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A FABLED AND BEJE
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s a brand Cartier has always been able to tap into the defining spirit or mood of a particular period of history, whether the maison produced chimerical creatures, precious tiaras and mystery clocks or bespoke pieces for stylish clients.
commissioned by the crowned heads and aristocrats of Europe, which pirouette in a “tiara carousel”. No photograph could ever capture the dazzle as the turning diamonds catch the light; it has to be seen to be believed and truly captures the essence of the Belle Epoque. (MDIUM)
This zeitgeisty ability is most apparent in the recent “Style and History” exhibition held at the Grand Palais in Paris, as well as the timepieces presented at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2014 in Geneva.
Light projections and fantastical creatures are streamed onto the walls and ceilings of the exhibition, the prevailing motif being the tutti frutti patterns that Cartier is so famous for. (LIGHT)
The 600 pieces of jewellery, bejewelled accessories and timepieces accurately reflect over 167 years of history and are complemented by more than 300 documents from the Cartier archives. These include notebooks, drawings, order books, inventories, plaster casts, autochromes and photographs; all providing insight into the jeweller’s creative process. Visitors to the exhibition are greeted by a tier of tiaras
In the early 20th century it became evident that Cartier eschewed Art Nouveau, heading straight towards “le style moderne” - the streamlined look of Art Deco - instead. (Book) As commissions from royalty dwindled (except for the British royal family, whose jewellery was also on loan for this astonishing exhibition) wealthy socialites and movie stars became the new royalty and Cartier’s bespoke pieces reflect this. Princess Grace’s elegant jewellery contrasts with the flamboyance of, say, Elizabeth Taylor’s diamonds or Wallis