50 Premiere
Winemakers of
Napa Valley
Their Insights and Inspirations
A Letter from the Photographer The images that move me most are those t h a t r e v e a l a p e r s o n ’s w o r l d . N o t h i n g is more powerful than capturing an expression that plunges you deep into t h a t p e r s o n ’s s o u l . S o m e t i m e s i t ’s a n expression that pours love; sometimes i t ’s a m a p o f o n e ’s e x p e r i e n c e s ; i n a n y case, once seen, an image is imprinted for life. It cannot be voluntarily erased from your mind. An image, therefore, h o l d s a p o w e r, a n a b i l i t y, u n l i k e a n y other format. It can bring you back in time. It can make you laugh out loud. It can change your whole perspective and m a y b e e v e n y o u r l i f e ’s p a t h . I c a n o n l y hope that my photographs capture you with the same level of enthusiasm that I experience taking them. I owe my deepest gratitude to all of the winemakers that took the time to participate in my project. The kindness and genuine nature of each of these masters was so moving to experience. May you continue your passionate work of delivering to the world this great nectar of the Gods that we all get to celebrate our lives with. Much love,
N icol a S iso
Napa’s Magic + Artistic Farmers What is it about Napa Valley that allures the world’s preeminent winemakers? Clearly the terroir contributes to this magnetism, which encompasses the geography, geology and climate of this unique valley. But there is more to this vineyard seduction, and the generations of families and winemakers that make Napa magic… Napa is a small valley, and yet regularly, and reasonably, compared to the countries of France and I taly. This comparison extends beyond the world of wine and terroir, and into the realm of histor y and place. The first winer y in Napa Valley was established in 1858, an early nod to the location’s potential. But it wasn’t until the victories at The Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 that the world was forced to take Napa Valley wine seriously. With the opening of that bottle, awards and recognition began to pour in, along with oenophiles (wine lovers), farmers, and winemakers. In many cases these farmers and winemakers are one in the same with second and third generations growing their own roots. These vineyard ar tists must live and breathe with the land, and see beyond the canvas that histor y painted for them. Each har vest nature brings something new. Winemakers must blend their talents and vision with whatever nature ser ves, and create masterpieces that define Napa Valley. You’ll find our world- class masters of winemak ing in the fields, wineries, restaurants and competitions; fighting for their place in histor y, and for the future of Napa Valley. This book represents a collaborative effor t between these ar tist farmers and author, Nicola Siso, to reveal a glimpse at the lives and passions of Napa’s winemakers. -- Ian White
Kirk Venge I had my first experience with wine when I was 4-years-old at my father’s winery, Saddleback. I’d sit on a turned over bucket and watch while my father would basket press Cabernet. I’d taste the black, pressed wine and thought it was pretty impressive to see the ‘cake’ that little press made. Being a winemaker is all I ever wanted to do. The vineyard and winery were where I grew up. It is all I’ve ever known. I feel lucky that I never had to make the decision about what to do or what to be one day. I never had to choose Napa Valley because I was born in Rutherford. But I’m glad to be making wine in one of finest wine regions in the world. My favorite season is spring when the bud break occurs. I have so much anticipation of the season to come. You can tell a lot about a vintage by how it starts. My personal style is to find a middle ground between passion and hands off. Wine style is a reflection of the winemaker. I try to treat each wine on a case by case basis. I do not live life organically, thus I don’t subscribe to those practices but I do love nature and our vineyards are incredibly sustainable. I can be intense, but I try to remain adjusted and relaxed. I certainly am passionate about wine but I try not to bother the barrels too often while they are aging. I try not to hover over my barrels with too much anxiety. My grapes are special because I am a winegrower and believe that the best wines are made under careful watch in the vineyard. My top three best bottles of wine are the Venge 2002, 2007 and 2008 Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Without a doubt, the best place for great grapes is Oakville and its gravely benchland. The question of what makes a wine worth $150 and up is very controversial. Simply put, the value is when the vineyard, the grower, the winery, the winemaker and the several steps and decisions along the way all merge together as one on a consistent basis. It is blissful. The journey is often detailed, laborious and expensive. The result is a truly remarkable wine that will provide its collector immense enjoyment. I do not feel forced to make wines that are drinkable today. Certainly the answer is no. That is the last thought that runs through my mind, although it is an easy trap to fall into, especially when most American consumers enjoy their wines shortly after release. I want to make wines that show balance and creativity. If they need time to peak and come around then so be it. I have been inspired by many winemakers of great talent and vision, including Louis Martini, Andre Tchelistcheff and Justin Meyer. They were among the wine industry leaders that helped sculpt the Napa Valley as we know it today. I prefer cork to screw caps. They are natural and renewable, but those screw caps on picnic wines sure are convenient. I don’t get too hung up in all the hoopla over which is better. But for me, cork is what I like to see in my wine bottles. If I were stuck on a desert island, I would want Krug Rose. If you have to be stuck on an island, might as well enjoy the peace and quiet with great Champagne in your glass! 6
N i l s Ve n g e My first experience with wine was with my father Pere Venge. He would always let me taste the wine. I loved it so much I ended up applying and graduating from UC Davis. My first job out in 1970 was working at the Charles Krug winery in their vineyards and lab. I wanted to become a winemaker after a four-year program that earned me my BS degree in Vitaculture. All my winemaker instruction came from Dr. Maynard Andrew Amerine, Professor Emeritus of Viticulture and Enology at the UC Davis. The strangest part of winemaking that most people definitely don’t realize is the 3,000 decisions a winemaker has to make from the beginning to the end product. I chose Napa Valley because it offered the best chance to be a part of a “new breed” of winemakers. Back in the 70’s we had a opportunity to set the stage for a fun future in winemaking. My favorite season was in 1974. We made the first great cabernet sauvignon at Villa Point Eden. All I can say is “Wow!” My personality shows in both my reds and white in their remarkable agreeability. My grapes are special because they are grown in mid-Oakville. It has a very unique terrior! My top six (not three) best wines are; Villa Mount Eden 1974 and 1978, Groth 1984 and 1985 Reserves, and Venge Family Reserve 1997 and 2002. No doubt, the safest bet to find great grapes is in Rutherford or Oakville. The wines worth $150 and up have a rich mouth feel. They have layers of texture and flavors. I think longevity is also important and a sign of a good quality wine. I do feel somewhat forced to make wines that are drinkable today. It requires a masterful art of balancing one’s tannins. The winemakers that inspire me are Ric Forman and Randy Dunn. The next up and coming winemakers? Two come to mind. Tony Biaggi and Mike Smith. Some of my wines are named after our family and other by geographic sign. Some are named after our dogs! Do I hope to own a winery someday? The more the better! (LOL) If I weren’t making wine I’d be making bourbon. I’d be a master blender. My thoughts on cork versus screw cap haven’t changed. Two and a quarter inch corks are still my favorite. If I were stuck on a desert island, I would bring a sweet Riesling. I’d keep it cool in a sandbox. Hahaaa! 8