Gstaad Palace
CHF 12.– / EUR 8.– ISSUE
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JOURNAL
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Every guest is a king and every king is a guest
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Oh, what a wonderful World at the Palace
IMPRESSIONS GSTAAD PALACE
For almost a century the Palace Hotel at Gstaad has attracted actors, artists, tycoons and world leaders. Guests as diverse and fascinating as Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Margaret Thatcher and Michael Jackson – as well as royalty from around the world – have enriched us with their culture, insight and glamour. For those of us who work here this is one of the most gratifying parts of our job. These encounters are always special, bringing a frisson of excitement to the hotel during the preparations for their visit. A healthy tension among the members of staff ensures the whole stay goes perfectly. My family has managed the Palace for three generations. My grandfather – whom we grandchildren lovingly called Papino – knew the benefits that star appearances had on his staff. In this picture you can see the magical moment when Louis Armstrong sang on the stage of the “Maxim”, our former ballroom. Papino wanted to share this moment with his staff so much that he spared no effort to do so. He even called in technicians from Berne to install loudspeakers in the kitchens so that the whole concert could be enjoyed by all the members of staff. As a jazz lover I truly regret not having been there. However, one day 10 years ago, a parcel in the mail gave me some consolation. In it was a recording of this famous concert on a CD and a long letter. It was written by a retired chef who had worked in our kitchens. It told how he had hidden a tape recorder under the stage of the ballroom to record this unique moment at the Palace.
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Magic moments at the Palace ‌
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… created by glamorous guests.
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Later he had it copied to a CD and mailed it to me to thank us for my grandfather’s kindness over fifty years ago. This is what makes our hotel special. Its guests, its members of staff and so many unforgettable moments. It remains a meeting place for important and fascinating people from all walks of life around the world. Sometimes I feel like a small king of a tiny kingdom where the world comes to us. Text: Andrea Scherz Photographs: Gstaad Palace
D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY
JOURNAL 10
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IMPRESSIONS What a wonderful world
34
PORTRAIT About Gildo Boccini
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EDITORIAL Enjoy
38
SPA Heavenly sensations
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Favourite Places The Lobby Bar
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APROPOS WINE Never out of fashion
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ANDREAS KOLLY Made of finest wood
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pernet COMESTIBLES Herbie Huber – the chef
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The Perreten Family Walo the cheese maker
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CHALETBAU MATTI Passion for beauty and authenticity
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TRADITION The Rubisack
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GSTAAD INSIDE Rooted in tradition
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EDUCATION Le Rosey
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AIR GLACIERS Staying cool in the world of “dangerous”
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THE SAGA Louis XIII
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KANDAHAR
INDEX 66
GREENGO The place to be
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FASHION World of luxury
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Sommets Musicaux The sounds of Gstaad
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THE NEW PROJECT True luxury is to belong
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WALIG HUT The world at our feet
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RIEDEL World of glasses
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PHOTOGRAPHY & ART The most famous cowboy
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BIKETEC Flying high riding low
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NOUVELLES
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APROPOS Cuisine Passionate about cooking
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BICENTENARY Perrier-Jouët
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HOTEL Chewton Glen
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Imprint
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Bach Immobilien AG, Le Chalet, Promenade 54, CH-3780 Gstaad Tel. +41 (0)33 748 44 88, Fax +41 (0)33 748 44 89, info@bachimmobilien.ch www.bachimmobilien.ch
EDITORIAL BY ANDREA SCHERZ
ENJOY
port does not even accept them for incineration because they produce toxic smoke. So what made me change my mind? My son loves magazines and he picked up a few in the lobby of a small hotel where we stopped to have coffee. Among his bounty was a
Welcome to our first edition of the Journal Gstaad
magazine for a large Swiss wine distributor that
Palace. Hopefully you will appreciate that our publi-
struck me as having a more valuable look than the
cation is different from most in-house magazines.
average corporate publication. It had interesting articles with great pictures and it didn’t come across
When our marketing manager came to me with the
as one long thinly disguised promotional spiel. It
idea for a magazine I was completely against it. It
was such a pleasure that I was grateful my wife had
brought to mind all the glossy publications that lie
a big handbag; we took it home so I could get in
around in our home and office. They always have the
touch with the editor.
same content: a pretty girl or a celebrity on the cover, a luxury shopping section, a people section, fashion,
We like to do things differently here. In this maga-
and for the gentlemen the latest fast car. There are
zine, which will be published annually, you will not
invariably some travel and cultural features, which
find a guide to the latest luxury goods and there will
in many magazines come from the same supplier.
be no social section showing grinning people hold-
They are homogenous and sterile. Once you have
ing glasses of champagne. This magazine will be
read one you have read them all. The publishers
based on other values, serving you authentic and
boast high circulation figures but what they don’t
unique articles on topics pertinent to Gstaad and
tell you is how they achieve them. I can’t count how
Switzerland. Or features that in some way relate to
many times my staff has found a huge pile of unso-
the Palace or even to one of our customers or sup-
licited magazines in our loading bay. The situation
pliers. We hope you enjoy it. If not, the paper is eco
became so bad that we have now established a list of
friendly. Perfect to light your chimney.
the magazines we tolerate. Even so, twice a year we dispose of over 300 kilograms of magazines. To add
Yours sincerely
insult to injury the power company at Saanen Air-
Andrea Scherz
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Unique.
Zbären Kreativküchen AG Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Tel. +41 (0)33 744 33 77 design@zbaeren.ch . www.zbaeren.ch Official Dealer
Saanenmöser . Gstaad . Lenk
Official Dealer
FAVOURITE PLACES BY MARK VAN HUISSELING
MY BAR
it, got into a fight with Ernesto Bertarelli about his wife Kirsty. Not true, Taki told me, the former Olympian Juodka merely fell off his bar stool when Ernesto walked by (however, he added, Kirsty would have been worth a fight, she was wearing a dress which had the square footage of a postage stamp). I ordered a glass of Bordeaux–I know, it’s not some-
Early on a Monday evening last January I was in the
thing you should necessarily order when there is a
Gstaad area, with time to kill. I wondered if anyone
good bartender around. And I had a Club Sandwich,
I knew was in town and went to the obvious place:
not the standard one according to the recipe: it
the Lobby Bar at the Palace Hotel. If someone I
doesn’t use chicken, it uses turkey, but more impor-
knew was here, he’d definitely be there! I drove up
tantly, it tastes nice. In other words: I was being
the Oberbort and went into the large hall – which
well looked after, properly fed and happy. (Did I say
has, by the way, a dress code (no caps, no polo-
that I didn’t have to bother thinking about opening
shirts, no ripped jeans – you couldn’t agree more). A
hours? The Lobby Bar is open all hours). Now, why
fire was burning in the huge fireplace, as you would
did I come here? Right, to find out if somebody I
expect, and since many places on the sofas and arm-
knew was in town. And, surely, that somebody was
chairs were taken, I took a seat where you are sup-
in town. And, even more surely, he was at the Lobby
posed to take one if you are a man about town and
Bar (who he was I’ll keep to myself, because bars
on your own: at the bar.
are as much about privacy as about alcohol). And, one more good thing: The Lobby Bar is accompa-
I like the large bar, with its array of matchbooks
nied by an extraordinarily fine hotel which I also
from bars and restaurants all over the world, col-
happen to like.
lected by Ernst Scherz, the current manager’s father, and neatly laid out under a glass cover. The bar is
The Lobby Bar · Palacestrasse 28 · CH-3780 Gstaad
tended by Gildo and his Italian-speaking staff; it’s
+41 (0)33 748 50 00
where my friend Taki Theodracopulos, legend has
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made of finest wood Andreas Kolly is like the material his sledges are made of: straight and true. With unfailing enjoyment the young man from Gstaad makes winter sports equipment that gets shipped as far as Russia. His work is mainly a manual craft and is always done with a joke or two: “I work during the day, the wood works at night.”
It has to be “level, no second grade stuff,” he says about the wood, and adds that it should ideally come from the surrounding woodlands. Only with that kind of material, says 32-year-old Andreas Kolly, can he build the perfect “Saanen-Geissschlitten”, the traditional sledge that has been produced in this region for generations. “From twisted or lopsided trunk wood I stay well away,” he says with irrepressible cheer. His delight in his craft is even bigger than the monstrous carpenter’s pencil he carries, stuck behind his ear. Kolly’s workshop has been producing sledges since 1932.
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His great-grandfather Gottlieb Dubi built the house
against the walls are numerous battens, thin strips
and workshop, with wood of course, as he was a
of wood that have been cut in preparation. “It then
cartwright. There used to be two family members
takes me a day to assemble one sledge. Most of the
sawing and sanding, “but I get by as a one-man
parts are mortised, a few are screwed – none are
band,” says the young businessman in his broad
glued, that is a matter of honour, a question of pro-
local dialect. The belles in his pin-up calendar on
fessional pride,” says Kolly. Every year he sells
the wall silently keep him company. In addition to
around 20 one- and two-seaters, and for the latter
sledges, Kolly also manufactures tools for farmers
he charges about 400 Swiss francs. Until 1986, there
such as shafts for rakes and sickles, as well as gar-
was a local cartwrights’ association which gathered
den fences. “Orders aren’t always aplenty, but it’ll
once a year to discuss pricing. “But these days we
do for a modest chap like me,” he jokes. Then the
too are subject to price-fixing regulations.”
craftsman is back on the subject of materials science. Flexible ash wood is the best for sledges, says
Sledge making is manufacture, with a few excep-
Kolly, and he will preferably use wood that has been
tions. Kolly uses two or three small machines, and
cut down in winter and at full moon. “There is less
also a heavy cast iron band saw, which several peo-
risk of rot, and also it is less likely to be infested
ple have tried to “pilfer” in the past. “I have been of-
with woodworm,” he says. And for all those who
fered a brand new one to replace it, but so far I have
think that this bit of wisdom is straight from a fairy
always declined.” As long as something works this
tale, he adds “that has been definitely proven. Ash is
shrewdly calculating worker won’t give it away.
also a material that neither swells nor tears.” Saw-
“Keep the costs down and so keep track of things,” is
dust lies everywhere finger thick, and leaning
one of his principles.
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That is also why he hasn’t fixed the workshop ceil-
He talks about the time when the only way to bend
ing, which sports two gaping holes because occa-
wood was in the hot steam rising from a wash tub,
sionally something “leaps up”. And in actual fact,
and about how he never produces any rejects in his
he says, even the two fire extinguishers in the work-
sledge-making work. Sometimes he also mends a
shop are a luxury, being as he isn’t a smoker.
double bass for one of the traditional folk music bands in the region. And finally he declares that he
Kolly’s snow sledges – a little wider than a Davos
would never emigrate from the valley, regardless of
sledge and with flat runners instead of round ones –
what may happen. The sledge maker is rooted to his
last “a lifetime”. They are available either untreated
home valley, a “likeable fellow”. Is he the kind of
or varnished, and can be made to order or even en-
guy who gets served three coffees with Schnaps
graved. The whole world wants one: “Last year I
when he delivers something in Gstaad? “No way,
even sent one to Russia.” There are currently no fa-
that sort of thing is history,” he says without com-
mous buyers in his order books, but he knows that
plaint. “These days you are more likely to be asked
his grandfather once delivered to winter sports afi-
for a discount on the bill.” Kolly laughs heartily.
cionados like Gunter Sachs. “A good guy, it’s a pity
The man is made of good stuff: straight and true.
he’s no longer around.” Three other sledge makers still operate in the Saanen valley, but when Kolly is out and about on the pistes he always recognizes his own creations among all the others, “although they don’t carry a serial number,” he says, and hooks his thumbs behind his trouser braces with quiet pride.
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Text: Roland Falk Photography: Carl Knobel
WALO THE CHEESE MAKER Alpine cheese is a unique natural product, unadulterated, tasty and healthy. The secret behind it? Clean air, changing weather and over a hundred herbs and grasses that are eaten by the cows when they feed and so get into the milk. Add to this much love and patience from the cheese maker.
S
Standing outside her wooden alpine hut high above the Gsteiger valley Erika Perreten greets me from afar. Their small house is straight out of a picture book – authentic and pretty. Enormous bells hang
from the roof beams. “We use these to adorn the cows during their traditional festive descent from
the alpine summer pastures. Up here they wear the small bells, so we can find them even in thick fog.” I
notice the huge white pieces of material that are
hanging up to dry. Strange bed linen, I think to myself. “Those are cheese cloths,” says Erika. I see.
And I’d thought that as a real Swiss I knew everything about life in the mountains. Talkatively, Erika
leads me through the hut where I feel at home straight away. The room is low and my head almost
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touches the wooden ceiling. The floor, walls and
bread and coffee. Unbelievable how good fresh milk
furniture are all made of wood. Small windows
products taste! We also eat three-year-old Saanen
allow some daylight to penetrate. An enormous
cheese from Walo’s alp. “It takes three months be-
copper kettle hangs in the corner. A wood fire is
fore I know whether my cheese will be a success. If
heating up the 460 litres of milk that Walo Perreten
by then no bad fermentation has occurred I will
is carefully stirring with the cheese harp. The likea-
leave it to ripen in the cellar for years. Just like a
ble farmer radiates serenity and contentedness, just
fine Bordeaux,” he says mischievously.
like the landscape around him. He is intent on his work. “It’s no good rushing or taking short cuts
Sitting at the home-made wooden table, Walo tells
when you’re making cheese,” he says and puts his
me that this is the fifty-second year in succession
tool aside. An electric stirrer will now take over his
that he is spending the summer on the Walig alp. A
work. It is time to have lunch, even though it is only
wonderful privilege, he says. “The simple life up
just gone ten. Up here on the alp nature dictates the
here is uncomplicated.” Don’t Walo and his wife
working rhythm, the other way round doesn’t work.
Erika sometimes long for a different life style? No,
Erika serves up yoghurt, meringues with cream,
they wouldn’t want to swap with anyone.
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Life up on the alp can be hard at times, they say, es-
we are far removed from the everyday world – yet
pecially during longer periods of rain or early snow-
we are still in the midst of it. After a profound con-
fall, when the clothes and bed linen remain damp
versation about the elementary aspects of life it is
for days. But those things pass. “Much of what ap-
now time to lift the curd cheese out of the copper
pears important down in the valley loses its signifi-
kettle using cloths. The doughy mass is pressed into
cance up here. Perhaps because at 1800 metres
four wheels of 11 kilos each. The enthusiasm and
above sea level we are above it all, so to speak.” From
dedication with which the Perretens carry out their
his hideaway lodge, cheese maker Walo sometimes
work is addictive. Spontaneously I decide to lease
ponders recent developments. With a frown he tells
one of their cows. For this I will receive 10 kilos of
us that these days many of the cattle breeds are so
healthy alpine cheese at the end of the season. And
over bred and degenerated that they are no longer
with it a wonderful reminder of a unique encounter.
fit for life in nature. “We had two cows up here from the lowland. They were used to concentrated feed. On our pastures they ate fresh grass and herbs for the first time. They died of it!” Up on the Walig alp
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baergheimet.ch Text: Damian Zingg Photography: Hannes Kirchhof
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TRADITION Source Well, it’s true: these indestructible companions are not easy to find. And they are becoming rarer with every passing year. But with a bit of luck one might still find an original Rubi rucksack hidden away in a secondhand shop, or perhaps even up in granddad’s loft. Or I can recommend a trip to Hans-Peter Urwyler in Oey, near Diemtigen. Following the death of Peter Rubi in 1987 Urwyler still produces – to a high quality – the Rubi ruck sack, in accordance with the original patterns. Thus a visit to his workshop is well worth the while.
THE RUBISACK
MADE WITH LOVING ATTENTION TO DETAIL
The figure ‘78’ punched into the leather tag con-
they were joined by hikers and the hunting frater-
firms that it is the year in which the rucksack was
nity. The Rubi rucksack became famous, and much
manufactured. This 30-some-years old piece of
sought after. Those who had one were unlikely ever
craftsmanship from Peter Rubi’s saddlery in Meirin-
to part with it. Even on a Himalayan expedition in
gen in the Bernese Oberland, was created with lov-
1953 the Rubi-Sack was a valuable companion of the
ing attention to detail and from fine materials.
participants. That was surely also due to its well thought out features and indestructible materials.
It was in 1950 that the trained saddler Peter Rubi
Peter Rubi was particularly proud of that aspect,
opened his business on the high street of the pictur-
and ensured his rucksacks were of the best quality
esque town of Meiringen. Situated in one of the
and sound workmanship. All leather parts were sewn
most wonderful winter sports and hiking regions in
by hand, nothing was secured with studs, and the
the heart of Switzerland, the village lies at the foot
edges were treated with a solution of gum arabic
of various passes that give access to the surround-
and then polished smooth. The zips were made
ing mountain ranges. It was probably not just the
from steel and the “bunch” at the top was laced
proximity to those much loved mountains that in-
with leather straps. The Rubi-Sack and its inventor
duced Rubi to pursue his profession in this location,
have one thing in common: they are both authentic
but also the fact that it was an ideal place from
and people still speak well of them long after their
which to serve and advise his potential customers:
time. (leo)
skiing instructors and mountain guides in particular were the first to appreciate the Rubi-Sack. Later
urwyler-oey.ch
EDUCATION About Le Rosey Le Rosey, founded in 1880, is the most prestigious of Swiss boarding schools. It is also unique in having a two-campus system – in autumn and summer, the exceptional facilities of the Rolle campus, and in winter its alpine campus in Gstaad. Le Rosey, which is 100% boarding, educates 400 students and employs over 120 teachers. Its mission is to teach its students to know themselves, to explore all their talents, and to realize their full potential; to raise indepen dent children with a sense of their own worth and responsibilities.
LE ROSEY
THE RIGHT START FOR LIFE
Much has been written about Le Rosey: a school for
12-14 honors students are taken on a week’s cruise
the rich and royal, the most exclusive boarding
aboard a sailing boat. The school pays for everything.
school in the world, etc, etc. As an “ancien”, I would
The week is not a vacation for the kids. Every day
describe the school as a place where interesting
there are cultural and philosophy lectures, visits to
young people can come together from all over the
historical sites, conversations on geopolitics (fo-
world, be equals (regardless of their family wealth
cused on Turkey and the Middle East) – all in addi-
or social status) and develop life-long friendships.
tion to the students’ regular studies.
Ask anyone familiar with the Le Rosey alumni network, and they will tell you that no other school like it exists in the world.
Philippe Gudin has educated thousands of students personally in his thirty years running Le Rosey. His vision of education? “Teenagers have a right to make
Le Rosey’s Directeur général, Philippe Gudin – and
mistakes; we must keep giving them our trust again
I want to be objective here in spite of our being close
and again even if they might fail to make good use of
friends – is a visionary in education. He is not an
it. And in any case, their progress in autonomy and
“in-box” sort of manager; meaning that unlike many
wisdom comes with age. We are happy when our
headmasters who deal with the problems “du jour”
students listen to us, and accept our teaching. We
that arise, he takes a larger and longer view of edu-
are also happy when they express their personality
cation. In fact, he has had so many ideas over the
and charisma by disagreeing with us.” (neb)
years that they could not all be contained within Le Rosey. One such idea was the cruise I took with the Gudins and twelve honors students. Each year
rosey.ch
THE SAGA About Rémy Martin In 1724 the winemaker Rémy Martin founded a firm in the area of Cognac in the south-west of France. Almost 300 years later the firm still bears his name and is the best selling top quality brandy maker. Stored in the firm’s ageing cellar are 1 million hectolitres of fine Champagne cognac. For over 20 years the company has been headed by Dominique Hériard Dubreuil, a descendant of the founder; today it is part of Rémy Cointreau, one of the leading wine and spirits groups.
LOUIS XIII
TWO LOVELY MASTERPIECES
These days it doesn’t always mean much when some
dealing with a masterpiece. Less clear is which of
thing is labelled as “luxury” (I have seen “luxury
the two parts is the greater masterpiece: the wine,
chicken breasts” in the frozen foods section of a
or the “skin”, so to speak. In this case the “skin” is a
supermarket). But when those responsible for the
three litre Le Jeroboam decanter made of crystal
Rémy Martin brand offer their finest cognac “Louis
glass. One could describe it thus. One could also say
XIII” for sale in a three litre bottle it is true luxury,
that Lionel Messi is a footballer. To be more precise:
without needing to be labelled as such.
the decanter is made from five kilograms of finest Sèvres crystal, hand crafted by masters of the art,
For the reddish golden brandy with its surprisingly
and every Louis XIII Le Jeroboam is individually
diverse and exceptionally fine flavour speaks for
numbered. In other words, we are not looking at
itself. Its aromas of jasmine, passion fruit, ginger
one masterpiece but two: the king of cognacs and
and nutmeg, with notes of strawflower, iris and figs,
his Le Jeroboam crystal decanter. (mvh)
following through to accents of sandalwood and honey, offer a unique experience of intense flavour. Those who can afford it know it well. What is not known however is the exact composition: that is a trade secret and has been for generations. It would not be listed on a label in any case: would Leonardo da Vinci have written “Mona Lisa” on the frame of his portrait of a young beauty? It is clear that we are
louis-xiii.com
PORTRAIT ABOUT GILDO BOCCHINI
MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL If modesty had a name, then it would be Bocchini, Gildo Bocchini. “I am not a posturer,” says the maître d’hôtel of the Palace, which first opened its doors in 1913. Bocchini’s only apparent extravagance is a pair of maize yellow glasses from London, which make a contrast to his bow tie and midnight blue work suit, and give his appearance a personal note. Bocchini is a genuine character and has been an indispensable part of the establishment since the sixties. His broken German remains a clear indication of his Italian heritage. “I was born by the sea, but the mountains are my home,” says the 63-year-old, who is known to scores of illustrious guests as “Mr Gildo” and as someone who can be counted on. Kings, divas, presidents, musicians – “I have no idea how many people I have greeted here at the Palace,” he says, and though he likes to list his “Who’s Who” he is always discreet and never reveals any provocative details. Roman Polanski likes risotto, he simply says, and Roger Moore, who lived in Gstaad for a long time, is more enthused by the hotel’s ravioli. Mr Gildo is aware of “almost every like and dislike” of his regular clientele and can remember innumerable encounters. He relates how at one New Year’s Eve party John Travolta sang, accompanied by the hotel orchestra, and at another it was the rock singer Bono from U2. The financier George Soros and King Gustaf of Sweden both praised his chefs and waiters, a team which during the winter season counts almost 60 staff.
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“All praise gives me a lot of strength. Once I even received a thank you letter from a 91-year-old cardinal,” says Mr Gildo, adding that “no amount of money” could ever lure him away from his job. “While working here I have learnt more about people than any university could teach me.” He has served Liz Taylor, Caroline of Monaco, Gunter Sachs, many members of the nobility, never any plebs. “Our guests are cultured and civilized, many of them are also important voices on our planet.” He’s not encountered any snobs he says, well, ok, a few perhaps, “you could count them on one hand”. On occasion the maître d’hôtel receives invitations from celebrities, but he politely refuses them. “I keep my distance. And I never forget my social
standing. It is my job that is important, not me.” On
in the legendary cinema film “The Pink Panther”. A
one occasion, however, Mr Gildo was the star. Every
keen dancer and amateur tenor, he tells how in the
autumn the British Sunday Times selects the best
film he is “seen briefly, whizzing about in our hotel
restaurant manager, and in October 2010 it was Mr
disco, GreenGo”. Mr Gildo smiles a lot, gently and
Gildo who was awarded this distinction.
forgivingly. “I have seen behind countless facades.” Some of what he observes among his guests he
His boss Andreas Scherz travelled to London with
notes down in a black booklet. Can I take a look?
his family to attend the award, and actor Michael
“No chance,” he says, the epitome of integrity, and
Caine was one of the well-wishers. They dined at
behind the maize yellow glasses his eyes have a mis-
The Belfry run by Anton Mosimann, “who is the
chievous gleam.
same age as me and also is never seen without a bow tie”. There was no trophy and no prize money, just a certificate, “and I didn’t even bother hanging it up in my flat.” But you can tell that he was over the
palace.ch Text: Roland Falk Photography: Carl Knobel
moon about it. Just like the time when he appeared
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HEAVENLY S
SENSATIONS When people talk of a spa they rarely carry images of a fireplace in their mind. This author does though. For him the fireside is the ideal place in which to yield to the lightness of being, listening to the crackle of the fire with a glass of herbal tea and looking forward to a relaxing visit to the Hammam.
V 40
Via a wooden footbridge I enter a space where stone and wood predominantly set the tone, in keeping with the mountains and woodlands of the surrounding Saanenland. Earthy, subtle colours impart a feeling of security and warmth. In the Black Room I am pampered with a soothing foot bath; and I have barely got used to the almost complete darkness when a friendly employee leads me away into the Endless Room. What a contrast! A room that isn’t a room, as there appear to be neither walls nor ceiling. It feels as though I am continuously drifting on a pale blue cloud, further and further towards the horizon. After massages and a floating pool which is steeped in atmospheric candlelight, I drift off into a deep contented slumber in the relaxation room.
“This is what heaven must feel like,” I briefly still
rich-based interior architect Roland Schön, and lo-
manage to think. Later, at the hotel bar, director An-
cal architect Peter Tschanz. The new complex
dreas Scherz tells me how he kept a close eye on
came to be situated under the tennis courts, along
new trends in wellness before the new spa was built.
with a new subterranean car park for 54 employees.
Wishes and suggestions from the hotel guests were
Shortly before Christmas 2007 the spa was opened.
incorporated during the planning phase. Smiling,
The range of treatments available is astonishing and
he says: “You could say that the spa at the Palace
is being extended. In collaboration with the local al-
was developed in a democratic manner.” Also typi-
pine herb producer Jardin des Monts new exclusive
cally Swiss is the focus on top quality. Never before
treatment methods are constantly being developed.
in the history of the Gstaad Palace had a bigger single investment been made: Expenditure ran to a stately sixteen million Swiss francs. Even in Gstaad such an amount is not simply taken out of the petty
palace.ch Text: Damian Zingg Photography: Tommy Picone
cash. During realization the Scherz family worked closely with spa specialist Roger Bernet, the Zu-
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ONE CENTURY IN A BOTTLE
www.LOUIS-XIII.com
APROPOS WINE BY ANDREA MAFFEI
NEVER OUT OF FASHION
is exponential? The difference between 12.5 % and 13.5 % is quite significant. Try it yourself : One evening, enjoy a bottle of a good quality Bordeaux that has 12.5 % alcohol content. The next evening, do the same but choose a New World Wine with 13.5 or 14 % of alcohol. I promise you, you will feel much better and less tipsy after the bottle of Bordeaux! In the New World, only the very top wines enjoy
Wine, with its millennial history, is still subject
a traditional and proper vinification. With today’s
to trends: Some twenty years ago, wines from the
rules and regulations, producers may add oak chips
new world such as the United States, Argentina and
to the wine, stored in huge steel barrels. This avoids
South Africa were in fashion. They are full-bodied,
buying relatively small oak barrels at a very high
round, sweet, and often taste of oak and vanilla.
cost. But the wine gets too much of the “barrique”
The alcohol content starts at 13 % and ends at a
taste and loses all its elegance. Furthermore, by
staggering 15 %. These wines are therefore often
being infused with cheap oak chips, the wine loses
considered good value for money.
the characteristics of the territory in which the grapes were grown. Compliments to you, dear guest,
If I analyze our sales statistics today, however, the
you know what to drink! Real quality will never go
demand for these strong wines has decreased,
out of fashion.
slowly but surely, during the past years. Have our guests’ palates changed or are they more knowled
Cheers and enjoy.
geable? Have the prices increased? I think it’s a combination of them all. The “ new ” factor has disappeared. More and more, our guests enjoy drinking lighter wines with less alcohol content. Did you know that the alcohol content in a wine
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HERBIE Huber – the Chef Those who know Pernet Comestibles also know that it is synonymous with unparalleled delicacies of the highest quality. But what many don’t know is that the exquisite business on the promenade is also a treasure trove of exciting stories. One of the tales I snapped up from there is about a young chef called Herbie Huber.
The story begins on a hot summer’s day in July 1962
further ado she sent a message to the management
in the kitchen of the Gstaad Palace, when Otto
of the Gstaad Palace to say she would be keeping
Schlegel, the legendary Chef de Cuisine, called all
Herbie for a few weeks.
his chefs together, looked around him and asked: “Who speaks English?” Days later a young chef in a
Thus began the craziest time in the life of the young
gleaming white cook’s uniform stood outside the
Palace chef. All of a sudden fate had cast him into
Chalet Ariel in Gstaad. When the Rolls Royce pulled
the midst of the biggest romantic drama of the time.
up and the new mistress of the house got out, his
Liz Taylor and Richard Burton had only just com-
knees began to shake. “My name is Miss Taylor,
pleted the filming of “Cleopatra” in Italy a few days
never say Mrs to me!” she said and shook the
earlier. While working on the film they had begun a
young chef ’s hand. “And I am your cook, Herbie
passionate affair. Both were married, Liz Taylor for
Huber,” he replied and went bright red. But then he
the fourth time. The scandal dominated the world
went into the plush kitchen of her chalet and
press for months. Guests came and went: David
cooked her fried saddle of pork on a skewer, which
Niven, Glenn Ford, occasionally also Liz Taylor’s
delighted Elizabeth Taylor so much that without
husband Eddie Fisher.
O
Outside, reporters from Paris Match lay in wait, mean足while in the kitchen Herbie gave his best. The
food connoisseurs of Pernet Comestibles in Gstaad, back then well-known as Grossmann Comestibles,
delivered the most delicious delicacies they could
find in the world of fine food. And Herbie cooked up magical creations. Sometimes for twenty guests, sometimes for Liz, sometimes with Liz. On one oc-
casion the two of them stood in the kitchen together
preparing breakfast, piling up pancakes and frying crispy bacon while Richard Burton still slept. Once, on a mild summer night, Liz Taylor was overcome by the strong desire for a fiery picnic. Herbie rushed
into the kitchen. Less than an hour later an open
fire flickered in a secluded meadow. And then, as so
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often, Liz Taylor sprang a surprise. For herself and
Gstaad Palace wouldn’t let him go: Someone who
Richard she chose skewered sausages and a bottle
can work magic with food belongs in the Gstaad
of simple Dézaley Ville de Lausanne. The delicacies,
Palace. Decades have since passed. Elizabeth Taylor
however, she left for Mario the driver and Herbie
and Richard Burton remain unforgotten. And so
the chef. Thus, while by the fireside the air sizzled
does the chef Herbie Huber.
between Liz and Richard, Herbie and Mario sat on the running board of the Rolls Royce enjoying Beluga caviar and drinking Dom Perignon. What more can life offer than four people in bliss on a mild
pernet.com Text: Willi Näf Photography: Marcus Gyger
summer night? Liz Taylor knew how to differentiate between the good and the excellent. When she departed weeks later she wanted to take Herbie with her to London as her personal chef. But the Chef de Cuisine at the
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PASSION for BEAUTY
and authenticity
The term “timber house” is too trivial to describe the output of Chaletbau Matti. The chalet-building firm is familiar with every possible style and knows the meaning of individuality: Standard housing is built by others.
So far Daniel Matti has been spared a knock on the
lomatic: “We talk about prices as little as we do
head. “These days a room height of 2.30 metres is
about our clients.” He prefers to expand on materials,
mandatory for chalets in Gstaad,” he says, “and that
passion and challenges. On the subject of antique
is why, at 1.98 metres, I can fit into every one of
doors, for example, or ancient artful ceiling rosettes,
them.” His height hardly serves as standard dimen-
painted or carved and adorned “with the obligatory
sion for the timber houses he constructs, but then
worm”, he can recall an endless number of details.
“standard is certainly not a keyword for our work.”
He says most of these precious items, which are often integrated into modern surroundings “we get
Chaletbau Matti is a third generation family firm
from gypsies, who search through demolished
with a focus on alpine dwellings “at the upper end
mountainside buildings for usable objects”. Much
of the market”. No house is like any other and each
of it is up to 300 years old and is brushed up by
has its own measure of discrete luxury. “Our cus-
work-intensive craftsmanship so it may live a few
tomers are neither spendthrifts nor show-offs,”
more decades. “To ensure that the doors close prop-
says the businessman. Aided by a crew of around
erly and don’t creak they are equipped with high
100 staff, he provides a start-to-finish service “from
tech elements, though these are only recognizable
the initial idea to the finished home ”. It takes
as such on close observation.” The shelf with his-
around two and a half years to create a unique Matti
toric doors is well stocked and the demand is high:
home and many of them, equipped with wellness
“They will be available for as long as we have them,”
area and pool, have an estimated value ranging in
says Matti. After all, tasteful nostalgia cannot be or-
the tens of millions. On this subject Mr Matti is dip-
dered from a catalogue.
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The firm’s showroom is an El Dorado that whets
lations that serve to protect the appearance of the
every visitor’s appetite. Alongside all manner of
village. The thick book of rules, the implementation
wood fabrications there are walls made of burgundy
of which is a science in itself, limits the use of fea-
stone and polished granite, windowpanes that turn
tures such as glass fronts, stone façades, and solar-
opaque at the touch of a button, pillars for the wine
panelled roofs on chalets. It also dictates that every
cellar and washbasins made of rare onyx marble.
building that is demolished must be replaced by one
“We can cater for any style, from rustic to futuristic,”
in the same style. For its unadulterated appearance
says Matti, while in front of him a cylinder with dis-
Gstaad has long deserved a beauty award. However,
play boards rotates electronically, showing door-
Matti and his architects and carpenters don’t need
knobs, fixtures and bathroom fittings in endless
awards or certificates to tell them that they are
variation.
doing an excellent job.
Matti dressed the smoking room in the Palace Hotel
chaletbaumatti.ch
with reclaimed, intricately detailed wood, but of course his firm also uses new wood. Founded in 1941, Chaletbau Matti is overall project-manager for the Hotel Alpina and its three accompanying chalets, which are currently under construction and classed as 5 star superior. “Eighty percent of our everyday material is pine and comes from Switzerland,” says Matti. This is in line with the strict regu-
Text: Roland Falk Photography: Grégorie Gardette
GSTAAD DARK GREEN MEADOWS, DEEP AND MYSTICAL WOODS, ROMANTIC VALLEYS, CHARMING CHALETS AND THE PROVERBIAL HOSPITALITY: NO WONDER THE SAANENLAND HAS BEEN ATTRACTING VISITORS FROM SWITZERLAND AND ABROAD FOR YEARS: A BRIEF AND PERSONAL PORTRAIT OF A DISTINCTIVE ALPINE REGION THAT FOR MANY HAS BECOME A SECOND HOME.
INSIDE
ROOTED IN TRADITION “The beautiful mountain region, blessed with many pastures” was how an early traveller’s account, handed down from the 18th century, described the Saanenland, the area that is also home to the worldrenowned holiday destination Gstaad. That early depiction did not neglect to sing the praises of the alpine cheese, and also of the fruit on offer at the market, which was imported from the Canton Valais via the mountain passes. At the time, the locals lived exclusively from livestock farming and the transporting of goods across the mountains by mule or horse. Livestock and cheese were exported, and later also wood from the mountain forests. Here and there, historic houses of that time still survive. They are expansive and richly decorated farmhouses with a typical combination of living and working sections. “A beautiful mountain region, blessed with many pastures”: that is exactly what the traveller still sees today upon reaching the gentle valley from the direction of Zweisimmen or from Lake Geneva. The topography is hilly, but there are no rugged peaks casting their shadows over the valley. Quite charming, even lovable is the Lauenen Valley with its romantic lake. It brings pleasure to any traveller. Many an old local custom also remains in use today, even though, as elsewhere, the number of farmers has declined. Traditions include the seasonal procession in which livestock is taken up to the summer pastures and back down again in autumn, both celebrated by parading the decorated cows.
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Then there are the so-called “Suufsunntige” that take place on the alp during July and August, the term indicating that plenty of drinking goes on at these Sunday events. At the heart of the celebrations, however, lie the selection of a champion cow, music and dancing. Traditions are also kept alive in the continued practice of crafts – such as woodwork, weaving and the cutting of silhouettes. The inhabitants of this area have always been known as freedom loving. In 1448 they paid to liberate themselves from the de facto rule by the Count of Greyerz and allied themselves with the strengthening city state of Berne. The Saanenland remained a free district until annexed to Berne in 1555 on legal grounds, though it continued to enjoy many rights and liberties. The Reformation, however, had been introduced despite resistance by the population, and the laws of Berne found little acceptance among the local farmers. I recall for example the tale of a farmer who liked to puff away at his pipe although this was strictly prohibited by the rigorous moral code of Berne. He was caught – and had to pay a fine equivalent to one year’s salary. There is an age-old legend that may explain this breed of people – but I write this with tongue in cheek of course. “A very long time ago,” so the tale goes, “a Friesian people, chased from their homeland by famine and floods, moved into the beautiful valleys of the Saanenland. The green mountain landscape greatly appealed to them and thus they settled therein. The green pastures were cultivated and the wild animals were chased into the mountain forests. But the Friesians were never able to forget their old homeland.
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T
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“That is why during certain nights those long dead people emerge from their graves to wander home to the far-away shores of the grey North Sea, following the very same path by which they came to these Bernese valleys. They return the same night, as soon as they have heard the roar of the sea and the thunder of the breaking waves. But woe betide those who choose to block the dead Friesians’ accustomed path, from which they will not deviate one inch! Houses and walls are then torn to shreds by the angered ghosts and everything is swept from their path, as if avalanches drove before them.� But do not fear: in the meantime the Saanenland has become a very peaceful region, where for the past century and into the present everything is done to
indulge the many visitors. Gstaad blossomed when
resort. This is ensured by strict building regulations
the Montreux-Oberland-Railway was opened in
that only allow wooden houses in the chalet style, or
1905. At the time the village had no more than 150
those that are clad accordingly. But luxury and a
inhabitants and just two hotels. In subsequent years,
high standard are allowed. This was recently demon
more and more guest apartments and hotels were
strated to me by a visit to one of the exclusive celeb-
built, including the “Palace Hotel Gstaad” in 1913.
rities’ chalets. And sure enough: from there I saw
The infrastructure was continually extended and
far across the land – into “the beautiful mountain
renewed – and Gstaad, the location of the Menuhin
region, blessed with many pastures.”
Festival and of international tennis tournaments, is definitely no longer a farming village. One thing the inhabitants of Gstaad have always
gstaad.ch Text: Konrad Tobler Photography: Raphael Faux
made sure of and also take pride in: the place should stay the way it is. In this case it means that the Saanenland should not become a soulless holiday
59
STAYING COOL
in the world of “dangerous” 60
They take off to rescue people, supply mountain
says the pilot. He founded Air Glaciers in August
huts and help with construction work. Without the
1965, together with Hermann Geiger (1914-1966),
pilots of Air Glaciers, there would be many a thing
the “eagle of Sion”. Their business has since be-
amiss in the mountains. That they are able to do
come the biggest helicopter service firm in Switzer-
their job today is down to a handful of pioneers who
land. It currently has over 25 rotary wing aircraft
fought against wind and weather, but also against
and seven fixed-wing aircraft, stationed at nine
resistance from administrative bodies and from
bases, one of which is Gstaad. The machines have
those afraid of progress.
taken off around 40,000 times to rescue mountaineers from difficult situations. The idea to offer fast help came to Bagnoud in 1963, during a tour on
The word “dangerous” does not figure in his vocab-
which a colleague suffered a fall on the Trient gla-
ulary. “Difficult or not” is how 76-year-old Bruno
cier and was left with an open femoral neck frac-
Bagnoud assesses situations in the mountains. The
ture. First of all, someone had to descend to the
affable local with snow white hair is not given to
nearest village to raise the alarm, as mobiles were
overdramatizing. “Our job requires a cool head,”
certainly not in existence at the time.
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And when Hermann Geiger flew in with a Bell 47 he
the Alouette III was stationed in Sion. “Up until
was unable to approach the scene of the accident: At
then only the army had deployed this type of heli-
over 3000 metres, the air was too thin for a helicop-
copter in Switzerland,” says Bagnoud. In addition to
ter with a conventional piston engine, and on top of
the Alouette their fleet consisted of a Pilatus Porter,
that the alpine Föhn wind was raging. The injured
bought from an Aero-Club, and two Bell helicopters,
man had to be painstakingly carried on a stretcher
on hire from the Swiss air rescue association Rega,
to a location further down before Geiger was able to
founded in 1952.
take over. After that experience Bagnoud drummed
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up enough money to buy a more powerful machine
The early days of the firm were a tough time, re-
with a turbine. At a cost of one-and-a-half million
members Bagnoud. “There was resistance from the
Swiss francs he acquired a French Alouette III, the
alpine clubs, from the population, and even from
“grande dame” among helicopters at that time. A
the Swiss aviation authority.” Without robust en-
small bank gave him 600,000 Swiss francs, the rest
thusiasm and a pioneering spirit they would never
he scraped together from friends. On the 1 August
have got through. Today Air Glaciers is an indispen-
1965 Air Glaciers became a reality, two days later
sable institution in the Bernese Oberland, not only
for recoveries but also for numerous everyday mat-
weak light of a torch on one of the faces of the Besso,
ters in alpine life. The pilots deliver goods to the
a mountain to the west of the Zinalrothorn. After
huts of the Swiss Alpine Club, release fish into
landing in Sion he organized a rescue team, and
mountain lakes, recover injured cows from alpine
then flew a helicopter back to the scene where
pastures, transport masts for new chairlifts and par-
three climbers had suffered an accident. Two of the
ticipate in avalanche control blasting. And when the
climbers were virtually unhurt, but one woman had
penthouse was built on the Palace Hotel, one of
42 fractures and had been hanging upside down on
their helicopters transported all the construction
a rope for hours. “She sends me a letter at every an-
materials up to the roof. “The range of tasks is huge
niversary of the accident,” says Bagnoud.
and we are working to capacity,” says Bagnoud. “Surprising really, as in the beginning people predicted we wouldn’t last beyond six months.” One of the missions that Bagnoud will never forget took
airglaciers.ch Text: Roland Falk Photographs: Air Glacier
place in 1971: Flying back home from the Ticino one night with the Pilatus Porter he chanced to see the
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KANDAHAR Of this much I am certain: Whether it refers to a
names such as Alpina, Cresta, or indeed Palace – and
classic model by the shoe manufacturer Kandahar,
for me they are simply the most reliable winter
or the area’s most prominent hotel and other fa-
shoes available. Without frills and extravagance,
mous houses around the globe, the name Palace
made of durable leather or fine fur, with strong-grip
represents the best in quality, but also tradition and
profile soles, waterproof and with the softest
etiquette. Values that the modern, urban person has
lambskin lining (that is why I never have
come to appreciate again, and for which he is gladly
cold feet, even at temperatures well be-
willing to spend money. Entirely in line with the
low zero). I wore my first Crestas for
credo: good money for good quality.
many years, and with great pride and much joy. And those who know
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At Kandahar in Thun-Gwatt, good quality is a mat-
that such elaborately crafted
ter of honour. Here shoemaking is still a craft, as it
shoes require more than
has been for over three-quarters of a century. Today,
130 production steps con-
as then, their shoes are of undiminished quality and
sider the prices between 800
timeless beauty. The hand-crafted models have
and 1,200 Swiss francs to be
moderate. On such matters the mother of an old friend always used to say: “To buy cheap is to buy twice.� I think she was right on that. In any case, a traditional piece of Swiss high-class workmanship should be correspondingly priced. By the way: in Gstaad the Kandahar shoes I have just praised are available at the shoe retailer Schuhhaus Romang on the promenade. (leo) kandahar.ch
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GREENGO The place to be 40 years young, legendary, unconventional and a must for the international jet set: the GreenGo is an integral part of the hip night life of Gstaad. Founded in December 1970, the nightclub is an indispensable institution in the resort town of Gstaad, and one of the uncontested attractions of the venerable Palace.
The aficionado knows the GreenGo can be counted
the premises’ colours, which still remain its defin-
on for a reliably good night out, so to speak. The
ing feature today and which gave the club its name:
club’s seventies style interior was carefully restored
green for walls and seating, orange for lighting and
in 2006. In its psychedelic ambiance well-known
decoration. A very noticeable feature is the jazzy or-
personalities mingle with regular hotel guests and
ange table lighting, dotted with thousands of mova-
those who have simply climbed up the hill to dance
ble platelets and evocative of Paco Rabanne’s
their feet off. The GreenGo has seen countless ce-
flamboyant designs. Every night it immerses the
lebrities in its lively 40-year history. Richard Burton
club in a magical light. Spherical mirrors mounted
was here, Liz Taylor, Lady Di, David Niven, Grace
on the ceiling reflect and echo the happenings on
Kelly; even the Formula 1 legend Bernie Ecclestone
the dance floor. Also integrated into the nightclub is
has been seen here. The original interior, designed
a large swimming pool. It is the ideal setting for a
specifically for the club by the then well-known
Pink Panther film. Bond actor Roger Moore was a
Swiss interior architect Teo Jakob, lends the
regular guest here, sometimes accompanied by film
GreenGo its inimitable atmosphere. Jakob chose
legend Tony Curtis.
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A
As the ‘nutty’ interior had made the GreenGo such a style icon, the Scherz family saw no reason to make any changes to the proven concept. The renovation in 2006 carefully rejuvenated the iconic club and prepared it for the 40th anniversary celebrations that took place last year. To provide followers and friends of the club with a lasting memento that can be carried anywhere, the club joined forces with Hublot on the design of a watch. The collaboration produced a wristwatch that is just as unconventional as the GreenGo itself. The model Big Bang, an impressive chronograph for men, is entirely black and is distinguishable from the base model Black Magic by a just few discrete
features. Only those in the know can tell to whom or
went to the Innocence in Danger Foundation, which
to what this special edition pays homage. Indexes,
protects children from sexual exploitation and
hands, crown and pushers carry green inlays in the
helps victims to recover from the trauma. A very
same hue as the GreenGo’s upholstery. The eight
few of the Hublot “GreenGo Edition” watches are
o’clock index is replaced with a miniature of the
still available. Anyone wanting to own one will
nightclub’s orange-coloured logo. The key to the
be able to obtain it at the Palace exclusively.
riddle? For the minute hand this position reads 40, equivalent to forty years of GreenGo. To be even more consistent Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of the famous Romandie watch makers and himself a great
greengo.ch und hublot.com Text: Timm Delfs Photography: Raphael Faux
fan of the club, decided to limit the edition to forty watches. This of course considerably restricts the circle of those who can adorn themselves with one. Number 40 was auctioned in February during a charity gala held at the GreenGo. The proceeds
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FASHION BY RALPH LAUREN
WORLD OF LUXURY When people see the environments Ralph Lauren creates with his designs, it strikes an inner chord, perhaps because he works like a writer or a film director. He combines the romance of the West, the glamour of Hollywood, the adventure of a safari, the purity of England and the ease of a modern beach house. He had a clear vision and wanted to develop products that didn’t exist and create a whole world around them. The Polo Player became one of the most iconic marks in fashion and the Preppy Look is more than just a statement to him. Everything started with a small tie collection at the end of the 60s. But he always loved clothes that were designed for a purpose – work clothes, uniforms, and the utility fabrics they were made of. A little later he designed his first fashion collection; today Ralph Lauren offers 13 different collections. The Polo shirt is still the ultimate piece however, never becoming old but moreover invented in new silhouettes and colours. The name “Polo” was created simply through his love of the sport. At all times inspired by the movement and the rhythm of the seasons, Ralph Lauren is searching for newness, diversity, and breadth of possibilities of what someone could like in a variety of worlds. “My vision continues to be as it was in the beginning. It hasn’t changed.” ralphlauren.com
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THE SOUNDS OF GSTAAD The classical music festival Sommets Musicaux de Gstaad has taken place every winter for the past eleven years. It is a showcase for successful festival organization, young talents, big names and a well rehearsed team.
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As concert-goers we often jump into a car straight
break. Every year is dedicated to a particular instru-
after the performance, then queue for the restau-
ment – 2011 to the piano, 2012 to the violin. An in-
rant, or rush home. And even if there is plenty of
formal jury then announces the winning musician,
time, it is no more than a variation on the usual
who receives financing for a CD with orchestra
rituals. Not so in Gstaad: The Sommets Musicaux
from the main sponsor, the Banque Privée Edmond
de Gstaad (SMG) is a calm, unruffled, well-crafted
de Rothschild. This is an important tool in advanc-
musical event. The concerts are followed by dining
ing the young musician’s position and profile. In the
in style, “for nine days we are festival family,” says
past the jury has proved to have a good ear: Many
Thierry Scherz, SMG’s artistic director and chief
of the young talents have since become great artists.
initiator. This intimate framework is made possible
Among them are names such as Joseph Moog, Alex-
by the organizational structure of the festival,
andra Soumm or Nicolas Atstaedt – to mention just
which has proven successful for the past 11 years.
a few. Five evening concerts are held in the Saanen
Every afternoon at four o'clock, young up-and-com-
Church – on the Friday and Saturday of the first
ing artists present their own programme in the
weekend and on Thursday, Friday and Saturday of
Gstaad Chapel. This runs for an hour without a
the following week.
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This is where the world-class artists perform, those who have already made a big name for themselves. After the concert everyone sits down to dinner in the Salle Baccarat of the Gstaad Palace. Up to 200 people will dine here together with the artists – a festive clientele, dressed up in their finery. In the Rougemont Church piano music takes centre stage. This is in part because the Romanesque church is structurally suited to it, but also because director Thierry Scherz loves the piano. One of his most treasured moments is the recital by Yaara Tal and Andreas Groethuysen, especially the Chorale Prelude by Brahms given as an encore. The post concert dinner at the CafÊ du Cerf is an intimate affair. Here, in Rougemont's oldest bistro, only around 40 to 45
people join the artists. The guests get to know each
ber exactly how any returning pianist wishes the
other informally. Casual dress is the norm, includ-
grand piano to be aligned. This uniqueness is also a
ing jeans, in line with the rustic menu: Fondue,
quality of which the main sponsor must be aware, as
Raclette, or Farmer's buffet.
it has been loyal to the event from the start. You might become a little lost to the world at the Som-
Loyalty is not only a key word for the guests and art-
mets Musicaux here in Gstaad. Sinking in to this in-
ists, the personnel too are loyal to the Sommets Mu-
timate world of concert-goers you can keep your
sicaux de Gstaad. For much of the year artistic
head clear for the music. What a precious thing in
director Thierry Scherz and his co-director Om-
these modern times.
bretta Ravessoud carry out the festival's business by themselves. A few days before the event the entire festival family joins in: page-turners, ushers, piano technicians, etc. – 17 women and men. This well re-
sommets-musicaux.com Text: Sabine Hunziker Schmid Photography: Miguel Bueno
hearsed team know how to make the artists feel at home. The piano technicians for example remem-
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THE NEW PROJECT BY SOPHY ROBERTS
TRUE LUXURY IS TO BELONG At the heart of Gstaad emerges a new icon of Swiss luxury inspired by rugged, mountain authenticity. Rarely do new contenders take on those iconic Swiss hotels that have established an entire nation’s reputation for discretion and chic mountain holidays. The Alpina Gstaad – opening December 2012 in the Bernese Alps – seeks to respect this deep heritage while delivering a new level of distinction. The hotel has been newly built in traditional alpine style. It promises not just thoughtful luxury – awardwinning Japanese cuisine from Megu, a carefully curated, Havana-inspired cigar room – but celebrates the artisanal core of the lively Saanenland culture. The Alpina’s commitment to the true Gstaad shows in every turn of the chisel, in the hewing of stone cut by hand by Swiss craftspeople, and the planting of alpine herbs in the serene, mountain-wrapped gardens. Total privacy is assured, as well as holistic treatments from Six Senses Spa and heart-quickening views from all 57 suites and rooms. Gstaad’s vibrant new heart is soon to emerge, The Alpina’s strong Swiss provenance proving that the greatest luxury is to belong. thealpinagstaad.ch
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THE WORLD AT OUR FEET
Yes, I have dined and spent the night in all sorts of
closer and closer to the deep blue, cloudless sky.
places: on cruise liners and yachts, in luxurious city
The view is unbelievable, reaching from the Saanen-
hotels and residencies. In desert oases and jungle
land right up to the glaciers of the Diablerets massif.
lodges. And recently I was invited to have lunch in
We get out, take a deep breath, marvel at the sights,
an alpine hut high above the Saanenland. It was a
and arrive in a completely different world. Time-
completely new experience and a wonderful one, too.
lessness spreads around us. The peace of this secluded mountain world immediately transfers itself to one’s inner being. Seated outside the cosy hut,
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Just a minute ago my mobile was ringing continu-
aperitif in hand, I hear how the director Andreas
ously and e-mails were arriving as thick and fast as
Scherz searched far and wide until he was able to
the aircraft at the Singapore Changi Airport. Weary
realize his dream up here. He wanted to offer his
of the accessories of modern life, we are driven by
guests an exclusive alpine experience in a local tra-
the chauffeur of the Palace Gstaad along a lonely
ditional mountain hut. After managing to secure a
track that leads us high up to the Walig hut. We pass
lease on the Walig hut, he deliberately chose to keep
the tree line and then leave it far behind, coming
renovation works to a sensitive minimum. Thus the
building, which was erected in 1786, has largely re-
is produced less than five minutes walk away by
mained in its original condition and the rooms are
cheese maker Walo Perretten. The tables are deco-
charmingly authentic and simple. There is only cold
rated with pots of edelweiss, probably the most fa-
spring water, which cheerfully babbles from the
mous of all alpine flowers. Far below in the valley
fountain outside the house. Hot water can be boiled
the distinctive towers of the Gstaad Palace greet us
up on the old wood-fired iron stove. Those inter-
from afar. Up here the alpine life close to nature,
ested can book the adventure package and spend
down there five star luxury: An exhilarating, memo-
the night in the cosy bedroom. This is particularly,
rable contrast.
though not exclusively, suited to a very special kind of honeymoon. Leisurely we sit in front of the Walig hut and savour
walig-hut.ch Text: Damian Zingg Photography: Felice Scoccimarro
the delicious Swiss luxury picnic specially prepared for us by the hotel kitchen. With it we enjoy a good Swiss wine and some local alpine cheese. The latter
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RIEDEL’S WORLD OF GLASSES Time Magazine and wine guru Robert M. Parker are agreed: Without the glasses from Tyrolean firm Riedel wine wouldn’t taste half as good. Of course for lay persons such a statement is very polarizing. Fact is though that Claus Riedel started experimenting with wine and glass in the 1950s. He was the first to explain the interaction of form, size and edge diameter of a glass, and to define their role in the enjoyment of wine. The aim was to optimally convey the wine’s scent and aroma to the wine drinker’s senses. In 1961 Riedel presented his findings, emphasizing that functional, not aesthetic aspects should define wine glass fashion. Since then the famous Riedel glasses have been helping to make wine drinking a reliably pleasant experience. Yet wine glasses by Riedel are also beautiful: longstemmed, smooth, undecorated and thinly blown. And of course functional, with a great effect on the wine. In the early 70s the manufacturer introduced the individually blown and hand finished “Sommeliers” series. It was a ground breaking concept, which went on to receive numerous international prizes and permanently changed the world of wine glass manufacture. Today almost all of the series are produced mechanically, including the well-known “ Vinum ” series. This means that the sought after glasses are affordable for almost everyone. Well done, Mister Riedel. (leo)
riedel.com and riedelandfriends.ch
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PHOTOGRAPHY & ART BY HANNES SCHMID
THE MOST FAMOUS COWBOY
photographs, I paint pictures in oil on canvas and, in this way, I turn the photograph into the original. By then repeating the photographic process, I am playing another game with our senses. This confirms that the photograph alone stimulates the various levels of perception of representation and reality in the observer. The picture first enters our awareness boldly and simply and then penetrates into our depths. This shifting relationship between representation in photographs and in paintings could be
More than an invention, the Marlboro cowboy is
pursued further and ultimately lays bare the nature
a mythic figure. What intrigues me is to look into
of the world as malleable.
coteries, into private, closed groups and to analyze their social behavior patterns, thus introducing the
I am not interested in the fleeting glance out the win-
viewers to those groups’ rituals. I do this without
dow as the world rushes by. My pictures are meant
judgment, but with respect; I am not their judge but
to affect us; they are intended to make a difference.
rather one of them. For me, a picture’s value lies in
They stimulate our senses and evoke nostalgic feel-
its impact. My heroes, representatives of a unique
ings. Viewing the pictures in succession leads to a
world, are likable, and viewers can easily imagine
sense of defamiliarization and this makes the cow-
themselves belonging to them, to their world. In-
boy all the more into a mythic image.
deed, questions regarding one’s own personal reality do not even arise. The cowboy is an archetypal figure
hannesschmid.ch
from the world of dreams and serves as a shining example or hero. Not only in his native land but all over the world, he embodies the desire for freedom and thus symbolizes a longed-for masculine way of life. Even in a detailed view, the cowboy’s iconic attributes remain clearly recognizable. Starting with
85
flying high riding low Les Diablerets, 1200m above sea level. Behind me lies the Col du Pillon, and ahead of me another five kilometres of ascent. Now comes the moment of truth. The first ramps are steep and demand everything I have. I change up a gear and pedal even harder. Road markings rush past me, then a building site in a clearing. A workman sees me only from behind and in a husky voice calls out the name of the Spanish cycling legend: Indurain! A waterfall tumbles spectacularly over a rock face. The top of the pass and the “Glacier” cable car station are now only two kilometres away. I speed up again, the mountain hospice is in sight – I’ve done it! Journey time: 16 minutes. Average speed: 19 km/ h. The winner of the Tour de France stage to the Alpe d’Huez only travelled three kilometres per hour faster than this. A glance at the bike: I had left my trusted racing bike down in the valley and cycled up the mountain with an electric bike. The Flyer e-bike was not only the first electric bike on the market, it is also the most reliable of its kind:
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“The Flyer has no teething problems,” confirms Fredy Wälti, the owner of “Fredy’s Bikewält” in Gstaad and a specialist in e-bikes. “It works in summer and winter, doubles the rider’s strength, and guarantees premium mobility for young and old.” This morning I still thought of myself as a real hardcore amateur racing cyclist, not a cycling tourist. Amateur racing cyclists devour kilometre after kilometre of tarmac, in the rain, dust and heat. Their legs are as hard and light as aluminium. Their bronzed skin shimmers in the morning light of the Saanenland as the sun rises over the Rinderberg, providing another fantastic cycling day between Saanen and the Lauenensee, or Gstaad and the dreamy Turbach valley. Those who have such a
close relationship with their racing bike tend to
of their men-folk, and virtual novices complete a
maintain a healthy scepticism towards e-bikes. But
100 km lap. The cycling pleasure is not entirely
Fredy just laughs and points to a classic C-series
effort-free, however: you still have to pedal. But
model with curved frame: “A German holidaymaker
riders are rewarded with feeling like true moun-
once said this was a bike for wimps!” Now BikeTec
taineers and they all return with misty-eyed smiles
has extended the product range and also builds
on their faces. Thanks to the sophisticated cycling
e-mountain bikes and e-racing bikes.
network around Gstaad cyclists can easily change the battery en route. This guarantees all day cycling
This way, the daredevils of the mountain biking
pleasure in the beautiful Saanenland; whether out
fraternity also benefit. The times when e-bikes
of scepticism or curiosity, it is well worth a try.
were just for pensioners are gone: “In Gstaad you’ll see the young professional cycling to the office in the morning without breaking into a sweat, while an older woman transports her shopping home by
flyer.ch and bikewaelt.ch Text: Lukas Tonetto Photography: Christof Sonderegger
bike,” says Fredy. These days the women race ahead
89
Dear Guests and Friends, Welcome back to our beautiful region. It has been a busy year for Gstaad, in terms of renovations, constructions and new projects. At the Palace Every season, the Palace and its entire team strive to create something that will amaze even our most discerning clients. For instance, Peter Wyss, our head chef, spends his time and effort researching and testing new dishes to excite your palates. The Restaurant, the Gildo’s, the Grill and the Fromagerie will be hosting his creations. As every year, there will be exciting events and attractions for children. These will be disclosed in our Winter “Highlights”. Also, not to be missed, are all the wonderful exhibitions, cocktails and dinners that will be offered. The Palace Spa awaits you, with its treatments by L. Raphael, Sisley and CinqMondes. We recently started a new collaboration with a small local company called “Jardin des Monts”, the mountain herbalist of the Pays-D’Enhaut. All their products are made from locally- and organicallygrown plants, and this winter, with our collaboration, they will be offering a bespoke treatment solely for us. Another novelty this winter: a treatment called Tulayoga. Louka Leppard, the founder, will be offering a limited number of sessions. The name Tulayoga originates from the Sanskrit word meaning
90
“Balance Yoga”. The treatment focuses on achieving perfect posture coupled with an experience of surrender, a moment of pure relaxation, as gravity and the skill of the practitioner effortlessly bring you into alignment. Simply put, it is amazing! The Pilates Studio, owned and run by Natasha Lutz, also has something new: It is impossible not to notice its latest addition. Based on the principles of expansion, building strength through muscle release and re-patterning, Gyrotonic incorporates three-dimensional and circular movements in order to mobilize both the spine and joints, increasing the natural range of motion. Refurbishment The global economy has entered a new phase, activity is weaker and irregular, and confidence is at its lowest. With a forecast such as this, we can only strive to continuously improve in order to keep our guests happy. In many cases these transformations are not always visible, but they are necessary, such as a new central cooling system for our fridges, an upgrade of our fire detection system or new kitchen furniture: simple things, but costing over half a million francs. As for what is visible, last spring we redecorated ten rooms, with three more this autumn as well as two guest corridors. The most costly transformation this year was a new entrance to our Spa and GreenGo. The famous Red Door no longer exists; however, the new access is lighter, more practical and – most important –
easier to negotiate in bad weather. In 2012, we will be redecorating our Lobby, but with great care, so as not to disturb its magical atmosphere! Friends of the Palace What is new with the hotels of the region? The Wellness & Spa Hotel Ermitage will be re-opening after a total renovation. All the public areas have been totally rebuilt, and the number of rooms has been increased. Very exciting indeed. Our favorite family place, Hotel Arc-enCiel, will be celebrating its 50th anniversary. I am sure that you will join us in wishing Christiane Matti and her dedicated team all the very best. The Grand Hotel Park presents its iceskating rink. It was built as a wink to the hotel’s history, so that skating fans can enjoy the comfort of their favorite sport without leaving the warm cocoon of the hotel. At the Grand Chalet, Steve Willié was named by Bilanz, the Swiss business magazine, as “Swiss Hotel Chef of the Year 2011”. His food has truly proved to be culinary art. Ivan Letzter, the former unmistakable sommelier from the famous Chesery restaurant, takes over the management of the Rialto restaurant, transforming it into a pleasant bistro. The renowned Buchs brothers bring fresh food to Saanen in their new “16 Art-Bar-Restaurant”. In a 200-year-old chalet, where famous cowbells were
produced, they have installed a cosy, arty, contemporary yet antique dining experience. The menu of the day is what they feel like. But who cares when the quality is top and the wine list even better. Try it, you will be enchanted. Local News Since last spring, the Gstaad Saanenland Tourist Office has had a new director. Martin Bachofner, with his finance and media background, was chosen over 43 candidates to head our tourism organization. Did you know that winter sports can be pursued in Gstaad from the end of October to the beginning of May? Mountain Rides offer winter sports guests a total of 220 km of well-prepared pistes. 60% of the main slopes will be covered with artificial snow, thus increasing the guarantee of snow. Snow might have been a problem in the past; however, considerable investment means that Gstaad will continue to remain the marvelous ski region that it is. There is now a new, annual mountain rides pass. Those guests wishing to buy a winter 2011/2012 season ticket can include the entire summer season of 2012 for just an additional CHF 100.— Have you tried hiking up the mountains in the summer? It is absolutely exhilarating, as this region is just too beautiful for words! So this is an offer that is really worth considering. Furthermore, all children under the age of 9 can travel for free on all mountain lifts throughout the year.
Shopping We would like to remind our guests that our region has an amazing offer in terms of shopping, from the most sought-after designer pieces in Gstaad by Ralph Lauren, to Lorenz Bach, Star Design, Prada, Trois Pommes and Antonella, not forgetting the jewelers, like Chopard, Cartier and Grima. Graff of London will bring the choice of diamonds in Gstaad to another level, by opening a boutique at the Park Hotel. We are seeing a new trend in watch boutiques: Hublot, the innovative and prestigious watchmaker from Geneva, opens its own stylish boutique next to the Moncler shop. Last September Breguet opened a large store close to the station. And then, for a more authentic offer, please do not forget to visit the village of Saanen. Now that the tunnel has been built, it is easy to just by-pass it; however, if it is local and authentic you are looking for, this is certainly your desti nation. Rougemont also has much to offer, and there you will find, amongst other things, Tamara’s Design showroom. Owned and run by Tamara Sessa, a regular of Gstaad from birth, her taste in interior design is impeccable. The Saanenland, together with the Pays D’Enhaut, has so much to offer, that we hope that you will enjoy every moment of your visit. Laura Scherz
www.davidoff.com
Apropos Cuisine BY PETER WYSS
PASSIONATE ABOUT COOKING
veal jus. Bring to the boil for a short time and finish off with butter and lemon zest. Briefly sear the veal cheeks and cook them in the sauce for about two hours. Next, sear the veal escalopes, cook in the oven until the core temperature has reached 57 degrees (around 10 minutes with the oven at 160°C) then halve them lengthwise. Sprinkle with a little Fleur du sel and arrange the meat on the plates. Garnish with rosemary and serve with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables such as chanterelle
In the age of McDonald’s and home delivery pizzas,
mushrooms, spinach, carrots with tops, and green
cooking is somewhat at risk of becoming a forgotten
beans. Finish with crisps made from black salsify or
skill. This is a pity! For cooking has much to do with
purple Violette potatoes.
passion and enjoyment and should not just be seen as the simple preparation of food. Ever since the
Ingredients for 4 persons
time of Lucullus, antiquity’s most famous gourmet,
4 veal cheeks (80 g), cleaned and prepared
it has been common knowledge that good eating
2 veal escalopes (250 g), sinews and fat
and drinking increases well-being and benefits the
removed
spirit. Moreover, cooking is very easy. Given the
10 g tomato puree
right recipes anyone can do it. Why not join in with
60 g diced brunoise vegetables with celery,
the cooking and see for yourself: I hope you enjoy
red & yellow carrots, leeks, onions,
my recipe for Simmental escalope and veal cheeks
½ clove of garlic to taste
with rosemary:
50 g plum tomatoes, diced 100 ml dry Swiss white wine (Vinzel)
Briefly sauté the finely diced vegetables in a sauté
50 ml light veal stock
pan with some good olive oil. Add garlic, tomato
2 00 ml veal jus (not dark)
puree and the chopped plum tomatoes and deglaze
30 g butter
with the dry white wine. Add the pale veal stock and
2 g grated lemon zest; ‘Fleur de sel’ sea salt
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PERRIER-JOUËT
BICENTENARY
About Daniel Arsham The acclaimed young American artist blurs the boundaries between nature and architecture in order to expose the sublime beauty of both by recombining and deconstructing its constituent parts. Inspired
CHAMPAGNE AND THE BELLE EPOQUE
by Perrier-Jouët’s remarkable history, Daniel Arsham has created a tribute to the iconic wine, a powerful artwork showcasing two magnums of Belle Epoque 1998 in twin sculpted blocks.
He was a handsome young Frenchman, passionate
of the last century he designed the famous bottle
about wine. She was Dutch, charming, and with im-
Belle Epoque with its golden-edged, swirling white
peccable taste. Two centuries ago, Nicolas Perrier
anemones, the iconic emblem of the house. Today,
and Adèle Jouët fell in love – the beginning of a won-
the American artist Daniel Arsham honours the
derful love story, and the creation of one of the most
200th anniversary of Perrier-Jouët, creating a mas-
prestigious houses of Champagne: Perrier-Jouët.
terpiece of oenological, artistic and epicurean pleas-
The young couple were joined not only by love for
ure. The twin sculpted blocks hold the 1998 vintage
each other, but also by their love for the vineyards of
champagne Belle Epoque Magnum and fit snugly
Champagne and for the wine that has been likened
together through the reinterpreted version of Emile
to stars in a bottle. From the very beginning, the
Gallé’s anemone motif. Only one hundred pieces
house embarked on an uncompromising pursuit of
will be produced and each future owner will receive
quality, related to the superb quality of the vine-
the first half of the work, containing one of the mag-
yards, and the experience and knowledge of its cel-
nums. Its twin will be safely stored in a private cellar
lar master. Making champagne is an art, and in its
in the historic Perrier-Jouët cellars, until its future
long history, Perrier-Jouët has had just seven cellar
owner elects to collect it. (red)
masters. Each one of them was trained by their predecessor to ensure that the secret of their art
perrier-jouet.com
was passed on. A great wine needs a great artist to express its philosophy and beauty. The famous French Art Nouveau glass artist Emile Gallé was one of the first artists to work with Perrier-Jouët. At the beginning
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HOTEL About the area The county of Hampshire, bordering on Sussex and Surrey in the east, gets its name from the Old English. It means “meadow landscape rich in water”. The modern harbour city of Southampton originally went by the name of “Homtun”, meaning “the farm in the river plain”. Also part of Hampshire is the New Forest National Park. It is one of the oldest woodlands in the United Kingdom and was declared a royal woodland for deer hunting by William the Conqueror in 1079.
CHEWTON GLEN
LUXURY IN BRITISH FASHION
This is what dreams are made of. This is how the
Although much time has passed since then, Chewton
stressed and hectic urbanites would like their stay
Glen, with its genial traditions, natural friendliness
in the countryside to be. Genteel Englishness, with
and English hospitality still remains one of the most
a decorous touch of luxury, surrounded by unspoilt
distinguished addresses in all of Britain.
nature and soothing peace. Ivy-clad stonework, sage green shutters, never-ending lawns and a won-
The large estate lies on the edge of the New Forest
derful flower garden welcome the guest to Chew-
National Park and is only a few minutes’ walk from
ton Glen. And in bad weather the hall, aglow with
the sea. Chewton Glen is typically English, and thus
the blaze and crackle of the open fire, is the perfect
has a 9-hole golf course sited virtually behind the
place to enjoy a cosy afternoon with a good book.
house. The surrounding area is one of the most historically important regions of Britain and is home to
The well-known author Captain Frederick Marryat,
numerous places of interest. There is a vast array of
who wrote his novel “The Children of the New For-
possible activities on offer here – from a leisurely
est” at Chewton Glen in 1847, was an early admirer
walk in the New Forest to a trip to the beautiful me-
who appreciated the feeling of comfort and well-be-
dieval cathedral of Salisbury, or to Stonehenge – one
ing afforded by this elegant and luxurious country
of the world’s most famous prehistoric sites. (leo)
house. Even back then this was a special place and for Marryat an inspiration for his wonderful tales.
chewtonglen.com
IMPRINT
Title Journal Gstaad Palace Editor Gstaad Palace Media rights Leo Verlag Zügnisstrasse 34 CH-8143 Stallikon +41 (0)44 700 56 66 +41 (0)79 423 31 32 info@leoverlag.ch Circulation 6000 copies per issue Published Once per year – December Distribution Subscribers Surgeries Banks Beauty & Wellness Boutiques Chalets in Gstaad Specialist shops Hotel guests Partner network Subscription One issue per year CHF 12.– including postage +41 (0)33 748 50 00 info@palace.ch Printed by Swissprinters Zürich AG Zürcherstrasse 39 CH-8952 Schlieren Litho Victoria Iwaszkowska Paper Planojet, white, offset matt Cover 300 gm2/content 140 gm2 Cover pictures Gstaad Palace
Design Stilecht Visuelle Kommunikation Andreas Panzer SGD Poststrasse 3 CH-7000 Chur +41 (0)81 250 48 36 info@stilecht.ch Translations Astrid Freuler astridfreuler@tiscali.co.uk Editing Louise Stein Textpflege info@textpflege.ch Texts Ned Brown Roland Falk Timm Delfs Mark van Huisseling Sabine Hunziker Schmid Leo Andrea Maffei Willi Näf Sophy Roberts Andrea Scherz Hannes Schmid Konrad Tobler Peter Wyss Damian Zingg Photos Miguel Bueno Raphael Faux Grégorie Gardette Gregory Gilbert-Lodge Marcus Gyger Reto Guntli Hannes Kirchhof Carl Knobel Peter Knup Tommy Picone Felice Scoccimarro Christof Sonderegger For some articles the publisher has made use of picture material provided by the relevant firms.
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