STITCH spring summer /
2007
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t a b l e
o f
c o n t e n t s d e p a r t m e n t s
Showcase 7 9 Profile 11 Trends F e a t u r e s h o o t s 12 T o - d o l i s t 27 L a s t w o r d 29 Fashion gems in Evanston: Showcase, page 7.
Alex Davis and Lindsay Powell in Fireman’s Park: A Wilted Flower Fete, page 22.
f r o m t h e e d i t o r Darling Readers, Back in October, an idea floated down from the sky and planted itself in the heads of three unsuspecting people sitting in Pick-Staiger Concert Hall. In the moments before townie Jeremy Piven graced the stage for an hour-long talk, Nathan Adkisson, Kevin Burke and I were divining his outfit. We thought he would surely slide on the aviators, sling Joyce Lee on some denim and squeeze that torso into a deep v-neck tee. Then our conversation traipsed over to the state of style at Northwestern, and we realized how shaky the footing of fashion was at the university. of Toronto, Canada + ruby lips with messy Et voilà! From six months (or 180 outfits) of countless late-night hair pow-wows, several scourings of Evanston stores, a handful of caffeine+ suspenders and big fueled interviews, three rollicking photo shoots, and one glistening vipendants + the taste of caramel sion came STITCH. + alpacas We want this twice-yearly collection of images and articles to break + bad habits down the cardboard walls that encase campus fashion. Because creativity affords no condescension, we believe style should be a stamp of expression for all the world to see. It is our philosophy to play with fashion – roll it into a luminous toy or sculpt it into labyrinthine costume. Orange leggings, vintage parkas, androgynous hats, even Northwestern sweatpants - anything that articulates character is a marvelous joy. It is my pleasure to dedicate and devote STITCH to all the beloved members of the Northwestern community, whether they are “[American women] see the fashion neophytes or style savants. Even though Jeremy Piven runway as inspiration, not a proved us wrong with a lavender sweater and black blazer, the three of us were only emboldened by our imperfect expectasource for imitation.” tions. I hope STITCH, Northwestern’s premier fashion magazine, will too inspire all of you not to conform nor to compete, but - Z ac P osen to create.
editor in chief
With love,
Joyce Lee
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editor in chief Chris Adamson artistic / layout director Matthew Alfonso executive editor Nathan Adkisson advertising director
s t a f f contributors
e d i t o r i a l
Kevin Burke Alex Ilyashov Andrea Hart
s t i t c h c o n t r i b u t o r s
Chris Adamson /
artisditircector layout
of Salt Lake City, Utah + large hats + swathes of black fabric + creating around you the smell that you like + the early 90s + diane pernet
Nick Infusino
photographer
of Bartlett, Illnois + a rejujuvinated chicago bulls + any album released on southern lord or hydra head + carlo rossi sangria + chad hunt + tom junod’s articles in esquire magazine
Matthew Alfonso
Nathan Adkisson
of Miami, Florida + denim + jewish girls + tompkins square park + pleasure principle + les concerts à emporter
of Cedaredge, Colorado + barack obama + irish holidays + sigma chi + anything synth + ankle boots
executive editor
Tommy Rousse
photographer
of Bayou Gauche, Louisiana + cheeseburgers from the grill at hinman + the deadly snakes + 99% cotton, 1% elastic + thomas pynchon + gonzo latin translation
advertising director
Marnie Soman
photographer
of Long Island, New York + spring dresses + joni mitchell + that 70s show + patrick rosal’s newest book + chocolate covered espresso beans
s h o w c a s e
S T I T C H
Celebrate Spring with...
P
unch
Beard & Bangs printed tee; $62. Active Endeavors.
Vera silk scarf; $78. Active Endeavors.
t bags Los Angeles patterned kimono dress; $165. Active Endeavors.
Faux-suede belts; $9.99 each. Fashion tomato.
Large beaded necklaces; $9.99 each. Fashion tomato. Ambiance Apparel floral print cotton dress; $29.99. Fashion Tomato.
Lula lined leather clutch; $248 %30 off. Active Endeavors.
All Clothing From:
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Active Endeavors 901 Church St / Evanston Fashion Tomato 1631 Sherman Ave / Evanston
STUSSY Authentic Gear patchwork boardshorts; $53. Active Endeavors.
Left: J Brand women’s black pencil leg jeans; $160. Right: Original RCVA Rockers men’s skinny black jeans; $72. Active Endeavors.
& POLISH Photos: Joyce Lee
Honey Punch silk tubetop dress; $41.99. Sequined Clutch; $49.99. Fashion Tomato.
Vera silk square sash; $69. Active Endeavors.
Gold bracelet; $18; Fashion Tomato. C.C. Skye gold link bracelet; $163. Kenneth Jay Lane gold inlaid bracelets; $65 each. K. Amato clover pendant necklace; $66. Active Endeavors.
ever tuxedo vest w/ metal hardwear; $200. Active Endeavors.
Gustto oversized patent black bag; $798. Active Endeavors.
Trovata canvas and knit cropped jacket; $270. Active Endeavors.
Trovata men’s canvas boardshorts with rope tie; $120. Active Endeavors.
Bring your copy of STITCH to Active Endeavors in Evanston and recieve
20% off your purchase!
p r o f i l e
S T I T C H
TWO MUGGERS AND A SCREENPRINT M y l e s S m u t n ey - H y d e, owner//designer R i s ky B u s i n e s s clothing
t
here are discarded tubes of
paint lying on the windowsill underneath a neon pink banner emblazoned with Gothic lettering. Crumpled sketches of sinking battleships and human rib cages litter the linoleum. The black stereo in the middle of the room is blasting Gutter Butter mixtapes and what sounds like speed metal. A rusty bathtub sits in the basement hallway, spotted with the faded ink of countless silk-screened shirts. “It’s hard to imagine it’s only been a year,” says Myles Smutney-Hyde, raising a Parliament Light to her chapped lips and grinning widely. She is talking about the unexpected success and growth of her clothing line, Risky Business. At the young age of 23, Myles herself is responsible for everything – from the silk-screening of original designs at her Wicker Park studio to the individual packaging and shipment of Risky Business apparel. Unlike most designers who draw inspiration from catwalks and catalogues, Myles gained her passion for design not in the pages of Vogue, but rather in Chicago tattoo parlors. Among her influences, she lists unconventional artists Jason Shogreen, Giant and Jeremy Fish. This rebellious ethos is imprinted in Myles’s imaginative designs – Risky Business apparel is known for its striking skeletal and sometimes sexual imagery. She accredits this to a notion of a shared human frailty, but in reality she “just likes them.” While these images are undoubtedly edgy and slightly morbid, they possess a unique warmth and humanism rarely encountered in mainstream clothing stores. A native of Chicago, Myles has lived all over the U.S., including Los Angeles and New York City, but inevitably finds herself returning to her city of birth. “Chicago is a very transient place; people come and go in groups,” she says, wearing a homemade red hoodie printed with the Louis Vuitton fleur-de-lys.
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Myles believes that these self-contained groups should invest more in the artistic communities of Chicago. It is for this reason she strives to bring these groups together in an effort to save the vanishing art spaces in the city. One of the most recognized Risky Business creations is entitled “Mugger Fucker.” This one requires a little backstory occurring in March of last year at a downtown bar. Myles was celebrating the launch of Risky Business with drinks and live silk-screening for friends. After setting up, she ran home to pick up some extra ink. On the way back to the bar, two men suddenly jumped her. “I think when my hood fell off they realized I was a girl, and the kicking stopped,” she says, giggling. Myles gave up her phone, her money and even her ink. But when the men tried to grab the rolled-up prints she was carrying with her, she refused to give them up. Though the police were unable to catch the criminals, Myles sought her own brand of justice and fashioned posters portraying the crooks under the title “Mugger Fuckers.” The posters appeared around Chicago and the therapeutic design soon appeared on tote bags, which were featured in a Fall 2006 fashion special of The Reader. Myles brings original designs inspired by her everyday life, including coffee mugs and cowboys, to every Risky Business event and transfers the images onto shirts, hoodies, bandanas, bags, or any customer request.
“
I think when my hood fell off they realized I was a girl, and the kicking stopped.
Myles herself is content to spend most of her days drawing in her modest studio. Whenever she feels the urge to go out, she simply checks The Cobra Snake, party photography Web site for the young and hip, to remind her that she’s there in spirit. Seeing her work worn by others, whether in the form of a shirt or even a tattoo, is a feeling that Myles finds “unparalleled.” When asked about the future of Risky Business, Myles offers no definite answer. A standalone Risky Business store may be in the works via a partnership with rock music poster designers Screwball Press, or perhaps she will even begin a long-delayed apprenticeship as a tattoo artist. Like all of life’s gutsy endeavors and labors of love, there is no sure footing in designing and running one’s own clothing line. Though some may find an uncertain future frightening, Risky Business embraces such unbridled possibility and opportunity. After all, in the words of Myles, “Business is totally risky, dude.” --- Matthew Alfonso
’’
Clockwise from opposite left: A Risky Business printed tee; Myles Smutney-Hyde; “Punk’s not Dead” printed tees at Una Mae’s boutique. Photos: Tommy Rousse Log on to www.businessisrisky.com Find Risky Business apparel at: Una Mae’s Freak Boutique 1422 N Milwaukee Ave Chicago
t r e n d s
S T I T C H
direct from the
s p r i n g 07 runway
source
a
mid the muted color palette of
Michael
Kors, the bizarre rodeo of Vivienne Westwood, and the deconstructed dresses of Marc Jacobs, this season saw two trends walk practically every designer’s runway.
Trenchcoats
The trench, long a staple of foggy London streets and femme fatales, has been updated this spring. Say goodbye to androgynous, disheveled overthrows and hello to elegant bell sleeves and glamorous detailing. Oh-sopretty pintucked hems perfectly compliment a refined, feminine shape – just add an intensely bright skinny belt for a breezy finish. For the Lois Lane seeking both stories and style, these chic revisions to a closet classic make the trench perfect for unpredictable weather and an impeccable outfit.
Left: Burberry Prorsum, spring ‘07: Dramatic bell sleeves, feminine cut. Above: Minuet silk-lined trench; $63.99. Fashion Tomato. See page 7 for store details.
80s Shillouettes
As the New World ushers in the New Rave movement, designers have thrown spring fashion back by two decades. The volume is entirely on top here: largerthan-life sleeves, full shoulders, a fluid torso and a skinny effect from the waist down. But forget your pointyshouldered Dior tuxedo jackets circa 1985 – this look is all about a balance of extremes, modern and interesting without all that 80s camp. Spring has left behind the cheesy vinyl bubbles of yesteryear and unveiled an asymmetric aesthetic dabbled with geometric shapes. Think futuristic origami in a flurry of tapered trapezoids and patent color blocks. The shilouette also encompasses the skinny jean phenomenon and oversized dress tops. It’s an eye-catching look for those with an eye for style. Go ahead, take a risk and take it big.
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--- Joyce Lee & Chris Adamson
Left: Stella McCartney spring ‘07: Oversized earth-toned overthrow. Above: Spring & Clifton origami argyle cardigan; $410. Active Endeavors. Runway photos courtesy Style.com
shoots
n o t e l l h o t e l S T I T C H
Three couples. One room. The Maragarita Inn: 1566 Oak Ave / Evanston / 847.869.2273
All Clothing From: (except where noted) crossroadstradingco 1730 Sherman Ave / Evanston
Photos: Tommy
Rousse Styling and Make-up: Chris Adamson / Joyce Lee Models: Molly Beucher, Communications 3rd Year / Dexter Hill, Medill 3rd Year
On Molly: Black wrap-dress; $48. Silver belt; $14. Large gem bracelet, $18; Pearl necklace, $28; White & black bead necklace, $32. All francesca’s collections. See page 22 for store details. On Dexter: Robert Grahm silver dress shirt; $13.50. Square-bottomed black neck tie; $5.
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On Dexter: Fresh Karma baseball 3/4 sleeve; $22.50. Fred and Howard skinny gray jeans; $35. On Molly: Damsel silver foiled white tank; $5. Faded Glory high-waisted denim cutoffs; $7. Suspenders, stylist’s own.
On Molly: J Crew ruffled white button-up; $15. Wool shorts; $7. On Dexter: Lacoste golf polo; $16.50. Old Navy Khaki shorts; $8.50. Wool plaid scarf; $20.
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shoots
S T I T C H
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Halter dress with pleats, Milly of New York stylist’s own.
Mannequin D e e p i n t h e T / I C o s t u m e S t u d i o, a mannequin awakens.
Photos by Nick
Infusino Lower Styling by Chris Adamson / Joyce Lee Model: Sara Schmidt, Medill 1st Year Body Paint by Brittney
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Opposite: Mini-dress with sash, Anne Hung, stylist’s own; This Page: Silver sequined top, stylist’s own.
Sheer tribal dress, Betsy johnson; stylist’s own. Twisted patent belt, Betsy johnson; stylist’s own.
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shoots
S T I T C H
On Lindsay (left): Nude eyelet dress; $42.
a wilted flower f ê t e
in Firemen’s Park, Evanston
Photos: Marnie
Soman Styling and Make-up: Chris Adamson / Joyce Lee Models: Lindsay Powell, Communications 1st Year Alex Davis, Communications 1st Year
All Clothing From: francesca’s collections 1706 Maple Ave / Evanston
On Alex (left): Patterned kimono dress; $48.
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Buttoned pillowcase dress; $28.
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On Alex (left): Lemon jersey knit dress; $42.
to
-do
list
S T I T C H
REVIEWS of contemporary delights to make you salivate, make you dance, make you ponder.
TASTE THIS... Chef’s Station,
915 Davis St. 847.570.9821 chefs-station.com Meal for one, $25 Four course tasting menu without wine, $40 Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m. – 9p.m., Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Fashion is often defined by the most eclectic of pairings. The unexpected delight Lightly smoked cedar plank Atlantic salmon fillet. Photo: Alex Ilyashov of classically chic and kitschy tongue-in-cheek. with vibrant celery curlicues. Why shouldn’t food follow the same free-spir A sumptuous roasted onion and goat ited adage? cheese soufflé is equally airy and piquantly At Chef’s Station, it does. rich. The curvaceous orb rests atop a fresh Nestled under the Davis Street Metra bed of greens and is ringed by glossy black station and a striped awning, this unassuming droplets of balsamic reduction. nook has the exterior of a cheery French bak Don’t miss the smoky grilled artichoke ery. Inside, mellow lighting comes courtesy of side dish, dusted with parmesan and doused low-hanging metal fixtures, while the muted oil with lemon, or the gussied up version of typipaintings evoke a stately meal somewhere far, cally homely mashed potatoes, featuring flafar away from the Panera and Flattop-inunvorful Yukon Gold spuds and perfectly crisped dated Evanston dining scene. The cozy and caramelized onions. surprisingly long space offers the choice be Dessert is equally impressive, from tween feeling tucked away in the back with no the fluffy and steaming strawberry soufflé, distractions from the bacon reduction-bathed drenched with the richest milk chocolate brie, or a window seat affording frequent sauce, to a pecan tart offset by an unusual glimpses of the ‘L’ grumbling by. mint-caramel ice cream combination. After the incredible complimentary slabs In the same “haute couture-meets-hot of crusty bread and pats of whipped butter, a right now” approach to style, Chef’s Station seasoned gourmand might instinctively pass serves updated American cuisine in a highup the salmon tartare. Chef’s Station is not the low blend of printer paper menus and an place to eschew this appetizer staple. The eleimpeccable bevy of reductions, ragouts, and gant coral terrine is mottled with fresh cracked truffle oil infusions. pepper and ample lemony zest, then crowned --- Alex Ilyashov
READ THIS... HEAR THIS... Klaxons, Myths of the Near Future
Genre-bending, dance scene sensations Klaxons assume an ambitious debut with this year’s Myths of the Near Future. On 11 tracks, the trio of London boys spins a layered electronic sound that boldly goes galactic. Yet their music undeniably builds upon elements of other current indie-dance maestros. “Magick” treads into Aussie territory with its pulsing Presets-esque beat, while the rapid guitar riffs and shouting vocals on “Atlantis to Interzone” follow the Love is All and Bloc Party vein. Aside from bridging geographical gaps, the Klaxons sound demolishes dancer hierarchy. Whether you’re a recovering wallflower or Miss Mod, Myths lures your feet to groove. Dripping with sexual undertones and a heavy, intoxicating bass, “Isle of Her” is preparation for the ultimate climax. Klaxons don’t peak, however, until their second-to-last track. Electronically underdressed and uncontained, “It’s Not Over Yet” surpasses the overbearing musicality of other songs. Unfortunately, with “Four Horsemen of 2012,” Myths ends in a fit of pretension and heavy metal. The final track is obnoxiously made into the intentional outsider of the album. The British band shouldn’t forget that, for Klaxons, superficiality soars.
--- Andrea Hart
Neck Deep and Other Predicaments by Ander Monson
From the infamous James Frey scandal to the wildly popular humorous memoirs of David Sedaris and Augusten Burroughs, the term “creative non-fiction” is thrown around like confetti nowadays. Yet the genre is so broad that one of its most fascinating forms is often overlooked: the essay. Enter Ander Monson. A relatively new author with only two published books, he caught my attention with Neck Deep, a collection of reinvented essays dubbed “Other Predicaments.” These aren’t your typical, insomnia-curing academic compositions. Instead, Monson has deftly crafted free-form works of writing that incorporate memoir, research, and social criticism into a single collection. “Outline Toward a Theory of the Mine Versus the Mind and the Harvard Outline” is composed entirely in the form of the Harvard outline, each sentence masterfully fragmented into I., A., and a. subheadings. Another piece, “I Have Been Thinking about Snow,” uses long trails of ellipses to separate paragraphs, sentences and words, creating what looks like a vast field of snow on the page, mirroring the essay’s content. While Monson’s poetic execution of the essay sits magnificently beneath the “creative non-fiction” umbrella, it is also a crafty expansion of traditional technique. Each story certainly engages the adventurous reader, but it is Monson’s form that sets Neck Deep apart.
--- Chris Adamson
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last word
S T I T C H
D ear P oliticians , Fashion criticism by Nathan Adkisson Please. We can almost smell the mothballs on your clothing. We’re sure this isn’t a complaint that is singular to our generation. Paul McCartney can keep up with fashion. Why the hell can’t you? Women candidates: you have to know that sex sells. You will never win the top spot in the White House until you embrace your femininity and at least try to be hot. Okay, Nancy Pelosi, we know that’s a stretch, but don’t you have a daughter? Just because the men wear suits doesn’t mean you have to. We let you wear pants, and now we think even that was a bad idea. The miniskirt was invented for a reason. Gianni Versace is rolling over in his grave. Of course, this would only be good if you have the legs to back it up, but you only have to be 25 to get a seat in the House of Representatives. That’s grad-student age. That’s hot. Don’t get too excited. The Mall isn’t really a mall, but we trust you to use a map. Just don’t declare war on Neiman Marcus. When you are on the street campaigning, wear actual streetwear. Put a hoody under your suit jacket, light a Parliament and really get to know your constituents. You will stop intimidating people if you dress like they do. When you are in Miami, try a white linen suit. When you are in New Orleans, Billabong makes some great flowered swim suits. Get your bloated selves to a Sunglass Hut. I guarantee Rumsfeld wouldn’t have been squinting if his wife had bought him some Ray-Bans. And when it’s cold, ask a Northwestern student what kind of boots to buy (hint: it starts with U). Yes, they even make them for guys. Illinois has 25 congressmen. That’s a lot, but Belmont is a big neighborhood, and Beatniks has a basement for people just like you. If you must go to Michigan Avenue, take a page from NU townie Jeremy Piven and get an ascot from Paul Stuart. Most of you wear glasses, and that’s fine (although they do make something called contact lenses), but haven’t you ever walked by a Lenscrafters? They do make functional eyewear that isn’t made of
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three metric tons of ugly wire and plastic. Experiment with some thin black frames, and we may actually listen to whatever you are speaking about . . . . For you, a risky move is trying a tie with stripes or lightening your suit from a navy to a dark blue. Come on. Most of you look old enough to have been around in the 20s. Why don’t you try some zoot suits or bring back the porkpie hat? NU candidate Anna XU put on an evening dress for her campaign photos, and we know more than one person did a double-take. If politicians can change it up, C-SPAN might just become the most popular network on television. How about starting a casual Friday on the Senate floor? Next time I turn on C-SPAN, I want to see someone in Sevens and a Polo. Those big rooms in Congress are built for fashion shows. You have two catwalks on either side and a stage in the front. Just turn down the lights a little and hire Paul Oakenfold to come in a few times a week. It’s not like you can’t afford it. Because if you dress like you aren’t an uptight square, we’ll stop thinking that you are. You’ll be able to think better if you unbutton your shirts a little, we promise.
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