www.juunj.com
C ONTENTS PROFILES A d a m K i m m e l / Ma t h e w Ha r d i n g 1 4 Ga z e l l e 1 6 T h e P o lya m o r o u s A f fa i r 1 8 T e l fa r 2 0 T o g a / SOE 2 2 Yusuke Gunji 24 Jerome C. Rousseuau 26 P HEROMONE RUSH 2 8 E s c e n t r i c M o l e c u l e s / A c q u a d i Pa r m a / K i l i a n H e n n e s s y INTERVIEWS C a m e r o n S i lv e r 3 0 Bless 36 F r é d é r i c Sa n c h e z 4 0 Kai Kuhne 44 C a t h e r i n e B aba 4 8 Ma r k u s S t r a s s e r 5 2 A r i c C h e n / TO B I A S WONG 5 6 B o o k w o r m B Y SS A M K IM 6 2 F a s h ion F e a r l e s s U n d e r T h e S u n B Y M A R K O ’ SULLIVA N 6 8 C o n t i n e n t a l D r i f t B Y Ja m e s M o u t h f o r d 8 4 Da r k R o o m B Y H A IF A W Ø HLERS OLSEN 9 8 Fa l l e n B Y K r i s t i i n a W i l s o n 1 1 2 E v e r g r e e n B Y D e r r i ck Sa n t i n i 1 2 8 C a t P o w e r B Y Jac q u e s DEQUE K ER 1 4 0 S o u t h e r n C o m f o r t B Y A LIS A C ONN A N 1 5 4 I d e n t i f y i n g S u bc u l t u r e B Y ERI C FRIDEEN 1 6 4 H i g h l a n d e r B Y Ja m e s M o u t h f o r d 1 8 0 B l u e Ray B Y M A RI QUEIROZ 1 9 4 Ma r i o Sc h wab B Y H A IF A W Ø HLERS OLSEN 2 0 0 ART Art of Consumerism BY Dominic Sio 206 F e l i n a e B Y C u r a t e d b y FLOREN C E TÉTIER 2 1 2
C OVER P h o t o g r a p h e d b y M AR K O ’ S U L L I V A N S t y lin g BY N ATA L I E G U BB I N S M a k e - up BY ADA M DE C R U Z @ BA L C O N Y J U M P H a i r BY J ERO M E B L U M M ODE L - Y U L I A L EO N T I E VA @ M ETRO P O L I A N M ODE L S DRE S S BY C HA N E L
C OM P ENDIUM OF C RE A TIVITY N o . 3
ED I TOR - I N - C H I E F Dominic Sio ED I TOR S a b l e Ye h , R o b i D u t t a , A d a m D e C r u z C O N TR I B U T I N G ED I TOR Javier Barcala (Spain/Belgium), Hidetaka Furuya (Japan), Keiko Hirayama (Paris), Jared Johnson (Chicago) F A SHION EDITOR Niki Brodie (U.K.), Vinnie Pizzingrilli (Brazil) C O N TR I B U T I N G F A S H I O N ED I TOR Ta m e r W i l d e , N a t h a l i e G u b b i n s
C O N TR I B U TOR S James Mountford, Ali Mahdavi, Haifa Wøhlers Olsen, Mark O’Sullivan, D e r r i c k S a n t i n i , E r i c F r i d e e n , A l i s a C o n n a n , J a c q u e s D e q u e k e r, M a r i Q u e i r o z , A m a n d a M i l i u s , D e a n K a u f m a n , J e n F o r d , F i l e p M o t w a r y, R o b e r t A n d e r s o n , F i o n a B r y s o n , A n d r e j S k o k , G a r y H a r v e y, A l i c e G i a n n i n i , P a u l o M a r t i n e z , Angella N., Camilla Pole, Emma Holmqvist, Jody Furlong, Kristiina Wilson, Ssam Kim, Marcelo Krasilcic DE S I G N w w w. a r t o f c o n s u m e r i s m . n e t DE S I G N ER S E u g e n e Te e , S t e p h y C h e w , J u n K i t ED I TOR I A L O F F I C E 21, Girdlers Road, London W14 0PS, United Kingdom Te l . / F a x : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 6 0 3 7 5 4 9 S.E.ASIA OFFICE S u i t e 6 3 - 2 M a n o r 2 , J a l a n P e r k a s a 9 Ta m a n M a l u r i 5 5 1 0 0 C h e r a s , K u a l a L u m p u r, M a l a y s i a Te l . / F a x : + 6 ( 0 4 ) 8 9 9 4 1 0 8 W OR L D W I DE C O M M U N I C AT I O N w w w. m i n t r e d . b e AD V ERT I S I N G E N Q U I R I E S (United Kingdom) Kiyoshi Inoue - kiyoshi@stimulimag.com - M:+44 (0) 7782382685 Joseph Whittaker - joe@stimulimag.com - M: +44 (0) 7799558876 (Denmark) Satoru Inoue - satoru@stimulimag.com - M:+45 (2) 6203104 (South-East Asia) Dominic Sio - dos@stimulimag.com - M:+60193413102 SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@stimulimag.com D I S TR I B U T I O N E x p o r t P r e s s w w w. e x p o r t p r e s s . c o m ( Wo r l d w i d e ) B. White (Brazil), Select Air (Australia)
COPYRIGHT Stimuli © 2008, by the ar tists, the authors & photographers. Reproduction in whole or in par t without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices and credits are accurate at press time but are subject to changes. This magazine accepts no liability for loss or damage of manuscripts, ar tworks, photographic prints and transparencies. ISSN 87989320
worldwide 2008 escentric molecules
TAILORED MASCULINITY
DREAMSCAPE
Adam Kimmel is arguably one of the leading menswear fashion designers in New York, right up there among those shining stars of the American menswear circuit such as Thom Browne and Scott Sternberg (Band of Outsiders). Why? Because his clothing is distinctly masculine — you cannot help but feel its relaxed elegance.
There are 40 minutes remaining till British newcomer Mathew Harding’s MA interview with Central Saint Martins’ Louise Wilson. With the clock ticking, Harding succinctly dishes the scoop about his design aesthetic and how his dreams led to a comprehensive collection.
He started out in 2002 by making clothes for friends while an architecture student at N.Y.U.. His career took a brilliant turn when he met Joe Serino, the former Vice President of Calvin Klein menswear. Joe introduced Adam to the best Italian factories where he learned from the finest tailors and patternmakers. He managed to sell his first limited Spring ‘05 collection to Collette, which helped propel him to stardom. His clothing is now available in over 30 stores around the world. Just five years after he started, mens.style.com named him as one of the most influential fashion designers in the industry. What makes Adam Kimmel a highly interesting brand is the contributors to the look books. First of all, he uses leading fashion photographer Alexei Hay, who is also his brother. Second of all, the models are not really models. They are artists, musicians and actors, mostly Adam’s friends or friends of his friends of friends. In his 08 Autumn collection, he drew inspiration from Semina Culture, the California-based art movement from the late 50’s largely led by Wallace Berman. And in the look book, you’ll find George Herms, a Semina artist as well as Berman’s best friend. www.adamkimmel.com — Hidetaka Furuya
“Whilst researching the theory of dreams, I came across a quote that said, ‘Dreams are random mutations of our memories that generate new ideas’. Using this quote, I cut up and collaged ‘memory’ photos into random mutations, drew from them, designed from them, made a garment, which I then mutated into something else, and finally abstracted the whole thing by looking at the shapes that I had created in an abstract pattern cutting approach.” Harding draws his inspiration from the world and beyond. A psychology major, we see the influence of Signmund Freud in dreamlike journey he leads us on through his work. www.matthewharding.org — Jared Johnson
ART CANDY Yusuke Gunji is an upcoming Japanese young artist who lives in a world of curiosity. He creates not only colourful, detailed and abstract patterns, but also images of houses that just keep multiplying through which he depicts his unique, conceptual perspectives on daily life. Yusuke was born in 1984, and began drawing game and cartoon characters when he was a little boy. He never stopped drawing, and started working as an artist in 2004. In 2007, he held his first solo exhibition ‘Creamy House’ at GALLERY TOKYO, where he presented works of daily surroundings with vivid, abstract expressions.Yusuke says, “I mostly draw from my imagination, but my works are all related to daily life. To me, drawing is as natural as taking a bath. Life would be absolutely soulless if I could’t draw any more.” In June 2008, he showed his latest solo exhibition ‘conpeito’, which is a Japanene candy originally made in Portugal (this candy is very tiny, but it usually takes more than seven days to make). In this exhibition, he presented plane works of infinitely spreading images and three-dimentional works of miniature gardens decorated by meteorites and sweets. It was not about anything magnificent, but about a microscopic world. Have a close look, and you will never be too bored. paper.moo.jp — Hidetaka Furuya
CAMERON SILVER SAYS YVES
Interviewed By Jen Ford Photography By Amanda Milius
A s t h e ow n e r o f Los Angeles vintage mecca Decades, C a m ero n Si l ver has pre tty m uch s e e n it all fro m e ve r y n o t a b l e d es ig n er o f th e 20th ce ntur y — fro m s h ow s t o p p i n g re d c a r p et gowns to ever yday black jackets. He ex pl a i n s wh y t h e w o rk o f d e s igne r Yve s Saint Laure nt, in particular, leaves a lasting m e mo r y.
BLESS OUR SOUL
Interviewed By Fiona Bryson Photographs courtesy of Bless
O ve r t h e i r t h i r t een-year career Bless have made a pro d u c t t h e focus of their work, improving ever yday o b j e c t s a n d c h a l l enging the mass and re-production o f t h e f a s h i o n i ndustr y. Originally not intending to become fashion designers they have stayed tr ue to their s t y l e a n d p re s e n t ed collections in an unconventional manner, s o m e t i m e s giving more importance to accessories a n d f u r n it u re r a t h e r th an th e ir clo th ing.
FREDERICK SANCHEZ
Interviewed by Keiko Hirayama Translated by Sable Yeh
Is he a musician? Not really. A nd h e wo uld n’t call h im s e lf a D J . Is he an artist? Yes. Frédéric Sanchez works with sounds known as ‘l’illustration sonore’ that are well known in the world, especially in the fashion world. Sanchez works with more than 20 brands, including Marc Jacobs, Prada, and Givenchy for their collections. In addition to his own work, he has also collaborated with artists such as Louise Bourgeois. Recently, he has been named curator of an exhibition of the legendary Serge Gainsbourg, which will run from October 21 2008 until March 1 2009 at la Cité de la Musique in Paris, France.
KAI KUHNE REMIXED
Interviewed By Jared Johnson Potrait By Marcelo Krasilcic
Th e rea c t i o n t o Ge rm an d e s igne r K ai Kuh ne’s m o s t rec en t w o rk i s t ha t h e re ally is back . A fte r h is d e par ture f ro m A s Fo u r a n d the subsequent drama that ensued, K a i Ku h n e i s g o i ng through a reformation — apparently both personal and c re ative . Th e re s ult is a lo o k th at is c l e a n , ye t s h owc a s es beautiful detailing and impeccable t a i l o r i n g . It i s a p parent in his work that his specialty is t h e f e m a l e f o r m . In his Spring 2009 collection, he sent h i s m o d e l s d ow n t he r unway dressed in classic, tailored l in es , wh il e a t t h e s am e tim e g lo rifying th e fe m inine s i l ho u et t e. T h e n e w a e s t h e t i c that has emerged from the ex-bad boy i s s t re a m l i n e d , s oft, yet power ful. However, amongst t h e m o re p l a y f u l mood of the majority of the Spring c o l l e c t i o n s , K a i Kuhne’s minimalism stands out and a s s u res u s h e is s t ill pus h ing th e e nve lo pe . We s po k e wit h t he d es i g n er to h e ar h is pe rs pe ctive o n th is ne w m o m en t u m h e is o n.
CATHERINE THE GREAT
Interviewed By Filep Motwary Photography By Ali Madalvi
W h e n c o n f ro n t e d with the often daunting task of finding w h a t w o u l d s p a rk the interest of a tr ue fashion reader, I u l t i m a t e l y c h o o s e those who are difficult to reach — not b e c a u s e t h e y a re s nobs — but because they are the ones w h o w o rk h a rd , a nd what they do is, in a way, the future o f w h a t we c a l l f a shion. Their preoccupation with their c r a f t m a k e s m y i n terest in them even more intense. The c a s e f o r t h i s i n t e r vie w with world renowned fashion s t y l i s t , C a t her i n e Baba, was no e xce ptio n, and prove d t o b e even m o re d i fficult th an I th o ug h t.
SHANGHAI SURPRISE
Photo: Dean Kaufman
Interviewed by Jared Johnson Photographs courtesy of 100%Design Shanghai
C h i n a , t h ro u g h i t s many social, economic and political w a ve s , h a s p roven to be an epicenter of growth. Now, a l l e ye s a re on the glittering hub of Shanghai a s a n e w a r t i s t i c enviro nm e nt is tak ing ro o t. In June 2 0 0 7 , t h e a n n o u n cement of the 100% Design Shanghai e x h i b i t i o n p u n c t uated this creative evolution. After a ye a r o f a n t i c i p a tion, in June 2008, Ne w York-based To b i a s Wo n g , c o nce ptual d e s ig ne r, and A ric C h e n, j o u r n a l is t a n d c u rato r s pe cialis ing in d e s ig n, j o ine d t h e r a n k s o f 1 0 0 % Design London’s Tom Dixon and 1 0 0 % De s i g n To k yo’s Michael Young to usher in this g ro u n d b re a k i n g e xhibition as 100% Design Shanghai’s c rea t i ve d irec t o r s .
BOOKWORM Photographed by Ssam Kim art direction
DOMINIC SIO
fashion editor
NIKI BRODIE
grooming
ADAM DE CRUZ @ BALCONY JUMP
FEARLESS
UNDER THE SUN
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK O SULLIVAN stylist
NATALIE GUBBINS
E U G V E N I A
stylist assistant
LUCIA ROBERTS
Bl ac k mesh b o dy
hair
JEROME BLUM
make up
ADAM DE CRUZ @ Balcony Jump
model
EUGVENIA and YULIA @ Metroplitan Models, Paris
Pi n k ja c k et
J U N KO S H I M A D A NOIR
Bl ac k c hi ffo n sk i r t w i t h p i n k b u t t o n s
J U N KO S H I M A D A
Bl u e si l k r u ffl e heel s
BRUNO FRISSONI
Y U L I A Si l ver l eat her dress Bl ac k sq u a re c u t o u t b o o t s
J U N KO S H I M A D A M A N O LO B L A H N I K
Bl a c k mesh b o dy Cher r y c o a t Bl a c k b ag w i t h c r y st al c har ms Bl a c k l eat her o p en - t o e b o o t s W hi t e l a c e g l oves
NOIR ASHISH CHANEL GIVENCHY DENTS
W hi t e dress w i t h r u ffl es D i c e h a t
G I A M B AT T I S TA VA L L I J E F F R E Y P O RT M A N
Puffy grey / black wool j ac ke t
C HRISTO FO R O S KOTENTO S
stylist
Tamer Wilde
stylist assistant
Mariya Paskaleva
make up
Adam de Cruz @ BALCONY JUMP
hair
Ben Mohapi @ Punishment using Shu Uemura
model
Hannah Stafford @ Next
casting
Blac k angu lar s t r uct u red dress
ANJA ML A K A
Black pat e nt le at h e r cors e t Black satin t rou s e rs Ver y long t aile d black wool jacket Grey pate nt s h oe s
CO RE SPIRIT MARJAN PEJO SKI AMEC HI IHENAC HO MO DERNIST
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HAIFA WØHLERS OLSEN stylist
CAMILLA POLE
hair
PANOS PAPANDRIANOS @ CLM using Bumble & Bumble
makeup
ATTRACTA COURTNEY @ CLM using Giorgio Armani
nail technician
ANNE LUECK
model
CICELY TELMAN @ Viva Model Management, Paris
photographic assistance
BILLY BALLARD and MAGDA SIWICKA
digital capture by
ROB SAPONJA @ Provision Photographic
post production by
KRISTIAN DANKER @ Colorclub.dk
with special thanks to
PROLIGHTING UK and PROVISION STUDIO
Ja c k et Tro u s e r s Be l t Sho es
V I K TO R & R O L F JULIEN MCDONALD RESURRECTION NEW YORK CH R I S T I A N LO U B O U T I N
Blouse
PAUL & JOE
Dress
PAUL & JO E
Pa i n t b r u s h e d Fl o ra l D re s s
ERDEM
Jacket Dress Stockings Shoes
C HRIS HAN HARL AN B EL HU E C ESARE PAC IOT TI
FALLEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY KRISTIINA WILSON stylist
ANGELLA N.
makeup
CYNTHIA ROSE
hair
LACY REDWAY
stylist assistant
DAPHNEE MARIE JOSEPH
model
IRINA G. @ ONE
MORGAN @ ONE
EVERGREEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY DERRICK SANTINI photographer
Derrick Santini
fashion editor
Niki Brodie
make up
Adam de Cruz @ Balcony Jump using Shiseido
hair model
Gow and Roku @ Balcony Jump using Kevin Murphy and BaByliss Pro. Barbara Fialho @ Models 1
casting/production
Kate Edmunds
photographic assistance
Assan Newman
fashion assistant
Sophie Stephens
retouching
Kaoru Rose
casting
JODY FURLONG @ EYE CASTING LONDON
Si l k Shi r t
V intage Y ves S aint L aurent D ecades at D over S treet M arket
L ea t her t ro u ser s Bel t Su n g l asses
P reen by T hornton B rega z z i L ara B ohinc Y ves S aint L aurent
CATPOWER
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JACQUES DEQUEKER editor
VINNIE PIZZINGRILLI
stylist
PAULO MARTINEZ
beauty
DANIEL HERNANDEZ (Glloss)
model
ANA CLÁUDIA MICHELS (way)
fashion production
HELENO JR
photo assistent
FABIO BARTELT E PABLO SABORIDO
styling assistent
GABRIEL SORRIBAS
beauty assistent
HENRIQUE MARTINS
Co st u me
ANDRÉ LIMA
Bel t ZI N C CO M P L E M E N T S Cat su i t
S T Y L I S T OW N
Dress
ELLUS
Blac k Se qu ine d Jacket Wor n A s Dress
JULIEN MAC DONAL D w w w. ju l i en ma c do n a l d. c o m
Blac k Pat e nt L e at h er Stil etto Shoes
RUPERT SAN DER SON w w w. r u p er t san der so n . c o. u k
SOUTHERN
COMFORT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALISA CONNAN stylist
ALICE GIANNINI
photographer’s assistants
KEN KAMARA
stylist’s assistant
SONIA GENDERS
digital assistant
GILLIAN TAYLOR
hair make-up
NINA BECKERT @ soho management using Kiehl’s stylist series ADAM DE CRUZ @ balcony jump using Shiseido
model
CAMILLA RUTHERFORD @ select models
retouching
GARETH PRITCHARD
casting
JODY FURLONG @ EYE CASTING LONDON
Black sil ve r and wh it e wool jacket Black trou s e rs
ST EL L A M CCART NEY M OSCH I NO
Bl u e fu r c o a t
Bl ac k fu r c a p e Grey w o o l p en c i l sk i r t Bl u e st ra p py san dal s
V E R S AC E
HOCKLEY PAU L & J O E Y V E S S A I N T L AU R E N T
JO H A N St ra w hat
CAM DEN M A R K E T L o n d o n
Si l k sc ar f
SCR EA M I N G M I M I’ S N Y C
1 9 4 0 ’s t w i l l ja c k et W H AT G OES AR OUND COM E S A R O U N D N Y C
IDENTIFYING SUBCULTURE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERIC FRIDEEN casting, styling and art direction
GARY HARVEY @ Balcony Jump
stylist assistant
EREN MEHMET
models
JOHAN @ Premier MARCO BROZIC @ Premier ALEX JERNY @ Premier PETE BOLTON @ Models1 NYE SMITH @ Models1 RYAN LEHANE @ Select LIAM O’NELL @ Select
HIGHLANDER PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAMES MOUTHFORD fashion stylist
ANDREJ SKOK
make up
ADAM DE CRUZ @ Balcony Jump using Shiseido Men
hair
NAOKI KOMIYA using Bumble and Bumble
models
MARKO BROZIC @ Premier, Ben Mills @ Select
fashion assistant
MATT CARROLL, DUANE NASIS
Hea v y k n i t t ed c o a t Ar m w ar mer s Ti g ht s a n d so c k s Sa n da l s
WALT E R VA N B E I R E N D O N C K S T Y L I S T S OW N FA L K E MIU MIU
Jacket Scar f (wor n as s kir t ) Fur hat Mittens and boot s Earrings and le g war me rs
GUCC I ALEXANDER MCQU EEN D&G MUKS ST Y LISTS OW N
Hat
VINNIE PI ZZ INGRILL I
Su i t
ERMENEGILDO ZEGN A
Sh ir t
VIVIENNE W EST W O O D
Sh oe s
KING 5 5
BLUE RAY PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARI QUEIROZ fashion editor
VINNIE PIZZINGRILLI
hair & make up
ANDERSON HONORATO @ www.agenciablz.com.br
set design
RICARDO ALCARPE @ www.votupoca.art.br
retouching
MARCOS RIBEIRO @ www.mrestudiodigital.com.br
Su i t Shi r t a n d n ec k l ac e Sho es
AL EX AN D R E H E RC H COV I TC H S U R FAC E TOA I R M A R I O QU E I R OZ
MARIO SCHWAB PHOTOGRAPHED BY HAIFA WØHLERS OLSEN Gliding down catwalk in slow motion clad in a columnal dress that closely enwraps her body from top to toe, model Mariya Markina looks like a creature from another planet. But we haven’t ventured further afield than to London Fashion Week, where Greek/ Austrian wonder boy Marios Schwab unveiled his vision for AW08. Shunning the mini proportions with which he’s made his name in favour of a perversely restrictive idiom, the showing exuded a disconcerting allure. The collection’s focal point was indisputably the extreme silhouette, and to bring the elongated line full circle, the ever-present floor skimming dresses were complemented by narrow, double breasted coats and contrast-enhancing chubbies. Important as the actual outline was, Schwab’s penchant for anatomy was still evident and materialized both in the second skin associations of the fit as well as in the strategically dissected surfaces that revealed flashes of plain denim or puff pastry-like growths constructed using colourful chiffon. Another key aspect was the subversive prints created by the artist Tom Gallant. Judging by the mixed post-show murmurs of the fash pack as they left the catwalk venue, the offering seemed to have disturbed as much as it excited its critics. Sensational as the AW08 collection was, Schwab has proved that he’s a designer whose talent translates well beyond the edgy London scene. In 2007, he bagged The Swiss Textiles Award, wowing the judges with his intricately executed, anatomy inspired SS08 collection. If further evidence is needed that Schwab is anything but a one hit wonder, take a look at his stockist list that currently includes prestigious retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Dover Street Market, Browns, Opening Ceremony, Visionaire and Maria Luisa. www.mariosschwab.com — Emma Holmqvist
ART OF CONSUMERISM PHOTOGRAPHED BY DOMINIC SIO styling
NIKI BRODIE
photography assistant
SSAM KIM
(From le f t t o righ t ) Al l By Bel macz La p i z ; Ja s p i s An d Ye l l ow Gold ‘Little People’ Pendant On Yel low Gold Ch ain; Yel l ow Gol d Hear t Brooch With Gar net Bla c k To u r m a l i n e An d Yellow Gold ‘Catagena’ ring; Baroque Pe a rl , Ag a t e ; Jade And Ye llow Gold ‘Littl e Peopl e’ Pendant On Yel l ow Gol d Chai n www. be lmac z. c om
FELINAE CURATED BY FLORENCE TÉTIER
Madame Paris - madameparis.com
Florence TĂŠtier - florencejohann.com
BE SPOKE
MIL L INE RY
St ud io 4 / No. 7 2 , Ol d C o m p to n St re e t , L on d on W. 1 . w w w. j s m i th e s q u i re . c o m