khaleej times Friday, January 22, 2010
fashion
12
Milan’s
Military MADneSS
Dsquared2
Eisenhower chic, Trans formers,
Berets and Sicilian sensibilities
Dol Gabbcaen& a
rginoi Giom a Ar
leather and black wings. Of course, one look we are all sure not to forget any time soon, was the neon pink patent leather button-down shirting with black bowties worn in tandem down the he F/W 2010 Men’s Fashion Shows runway by look-alike models. marched into Milan with digital precision, thought-provoking subtext of Moncler Gamme Bleu texture and a visible vacillating be- Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu gave tween history or heritage and unchar- one of his best shows, not just for the Moncler tered waters of futurism. The shows brought with house, but in general. There was a buoyant aththem an excellent execution of themes (as was letic air to the collection that was fresh, visually Thom Browne’s exquisite military romp for Mon- appealing and a nod to designer Thom Browne’s cler Gamme Bleu). Go-to fashion pieces with a competitive swim team past. The Thom Browne plethora of solid outwear for any and all occasions aesthetic — suiting — evident in camel-coloured (notably Prada and Gucci) and a continuation of short suits; in the tailored, padded wool grey the digital divide — to stream or not to stream — pants with diagonal stitching/striping across which thankfully more and more houses are dip- the knee; in the blazers with horizontal stitchping their toes into the new age with live online ing as though quilted and in the streamlined shows (Kudos to Z Zegna and Burberry). down parkas. Visually delightful moments came in the shape of felony-inspired stripes, overDolce & Gabbana coats with banding that at once made one think Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, of Dolce & of a built in backpack or safety harnesses (alas Gabbana,gaveustheheritageoftheirSicilianroots no), shrunken fur hooded parkas; and the modand cinematic sensuality in three distinctive seg- ernised plaid pairings. Alpine cosiness appeared ments. There were the frayed and hand-me-down in the chunky knit sweaters, the warm-as-toast chic thermal jodphur underwear worn as outwear, (at least in appearance) tights, the fur hats and the soft broken-in vintage-inspired tees and the hoods; the above-the-knee lace-up moon boots; well-worn boots which spoke of both pride and and the bomber down jackets that reminded me poverty of the 1920s. Then there were the paint- of the Marshmallow Man from Ghostbusters. splattered distressed denim, the stonewashed (or they appeared to be) leather motorcycle jackets, Prada the chunky knits that appeared threadbare, all Muccia gave the Prada man a more urbane, appaired with lived-in, well worn boots that nodded proachable aesthetic this time around, veerto military boot meets Doc Martens. Ideal looks ing into the realm of being commercially viable for the man about town or the man on his way to do right out of the gate, a seldom occurrence, oh some good old fashioned hard work. The evening my! The collection had a nostalgic or retro sense looks presented elegant suiting, both in classic to it but not one that languished in the past and suiting and separates, in washed flannels and lush translated it deliberately. There were shrunken velvet textures. scoop-neck sweaters worn of crisp shirting; toolong sleeves; flared pants (not quite bells but a Giorgio Armani nod towards them) and altar boy bangs which Mr Armani gave us streamlined bomber jackets, suggested a boy who had grown too fast and outa take on ski-slope (think down jacket) athleti- grown his Sunday clothing. The clashing colour cism done the Giorgio Armani way with tailored, schemes and bold camouflage patterns, among tapered fit. Texture was the biggest theme at the others, added a sense of chaos and aggression, Armani show with almost every look making or was it just plain old bad taste played out on one want to extend a hand as the models strode world stage? The most exceptional pieces that by, to feel and stroke the rich velvets, leathers, made every one take note were the oversized, shearlings, quilting and a new innovation for the wool and knit double-lapel single and doublehouse, what appeared to be neoprene — again, breasted overcoats, as well as the chunky chea nod to outdoors and athleticism which Mr Ar- nille-inspired knits. This show also marks the mani, albeit over 70, knows plenty about. With first time Ms Prada showed the men’s RTW and the incorporation of newer fabric treatments women’s Pre-Fall lines simultaneously. and athleticism, it signalled a loosening of the house’s strict design reigns in favour of moder- Jill Sander nity and the embracing of a more youthful audi- Raf Simons treated his audience to minimalism, ence and client base. There were plenty of Ar- a signature, Brill Creamed bouffant hairstyles mani signatures, suiting, but in softer and more and modernised Frank Sinatra Rat Pack shiny fluid fabrics and cuts with the strict tailoring suiting. Jackets were fuller in cut, festooned that made the house what it is today, still neatly with odd shapes that were a cross between a stitched in place. lapis stone and trapezoids (which also carried over to sweaters and shoes). Slacks were Dsquared2 tailored and more fitted worn found in suitGhouls, skinheads and fetishism ruled the ing and in separates paired with single-button runway at the ‘life is always a party’ house of blazers and turtleneck sweaters; puffer jackets DSquared2. Dean and Dan had shirtless mod- that were cut to the waist in a boxy jacket style; els dripping with chains, faux blood and bruis- asymmetrical neckline sweaters had a relaxed ing stomping down the catwalk which seemed cosy air. The odd shapes sprouted again on more Rocky Horror than rocker chic, aka more shirting as though futuristic pocket protectors punk and less Canadian camping trips. Sons that only an astute geek or nerd could effortof Anarchy kept running through my mind as I lessly embrace, as well as standing-collar futurwatched each look, mostly black and white, slide istic peacoats and blazers. Shiny fabrications past. Perhaps it was the low slung pants, the were not just reserved for the Rack Pack suiting, grunge-esque skull and bone T-shirts, the blood it also appeared on the sweater fronts giving off splattered white shirts or the motorcycle pants an iridescent glow. In between all of the laidtempered with nice sparkly evening jackets. As back minimalism and futuristic meanderings, with each DSquared2 show, there is a marquee lay a plethora of classic suiting for the everyday name that walks the walk and this time around it man seeking chic, hip alternatives to a market was German rocker Bill Kaulitz, front man of the flooded with banality and mediocrity. rock band Tokio Hotel, who strutted his stuff in havestyle@gmail.com Stephanie Rivers
T
Prada
Jill Sander