THE DENIM PROJET
ABOUT THE PROJECT
The project aims to take the students through a journey of the dazzling blue fabric through the world of indigo which in other term is called denim. To enhance the knowledge of the most versatile and sought after fabric that has a twill weave and warp dyed in indigo.. The students will be guided through the comprehensive processes and stages of denim, from the basic understanding of its raw material cotton, from the history of cotton to the stages of spinning, dying and weaving and finally arriving at the finished garment. The students will explore Industrial denim & selvedge denim, they will research the history, cultural importance and its influence on fashion trends. The project sets the context for the students to explore the brands in the market that expertise in denim and denim product, understand the usage and the characteristics. The significance of denim in the social environment, work environment and as leisure, The cultural influence it had on the generations from movies to catwalks. They will interact with denim experts who will guide and help them understand the fabric and its components. Which will give them the opportunity to get the in-depth knowledge about denim, product ranges, recyclability and sustainability. The effort is to build a strong connect with the industry with denim as the premise during the project, classroom interaction through guest lectures and group mentoring.
THE JOURNEY OF THE COTTON
COTTON
Cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant .Today it is the most used textile fiber in the world and India is the largest produer of the cotton.It is a soft, staple fiber that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India, and China .
CONDITIONS REQUIRED FOR GROWIG COTTON PLANTS
Cotton is grown in subtropical and tropical regions ,needs a warm climate. Summer temperatures of 21°C to 27°C, and abundant sunshine is necessary during the growth of the plant. Moderate to light rainfall(50 -80 cm) is adequate for cotton cultivation.l
These are the areas where cotton are produced 1) India 2) China 3) United States of America 4) Pakistan 5) Brazil 6) Australia
Cotton can be grown on a variety of soils but the black cotton soil of the Deccan Plateau which has the ability to retain moisture is most suitable. It also grows well in alluvial soils It is planted in spring ,grows over summer and picked in autumn season. Each cotton plants grows around 1.2 meter and each bale of cotton weight 227 kg.
STAGES OF COTTON FROM SEED TO FIBER
Cotton is shown in early spring. Its plants are about 1 to 2 metre in height. Cotton plant takes 60 days in flowering. Cotton flower turns into fruit. Fruits of cotton are spherical in shape. Cotton fruits have lemon type shape and size. Cotton fruits are called Cotton Bolls.
TYPES OF COTTON
Gossypium Hirsutum UPLAND COTTON Characterized by its relatively short cotton fibers, Upland is perfect for producing quality everyday products that everyone can afford. It’s also the most common type of cotton , making up 95% of the cotton planted on American soil. For the purest Upland cotton, choose HomeGrown Cotton.
Gossypium Barbadense PIMA COTTON Pima is considered the finest cotton on earth. As an extra-long staple cotton, its long fibers make it extra soft and extra strong. The result? Luxuriously smooth fabric that is resistant to fraying, tearing, pilling, wrinkling, and fading. In recent test revealed 89% aren't pure at all. Only PimaCott verifies its fabrics contain pure pima cotton, for quality you can see, feel, and trust.
Gossypium Barbadense EGYPTIAN COTTON Like pima cotton, Egyptian is an extra-long staple cotton, making it equally exceptional in softness, vibrancy, and performance. They even share a scientific name! The only difference between the two? Egyptian cotton is grown in the hot, dry climate of the Nile River Valley in Egypt.
Gossypium Hirsutum ACALA COTTON Only California produces a special variety of cotton called San Joaquin Valley Acala, which is among the highest quality Upland cottons in the world. Acala cotton benefits from the ideal climate of the San Joaquin Valley and a longer growing season, which increases yield and results in a finer product. However, due to irrigation requirements, Acala tends to be more expensive than other American-grown Upland cottons.
India grows all the four species of cotton .Gossypium hirsutum represents 90% of the hybrid cotton production in India and all of them are Bt cotton . In India, majority of the cotton production comes from nine major cotton growing state and they were grouped into three diverse agro-ecological zones, :i) Northern Zone Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan ii) Central Zone - Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh iii) Southern Zone Telangana, Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka.
BT COTTON .
BACILLUS THURINGINESIS is a gentically modified cotton crop that has one and two genes of a soil bacterium inserted into the seed of the cotton .
The first transgenic plant was developed in 1983 in tobacco (Fraley 1983) in U.S.A. In cotton, the first transgenic plant was developed in 1987 in U.S.A. by Monsanto, Delta and Pine companies (Benedict and Altman, 2001).Later on, the research work on development of transgenic was intensified all over the globeand several transgenic plants were developed. The transgenic cotton is of two types viz. (1) bollgaurd and (2) roundup ready cotton.
BT COTTON IN INDIA
In India , the first BT cotton was officially introduced in 2002 . Following the introduction of BT cotton there are rapid adoption of this tecnology by farmers , in 2003-04 india become third largest producer and seventh largest exporter of the cotton in the world ,covering an area of 3.8 million hector in 2006-07 to 10 million hector in 2009-10 . During 2006-08 , families who adopted BT cotton spent 18% more money than conventinal farming households ,suggesting an increase in liviing standerd . In 2015 -16 India have overtaken china as the biggest cotton producer in the world.
Seeds are more expensive than local ,non GM seeds Seeds can not be reused and farmers need to buy new stock for every growing season.This along with licnsing agrement with local companoes . Diffusion of illegal Bt hybrids that hadn't been cleared for biosafety standards, leading to fears of environmental toxicity.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BT COTTON AND ORGANIC COTTON ORDANIC COTTON
BT COTTON
-1 grow without the uses of pestisides and insecticides and other ahrmul chemicals
-1 grows with the useges of pesticides and other harmfull chemicals
-2 use non GM seed and farmers can reuse it
-2 use genetically modified seed and farmers need to buy again , they cant be reuse
-3 more softer and comfortable than bt cotton
-3 less softer and comfortable than ordanic cotton and some times alergic to sensetive skin
-4 fabric are more expensive
-4 less expensive ,made in bulg
5 all the process done by hand .
-6 build strong soil through crops rotation , retained water more efficently to increase organic matter in the soil
-5 all the process done by machine , but in India only plugging done by hand -6 loss of soil fertility due to the predominently mono -crop culture , required intensive irrigation
FAIRTRADE COTTON
Fairtrade- certified cotton farmers get a garranteed price for their crop .The price never fall below the amout it costs them to grow the cotton , which means they can plan to improve the lives of their families and developed their commounity . There is no difference in quality between fairtrade and non fairtrade cotton. But the real difference is that the person at the very bottom of the texlie supply chain who grows the cotton phas been paid a fair price for their crop .
Fairtrade cotton is produced without using most harmfull pesticides , child labour or forced labour . It gives worker in cotton field fairer wages and working cndition . In 2004 , fairtrade come to India .
FIBER TO FABRIC
Ginning of cotton is traditionally done manually. These days, machine is used for Ginning. Machine which is used in combing of cotton is called Ginning Machine.
Combing The carded sliver is further combed to remove short fibers and dust that could not be removed in the carding process. Fibers are then arranged parallel to obtain uniform combed sliver. This process is essential to manufacture uniform, high-quality yarn.
Spinning The process of making yarn from fibre is called spinning. Steps in making cotton yarn The raw cotton is loosened and cleaned; to remove straw and dried leaves. The cleaned cotton is then fed into a machine. The cotton fibre are combed, straightened and converted into a rope like structure called sliver. The sliver of cotton fibre is converted into yarn by spinning using machines.
Weaving The process of arranging two sets of yarn together to make a fabric is called weaving. The big reels of yarn are called bobbins. These bobbins are used for weaving the cloth. Cloth is woven on looms. After that they bleached and dyed to give a finish.
Types of weaves in denim
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft drawn through and inserted over-and-under the warp .A single thread of the weft crossing the warp is called a pick. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end or end
NATURAL DYE
Natural dyes are obtained from natural sources. Most are of plant origin and extracted from roots, wood, bark, berries, lichens, leaves, flowers, nuts, and seeds. Others come from insects, shellfish, and mineral compounds. Natural dyes were the only source of color for textiles, leather, basketry, and other materials until synthetic dyes were developed in the latter half of the nineteenth century. Of the thousands of natural color substances, very few became significant commercially.
VAT DYE
The word vat means, ‘Vessel’. The dyes take their name from vatting. The vat dyes are naturally coloring materials from the ancient time and kept into wooden vat and make soluble in vat by the process of fermentation- so it is called vat dyes. They can’t be used directly & requires vatting. They are insoluble in water but become soluble from by vatting process. The process of converting insoluble vat dye by strong reducing agent in called vatting process. The vat dyes are to be divided into several groups (a) Indigo, including both natural and Synthetic (b) Thio-indigo dyes, containing sulphur. (c) Indigo derivatives, such as the brom-indigos; usually not derived directly from indigo itself, but built up synthetically. (d) Anthraquinone derivatives, including the various Indanthrene, Marione, Algol dyes, some Helindone, and others. (e) Carbazol derivatives, of which Hydron Blue is the chief representative
INDIGO
Indigo plant is a species of plant from the bean family. Scientific name is Indigofera tinctoria also called true indigo. The indigo plant was one of the very original sources of indigo color dye. This plant is a good source of organic dyes and small amounts are used to dye silk and wool. The primary use is as a dye for cotton yarn. Cotton yarn is mainly used for the production for blue jeans of denim fabric . This dye is commercially used to dye those jeans and on average one pair of blue jeans need 3-12 grams of indigo. The first known use of indigo as a dye/color name in English was in 1289. The indigo color is named after the indigo dye taken from the plant Indigofera tinctoria and other related species. Indigo dye come from the leaves of the plant. To make your indigo dye vat, strip the leaves from the stems and squash them into a container. From the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria most of the natural indigo dye for sale comes. This tender plant grows best in the tropics; if soil is fertile it can thrive in hot and humid places. It is commercially grown in India, El Salvador, Vietnam and some other countries and now Pakistan is also initiating its planta
DENIM
Denim is a durable cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. It is typically used to make jeans, overalls, and other clothing. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans". The term "Denim" has originated from the city of Nimes in France where "serge de Nimes" was manufactured. Denim is made from a vat dye, the Indigo dye, which is applied to cotton fabric in loosely held form in layers. As far as manufacturing process of denim is concerned, it is similar to fabric up to the process of weaving with the only difference that in case of Denim Fabric, it is dyed at the stage of sizing . To make stretch denim, need to add a synthetic elastomer to the yarn in the spinning process, and get the best result with ring spinning. Denim Fabrics woven of 100% cotton would be very strong and durable. Traditionally Blue Denim is warp faced cotton fabric with 3 x 1 twill construction with warp being dyed in a solid colour and weft left un-dyed.
Why Denim Fades To get the dyestuff onto the yarn or the fabric, it’s solubilised in water. When the yarn or fabric is pulled out of the dyeing vat, the oxidation process binds the colour to the fibres of the yarn.But the colour doesn’t reach the core of the yarn, and the dyestuff only binds externally. This gives what’s known as a ring dye effect. And that’s what makes jeans fade. As the dye slowly wears and washes off, the undyed core appears. Cotton plays an important role in denim because its raw material is cotton.
COTTON COUNT Ne (Number English) or cotton count is another measure of linear density. It is the number of hanks (840 yd or 770 m) of skein material that weigh 1 pound (0.45 kg). Under this system, the higher the number, the finer the yarn.
ALTER EGO
YES ! This is me ,there are so many factors why i m like this , because i am born and brought up in a conservative middle class family where I was not allowed to do certain things what I wanted to do such as solo trips , could not go alone after 7 ,girl should behave and dress up in a certain manner .
KEYWORDS CONFIDENT QUIRKY SPONTANEOUS NATURE LOVER CAREFREE
reference https://in.pinterest.com/pin/435864070186319453/
PERSONALITY NAME AGE GENDER
TRAITS
AHANA 22 (years) FEMALE
College student and also a Travel Blogger . Ahana is an alter ego of Srishti who is confident , carefree , experimental , quirky and nature lover , basically a better version of myself . She does have flaws but she accepts her mistakes and does not get afraid to admit it . She has strong opinions and she doesn't change it for the sake of external factors . She is carefree , does not care about the society norms , accepts herself the way she is . She just wants to enjoy each and every moment of her life. She believes in hardwork and doing things that makes her happy , does not think about the result . She is nature lover and loves to travel . She is also quirky like she wants to travel space by car and many more.
reference https://in.pinterest.com/pin/445645325632065085/
MOOD BOARD
INSPIRATION BOARD
ARTISTIC EXPRESSION
FRAYED SEAM
COLOUR BOARD
An analogus colour pallet . In this colour pallet the main focous on the shades of denim and also few warm colours to add a punk in a designs .
IDEATION
FINAL RANGE
REFLECTION
The journey of cotton starts from fibre to yarn and then to fabric. In this project , we came to know that cotton plays an important role for denim fabric . Yes, this soft ,fluffy cotton can also make such a durable fabric "denim" with some chemicals and the pattern of weaving and the process of dying . While researching about the brand , I came to know the journey of the denim. It was only used by the factory workers then it came into street fashion , high fashion and then couture. Citizen of humanity is also a premium luxury denim brand and its founder is "Jerome Dahan" . He is one of the person who made the luxury denims successfully . While developing alter ego , it is important to know yourself first "who you are" . I really found problems in knowing myself because I never sat alone and thought of myself . After realising and observing myself, I kind of did not like myself . So, I put all the things who I am and what I want to become through my mind map and hence, made my alter ego as a better version of myself . I do not want my alter ego perfect . I want that she does have flaws and bad habits but she accepts her mistakes and learn from it . While developing designs i kept the client ' s personality and the selected techniques and silhouettes in the mind and , these silhouettes should convey the client ' s personality and express her better .