafting for everyone, those who are physically fit and comfortable around water are sure to find the experience thrilling. But keep in mind that this activity can be deadly, often regardless of experience level.

As with any extreme sport, participants should proceed with caution, staying within their abilities and utilizing a guide when their own skills and knowledge are lacking.

By Seth Boster

A LIFE ON THE WATER

Colorado resident has logged 70,000-plus miles on the river

Bill Dvorak, 72, might know more than anyone about rafting Colorado’s rivers.

“I’ve got more than 70,000 river miles,” he reports from his outfitter between Buena Vista and Salida. “I think this is my 38th year on the Arkansas.”

But his life on the water goes far beyond this state.

Dvorak started from his childhood ranch in Wyoming, situated along the banks of Tongue River. His career took him kayaking in New Zealand and canoeing in Australia before making his name on waterways of the West. He counts 11 trips through the Grand Canyon — but that’s not his favorite stretch of water.

Perhaps his proudest moment: seeing his neighborhood Browns Canyon designated a national monument.

We asked him to reflect on the best of his life.

Favorite river: The Dolores (in Colorado’s southwest corner). ... Back when they were finishing the McPhee Dam, it ran every spring right up until probably 1990. Beautiful ponderosas, beautiful sandstone canyon walls. A very significant rapid called Snaggletooth. I say I have a record for the most runs through that rapid in a day: 17.

After that: Middle Fork of the Salmon (in Idaho). Probably the biggest thing is it’s got 10 or 12 hot springs along the way. The Gunnison Gorge (near Montrose). There’s no vehicular access to it so there’s a horsepacker there that we work with. We do it as a three-day fishing trip. It’s called the little Grand Canyon.

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Why the Arkansas: We’ve got 145 miles here of runnable whitewater, everything from Class 5 to Class 2. I drove through here, and this reminded me so much of where I grew up in Wyoming: a river running through with mountains in the front and mountains in the back.

Browns Canyon: It’s one of the only pieces of water around, besides maybe the Royal Gorge, that’s sort of true wilderness.

Local go-to run: My favorite is The Numbers. It’s almost continuous Class 4. You’re paddling the whole time.

Lesser-known: North Platte River, just north of Walden. I think only the first four miles are in Colorado and then it enters Wyoming. It goes through a beautiful stretch of wilderness called Northgate.

3 ICONIC SPOTS FOR RAFTING IN COLORADO

By Seth Boster

Not all whitewater in Colorado is created equal. There is, for one, the whims of Mother Nature — the snowpack and runoff that determine flows and rapids. Then there’s Mother Nature’s artistry, her landscapes that rise to the level of legendary. Add these to your rafting bucket list:

ROYAL GORGE

In the boat, don’t be distracted by the canyon walls scraping the sky. When the Arkansas River runs strong, you’ll be busy paddling through thundering waves, narrow passages and steep drops.

GLENWOOD CANYON

The Interstate 70 drive through this magical realm pales in comparison with the tour via Colorado River. The water rolls about 16 miles through the canyon, including the mighty Shoshone Rapids.

DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT

Spanning Colorado’s northwest border, this preserve has a reputation for a wall of fossils. Adventure seekers know it better for its vast beauty. The Green and Yampa rivers explore the remote wilds.

Bill Dvorak. Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

RITE OF P(ass)AGE

Burro racing a fitting tribute to Colorado’s mining past

It’s not baseball. Not football. Not hockey. Not basketball, cycling, golf or pickleball (though that last one sure is getting popular). It’s not even mountain climbing.

Colorado’s state sport? Burro racing.

The technical term is “state summer heritage sport,” according to legislation from 2012. It is a designation no other state claims. Which speaks to the proud, peculiar tradition here.

Runners dash many miles through the hills with their stubborn donkeys. Governed by the Western Pack Burro Ass-ociation (WPBA), Colorado hosts several contests every summer, attracting dozens of fit, adventurous athletes.

“This is NOT just a foot race,” warns the deeply rooted ass-ociation that lobbied for that 2012 legislation. “Even the fastest racer can be humbled by his running partner — equus asinus.”

The burro at any moment might charge ahead, like a competitor on a

mission. Or, one might just stay put, unmoving and content.

“What we want to do in this sport is show people the true grit of the animal not known for cooperating, and also that human spirit,” Brad Wann, speaking for the WPBA, once told us.

Also: “It’s about keeping history alive,” said Bill Lee, one of the sport’s long-bearded, long-going ambassadors.

It’s about paying tribute to the early explorers and prospectors who relied on pack burros to navigate the mountains as Colorado was coming into being. And it’s about having fun. The races transform historic mining towns into festive environments for weekends.

“We are smile creators,” Wann was pleased to say.

Mark your summer calendar for races around the state, including the sport’s famed Triple Crown. More information can be found online at packburroracing.com/races.

SAVE THE DATES

MAY 28: Georgetown Pack Burro Race

MAY 29: Idaho Springs Pack Burro Race

JUNE 11: Creede Donkey Dash

JULY 16: Greenland Open Space Pack Burro Races, near Larkspur

JULY 31: Burro Days in Fairplay

AUG. 7: Leadville Boom Days

AUG. 14: Gold Rush Days in Buena Vista

SEPT. 10: Victor Burro Racing Gold Rush Challenge

Burro racing in Cripple Creek. Mark Reis

Don't miss the 75th Annual Buffalo Days presented by sagebrush bbq & grill August 19th, 20th, and 21st.

Fireworks - Parade - Buffalo BBQ Lakefront Music Festival - 5K - outdoor movie night and So Much More!

Horses roam through thousands of acres in herd managements areas

WILD AND FREE

By Seth Boster

As a child in upstate New York in the 1950s, Marty Felix relished Sunday drives through the country with her dad. “Take us by some horses,” went her request.

“I was a horse-loving girl,” she says. And so she remained, all the way through college graduation in 1969, when she moved to Colorado upon learning the horses ran wild here. She moved to Grand Junction, drawn to what is now Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Area.

Felix recalls one fateful Jeep drive up the rugged roads through folding canyons. “It took me from 1969 to 1973 to find them,” she says. “We saw a band of seven. Then we screamed so loud they ran off.”

That can be one response to the sight around the state’s four herd management areas, as listed by the Bureau of Land Management.

“It really impacts” people, says Cindy Day, speaking of those who visit Piceance-East Douglas Area outside of Meeker. “It makes them think of the Wild West. It’s the romanticism. It’s the wild horse.”

Felix and Day are volunteers representing “friends” groups that have partnered with the BLM at Colorado’s herd management areas. The others are at Sand Wash Basin beyond Craig and Spring Creek Basin in the state’s southwest corner — like Little Book Cliffs and Piceance-East Douglas, sprawling swaths of public land to behold the nostalgic scene.

The impact of the horses is hard for Cindy Wright to pinpoint. She represents Wild Horse Warriors for Sand Wash Basin.

“Everything from tears to screams of joy to very subtle, serene kind of ... I don’t know how to explain it,” Wright says. “It really just grabs your heart. It does something to our souls.”

That’s for those bold and savvy enough to venture potentially long hours to see the horses. Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicles are recommended across all herd management areas, with some also requiring navigation skills and an awareness of rains that make roads quickly impassable.

“It is not for everyone,” Wright says.

She drives visitors in a Jeep across those 225 square miles of northwest Colorado, the high mountain desert that rises to

Sand Wash Basin. Cindy Wright

Lookout Mountain. Ideally the tours get there, for a view that’s “like a mini Grand Canyon,” Wright says. And, ideally, horses are spotted.

Day considers Piceance to be relatively accessible compared with the state’s other herd management areas. Chances of seeing the horses are good too, she says.

At Little Book Cliffs in the summer, the horses aren’t as readily seen off the exit from Interstate 70.

Many from the herd of about 170 venture to higher ground in the hot months, Felix says.

With the right vehicle and preparedness, she recommends plotting a course to the Indian Park and North Soda areas from DeBaque/Winter Park Road. The areas are “heaven on earth,” Felix says.

It’s country she has toured for the better part of 50 years. These days, her miles and hours in the backcountry aren’t as long.

“Now I’m 74,” Felix says. “But I have an Xterra with big, 10-ply tires. I’m not throwing in the towel yet.”

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7 6

7 PLACES FOR HORSES IN COLORADO

By Ellie Herring

Green pasture, the wind in your hair and a lovable animal companion — there is just something about horseback riding that relaxes the mind and soothes the soul. These seven places are sure to inspire:

ACADEMY RIDING STABLES, COLORADO SPRINGS

As if Garden of the Gods isn’t reason enough to leave your house, add another element of adventure by taking a ride through the red rocks.

STABLE ON THE WHITE RIVER, MEEKER

Experience the matchless beauty of the Rockies on a trail ride through Sombrero Ranch in northwest Colorado. Rent a horse or opt for a guided tour.

RIMROCK ADVENTURES, FRUITA:

Explore the federally protected Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Area with your very own wrangler. Be sure to book a sunset tour; the views are unparalleled at dusk.

LOST VALLEY RANCH, SEDALIA

This is a true dude ranch experience. Rides are offered in the mornings and evenings, accompanied by a wrangler that guides you through Pike National Forest.

RUSTY SPURR RANCH, KREMMLING

Try your hand at cattle driving as guests take part in moving the herd. The experience requires upward of four hours riding rugged terrain without a break.

4UR RANCH, CREEDE

The horseback riding might take a back seat to the grub at this ranch. Options include an outdoor chuckwagon breakfast, a late afternoon steak ride and a fish fry picnic.

ZAPATA RANCH, MOSCA

Choose between a morning horseback ride among a herd of 2,000 bison or a memorable trek into Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve, a neighbor of the ranch.

UNTAMED BEAUTY

By Seth Boster

Pristine nature found in wilderness areas

Lost Creek Wilderness

Colorado’s highest peaks draw plenty of attention and plenty of crowds, while down below some of the state’s most pristine, unspoiled nature affords true, splendid solitude. While big-mountain climbers track their rewards by miles and elevation, the rewards for wilderness goers are immeasurable — except, perhaps, by days on the trail.

Here’s a look at some of the state’s designated areas:

This mosaic of curious rocks, plateaus and mixed forests sprawls across 120,000 acres only 50 miles from Colorado Springs and Denver. Take it from Gerry Roach, often called the grandfather of the fourteeners for his preeminent guide: “This special place is gentle to the mind and soul,” he wrote in his book on Lost Creek. A typical launch point is Goose Creek trailhead.

Mount Evans Wilderness

This is an ideal getaway for Denverites, who reach it by the famous road leading to the 14,000-foot centerpiece. There’s a good chance they spot their first wildlife on the drive up: the bighorn sheep known to roam this land. From the parking lot near Echo Lake, a popular introduction is the journey to Chicago Lakes, done in a hard day or overnight.

Eagles

Nest Wilderness

To dodge the crowds of Colorado’s central mountains, one must embark deeper. Enter Eagles Nest, treasured for its easy access yet seemingly limitless possibilities, a wonderland of lakes and meadows guarded by the imposing Gore Range. In Frisco, the North Tenmile Creek trailhead is off Interstate 70. Another portal is at the end of Heeney Road near Silverthorne.

Maroon

Bells-Snowmass Wilderness

Management has changed here in recent years, a result of this dreamscape captivating Coloradans and visitors from afar. It seems Four Pass Loop will be the next hot spot subject to advanced permits. Don’t expect to be alone on that marvelous, multi-day tour, but do expect to be blown away by the Elk Mountains and waves of wildflowers.

Flat

Tops Wilderness

An iconic representative of the wilderness is Trappers Lake. It is regarded as the birthplace for the 1964 Wilderness Act, the place where Arthur Carhart was inspired to write a memo regarding areas “where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Framed by the tabletop summits, Trappers Lake glistens in a remote pocket of the northwest high country.

Weminuche Wilderness

At 500,000 acres, this is the state’s largest wilderness area. It’s a magical realm home to the headwaters of the Rio Grande and San Juan rivers, a showcase of southwest Colorado’s austere beauty. The jagged aesthetics include Mount. Eolus and Sunlight and Windom peaks, all of which can be reached from Chicago Basin, a popular, hike-to base camp.

4 NATURAL GEMS IN COLORADO’S WILDERNESS AREAS

By Leslie James

Colorado is home to more than 40 federally protected wilderness areas, an abundant amount of natural space that’s been left relatively untouched. Here are five spots that stand out inside those areas:

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LONE EAGLE PEAK, INDIAN PEAKS WILDERNESS

The classic view of this photogenic mountain comes only after a roughly 8-mile, one-way hike from Monarch Lake trailhead. For the most experienced adventurers, a trek to the summit requires Class 4 climbing.

DEVIL’S CAUSEWAY, FLAT TOPS WILDERNESS

This narrow strip of land — measuring only 3 feet wide in spots — between major sections of the Flat Tops boasts 60- to 80-foot drop-offs on either side of the trail. One very steep slope drops 800 feet below.

WHEELER GEOLOGIC AREA, LA GARITA WILDERNESS

Colorado’s first designated national monument remains a true gem, featuring rare beauty in the form of remarkable geologic formations consisting of coarse volcanic tuff that eroded into many shapes.

CONUNDRUM HOT SPRINGS, MAROON BELLS-SNOWMASS WILDERNESS

This natural, one-of-a-kind hot spring pool is found 11,200 feet above sea level and is reachable only via a 9-mile, one-way hike. A permit is required for overnight stays at the site.

Note: Many regulations and restrictions exist in Colorado’s wilderness areas. Be sure to prepare for less developed and more remote conditions than found at national and state parks.

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SUMMER SPOTLIGHT FORT COLLINS

By Seth Boster

If you’ve been enraptured by the college town just northwest of Denver — Boulder, home of the University of Colorado — the rival asks you please to turn your attention farther north.

Fort Collins doesn’t have those iconic Flatirons. But it has plenty more to gain your admiration. That includes some natural wonders of its own, including recognizable promontories and the Cache la Poudre River that flows through town. Adventurous locals know how to work up an appetite all right — and they know how to refuel on some of the best eats and drinks the whole Front Range has to offer.

And at the end of the day, they like to think of their home as having a small-town feel, a down-to-earth feel that isn’t quite felt on Boulder’s extravagant Pearl Street. It’s a feeling defined by the humble, local heritage. It’s only fitting that agricultural studies are a specialty of Colorado State University.

Other specialties around town? All for you to discover:

Cache la Poudre River. Katie Klann

Choose your adventure

One of those recognizable promontories is Horsetooth Mountain, a go-to destination for hikers and bikers. Another is Arthur’s Rock, the centerpiece of Lory State Park, with plenty more trails to explore.

The top of Arthur’s Rock overlooks Horsetooth Reservoir. The 7-mile-long oasis has room for jet skiers, kayakers, paddleboarders and anglers. Rafting and tubing on the river is similarly popular; stretches through Poudre Canyon pump the adrenaline.

The college town also markets itself as a gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park.

Hop for suds

Fort Collins is hailed as the craft beer capital of Colorado. That’s for the sheer numbers: more than two dozen breweries have been counted in recent years. One study ranked the town third in the nation for most breweries per capita.

New Belgium and Odell are the grandfathers of the scene. The two offer tours of their sweeping facilities — and, yes, free sips along the way.

But the fun is in finding the smaller shops. A fairly new one is Purpose Brewing & Cellars, an exotic tour of tastes hiding in a strip mall. It’s a passion project of Peter Bouckaert, the industry legend who brought New Belgium to prominence. Jessup Farm pairs brews with farm-to-table fare.

Hunt for deals

Historic Old Town is a shopper’s paradise. You’re sure to find treasures around every corner.

Maybe it’s your next wardrobe addition, or the next addition to your spice drawer. Maybe it’s your next antique, or your next art piece. Maybe it’s the jewelry you’ve been seeking, or the outdoor gear you’ve been missing. It’s boutiques and galleries galore around Old Town, which also has no shortage of restaurants.

Silver Grill Cafe is the breakfast staple. Find cheese, charcuterie and chocolate at Welsh Rabbit Bistro. Social is the underground hangout at night, with an array of cocktails and hors d’oeuvres.

HISTORIC BARS IN COLORADO

By Seth Boster

Buckhorn Exchange, Denver

A history that dates to 1893 does not make this Colorado’s oldest bar, as is often mistaken. But the Buckhorn does own the oldest liquor license. If only walls could talk. That’s the thought when surveying the collection of 100-plus guns.

Buffalo Rose, Golden

When the joint reopened in 2019, it was a celebration of 160 years. There have been several starts and stops since 1859, when Colorado’s oldest bar opened in a building that hosted the likes of Ulysses S. Grant and William Tecumseh Sherman. But the Buffalo Rose has refused to fade.

The Minturn Saloon, Minturn

The walls are covered with photos and autographs of the major clientele since the 1970s: skiers. They warm up with the time-honored dish of duck breast, just as the railroaders did in the early 1900s. The saloon is the terminus of the Minturn Mile, one of the best-known, out-of-bounds runs from Vail.

Mint, Silverthorne

Recently, condos and a hotel and one of those fancy food courts have been under construction around an old building that looks out of place. For more than 150 years, the Mint has survived the changes. Blue River Parkway is its fourth location, following miraculous transplants from other posts around Summit County. It’s now a grill-your-own steakhouse.

Silver Dollar Saloon, Leadville

From behind the mahogany bar that was freighted via covered wagon in the 1870s, from behind that copper register still in use, the friendly local might show you the spot on the floor cracked in a way to resemble the face of “Doc” Holliday. He was a regular, known to have lived across the street. There’s another spot marked on the floor, said to be where the fights went down. Listen for the ghosts as you enjoy your wings.

The 150-year-old Mint building in Silverthorne. Christian Murdock

Tips for eating, drinking and playing in Chaffee County

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

By Seth Boster

“Now THIS is Colorado,” reads the highway sign welcoming visitors to Chaffee County. And it’s easy to see why.

With the Arkansas River connecting the idyllic, artsy towns of Buena Vista and Salida, this is a mecca for whitewater rafting and fishing. With an impressive cluster of 14,000-foot peaks, it’s a land that calls also to high-altitude climbers. Off-roaders get their thrills on rough and rowdy tracks such as the one on Mount Antero, while other sightseers follow the winding pavement of Cottonwood Pass over the Continental Divide.

Did we mention mountain biking? And hiking and camping?

“If you want to be alone in the woods, this might not be for you,” longtime Buena Vista resident Laura Hart says.

But if you want adventure and don’t mind a crowd, look no further than Chaffee County. Here are helpful tips from locals:

P.T. WOOD — former Salida mayor, owner of Wood’s High Mountain Distillery

• Starting out: I love the crack-of-dawn tour up on (Monarch) Pass. Get up there and watch the sunrise with a baked good from Little Red Hen (1) .

• Best stretch of water: The Numbers is probably my favorite in the whole world. Just super solid Class 4, beautiful whitewater for kayaking. And then the more casual day run is Browns Canyon (2). Low stress, high fun, and it’s really pretty in there as well.

• For mountain biking: Go up the Salida Mountain Trails (3). Just head up Frontside Trail (from downtown). There’s a kiosk with a map there. You can choose your adventure. Unkle Nazty is a pretty challenging, full-suspension type of descent. Or you can head out and wrap around to Cottonwood Trail, which is a longer loop I love.

• For lunch: Amicas (4) is one of my favorites: amazing salads, wood-fired pizzas.

• For later: If you’re looking for fancier, the Fritz (5). Benson’s for more of a bar hangout. High Side for live music.

• What else: There’s a number of spots up Chalk Creek, past Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort (6), that are either overnight rental cabins or vacation rentals that will have private hot springs with them. Cabins at Chalk Creek is one that comes to mind.

Chaffee County is known for its rugged roads. Parker Seibold

LAURA HART mother, community organizer in Buena Vista

• Wild time with wildlife: Go up the road to St. Elmo (7). They’ve got so many chipmunks all over. They’re well-known for the chipmunk feeding. That’s something you have to do.

• Perfect afternoon: There’s a little restaurant at River Runners, which is a rafting company. Right on the sand, they do live music, and it’s like hanging out at the beach.

• On the water: People love to rent paddleboards (8) from CKS on Main Street and take them over to the lake. There’s some really cool eddies right there on the river at the end of Main Street that people like to bring kayaks and paddleboards to. It’s even fun just to watch.

• A great tradition: Farmers market every Sunday during the summer at McPhelemy Park.

• For ice cream: K’s (9) is the nostalgic thing to do, but my favorite is Louie’s on Main Street (10)

• What else: My family is avid off-roaders, and I love to pack the kids and get on the trails. You definitely want to make sure you know what you’re doing and are prepared. There’s a lot of people that come and think they can do a trail. They’re called mountains for a reason.

(1) The bakery is home to family recipes that have passed through generations. Bagels, pastries, pies and more.

(2) A go-to for several outfits and memorable trip for beginner rafters.

(3) Find detailed maps and more information at salidamountaintrails.org.

(4) Also with an impressive menu of craft brews.

(5) Small plates inspired by cuisines of the world.

(6) Soaking in pools and along the scenic creek. Adult day passes $30-$35, two days soaking for hotel overnight.

(7) Easy to reach from Mount Princeton Hot Springs. Continue west on County Road 162 for 12 miles.

(8) Nearby options include the pond at McPhelemy Park near downtown Buena Vista and Cottonwood Lake, less than 30 minutes away.

(9) Roadside classic serving dairy delights and burgers.

(10) Hart’s favorite is a whiskey ice cream.

(11) Taps for 40 beers, wines and ciders.

(12) Vodka+strawberry basil lemonade, wine+orange liquer+fruit, rum+pineapple+coconut+orange juice+vanilla — just a few options.

(13) Educational toys and games, children’s books, arts and crafts, unique jewelry and more.

• Ideal day: I would go rent a yurt at Joyful Journey (Hot Springs Spa in Moffat). Then I would come back into town and have a really delicious dinner at Little Cambodia. Then I would go hear music at (pour-your-own) 146 Taphouse (11), and I would have 12 different sips of beers.

• Fun hangout: Velveteen Lounge (12). It’s like you’re in 1920s Paris. You get all these designer cocktails, wine or beer, and they have all these cool events.

• Mark your calendar: The month of July will be the Salida Goes Surreal Festival. All through July there will be surrealism art shows at the SteamPlant and alleyway art installations throughout town.

• Shopping: Definitely The Beekeeper’s Honey Boutique. We’re full of consignment shops here. Free the Monkey, Ruby Blues, those are very interesting. Another place that families must stop by is Kaleidoscope Toy Shop (13)

• What else: Everybody who comes to Salida must stop by Box of Bubbles. Ken Brandon, he’s a native. It’s an art and community workshop space that he also lives in. It’s called Box of Bubbles because he wanted a place for people to come and talk about their ideas without their bubbles getting burst.

JENNIFER DEMPSEY — Salida Circus founder

BLAST FROM THE PAST

By Seth Boster

MORRISON • Throughout 2020, the 72-year-old woman in charge of Tiny Town would come by the place she always knew as “happy and magical.” It was “a wonderful, miniature world,” Elvira Nedoma wrote in her book chronicling the roadside attraction’s 100 years.

Nedoma started “If These Tracks Could Talk” like this: “Somewhere over the rainbow, preserved fondly in one’s memory, is a place where time stands still and you can be a child forever.”

Amid the stark reality of a global pandemic, it was hard to maintain the illusion.

But she’d still visit these knee-high buildings ranging from historical to whimsical, from replicas of Colorado’s old mining cities to villages of gnomes, dinosaurs and birds. In previous summers, about 75,000 people young and old had come to ride a kid-sized train around Tiny Town’s 100-plus kid-sized structures.

But as COVID-19 spread, Nedoma kept the gates closed. And so all was quiet. No choo choo from the train. No laughter. No kids.

Now, though, after a year closed, after fears of the nonprofit folding, after generations of visitors reminisced on a GoFundMe page and raised nearly $34,000 to keep Tiny Town in working order, the magic has returned.

From the bustle of U.S 285 running west of Denver, Tiny Town seekers curl off a side road and drop into a page

of Huckleberry Finn. A creek winds through an idyllic valley tucked between evergreen hills.

This is where George Turner made his summer home in 1915. He owned a moving and storage company in the city. “The world moves, so does Turner,” went the slogan.

The world moved cruelly. Turner’s little girl, Blanche, was sick and dying.

“Unfortunately there wasn’t a way for him to extend her life,” Nedoma writes in her history book, “but he knew how to make her happy. He built her a town of playhouses.”

After her death, he continued to expand the elfish empire. Turnerville, he called it. He piped music into mini churches, planted flowers and trees, added swan ponds. Turnerville became a major attraction.

Maybe it was the entrepreneur in him that kept him going. Or maybe it was the sadness, Nedoma thinks. Maybe Turnerville was a reminder of happier days.

But “people don’t need to be constantly reminded of things,” Nedoma says.

Turner sold the amusement park in 1927. It became Tiny Town under the

next boss, who would be one of several over the decades.

The land swapped hands as it saw world wars, fires, floods, economic downturns and a highway realignment that also hampered business. Tiny Town would close and fall into disrepair, only to be revived by people with dreams of profit or something else.

But the small place came with big costs and burdens. The little buildings always needed a fine painter’s touch while the bigger buildings with bathrooms and snacks always needed maintenance. As did the train, of course. Among other bills, insurance became a larger drain in later years.

And yet someone always came along.

In the 1980s, a group presented the idea for the current nonprofit and tradition of volunteers.

Then, in 2000, along came Nedoma, who lived up the road.

“I used to drive by and nobody was painting the houses,” she says. “I got a little ticked.”

She got to work. Painting and painting, “never satisfied unless it looked just right.” It was hard work but happy work, a good distraction. At the time, she was losing her boyfriend to Alzheimer’s.

She had always imagined she’d have kids by that point in her life. Grandkids, too. The world had other plans.

“I know the Lord brought me here for a reason,” she says. “I love children. It’s all about the children here.”

Tiny Town continues century-old tradition with unique attraction

Tiny Town. Katie Klann

SPLASH OF COLOR

SCENIC TRAINS • GHOST TOWNS • SPIDER SHOW PAGES 46-51

FALL

GOLDEN HAUNTS

By Lance Benzel

For a chance to strike it rich in gold and silver, Colorado’s early prospectors grew fixed on taming its wildest canyons, where they carved rail corridors into mountains and constructed stage roads that lured eager new arrivals pursuing “Pikes Peak or bust.”

But not every vein led to riches, and many new arrivals went “bust.”

When claims went dry, mining camps and entire towns were abandoned, left to weather in the unforgiving elements of the Rocky Mountains on their inevitable return to wilderness.

For today’s explorers, Colorado’s ghost towns are places of mystery that add elements of history and adventure to any hike, drive or backpacking trip.

LULU CITY, Rocky Mountain National Park

Founded in 1879 on rumors of rich veins of silver, Lulu City enjoyed four years of high times with a population that peaked at 200.

It soon became clear, however, that the low-grade silver ore retrieved by the miners wouldn’t offset the expense of transporting it, and the town was abandoned, leaving orderly rows of cabins.

Today all that remains are foundations, a few logs and a plaque in a lonely, scenic canyon within Rocky Mountain National Park.

To get there: From Grand Lake, drive north on U.S. 34 about 2 miles to the national park entrance station. From there, drive another 9.5 miles to the Colorado River trailhead and park on the west side of the road. The hike to Lulu City is about 7.5 miles round trip.

Ghost towns offer wealth of history, loads of fall colors

CRYSTAL, near Marble

By the mid-1880s, the mining community of Crystal boasted a population of 400, with two newspapers, two hotels, saloons, a barber shop and the men-only Crystal Club, a booming backwoods refuge fueled by seven working silver mines, according to “Ghost Towns of the Mountain West” by Philip Varney.

The 1893 silver crash nearly emptied the town, and by 1915 only 15 residents remained.

A dozen cabins are the only signs of those days, including the Crystal Club, a log building with lumber facade.

To get there: Crystal is 5.9 miles east of Marble on Forest Road 314. A fourwheel-drive vehicle is required. Consider hiking or biking instead.

Crystal Mill near Marble. Christian Murdock

CARSON, near Lake City

Silver outpaced gold 100 to 1 when this mining town was in its heyday, supporting 150 separate claims until the silver market cratered in 1893. By 1902, the Gunnison Times reported, “Carson with its many promising properties is practically abandoned.” Today, Carson is a haunting site in a place of rare beauty, with seven historic buildings.

To get there: From Lake City, head southeast on Colorado 149 for 2.3 miles. Take County Road 30 for 9 miles to Wager Bulch Road (County Road 36), which heads south. The 3.6-mile stretch to Carson requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

GHOST TOWN HOLLOW, Pikes Peak

Situated in a shadow-filled gulch beneath Pikes Peak, this litter-strewn former mining camp will give visitors a new appreciation for the hardships endured by its residents.

The tumbledown log shelters are covered in snow until midsummer.

The cliffs a few hundred yards up the trail hide the miners’ former worksite: Oil Creek Tunnel, a now-blocked miners’ access reaching some 1,600 feet inside Pikes Peak, the legacy of a fruitless attempt to extract gold.

To get there: Ghost Town Hollow can be reached in a variety of ways, but the shortest route involves a shuttle up Pikes Peak Highway to the Elk Park Trail cutoff, followed by a roughly 5-mile round-trip hike. From Elk Park, hikers descend a couple of miles before reaching a sign directing them onto the path to this ghostly site.

LEAVE NO TRACE

BY KRISTA KARLSON

Tread lightly in the outdoors by adopting these common-sense principles.

1. Plan ahead and prepare

Plan your route in advance, and bring a map to avoid wandering off the trail. Eliminate food waste by arranging your meals ahead of time.

2. Travel, camp on durable surfaces

Walk and camp on hard ground to avoid damaging sensitive surfaces. In heavily trafficked areas, use established trails and campsites to minimize impact. In remote areas, avoid camping in places that are impacted.

3. Dispose of waste properly

Pack out food waste to reduce disruptions to ecosystems. For human waste, dig a 6-inch cathole and fill after you’ve done your business.

4. Leave what you find

In some areas, it’s illegal to remove objects such as rocks. Leave everything the way you found it, and never make permanent alterations to trails or campsites.

5. Minimize campfire impacts

Only build fires in designated pits using dead and previously downed wood. Also, always obey fire bans.

6. Respect wildlife

Camp at least 200 feet from water sources to allow wildlife to access these areas. Keep food to yourself, and keep your distance to mitigate interactions.

7. Be considerate of other visitors

Give uphill hikers the right of way, and be aware of how your actions might affect others on the trail. Respect quiet hours in campsites and shelters.

ST. ELMO, near Buena Vista

Undoubtedly the state’s best preserved ghost town, St. Elmo sits at 10,000 feet in the Collegiate Peaks.

The main street looks much like it must have in the 1880s, when the town was a thriving mining hub with 2,000 residents. Two restored buildings, Pawnee Mill’s livery stable and its blacksmith shop, are among 40 antique structures that remain.

To get there: From Buena Vista, drive south on U.S. 285 for 8.5 miles to Nathrop. A quarter-mile south of Nathrop, find County Road 162 and take it west for 15.4 miles to St. Elmo. During the fall, the dirt road is suitable for most passenger vehicles.

ASHCROFT, near Aspen

History fanatics are sure to love this ghost town scene known for its backdrop of gold in the fall. Dating to the 1880s, the former silver mining town includes the restored remains of several historic buildings, including a saloon, post office and the Bird House Hotel. Admission is $5 with touring options available.

To get there: From Twin Lakes, drive west on Colorado 82 over Independence Pass and through Aspen to a traffic circle on the west edge of town. Exit onto Castle Creek Road and drive south 11 miles to Ashcroft. This drive is suitable for passenger vehicles.

Spencer McKee contributed to this story

F )ALL ABOARD!

THE BROADMOOR MANITOU AND PIKES PEAK COG RAILWAY

(adult fares $60, cograilway.com)

If you haven’t taken a ride on the new-and-improved cars to the newand-improved visitor center at 14,115 feet, fall is a marvelous time to do it. The old growth aspen swaths across the mountain’s broad shoulders are a sight to behold.

CRIPPLE CREEK & VICTOR NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD

(adult fares $17, cripplecreekrailroad.com)

Celebrating one of Colorado’s storied gold bases, the locomotive departs a vintage depot and explores history scattered across the Pikes Peak foothills. Enjoy narration about Echo Valley along the winding way, as well as views of the distant Sangre de Cristos.

LEADVILLE, COLORADO & SOUTHERN RAILROAD

(adult fares $50, leadville-train.com)

The train takes off from the famous mining epicenter and rises 1,000 feet to more colorful realms of wildflower meadows and aspen groves. While zigzagging toward the Continental Divide, you’ll hear tales of Leadville’s heyday.

GEORGETOWN LOOP RAILROAD

(adult fares $32, georgetownlooprr.com)

The route is iconic for the bridges standing hundreds of feet above the valley floor — engineering marvels when built and still thrilling to traverse a century later. While relatively short, the steam engine grants stunning grandeur in a steep, narrow canyon.

CUMBRES & TOLTEC SCENIC RAILROAD

(adult fares $150, cumbrestoltec.com)

By Seth Boster

Several of Colorado’s railroads live on from their frontier births. Where many once connected commerce, now they stir nostalgic imaginations on scenic tours. That’s especially the case in the fall, when aspen-washed hillsides turn gold. Here’s a look at options to consider come September, when displays are brightest:

This line is a proud throwback, a coal-fired steamer churning on as it has since the 1880s. It travels more than 60 miles from Antonito to Chama, N.M., through underappreciated terrain on Colorado’s southern edge, through vibrant forests and then over a stunning mountain pass above 10,000 feet.

DURANGO & SILVERTON NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD

(adult fares $100, durangotrain.com)

Enjoy a remarkable journey through the heart of the San Juans, arguably Colorado’s most spectacular countryside. Ambitious backpackers know the lift as necessary to reach treasured trailheads while sightseers are plenty satisfied staying on board all the way to Silverton, with bold scenery of its own.

Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, which runs between Antonito and Chama, N.M. Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

AROUND COLORADO

FALL FESTIVALS 20

By Carlotta Olson

SEPT. 2-4: Four Corners Motorcycle Rally: Bikes, music, stunt shows and more, Durango; durango.org.

SEPT. 2-4: Four Corners Folk Festival, Pagosa Springs; folkwest.com.

SEPT. 3-5: Labor Day Lift Off Balloon Festival, Memorial Park, Colorado Springs; coloradospringslabordayliftoff.com

SEPT. 3-5: Denver Chalk Art Festival: More than 200 professional and amateur artists with streets as their canvas, Denver; denver.org.

SEPT. 3-5: Gathering at the Great Divide Art Festival: More than 100 artists, Breckenridge; mountainartfestivals.com.

SEPT. 5-OCT. 18: Oktoberfest Train: Royal Gorge Route Railroad, Cañon City; royalgorgeroute.com.

SEPT. 9-11: Oktoberfest: Keg bowling, stein lifting, bratwurst eating contest and more, Lionshead, Vail; oktoberfestvail.com.

SEPT. 10-11: Fiber Arts Festival: Vendors, make-and-take activities, beer garden and more, Salida; salidachamber.org.

SEPT. 15-17: Wine Classic: Food and wines from vineyards around the world, Breckenridge; gobreck.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Telluride Blues and Brews Festival: Beer, music and more, Telluride; tellurideblues.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Balloon Festival, Snowmass Village; gosnowmass.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Fall Fest: Local food, live music and more, Pearl Street Mall, Boulder; boulderdowntown.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Oktoberfest: Keg bowling, stein lifting, bratwurst eating contest and more, Vail Village, Vail; oktoberfestvail.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Strings, Beers and Ciders: Bluegrass, food and more, Breckenridge; gobreck.com.

SEPT. 16-18: Cruisin’ the Canyon Fall Color Truck, Motorcycle and Car Show, Creede; creede.com.

SEPT. 17-18: Fall Festival and Chili Cookoff, Ute Pass Cultural Center, Woodland Park; woodlandparkchamber.com.

SEPT. 23-25: Chile & Frijoles Festival: Vendors with chili merchandise and other Pueblo items available, Pueblo; festival.pueblochamber.org.

SEPT. 23-25: 14er Fest: Trial festival for motorized and non-motorized trail users, Buena Vista; 14erfest.org.

SEPT. 24-25: Pikes Peak Regional Air Show, Colorado Springs; pprairshow.org.

OCT. 14-16: Horror Show: Colorado’s first and longest-running horror film festival, Telluride; telluridehorrorshow.com.

FIND

FANTASTIC

By Seth Boster

Just as it is a place of majestic landscapes, so Colorado is a place of majestic residents. Here’s a closer look at four iconic animals:

Elk

Weighing upward of 900 pounds and unmistakable for their six-point antlers, this is Colorado’s most imposing native deer. They are otherwise called wapiti, ranging fertile meadows and alpine tundra.

Their most famous home in this state is Rocky Mountain National Park. Regulars have grown familiar with “elk jams” while ascending Trail Ridge Road. A chorus of bulls bugling is heard in early fall, signaling the mating season when people travel in droves to Estes Park. While that’s the most popular time for viewing, elk are out and about year-round.

Bighorn sheep

There are two types in the state. In 1979, desert bighorn were reintroduced to Colorado National Monument, where they are still seen, distinct for their long legs and sand-colored coat that blends with the desert. Front Range residents are more familiar with the native Rocky Mountain bighorn. Close to Denver, Waterton Canyon is a good, accessible bet for viewing. Bighorn sheep also frequent the cliffs of Big Thompson Canyon en route to Estes Park. They are common on the drives up Mount Evans and Pikes Peak

Moose

Rocky Mountain National Park has increasingly been a popular viewing place for these beasts too. They have been more so spotted from the park’s west side near Grand Lake.

But State Forest State Park outside Walden remains Colorado’s “moose capital.” The largest state-protected preserve is situated in the northwest territory, where moose were delivered four decades ago. Check out the state park’s visitor center for an updated board listing specific areas where moose have been spotted in recent days.

Mountain goats

They sure seem like natives, always appearing content and in constant smile above treeline. But mountain goats were ferried to Colorado to expand hunting, first in 1947 in the Collegiate Peaks. They have greatly expanded their range since.

Anyone bagging 14,000-foot-peaks is likely to be acquainted with these shaggy guys. They like high, rugged terrain, which means one typically earns the sighting. If not on the Mount Evans Scenic Byway, Quandary Peak and Mount Bierstadt are among “beginner” fourteeners.

By Seth Boster

‘GENTLE GIANTS’

The misunderstood tarantulas of southern Colorado

LA JUNTA

• We have been driving for hours on roads to nowhere, nothing but flat land and sky all around, when finally I glimpse those hairy, spindly legs.

“There!” I shout, causing photographer Christian Murdock to slam the brakes and lurch to the side of the road.

We had to be quick. That tarantula was getting away.

Alas, it was gone, lost somewhere in the thickets of Comanche National Grassland. And so our search continued.

If you’ve seen headlines about “thousands of tarantulas” or “waves of tarantulas” marching across southeast Colorado every fall — CNN and USA Today have covered the annual phenomenon in recent years — you might have the wrong idea. On the contrary, you might see one or two or three at a time crawl across this prairie. Or, you might see none.

The tarantulas are not exactly coming and going. They live around here. They’ve always lived around here, since and likely long before the Dust Bowl banished farmers and led to the 1960 establishment of the national grassland — prairie to be left undisturbed.

“You generally won’t find (tarantulas) where people have plowed,” says Whitney Cranshaw, who spent 37 years teaching entomology at Colorado State University. “They have permanent burrows, and they live for a long time. So it has to be an area that hasn’t been destroyed. It has to be relatively intact, native prairie.”

The tarantulas roam across Comanche’s 443,000-plus acres not so much migrating, but rather looking for love. They are lonely bachelors, likely around age 8, near the end of their lives. That’s when males are believed to go looking for females, who might live 15 years longer, content in their dens.

So it is all males we see crossing the road, brave males testing their luck first against traffic. They test again at a burrow,

typically at sundown. How many more nights they have to stand is uncertain; they’re known to perish soon after mating.

And yet here we are to greet them along their promiscuous ways. Why?

“I think a lot of it is just that scary factor,” offered Sue Keefer, a local wildlife photographer. “I guess it’s kind of like horror movies. You don’t really wanna watch, but you do.”

Keefer knows La Junta’s most fascinating residents to be exactly that — fascinating, not horrific. No, they won’t jump in your car, as she’s heard visitors suggest. No, they don’t travel in packs or herds, as she’s heard others say.

Keefer knows tarantulas to be misunderstood. As does Cranshaw.

“Gentle giants,” he calls them.

Sure, they bite, but it feels like a paper cut, Cranshaw says. Sure, they are venomous, but the professor says they pose no serious threat to the human body. Though, when they shag hair in defense, Cranshaw says it can feel like poison ivy.

As far as the tarantula attention, “Heck, I’m all for it if it gets more people out exploring that part of the state,” Cranshaw says. “I mean, everybody goes to the mountains!”

Driving south on Colorado 109, when we finally trained our gaze up from the road, we noticed the landscape transform. High bluffs rose from previously flat earth. Elsewhere, we came by the ruins of a ranch where Charles Carson lived, son of legendary frontiersman Kit Carson.

I thought about something Keefer said: “You never know what you’re gonna find out here.”

We found tarantulas eventually. They crossed the road one after another. It was right at dusk, their preferred hour.

Satisfied and with daylight to spare, we drove on for whatever else lay ahead.

A tarantula outside La Junta. Christian Murdock