Star Nursery's Summer Green Pages 2021 by Star Nursery

GREEN pages Summer 2021

Palm Trees

iner Gardening nta Co

& Succul s u t ent c Ca

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DECORATIVE ROCK & HARDSCAPES • Pavers • Flagstone • Wall Block • Stepping Stones • River Rock • Boulders • Bulk Soil • Bulk Sand

•Create a Maintainable and Drought Tolerant Landscape •Use Flagstone for a Beautiful and Unique Walkway

Decorative Rock Yards Nevada

Arizona

Utah

Las Vegas

Kingman

Dixie

2600 West Ann Rd. (702) 216-STAR (7827)

4140 Stockton Hill Road (928) 757-STAR (7827)

1335 South Dixie Dr. (435) 414-5893

5380 Blue Diamond Rd. (702) 382-ROCK (7625)

Fort Mohave

8725 South Eastern Ave. (702) 251-ROCK (7625)

6325 Hwy 95 (928) 788-STAR (7827)

Pahrump

Lake Havasu

911 Buol Rd. (775) 727-5300

1141 N. Lake Havasu Ave. (928) 505-ROCK (7625)

St. George 1145 West Sunset Blvd. (435) 688-STAR (7827)

DELIVERY SERVICE AVAILABLE

Our Staff Mackenzie Vesp

Editor-in-Chief Art/Design

Contributing Writers

Lesson In Landscape Irrigation

Doug Ryan Taylor White Paul Noe (Dr. Q) Joey Lynn Watt Mackenzie Vesp Christine MacRae Glenda Bona

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Employee Spotlight

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Protecting Your Trees

Cactus & Succulents

ATHLETICS

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Maximizing Warm Season Vegetables Palm Trees

Community Partners

RODEO

Summer Gardening Calendar

Store Spotlight

1 application protects against insects for 1 year

Mix & Pour at base of tree/shrub

• • • •

TRUSTED SINCE 1926®

Ornamental trees Fruit trees Roses & flowers Shrubs

Garden Centers Las Vegas, NV Ann Road & Simmons 2600 W. Ann Rd. North Las Vegas, NV 89031 (702) 216-STAR (7827) West Cheyenne & Tenaya 7330 W. Cheyenne Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89129 (702) 253-STAR (7827) W. Charleston Blvd. & Cimarron 8170 W. Charleston Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89117 (702) 360-STAR (7827) W. Tropicana & Fort Apache 9480 W. Tropicana Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89147 (702) 278-STAR (7827) Boulder Hwy. & E. Tropicana 5340 Boulder Highway Las Vegas, NV 89122 (702) 435-STAR (7827) S. Eastern & Pebble 8725 S. Eastern Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89123 (702) 333-STAR (7827) Blue Diamond & Lindell 5380 Blue Diamond Rd. Las Vegas, NV 89139 (702) 444-STAR (7827)

Pahrump, NV Buol Rd. & Hwy. 372 911 Buol Rd. Pahrump, NV 89048 (775) 727-5300

Star Nursery has been privately owned and operated for 36 years. We are proud to be the premier garden center for all your landscaping needs. Currently, we operate in Southern Nevada, Southern Utah and Northern Arizona with a total of 16 Garden Centers and 9 Decorative Rock Yards. We cater to both residential and commercial clientele. Star Nursery offers the best in garden supplies. From a large assortment of trees to shrubbery, drought tolerant plants, succulents and houseplants, we have landscape material to suit anyone’s lifestyle. We offer the largest and most complete line of products that include irrigation supplies, gardening accessories, yard tools, succulents, houseplants, pottery and our very own exclusive line of Dr. Q’s Garden Products. This line of products consists of soils and fertilizers that are specifically formulated to help you succeed with your gardening efforts in the Southwest Region. We also carry a selection of hardscape products ranging from flagstone and pavers to decorative rock and bulk soils. Find everything you need to maintain a beautiful landscape or garden space. We pride ourselves in giving our customers the right price and best advice.

Star Nursery -Your Garden’s Partner for Every Bloomin’ Thing Since 1983.

Lake Havasu, AZ Lake Havasu Ave. & College Dr. 1141 N. Lake Havasu Ave. Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403 (928) 505-ROCK (7625)

Kingman, AZ Stockton Hill Rd. & Gordon Dr. 4140 Stockton Hill Rd. Kingman, AZ 86409 (928) 757-STAR (7827)

Fort Mohave, AZ Hwy. 95 & Boundary Cone Rd. 6325 Hwy. 95 Fort Mohave, AZ 86426 (928) 788-STAR (7827)

Mesquite, NV

Bullhead City, AZ

Commerce Cir. & Pioneer 549 Commerce Cir. Mesquite, NV 89027 (702) 613-4770

Mohave Dr. & Miracle Mile 1579 Mohave Dr. Bullhead City, AZ 86442 (928) 758-STAR (7827)

St. George, UT Sunset Blvd. & Bluff St. 1145 W. Sunset Blvd. St. George, UT 84770 (435) 688-STAR (7827) Dixie Dr. & Gubler Ln. 1335 S. Dixie Dr. St. George, UT 84770 (435) 674-STAR (7827)

Washington, UT Telegraph Rd. & 500 W. 385 W. Telegraph Rd. Washington, UT 84780 (435) 986-0820

SUMMER

GARDEN CALENDAR

JUNE • Mulch: This is the time to replenish mulch layers in the garden, to cool the soil, suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. Cedar mulch can help keep insects away from your herbs and vegetables without the use of any pesticide. Dr. Q’s PAYDIRT™ is a premium grade, fully composted garden mulch. A good mulch layer is about two to three inches thick. Keep mulch away from the stems of flowers to avoid stem rot and the trunks of woody plants to avoid crown or root rot. And don’t forget to mulch your vegetables. This will help to reduce evaporation and keep the soil cool and moist. • Thinning Trees: If you did not prune your trees earlier and you are concerned that they may be damaged by summer winds or they inhibit access to parts of your yard, you can thin out your desert type trees that have grown too thick. Acacias, Mesquites, Olives, Sumacs and other evergreens can benefit from selective thinning of crossing and drooping branches. Do not perform heading cuts during the hot summer season, as this encourages new growth which is too stressful in the heat. • Weed Control: Using a pre-emergent like Knock Out Weed and Grass Killer can help deter the growth of new weeds. These products generally last for about four months. As February would have been a good time to do something about your spring weeds, now is a good time to begin the battle against summer weeds. • Burnt Leaves: Evidence of leaf burn is death in the middle of the leaf. This occurs when there is not enough water within the plant for moisture to evaporate, therefor the leaf overheats then burns. Lack of water, too much water (soil that is lacking sufficient oxygen), wind and heat can all cause leaf burn. • Grub Treatment: Whether you applied your first treatment for grubs in March or not, June is another active month for egg laying and growth. Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer is a granular that is carefully spread at the base of susceptible or known to be infected plants. Read label carefully for all safety and application instructions. • Plant Sunflower Seeds: June is a great month to plant sunflowers. They have 90-110 days to harvest making them perfect additions to any fall decorations!

JULY • Watering: Avoid the temptation to drown your plants just because it’s hot outside! Our clay soils hold water for a long time. If you use a drip system, make sure you water no more than every other day (unless you have sandy, rapid draining soil). Remember that deep, infrequent watering will help build strong roots and help keep weeds down. • Pest Control: Spider mites are the main summer pest of roses in the Southwest. If you are dealing with pests as well as nutrition issues, try BioAdvanced Rose and Flower Care. This product will deal with insects, disease and safely fertilize your plants all at once. Treat squash bugs with Sevin® Dust. Avoid top watering of vegetables to reduce the chance for disease. • Plant summer vegetable seeds. Now is a great time to plant seeds for corn, beans and squash plants. It’s a good time to plant tomato seeds for a fall crop. Plant now and have luscious garden produce all fall long. If you are planting in a full sun area, consider using a shade clothe with 50% UV protection, to prevent the hot afternoon sun from burning tiny leaves. • Deep Soaking Pines & Ash Trees: Browning and dropping of needles from deep within the branches is normal for pines, especially in the summer. Laying a soaker hose in a spiral shape around the base of the trees, extending just outside the drip line and soaking for an hour will help reduce the late summer stress on these beautiful trees. Besides deep soaking of pines, adding a soaking to ash trees will help them stay hydrated to ward off sooty canker, a fungus called Hendersonula Toruloides, that causes wilting and death to branches. Now would also be an ideal time to clean out the inside branches of Pines, Cypress, Junipers and Arborvitaes. Attach a high-powered spray nozzle to a hose and spray out all the dead needles within the canopy. This will help prevent spider mites from establishing webbing in the branches. An untreated spider mite infestation allows the mite to suck on the needles, stunting the plants growth and eventually killing the tree.

AUGUST • Harvest Produce: If you have squash or tomatoes in your garden, keep on top of the harvest. Failure to pick early will give you woody, overgrown squash and mushy tomatoes. Keep your eye on this month’s apples, pears, grapes, peaches and figs. Continue to harvest zucchini, tomatoes and other prolific summer vegetables. • Prune Dormant Tomato Plants: Cut them down to one foot tall. They will eventually branch out and start producing fruit once temperatures drop below 90 degrees. • Maintain Roses: Roses are going through their roughest time; don’t worry, they’ll come back in the fall. For now, you can make their life easier by keeping faded flowers cut, providing them with a cooling mulch layer and giving them a mild fertilizer like Dr. Q’s Rose & Flower Food. • Watch Lawn Weeds: Keep an eye on broadleaf lawn weeds, removing them by hand or with a broadleaf weed killer. Preventative maintenance is a key point. If allowed to set seed, they will cause trouble for years to come. • Powdery Mildew: It is a very common fungus that infects all types of landscape plants. The fungal spores grow on the outside of the leaf, looking like a white or gray “powder.” It is important to treat powdery mildew early to prevent it from spreading to other plants. Use a copper or sulfur fungicide and repeat treatment every 10-14 days.

Lesson in Landscape Irrigation

No doubt everyone will have some kind of irrigation questions throughout the summer. Let’s take a quick quiz to test your knowledge of how plants respond to water and see how prepared you are for all seasons. 1) Can you over water a tree or shrub in the desert southwest? Answer: Yes, one misconception people have is since the desert southwest is so hot and dry it is impossible to over water. The truth is you definitely can over water and more trees and shrubs die because of it. Watering too much is bad for plants because too much water prevents the roots from receiving the necessary oxygen needed to transport nutrients to the rest of the plant. 2) Does it matter what kind of plants are in your landscape and how you water them? Answer: Yes, different types of plants have different depths and widths of root zones which include the fine feeder roots necessary for a healthy plant. These “root zones” need to be wet completely each time you water. As you can imagine, trees will have the largest root zones, approximately three feet deep. Shrubs are next, theirs are around two feet deep. Cacti, groundcovers, and annual flowers will have the smallest root zones, up to 12 inches depending on the plant. The key to guaranteeing you water enough is by giving enough time for the water to penetrate the soil deep enough to reach the lower roots and enough emitters to cover the width of the roots, especially as the plants grow. 3) Is it possible to have trees, cactus, shrubs, and flowers efficiently watered? Answer: Yes, I know, you are probably getting overwhelmed but not to worry, here is an easy “general” recommendation that you can follow.

HOW MUCH SHOULD YOU WATER YOUR SHRUBS and TREES This chart will use a “one gallon per hour” drip as example to determine minutes.

Typical Watering Amount

Winter

Spring-Fall

Summer

Bedding Plants and Vegetables

30 minutes

45 minutes

Trees (1 emitter* per sq. yd.**)

2 hours

Shrubs (1 emitter* per foot in size***)

1 hour

Desert Plants (1 emitter* 2 foot size)

1 hour

* With all your trees, shrubs, and desert plants larger than one foot in height, you should have a minimum of two drips on each plant. This makes certain that you have adequate coverage around the root system, and not just on one side. ** “per sq. yd.” refers to the area beneath the trees’ canopy. A tree with a canopy that spread 10 ft. in width would have approximately 9 sq. yd. root area. Check with our Nursery Advisors if you need help calculating. *** “per foot in size” refers to the height or width of a shrub, whichever is greater.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU WATER YOUR SHRUBS and TREES? These are only general recommendations – Conditions may differ for individual landscapes.

Typical Watering Frequency

Winter

Spring-Fall Twice per week

Summer

Bedding Plants and Vegetables

Once per week

Three times per week

Trees

Twice per month Once per week

Twice per week

Shrubs

Once per week

Twice per week

Three times per week

Desert Plants (1 emitter* 2 foot size)

Once per month

Twice per month

Once per week

Above recommendations do follow Southern Nevada Water Authority guidelines. visit www.SNWA.com. to find your watering group and dates for seasonal watering restrictions

4) Does the type or condition of the soil play a role in setting your irrigation schedule? Answer: Yes, soil texture might be the most important factor to consider. The makeup of the soil could vary from clay, silt, and sand, or a combination of all three, in any giving area of the yard. Knowing the difference will be key to proper irrigation. Clay has the smallest particle size. It is extremely fine. This means the pore space between each grain is so small that water remains in the pore space, resulting in poor drainage. Slower output from the emitter could be helpful to ensure the soil absorbs the water. Sand has the largest particle size. Therefore, sand has the largest pore space between each grain of sand, so water will drain the quickest. Watering more frequently may be necessary to prevent the soil from drying out too much between watering. Silt is in between clay and sand, and although it might seem logical for it to be the perfect texture, it is not. The ideal soil profile is a mix between the three textures, referred to as “loam,” which has equal amount of water retention and oxygen. Regardless of whether you have a fruit tree orchard, vegetable garden, drought tolerant desert shrubs, shade trees or evergreens, the goal of irrigation is to provide an environment conducive to root growth. Once the balance between organic matter, minerals, water, and oxygen have been established, the fine absorbing root hairs will grow. These roots will be proficient at taking up water and minerals, supplying them to the rest of the plant, resulting in a vigorously growing plant. As the plant grows, it is necessary to provide additional water by expanding and adding irrigation to the roots system. Moisture meters are wonderful tools to measure the amount of moisture in the soil. If you do not have a moisture meter, it is possible to gage if there is adequate soil moisture by hand. Simply grab a handful of soil from approximately 4-6 inches deep, close to the plant’s drip line. (The drip line is an imaginary line directly under the branch spread of a plant, where should it rain, the raindrops would fall from the outermost branches and creating a drip line on top of the soil) Once you have a handful, give it a squeeze. If water releases between your fingers or the sample is muddy, the soil is too wet. If you open your hand and the sample falls apart, the soil is too dry. If you release your grip and the soil keeps the shape of your hand, your soil’s moisture level is adequate. Another easy way to gage, is to observe the “wetting patterns” on the ground. Below the plant’s canopy, should be even wetting pattern extending, at minimum, to the edge of the plants drip line. And don’t forget, we make house calls, email us at HouseCalls@StarNursery.com or visit any Star Nursery location to make an appointment.

Maximizing

Warm-Season Vegetable Garden Production Whether you are a brand-new gardener, or a seasoned expert, we all seek out tips and tricks to try to overcome the worst effects of the desert summer heat on our warm-season vegetable gardens. Soil: Starting with properly amended soil is the most important factor in ensuring a good crop. Desert soil has some beneficial properties, but most traditional vegetables grown in gardens require additions of well-composted organic matter in order to drain properly and give roots room and nutrients to grow. A simple soil-texture test is to moisten the soil you’re planting in and squeeze some in your hand. If it is sticky or slick, it needs more compost mixed in. If it crumbles and falls apart, it needs more native soil. If it just holds nicely together, you’re on the right track. “Nevada Soils: Worth The Toil” (Hefner, M., Skelly, J., and Donaldson, S. 2009l, Extension | University of Nevada, Reno, FS-09-14) is a go-to guide to understand how soils work here in Nevada and how to maximize the soil you have. Warm-Season List: It’s important to know which vegetables will grow outdoors in warm weather. Beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, peanuts, peppers, pumpkin, squash (both summer & winter) sweet potatoes, tomatoes (which do not ‘set fruit’ over 95F degrees) and watermelon comprise the commonly-grown Warm-Season list here. Generally, these need 70F daytime and 50F nighttime temperatures to be planted out and by June’s 100F days, sweet corn, bush beans, and summer squash are about the only seeds willing to sprout. There is a Warm Season Vegetables Planting Guide available from University of Nevada, Reno-Southern Area Extension and also in Star Note #205. Varieties of Vegetable Plants: Did you know that there are determinate and indeterminate tomatoes? “Growing Tomatoes in Southern Nevada” (Roberts, A. 1999, Extension, University of Nevada Reno, SP-99-11) and “Common Tomato Disorders Under Desert Conditions” (Mills, L., and Johnson, W. 1988, Extension, University of Nevada Reno, FS-88-60) are two excellent reference guides to growing tomatoes from the experts. Did you also know that there are certain varieties of beans, corn and squash that have been proven to grow well in the desert, and can be grown together? “Planning for the Growing Season” (Hanson Mazet, W., 2012, Extension, University of Nevada

Reno) tells the story of The Three Sisters, a centuries-old proven companion planting method. The varieties you choose will make a big difference in your garden’s success. A research-based list of proven varieties has been compiled over many years of seed-trials by Master Gardeners in Clark County, NV and is available to the public. Contact the Master Gardener Helpline to obtain a copy. Shade: Where you locate your garden will also have a deciding impact on your vegetable garden’s success. The east or northeast side of your house is a better location than the south or west, in the summertime. How many hours in the sun does it receive? Is it morning, noon, afternoon or late day sun? All plants need some sun, (morning sun is best in summer) and most will need dappled shade through the worst heat of the day. Through research trials at extension gardens, it was found that 30% shade cloth is beneficial to protect vegetables from damaging mid- and late-day sun. Large containers on casters on a patio allow you to move your garden as needed, to provide sun or shade to optimize your plants’ yield. Water: Plants that dry out repeatedly will not survive the summer. Plan for timed regular irrigation BEFORE you plant. Star has all the timers, valves, tubing, bubblers, drippers, connectors and tools to create the irrigation system your garden will need to thrive. Star Notes #905, #910, and #915 give good advice on irrigation systems. How often and how much will increase with the heat, but beware of overwatering, too. (We’ve all experienced the split-skin of tomatoes that got too much water after they started to ripen.) Be sure to check your locale’s Water Authority regulation guide to ensure you’re following best wateruse practices within the laws.

Fertilizer: If your soil was well-prepared before planting, you may not need to add much fertilizer. If your plants appear to be struggling in spite of getting adequate water, they might need nutrients. Star Nursery carries a full line of organic and all-purpose plant food. Understand that N-Nitrogen helps leafy plants grow. P-Phosphorus and K-Potassium help fruits and roots grow. More, is not always better. You can burn plants with too much fertilizer applied at the wrong time. Star Notes #600 explains fertilizer basics. Mulch/Compost: Spreading 3 to 4 inches of compost/mulch around your plants on top of the soil can help keep the soil cooler and reduce evaporation, thereby conserving water, as you’ll have to irrigate less. Keep the mulch back several inches from the stem of the plant to prevent crown/stem rot. “Mulching for Healthier Plants” Star Notes #620 outlines the process. Beware using dark-brown bark mulch that may have been dyed with walnut shells around plants, though. I learned the hard way that walnut has an allelopathic effect: it kills anything near it, to protect and maximize the tree’s resources. We don’t have Walnut trees here in the desert, but using dark Walnut-brown mulch is better for pathways where you don’t want anything to grow, as it will kill your plants. (Also, the dark color holds heat!) Good rich organic compost makes a much better mulch and will continuously feed your plants while keeping the roots cooler. Pests and Diseases: The bane of a garden’s existence everywhere are pests and diseases. Keeping plants healthy in the first place will help them resist attacks by pests and inhibit development of diseases. Star Nursery carries ladybugs to combat Aphids. Using careful observation to Manage Insect Pests in the Landscape (Hefner, M. 2019, Tips for Managing Insect Pests in the Landscape, Extension | University of Nevada, Reno. IP.) you will keep your yields higher and possibly enjoy a bumper crop in the fall. Please be careful about using methods that will harm beneficial pollinators such as Leaf cutter bees and precious honeybees. Don’t delay in diagnosing “What’s wrong with my plant?”, though. Some issues can spread and decimate a garden, while others are just signs of heat stress and will happen no matter what we do. One tip from Master Gardeners in Las Vegas to avoid the worst of the squash bugs, is to wait to plant Squash, Melons and Cucumbers (cucurbits) until after June 15th. By that time, it’s too hot for squash bugs (hopefully) but vines still have time to grow and produce through summer.

For help with garden issues, ask your local friendly Star Nursery associate, and remember, Dr. Q makes house calls. You may also call the Extension office in your area: Southern Nye County-Pahrump, NV: 775-727-5532 press 2 Clark County, NV Master Gardener Helpline: 702-257-5556 Mesquite and Logandale, NV: 702-397-2604 Laughlin, NV: 702-299-1333 (also serving Bullhead City & Ft. Mohave, AZ) St. George, UT: (Hurricane) 435-634-5706 Kingman, AZ: 928-753-3788 Peach Springs, AZ: 928-916-4245 By Heather Freeman Master Gardener Coordinator University of Nevada, Reno-Extension Southern Nye County-Pahrump, 1651 E. Calvada Blvd. Pahrump, NV 89048

Palm Trees

Palms have long been a favorite for residential and commercial landscaping. The main reason is that these trees differ from most other trees in that they store water inside their trunks and stems, like cactus and succulent varieties. Therefore, they can go for long periods with little or no water. They can be planted throughout the year but establish more quickly during our warm season. The optimum time for planting and transplanting palms is April through September. Palms will tolerate a wide variety of conditions but establish and grow much better in amended welldrained soil. The root system of palm trees is very dense and compact, so they should not be planted close to walls, patios, driveways, or sidewalks. Depending on the variety, they should be planted no closer than four to ten feet from any structure.

Once established, most palms will tolerate drought, but thrive and grow faster with regular, deep watering. Remember to cut back the watering frequency in winter when the soil is cold, and palms are not growing actively. Their heavy growing season is in the hot summer months, so this is when they should be fertilized, unlike the rest of your landscape plants. A special palm tree food should be used that contains slow-release nitrogen, magnesium, and manganese. Summer is also the best time to prune palms. Remove palm fronds only when they have turned completely yellow or brown. Any fronds that are green are producing food for the new growth, so if you cut off too many green fronds, you are cutting off the food supply for new growth. Do not prune palms in late fall or winter! The old fronds give the crown additional protection from cold weather.

There are several popular varieties of palms that are successfully grown in our area. Here are a few examples that you may be familiar with: Mexican Fan Palm (Washingtonia robusta). This graceful southwest native is perhaps the most frequently planted palms in Southern Nevada. It is a slender-trunked, rapidly growing palm with bright green, fan-like foliage.

California Fan Palm (Washingtonia filifera). Native to California and Arizona, this palm has a wider, heavier trunk than the Mexican Fan. It is one of the most cold hardy palms grown here. Canary Island Date Palm (Phoenix canariensis). This large, graceful palm grows slowly and develops a pineapple-shaped base. Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera). Much taller, slenderer, and more open than its Canary Island relative with stiffer, gray-green foliage. Pigmy Date Palm (Phoenix roebelenii). Interesting, fine-leafed variety makes an excellent potted palm for house or patio. Can be planted in a very sheltered area that is protected from direct afternoon sun and freezing temperatures. Mediterranean Fan Palm (Chamaerops humilis). A tough, a slow-growing palm that is ideally suited for all landscape areas, large and small. It reaches a height of 12-15 feet with a crown of six feet or more. It naturally produces many trunks and left untrimmed resembles a large “palm bush.” Mexican Blue Fan Palm (Brahea armata). Beautiful accent palm has waxy, silvery-blue fronds that retain their color until parallel with the trunk. Pindo Palm (Butia capitata). A graceful, hardy palm with feathery, strongly arching, gray green leaves. Develops a heavy, strong patterned trunk which is attractive when frond stems are trimmed to the same length. Windmill Palm (Trachycarpus fortunei). This palm is extremely well suited for Southern Nevada landscapes. Named for stiff, windmill-shaped fronds, it is compact, handsome and makes an excellent accent, screen, or container subject. Some of these palms are not as cold hardy as the others, so if you live in colder areas of the southwest, you may want to do more research on the ones you are interested in. For more detailed information, check out our StarNote #400.

Protecting Your Trees

Shade trees are one of the most important parts of any landscape. They are usually a focal point that draws your eye to the property. They offer shade for your home. As well as for other plants in your yard and can be a wind break or a privacy screen. Because they are such an important part of your yard, and the fact that they become even more valuable to your property as they get older, you need to protect them throughout their lifetime. This protection can start with young trees when they are planted. Make sure to get them a good healthy start by digging a large hole and amending the soil with a good amount of organic matter and a starter fertilizer. Also, make sure they are staked properly so they do not get blown over or broken by our high winds. Proper pruning after the first year is also important to encourage a nice even canopy development. Just as important is making sure to set up the irrigation so that it allows for deeper and less infrequent watering than your smaller plants. One of the most important things to do for young trees is often not done, even by professional landscapers! If trees like Flowering Plum, Ash, Privets, Chinese Pistache, Australian Bottle Tree, Japanese Blueberry, Carolina Cherry, or any other thin barked trees are planted facing south or west, they need to have their exposed trunks and branches protected from sunburn damage. Sunburn damage is the number one cause of long-term insect and disease problems on trees. Sunburning kills the outer bark and the underlying soft tissue layer that carries the water and nutrients up and down the tree. When this happens, it weakens the overall health of the tree and gives the opportunity for insects and diseases to enter the tree. The most common of these problems

are the Borer Beetle and Sooty Canker disease. This damage can be prevented by using tree trunk paint or wrap to keep the bark from burning. Another way to protect deciduous trees (that lose all their leaves in the winter), is to use dormant sprays on them in the winter months. There are two sprays that should be used on dormant trees every year. They are Horticulture Oil, that kills overwintering insects and their eggs, and Copper Fungicide, kills Fungus Spores that may be waiting for the warmer weather to spread their disease. Spray the entire tree and the soil around the base of the tree for the best protection. Evergreen trees as well as deciduous trees can also be protected from chewing and sucking insects using a systemic insecticide that is absorbed into the vascular system of the tree and should kill any insects that feed on it. (These systemics are not recommended for edible plants or fruits.) Just remember, insects and diseases generally attack weak or stressed plants and trees. So, for the best protection, be sure to keep your trees healthy and strong!

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Cactus & Succulent Container Gardening: Indoors and Outdoors

Did you know that all cacti are succulents but not all succulents are considered cacti? The species within the Cactacae family are vast and unique. Cactus and succulents thrive in warm and dry air, which we have plenty of here in the southwest desert! If you are wanting to add greenery to your indoor space but lack the time or patience for the moderate to high watering needs of traditional houseplants, cactus and succulents might just be the perfect fit for you. Whether you curate your own colorful and unique cactus and succulent arrangement or have a solitary specimen, many can be enjoyed both indoors and out. When it comes to maintaining cactus and succulents indoors, they should be placed in an area where they get plenty of sunlight. While some require more than others, at least four hours of bright sunlight is a great place to start. A sunny south or southeast facing area where they can get plenty of sun is recommended. Artificial lights do help but are not a replacement for natural light. Watering can be tricky when it comes to cactus and succulents. It is important to remember that just because they can go quite a while without water, it doesn’t mean they should. Determining a good watering schedule can vary depending on the type of cactus or succulent. Care instructions for a specific species can be found either on the nursery pot or through some light internet research. However, there are a few guidelines that can be applied to all. A good rule of thumb is that during the growing season (spring-fall), they should be watered at least every 7-10 days or when the soil has slightly dried out. To ensure thorough watering, be sure to completely saturate the soil and allow the excess water to drain from the bottom of the pot. Too much water, which many novice cactus and succulent growers are unintentionally guilty of, may lead to stunted growth or root rot. Too little water will lead to shriveling. If you decide to place your container outside, the water requirement will most likely increase as the moisture will evaporate more quickly. Be sure to check your plant regularly in the early phases of transitioning outdoors to adjust watering as needed. During the cooler months, water requirements are reduced as the plant enters its resting period. During this time, you will only water when the soil has completely dried out. Another key component to maintaining healthy plants is to use the appropriate substrate. Dr. Q’s Filthy Rich Succulent & Cactus Mix is a blend of perlite, pumice, softwood bark and compost, all of which make for great soil structure and adequate drainage. This mix has been specially developed for container growing in our southwestern desert climate. To prevent shock and give your new plant a healthy start, we also recommend watering in Dr. Q’s Plant Tonic prior to repotting.

SNWA SUMMER WATERING RESTRICTIONS

• Mandatory summer watering restrictions prohibit watering between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. through Aug. 31. • You may water up to six days a week in summer, but your landscape may not need that much water. Never water on Sundays. • Increase your watering slowly. You may find your yard does fine with fewer days – which will reduce your water bill. Landscape watering comprises up to 90 percent of your water bill in the summer. • Remember, drip and sprinkler irrigation are different. • For grass, run your sprinklers in 3 short cycles (about 4 minutes long) spaced one-hour apart. • Plants and trees need less water, less often. Run your drip irrigation in one cycle on fewer days. Each cycle should run for 20 to 90 minutes – depending upon how quickly your drip emitters release water. - Run your drip irrigation for 30 to 90 minutes for low-flow emitters, and - 20 to 40 minutes for high-stream emitters. You can find more watering tips and information about the mandatory watering restrictions at SNWA.com.

N Available O W In Stores

Professional Bird Control Products Since 1992

Inc.

Available at all Star Nursery locations!

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AFTER

One stop shop for residential bird control! Humane and effective products that work! Protect your fruits and vegetables from pest birds! Keep pest birds away and the diseases they carry! R

Stainless Steel Spike

Hawk Decoy

DON’T WATER ON SUNDAY, OR PAY FOR IT. Avoid fines. No watering Sundays or between 11 AM - 7 PM.

SUMMER watering restrictions are in effect. It’s the law. – a friendly reminder, Ryan Reaves style –

For watering tips, visit snwa.com Southern Nevada Water Authority is a not-for-profit water agency

Strawberry Mint Julep

Summer is upon us which means the days are long and warm. What better way to put your garden to work than to whip up something fun and refreshing? Cool down with this fresh-from-your-garden spin on an old-time favorite cocktail. Ingredients: • 1 oz simple syrup • 2 oz bourbon • 3 strawberries, quartered and hulled • 1.5 teaspoons fresh lemon juice • 7-10 fresh mint leaves • crushed ice • Garnish: lemon wedge, mint leaves, strawberries

Instructions You’ll want to start by making your simple syrup. Combine one cup water with one cup of sugar in a saucepan, over medium heat. Whisk together until sugar completely dissolves. Remove from heat and allow to cool. *After making your cocktails, you can put the remaining simple syrup in your hummingbird feeders. Next, add the strawberries, mint, lemon juice and simple syrup to your cocktail glass and muddle it all together. Add crushed ice and finally, your bourbon. There are endless choices when choosing the perfect bourbon, we chose one with notes of citrus and honey and the result was delicious!

Dr. Q Does House Calls “Stop by your local Star Nursery Garden Center to schedule an appointment... Or email housecalls@starnursey.com.”

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h Joseph Rivela is an Outside Salesperson at the Star Nursery location on Eastern Ave. He is 1 of 10 certified Nurseryman in the state of Nevada and has grown tremendously in his 20+ years working for Star Nursery. He is everyone’s go-to guy when it comes to horticulture. When he first moved here from the “concrete jungle,” also know as New York City, he had no knowledge of horticulture but loved being outdoors. Today he spends most of his time outside, camping, exploring new places and taking in all that mother nature has to offer. He has found that Star Nursery has helped in making lifelong friends and lasting relationships. The most enjoyable part about what he does is helping customers be creative in their yards. Joe is an exceptional team member and we are thankful for his willingness to spread his knowledge to both staff members and customers.

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Nicholas Huff is the Pottery Merchandiser for all the Star Nursery locations. Nick has always been interested in the environment and learning more about the growing process. He spent his 4 high school years studying environmental science and has continued his education at UNLV. He began his career at Star Nursery in high school as a carry out. He spent a large portion of his time doing landscape design and found much joy in seeing his designs come to life and the customer satisfied. He is constantly learning and preparing himself for his next move within the company. As the Pottery Merchandiser, he is constantly visiting the stores and helping them improve the aesthetics of the inventory on the patio. When Nick isn’t working, he is perusing his passion of film and writing scripts. Star is lucky to have Nick mold new positions within the company and mentor as many people as he can along the way.

Rowan Thompson is a Floor Supervisor at our Cheyenne location. Originally from Manchester, England, Rowan loves the warmer weather here in the states, but misses the beautiful greenery and gardens that thrive in England’s rainy climate. Throughout his life, he has lived in many places working in high end men’s retail shops. Some to name are Berlin, Northern Italy, Spain, and Bermuda. His career selling men’s suits led him to Washington DC. He worked 10 years on the east coast before he made the move to beautiful, sunny, Las Vegas! When he began his career at Star Nursery, he had no prior horticulture experience, but learned quickly and loves the working environment. His favorite part about working for Star is having great coworkers and helpful managers. During his time with the company, he has developed a new appreciation for plants, trees, and shrubs. Rowan is extremely hardworking and always willing to go above and beyond for his team members and customers.

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STORE SPOTLIGHT Blue Diamond Blvd. 5380 Blue Diamond Road Las Vegas, NV 89139

The Star Nursery located on Blue Diamond Blvd, is one of the youngest locations in the Las Vegas Valley. Right after the Ann Road store was built, Star Nursery saw similar growth and development was occurring in the southwest part of the valley. A new master planned community known as Mountains Edge was to begin construction in the coming years. At the time, the only store servicing the south side of the Las Vegas Valley, was the Eastern Location. It was crucial that another store was built to better service customers in the burgeoning neighborhoods. Star Nursery decided to act quickly and build the Blue Diamond location in 2004. At the time of construction, there wasn’t much on Blue Diamond past the Silverton Casino. It took time but over the last 17 years the area has expanded exponentially and now has an established store equipped to service all the gardening and landscape needs of the community. Blue Diamond boasts an impressive sized yard, capable of carrying a wide variety of trees and shrubs in numerous sizes. The inside of the store is one of the larger Las Vegas stores, giving the ability to carry our full line of products with plenty of inventory to ensure you can always find what you’re looking for. It also is one of three stores in the Vegas Valley with a rock yard attached, making it possible to shop for everything under one roof.

Josh, the new General Manager, just celebrated his 5-year anniversary with us. Josh’s interest in science and growing up around nurseries in his home state, Maryland, is what initially drew him to joining the Star Nursery family. When asked what he enjoyed most about managing the Blue Diamond location, he responded, “The Blue Diamond store is going to grow dramatically in terms of its retail with the southwest continuing to expand and bring more families in. It’s exciting to be a part of that growth and to be the face of that store. More growth equals more employees, which equals better customer service.” We are so excited to have Josh as an integral part of our team and look forward to many more years of providing great service to the southwest part of the valley.