Opening with his Scottish muse, Stella Tennant – an aristocratic model worthy of this role, the Chanel fashion show was a marvelous success. Held in Scotland’s Linlithgow Palace, the creative Karl Lagerfeld showcased his Metiers d’Art collection as a tribute to the Scottish heritage, of which Coco Chanel was a great fan. Lagerfeld, having being questioned on Scotland’s influence replied, “Chanel came here, she discovered tweed here and the cashmere. Now we’ve bought Barrie.” This being a remark on the cashmere mill that Chanel has recently taken over, located in Hawick. Inspired by this famous admiration, his collection played with androgynous gothic-Jacobite variations on the famous Scottish garment, the kilt. Including hints of Celtic pewter and pearls and of course, the baggy sweaters and woolen garments – perfect to complete the Scottish inspired look.
However the primary inspiration was taken from Mary, Queen of Scots and her rival cousin, Elizabeth I, with features of high pleated, curled hairstyles and a large amount of feather and lace ruffs; the models being transformed into modern and haute couture versions of ladies-in-waiting at Elizabeth I’s court.
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The androgynous look was continued through pieces such as ghillie hats, knickerbockers and modern takes on the classic tartan jumpers. The spectacle even showcased a new take on the 2.55 handbag in worn brown leather, as if it has been exposed to the notorious Scottish rain.