Foodism - 23 - The International Issue by Twenty Two Media Group

T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E

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Chicken Parmesan

A classic Italian dish that speaks for itself – add a fresh salad and you’ve got yourself a meal.

Ingredients

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) garlic powder ½ tsp (2 mL) each salt and pepper 2 eggs 1 cup (250 mL) panko bread crumbs 2 tsp (10 mL) each dried thyme, oregano and rosemary

ntario Warkworth, O

Servings: 2 to 4 Prep Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 40 minutes

½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan cheese, divided 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts (about 500 g) ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil, divided 2 cups (500 mL) marinara sauce 4 slices fresh mozzarella cheese (¼-inch/5 mm thick) Fresh basil leaves for garnish

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). In a shallow dish, stir together flour, garlic powder, salt and pepper. In a separate shallow dish, whisk together eggs. In third shallow dish, stir together bread crumbs, thyme, oregano, rosemary and ¼ cup (60 mL) of the Parmesan cheese. Place chicken breasts on cutting board. Holding knife parallel to work surface and starting at curved side, cut in half lengthwise, almost but not all the way through; open like a book. Working with 1 chicken breast at a time, coat in flour mixture, followed by dipping into eggs, then coating in bread crumb mixture; pressing to coat. In medium skillet, heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) of vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Cook 1 chicken breast, for 3 minutes on each side until breading is golden brown, adjusting heat as necessary. Repeat with remaining oil and chicken breast. Transfer chicken breasts into a 13- x 9-inch (33 x 23 cm) greased baking dish. Generously spoon marinara sauce over chicken and into the dish. Top with sliced mozzarella and remaining Parmesan cheese. Bake 30 minutes or until cheese has melted and is a light golden colour. Garnish with basil and serve with a side salad or vegetable of choice. Tip: If chicken fillets/tenders are attached, remove before butterflying breasts. If you like, coat and prepare along with the breasts. Nutrients per serving: (¼ recipe): 620 calories, 35 g total fat, 890 mg sodium, 25 g carbohydrates, 2 g fibre, 3 g sugars, 46 g protein. Excellent source of riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, pantothenate and selenium. Good source of vitamin E, vitamin K, calcium and iron.

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EDITORIAL PUBLISHER

Krista Faist ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Katie Bridges

STAFF WRITER

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A WORD

FROM THE TEAM

Photography: Tyler Bowditch Art Direction: Emily Black, Amy Ward

Meredith Hardie

EDITORIAL INTERN

Eunice Lee

COPY EDITOR

Lydia Winter CONTRIBUTORS

Caroline Aksich Mai Nguyen

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ook, we get it. Publishing the International Issue of foodism at a time when travelling up the 401 to Kingston, Ontario might seem a little risqué isn’t without its irony. And yet, six months into a life-altering global pandemic, don’t we need to pick up a fork and travel around the world more than ever? Of course, we knew it all along. That first sip of an Aperol Spritz, transporting you back to a piazza in Florence; the street feast in Taiwan that sent your taste buds into overdrive and made you see tofu in a whole new light; or the way we just can’t look at a Yorkshire pudding without tearing up thinking about ol’ Blighty. Food takes us places, and it’s uplifting us in our hour of need. In our latest global gambit, photographer Barb Simkova takes us on a tour of Prague in the Czech Republic where tourists and locals alike gorge on smoked meat, cheese and Slavic delicacies in town squares all over the country (pg. 58). The foodism team shows you how to whip up cosmopolitan cuisine (pg. 24) with a roundup of the best specialty kitchen equipment – or if that sounds like too much work, our guide to the best international snacks gives you a bite-sized primer on multinational nibbling (pg. 46). Back in Toronto, Katie Bridges provides an update on the ever-changing restaurant landscape and chats with the business owners and restaurants who’ve pivoted during the pandemic (pg. 52). Meanwhile, Taylor Newlands unpacks why French food is considered the pinnacle of fine dining while Caribbean and Chinese food is largely relegated to takeout boxes (pg. 64). Plus Caroline Aksich shows us why mead – an ancient drink made by fermenting honey – is the next big thing (pg. 74). Our late summer plans might not be global, but let us show you how to take a very large bite (and swig) of everything this multicultural city has to offer. f

T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E

GRAZE 014

THE RADAR

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THE DIGEST

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FLAVOUR OF THE WEEK

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WHAT’S IN STORE

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TIPPING THE SCALES

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WEAPONS OF CHOICE

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BACK TO BASICS

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RECIPES

043 DINNER GUEST: CHRISTINA VEIRA

FEAST 048

INTERNATIONAL SNACKS

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PIVOTING POST-COVID

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PRAGUE PHOTO SERIES

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THE FINE DINING DILEMMA

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Made possible with the support of Ontario Media Development Corporation. omdc.on.ca

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© Twenty Two Media Group 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Foodism Toronto cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Foodism Toronto a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Foodism Toronto nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Foodism Toronto endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.

ONTARIO’S MEAD MAKERS

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THE NEXT ROUND

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BOOZERS AND SHAKERS

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COCKTAIL HOUR

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BOTTLE SERVICE

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COCKTAIL DECONSTRUCT

The Foodism Team

foodismto

THE FOODIST

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EXCESS 106

INSIDER: CENTRAL OREGON

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STAYCATION: BISHA HOTEL

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DAY TRIPPER: ELORA

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FOODISM’S FINEST

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THE SELECTOR

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DECONSTRUCT

— PART 1 —

GRAZE “TRY PLAYING HIP HOP WITH ONLY BLACK AND BROWN BARTENDERS AND SEE HOW CUTE IT IS.” CHRISTINA VEIRA, 043

GLOBAL GOURMET

Take your taste buds on a world tour with a trio of internationally inspired cookbooks from Penguin Random House Canada. You'll never look back.

1. VIET NAM E SE F OOD ANY DAY

THE FOODIST

Taylor Newlands on going from fussy to full-blown foodie in a city packed with international flavours.

seeing things in black and white my whole life, and finally had a dose of colour injected in. There were ingredients I thought I hated until I ate them prepared in a different way. I never liked eggplant until I tried Hanmoto’s nasu dengaku, and I didn’t know I loved peas until I had split-pea soup at United Bakers. Nowadays, I try to push myself out of my culinary comfort zone as much as possible. I go to a wide variety of different restaurants (including the ones where the staff don’t speak much English) and I let servers and bartenders choose what to bring me. I’ve ended up trying things that I didn’t like, but I’ve tried way more that were amazing. The diversity we have in this city is a gift. Between all of the boroughs and neighbourhoods in Toronto, we can travel the world through the different food and cultural experiences that are available to us. You don’t have to throw everything you’ve ever known out the window, but once every few times that you go out, try something completely new to you. I promise your taste buds will thank you. f

2. AL OHA K ITC HE N Hawaiian sand and sea might be off the list this year, but not for your tastebuds. Aloha Kitchen: Recipes from Hawai'i introduces 85 recipes that pay homage to the island's Asian and Western influences. Maui native Alana Kysar dives deep into refreshing recipes like loco moco burgers, shoyu ahi poke and shave ice – and their connection to the island’s multi-ethnic history.

3. DIAL A’S K ITC H EN Inspired by her travels to places like Barcelona, Santo Domingo and Mexico City, Diala Canelo created a cookbook to capture fresh, global flavours. Cutting your meat intake doesn’t have to mean salads – Diala’s Kitchen features 100 plant-forward and pescatarianfriendly recipes such as salmon tacos with chipotle crema, wild mushrooms over polenta, and coconut flan dessert.

Photography: Anna Shepulova; Aubrie Pick; Alana Kysar and Brooklyn Dombroski; Diala Canelo

S SOMEONE WHO could have their life instantly cut short by eating the wrong legume, I grew up always being overly cautious around food. And it only took one bout of anaphylactic shock to turn that trepidation into full-on fear. It wasn’t until my mid-20s that I ventured outside the realm of chicken tenders with fries and spaghetti and meatballs. I like to think I'm a strong independent woman, so I hate to admit it – but for me, it was a dating experience that opened the door to this city’s incredible – and incredibly diverse – food. I went out with a Toronto chef who brought me to restaurants I didn’t even know existed and then proceeded to order the most (to my mind) out-there items on the menu. I swallowed down my fear, literally, and tucked into foods I had never seen before. (We all try to be agreeable on the first few dates, okay?) My little world was rocked. I discovered a breadth of delicious dishes and flavours I'd been missing out on. It was as if I had been

Andrea Nguyen transports us to Ho Chi Minh City with Vietnamese Food Any Day. Taking her mom’s traditional recipes from Vietnam to America, the San Francisco chef shares simplified classics from banh mi and chile garlic chicken wings to sizzling rice crêpes and no-churn Vietnamese coffee ice cream.

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FOODISMTO

THE RADAR Scoff delicious food and support new businesses at the same time? Oh, go on then. MAYA BAY From the people behind Southern Thai restaurant Koh Lipe and beloved Toronto curry and noodle group Eat BKK comes Maya Bay. Perched at the corner of Carlton and Parliament, this Thai snack bar is serving more than just small plates. You’ll find Tom Yum fried wings and shrimp chips alongside heartier dishes like green curry with rice and scrambled egg. For a tropical escape, opt for the whole pineapple smoothie – it’s served inside (you guessed it) a whole pineapple. mayabay.ca

T HE SM O K E STOP

POM PET T E Being “pompette” means to be in a state of bliss, and that’s exactly how you’ll feel tucking into Martine Bauer’s authentic French fare. The chef brings classic training and a storied career (including a stint at Hôtel de Matignon, the official residence of the French Prime Minister) to the quaint restaurant on College. The bar offers twists on classic cocktails while the list of wines by the bottle stretches on for days. pompette.ca

CAF É N’ONE

G IANNA’S PAT T IE S AND PIE S Thelma and Louise; Shaggy and Scooby; Batman and Robin: some of the best things come in twos, and Gianna’s specializes in perhaps one of the most iconic duos out there: Detroit-style pan pizza and burgers. Taking over the former Tennessee Tavern in Parkdale, this is a place where pizzas are thick and burgers are stacked.The smashed fried mozza on the frico cheese burger brings a particularly satisfying crunch. @giannastoronto

@thesmokestopbbq

DZ O V I ET E AT E RY Dzo Viet Eatery aims to show Torontonians that Vietnamese cuisine goes way beyond pho – though the soup does make an appearance. Make a reservation for the petite patio and tuck into dishes like banh mi sliders, Saigon grilled wings or caramelized pork belly, slow cooked in individual clay pots and topped with pickled cabbage. dzovieteatery.com

CASA M E Z CA L Casa Mezcal dishes out North Mexicanstyle sushi. But what does that mean exactly? For starters, there’s no raw fish (gasp!) in these delicious rolls. However, there is more rice, Mexican ingredients like carne asada and more avocado than you can shake a chopstick at. Don’t miss the ceviche or the cactus enchiladas. casamezcal.ca

Photography: (Gianna’s ) Simon Colyer; (Pompette) Sandy Nicholson

For those in the north east regions of the GTA, this Markham eatery specializes in Japanese-Italian fare. You’ll find creative takes on familiar dishes like the wafu carbonara – spaghetti with thick-cut smoked bacon, onsen egg, ponzu and nori seasoning. We’re sold already. Elsewhere, karaage (Japanese fried chicken) and waffles, Japanese soufflé pancakes and the classic sausage and eggs breakfast – turbocharged with seared pork belly – make up the brunch offerings. cafenone.com

Just as every restaurant in the city was shuttering, this Mediterranean barbecue food truck bravely opened for business. It pivoted from its usual curbside service to deliver smoked meat pitas, ribs and chicken wings straight to your door – or you can book them to park on your street for a local cookout.

HIGH SOCIETY Take dining to new heights – 351 metres to be precise – with Canadian cuisine paired with unparalleled views of Toronto. Executive chef John Morris has created an organically grown, locally sourced and sustainably harvested menu at 360 that’ll make you feel like you’re on top of the world. To see the menu and make your reservation, head to cntower.ca/360

FEAST ON

THE DIGEST

As the city creeps towards the new normal, here’s everything you need to know in the world of food. PAT IOS, PL E ASE When we said we would do anything for a few more patio spots, this wasn’t quite what we meant. However, if there’s one upside to a global pandemic (there’s not), it’s CaféTO, a quick-start program that’s made it easier for restaurants to open patios. Eateries are swiftly creating socially distant outdoor dining spaces with curb lane closures and expansion blitzes planned to make way for more.

SA N I T I Z ED, SEALE D, DE LIVE RE D, IT’S YOU RS When we pictured the future, we definitely expected more robots – but we’re finally getting closer. Fans of Lebanese food can now grab takeout with total peace of mind thanks to Paramount Fine Foods, who launched Box’d, Canada’s first fully automated restaurant at Yonge and King. After a few taps at the in-store digital kiosk, guests will be rewarded with salads, oven-baked wraps and tasty smoothies, all delivered sealed and sanitized in individual cubbies. boxdbyparamount.com

H E SAI D, SHE SAID Ah, Toronto. Just when we’re on to something good, landlords hike up the rent and push out the little guys. Or do they? (Puts on monocle). No sooner had Aunty Lucy’s Burgers claimed its rent was raised by 10 times the original agreement, their landlord clapped back that he had offered the space as a rent-free, temporary pop-up. But now you can grab their smash burgers at the Annex Hotel. @auntylucysburgers

T HE SHOWS W IL L G O O N As the pandemic world keeps spinning, so too do the innovations. INK Entertainment (who brought us Akira Back, Rebel, Cabana and more) announced their newest project; CityView Drive-In, a contactless way to experience music and entertainment, live from your car (with snacks available to purchase from food trucks on-site). Those itching for large-scale summer events can park up in front of the 238-foot stage and see bands like A Tribe Called Red with the Toronto skyline in the background. cityviewdrivein.com

100 CALORIES

CARBS R

ED W

REAL TA N G E R I N E PEEL

FLAVOUR OF THE WEEK

New delivery restaurant SweetChops marries virtue and vice, finds Eunice Lee.

LYING IN THE face of Toronto’s lockdown is SweetChops, a new delivery-only Americana joint dishing up plant-based cuisine in the form of healthy bowls and hearty sandwiches. The concept comes from Adam Gilbert but the mastermind behind the menu is Dustin Gallagher, who decided to cook vegan eats for a change of pace. The former executive chef at 416 Snack Bar and a Top Chef Canada Allstars finalist, Gallagher honed his craft with experience at Susur and the now-closed restaurants Grace and Acadia. He designed SweetChops’ menu to make plant-based eating accessible (and tasty) for everyone. The menu features entrees like the

SW EETC HOPS: L I F T ING T HE L ID

Shibuya Bowl, named after the Tokyo neighbourhood. The dish is packed with savoury flavours: soft and creamy miso eggplant, roasted until blistering; saucy teriyaki tofu; sesame shiitake mushrooms; and edamame laid atop a bed of steamy sushi rice. Adorned with pickled ginger and a soymiso dressing, the bowl is so umami it takes our taste buds straight to Japan. As for the sandwiches, don’t miss the Jerkfruit Sammie, where roasted jackfruit and a fresh slaw come swaddled in a fluffy ciabatta bun. Crispy thick garlic fries are a welcome addition, or you can opt for a side salad. No matter your diet, this is a place where you can enjoy a nutrient-packed meal without missing the meat. eatsweetchops.com

MIGHTY NOT MEATY For flexitarians and meat-eaters alike, SweetChops manages to nail juicy and hearty dishes without using meat thanks to a mushroom and lentil base. Try it in the Big Chops Burger, layered with a house-made mushroom-lentil patty, thick guacamole and crunchy shoestring potatoes stacked on a fresh bun; or in the Meatball Sub, sandwiching mushroom and lentil meatballs with tangy tomato sauce, stretchy dairyfree mozz, arugula and sunflower pesto.

SWITCHING IT UP SPECIAL DELIVERY The pandemic halted plans for SweetChops to open its doors, turning it into a delivery-only spot in Little Portugal. If you’re tired of cooking the same dishes after a long day of work, it’s available to order for dinner through Uber Eats, Skip the Dishes, Doordash or Ritual.

After working as an executive in the restaurant chain industry, SweetChops founder Adam Gilbert had a total change of heart when he went vegan. Inspired by his new lifestyle, his vision was to start his own plant-based chain restaurant. The cuisine: modern American food with classic meatball subs, sandwiches and salads – all veganized, all irresistibly delicious. From what we’ve seen, Gilbert’s managing to tick all the boxes. f

EAST ASIAN EATS

The snack down

WHAT’S IN STORE

Meredith Hardie takes a trip to Tokyo via Queen Street West at Japanese emporium Sanko Trading Co.

Japanese. My favourite item is the unique Japanese soy sauce we carry. Soy sauce is kind of like wine in Japan – some of them are aged for quite some time, like two years. You can definitely tell the difference when they’re properly aged and produced,” says Mizuno. The emphasis on quality and detail is noticeable from the moment you enter. You’re immediately welcomed by friendly staff who are constantly restocking and cleaning the aisles decorated with my memories of Japan, from the stunning Kintsugi plateware at the front of the store to the neatly stacked boxes of Pocky sticks. “My parents were born in Japan and immigrated here in 1966. My father started Sanko in 1968 and we’ve been open since then,” Mizuno continues. “We moved from Spadina to Queen 30 years ago. My father is 81 and still comes into work [Mizuno credits the miso soup.] I can’t stop him, even with COVID-19. That’s how passionate he is.” Guess I have to start drinking more miso soup. f 730 Queen St. West; toronto-sanko.com

Let’s get saucy There’s an entire wall dedicated to Japanese soy sauce, or shoyu. Each one has its own unique brew, fermentation time and taste. Use it as a quick flavour-boosting condiment or as a cooking sauce to add richness and umami to your dish. The paper-wrapped bottles make an excellent gift.

You brewtiful thing A ritual, a necessity, a comfort: tea is so many things and a sacred part of Japanese culture. At Sanko, tea takes pride of place at the front of the store: cast iron teapots and intricate ceramic tea sets greet you when you enter, and down the aisle, packs of finely ground matcha wait patiently to be brewed.

Photography: Meredith Hardie

'VE PROBABLY THOUGHT about the food in Japan every day since my trip there four years ago – specifically the snacks. If only my suitcase had been big enough to carry 300 flavours of Kit Kats, multiple bags of Kaki-pi (salty rice crisps) and a crêpe vending machine (“Anything to declare, ma’am?” “Me? Not a thing”). Thankfully, Sanko Trading Co. is just a short walk from my Toronto home. If you’ve ever strolled along Queen Street West, you’ve probably noticed this colourful mural-clad building at the corner of Claremont Street. Inside its bright walls the shop is a cornucopia of Japanese goods, kitchen supplies and, of course, snacks. “We have a variety of imported items from Japan. Some are high-quality ingredients like matcha, while others are daily staple items like misos, nori and rice vinegars,” Steve Mizuno tells me. He’s been working at Sanko his whole life – his father, William, is the owner. “Sanko means ‘high mountain’ in

From a fridge full of freshly packed onigiri to sweet and fluffy roll cakes, Sanko has all your cravings covered. The packs of crunchy nori maki arare (rice crackers wrapped in seaweed) are unsurprisingly addictive, just like all the other salty snacks served in proper Japanese izakayas.

{Discover our own BACKYARD} Scenic wonders, rich heritage, warm hospitality...all part of what makes our country such an intriguing place to visit. Explore our picturesque isles and craggy shores in the east, dazzling mountain lakes and snow-capped peaks in the Rockies in the west. Discover the rugged Yukon Territory or immerse yourself in the French ambiance of walled Québec and the Gaspé Peninsula…walk through remote fishing villages and admire the intricate totem poles carved by First Nations people—all right in our backyard.

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TIPPING THE SCALES

From budget-friendly Tex Mex tacos made with love to an all-out extravagant seafood feast, we take Toronto’s best meal kits out for a tasty test drive. H OT MESS

TAL A ($)

OO-K INZ A F ISH HO U S E

F IE STA K AM AYAN K IT ($75)

($$$)

What’s the deal

Opening a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic is no small feat, but Tala had delivery and takeout as their main focus from the get-go. Their kamayan (meaning “with hands” – and you’re going to need ‘em) kit is a deliciously smart way of bringing people together over food even when, you know, we can’t really get together.

What you get

T EX M EX TAC O K IT ($32) What’s the deal

Tex Mex has a bad rap, but kitschy College Street joint Hotmess pays homage to the seriously good Tex Mex joints on the border of, erm, Texas and Mexico. Their taco kit is a play on the nostalgic taco-in-a-box sets from slumber parties and Taco Tuesdays gone by, except this one is really, really good.

What you get

Don’t be fooled by this no-fuss kit – a lot of love and effort goes into building each one. From freshly made cheese-dusted taco shells to housemade chile con queso, this isn’t your average Old El Paso box. There are six taco shells included along with all the fixings, like house-pickled jalapenos, avocado crema and your choice of meat.

What else

There are other versions besides ground beef, like the chorizo with roasted pineapple and Monterey Jack cheese, chicken with mango and goat cheese, and the “cheeseburger taco” with dill pickles and Southwest sauce. We’ll have one for every night of the week. hotmesstexmex.com

This communal Filipino feast can feed four hungry people and there’d still be leftovers. Inside the box you’ll find a variety of seafood, chicken inasal, pork BBQ skewers and pork belly liempo with rice served on banana leaves. The finale: a choice of either leche flan or turon (fried banana spring roll) for dessert. Stretchy pants not included.

What else

The kits sell out fast, so pre-ordering for pick-up is your best bet. You can also add hard-to-find Filipino treats and snacks to your order from Tala’s sister store Sorry Sorry. talatoronto.com

($$)

OM AK ASE BASK ET ($320) What’s the deal

This tiny under-the-radar Scarborough seafood bar has some pretty extravagant omakase (short for “omakase shimasu,” a Japanese phrase meaning “I’ll leave it up to you”) baskets. Well, if it was up to us, we’d have these baskets every damn day. The sets come with two trays; one raw, one cooked.

What you get

At $320, a pre-order booking (along with a $200 cash deposit) is needed for these seafood feasts. Uni gunkan sushi, otoro sashimi, lobster sashimi, abalones and other high-grade sashimi will be present on the raw tray, while the cooked tray has snow crab legs, yakitori skewers, lobster claws, scallops or mussels.

What else

This place is also a market for premium seafood, where you can purchase their specialty, uni (sea urchin) by the tray. One taste of uni from the basket, and you’ll want more of this delicacy delivered from B.C.’s ocean. @ookinza_fish_house f

North 42 Degrees Estate Winery | Essex

Your Perfect Escape

Road Trip to Windsor Essex We bet you didn’t know Windsor Essex has 18 wineries, is the home of Canadian whisky and Canada’s best pizza, and will create unforgettable dining experiences you’ll want to tell everyone about. Discover more at visitwindsoressex.com/staycation. Just a 3.5 hour road trip from Toronto.

WEAPONS OF CHOICE Gussy up your counter top with these internationally inspired bits of kitchen kit. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAILEE MANDEL STYLING BY BRIANNE COLLINS

ADD A L IT T L E PIZ Z A(Z Z) EMILE HENRY PIZZA STONE 3-PIECE GIFT SET

Perfect the homemade slice with this chic pizza stone that can be used in the oven or on the grill. The stylish beechwood pizza peel and wheel, which gets things sliced safely, is just the cherry (tomato) on top.

$149.99, thebay.com

WHAT'S ALL THE RACLET TE? SALTON PARTY GRILL/RACLETTE

Be the host with the most with this ooey, gooey apparatus named after the Swiss cheese. Make grown-up lunchables by grilling meat, veggies and fish up top while the cheese bubbles below. Equipped with spatulas; self-control not included.

$99.99, homedepot.ca

WOK T HIS WAY PADERNO CLASSIC NON-STICK CAST IRON WOK

Whether you’re stir-frying, steaming or making a sauce, this is a wok worth exploring. The cast iron’s smart coating and dimpled surface means that food won’t stick – and you won’t need to use an entire bottle of oil with dinner.

$169.99, canadiantire.ca

HOLY C R Ê PE STAUB CAST IRON CRÊPE PAN WITH SPREADER & SPATULA

Take your tastebuds on a tour of Paris’s cobbled streets with this set made for whipping up Breton-style crêpes. The wooden spreader keeps crêpes as flat as the proverbial pancake, while its spatula spouse makes things more sacré bleu than merde.

$200, williams-sonoma.ca

BACK TO BASICS Steak can be a showstopper – but it can be a flop, too. We grill Damien Cochez, head butcher at Ossington favourite Côte de Boeuf, for his best steak secrets.

N ITS SIMPLEST form, a steak is just a big old hunk of beef, but there’s so much more to it than that. Not all steaks are created equal. There’s an entire world of variables that make all the difference between that chewy piece of leather you ate at a pub and the juicy, melt-in-your-mouth meat you drool over at a top-tier steakhouse. We talk to Damien Cochez, the main butcher at Ossington’s butcher shop and bistro Côte de Boeuf, to find out what makes one steak a cut above the rest.

translates to “Japanese beef” so it can be used to refer to any of the four Japanese cattle breeds. The high-end, sought-after Wagyu is known for its superior marbling and for being incredibly tender. Kobe is a designation only given to Wagyu from one region and that’s raised in a particular way, to produce what is widely considered the best beef in the world. If you’re after a steak that didn’t cross an ocean before it landed on your plate, the common breeds found in Ontario are Highland, Hereford, Angus and Charolais.

What are the breeds of beef cattle?

How do we choose a cut of steak?

Wagyu seems to be on everyone’s tongues lately, though it’s a little trickier to get the pricey meat into your mouth. The word

Steak comes in all different shapes and sizes, depending on which part of the animal it’s cut from. Finding the one that’s right for you

is more of a choose-your-own-adventure than something you can do right or wrong. A tenderloin filet mignon might be the most tender steak you’ll find (it’s right in the name), but as a leaner piece of meat, it won’t have as much flavour. Meanwhile a bone-in steak may have more flavour but it’s more tedious to carve and enjoy. If you’re having trouble deciding, just ask your server or your butcher. At Côte de Boeuf, they’ll guide you through the different cuts of steak and help you choose the right one for your budget, and the way you want to prepare and serve it.

What is marbling? “This is just layers of fat in between the meat. The more marbling, the more kind of

buttery, foie gras taste you’re going to find. The striploin and the ribeye, they’re the ones with the most marbling,” says Cochez.

Why are some steaks dry aged? “By aging, you’re going to tenderize the meat and it’s going to concentrate in flavour. You don’t need to age more than 25 days, this is good enough. The meat is going to be tender already and all the flavour is going to be there. If you have really lean meat, I wouldn’t consider aging every time. The fat helps the meat to get better because the meat is going to be fed out of it. What happens is that all that flavour in the fat is going to go into the meat while it’s dry aging.”

need any more seasoning.”

Tips for cooking the perfect steak? “People shouldn’t rush into it. Buy a nice steak, take it out from the fridge and don’t rush it into the pan. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes in a nice medium-cold area in your kitchen. Make sure it gets to room temperature – otherwise the meat is going to freak out.

Then make sure the pan is really hot, add some olive oil, always season it nicely. Don’t be scared to over-season if it’s a thicker steak, because most of the seasoning is going to go into the pan. If you cook on cast-iron, finish with a really nice nub of butter. Bring some garlic, thyme, rosemary, anything you want into the pan and baste it. Then you take the meat out and put all the juice onto the steak and you leave it rest. If I cook my steak for eight minutes, I’m going to let it rest for 12. It’s a lot of love cooking steak.” f cotedeboeuf.ca

What should a steak be cooked on? “Cast-iron pans have the beautiful property of heating evenly. If it’s pretty hot in the middle, it’s going to be really hot on the side too. But make sure you don’t burn yourself because the handle always gets pretty hot. I wouldn’t recommend cooking really lean meat on the barbecue. You want that fat to drip into the barbecue and make some really nice flames. It’s going to give that smoky flavour to whatever you’re cooking. If going for the grill, make sure that the grill is really hot. You always want to go for really hot at first to lock everything in, and then you can let it rest or cook it slowly.”

How do you season a steak? “Always use a really nice salt and freshly cracked pepper. This is the most important thing. I like to make a crust for the steak with salt and pepper so when I cut into my meat, it’s going be really nice and juicy and I won’t

W HERE TO G ET IT

Photography: Hlphoto; Nika Savoyar

K ASA MOTO 115 Yorkville Ave. Even if you don’t want to spring for their seven-ounce Wagyu skirt steak, Kasa Moto offers plenty of different vehicles for shovelling the coveted beef into your mouth. Wagyu finds its way into steamed buns and gyoza, and is even served as sushi and sashimi at this upscale Japanese spot. kasamoto.ca

HY’S ST E AK HOUSE & CO CKTAIL BAR

J AC OB S & C O. ST E AK HOUSE

365 Bay St.

12 Brant St.

It may have an updated new location at Bay and Richmond, but Hy’s Steakhouse is still about as old school as they come. If you’re after a white tablecloth atmosphere that makes you want to luxuriate over steak and whisky, look no further. hyssteakhouse.com

For a sleek, modern experience that still plays up the classic steakhouse vibes, Jacobs is an AAA option. The expertly curated steak list runs the gamut from Herefords raised close to home to Wagyu straight from Tajima-Shimane Prefecture, Japan. jacobssteakhouse.com

DISCOVER

RUM BARRELAGED MERLOT. NEW at the LCBO!

Recipes

MY, MY, THIS AMERICAN PIE

Toni Tipton-Martin's recipe-meets-history book uncovers the stories behind classic African-American dishes, giving the original cooks the recognition they deserve.

FOODISMTO

IVE INTO THE pages of any cookbook and you're bound to learn a thing or two about the culture to which it owes its recipes. But in this fascinating cookbook from Toni Tipton-Martin â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a scholar of AfricanAmerican culinary history and a James Beard Award winner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you can expect to fill up as much on the rich history of Black cooks as you will on delicious and memorable dishes. Bringing together 30 years of collecting rare African-American texts (resulting in a library of almost 400 Black-written cookbooks), the historian showcases more than 100 recipes, ranging from classics like biscuits, seafood gumbo and buttermilk fried chicken to lesserknown (but no less delicious) plates like West African groundnut stew and okra salad. Jubilee, which acts as a sequel to The Jemima Code, Tipton-Martin's 2015

cookbook, continues on its quest to give Black cooks the recognition they were stripped of for centuries. A recipe for crawfish bisque not only instructs us how to make the creamy French soup, it also provides the history of the Creole staple and its publication in New Orleans Recipes in 1932. Beyond the chapter introductions and indepth African-American culinary history that comes with every plate, Jubilee is a stunningly photographed cookbook with inspiration for meals big and small. Flip the pages for a showstopping salad, a classic lemon meringue pie recipe and more. Perhaps even tougher than picking your first recipe will be choosing whether to display this delicious work in your kitchen or on your coffee table. f Want more recipes from Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking: A Cookbook by Toni Tipton-Martin? Head to

Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking: A Cookbook by Toni TiptonMartin ($35 hardcover, Penguin Random House Canada).

penguinrandomhouse.ca

Toni Tipton-Martin’s

BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

Deliciously light and irresistible, these classic biscuits are easy to make and even easier to eat. Serve with a cup of tea, sit back and watch them disappear... ING R E DIE NTS ◆ 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus

more for the work surface

◆ 1 Tbsp baking powder ◆ ½ tsp baking soda ◆ ½ tsp salt

◆ ¼ cup shortening, cut into

pieces and chilled

◆ ¾ to 1 cup buttermilk ◆ Melted salted butter

(optional) ◆ Honey butter, jam, or

molasses and butter, for serving

Method

1 Preheat the oven to 450 F. 2 In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Sprinkle the shortening over the dry ingredients. Using your fingertips, a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Using a fork, blend in enough buttermilk to make a slightly sticky dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out

onto a lightly floured surface. 3 It’s time to knead the dough. Keep two things in mind: you should add as little extra flour to the kneading board as possible, just enough to let you handle the dough. And the less you handle the dough, the better. 4 To knead properly, use only the heel of your hand to push the dough away from you so that the heat from your hands doesn't warm up the dough. Then, working quickly, pick up

the dough, sprinkle the board with a little flour and return the dough to the board. Fold the dough in half and push it away from you again. Repeat this technique several times for biscuits that are light and airy. Ruth Gaskins recommends kneading the dough just 6 to 8 times; Edna Lewis prefers 8 to 10. Knead just until the dough comes together and is smooth. Do not overwork, which makes it tough. 5 Roll or pat the dough to a ½-inch thickness. Cut with a floured 2-inch round biscuit cutter, pressing down firmly and pulling the cutter straight out of the dough. Do not twist. Cut biscuits close together, leaving no space between. (After rolling and cutting my biscuits, I gather the leftover dough on the board and lightly pinch together the scraps into a scraggly sshaped biscuit that I reserve for myself rather than re-rolling and cutting the dough.) 6 Place the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake until puffed and golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through baking time for even baking. 7 Brush with melted butter after baking, if desired. Serve immediately with honey butter, jam or just molasses and butter. f

Toni Tipton-Martin’s

WILTED MIXED GREENS WITH BACON

This is no ordinary salad: the addition of crumbled blue cheese and crispy bacon makes for a filling, satisfying plate that can pass for both main meal or side dish. Method

1 In a large salad bowl, toss together the greens, radishes, onion, eggs and tomatoes. 2 In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 7 minutes. Leaving the rendered bacon fat in the skillet, remove the bacon to drain on paper towels and crumble when cool enough to handle.

3 Heat the bacon fat in the skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Swirl the pan over the heat for 1 to 2 minutes to concentrate the flavours and slightly thicken the dressing. Pour the hot dressing over the greens and toss quickly to coat. Sprinkle the greens with the crumbled bacon and blue cheese (if using). f

ING R E DIE NTS ◆ 2 lbs mixed tender greens

(spinach, arugula, chard, baby kale, watercress) ◆ 4 radishes, thinly sliced ◆ ½ cup thinly sliced red onion ◆ 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced ◆ 1 cup grape tomatoes, cut into halves ◆ 8 slices bacon ◆ ⅔ cup apple cider vinegar ◆ 1 Tbsp sugar ◆ 2 tsp salt ◆ ¼ tsp black pepper ◆ ⅓ cup crumbled blue cheese (optional)

Photography: Jerrelle Guy

Toni Tipton-Martin’s

BUTTERMILKFRIED CHICKEN There's a reason buttermilk chicken is so popular: it's friggin' delicious. Here's how to make it at home. "

ONCE WROTE THAT an informal review of the most influential Southern cookbooks in my collection revealed as many ways to fix fried chicken as there are cooks making the iconic dish, with innovations appearing in all time periods. A lemonade bath before frying moistens the chicken legs served by chef Chris Scott, a finalist on Bravo’s Top Chef. Mojo criollo infuses Cuban chicken with garlic, orange and lemon juice. Evaporated milk gives Creole chicken a New Orleans flair. I learned from a far-reaching 1987 culinary opus, The Black Gourmet Cookbook: A Unique Collection of Easy-to-Prepare, Appetizing Black American, Creole, Caribbean, and African Cuisine, that birds soaked overnight in a marinade of soy sauce, lime juice and rum will transport you to the islands. There are salt water brines, pickle brines, vodka brines – chef Todd Richards’s buttermilk brine leans into the hot chicken style, adding a dose of hot pepper sauce and red pepper flakes to the mix in Soul: A Chef’s Culinary Evolution in 150 Recipes. While all of these methods can produce wonderful chicken, through it all, marinating in buttermilk remains a classic go-to technique for succulent chicken; the acidic cultured milk tenderizes the meat. For the blazing taste of Prince’s Hot Chicken, add a couple of tablespoons of hot pepper sauce to the buttermilk marinade and increase the cayenne pepper exponentially, depending upon your heat tolerance."

Method

1 In a small bowl, combine the salt, celery salt, black pepper, cayenne, paprika, garlic powder and onion powder. Pat the chicken dry so that the spices will stick, then place the chicken in a long, shallow glass baking dish. Rub half of the seasoning mixture onto the chicken pieces, turning to coat all sides. Pour

the buttermilk over the chicken. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 4 hours (overnight if possible), turning once or twice. 2 In a plastic or lunch-size brown paper bag, combine the flour and remaining seasoning mixture. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk, shake off each piece to remove any excess, and place 1 piece at a time in the bag. Close the bag and shake well to coat evenly on all sides. Let the coated chicken rest on a wire rack while you repeat until all the chicken is coated with the seasoned flour. (Discard the buttermilk when you're done.) 3 Pour about ¾ inch oil into a heavy, deep cast-iron skillet and heat to 375 F over medium-high heat. (Use a thermometer, or if a small cube of bread sizzles immediately but does not burn when dropped into the pan, the oil is ready.) Adjust the heat to maintain this temperature as needed. 4 Working in batches of a few pieces at a time – do not crowd the skillet – add the chicken and fry until golden brown, crispy and cooked through, roughly 12 minutes, turning once. Drain the chicken on paper towels and serve hot. f

INGRE DIE NTS ◆ 1 Tbsp salt, or to taste ◆ ¼ tsp celery salt

◆ 1 tsp black pepper,

or to taste

◆ ½ tsp cayenne pepper ◆ 1 tsp paprika

◆ ½ tsp garlic powder

◆ ½ tsp onion powder

◆ 1 (3- to 4- lbs) frying

chicken, cut up

◆ 2 cups buttermilk

◆ 1 cup self-rising flour ◆ Peanut or vegetable oil,

for shallow-frying

Photography: Jerrelle Photography: Guy ###

Toni Tipton-Martin’s

LEMON MERINGUE PIE Sweet yet zingy, this pie is the perfect way to put a spring in your step at the end of a heavy meal.

Method

1 In a heavy saucepan, bring 1½ cups water to a boil. In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch and salt in ½ cup cold water. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks until thickened; set aside. 2 Whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling water. The mixture will thicken. Cook and stir over medium heat until it is almost translucent. 3 Whisk in 1¼ cups of the sugar and bring back to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat. Beat 2 tablespoons of the hot mixture into the egg yolks, 1 tablespoon at a time, to temper them. Whisk the warmed yolks back into the hot mixture until combined. 4 Whisk in the butter. Bring to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly, until the filling is thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Let cool. 5 In the very clean bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy, then beat on high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the last ½ cup sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form. 6 Pour the filling into the pre-baked pie crust. Spread the meringue over the top, spreading to the edges of the crust to seal. Bake until firm, 6 to 8 minutes. Allow the pie to cool on a wire rack, then refrigerate 3 to 4 hours. f

ING R E DIE NTS ◆ ⅓ cup cornstarch ◆ ¼ tsp salt

◆ 3 large eggs, separated ◆ 1 ¾ cups sugar ◆ 2 Tbsp butter

lemon zest

◆ ½ cup fresh lemon juice ◆ ¼ tsp cream of tartar

◆ 1 pre-made pie crust (or go

to foodism.to for full recipe)

Photography: Jerrelle Guy

◆ 1 Tbsp freshly grated

CABERNET SAUVIGNON WITH A BOURBON BARREL TWIST

asked questions in interviews that they would never ask a white man with half the experience. Questions about temperament or if I can handle the volume. Sometimes people don’t know why they’re not respecting your experience, or they’ve never really thought about it – which makes it even harder. Plenty of cocktail bars brag about playing hip hop. It’s one thing to do that with white women, but try playing hip hop with only Black and Brown men as your bartenders and see how cute it is. If guests see two tall Black men behind the bar serving $18 cocktails, will they want to spend that amount of money? A lot of people just don’t want to engage with the idea that some people don’t.

On the manager’s dilemma

DINNER GUEST

This issue’s guest columnist is Christina Veira, director of programming at Toronto Cocktail Week. She speaks about the path to diversity in the hospitality industry.

Photography: Jessica Blaine Smith

On systemic racism in the industry

On hospitality’s lack of diversity

We do a disservice when we talk about the hospitality industry as if it’s separate from society and its structures. You can’t tackle racism in hospitality if you don’t tackle classism or sexism, because they’re related. Because of tips, our industry has more or less handed the financial burden of compensation to guests, who have no social contract with our employees – guests who might have their own biases. A white guy might be more successful as a sommelier in a certain environment because of the clientele. We often want to divorce conversations about dining culture from conversations about work culture, because we don’t want to hurt diners’ feelings.

The common excuse you’ll get is, “We don’t get a lot of Black people applying,” or, “We hire the people that are the best for the job,” or, “We’re very demanding.” Most people don’t come out and say, “I don’t hire Black men behind the bar because they intimidate people.” Hiring friends of friends who remind them of themselves is valued over experience in the hospitality industry – and that will naturally limit the staff that people get. A lot of people of colour don’t apply to places because they don’t expect to get hired anyway.

On the experience of being overlooked I’ve received national awards, but I’m still

I don’t actually believe that you ever hire the best person for the job. You hire based on a series of criteria and try to guess who makes the most sense, probability-wise. Hospitality doesn’t always like to coach people, so if you don’t have time to train, who are you most likely to hire? Somebody who is similar to you or has some of the same cultural touchstones. I empathize if managers are feeling overwhelmed or blindsided. At best, you were probably taught how to be in charge and good with spreadsheets – and how not to be a raging asshole – but nobody told you to be thoughtful on social issues.

On the future of representation I don’t think everything has to change tomorrow because that would be a false change. There are real systemic reasons why some people haven’t been given the opportunity to foster and develop these skills because they’ve been shut out. We have to engage with what real mentorship, training and onboarding looks like going forward. When we get there we will have leadership that looks, hopefully, more like the communities we’re in. In Toronto, the staff that we’re served by in those more Western, hipster places, should look like our city. We want to see more Black, Indigenous, female staff – people of all identities. But you have to understand that will come with its own tensions and difficulties in the growing period. If guests always assume that the white guy is the manager, they may not trust minorities (including visibly gender non-conforming individuals) in certain roles. We have to look at true systemic change and find leaders who want to engage with those identities when they choose to mentor people. f

SALUD TO SUSTAINABILITY

The only spirit in the world to be both Carbon Neutral and Fair Trade Certified, you can almost taste the sustainability in every sip of Flor de Caña's delicious rums.

HEN THE WORLD ground to a halt earlier this year, roads were deserted of cars while skies were left empty of planes. Emissions were at record lows, smog-congested air became breathable and pollutionfilled waters ran clear – and we began to question the toll that humans really have on our beloved planet. As the resuscitated economy gears up to go back to “normal”, many people are wondering how we can, instead of returning things to the way they were, move towards the carbon-reduced world that we caught a glimpse of. Well, it starts with the small actions that we can do right now – like putting our dollars where our hearts are, and choosing to buy from businesses that are championing sustainability. The only spirit in the world to be both Carbon Neutral and Fair Trade Certified, Flor de Caña Rum has held sustainability as one of its core values since the founding family established the estate in 1890. Since 2005, Flor de Caña has planted 50,000 trees every single year as part of their ongoing and continuous environmental efforts. Flor de Caña’s entire line up of premium rums are all distilled with 100 per cent renewable energy – from the full-bodied 25-Year with a smooth finish that’s at its best when sipped over a single ice cube, to the 12-Year that will elevate the flavours in any of your favourite premium cocktails.

Grown, produced and aged at the base of an active volcano in Nicaragua, Flor de Caña's award-winning rums are enriched by the volcanic minerals in the soil and the air. Each rum is naturally aged without the use of any added sugars or artificial flavours – just pure, delicious rum. Achieving every standard to earn the rigorous Fair Trade Certification, Flor de Caña is not only committed to the sustainability of the planet but to its people as well. The fifth-generation family estate rum producer provides free health and education programmes to its staff and their families. Children of employees are able to attend the company school, while the company

PROMOTION

Photography:

hospital offers free medical care to employees and their families. With a deep connection to the community and uplifting its people, the family estate rum distiller supports nonprofits and community organizations. For 30 years, Flor de Caña has been the main donor funding APROQUEN a nonprofit that has provided over 600,000 free medical services to children. One of the most sustainable rums in the world, drinking Flor de Caña’s premium spirits is always a choice you can feel good about. Pouring yourself a glass of their golden-brown goodness or mixing it into your favourite cocktail is practically an act of social and

environmental activism. The only spirit in the world to be both Fair Trade Certified and Carbon Neutral, Flor de Caña has a deep commitment to sustainability, not only when it comes to the environment, but towards its employees and within the community as well. Cheers to that. ● To learn more about Flor de Caña and their commitment to sustainability practices, visit flordecana.com. To purchase one of their premium rums, visit lcbo.com.

— PART 2 —

FEAST “WE HAVE FOIE GRAS, BUT BECAUSE WE WERE AN ASIAN RESTAURANT, WE DIDN’T CHARGE FINE DINING PRICES.” THE FINE DINING DILEMMA, 066

048 INTERNATIONAL SNACKS | 054 PIVOTING POST-COVID 060 PRAGUE PHOTO SERIES | 066 THE FINE DINING DILEMMA

A SNACK IN THE FACE From sweet to savoury, creamy to crunchy, snacks come in all shapes and sizes. And boy, do we love them all. We pay homage to the great snacks of the globe – and tell you where to get them in Toronto, too.

ABOVE: Good things come in small packages: samosas are one of the Indian subcontinent’s bestknown exports, and it’s no surprise when they’re this enticing

Photography: ShreyakPhotography: Singh /Unsplash ###

OTHING BRINGS PEOPLE together quite like food does. And with all the time we’ve spent at home over the last few months, the longest trip we’ve taken is to the fridge and back (and we’ve done it more than a few times, too). So what better way to celebrate this city’s multiculturalism than with a rainbow of diverse snack foods that we can all hunker down with? We may not be able to travel right now, but our taste buds can take a first-class tour through all the flavours brought to Toronto from around the world. Give your snack drawer (or cupboard, no judgement) an upgrade with some of our favourite global treats found at shops right here in Toronto. From sweet and savoury to spicy and umami, these munchies will make CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Crispy, crunchy plantain chips; A Jamaican patty; Turkish delight; an artisan Scotch egg; an onigiri rice ball

snack time great again – just don’t blame us when you need some bigger pants.

Plantain chips CARIBBEAN CORNER, 171 BALDWIN ST.

Move over potatoes: plantain chips are where it’s at. These highly popular, highly addictive chips are claimed by many regions, from the Caribbean to Southeast Asia to South America. The sweet, salty, crunchy and sometimes spicy plantain chip has a complexity and hefty crunch that rivals their basic counterparts in the chip family, and makes for supreme snacking.

Onigiri

stays off the rice until snacking commences – we only wish we could purchase them from a vending machine like in Tokyo.

Beef patties GOLDEN PATTY, 187 BALDWIN ST.

These golden pockets filled with beef and spices hail from Jamaica. Developed after the introduction of Cornish pasties to the Caribbean, the parcels are a spicier version of the British baked pie, packed with cumin, curry seasoning and Scotch bonnet pepper. The bright patties (which get their yellow colour from the turmeric in the crust) gained popularity when West Indian communities put them on western menus.

SANKO TRADING CO., 730 QUEEN ST. W.

Cheap, delicious and adorably wrapped, this snack has it all. The rice ball ranges from basic salted versions to fancier seafood fillings, with wacky variations like fruit popping up along the way. The Japanese triangles are packaged so that the seaweed

Warak enab BAR KOUKLA, 88 OSSINGTON AVE.

These juicy little bundles of savoury goodness come in different variations across the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Called warak enab if you speak Arabic, or dolmades if you speak Greek, this snack consists of grape vine leaves stuffed to bursting with rice and seasonings. Vegetables or meat might also be tucked inside.

Scotch egg THE CALEDONIAN, 856 COLLEGE ST.

SAFFRON SPICE KITCHEN, 459 QUEEN ST. W.

From street-side snack to high tea treat, these deep-fried triangles are as diverse as the subcontinent from which they originate. Depending on where you are in India, a samosa might be filled with potatoes, minced meat, cauliflower or chilli, but they’re routinely served with chutney on the side. There are plenty of ways to serve them, but the traditional chai and samosa pairing is good enough for us. We’ll put the kettle on.

Conchas PANCHO’S BAKERY, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Enjoyed in the morning alongside a coffee or as an afternoon snack, conchas are a

Photography: (plaintain) Charisse Kenion/Unsplash; (Onigiri) Samia Liamani/unsplash;

Samosa

(Scotch egg) Sebastian Coman; (Patty) KrankNKrill; (Turkish delight) Salih Akyurek/unsplash

This hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and covered in breadcrumbs is the ultimate breakfast-on-the-go – though several Toronto faves serve a delightfully runny yolk version that you’ll want to sit and savour. Though the Scotch egg’s origins are disputed (its roots may be closer to Indian koftas than Britain’s posh department store Fortnum & Mason would have you believe) it’s generally accepted that the picnic staple is vastly improved by adding relish or mustard.

GOLDEN JAMAICAN PATTIES ARE A CARIBBEAN TAKE ON THE CLASSIC CORNISH PASTY

traditional Mexican sweet bread. The bottom half is soft and fluffy with a buttery, sweet flavour, while the top is crunchy, sugary and resembles a seashell – that’s where the name comes from. Find them in different flavours like vanilla, chocolate or strawberry.

these potato chips from South Korea. The snack, which created the ‘Honey-Butter Craze,’ will sweep you off your feet faster than your crush in your favourite Korean drama.

Turkish delight, or lokum PURDYS CHOCOLATIER, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Lala Fish Crackers SORRY SORRY STORE, 294 DUNDAS ST. W.

If you’re craving a hit of salty sea goodness, Lala Fish Crackers will transport you straight to an oceanside 7-Eleven in Manila. These fishy squares pack a crunch, yet are still light and airy. There’s a reason why they’re so swimmingly popular in the Philippines.

Honey Butter Chips SUKOSHI MART, #7B, 160 BALDWIN ST.

Oh baby, let’s Netflix and ch... ips. Salty, buttery crunchiness meets sweet honey in

In C.S. Lewis’ The Chronicles of Narnia, a boy named Edmund was lured by the White Witch with sugary Turkish delight. We’d be tempted too – these sweet treats translate to “morsel” in Turkish. They come in beautiful flavours like rose, almond, lemon and pistachio. And yes, they’re delightful.

Indomie mi goreng NATIONS FRESH FOOD, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Who says instant noodles can’t be a snack? The instant version of the Indonesian dish mi goreng (which means “fried noodles”), →

→ hits all the requirements of the ideal latenight snack. Springy noodles are topped with crunchy fried onion and a holy trinity of sweet and spicy chili sauce, umami and sweet soy sauce and rich sesame oil. Feel free to consume during the day or as a midafternoon snack, too – we don’t blame you. Tim Tam REAL CANADIAN SUPERSTORE, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Vegemite isn’t the only Australian snack turned ritual. Behold the Tim Tam, a chocolate malted biscuit separated by a chocolate cream filling that’s also covered in chocolate. Tim Tams are still made in Australia, as they have been since 1964, but thankfully you don’t have to cross the world to get them. Bonus: bite off opposite ends of a Tim Tam and slurp milk through the chocolate-y “straw” for a Tim Tam Slam.

Chicharrón PEROLA’S SUPERMARKET, 247 AUGUSTA AVE.

This crunchy customer, made from fried pork rinds or pork belly, has such a wide global influence, it’s impossible to agree on a single origin – but the Philippines, Spain, Puerto Rico and Bolivia lay claim to it. Chicharrón is seasoned and deep-fried until puffy, and can be sprinkled on top of tacos for texture – but where’s the fun in that? We’ll be eating straight from the bag, thanks.

Bofrot, or puff-puff AFRICAN CHOP BAR, 2503 FINCH AVE. W.

We won’t say no to anything deep fried – especially our sweets. Also known as “puff puff”, bofrot is a Ghanaian sweet, that we can only compare to an airy donut hole. The dough is fried into crunchy yet light and fluffy balls that are generously sprinkled with icing

ONIGIRI RICE BALLS ARE SO POPULAR IN TOKYO THAT YOU CAN BUY THEM FROM VENDING MACHINES

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A soup topped with chicharrón; Thai pancakes or khanom bueang; beloved Dutch sweet snack Stroopwafel

sugar or eaten plain. Though they’re usually made for breakfast in Ghana, we’re down to eat them anytime of day.

Khanom bueang Photography: (main) Eiliv Sonas Aceron/unsplash; (waffle)

Milou Moors/unsplash; (pancakes) rket-328085924

TALAD THAI MARKET, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Don’t let the appearance fool you. This tacolike treat is an ancient Thai dessert. Known as crispy or Thai pancakes in English, khanom bueang is found on streets all over Thailand. As the crepe batter sets, it’s covered in pillowy soft cream, sprinkled with fillings, then folded over for a delicious bite-sized morsel. Choose savoury toppings like fried shrimp, or sweet foi thong – strips of egg yolk boiled in syrup.

Stroopwafel HOLLAND STORE, 2542 WESTON RD.

What’s better than waffles? Stroopwafels: crunchy waffles pressed flat in a hot iron

skillet, sandwiching a layer of sweet and buttery caramel all the way through. Stroopwafel means syrup or treacle waffle in Dutch – this sweet treat hails from The Netherlands, where they mastered the art of street-friendly sweets. Up your snack skills by pairing with a scoop of ice cream or dipping in your mid-morning coffee.

White Rabbit Creamy Candy

Chin chins NAOMI AFRICAN FOOD MARKET, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

The love for this crunchy, deep fried Nigerian pastry runs deep. Chin chins are popular during celebrations, but they’ve also become a beloved street corner snack at kiosks and supermarkets across West Africa. What can we say? Good things happen when butter, sugar and flour mix.

T&T SUPERMARKET, MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Biltong

An iconic Shanghai treat, White Rabbit Creamy Candy has been a favourite in China for nearly 80 years. Soft and chewy, the milkbased sweet is reminiscent of taffy or nougat. Within the wax paper packaging, the candies are wrapped in an edible paper made of sticky rice – don’t throw it away! It’s meant to be eaten with the creamy candy. Try original vanilla, or flavours like lychee and matcha.

Like beef jerky, but better. This South African salty snack is a form of air-dried meat marinated in salt and spices. The process of making these chewy meat slices has been kept virtually the same for centuries, because why mess with a good thing, right? The different marinades and range of meat from ostrich to kudu make for a variety of biltong. f

BILTONG TORONTO, 1040 ALBION RD.

BELOW: Maya Bay in Cabbagetown was originally intended to be a late-night snack bar before COVID shifted its focus

PIVOT! PIVOT! As Toronto’s restaurants and bars begin to reopen, things are looking a little different. We meet the people who aren’t afraid to change things up in order to keep their businesses alive. WORDS BY KATIE BRIDGES | PHOTOS BY JEFFREY CHAN

Photography: ###

SPECIAL NIGHT DESERVES a special dining experience, and my wedding anniversary in May was no different. I chose a new pop-up situated directly in my ’hood (cough, living room) for its location and very little else. Between its seriously cozy dimensions, bashed up neon bar sign, and a pile of laundry that threatened to spill off an armchair, it would struggle to notch up two stars on Yelp. The service did little to redeem things (the guy who took my order proceeded to scroll through memes for five minutes). But the drinks were boozy, and hey, what choice did we have? Welcome to dining ‘out’ in 2020. When the universe threw the ultimate spanner in the works this March, we holed up in our apartments and clung whiteknuckled as we shuttled between denial (“I’m making sourdough!”) and acceptance (“I’m still making sourdough!”), and back again. But while we were riding the COVID grief express train – or creating tasting menus and cocktails in makeshift bars in our apartments – the industry was already making plans. “We tried to stay open for a week,” says Jimson Bienenstock, co-owner of HotBlack Coffee on Queen Street West. “Then we closed on March 22 – we knew we needed to reinvent and regroup because coming inside was no longer an option.” The popular coffee shop – which made waves when it opened in 2017 for withholding free WiFi from customers – initially took advantage of their complete lack of business, redoing the flooring and getting things ready to reopen. When society itself wasn’t ready to be unveiled, Bienenstock rolled up his sleeves. “I physically couldn’t find a builder, so I sawed our big central harvest table down. We wheeled it into the front window and were able to serve directly from the front doorstep.” Little did HotBlack know that this was just the beginning of its metamorphosis into a foodie playground – and the reason why my coffee run now routinely nets out at $60. When the Alcohol and Gaming Commission of Ontario announced that restaurants and bars could sell alcohol with a food component, the coffee shop wasted little time pivoting. “I literally took the bottles out of the cellar and stuck them on the shelf,” says Bienenstock, a trained sommelier who had previously licenced the store for industry events like TIFF. “We already had the skill set, the local stuff and the natural component. It was quite straightforward.”

The only problem? Interesting wines from Pearl Morissette and Hidden Bench, which didn’t require a wait outside the LCBO, quickly sold out and before long Bienenstock was driving out to Niagara to pick up more. While there, he stopped at Upper Canada Cheese Company, where he was introduced to other makers, and so on and so forth. Suddenly, he was loading up the trunk with everything from hot sauce to apple juice, providing HotBlack customers with directto-producer quality. Though the Queen St. coffee shop was making sourdough long before lockdown, their loaves received a glow up – they’re now baked with terroir-driven

MAYA BAY FEELS MORE LIKE BANGKOK’S KHAOSAN ROAD THAN TORONTO

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Maya Bay, which opened mid-lockdown, operates as a Thaistyle street market; Jimson Bienenstock serves customers curbside at HotBlack Coffee; rare Ontario wines have become a large part of the coffee shop’s offering

flour from K2 Milling, where “one field has a completely different flavour to another field of milled flour. [And] it’s not sitting there breaking down in a bag for weeks or months,” says Bienenstock of the producer. Though it requires a drive out of Toronto, Bienenstock is happy for the break and glad to repair the broken supply chain in the wake of the pandemic. Plus, he’s learning a lot: “Who knew that some of the world’s best hot peppers grow on the shore of Lake Erie?” And while opening a restaurant midpandemic is unlikely to top the wishlists of Toronto’s restaurateurs, one enterprising proprietor has turned lemons into

lemongrass over in Cabbagetown. “We signed the lease on March 15, and planned to open in the middle of April,” says Phanom “Patrick” Suksaen, the owner of a number of Thai restaurants, most recently Maya Bay on Carlton Street. “Originally, Maya Bay was going to be a late-night Thai snack bar with drinks. We would serve some full meals as well, and then we’d close around 1 a.m.” Instead, Maya Bay has temporarily been given over entirely to Talad Thai Market, with chefs firing up grills in the open and serving spicy dishes like satay chicken, kanom krok (coconut pancakes) and pork

skewers through the open window. As I sip a pineapple smoothie, served in the hollowedout fruit on the hottest day of the year, the restaurant feels more like it’s on Bangkok’s Khaosan Road than Parliament Street. “Because of COVID, I had to think of something different – so that we could survive and so we could help the Thai community make money as well.” That meant offering any of his out-ofwork employees or friends in the hospitality industry access to the facilities at the bustling market pop-up in Cabbagetown. “Any chef wanting to cook their snacks can use our kitchen and we’ll sell it in front of →

ABOVE: Chef Chris Locke has created a physical distancing-friendly menu on Marben’s patio; RIGHT: Treats from Marben’s grocery box service

→ Maya Bay,” explains Patrick as he makes me up a bag of goodies. Sister spots Koh Lipe and Eat BKK on Queen also have Talad Thai stalls out front, but it’s Maya Bay with the streetside khanom bueang (crispy pancakes), sai krok (spicy sausage) and Thai ice cones that make any visit feel like such a spectacle. “People need something outdoors right now, they need a festival. There’s nothing like that at the moment, so I tried to create something that would make people want to eat on the street again.” When Toronto moved into Phase Two, restaurants walked a moral tightrope as they prepared to open patios in a way that made customers and staff alike feel safe. On a steamy Wednesday in July, I head to Wellington Street, where the table is set for the first meal beyond my apartment in months. “This has been the strangest menu launch,” admits Chris Locke, chef at Marben and the mastermind behind the neighbourhood spot’s COVID survival plan. “We’re extremely locally and seasonally focused, but with everything that’s going on, a lot of farmers just aren’t growing stuff or don’t have the labour to harvest ingredients. The supply chain has been disrupted.” For a restaurant that only has to walk across its patio to pluck greens from vegetable planters, relying on ingredients that come from the U.S. or Mexico has been a little galling. However, given the current climate, the chef understands the bigger picture. “Making it taste good is more important than the educational aspect right now,” says Locke, who explains that with guests accessing menus from a QR code, Marben was conscious of keeping wording simple. “It’s a very odd experience – servers wearing masks are trying to explain a dish to somebody who is reading it off their phone. We just try to make the guest experience as good as it can be given everything we have to take into account.” Mission accomplished. After a long hiatus from the restaurant scene, in which food on a plate now seems elevated, I am grateful to dive into my meal without a soliloquy from our server that requires a dictionary to decode. The other (far less welcome) absence from the evening is Cloak Bar, a spinoff speakeasy below Marben. The bar may have been shuttered since March, but its spirit has been kept alive with bottled cocktails sold through their grocery service, including drinks like Miles From Japan, the bar’s delicious bestseller made with gin, Choya Umeshu and Tio Pepe sherry.

PEOPLE NEED SOMETHING OUTDOORS RIGHT NOW, THEY NEED A FESTIVAL While waiting for a government wage subsidy, the restaurant launched Marben Market, their farm-to-table grocery box service. Undeniably, the industry was in trouble – but what a coup to have restaurantquality pickles, jams, preserves and bread available to collect on our daily lockdown walks! If we didn’t feel like cooking, delivery options quickly popped up with cocktail kit add-ons becoming more appealing the longer this went on. Even Alo, Canada’s top-rated restaurant, did the unthinkable and opened up reservations for a different kind of tasting menu – one I can enjoy from the comfort of my pajamas. Not only does the delivery come with my name on the menu, it also grants access to the restaurant’s Spotify playlist,

meaning I can dim my lights and play make believe, even digging out linen napkins to go with my braised veal shanks and dinner rolls. Fun though it might be, delivery innovations are hardly a boon financially, with restaurants already operating on razorthin margins before the pandemic. “What people need to realize is that a lot of the innovation and ways people have pivoted was basically to stay alive, but it’s not a real moneymaker,” says David Hopkins, president of the Fifteen Group, a North American restaurant consulting company. One thing he would like to see continue, however, is the AGCO’s willingness to relax the rules around booze. And while liquidating (literally) their assets was a good way to unload some inventory, he thinks the authority could go one step further. “At the moment, restaurants are paying pretty much the same price you pay at the liquor store for their alcohol, which makes absolutely no sense.” In contrast, B.C. just moved to a model where restaurants receive a wholesale discount for alcohol – an easy win for the Ontario government if they want to impact restaurant survival. But aside from not leaving one-star reviews – as one of chef Anthony Rose’s customers did when her meal was disrupted due to COVID health and safety measures at Madame Boeuf – what can we do as customers? Well, stomaching an increased bill is a good place to start. “We’re encouraging our clients to put their prices up,” says Hopkins. “Right now, there aren’t enough tables to go around. If your capacity is reduced by 50 per cent, you need to make money somehow.” When some of the city’s oldest establishments have buckled in the face of coronavirus (Vesuvio’s, Prohibition Gastrohouse, Globe Bistro), it would be foolish to think that the industry can bounce back unscathed. However, in Alberta and B.C., where restaurants have been open inside for weeks, there’s been little pushback from guests on higher prices. A sign, Hopkins believes, that good things are ahead. “The lingering effect of this is that restaurants could actually get back to being a profitable industry instead of a challenge.” A pandemic, like Toronto’s restaurant scene, is unpredictable and by the time you’re reading this, it’s entirely possible we could be dining out in a much more ‘normal’ way. But one thing is for sure – our appetite for great food is as insatiable as ever. f

BELOW: A view of the Malรก Strana neighbourhood (also known as Lesser Town) from the Prague Castle steps RIGHT: Empty plates are the sign of a great meal at Sansho, a Michelin Bib restaurant in Prague

CZECH THIS OUT

After a few decades of growing pains, the Czech Republic is going through a culinary renaissance and enticing chefs from all over Europe to pick up pans and move to Prague. PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARB SIMKOVA

LEFT: Local kielbasa sausage ready to be barbecued at a market in the town square of Liberec BELOW: KolĂĄÄ?e, a pastry made of yeasted dough with fillings like plum butter, apple, cherry and poppyseed

Photography: ###

BELOW: A romantic facade in Liberec, once a thriving hub for the textile industry and now the fifth-largest city in the Czech Republic

ABOVE: Calamari, enjoyed on a Taste of Prague food tour, shows how far the Czech Republic has come since Communist rule prohibited chefs from developing recipes outside of statesanctioned menus

FOODISMTO

IT’S BEEN DONE AND IS BEING DONE. JUST NOT HERE. Toronto has been dubbed the most multicultural city in the world, yet its fine dining scene remains resoundingly white. We take a look at a category of cuisine that’s ripe for change. WORDS BY TAYLOR NEWLANDS

Photography: Magdanatka

LEFT TO RIGHT: DaiLo’s photogenic set up; Nick Liu of DaiLo; DaiLo’s takeout tasting menu, which is being sold on weekends

AST SUMMER, I brought a friend to SoSo Food Club for dinner. The Chinese restaurant had opened a year before and its location at Ossington and Dundas, along with the glow of Instagrammable neon lighting and clientele who looked much cooler than myself, all promised for a good night. We sat down and I pored over the list of items I’d mostly never heard of, excited to try Chinese cuisine beyond the westernized General Tso’s Chicken I’d eaten at cheap and cheerful takeout spots so many times before. But my friend didn’t share my enthusiasm.

WE SHARE SUPPLIERS WITH THE BEST FINE DINING SPOTS

I watched her shift anxiously in her seat, eyeing the menu. After a few minutes of awkward silence, I offered her an out. “Do you want to go somewhere else?” Relieved, she cast her menu aside and we left. Once outside, she complained about how “weird” and “overpriced” the restaurant was. Her sour attitude bothered me, but I chalked it up to us just not being hipster enough to hang out in that neighbourhood. We settled on an Italian restaurant instead. After this particularly uncomfortable incident, I began to realize that this same scenario had played out dozens of times in my social circle. When dining out or ordering in, among friends, family or acquaintances, there are often moments when someone reveals that they just don’t want to pay that much money for that type of cuisine. French and Italian restaurants seem to hold an exclusive place on the pedestal of foods that Torontonians are willing to pay top dollar for. But what is it that makes a plate of Italian noodles inherently more valuable than a plate of Asian noodles? “We’re buying from all the same suppliers that all the fine dining places are getting from. We’re buying from small suppliers, local farmers; very, very high-quality products,” says chef-owner Nick Liu of his Asian restaurant DaiLo. “And just because of the concept, we didn’t charge as much as we should have off the hop.” When DaiLo first opened in the summer of 2014, some customers didn’t feel right about paying what was actually a fair price for the restaurant’s “New Asian Cuisine.” “We really did have a hard time and a few negative comments on Yelp talking about how expensive we were. But our margins were probably lower than most of the fine dining restaurants that were serving the same food, just in a different way – a typical French-European way. We still have foie gras and truffles on everything, but because we were an Asian restaurant, we had to not charge the fine dining prices [when we first opened],” says Liu. With the quality of ingredients and the range of luxury items like foie gras matched across the board, shouldn’t a restaurant like DaiLo be able to go up against the heavy hitters in Toronto’s fine dining food scene? Some might argue that training and

technique make French fare more worthy of our hard-earned dollars. Around the world, classic French training is still touted in the top tier of culinary excellence. While DaiLo serves mainly Chinese cuisine, the dishes are created with French tradition in mind. Before opening his College Street eatery, Liu had a storied career working in some of the best restaurants across the globe. As a French-trained chef, Liu worked in French fine dining his “whole entire life,” until he rediscovered the value of the cuisine he had eaten growing up. “I was living with my aunt and uncle. And my aunt came home late one day and she started doing all these things – she pulled this rolling pin out, rolled out some dough and just made a whole bunch of dumplings and scallion pancakes. At the time, I had just worked with Heston Blumenthal, and I’m watching this lady and I’m like, ‘Holy fuck this is amazing.’ She’s one of the best cooks I’ve ever seen,” says Liu. “That changed my whole perspective. Like, ‘Holy shit, the food that I’ve been brought up with is actually really good and [so are] the techniques that go into it.’” Of course, Asian isn’t the only other type of food that requires serious culinary prowess. From South American fare to Middle Eastern eats and Caribbean cuisine, every style of

EVERY STYLE OF COOKING HAS ITS OWN UNIQUE SET OF TECHNIQUES cooking has its own unique set of techniques required to make delicious dishes that are authentic to that culture. “Jerk is a technique,” says Angela Lawrence, the chief culture officer at Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen. “It’s a technique to do it and do it well. And that’s something that we invested a lot of money and time in – we have a wood fired grill so that we can create that smoky flavour. At our commissary kitchen, we have a complete meat marination programme. Our chicken, our pork, our jerk

go through 36-72 hours of marination before they’re even delivered to the restaurant.” Like DaiLo, Chubby’s is an outlier, raising the bar and the price point for a style of cuisine that has previously been boxed in to the cheap takeout category in Toronto. And like DaiLo, Chubby’s has also faced backlash over their pricing, even though the quality of their homestyle Jamaican cuisine can more than justify the cost to diners. “Every patty that comes out of our kitchen has been made by hand, folded by hand, filled by hand, crimped by hand. There’s a cost to that, as opposed it being mass produced using a machine. And the ingredients in our fillings are not inexpensive. That’s reflected in the price,” says Lawrence. After quality ingredients and the technical skill involved to make each dish, the atmosphere is next on the list of banners that high-end restaurants brandish. Chubby’s has that covered, too. Beautiful murals inside and outside of the building by local artists Komi Olaf and Elicser Elliott “make people, even before they come in the door, feel like ‘Oh I’m about to go somewhere,’” says Lawrence. “The music is beautifully curated. The experience is curated. Our food is curated. We wanted to transport people to Jamaica for a few hours.” Along with Chubby’s and DaiLo, plenty →

Photography: Joey Salmingo

→ of mid- to high-end restaurants have opened

Photography: Stacey Brandford, Eighty Eight Films

up in the last decade that offer Torontonians the whole package – high quality ingredients; culinary prowess that goes into creating delicious, balanced dishes; and a curated atmosphere. Yet these restaurants still tend to be overlooked and lists like Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants remain resoundingly white. Only a small number of Toronto restaurants that ranked on this year’s list serve something other than French and Italian fare. How can that be representative of a place dubbed the most multicultural city in the world? “I think that a lot of global food hasn’t broken through to that category of what’s considered the top echelon, but to me, it’s also about who sets the standard,” says Lawrence. “Who’s to say that this restaurant that you eat at and you leave hungry is the best restaurant? Lots of the standards that are placed are European standards. That’s why a lot of these restaurants are going to be judged from these European standards of what’s good cooking and what’s not. That’s where there needs to be more diversity.” In Montreal, fine dining spot Candide asked to be removed from Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants in an Instagram post. “While we are always happy and grateful to be recognized, we cannot remain silent regarding the lack of diversity in this year’s @canadasbest100 restaurant list. We cannot call for #changehospitality and simultaneously celebrate a list that is exclusive, and more than 80% white,” reads the post on the restaurant’s Instagram. Candide then asks to be replaced with another Montreal spot Palme, touting them as “one of the best Haitian restaurants in this country.” “We encourage any restaurant featured and owned by a white man to stand in solidarity, and ask @canadasbest100 to replace their winning entry with a restaurant that they love and is owned by someone in the Black, Indigenous or POC community,” it continues. The post came after the murder of George Floyd by police rocked the world and the Black Lives Matter movement sprang into the forefront of the mainstream media. Back in Toronto, lists of Black-owned businesses popped up all over the internet. People flocked to restaurants like Aunty Lucy’s, buying up their juicy smash burgers until they were completely sold out – showing that when it comes to more wallet-friendly foods, Torontonians are right there, ready to support the multicultural experiences available. For those who have the capital to drop on high-end dining experiences, and for

WE CANNOT CELEBRATE A LIST THAT IS MORE THAN 80% WHITE LEFT: Angela Lawrence of Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen; TOP: Inside Chubby’s; BOTTOM: The restaurant serves Jamaican homestyle cooking

the special occasions that we sock away money for, perhaps it’s time to rethink which restaurants we choose to eat at. As places like Chubby’s and DaiLo push the envelope, more restaurateurs have begun, and will continue to follow in their footsteps. All kinds of high-end restaurants could be on the horizon – like Caribbean fine dining. “I think there’s a space for that,” says Lawrence. “It’s not like it hasn’t been done before. Is there a restaurant here in Toronto that has opened in that category? No. But it’s been done and it is being done. Just not here.” But are we prepared to support these restaurants if they do open? “I absolutely think the people in Toronto are ready for it.” f

MAKE YOUR FAVOURITE VODKA COCKTAIL NOTICEABLY BETTER Go to zirkova.com/cocktails for delicious recipes and videos

Frozen Black Lemonade BE YOURSELF. MIX WELL WITH OTHERS.

Available at your local LCBO. Enjoy Responsibly.

Zirkova Together Vodka Simple syrup Freshly squeezed lemon juice Frozen blackberries Frozen black cherries Lemon zest

PROMOTION

INGREDIENTS For the crust: ◆ 3 cups all-purpose flour ◆ ½ tsp salt

◆ ½ tsp baking powder

◆ ½ lb vegetable shortening or lard,

cubed

◆ 1 egg, divided

◆ 1 Tbsp vinegar

◆ 1 tsp pure vanilla extract ◆ Cold water

For the filling: ◆ 1 cup Redpath® Dark Brown Sugar ◆ 3 Tbsp all-purpose flour ◆ 1 tsp ground cinnamon ◆ ¼ tsp salt

◆ ½ cup heavy cream

◆ 1 Tbsp butter, melted

◆ 5 to 6 small apples, sliced

◆ 1 tsp heavy cream, milk or water

APPLE OF MY EYE Made with Redpath Sugar, this award-winning recipe has been passed down from mothers to daughters in one Ontario family for 90 years. We’re glad it’s not a secret anymore. Method FOR THE CRUST:

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt and baking powder until well mixed. Add in the cubed shortening, and toss with the flour mixture. With a pastry blender, cut the shortening into the flour until it resembles coarse sand with a few pea-sized lumps. 2 In a large measuring cup, add one teaspoon of the beaten egg. Reserve the rest for the egg wash. Add the vinegar and vanilla extract into the measuring cup. Add cold water until it measures ½ cup; whisk together. 3 Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients. With a rubber spatula, mix until just combined; do not overmix. Do not knead dough. 4 Gently shape dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic wrap. Place into

the fridge to chill; at least 30 minutes. 5 On a well-floured work surface, roll chilled pie dough (⅛ to ¼-inch thick) into a 14-inch round. 6 Transfer rolled dough into a 9½-inch pie plate. Trim and crimp edges. Place into the fridge to chill; at least 10 minutes. FOR THE FILLING:

7 Preheat oven to 350°F. 8 In a large measuring cup, whisk together the Redpath ® Dark Brown Sugar, flour, cinnamon and salt. 9 In a microwaveable bowl or small measuring cup, warm the heavy cream and butter at 20-second intervals until butter is melted. Add the cream into the sugar and stir until well blended. 10 Arrange sliced apples in a circular pattern on the bottom of the chilled

crust. Pour the dark brown sugar mixture over the apples, ensuring apples are coated in sauce. 11 With the reserved beaten egg, whisk in a teaspoon of cream, milk or water to create an egg wash. With a pastry brush, lightly brush the egg wash onto the crust. 12 Place pie into the preheated oven and bake for 60 to 75 minutes or until apples are tender and crust is a deep golden colour. 13 Remove from oven and cool completely on a wire cooling rack; at least 4 hours. To ensure a clean slice, place into the fridge for an additional 1 to 2 hours before slicing to allow juices and filling to firm up. ● Find this recipe and more on RedpathSugar.com

NE W !

ARE YOU FREE TONIGHT? A wine inspired by those sudden and undeniable attractions. Enjoy these moments while you can, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know if they will last.

Now available at your local LCBO.

Please enjoy responsibly.

— PART 3 —

QUENCH “MOST OF MY CLIENTS ARE MEAD VIRGINS. IF I RUIN IT FOR THEM, I RUIN IT FOR EVERY MEADERY.” ONTARIO’S MEAD MAKERS, 076

076 ONTARIO’S MEAD MAKERS | 082 THE NEXT ROUND | 083 BOOZERS AND SHAKERS 090 COCKTAIL HOUR | 096 BOTTLE SERVICE | 103 COCKTAIL DECONSTRUCT

ABOVE: In Ontario, you must have 100 hives in order to operate as a meadery. Despite these restrictions, many are popping up across the province

SHOW ME THE HONEY Caroline Aksich meets the makers giving mead a strictly modern makeover â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and finds that drinking this ancient honey hooch is basically an act of environmental activism. ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATALIE SWIERCZ Photograph Photograph by Macondo by ###

HAT COMES TO mind when you conjure up a glass of mead? Is it a potion so sweet it’s almost sticky? A drink reserved for wannabe wizards and renaissance fairs? If so, it’s time to dispel these sugary preconceptions, because a clutch of Ontario mead mavericks is producing some seriously phenomenal, fresh takes on this ancient honey hooch. Thanks to these producers, Ontario is on the cusp of a mead renaissance. Minus the fair. “Our mandate is to contemporize mead,” says Sean Hazell, a co-founder of Royal Canadian Mead Co. (RCM), one of the Ontario mead makers that’s aiming to return the drink to the mainstream. “And to challenge people’s perceptions of it being this sweet, heavy, syrupy honey wine for Vikings.” At 9,000 years old, mead is the world’s oldest alcoholic beverage. It might be bestknown today as the nectar of the Greek gods and the potent stuff that fueled Norse heroes in Viking epics, but this ancient alcohol is a global phenomenon, invented multiple times by many different peoples. It was used in Mayan rituals, enjoyed in India, brewed by the Chinese, Ethiopians and the Xhosa. Mead

is ubiquitous. It knows no single origin, and is associated with no single culture: it’s been enjoyed by everyone from Polish peasants to Egyptian pharaohs. But until recently, it was rare to spy the beverage in the LCBO. Like their predecessors, these modern iterations vary wildly. RCM, alongside Burlington’s brand new meadery Backed by Bees, are both making crushable cans of sparkling session mead that are floral and fresh. Rosewood, a Niagara winery with 300 of their own beehives, makes excellent pyments (see the glossary to the right for more information), and has been experimenting with barrel aging. Meanwhile, one-year-old Millefleurs out in Prince Edward County, is making pinot noir-reminiscent melomels alongside sophisticated bottles of traditional mead. Mead’s biggest boon is also one of its biggest challenges. Its only defining characteristic is that it must be made with honey, yeast and water, but these three ingredients yield an array of flavour profiles. Mead can be sweet, dry, carbonated, naturally effervescent, and becomes even more complex when mixed with fruit, grains and herbs. There’s an almost infinite spectrum of sipping possibilities. But because

GLOSSARY • TRADITIONAL MEAD: Made with water, honey and yeast (also called honey wine). • MELOMEL: A mead fermented with fruit (cysers and pyments are types of melomels). • PYMENT: A mead fermented with grape juice. • CYSER: A mead fermented with apple juice. • BOCHET: A burnt-honey mead made from caramelizing the honey prior to fermentation. • SESSION MEAD: A low-ABV style of mead.

Photograph by Aaron Lynett

this burgeoning beverage category doesn’t fit in a box, it can be a challenge to market. “Mead’s versatility is a blessing and a curse,” says RCM’s Hazell, whose background in marketing makes him acutely aware of the importance of branding when it comes to forging a new beverage category. According to Hazell, “it’s a blessing because the possibilities for brewing, blending and cocktails are almost endless. It’s a curse because there are a million things you can do with mead. And first impressions hold a lot of weight, so people’s experiences and preconceptions of what it tastes like are all over the map.” Its manic nature is also what inspired RCM’s tagline: “Forget everything you never knew about mead.” Backed by Bees, Ontario’s newest meadery, is tucked onto a swath of farmland nestled between four Burlington conservation areas. The 360-hive apiary and farm is a work in progress: they’re currently building a new facility, which will be made from recycled shipping containers (in keeping with their green mission statement). Although Backed by Bees is currently under construction, they’re open for business. Their first crop of crushable session meads made with local, seasonal fruit received rave reviews. As did mead master Vincent Sowa’s slow-sipping bochet (burnt honey mead). Sowa is excited to be the new kid on the block, but he’s hoping to see the number of Ontario makers grow. “With the way the industry is, the more people doing it, the better because it’s such a hard slog telling people what mead is,” he says. “Most of my clients are mead virgins,” →

ABOVE: Winemaker Ryan Corrigan uses a wine thief to take a sample of Old Smokey, a bourbon barrel-aged bochet-style mead in the cellar at Rosewood Winery and Meadery in Beamsville, Ontario; LEFT: Beekeepers use smokers to calm honey bees

→ says Millefleurs owner Sylvain Segard. “This means if someone doesn’t like my mead, if I ruin it for one person, I ruin it for every other meadery out there because that person might be too skittish to try another mead if they don’t enjoy their first experience.” Segard, a certified sommelier and retired public servant, is new to the industry, but hopes his meads will appeal to oenophiles. His first mead, called First Flight, is a traditional honey wine that sips almost like a riesling: light, dry medium body with a juicy acidity and a bitter almond finish. Although First Flight takes only four months to make from harvest to bottle, Millefleurs’ meads have been years in the making. Segard and his wife are retired public servants that have long-plotted a pastoral retirement. Now, they’re spending their sunset years tending to 100-plus honeybee colonies while keeping a five-acre lavender farm. One of the most challenging aspects of building their new meadery, though, was simply keeping the bees alive. To operate a meadery in Ontario, you must have 100 hives humming on the property. “As you know, the bees are in trouble… We have lost between 30 and 50 per cent of our hives some winters,” says Segard. “Getting to that 100 number was a real stumbling block.” In Ontario there are only a half-dozen mead producers, but down in the U.S. the beverage category is booming. Over the last two decades, the number of American meaderies has increased hugely, with almost 500 mead makers brewing. North of the 49th parallel, we’re seeing some fantastic products come on the market, but the barrier to entry remains the 100-hive rule. “In Ontario, you must excel at both making wine and beekeeping. It’s definitely a

hurdle for new entrants,” says Segard. “I’ve visited a lot of U.S. meaderies, and much of their mead is unpalatable. There are exceptions to this, of course, but a lot of it – especially the stuff from strip mall meaderies – is bad,” says Rosewood Winery’s William Roman, a staunch supporter of the 100-hive rule. “You have to be an excellent wine grower to be an excellent wine maker,” says Roman, who believes the logic holds for mead. “Excellent mead makers need to also be excellent beekeepers.” Matt Gibson, RCM’s fellow co-founder, is currently chatting with MPPs about how the 100-hive rule is stymieing Ontario’s mead industry. “We’re trying to change some of the rules around mead production,” says Gibson. “This will hopefully make the reality of urban meaderies a possibility. Just like every neighbourhood has a craft brewery, I’d love to see neighbourhood meaderies opening up their doors all over Ontario.” RCM currently exists as a virtual meadery. They brew in Toronto, but source their honey

EXCELLENT MEAD MAKERS NEED TO BE EXCELLENT BEEKEEPERS

from Bath, Ontario. The current laws prohibit RCM from selling directly to consumers, so they only sell their meads to the LCBO and bars. “We wanted to focus all our efforts on the beverage itself. Having to put in the time, money and focus needed to manage 100 beehives would have been too much for us to do properly out of the gate,” says Gibson. “Plus, there are some incredible local beekeepers already in Ontario, and we wanted to be able to support that local agricultural industry with our products.” Rosewood’s Roman, meanwhile, is adamant that the 100-hive rule is imperative to keeping Ontario’s honey bees (and their keepers) buzzing. “I call the period between 1929 – when the LCBO was formed – and 1972 the dark days of Ontario’s alcohol system,” says Roman. “During those years not one single alcohol license of any kind was awarded in Ontario. For almost 50 years, the LCBO prevented innovation and stunted growth. This is one of the reasons why we are lightyears behind America… It’s not because

ABOVE: All Day Croquet’s wildflower session mead; BELOW: Lavender is essential for bee keeping; BOTTOM LEFT: Millefleurs’ farm and highly regarded First Flight

of the 100-hives requirement.” According to Roman, “If you make a bad product the industry as a whole suffers. This is what happened in the ’80s in Ontario. Remember that sparkling wine Baby Duck? It took us a long time to shed that image. Ontario is not Baby Duck, but a lot of people still think that Ontario is subpar when it comes to grape growing and wine making. This is why barriers to entry are important.” Roman is speaking from the perspective of a third-generation beekeeper. His grandfather, a beekeeper, came over from the Ukraine with the dream of opening a meadery, but could never get the bank backing to materialize his dreams. Eugene Roman, William Roman’s father, picked up his father’s dream a few decades later when he bought an unloved acreage in Beamsville. After planting the vines and building the estate, Roman Senior relocated all the hives from the family’s commercial Nobleton, Ontario apiary to Rosewood. “The 100-hive rule means you get serious beekeepers who can actually keep bees and make honey,” says Roman, who founded the Ontario Mead Makers Association three years ago to protect our local honey industry. “We need to preserve the mead industry for beekeepers. There are a lot of problems with bees dying and the profitability of beekeeping operations. The newer generations aren’t attracted to beekeeping because they don’t see how they can make enough money to live comfortably. There’s an issue of a greying and dying population of beekeepers in Ontario. Value-add products like honey wine are ways to revitalize an industry that’s currently dying.” Regardless of the policy surrounding mead production, with bee populations declining, drinking mead is almost an act of environmental activism. The drink supports Ontario’s beekeepers, who in turn support the pollinator populations in peril. Modern mead is no longer your uncle’s sticky garage honey wine, it’s now delectable. Ontario’s mead makers may be small in number, but they’re making high quality quaffs that will appeal to just about every predilection: Rosewood’s barrel-aged meads will tantalize spirit-sipping crowds, while the session brews put out by RCM and Backed by Bees are sure to romance cider swillers who appreciate a tart sweetness and light bubble. Millefleurs’ meads, meanwhile, boast sophisticated wine-like profiles. Ontario’s mead industry might be small but it’s mighty, and we’re all abuzz about it. f

NIC E TO MEA D YO U: T HR EE TO T RY

RCM’s All Day Croquet

Made with Bath, Ontario honey, this session mead boasts notes of stone fruit, a whiff of wild flowers and an effervescent finish.

Rosewood’s Pomme D’or

A bone-dry bochet cyser made from a mix of heritage cider apples fermented with burnt honey. The mead sits in French oak barrels for a year before it’s transferred into Calvados barrels for an additional 12 months, where it develops smoky notes of apple pie and cognac.

Backed by Bees MissBeehaven Cherry

Made with tart Niagara cherries, wildflower honey and oak chips, this slightly sweet, low-alcohol and low-cal ambrosia sits for 30 days. Time and a bit of carbonation transform the brew into a crisp refresher.

THE NEXT ROUND The latest additions to our bar cart meet the newest soft stuff.

MI CAMP O RE PO SADO T EQUILA

R OB E RT M ONDAVI PR IVAT E SE L E C T IO N RU M BAR R E L-AG ED M E R L OT

Made from blue weber agave, this reposado is fermented in open-air tanks by a grove of citrus trees, then aged in oak barrels used for winemaking, resulting in honey and maple notes. $44.95, lcbo.com

Expect molasses and vanilla on the nose, and ripe dark fruit, caramel and brown sugar on the palate. $19.95, lcbo.com

BEEFEATE R BLOOD ORANGE

CO LL E C T IVE ARTS G IN LE MO N & T HY M E SODA

SE AG RAM ISL AND TI M E T IK I M UL E

Following the current obsession with flavoured spirits, Beefeater Blood Orange has landed in Canada. Serve this citrusy, tangy gin with ginger ale or tonic for a simple blood orange G&T, or get creative with your cocktail making. $30.45, lcbo.com

Collective Arts Artisanal Dry Gin has moved off our bar cart and into our picnic caddy in the form of this ready-to-drink gin and soda. The first release in their new line of cocktails-in-a-can sees lemon, grapefruit, lavender and thyme combine for a crisp, balanced sip. $2.95, lcbo.com

After the successful launch of Seagram Island Time Anytime last summer, Waterloo Brewing is at it again with a Caribbean remix of the classic Moscow Mule. This canned cocktail adds mango, passion fruit and coconut to the usual lime and ginger flavours. $12.95 for six, lcbo.com

D E E P SPAC E

R ISE 1G

The second release from Vancouverbased, non-alcoholic spirit brand Lumette, London Dry is everything we love about gin without the actual spirit itself. The zero-calorie, zero-alcohol drink was designed specifically for crafting cocktails, infused with flavourful botanicals like juniper, grapefruit and star anise. $32.45, enjoylumette.com

Size isn’t everything. Crammed into a tiny 222ml can, this deep-flavoured carbonated cannabis drink packs a punch with a potent 10mg of THC – the maximum amount allowed in any edible or beverage in Canada. With the fitting name of Deep Space, it promises a ride to buckle up for. Hang on to your hats. $9.20, ocs.ca

From Canadian kombucha company RISE comes a new line of even healthier drinks. Available in four fruity flavours, RISE 1g contains only a single gram of sugar and four calories per serving of raw, unpasteurised ‘booch. Antioxidants, probiotics and pH-balancing organic acids round out the health benefits. $3.99, risekombucha.com

Main image by Monica Carbonell

L UMET T E LONDO N DRY

APPLES OF OUR EYE

A P P L ES A ND PA IRS

709 Queen St E

Chef Colin Waite looks at what’s coming up on tap and creates feature dishes to match. All plates include a suggested cider – pair pasta Alfredo with a Vanilla Oak cider, or crispy fried chicken with Batch: 1904.

BOOZERS AND SHAKERS

Brickworks Ciderhouse is leading the cider revolution and it’s about bloody time, says resident Brit Katie Bridges.

M Photoagraph by Mill St. Brewery

Y FIRST SIP of Canadian cider (a sickly sweet nectar that shall remain nameless) was closer in DNA to Sour Puss Apple than the classic English cider I knew and loved – but thanks to a cider revival spearheaded by Brickworks Ciderhouse, things have come a long way. “Batch 1904 is our flagship dry UK-style – plain apple cider made from Ontario apples,” explains Emily Gillard, who as head cider maker at Brickworks is responsible for some of the innovative flavour profiles, ranging from rosé cider, with blueberries, raspberries and a touch of honey to seasonal sippers like blackberry earl grey and vanilla oak. Brickworks launched in 2013 when friends Adam Gerrits and Chris Noll began experimenting with their own small-batch brews in London, Ontario, naming the company after the rebuilding of Toronto

following the Great Fire of 1904. But it would take a while for Toronto to get its first cidery. “For the first five years, the guys tested new recipes on their family – not the best business model when you’re scaling up to ship to all of Ontario,” admits Gillard. Thus, Brickworks Ciderhouse, which opened in Leslieville in 2018, became ground zero for cider lovers who act as guinea pigs every time they try one of the revolving ciders on tap. Due to its urban setting, Brickworks doesn’t have its own farm – but their commitment to supporting Ontario includes “fostering” apple and pear trees over at Black Creek Farm in North York. “Basically the world is your oyster because you have something that’s as accepted as craft beer with more of a wine-like base,” Gillard says. “With cider, you can co-ferment fruit together and then add spices, or you can add herbs or barrel age and bottle.” f theciderhouse.ca

G R EAT O U T DO O RS With a beautiful patio upstairs, and part of Queen Street now acting as a patio for restaurants in the ‘hood, there are plenty of options for al fresco dining. Or grab a picnic-friendly pack with cans and meat and cheese from local stores.

FL IG HTS O F FA NCY The servers are super knowledgeable about what’s coming down the pipe. With up to 10 ciders on tap, a flight of four is the way to go. Get weird – the funky blackcurrant cider aged in a port barrel will knock your socks off.

— A FOODISM GUIDE —

THE SPIRIT OF JAMAICAN EXCELLENCE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

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Canada’s number one selling amber rum. But despite this rich history, Appleton Estate isn’t afraid to innovate. 2020 marks a big year for the heritage brand, and over the next few pages, we’ll take you through the story of where it’s been and where it’s going, and give you an insight into a rum that embodies the spirit of Jamaica. appletonestatecanada.ca

Main: Campari

EEP IN JAMAICA’S Nassau Valley lies the Appleton Estate, surrounded by deeply forested hills and fed by a natural limestone spring. Here, topography and climate come together in perfect harmony to make a unique spirit. Throw in 265 years of distilling experience using 100% copper stills, and it’s not surprising you’ve got the recipe for

PROMOTION T HE

STORY

RUM’S THE WORD From first steps to a world-leading brand: we distill the history of Appleton Estate Rum.

1670 Founder Francis Dickinson arrives in Jamaica and names the Appleton Estate after his hometown. Its location in the Nassau Valley is ideal for producing rum.

1871 The Appleton Estate was purchased by William Hill, after Francis Dickinson’s descendants decided to sell the Estate.

1916 The estate is sold to Cecil Lindo, who also buys J. Wray & Nephew Ltd, bringing them under one corporate roof.

1988 The first visitor centre opens at the Appleton Estate.

1749 According to records, the Estate produces its first distillation of legally recognized premium rum.

1900-1914 After several changes of ownership, the Estate and its 56 acres of sugarcane cultivation end up in the hands of James Miller Farquharson, who leads a massive expansion.

1970 J. Wray & Nephew Ltd. embark on an expansion program to modernise the distillery and its facilities.

1997 Joy Spence is appointed as the Estate’s Master Blender, the first woman to hold the title.

1999 Appleton Estate celebrates its 250th anniversary.

2012 Campari Group acquires J. Wray & Nephew Ltd., placing Appleton Estate in the Group’s global portfolio.

2018 The newly renovated Joy Spence Appleton Estate Rum Experience opens.

2020 Appleton Estate launches its new look and minimum aged rums, focusing on its central ethos of Joyful Excellence.

T H E

P ROC ES S

FROM CANE TO COCKTAIL

After 265 years of making premium rum, it’s safe to say Appleton Estate has the distilling process down to an art, watching over each and every step to make sure it meets their exacting standards – and it’s worth it.

TEP-BY-STEP, WE FOLLOW Appleton Estate’s extraordinary production process from cane to cocktail.

1. Harvesting and extraction The process begins with the harvest. Appleton Estate cultivates more than ten varieties of sugarcane, giving the rums a distinctive, complex flavour.

2. Creating molasses Appleton Estate dilutes its molasses with the natural limestone-filtered water from the spring on the estate. Filtering through natural limestone gives the water a sweet, soft taste.

3. Fermentation Appleton Estate then adds its proprietary strain of cultured non-GMO yeast, handed down from generation to generation, and allows the wash (a mixture of molasses and limestonefiltered water) to ferment.

4. Distillation The fermented molasses is distilled into raw spirit. Distillation is a true blend of art and science in which expertise and craft play as much a role as chemistry. Appleton Estate combines traditional copper pot still and modern column still distillation, and the unique shape of

APPLETON ESTATE DISTILLS ITS RUM USING LIMESTONEFILTERED WATER AND NON-GMO YEAST HANDED DOWN FOR GENERATIONS

PROMOTION

MASTER PLAN Joy Spence became the Estate’s Master Blender in 1997, and she’s taken the rum from strength to strength ever since.

the copper pot stills imparts the brand’s signature orange peel top note.

5. Rum marques

tropical climate. The barrels impart a complexity and depth of flavour. You can read more about this process overleaf.

Main: Campari; Barrels: C. Peter Ferguson

This term refers to the individual pot and column still rums created during the distillation process. These particular cuts are developed by, and are unique to, each rum producer, and each rum marque has its own flavour.

7. Blending

6. Tropical aging

8. Bottling

The rum is aged by marque in Number One American Oak Bourbon barrels, with each marque left to mature for different amounts of time in Jamaica’s

Appleton Estate filters its rums to keep them brilliant and pure for as long as they’re bottled. And most importantly, it never adds any flavours. ●

Appleton Estate’s rums are a labour of love and a true art. Every rum is blended by experts, and every barrel is personally selected by Master Blender Joy Spence and her team.

Joy Spence trained as a chemist before she became the world’s first female master blender when she took the reins at Appleton Estate in 1997 – so it’s safe to say she knows a thing or two about seriously good rum. Her work in the rum industry has been pioneering – Spence was instrumental in helping Jamaica gain geographical indication approval for its rum, which means that any rum claiming to be Jamaican must stick to strict production and quality standards, including a ban on the use of additives. In 2005, Spence was awarded the Order of Distinction of in the Rank of Officer by the Jamaican goverment for her services to the industry. She holds Appleton Estate to the highest standards, which is reflected in the popularity of the brand’s rums around the world. It’s not surprising that 2018 saw Appleton Estate named its new tour in her honour. The Joy Spence Appleton Estate Rum Experience guides visitors around the estate, teaching them about rum’s complexities. Joy Spence exemplifies the essential essence of Appleton Estate: Joyful Excellence.

JA M A I C A N

R U M

A DIFFERENT DRINK Jamaican rum is renowned for being rich, aromatic and flavourful, which is down to strict regulations and quality control. Here’s exactly what makes it so special.

AMAICA TAKES ITS rum very seriously, with strict rules about minimum aging to ensure all the rum in your bottle is at least as old as the age stated on the label – an initiative that was supported by Appleton Estate’s very own master blender Joy Spence. No additives can be added, preserving the rum’s purity of taste. The result is rum that’s known around the world for its flavour. Appleton Estate – the oldest rum

producer in Jamaica – takes even these regulations one step further futher, distilling using pot stills and Jamaican limestone-filtered water, and fermenting using non-GMO molasses and non-GMO natural yeast. The brand is fiercely commited to tropical barrel aging, which means the rum ages three times faster than spirits aged in cooler climates, without losing any of the flavour. What’s more, this year saw Appleton Estate release its new minimum age

variants. Unlike many other rum brands, if an Appleton Estate rum has an age statement on the bottle, then every drop of rum in the bottle has been aged for a minimum of the number of years indicated on the bottle. No matter which Appleton Estate rum you’re drinking, you can be sure it’s been crafted with love and expertise. For tasting notes of some of Appleton’s best rums and how to use them in cocktails, look the to right. ●

PROMOTION R EC I PES

HIGH SPIRITS SIGNATURE BLEND

12 YEAR OLD RARE CASKS

Crafted with Jamaican limestonefiltered water, with no added flavours. This is a blend of pot and column still rums aged for an average of four years. It has a fruit-forward expression with aromas and flavour notes of dried apricot, fresh peach and the subtle hint of rich, sweet molasses.

A true expression of Appleton Estate’s Master Blender’s passion and craft. The rums that make up this blend of rare and hand-selected pot and column still rums are crafted with Jamaican limestone-filtered water, with no added flavours, and have all been aged for a minimum of 12 years in the tropical climate of Jamaica.

JAMAICAN DAIQUIRI Ingredients

BLUE MOUNTAIN SERVE

◆ 2 oz Appleton Estate Signature

Ingredients

Blend ◆ 0.75 oz fresh lime juice ◆ 0.25 oz simple syrup (or demerara)

◆ 2.5 oz Appleton Estate

12YO Rare Casks

◆ 12 Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee

beans (and 3-4 for garnish)

Method Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice and shake well until well-chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a lime twist.

Method

8 YEAR OLD RESERVE Crafted by Joy Spence to commemorate Appleton Estate’s 250th anniversary, this is a blend of pot and column still rums, aged a minimum of 8 years in the tropical climate of Jamaica. It’s the brand’s most versatile expression, revealing aromas of spicy fruit and oak, followed by hints of honey, vanilla, holiday spice and our signature orange peel note.

Lightly muddle coffee beans (crack only, do not grind). Stir muddled beans with rum over ice. Strain rum into double old fashioned glass over one large ice cube. Garnish with 3-4 whole coffee beans.

MAI TAI Ingredients ◆ 1.5 oz Appleton Estate 8YO Reserve ◆ 0.5 oz fresh lime juice Photography: (Mai Tai) Gabi Porter

◆ 0.5 oz Grand Marnier ◆ 0.5 oz orgeat (almond) syrup ◆ 1 lime shell and fresh mint for garnish

Method Combine the ingredients in an ice-filled shaker (crushed and cubes). Shake until chilled. Pour into a double old fashioned glass. Garnish with lime and mint.

COCKTAIL HOUR We take a much needed vacation and trade lockdown for libations at Patois, a Caribbean-Asian sanctuary on Dundas West.

WORDS BY MEREDITH HARDIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH PFLUG

DOCTOR’S ORDERS ING R EDIENTS

• 1 ½ oz kumquat-infused Tito’s Vodka • ¾ oz Amontillado • ½ oz lime juice • 1 ½ oz mango nectar • ¾ oz turmeric honey syrup • ½ oz kefir yogurt • 4 drops scotch bonnet tincture • Chili strands and thai basil for garnish Add all liquid ingredients to a cocktail shaker with a small scoop of crushed ice. Shake for 10 seconds then pour into a glass. Top up with crushed ice. Garnish with chili strands and Thai basil.

ARM WEATHER IS fleeting in Canada – an ephemeral three months if we’re lucky. But there’s a place on Dundas Street West, just past Palmerston that keeps winter blues at bay. “It’s summer all year round,” beams Blaise Couturier, head bartender at Patois, whose enthusiasm about his work is as refreshing as the drinks. At Patois, Caribbean flavours meet Asian soul food all within one welcoming island hideaway that has gold pineapples painted on the cerulean blue exterior. “You can get away with doing bright, fruity drinks without being too Tiki, which can get a little bit cliché. A cocktail experience that takes you back to that holiday is what I’m aiming for,” says Couturier, who has come a long way, literally, from slinging beer at pubs back home in Melbourne. Like Caribbean sunshine, the drinks at Patois can brighten any day – you can see it on people’s faces when a “dangerously crushable” Party Pineapple greets the table. “We make a kola-flavoured syrup without the dark colour, so it’s bright and fresh like the ocean,” Couturier says of the Jamrock Iced Tea, a spin on the Long Island, ideal for humid days when sweat collects in places it shouldn’t. “I’m trying to build complex beverages and that you-just-blew-my-mind look is the best reward. There’s nothing wrong with a piña colada, but I tend to steer clear of those classic drinks because they don’t necessarily recreate the holiday. I’m trying to get more sensory.” A flavour punch of kaffir lime and Lucid Absinthe in Couturier’s Death in Paradise is sensory, alright. Patois’s cocktails are complex without losing their island feel, and like any good vacation, you won’t want it to end. f

Photograph by ###

Disclaimer: The cocktails at Patois include lots of housemade syrups which you can find detailed instructions for on Blaise’s website, blaisecouturier.com

PARTY PINEAPPLE INGREDIENTS

• 3 oz Cazadores Reposado Tequila • 3 oz Prosecco

• 2 oz pineapple juice • 1 oz lemon juice • 6 oz Pink Ting Pour all ingredients into a hollowed-out pineapple, stir, add ice and garnish with umbrellas and sparklers.

DEATH IN PARADISE INGREDIE N TS

• 1 ½ oz Bombay East Gin • ½ oz Green Chartreuse • 1 bar spoon Lucid Absinthe • ¾ oz soursop & kaffir lime syrup • ½ oz lime juice • 2 dashes Creole bitters • Mint and dehydrated lime for garnish For Soursop & Kaffir Lime: • 1 cup soursop juice • 1 cup white sugar • 5 fresh kaffir leaves Add ingredients to a blender and blend on high until sugar is dissolved. Pass through a fine strainer. To build cocktail: Fill ¾ of a highball glass with crushed ice, add all liquid ingredients except the bitters. Swizzle to dilute (a good 15 seconds until the glass is frosty), top with more crushed ice, then add 2 dashes of Creole bitters. Garnish with mint and dehydrated lime.

JAMROCK ICED TEA ING R EDIENTS

• ¾ oz Bacardi Gran Reserva Maestro • ¾ oz Bombay Sapphire • ¾ oz Cazadores Reposado • ¼ oz Blue Curaçao • ½ oz kola syrup • ½ oz lemon juice • Mint sprig for garnish Fill ¾ of a glass with crushed ice and pour in all liquid ingredients. Stir until glass is frosty and top with more crushed ice. Garnish with mint sprig and umbrella.

MEET THE NEWEST RUM IN OUR COLLECTION;

APPLETON ESTATE 8 YEAR OLD RESERVE. At Appleton Estate, the age statement signifies the youngest drop in that blend. Appleton Estate 8 Year Old Reserve aged in the tropical climate of Jamaica. Serving you a rum that is exquisite, elegant and complex.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT CANADAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NO. 1 SELLING AMBER RUM

IG: @APPLETONESTATECAN WWW.APPLETONESTATE.CA Please drink responsibly.

RU M 1 APPLETON ESTATE 8YO RESERVE: A new addition to the Appleton Estate portfolio, where every last drop is at least the age on the label. A smooth sipper ideal for cocktails. $38.30 2 RON ZACAPA CENTENARIO SISTEMA SOLERA 23: An awardwinning rum laden with notes of apricot, vanilla and cocoa and a long, clean finish. $79.95 3 BACARDI 4YO AÑEJO: Inspired by the Bacardi founder’s original recipe, this rum has aromas of honey, vanilla and oak spices. $29.95 4 FLOR DE CAÑA CENTENARIO 18 YO: A Nicaraguan rum aged for 18 years in white oak casks. Nutty and mellow with a long, lingering finish. $64.95 5 FORTRESS RUM: This multi-award-winning serve is smooth and structured with notes of fig, oak and tropical fruit. Works well alone over a cube of ice, or mixed in a longer drink. $49.95 6 SMITH & CROSS TRADITIONAL JAMAICA RUM: An intensely flavoured rum making a big splash in the spirit world. Bottled at 57 per cent, it’s navy strength, with a buttery palate and a smooth, creamy mouthfeel. $39.95

3 1

4 6

BOTTLE SERVICE

Rum to make you dream of tropical climes, ready-to-drink vodka sodas and aperitivo: here’s to late-summer sipping. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAILEE MANDEL ART DIRECTION BY BRIANNE COLLINS

Photograph by ###

VODK A SODAS 1 AQUARELLE: This sparkling vodka soda may have zero sugar and zero carbs, but there’s a whole lot of flavour in this tiny can. The mixed berry with hints of pomegranate is like fruit punch, but for grown ups. $2.70 2 MIKE’S HARD SPARKLING WATER: From the same company who gave us Mike’s Hard Lemonade and White Claw comes a sparkling vodka water that’s as light and refreshing as summer rain. $2.90 3 SOCIAL LITE: Park hangs are the new normal now, so pick up a can of this premium vodka soda for your next session. No sugar, sweetener or artificial ingredients – just lots of flavour and fun. $9.95 for four 4 PALM BAY ZERO: Quench your summertime thirst with this slightly tart, fresh-tasting beverage. The key lime cherry and blackberry lemon flavours will make you feel like you’re on a tropical vacation. $2.90 5 COTTAGE SPRINGS: Make any day as enjoyable as a cottage day with these delicious vodka sodas combined with subtle flavours of sweet, ripe summer fruits like Ontario peach and watermelon. $2.70

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A P ERIT IVO 1 NONINO QUINTESSENTIA AMARO: From northern Italy, Amaro (Italian for “bitter”) Nonino’s warming spices and bittersweet flavour make it wonderfully sippable served on its own, and a great introduction to the world of grappa-based spirits. $48.95 2 CAMPARI: The recipe for this classic aperitivo is one of Italy’s best kept secrets and the backbone of the classic Negroni. Add ice to bring out its notes of grapefruit, mild herbs, orange and lemon leaves, or serve with soda water and a generous wedge of pink grapefruit to make a fresh, spritzy Americano. $30 3 GALLIANO: Similar to sambuca, Galliano is an anise-flavoured liqueur, but its smooth vanilla taste and subtle woodsy characteristics make for a completely unique and delightful liqueur that’s far too good to be a party shot. $17.95 4 ROSSI D’ASIAGO LIMONCELLO: “Cin cin” to this sweet and viscous Italian liqueur, made from the zest of Sicilian lemons. Enjoy it chilled, like an alcohol-spiked lemonade, or add to prosecco for something a little bit more special. $23.10

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All available from LCBO.COM

100

Refreshing & Alcohol Free ERDINGER ALKOHOLFREI

AVAILABLE

in cans!

This non-alcoholic wheat beer (0.4% ABV) is a 100% isotonic beverage with a perfect balance of vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates to restore and rehydrate your body.

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IN GREDIE N TS • • • • • • •

2 oz Pimm’s No.1 1 oz lemonade syrup 2 slices cucumber, cut in half 1-2 strawberries, quartered 4-6 mint leaves 1 orange wedge 2 oz soda water to top

L EMON A DE SYRUP • • • •

100 ml water 100 ml lemon juice 100 g sugar 1 vanilla bean pod (or ¼ oz vanilla extract)

Lemonade Syrup Method Put all liquid ingredients in a pot on medium heat and stir until all sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and leave to cool. Pimm’s Cup Method Add all fruit and mint to a glass, then add the Pimm’s and mix with a spoon for a couple of seconds. Next add the syrup and some ice, then top off with club soda and mix to combine.

A Pimm’s Cup is usually made with the eponymous gin-based liqueur, ‘lemonade’ (what the Brits call lemon-lime soda), mint and a fruit medley.

Good Fortune Bar 130 Eglinton Ave. E Lower-Level.

Photograph by Sarah Pflug

COCKTAIL DECONSTRUCT

Packed with fresh fruit and mint, Graeme Moffat’s Pimm’s Cup at Good Fortune Bar is the ideal summer sipper.

James Pimm served his elixir in a mug known as a No. 1 Cup, but today it’s served in a highball glass or by the pitcher.

PIMM’S CUP It may be a rare discovery in Toronto, but across the pond, the sangria-like Pimm’s No. 1 Cup is the patio sipper of the summer. But the fruity concoction didn’t start out as a fun time favourite. James Pimm, the owner of an oyster bar who invented the drink between 1823 and 1840, served the tonic as an elixir to aid digestion. His Pimm’s Cup caught on and by 1859 it was being produced on a large scale and sold commercially. Now it holds the coveted status of the official drink of Wimbledon. Talk about a glow up. goodfortunebar.com

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— PART 4 —

EXCESS “DESIGN CHOICES ARE BOLDER THAN SOMEONE SLIDING INTO YOUR DM’S AFTER YOU REJECTED THEM ON A DATING APP.” STAYCATION, 110

106 INSIDER: CENTRAL OREGON | 110 STAYCATION: BISHA HOTEL | 111 DAY TRIPPER: ELORA 116 FOODISM’S FINEST | 118 THE SELECTOR | 122 DECONSTRUCT

INSIDER: CENTRAL OREGON Swerve the hipsters of Portland and make for Central Oregon instead, where you’ll find a brilliant beer scene that’ll take you from bar to spa, finds Mai Nguyen.

O REALLY EXPERIENCE Oregon, you have to get out of Portland. We know, we know: Portland is pretty cool, but even the locals will tell you there’s more to see outside their city. Central Oregon, for instance, is where urbanites go to escape it all. Only three hours away by car, this area is as photogenic as it gets, with more mountains, lakes, and high desert foliage than you could possibly snap in a week. And since it’s part of a volcanic region, you’re bound to see snow-capped peaks in the distance wherever you are. But there’s more to Central Oregon than the great outdoors: there’s great food, great craft beer and great coffee too, all of which can be found in the too-cool-for-school city of Bend, the Western-themed town of Sisters and the quaint community of Redmond. Even the water is delicious. Bend received a tasting award for its clean water, which

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explains why the beer scene is so big. Here you’ll find the state’s largest brewer, Deschutes Brewery, along with dozens more like Silver Moon Brewing and the Crux Fermentation Project. Of course, where there’s good beer, there’s good food. In Bend, you can enjoy a spicy fried chicken sandwich at Boxwood Kitchen, or go for even more vibrant flavours at Spork with dishes like lomo saltado and peanut tomato curry. Over in Sisters, pick up the beloved bread sticks at Sisters Bakery in flavours like jalapeño and cheddar bacon. When you’ve reached the limit of your stomach (and waistband), walk it off at the Smith Rock State Park, Oregon Desert Trail or Deschutes River Trail, all of which are guaranteed to give you memorable panoramic views. If you want more of a low-key stroll, roam inside the last Blockbuster store on the planet for a nostalgia hit. Once you’ve burned all those calories, simply rinse and repeat. f

GETTING THERE No direct flights are available from Pearson International Airport to Central Oregon, but you can easily find layovers that are less than an hour. The best option is to fly to Portland International Airport and rent a car. From there it’s a three-hour drive to Sisters and another 30 minutes to Bend.

SISTERS COFFEE COMPANY

Once you visit Sisters Coffee Company, you’ll start making breakfast your most important meal of the day. Founded in 1989 by the wife-and-husband team of Joy and Winfield Durham, whose three children now run the joint, this café is Sisters’ go-to for English muffin sandwiches, house-made granola bowls, artisan toasts and singleorigin coffee. It’s set in a luxurious log cabin with high ceilings and plenty of seating, so take your time drinking your foamy latte; you’re probably going to stay a while. sisterscoffee.com

RIFF COLD BREWED COFFEE TAPROOM

Photography: (main) Boone Rodriguez; (riff cold brewed) Nate Wyeth; (sisters) William Mantani

In Bend’s Box Factory, you’ll find some folks who take their cold-brewed coffee very seriously (tip: don’t call it iced coffee). Owned by Paul Evers, Riff Cold Brewed Coffee Taproom churns out a variety of cold-brewed coffees, as well as teas, craft beers, ciders, kombucha and coffee-based cocktails – the Cold Fashioned is an inventive riff on the whisky-based classic cocktail. Pair your drink with a selection of contemporary dishes that are so artfully displayed you’ll be tempted to take a photo. riffcoldbrewed.com

DESCHUTES BREWERY & PUBLIC HOUSE

If you’re thinking of having a multiple-rounds-of-beer kind of night, then you’ll need some hearty food. The Deschutes Brewery Public House in Bend has all the necessary pub fixtures – pizzas, burgers, sandwiches – as well as some fancier fare (hello, truffled mac and cheese). There are more than a dozen taps to choose from, including gluten-free varieties. If you can’t decide, the Black Butte Porter and Jubelale are good bets. Otherwise, be adventurous and build your own tasting tray with a bit of everything. deschutesbrewery.com

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BLACK BUTTE RANCH

Looking for a resort that’s got more to do than beaches and buffets? Black Butte Ranch, located 13 kilometres west of Sisters, is a former cattle ranch with stunning views of the Cascade Mountains. Fill your days with mountain biking, hiking, golfing, fishing and swimming in one of the six pools. Oh, and bring the kids and pets. Like the locals, this resort is extremely accommodating. blackbutteranch.com

DESCHUTES RIVER TRAIL Bend locals love to brag about all their natural wonders and to be honest, it checks out. Endless swathes of gorgeous forests are easily accessed from the city – the Deschutes River Trail starts near the Old Mill District shopping haven, so you can park your car and embark on a hike or bike ride along the river. If you’re there in the summer, you might see some people floating down the river on blow-up mattresses. visitbend.com

HOP IN THE SPA

WALL STREET SUITES

For those averse to living in cookie-cutter hotel rooms, consider staying at one of the cozy-chic apartments at Wall Street Suites. Don’t be fooled by the motel-like exterior; the suites are equipped with full-sized kitchens, walk-in stone showers, large flatscreen TVs and ample amounts of space. There’s no restaurant on site, but you’re within walking distance of downtown Bend and all of its independent shops and restaurants – or make a brewery pilgrimage on a complimentary cruiser bike. wallstreetsuitesbend.com

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If Portland’s motto is “Keep Portland Weird,” then Sisters should be “Keep Sisters Weirder.” This quaint little ranch town north of Bend features storefronts that look like they’re part of an Old West movie set. With that in mind, it makes sense that America’s first beer spa is located here. Mike Boyle co-founded Hop in the Spa after a car accident led him to discovering the medicinal powers of hops. Inside, you’ll find two cedar tubs filled with beer, fresh hops, essential oils and trace minerals for the strangest, most relaxing soak you’ll ever have. hopinthespa.com

Sunny & SAfe

Visit Now Relax more

#moretoexplore

visitmalta.com

80 Blue Jays Way Rooms: 96 Restaurants: 4

THE STAYCATION

Tall, dark and handsome: all the way from the cocktail bar to the marble bathrooms, Taylor Newlands finds the luxurious Bisha Hotel tops her list for a one-night affair. WHAT TO E AT

W HAT E L SE

From the moment you walk into the opulent black and gold lobby, the Bisha Hotel screams decadence. Throughout the hotel, you’ll find design choices bolder than someone sliding into your DMs after you ghosted them on a dating app. Rooms come in a dozen variations with different features like a private terrace, separate living room or accessibility options. Decked out in pop art and rich hues of navy and purple or black and rust, all the rooms include a Nespresso machine, floor to ceiling windows and a flat screen TV. Sleek marble bathrooms come with heated floors and Byredo amenities that have a scent so sultry it’ll make you swoon. And at 400 square feet, even the smallest room is larger than some Toronto condos.

Wake up with De Mello Palheta espresso and a house-baked pastry at Parisian café French Made, or pop by at lunch to grab one of their salads or sandwiches. Looking to luxuriate over a meal and soak up the atmosphere? KOST’s rooftop patio pairs Californian cuisine and West Coast vibes with spectacular sights. Set just off King West, right at the periphery of the downtown core, the hotel is removed from the overcrowded cluster of skyscrapers, allowing for sweeping views in every direction. For a dining experience that will knock your socks off, Michelin-Star chef Akira Back’s eponymous Japanese restaurant is a must-try. Maki rolls come decked out with delicate fish and secret sauces – there’s even one topped with foie gras.

After you’ve had your fill of Bisha’s expertly curated cuisine, the moody Mister C. cocktail bar is where you should settle in for a nightcap. High ceilings, crushed velvet furniture and an opulent gold and black marble fireplace make for one tall, dark and handsome bar lounge. If you’d rather leave the hotel grounds for your nightly entertainment, the Bisha Hotel is surrounded by King West’s hotbed of trendy restaurants and bars (and nightclubs, if they ever reopen) that you can easily walk to, and eventually stumble home from. The next morning, head to the 44th floor to cure your hangover with a dip in the crystalline infinity pool and a hearty, wholesome brunch at KOST. f Rooms from $299, bishahoteltoronto.com

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Photography: (restaurants) Maxime Bocken

W H AT’S T HE D RAW

DAY TRIPPER

Though Elora might be quaint, its restaurants are anything but. Taylor Newlands dines at La Fontana and finds food that rivals even the best Toronto establishments. I N A NUTSHELL I was skeptical that a quaint town like Elora could be home to a restaurant that holds up to the calibre we’re used to in Toronto, but boy does La Fontana deliver. Each dish tastes fresher than fresh – not surprising since they grow tomatoes, basil and other ingredients in a garden box right on the terrace. A heavy focus on all things local means you’ll find a menu of items unique to the area, like beer from Elora Brewing Company, and cheese from a local sheep farmer. Perched right on the bank of the Grand River, La Fontana pairs its seasonal fare with the soothing sights and sounds of gently flowing water.

W H AT’S ON T H E ME NU

Incredibly fresh and juicy, the tomato and burrata starter tastes like you’re biting into summer itself – you’ll want to mop up every drop of balsamic on the plate. Made from scratch, the Neapolitan-style pizzas are baked in a high-temperature wood-burning oven. The crust comes out delightfully crispy on the outside while still being soft, fluffy and, dare I say, moist on the inside. Toppings are so fresh that even the margherita, the humblest of pizzas, was a total knock-out. More elaborate pies are topped with duck confit and Brussels sprouts or prosciutto and Grana Padano. The pièce de resistance is the wild boar belly, cooked sous-vide for 24 hours, pan-seared, oven-roasted and served with gooseberry chutney for a sweet and salty flavour bomb.

La Fontana 15 E Mill St., Elora la-fontana.ca

W H Y I T’S WORTH THE TRIP

In Toronto, we’re used to having an abundance of great restaurants to choose from, but you won’t find anything like this in the city. Lounging on the terrace, fringed by lush greenery, sloping tree branches and a stretch of green grass, you’ll be as relaxed and as comfortable as if you were dining in your very well-off friend’s backyard – but with the added bonus of having attentive staff wait on you. I’d drive the hour-and-a-half just to eat at La Fontana again, but it’s easy to make a day of it, with the spectacular Elora Gorge nearby for swimming and hiking, and the charming town ready to explore. f

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— WINDSOR ESSEX —

SUNSHINE STATE OF MIND: ROSE CITY A FOODISM GUIDE

BIRDIE'S PERCH

GETTING THERE Re-route your GPS south to sunny Windsor & Essex county with its pristine waterfront, farm-fresh dining and EPIC

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wine region. Windsor Essex is just a three hour drive from the GTA, or you can skip the highway entirely and take VIA Rail which departs from Toronto’s Union Station multiple times daily.

PROMOTION

SUMMERTIME SIPPERS Whether you whet your whistle with whisky, rosé, craft beer or wine, Windsor Essex has something for everyone – cheers to that. ROSE CITY ALL DAY

IRON KETTLE BED & BREAKFAST

Pelee Island Winery’s Lola Blush Sparkling Rosé is an Ontario Wine Awards gold medal winner and first place in our hearts. With over 700 acres of vineyards, Pelee Island Winery is the largest private estate winery in Canada . You can also check out their Kingsville winery location for tours and tastings.

I LOVE BREW From microbreweries to hand crafted, small batch brews, craft beer is taking over. Check out Walkerville Brewery which operates in one of whiskey tycoon Hiram Walker’s original buildings. Their easy drinking 'Honest Lager' is honestly crushable.

WHISKY BUSINESS Windsor and whisky go hand-in-hand. Hiram Walker & Sons is the largest distillery in North America and produces iconic Canadian brands like this J.P. Wiser’s Old Fashioned which already has all the fixins' ready to drink. JACK'S GASTROPUB

BEACH PLEASE

Photography: (beach) Jake Mitchell;

Nothing beats a beach picnic, especially at Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery, Ontario's only beachfront winery. Tuck into a bottle of Lady in Red along the shores of Lake Erie. No need to pack a cooler, the wine comes with the place.

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SAVOUR SUMMER Forget cottage country – this summer we're going south to Windsor, Canada's southernmost city, for the ultimate city escape. With the country's warmest wine growing region and its very own homeslice, you better bring your appetite.

UST A THREE hour drive from the GTA, Windsor Essex is the ideal summer spot to relax after a long week of laggy zoom meetings and microwave meals. It’s an up-and-coming foodie destination, a fine wine weekend getaway and an outdoor oasis with plenty to keep your eyes and belly full. It’s no wonder the Essex Pelee Island Coast, with its abundant grape growing soil and long hours of sunshine, has acquired the EPIC nickname for its remarkable wine experiences. Trek along the same latitude as Northern California and Tuscany (did someone say wine o'clock?) to discover notable wineries like Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards and Pelee Island Winery. Then get off the beaten path and check out lesser

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known gems like Black Bear Farms in Kingsville. Whether you drive, bike or ferry to the vines, you'll be sure to work up a thirst on your grape escape. Windsor is the birthplace of Canadian whisky, so making alcohol is more than a trade, it’s tradition. Canadian Club, the whisky that started it all, was created by Detorit Business man Hiram Walker who first opened a Windsor distillery in 1858. Today Walker's legacy lives on in the new generations of craft breweries and distilleries all over town. You'll never run into the problem of drinking on an empty stomach with the abundance of farm-to-table dinning and artisanal makers. Cut into some stinkingly good Canadian made cheese

from the Cheese Bar in Lakeshore and never eat the same thing twice at Oxley Estate Winery where the menu changes based on what’s available at farmer's markets. Better yet, pick your own produce at Chappus Farms and the best berries ever from Raymont's Berries. If you need to mix in some water, go for a Cedar Beach dip or rent a paddle board at Lakeview Park West Beach At the end of a long day of eating and imbibing, tuck into your temporary home away from home – a wine barrel airbnb, perhaps? – and watch the sun slowly start to sink around 9 p.m. Make sure you catch it and raise a glass to a summer well spent. To start planning your trip, head to visitwindsoressex.com/staycation.

PROMOTION

THE LEADER OF THE PACK Wolfhead Distillery is the Alpha when it comes to a premium craft distillery. By incorporating local ingredients from Windsor Essex, they are able to create a truly one-of-a-kind, small batch vodka and whisky. Just like their spirits, their newly opened restaurant and sprawling patio have that same farm-to-table approach. The ground chuck burgers have amassed quite the pack following and their whisky isn't just for their grain-to-glass cocktails (hello, whisky smoked ribs). The perfect chaser? An ice cream and a waterfront stroll in the charming nearby town of Amherstburg.

VIA ITALIA We absolutely amore Windsor's Little Italy which lights up Erie Street with the delightful tastes and smells of Italia. Our trip wouldn't be complete without a visit to Mezzo Ristorante. We're still dreaming about their goat cheese bruschetta and rosemary and oregano marinated lamb with a wild mushroom and pancetta risotto. And that white truffle oil – bellissimo. Their newly opened patio overlooks the entire piazza – errr, street, where you can bear witness to all the vibrant, Nonna-aproved, carb-loving specialty shops, stores and cafes.

LIFE OF PIE In Windsor, pizza is life. It has its very own style similar to New York’s except the medium thick slices make the delicious toppings stick together for one glorious mouthful. Try iconic Windsor toppings like shredded pepperoni, canned mushrooms (it's a thing), oregano sauce and, of course, mozzarella cheese made by Galati Cheese Company. Some Windsorites have been known to freeze entire pizzas in case of an emergency shortage. For a slice of the OG, you can't miss Caboto Club or Arcata. For new takes on the classic, try Oven 360 and Armando's.

SHAWARMA ME UP This Middle Eastern snack has found a second home in Windsor – aka the shawarma capital of Canada – where Levantine bites abound. Beneath the warm pita, you’ll find expertly seasoned, tender, marinated meat like lamb, veal, or beef with fresh and pickled vegetables, tahini sauce and a whole lot of love. One of the best things (and there are many) about shawarma is that you can have it at any time of day. Our favourite spots for the slowroasted meat cones are Basha's Shawarma, Hamoudi's Shawarma and Shawarma Palace.

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FOODISM’S FINEST

We endeavour to sample tasty new products and attend events for noteworthy restaurants. Here are the bites and sips we can’t stop thinking about.

CHIPS AHOY!

Katie Bridges, Associate Editor I’ve long been a fan of Miss Vickie’s, but when I accepted an invite to (virtually) build a charcuterie board prominently featuring the potato chips, I’ll admit I was skeptical. Lo and behold, their Signatures range of fancy new flavours provided the perfect vehicle for an array of delicious big hitters that included gorgonzola, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, honeycomb and fresh sage. Chip sommelier, and host of Top Chef Canada, Eden Grinshpan was on hand to teach us tricks for adding depth and texture to our boards, while wine from Robert Mondavi allowed our, ahem, creativity to flourish. With new flavours like black truffle and parmesan, hickory smoked salt, and apple cider vinaigrette and shallots, these chips certainly earned their place.

NICE BUNS, HUN

Meredith Hardie, Editorial Assistant For me, burgers have always been an essential service. I nearly threw my phone in excitement when I saw on Instagram that smash-hit burger pop-up Burger Drops was introducing their bacon cheese burger in the west end for contactless pickup. Pre-order started in two minutes and I sprinted for my wallet. A few days later, on a sweltering hot Saturday afternoon, we walked to Henderson Brewery to collect our burger babies. I couldn’t maintain distance from my burger for long, so we quickly found a patch of grass and had an impromptu picnic. The griddled sweet onions, melted American cheese and Drop Sauce were everything. I don’t eat dairy, but some rules are meant to be broken.

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THE UPPER CRUST

Eunice Lee, Social Media & Editorial Intern When Oprah said “I love bread,” I felt that. There was a phase during quarantine where everyone seemed to be baking bread. Sourdough bread, banana bread – you name it. But the best bread I’ve had during this time was focaccia from O.G. Fine Foods. Imagine 12 inches of fluffy, rich bread, speckled with juicy blistered Roma tomatoes, black olives and aromatic oregano baked into the focaccia to bring out their flavours. It’s then drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled generously with flaky sea salt. The bread had a great bite and was light and pillowy on the inside. The best part: it was delivered straight to my door.

BACK TO AKIRA BACK

Taylor Newlands, Staff Writer

The moment outdoor dining was permitted again, restaurants scrambled to create any and every form of makeshift patio, and Akira Back was no exception. I thought construction-clogged Blue Jays Way would be a mood killer, but watching well-dressed King Westers walk the strip was a welcome respite from the inside of my apartment. Once the high-end Japanese restaurant’s thoughtfully crafted dishes arrived, everything else melted away. Maki rolls drizzled in ponzu aioli and chipotle sauce were bursting with flavour; tuna and mushroom pizza was delicate and crunchy; and wagyu short rib, sous-vide for 48 hours and served in a roasted garlic glaze, was the most tender piece of meat I’ve ever eaten.

PATIO PATROLLING

Krista Faist, CEO and Publisher

Like many people, when patios could reopen, I was concerned. Living just off King West (a.k.a. the epicentre for bars and clubs), I was wary that physical distancing wouldn’t be upheld. Within the first week I was proven right. One stroll down the block and the guilty establishments were obvious. Instead I set out to discover the places doing it the right way. A few doors down from the chaos is Labora’s new street patio. Tables are appropriately spaced, headcounts kept at a safe number and staff members trained meticulously on safety protocols. Over on Wellington, Bar Wellington and Marben followed suit. It’s not a perfect system, but it’s nice to be able to support my favourite restaurants in a safe and respectful way.

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FOODISMTO

THE SELECTOR

It’s time to travel with your tastebuds. This issue’s guides will take you all the way from the Deep South to Poland, all without setting foot outside the city.

OOD IS OFTEN the best part about travel – remember when we used to leave our homes for an extended period of time? Those were the days. Eating someone else’s food is a way to take in a piece of their culture and history. It may not be something that you can stick a postage stamp on, but sharing a meal abroad will leave a mark on you long after the food stain on your favourite shirt has faded.

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Since travel is off the table for a while, we’re taking you on a food tour of Toronto – but first, bubble tea. Originating from Taiwan, this sweet cold tea infused with milk or fruit extracts (and don’t forget those chewy tapioca balls) has rapidly popped up on the international drink scene and we spill the tea on where to find Toronto’s best. Then we explore the city’s soul food, Creole cuisine and Cajun cooking that has been

inspired by African-American food culture of the Deep South and given a Canadian touch. Finally, if you’re inspired to do your own cooking with flavours and ingredients from all over the world, head to one of the city’s international grocers. Who needs planes when the taste of the Caribbean islands or an entire kielbasa bar is just minutes away? This summer might be all about staying put, but staying curious never goes out of style. f

1. KH ORAK S U P ERMARKET What started as a 1,500-square-foot convenience store in 1989 has grown into a full-fledged grocer bringing both traditional and modern Iranian cuisine to Toronto. As soon as you enter this North

York staple, the smell of freshly baked sangak and barbari bread permeate the air. If you manage to drag yourself out of the bakery, the counter of prepared Persian meals will have you wanting to go grocery shopping every day of the week. khoraksupermarket.com

3. PE R OL A’S SU PE R M AR K ET This Kensington store has been the city’s go-to for Latinx flavours for more than half a century. Don’t miss the wall of brightly coloured salsas and buckets of chilli, which will keep you warm even in the coldest Canadian winters. @perolasupermarket

2. CARI BBEAN CO RNE R Small but mighty, this colourful shop in the heart of Kensington has big flavours and an even bigger heart. Since 1977, Caribbean Corner has brought the taste of the islands to the city. Boxes of

Jamaican scotch bonnet and Pickapeppa sauces line the storefront, and inside there’s everything from giant yams to salty banana chips. Shop while you sip on a whole coconut and when you’re done, they can remove its flesh for you.

4. STARSKY F OO D S From Eastern Europe to Etobicoke: if you love anything pickled, smoked or covered in chocolate, Starsky is the place to get it. Instead of just one counter, there’s an entire section of the store dedicated to sausages, cured meat and some of the finest butcher cuts. starskycanada.com

Photography: Meredith Photography: Hardie

GLOBAL GROCERY

These grocery shops are packed with far-flung flavours that’ll take your plate on a world tour.

5. PAT C E NT RAL PAT’s bright blue exterior has become a landmark in Toronto’s Little Korea. At this grocery store you’ll find a variety of Korean goods (along with some Japanese and Chinese items) like kimchi in bulk and oodles of noodles. For something sweet, pick up a box of fresh Kevin’s Taiyaki. patmart.ca

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DOUBLE BUBBLE

With bubble tea, you can have your drink and eat it, too – this Taiwanese export combines tea with tapioca. 1. O N EZO TAP I OCA If there’s one place we’d pick for bubble tea, it’s OneZo Tapioca – no pun intended. What sets OneZo apart from other tea shops is their freshly made-from-scratch tapioca, which is available in untraditional flavours like mango, black sesame,

purple yam and cactus. OneZo’s menu, at their North York and downtown locations, features flavours like orange passion green tea, made using fresh fruit; a brown sugar ‘dirty’ milk tea and summer favourites like the seasonal mojito series (sans alcohol). onezotapioca.com

3. T HE AL L EY If aesthetically pleasing drinks for the ‘gram are your thing, the Alley is up your, erm, alley. Their cult classic: the Deerioca Fever, a layer of warm brown sugar tapioca, balanced with milk. For fruit teas rivalling summer sunsets, try Morning Dawn – mango crushed ice and jasmine green tea. the-alley.ca

4. C HAT IM E

2. G O NG C H A “Gong cha” is a phrase from ancient China: an act of giving the highest quality tea to the Emperor. Gong Cha’s focus is on their brewed tea, using earthy blends like oolong, green or black tea. Tea aside, they specialize

in milk-based flavours like the crème brûlée strawberry latte or the winter melon milk foam – a thick layer of creamy frothed milk to compliment the rich flavour of tea and natural sweetness from winter melon. gong-cha.ca

There isn’t a time when we’ll say no to Chatime. Their innovative bubble tea flavours range from rare finds like Thai milk tea and Golden Blossom – grapefruit juice with chrysanthemum tea jelly – to regulars including matcha sea salt crema, mango green tea, and Chatime milk tea. chatime.com

5. C OC O F R E SH T E A & J UIC E When bubble tea cravings hit, Coco is one of our go-tos. Coco has options a-plenty with flavours like grapefruit Yakult and sago taro milk tea. If you’re looking for all drink and all bite, the Bubble GaGa has passion fruit tea, coconut jelly and tapioca. cocofreshtea.ca

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1. KI N G RUST I C King Rustic is equal parts laid-backhomey and let’s-get-loose-on-the-houseinfused-cinnamon-apple-bourbon. With from-scratch dishes passed down for generations, this King Street spot feels like you’re at a friend’s place for a meal.

The sweet potato waffles’n’fried chicken is a sure-fire winner, while the lasagna is the La-Z-Boy recliner of comfort food. Tuck into beef and pork sausage ragu layered between sheets of pasta and a three-cheese creamy béchamel centre and never leave. kingrustic.ca

3. T HE STOC KYA R D S SM OK E HOUSE & L AR DE R This St. Clair West smokehouse has been greasing up fingers and winning the hearts of fried chicken lovers since 2009. Don’t miss the Yardie fried chicken sandwich with scotch bonnet watermelon sauce. thestockyards.co

2. ROUX Named after the mixture of cooked fat and flour, this Junction joint is the ideal marriage of lively and relaxing. Chef Derrick Markland incorporates his own twists on food rooted in contemporary Creole cuisine. The Roux burger is

available for brunch or dinner, so no judgement if you go twice in one day and get it both times. Sides range from hearty collard greens to cornbread and buttermilk biscuits. For the best picnic ever, order the ‘smoke it all box’ to go. rouxstir.ca

4. UPPE R B E ACH ES B OU R B ON HOU S E The plates come out fast at this Cajunstyle quick-service restaurant, but the utmost care goes into each item, from jambalaya to baked cheese grits. You’ll also find Canadian takes on Cajun-style bites like the Cajun Bayou Poutine. upperbeachesbourbonhouse.com

Photography: (Onezo) Allan Yu; (The Stockyards) Lucas Photography: Richarz

SOUTHERN COMFORT

Inspired by African-American culture, soul food, Creole cuisine and Cajun cooking get a Northside touch.

5. T HE DIRT Y B I R D C HIC K E N + WAF F L ES We’re in a serious relationship with the Dirty Bird’s gluten-free fried chicken served on crispy-yet-fluffy waffle pillows. The Big Dirty squeezes a quarter leg of chicken with hothouse tomatoes and aioli between two Belgian waffles – who needs bread? thedirtybird.ca

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SALATIM PLATTER: Meaning ‘salad,’ salatim is a blanket term for the dips and spreads served at the start of most meals in Israel. Marinated olives, caraway cabbage slaw, garlic fried Ontario grape tomatoes with chili, and pickled veggies fill out Fat Pasha’s spread.

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GARLIC LABNEH: This tangy Middle Eastern yoghurt, served with za’atar and olive oil, is another Fat Pasha classic.

DUKKA: This Egyptian condiment consists of hazelnuts, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, walnuts, cumin, cardamom and lots of olive oil.

HUMMUS: Fat Pasha takes their dip one step further, serving hummus with braised chickpeas, chili jazz tahini and smoked chipotle.

Fat Pasha 414 Dupont St.

Photography: Hector Vasquez

Salatim, the cold dishes served in Israeli cuisine, aren’t just an appetizer – they’re part of the fabric of society. We break down what goes into Fat Pasha’s colourful platter.

BABA GHANOUSH: This Levantine appetizer is served with fried eggplant and a parsley salsa verde on top.

MEET THE REAL AUSTRALIA

Foodism - 23 - The International Issue

Articles inside

Back To Basics

Bottle Service

SHOW ME THE HONEY

PIVOT! PIVOT!

Weapons of Choice