Opening with his Scottish muse, Stella Tennant – an aristocratic model worthy of this role, the Chanel fashion show was a marvelous success. Held in Scotland’s Linlithgow Palace, the creative Karl Lagerfeld showcased his Metiers d’Art collection as a tribute to the Scottish heritage, of which Coco Chanel was a great fan. Lagerfeld, having being questioned on Scotland’s influence replied, “Chanel came here, she discovered tweed here and the cashmere. Now we’ve bought Barrie.” This being a remark on the cashmere mill that Chanel has recently taken over, located in Hawick. Inspired by this famous admiration, his collection played with androgynous gothic-Jacobite variations on the famous Scottish garment, the kilt. Including hints of Celtic pewter and pearls and of course, the baggy sweaters and woolen garments – perfect to complete the Scottish inspired look.
However the primary inspiration was taken from Mary, Queen of Scots and her rival cousin, Elizabeth I, with features of high pleated, curled hairstyles and a large amount of feather and lace ruffs; the models being transformed into modern and haute couture versions of ladies-in-waiting at Elizabeth I’s court.
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The androgynous look was continued through pieces such as ghillie hats, knickerbockers and modern takes on the classic tartan jumpers. The spectacle even showcased a new take on the 2.55 handbag in worn brown leather, as if it has been exposed to the notorious Scottish rain.
The creative director spared no expense for the night with chauffeurs accompanying guests, such as Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell, from all over Scotland to Linlithgow, as the drivers coated themselves with Chanel cologne. As well as waiters all dressed in white lace-up shirts, offering trays of goblets filled high with the finest champagne, alongside canapés of venison sausages before the show – constructing a fantastical yet historical setting to near perfection, accompanied by a rhythmic drum playing in the distance. This collection, despite exhibiting impeccable and exquisite craftsmanship towards the woolens, tweeds and cashmere, was spectacularly enhanced with the early 16th century palace. The Scottish palace producing a strong atmosphere with the rustic décor, created a dreamlike image of a “Renaissance court”. Complete with fireplaces, a wooden catwalk and wooden benches surrounding a quaint courtyard; this, seating the 400 spectators, as they were draped in tartan blankets to prevent the ice-cold winds cutting through as evening crept in. Mr Lagerfeld himself saying “I loved the location and the way the show was staged was exactly what I wanted” and declaring that he “wanted the rough romance of this beautiful place”, this “rough romance” was further highlighted as the glistening snowdrops delicately fell onto the spellbinding Scottish palace, lit by a soft glow, reflecting in the small loch in the grounds that could be seen from miles away.