What Skincare Should I use?

We asked a Dermatologist to explain the basics.

BY COBY RENKIN

While I’ve never been a skincare fanatic, I always kind of thought I was covering my bases with a simple cleanse, exfoliate, moisturise routine. Besides my various, sometimes harrowing, acne treatments over the years, these three steps are the only ones I’ve stayed true to since my first Clean & Clear scrub at age 11. What are the basics of skincare? Where and how do I start? Can somebody please tell me what the hell to do before I spend my entire life savings on a bunch of products that probably don’t work together or even target my skin concerns? Help! Dr. Shyamalar Gunatheesan, founding dermatologist at ODE Dermatology, gave me all the answers, in the most straightforward, basic, explaining-to-an-absolute-rookie language possible.

How important is it to have an everyday skincare routine?

I would say it’s really important because consistency with any skincare active is key. Our skin replenishes every 28 days, so the benefits of most routines would only manifest in about 28 to 56 days. Consistency and everyday use is very important to get the result that we want without overwhelming our skin barrier.

Where should a newbie start?

With the right cleanser. For most people, it’s where they don’t invest because they think ‘It’s a cleanser, it’s going to wash off anyway’. But because we experience so many pollutants in a day, a cleanser is very important and my tip would be to start with a gentle cleanser. Something that’s rich in ceramides – essentially a cleanser that’s not going to strip off your natural barrier (your acid mantle). We don’t want to use a harsh cleanser because that can upset the balance.

A gentle cleanser that hydrates the skin but removes a bit of that sweat, pollutants, sunscreen [and] makeup. How you cleanse your face really preps your skin for proper delivery of any active ingredients if you were to use any. My other tip is most of us only need a cleanse at night. Wake up in the morning, save your money on cleanser, just splash a bit of water on and start your routine. One thing I always say is if you’re starting out, just introduce one or two items at a time. Let your skin adapt and don’t overwhelm its barrier.

Are there any non-negotiables when it comes to a skincare routine?

A sunscreen. We know that 90 percent of aging is environmental and the sun, so I’d have to say the non-negotiable would be a sunscreen, a broad-based one, preferably with zinc. The other one I would say is non-negotiable is niacinamide, a vitamin B3. The reason I love B3 is it’s a multitasker, it helps with pigment, it rejuvenates your skin, it’s an anti-inflammatory, it’s an antioxidant. With everyday life, with cell turnover, with energy production, you produce these abnormal molecules called free radicals and they are scavengers.

They destroy DNA, they attach to things, they oxidise your cells, they make you age and they can make you prone to damage and skin cancers – vitamin B3 is the perfect neutraliser. If you’ve got oily skin it’s also good because it regulates sebum production, it also moisturises your skin very well if you’ve got dry skin because it can create something called your natural moisturising factors. It’s quite a good all-rounder and nobody seems to really get irritated, most people can tolerate a vitamin B.

How

Do You Know What Products You Can Mix And

what you

can’t?

Are there really that many products that don’t work together? If products are formulated well, they should work synergistically well together. I think if you’ve got no issues with your skin then maybe stick to one brand, follow the steps of that brand. Once you start mixing different brands, that’s when you don’t know if they’re compounding the inflammation or cancelling each other out.

If you haven’t got problematic skin then stick to one brand because they would have done that molecular level testing to make sure they don’t cancel out each other. I think consumers run into trouble because they mix and match different brands of actives. But the best thing you can do, especially if you’ve got sensitive skin, is you need to see a dermatologist who can recommend which actives, in what mediums, and in what chronology.

What order should you apply your products in?

My routine would be cleanse your face, pat dry – your skin should still be slightly damp – and that’s when you put your first serum on. Let it sit for 30 seconds and then put something heavier on like a moisturiser or an oil. Always pat that moisturiser as opposed to rubbing it in. People tend to rush all the steps but it matters to wait 30 seconds in between each step, stagger it a bit or else it becomes one big stew.

Anything else you think we’re missing?

People are not doing enough to really capitalise on our wellness for our skin health, gut health is very connected to skin. It has implications to a lot of skin conditions but also from an anti-aging perspective. So an anti-inflammatory diet, sleeping more, not overwhelming yourself with too much protein a day, protein cycling, intermittent fasting, can all be a part of healthy skin. Don’t get me wrong, if you’ve got cystic acne or hormonal acne, abstaining from everything is not going to fix your skin, you still need a bit of my help, but it does matter.

Toxic Ingredients to avoid in Cosmetics (And Why).

Top 4 Ingredients to avoid and where you’re most likely to find them.

Phthalates

Phthalates are chemicals that make products more flexible. They affect the texture. In cosmetics, you’ll find phthalates in parfum, nail polish, hair spray, cleansers, and lotions. We have some phthalate-free fragrance product recommendations to help you avoid this group of toxins. When reading ingredient labels, look out for the name Dibutyl phthalate. It’s one of the most common phthalates. Our research has shown that this ingredient has plenty of evidence to suggest that it’s a carcinogen and hormone disruptor.

because companies are allowed to hide their proprietary blends behind this word. So, when you see “fragrance” as an ingredient, you actually don’t know what’s in it. For that reason, we encourage you to do your research and shop fragrance-free. Synthetic fragrances (and even natural fragrances) can be irritating and cause allergic reactions. Plus, there may be even more harmful ingredients like phthalates hiding behind the label.

Chemical UV filters like Octinoxate and Oxybenzone

Parabens

You’ve probably heard of parabens before. Fortunately, many people are aware that they should avoid parabens. It’s becoming easier and easier to find “paraben-free” products. Propylparaben and Iosbutylparaben are the ones to really keep an eye out for. Both should be avoided at all costs because they’re associated with certain types of cancer. Where are you most likely to see them? Everywhere. From household cleaning products to cosmetics you use on a daily basis, parabens are some of the most common preservative agents across multiple categories.

Synthetic fragrance

We’re here for the fragrance-free movement. The word “fragrance” is used as a euphemism for unsafe ingredients. This is

It’s no secret that we recommend mineral sunscreens over chemical sunscreens whenever possible. Chemical sunscreen ingredients to avoid: Octinoxate and Oxybenzone. Each of these ingredients receive an E safety grade because they are harmful to human health. Look for these sunscreen ingredients instead: Zinc Oxide, Avobenzone, and Titanium Dioxide.