PHOTO BY JAKOB KOUNKEL
A crop sprouts at the Brown Family Farm July 9 in Oak Park. While it is going to be some time before the crop is ready to be picked, Ben and Jodi check on it regularly.
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Sauk Rapids Herald | Saturday, July 17, 2021
By University of Minnesota Extension A Minnesota tradition returns this year as 81 families from throughout Minnesota are being honored in person as 2021 Farm Families of the Year by the University of Minnesota. The farm families will be recognized in ceremonies beginning at 1:15 p.m. Aug. 5 at the annual Minnesota Farmfest on the Gilfillan Estate near Redwood Falls. The event is in the Wick Buildings Farmfest Center on the estate grounds. The program will include remarks by University of Minnesota President Joan Gabel. The families were chosen, one per county, by local University of Minnesota Extension committees based on their demonstrated commitment to enhancing and supporting agriculture and their communities. “The University of Minnesota takes pride in honoring these families,” said Bev Durgan, Extension dean. “The farm families receiving this year’s honors exemplify what makes Minnesota agriculture strong. They bring innovation, science and hard work to farming. They care greatly about the land and animals and delivering quality products to consumers worldwide.”
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The Brown family – Karli, 7, Jodi, William, 8, and Ben holding Kelsi, 5 – walk through a field in Zimmerman. They have since moved to Oak Park, farming on 12 acres. BY JAKOB KOUNKEL STAFF WRITER
OAK PARK – Tilling 12 acres of land on their farm in Oak Park, the Brown family cultivates over 100 varieties of crops for 450 families through community supported agriculture, a somewhat new and emerging style of farming. They moved to Oak Park in April 2020 and started planting two days later. Through CSA, the Brown Family Farm sells shares of their harvest to families in exchange for a box of diverse, locally cultivated fruits, vegetables and herbs. Families that purchase a share receive a box per week for 16 weeks between mid-June and early October.
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Having been in the CSA business for nine years, Ben and Jodi established a balance between work in the soil and the office. Ben assesses the land and de“There are different termines what it needs while Jodi takes of the administrative and office duscenarios every year care ties, though she spends most of her days in the fields, but the packing and delivering shares. They both have a determination to members are what succeed through a more personal style matter.” of farming. “You don’t just walk into this busi- Jodi Brown ness and have it ready and waiting for The green thumb of the operation, you,” Jodi said. “We started with 18 Ben Brown, has a degree in horticulture CSA members, and some of those folks from Central Lakes College in Brain- are still with us, too.” erd, where he met his wife and self-proclaimed black thumb of the operation, Jodi Brown, who has a degree in natural Brown family page 2B resources. Features a 1/2” thick High Density Solid Poly Floor and 3/4” thick Solid Poly sides for easy cleaning and minimal freeze up. Box flares and side panel retainers are made of SAE 304 Stainless Steel that resists rust and corrosion. This box is built to last!
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Brown family from page 1B For Ben and Jodi, the road to get where they are now did not come easy, other than their commitment to stay on track. The Brown Family Farm is first-generation, which means they inherited no equipment, land or capital already established for farm purpos- e s ; everything they have, they earned through long days and hard labor. “We didn’t have any equipment, seeding trays or even a tractor, but we made it work,” Jodi said. The Browns endured years of pennypinching and manual labor with small victories along the way. In their beginning years, Jodi said they farmed on 10 acres of land scattered between Elk River, Big Lake and Zimmerman. It was less than ideal having to travel between towns to work on their land, but to the Browns, it was worth it because they were pursuing their dream, however unconventional the farming style
PHOTOS BY JAKOB KOUNKEL
(Above) Jodi Brown checks on the farm’s winter squash before leaving to pick up her kids from daycare July 9 at the Brown Family Farm in Oak Park. They also grow other squash varieties like butternut, buttercup, acorn, carnival and sweet dumpling. (Left) Pigs on the Brown Family Farm munch on zucchinis July 9 that were cultivated on the same land in Oak Park. The Brown Family Farm grows food for families through community supported agriculture.
and b a c k breaking the work was. Their work ethic was also motivated by their children – William, 8, Karli, 7, and Kelsi, 5. Now, having found their “forever farm” in Oak Park and gaining more traction with their business, Jodi said they continue to farm via direct support from their sup-
porters and partners. Looking forward, Jodi said they plan on staying the course. “Exactly this,” Jodi said when asked what is in store for the future. “I’d like to add a couple different things on to what we’re doing here, like the pigs, but this is what we want to do.” Ben and Jodi recently started raising pigs, all of which are already spoken
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for by various members, as they continue to expand on what they can offer. Along with the box of weekly produce also come instructions for recipes and tips and tricks for cooking and storing the food. The boxes come in three sizes, and they contain foods like tomatoes, watermelons, corn, peppers, onions, zucchinis, and herbs, though there are more than 100 different kinds of crops available. The farthest any box
travels is 60 miles. “The process is harvesting it, washing it, packing it, delivering it,” Jodi said. “I give (Ben) a list every morning and say, ‘I need 242 heads of romaine lettuce, and I need three bushels of sugar snap peas and so on.’ And then he harvests it and that’s what we use to pack our shares every day.” The growing season begins in late March with seeds in a greenhouse. The Browns transplant the
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seedlings into the soil after they’ve began go grow, though they can direct seed certain crops like radishes and beans. One of the trickiest parts of moving to the Oak Park location was and continues to be learning about the land. Jodi said it will be years before they have the knowledge about the characteristics of their current soil compared to what they knew about their prior land. “There’s different weeds and different things to worry about,” Jodi said. “We never used to have thistles, and there are thistles here everywhere. We used have a ton of sand burs; now we don’t have any. You just have to learn as you go, but Ben has been doing this long enough to know what to do.” Jodi also greatly credits their employees, a group of less than 10 people on average who are largely friends and family, for their dedication and for sharing a vision of what CSA can be. Even through the difficult years, Ben and Jodi – both in their early 30s – knew they were taking a bit of a leap of faith when they decided to risk it as early adopters of a new trend in small-acreage family farming.
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SAUK RAPIDS HERALD | SATURDAY, JULY 17, 2021 | Page 3B
from page 2B
Farm families from page 1B
The Farm Family Recognition Program has honored Minnesota farmers since 1979. It is coordinated by University of Minnesota Extension, the College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences and the College of Veterinary Medicine. Area 2021 Farm Families of the Year are:
Benton County – Emslander Farms The Emslander farm was purchased in 1971 by Dave and Rosie Emslander. They began their dream of farming by raising a couple of sows and selling feeder pigs at market until 1973 when the couple decided to milk cows. They started with 10 cows and slowly increased their herd to 30. In 1980, the Emslanders doubled their barn size and began milking 60. The Emslanders raised nine children. All the kids helped on the farm when they were young. Dave and Rose sold their milking cows when their youngest child, David, left the farm to work construction in 2000. Dave and Rosie continued to raise steers, beef cows and row crops. David missed the way farm life brought family together, so he and his wife, Lisa, decided farming would be a good way to raise their family. They purchased the farm from David’s parents in 2014 and started buying bottle calves and raising them to finish. Currently, the couple buys steers at 400 pounds and finishes them. David and Lisa have three children – Shayla, Ethan and Megan. Shayla helps full time on the farm and loves farm-
PHOTOS BY JAKOB KOUNKEL
(Above) The sun shines on the Brown Family Farm July 9 in Oak Park. Employees were working out in the field, close to finishing up for the day. (Right) Brown Family Farm employees Grace Olson (from left), Anna Brown, Jodi Brown, Hannah Bodnar and Jennifer Faue work hard before day’s end July 9 at the farm in Oak Park. They were picking zucchinis.
in the fields, but the members are what matter.” The relationship also serves as a mutually valu-
able partnership between another family families, where one fam- doing what they ily gets the quality produce love. they want while supporting
ing; she hopes to become a big part of the future of the farm her grandparents started. Ethan helps with a lot of the projects on the farm and is leaning toward working in the construction industry. The Emslanders’ youngest daughter, Megan, helps with chores including driving skidloader and bedding the cattle. Megan also loves farming. Along with some parttime help, the Emslanders run the farm together. The family teams up with the University of Minnesota Extension and their local Natural Resources Conservation Service to improve water quality and soil conversation by experimenting with management practices and cover crops. Kanabec County – Nielsen Farms The first members of the Nielsen family came to America from Denmark in 1921 and moved to southern Minnesota to begin farming. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Nielsen family farming in the United States. Terry and Laneta Nielsen left southern Minnesota’s Martin County with their children in 1980 and purchased land south of Ogilvie in Kanabec County. Along with the help of their children, the Nielsens began their new farming operation on a few hundred acres raising 400 head of cattle and 200 sows. Currently, the farm grows corn, soybean, wheat, oat, alfalfa and hay. It is home to many cow-calf pairs. Terry and Laneta are the owner-operators of the farm. Their son, Darek, is a co-owner and along with his wife, Ally, takes care of a wide variety of daily and seasonal tasks. The Nielsens’ daughter, Mindy, drives semi and is the roller operator. Terry’s brother, Gary, contributes to the farm’s success by driving the semi-truck.
The Nielsens conduct on-farm trials for several agricultural companies and their own personal knowledge. They have been part of Randy Dowdy’s Next Level group the last couple of years, and the family participates in the Adopt-aHighway program. Mille Lacs County – Gerth Farms William Gerth purchased the farm in 1924. The farm ownership was passed down through the family until 1965 when Gene and Judy Gerth moved to the homestead to start their family. Gene and Judy raised purebred Angus cattle and later hogs. In addition to livestock, they grew corn, soybean and hay. As their family grew, sons Ross and Ryan became fully involved in dayto-day operations alongside their parents. Upon Gene’s passing in 2009, Ross and Ryan took over the operations of the Gerth family farm. They are the fourth generation to farm the land. Today, the farm is operated by Ross, Ryan and their mother, Judy. They grow corn and soybean on owned and rented land. In addition to their own farm, the Gerths also do custom work for a few local farms. The combination of their own farm and custom work finds the Gerths covering just under a couple thousand acres per year. Judy is a past secretary and manager of the Mille Lacs County Fair. Gene served on the Mille Lacs County Fair board for 25 years, the Minnesota State Fair board, and the Mille Lacs County Soil and Water Conservation District Board. Ryan and Ross are also active members of the community. Ryan is a board member of the East Central Corn Growers Association. Ross is a board member of Federated Co-ops. Both Ryan and Ross
have full-time careers outside of farming with families of their own. Ryan and his wife, Annie, have a daughter, Aurora. Ross and his wife, Michelle, have a son, Grayson. Judy worked for Princeton State Bank prior to staying home to raise her sons. Today, Judy remains busy continuing to help where she is needed in farming operations and enjoying being a grandma. Morrison County – Calvin and Tammy Beumer, of Lone Pine Farm Lone Pine Farm was started in 1937 by Henry Beumer, Calvin’s grandfather. Years later, Henry’s son Edmund and his wife, Mary, purchased the farm. In 1983, Calvin and Tammy bought the dairy farm from Calvin’s parents. In 1987, they built a poultry barn to raise broiler chickens for the Jack Frost company, and in 2004, the family started a beef herd. The Beumers have established a diverse approach to farming. The family’s operation includes 85 dairy cows, chickens and a cow-calf herd. The family also grows corn, soybean, alfalfa, oat and grass hay on about 600 acres. Conservation of the farm’s soil and natural resources has been important to the Beumers throughout the family’s history on the farm. Calvin and Tammy manage the day-to-day operation of the farm. Their four children and grandchildren enjoy spending time and helping on the farm. Their son Allen and his wife, Heather, along with their children manage the chicken barn. The Beumers’ daughter Leann and her husband, Chad, and their children manage the beef herd. The Beumers are members of St. Rita’s Church in Hillman and are members of the Minnesota
Dairy Herd Improvement Association. The family is involved in the Hillman Swampstompers Snowmobiling Club and supports the Milaca FFA Foundation. Calvin served on the county Farm Service Agency committee, Milaca school board and is serving on the board of directors of Sunrise Ag Cooperative. Sherburne County – Mertz Family The Mertz family’s Iron Shoe Farm was established in April 2013. The farm is a diversified operation providing Hereford beef, along with heritage breed pork and pasture-raised chickens to consumers and restaurants locally and throughout the Twin Cities metro area. The family operates an onfarm store and market and works with other producers to support their local food system. Iron Shoe Farm is a sustainable farm and is home to pasture-raised Hereford cattle, pastureraised Mangalista and Red Wattle pigs, pasture-raised chickens and laying hens. The Mertzes grow microgreens, edible flowers, vegetables and herbs. Carla Mertz is the farm’s owner-operator and her husband, David, handles many of the farm’s daily operations. Carla and David’s daughter, Morgan, also handles many of the day-to-day chores and deliveries. Morgan is off to Adrian College in Michigan this fall to study chemistry. The Mertzes continue to support local foods and the work of the Minnesota Farmers Union. The family collaborates with local chefs and hosts an annual dinner on the farm to promote agritourism. Carla has made many presentations on local food production for the Sustainable Farming Association, MFU, the University of Minnesota
and the 100 Rural Women’s Group. She also serves on the Sherburne County Extension Committee. Stearns County – Glen and Sadie Frericks Glen and Sadie started farming in 2005 on Sadie’s family’s farm in northeastern Minnesota. The couple moved their herd of 40 cows to Stearns County in 2006 and purchased a farm of their own a year later. Today, the Frerickses milk 100 cows and raise their own replacements. In the winter, they house their cows in a tie-stall barn with a sand-bedded freestall barn in their future. In the summer, the cows and heifers graze on 100 acres of perennial pasture. The Frerickses own 20 acres and rent another 55 acres of cropland on which they rotate silage corn and alfalfa, all protected by cover crops. Glen and Sadie are the owner-operators of their farm. Their children Dan, Monika and Daphne help with a variety of chores. The Frerickses are members of Adley Creek 4-H Club and show at the Stearns County Fair. They are also members of the Minnesota Farm Bureau Federation and Land O’ Lakes Cooperative. Sadie serves on the boards of the Minnesota Milk Producers Association and Cooperative Network.
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The families they serve want to throw their support behind farmers they know while receiving locally sourced and cultivated food they know they can trust. Share members can see pictures posted on the farm’s social media of their work on the farm, which includes transparency – even when it might not be the best news. “Keeping the members around is more important than making a buck,” Jodi said, who maintains that loyalty and transparency in communicating with their members is critically important. … “There are different scenarios every year
BENTON AG
SAUK RAPIDS HERALD | SATURDAY, JULY 17, 2021 | Page 5B
Rural Finance Authority clears way for disaster loans
Eligible drought-affected farmers can now apply for zero-interest financing
ST. PAUL – The Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s Rural Finance Authority Board determined July 14 an emergency exists in Minnesota due to drought, which makes zero-interest loans available imLmediately for Minnesota efarmers whose operations fare suffering from lack of rain. “The RFA board members voted unanimously to make these disaster recovery funds available because of current drought conditions,” said Thom Petersen, Minnesota Agriculture
Commissioner. “This zero-interest loan program is especially important for farmers whose crops and livestock are suffering from the drought and were not insured or were underinsured.” The Disaster Recovery Loan Program can be used to help cover lost revenue or expenses not covered by insurance. The funds can be used to help clean up, repair or replace farm buildings, repair or replace septic and water systems, replace seed, fertilizer (or other cropping inputs), feed or livestock and
poultry. Farmers in Minnesota counties considered to be in severe drought or worse (D2+ on the U.S. Drought Monitor’s designation) and in contiguous counties are eligible to apply. Eligible farmers must have received at least 50% of their annual gross income from farming for the past three years and will work through their bank to secure the loans from the RFA. Interest rates on the RFA portion of the loan are currently set at 0%. More information on the Disaster Recovery Loan is on the Minnesota Department of Agriculture website.
U.S. Drought Monitor Minnesota As of July 13 Provided by Deborah Bathke, National Drought Mitigation Center
Modern farming from page 4B
PHOTO BY JAKOB KOUNKEL
Austin Law (left), Tom Beckel and Michelle Olson, of the Twin Cities Road Crew, shoot video around one of Jake Bauerly’s largest pieces of farm equipment at Bauerly’s farm in rural Sauk Rapids July 13. Law and Beckel are cameramen, and Olson is the actress playing Maizey in the corncob suit.
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Nate Watters (back, center) discusses apple varieties July 9 during a tour of the orchard at Milk and Honey Ciders in St. Joseph. Watters is co-owner and cidermaker at Keepsake Cidery in Dundas.
Featured Old World cider apple varieties The following 12 Old World varieties were featured on a July 9 tour of the orchard at Milk and Honey Cider in St. Joseph. Through their Cider Apple Project, University of Minnesota researchers
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Porter’s Perfection
Origin: England Bloom: Early May Harvest: Late September Description: Produces a goodquality, bittersharp juice that is popular in cider production. It is most often used in blends.
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Brown’s Apple
Origin: England Bloom: Early to mid-May Harvest: Late September Description: Produces a sharp juice; amber in color. Notes of citrus, cut grass, butterscotch and honey on the nose. Benefits from blending.
Dabinett
Origin: France and England Bloom: Mid- to late-May Harvest: Mid-October Description: Produces a bittersweet juice; amber in color. Tannins (bitterness) tend to dominate the flavor of this singlevarietal; suitable for blending.
Major
Foxwhelp
Tremlett’s Bitter
Bulmer’s Norman
Chisel Jersey
Ashmead’s Kernel
Harry Master’s Journey Kingston Black
Origin: France and England Bloom: Early to mid-May Harvest: Mid-September Description: Produces a sweet juice; mildly bitter and gold in color. Cider is light-bodied and well-balanced with a refreshing finish.
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Late September Description: Produces a bittersweet juice with typical barnyard characteristics. Long tannic/ astringent finish adds complexity to a blend.
Origin: England Bloom: Early May Harvest: Early October Description: Produces a bittersharp juice; amber in color and highly acidic. Notes of sharp apple, pear and butterscotch. Best in blends.
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Early to mid-September Description: Produces a bittersweet juice; amber-copper in color. Very aromatic with a long tannic finish. Good for blends.
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Mid-October Description: Produces a sharp juice with strong tannic bitterness. Even a small amount of this juice adds depth and complexity to a blend.
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Origin: England Bloom: Mid- to late-May Harvest: Mid-October Description: Produces a sugary yet sharp juice. Single-varietal cider is rich and well-balanced.
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Early to mid-October Description: Produces a bittersweet juice that works as a single-varietal. Cider is balanced with notes of melon, berries and butterscotch.
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Late September Description: Produces a sharp juice; gold to amber in color. Suitable for single-varietal cider, with soft tannins and notes of citrus and apple.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA EXTENSION
Yarlington Mill
Origin: England Bloom: Mid-May Harvest: Late September Description: Produces a bittersweet juice that is low in acid. Adds soft tannins and structure to a blend but is suitable for a single-varietal. Cider apple page 9B
BENTON AG
SAUK RAPIDS HERALD | SATURDAY, JULY 17, 2021 | Page 9B
Cider apple from page 8B
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University of Minnesota fruit specialists host cider apple production field day
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ST. JOSEPH – When it comes to making cider, experts say it is not apples to apples. While any variety can be used, not every apple is created equal. The flavor characteristics of apples have a huge impact on the flavor, aroma and mouthfeel of a cider, according to Annie Klodd, University of Minnesota Extension educator for fruit production. Cider enthusiasts studied and sampled the core ingredient of the Epopular beverage July 9 during a cider apple production field day hosted by the University of Minnesota Extension. Extension educators, university researchers and experienced cider growers gave guided tours of the orchard at Milk and Honey Ciders in rural St. Joseph. About 50 people evaluated a dozen Old World varieties that originated in European countries. Experts highlighted cider apple variety selection in Minnesota and best practices for orchard management. Afterward, attendees tasted and compared ciders made with 12 Minnesota apple varieties by the University of Minnesota enology program. Some of the attendees were apple growers or cider makers, while others were considering starting their own cidery and sourcing apples. The field day aimed to connect people who make cider and raise apples for its production, Klodd said. Minnesota’s cider scene Hard cider, a fermented beverage made from the juice of apples, is making a big splash in the Minnesota craft beverage scene, according to Klodd. A number of cideries have opened in Minnesota. This is opening doors for people looking to try something new and providing a new avenue for orchards to sell their crop, Klodd said. In 2016, cider makers and apple growers founded the Minnesota Cider Guild to promote, develop and showcase Minnesota cider. The guild provides cider-making resources for members, and its website has a map of member cideries for those looking to visit one.
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Annie Klodd, University of Minnesota Extension educator for fruit production, discusses one of a dozen Minnesota apple varieties used to make cider. The university hosted a cider apple field production day July 9 for people interested in starting or enhancing cider apple growing and/or making.
Olga Zenteno of St. Cloud samples apple cider July 9 at a field day at Milk and Honey Ciders in St. Joseph. Guests tasted and compared 12 individual ciders made by the University of Minnesota enology program.
What makes a cider apple? In terms of cider making, apples are characterized as sharp, bittersharp, sweet and bittersweet, depending on tannin and acid levels of the variety, Klodd said. Apples that may be too bitter to be eaten fresh may be useful for cidermaking. Cider apples are known to contain tannins, which are bitter but help to balance a cider that may otherwise be too sweet, too thin or too onedimensional in flavor. Too many tannins, however, can make cider too bitter, so correct balance is key. Acidity not only imparts a sharp edge to a good cider but ensures good fermentation. Often a combination of apples with different flavors and acid levels are used to craft high-quality ciders, Klodd said. Proven-good Minnesota cider apple varieties Klodd said chestnut crabapples and Keepsake are two Minnesota-grown
varieties known to produce good cider. Introduced in 1978, Keepsake apples ripen in mid-October, according to information from the Extension. These apples are described as very hard and crisp with yellow flesh and an exotic sweet, spicy flavor. The tree is of medium vigor and easy to manage. Introduced in 1949, chestnut crabapples ripen in early September. They are large with a rich, nutty flavor. Some of the cider sampled by field day attendees was made with apple varieties developed by the University of Minnesota. U of M-trademarked apples include SnowSweet, described as savory and sweet, with a slight tart balance and rich overtones, and SweeTango, described as juicy and sweet, with hints of fall spices and deep-red coloration over a yellowbreaking background. Cider Apple Project In 2019, Klodd and researchers from the Uni-
versity of Minnesota’s fruit breeding program received a grant for research and outreach on growing cider apples. Their goals were to determine the best varieties to grow and use for hard cider in Minnesota and to determine the cider characteristics of Minnesota-hardy apples. Currently, much of the cider in Minnesota is made from University of Minnesota hardy varieties such as Haralson, Keepsake, Honeycrisp and SnowSweet. Cider has provided a new market for orchards currently growing these common varieties, according to Klodd. Knowing the characteristics of Minnesota hardy apples will help makers decide which apple varieties to use in their ciders and will help new Minnesota apple growers decide what varieties to plant and sell for cider, she said. Milk and Honey Ciders, of St. Joseph, is one of seven Minnesota orchards growing 12 Old World cider apple varieties: Ashmead’s Kernel, Brown’s, Bulmer’s Norman, Chisel Jersey, Dabinett, Foxwhelp, Harry Masters Jersey, Kingston Black, Major, Porter’s Perfection, Tremlett’s Bitter and Yarlington Mill. Klodd and university researchers are working with the orchards to evaluate yield, winter injury and tree growth. The process involves making cider from each variety and testing it for juice qualities (tannin content, total acidity, etc.) and sensory qualities such as aroma, flavor and feel.
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