SLM's 2011 Best of Food & Drink by St. Louis Magazine

The 25 Best New Restaurants | Restaurant of the Year A-List Winners | Best Burgers | Hot Drink Spots | best breakfasts

2011 Best of

Food& Drink

By our count, more than 200 independently owned restaurants have opened in the metro area in the past two years. Some shot straight into the stratosphere like SpaceShipOne, while others never left the runway. Cutesy names, location, provenances—they all mean nothing. A restaurant’s fate lies in the collective opinion. This year, in our biennial roundup of St. Louis’ best new restaurants, we take it one step further: Not only do we tell you our favorite places to go, we also tell you how best to negotiate each, with our picks for the must-get menu item, table, and server. Now go out and enjoy yourselves. We need to rest. —George Mahe

Crispy duck confit with a St. James Vignoles grape sauce and crispy sage leaves from Home Wine Kitchen

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Plus

SLM’s Restaurant of the Year

The

Best New restaurants in St. Louis

By Byron Kerman, Dave Lowry, George Mahe, Katie O’Connor, and Joe and Ann Pollack Photographs by Katherine Bish, Ashley Gieseking, Kevin A. Roberts, and Jennifer Silverberg

2011 Best of Food & Drink

All exterior windows flip up to create a “window awning,” one of DeMun Oyster Bar’s many unusual design touches.

Alan Richman had to have been thinking lovingly of Paris when he created DeMun Oyster Bar. The curved bar is just part of the retro decor that whisks us away. French oysters are good, but they are no better than these, painstakingly sourced from the Pacific Northwest, briny and sweet, with a champagne relish at hand and a good selection of sparkles at the bar, too. 740 DeMun, 314-725-0322, facebook.com/demunoysterbar.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Dish

Shigoku oysters, if available; oyster stew is a must.

Server

Rob Marchant

Table

We prefer the action at the bar, but the primo table is No. 30, midfray.

PHOTOGRAPH S BY Ashley Gieseking

DeMun Oyster Bar

A bit of vin ordinaire always accompanies traditional French onion soup.

Dish

Lamb chops crusted with goat cheese and herbes de Provence

Table

No. 8, along the back corner banquette. Sit facing out, and take it all in.

Server

Richard Swope

Bistro 1130 Set squarely in St. Louis suburbia, this spectacular French restaurant pairs attention to culinary detail with lavish presentations: plump escargots splashed with licorice-spiked Ricard; halibut in fennel broth with black rice; prime rib, sprinkled with lavender salt and pan-seared; and for dessert, profiteroles as light as angel murmurs. 1130 Town & Country Crossing, 636-394-1130, bistro1130.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Vino Nadoz Expectations for a new “wine bar” are necessarily low. This place, though, dodges the cliché. It opts for excellent, innovative food and an outstanding wine list. Polenta “cupcakes” are stuffed with smoked Gouda, mushrooms, and herbs, and pair well with the Qupé Central Coast Syrah. Focaccia pizza topped with chicken goes nicely with a Côtes du Rhône blanc. And black and blonde woods create an interior long on chichi. With full-dress fare at medium prices, this is the midcounty place for food and socializing. And vino. 16 The Boulevard–St. Louis, 314-726-0400, vinonadoz.com.

Dish

Farm pear salad with gorgonzola crème brûlée.

Table

See outside and be seen inside at table No. 1, the two- or three-top in the front window.

Server Kristina Dujmovic

The strawberry Napoleon: a teetering tower of berries, lemon curd, whipped cream, and puff pastry

PHOTOGRAPH BY Ashley Gieseking; Opposite Page: Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts

Pickled summer vegetables offset the richness of the braised pork belly at Salt.

Table

Server Sommelier Frank Fox

No. 13, a mirrored banquette. Face out or sneak peeks in the mirror.

Dish

Seared scallop with cedar smoke.

Salt Who hasn’t driven down Lindell Boulevard and waited for the white-columned house to reopen? Here’s Salt, from Wes Johnson, whose fame goes beyond duck-fat fries. Somehow, he’s managed to block the creeping ho-humness of modern American cuisine and turn it into things we’ve never thought of before. There’s fried chicken, yes, but also a scallop in a Mason jar with a puff of cedar smoke. And the fries might be better than ever. 4356 Lindell, 314-932-5787, enjoysalt.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Restaurant Yearlings They’re not the newest of the new, but the following have survived their crucial first year, an accomplishment that’s worthy of a salute—and another visit.

Peppe’s Apt. 2 Taking Hill-style Italian food to Kirkwood was a smart move. Peppe Profeta’s sunny, Franco-Italian decor hits the mark for loyal clientele, and the menu does, too, especially with offerings of small and large portions of pasta and most entrées. Profeta’s carbonara may be the best around.

—G.M.

Brasserie by Niche

800 S. Geyer, 314-909-1375, peppesapt2.com.

Forget the pseudobrasseries, the ersatz bistros: This is the real thing. Thoroughly French fare, dishes are lyrical: shellfish-studded bouillabaisse; the iconic steak, with shallot butter; lovely little touches like airy cheese gougères and cod brandade. It’s noisy, friendly, invariably crowded— and one of the best eateries in town.

Farmhaus

4580 Laclede, 314-454-0600, brasseriebyniche.com.

When Food & Wine magazine proclaimed Farmhaus’ Kevin Willmann among the nation’s Best New Chefs, it didn’t surprise his fans, who enjoy finding new flavors in dishes that often appear to come from a glorious moment of spontaneity. A blue-plate special—one per day—constitutes lunch, and many rejoice at a policy of no reservations for parties larger than four, which can be a blessing in such a small space. 3257 Ivanhoe, 314-647-

Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar

3800, farmhausrestaurant.com.

It’s no easy feat, living up to a legendary name—not to mention doing it in Chesterfield, far from the original. Sure, the beef Wellington and morel pasta are still there. But innovative fare like beef empanadas and flatbread pizza make this a worthy reinvention, one that conveniently doubles as a top-notch wine shop.

Bixby’s

1772 Clarkson, 636-449-6700, balabanswine.com.

A room with a view of Forest Park with well-conceived locavore food has brought success to the Missouri History Museum’s second floor. Sunday brunch is extremely popular, with its house-smoked salmon, mimosas, and flavorful sausages from G&W Bavarian Style Sausage Company. But Bixby’s is also a superior location for a business lunch. 5700 Lindell, 314-361-7313, bixbys-mohistory.com. 8

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Sanctuaria The tapas and cocktail menus at Sanctuaria might be in a high-stakes battle to determine the ultimate victor. At present, they have reached a truly delicious détente. Consider the sweet, creamy Cabrales cigars: Spanish blue cheese and leek fondue rolled into phyllo dough, pan-seared, then

The Animal at Fozzie’s—with grilled chicken, arugula, portobello, and roasted-pepper cream cheese—has devotees howling with delight.

A swirl of pepper jelly enhances Farmhaus’ grilled red grouper with tatsoi and house-cured bacon.

Brasserie by Niche’s financier cake with roasted peaches and verbena ice cream

topped with sherry-raisin sauce. The highly original drink menu has been internationally recognized for its creativity. Add a hoppin’ patio, a wildly decorated interior, and a bar staff who can match cocktails with quinoa, and see why Sanctuaria may be approaching culinary sainthood. 4198 Manchester, 314-535-9700, sanctuariastl.com.

Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium This ain’t no sandwich shop; it’s an emporium, for God’s sake, and that means relentless originality. From the Black N Blue grilled steak sandwich with spinach, blue cheese, and tiger sauce to homemade soups spiced with herbs from Fozzie’s garden, not to mention the Foz-O-Licious milkshake, made with

goat cheese, roasted apples, and caramels, Fozzie’s quirky creativity guarantees many return visits. 1170 S. Big Bend, 314-932-5414, foodatfozzies.com.

Bridge

It’s a feat to create a spot that attracts beer and food snobs both, but veteran restaurateur Dave Bailey has done just that at Bridge, where the bar boasts a murderers’ row of colorful handles for the 55 craft beers on tap (plus a couple hundred more in bottles), along with four-ounce sample pours to help you decide. The seasonally focused menu might boast oven-roasted tomatoes in herbed spaetzle, or a roasted pork–and–ruby grapefruit salad with blood-orange vinaigrette. A Bridge too far? Hardly. 1004 Locust, 314-241-8141, thebridgestl.com.

Peel Wood Fired Pizza Devotees from Wentzville to Greenville, Ill., say it’s the best pizza around. We hesitate to disagree. A 90-second bake in a 900-degree, wood-fired Italian oven produces the ideal crust, char, and chew, and equal attention is paid to salads and craft brews. Peel’s an outstanding example of all things a pizza parlor can be. Look for the Missouri license plates. 921 S. Arbor Vitae, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-6598561, peelpizza.com.

Milagro Modern Mexican One look at the menu will tell you why Milagro’s made such a splash so quickly: duck carnitas in blood orange– habanero sauce; roasted squash and grilled corn with cilantro-pepita pesto;

and standard fare, too, served in a space that’s sleek, modern, and neon- and sombrero-free. By creatively using fresh and house-made ingredients, owners and brothers Jason and Adam Tilford have given Mexican cuisine the respect it deserves, and diners have responded in droves. (See our review on p. 192.) 20 Allen, 314-962-4300, milagromodernmexican.com.

Red-L Pizza

Lee Redel and John Rice are back in business, this time with a pickup-only joint no bigger than their previous restaurant’s coatroom. If escargot pizza’s not your thing, opt for the spicy marinated shrimp; should none of the other 16 specialty pies appeal, choose from 35 toppings and go crazy building your own. Just promise us you’ll try that escargot pie…sometime. 9783 Clayton, 314-997-7070, redlpizza.com. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Half & Half It’s half breakfast, half lunch; Half rich food, half basics like eggs and toast—and completely guilty of attention to every decadent detail. Half & Half beckons diners with dishes like blackberry French toast, a grilled salmon BLT, soft-shell crab eggs Benedict, and citrus-flavored donuts. (Order plain oatmeal if you must, but people might stare.) The coffee menu even has footnotes to explain how an AeroPress will make your microfarmed coffee taste superior. 8135 Maryland, 314-725-0719, halfandhalfstl.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Table

Reel it all in from the counter seats facing the coffee bar.

Dish

Server

Barista Cher Denny, an experienced staffer who runs the floor on weekdays

The fried egg sandwich.

PHOTOGRAPH BY Kevin A. Roberts; Opposite Page: Photograph by Jennifer Silverberg

A fried egg atop Half & Half’s bacon burger: a half-crazy idea only until you try it

Home Wine Kitchen The high-top kicks the servers wear aren’t ironically retro-hip —they just look out of place. But that’s the only thing we don’t like about Home Wine Kitchen. Located in the middle of Maplewood, the convivial atmosphere hits the right note of formality, with comfy seating and butcher paper over linen tabletops. And the menu is elegantly simple, but frequently changes. There’s a lemony, garlicky gremolata, brushed on a veal chop as thick as a Tom Clancy novel and meltingly tender; a luxuriously buttery black-cod fillet; potatoes sautéed in duck fat; and a piquant sage–and– white wine gravy ladled over a meltingly tender pork chop fried country style. And whoever’s in the kitchen turning out the desserts, like the blueberry cobbler that gave us Smurf lips, knows their business. Pricing every wine at $30 is also a fantastic idea, and we appreciate the prix-fixe No Menu Mondays—clever and a bargain. Just lose the high-tops. 7322 Manchester, 314-802-7676, homewinekitchen.com.

Best of 2011

Dish

Table

No. 7, where you won’t miss a thing.

The menu changes weekly—if something appeals, order it.

Server

Roasted chicken with walnut grain-mustard sauce, arugula, and fingerlings, plus a superior side: roasted baby heirloom tomatoes glazed in balsamic and honey

Jessica Paddock, who easily guides diners through the continually changing menu

Best of

Dave & Tony’s Premium Burger Joint Have it your way, indeed. Cheese and tomatoes atop your burger? Please. How about fried wonton skins or pineapple? Can do. Burgers go way upscale here—and become considerably complex as you dictate a smorgasbord of toppings. None of it gets in the way of seriously good beef and fresh, homemade burger buns. This joint lives up to its lofty name.

Dish

Pick your favorite toppings, but get the pretzel bun.

Table

It’s quick-serve— land anywhere you can.

12766 Olive, 314-439-5100, daveandtonys.com.

Server

Not applicable

Better than that trip to Oahu: D&T’s Hawaiian barbecue burger with ham, grilled pineapple, caramelized onions, barbecue sauce, and sharp cheddar

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Small kitchen, small menu, big flavors at Taste

Table

Dish

The pork burger with bacon.

No. 60: It’s upstairs, quiet, and civilized. For groups of two to four, try tables No. 17 and 18, located in the restaurant’s coziest nook.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Ashley Gieseking

Server

Bartender Shannon Ponche. (She can bang out a killer cocktail, too.)

Taste It’s almost a speak-easy, so dark and intimate is Taste. There’s lots of porky goodness from start to finish, but the insider’s secret is the fries, the ones you dip in a glorious aioli. Despite that handicap, vegetarians can manage. The cocktail menu is huge and fascinating. Still, if there’s some obscure drink that you remember Uncle Brewster talking about, mixologist Ted Kilgore and friends will be happy to re-create it—or, just as likely, reinvent it. And for dessert, succumb to the pigwich. 4584 Laclede, 314-361-1200, tastebarstl.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Best New Reinvention

Grilled octopus tops an etching of black garlic.

Best New Idea

Prime 1000’s Dry-Aging Room As more meat eaters understand the dry-aging process, more seek it out. Steaks are either aged “wet,” with natural juices and enzymes in Cryovac bags, or “dry,” in climate-controlled coolers, slowly losing moisture during a prolonged aging process. Devotees claim such steaks are more flavorful, or just “beefier.” Local steakhouses that offer dry-aged meats buy them this way. All except one. Prime 1000 not only dry-ages its meats in-house for a full 30 days, but does so in a small room in public view, further demystifying the process and answering yet another question about how our foodstuffs arrive at the table. The marbled pink tiles lining the perimeter of the aging room may look like granite samples, but they are, in fact, slabs of 600 million–year–old Himalayan salt, the preferred medium for achieving the gentle, indirect desiccation that’s so integral to dry-aging. Other factors to consider are a steer’s breed, feed, climate, and growth conditions—but that part of the story, we’ll leave for the staff at Prime 1000 to tell. —g.m.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Truffles How often does a restaUrant owner realize the moment when his pride and joy becomes stale and stagnant, when a dwindling number of By customers sink George a bit too far into Mahe dated chairs, desiring nothing more than what they ate last week? How frequently do restaurateurs recognize that the light fixtures look “vintage” unintentionally, or that the place just needs a fresh coat of paint on the walls—the spatial equivalent of a hot shower and a change of clothes? Not often enough, we say. Some restaurateurs are too myopic to see it. Others can well see but can’t afford the makeover, never realizing they can’t afford not to change it up. Six months ago, the owners of Truffles found themselves on a precipice and decided to leap, rather than loaf. John Griffiths, a noted chef and experienced

menu consultant, came on board with an Italian-inspired menu (posted online daily) that changes with the bounty of the market: Today, there’s a scatter of sweet Nardello peppers, blistered and roasted; house-made Burrata cheese, an ultracreamy and rare indulgence; a Venetian risotto, intensely aromatic and laden with frutti di mare. Next to arrive was Aleks Jovanovic, an approachable GM and plain-talk sommelier whose mantra is “fun dining, not

Handmade pasta, guanciale, and farm egg yolk

PHOTOGRAPHS by (CLOCKWISE) JENNIFER SILVERBERG, ASHLEY GIESEKING

Half-Day Dining Trips

New restaurants worth the not-so-far journey fine dining,” nudging patrons to try a wine varietal they’ve never heard of but will remember. Every week, one wine (determined by popular vote the previous week) is sold by the glass (a slick, 6-ounce mini carafe), half bottle, and full bottle at wholesale cost. You will recall it was Truffles where you snagged that bottle of Marisco pinot gris for $10 and took home a second bottle for not much more. That Wine Spectator award–winning wine list Truffles was long known for…is still improving. And servers now pour wines at a communal, kitcheny wood-block table, as if they were doing so at home. A perfect example of this personable,

Six months ago, the owners of Truffles found themselves on a precipice and decided to leap, rather than loaf.

affordable, and interactive experience is “Shared Plates,” larger entrées (like a whole flounder) and side dishes designed for groups of two or three. The chairs, tabletops (sans cloths), and fixtures are similarly casual and comfortable. If we could clone all of this fresh air and disperse it liberally around town, indeed we would. In the meantime, let us pay homage to the torchbearer.

Sometimes you just gotta get away from the city’s bustle—get in that car and drive. Ah, but then hunger sets in. Satisfy both compulsions with a visit to the following new restaurants, some near and some far. —d.l.

Shady Grove Grill & Chill Tucked into an unassuming strip mall on State Route 94, this place is one you’ll have to hunt for amid the maze of St. Charles byways. If you do, you’ll be rewarded with an excellent burger, house-made chips, sandwiches, and other bar-type tasties. Do what we do: Start with the pretzel appetizer, and follow with a liberally stuffed blue-cheese burger. 1267 Jungermann, St. Charles, 636-922-1080.

Ballyhoo Restaurant & Bar Local (loud) bands rock this joint, which also has become a spot for some excellent meals. A mozzarella-robed chicken caprese over angel-hair, steak sandwiches, wings—the food’s more eclectic than the entertainment. And with varied frosty beverages, Ballyhoo’s may have single-handedly restored the joy of happy hour in St. Charles. 1048 Wolfrum, Weldon Spring, 636-2446900, letseat.at/BallyhooSTL.

Sushi Sen A surprising exception to the mediocrity of sushi joints in St. Charles, this restaurant has a chef who knows his business. Other Japanese fare—tempura and teriyaki— is fine. But the sushi is outstanding. The preparation is expert, with attention from the rice to the fish. And don’t miss a classic Kanto-style preparation of miso soup. 161 Civic Center, Lake Saint Louis, 636-561-4449, facebook.com/SushiSen.

Taytro’s Bar & Bistro New Orleans–style fare in Festus? You can never drive too far for good gumbo. This one’s spicy and smoky. What about a roast-beef poor-boy or some of those buttery, tangy barbecue shrimp? Or smothered fried catfish? Obviously, this is more than a one-trip pony. 343 N. Creek, Festus, 636-931-1880, taytros.com.

9202 Clayton, 314-567-9100, todayattruffles.com. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Three Sixty

Best New Space

We call dibs on the stool at the southwest corner of the patio, 25 stories up, looking down into Busch Stadium. Only Gussie, now in heaven, has a better view of the game. The Mississippi River stretches grandly nearby, and sunsets from this vantage point are breathtaking. Three Sixty is setting the standard for upscale-casual dining. Inside, it’s sleek, contemporary. Outside are open-air patios with cozy booths, flickering fire pits, and a beautiful bar. There’s pizza, lightly charred, with smoky wild mushrooms; barbecue lamb ribs; crabmeat sliders; a smoked pork-belly BLT; and phenomenal wines and cocktails, all reasonably priced. Go. Soon. 1 S. Broadway, 314-241-8439, 360-stl.com.

Dish

Table

House-smoked salmon chips.

No. 100, glasspartitioned with a fire pit and facing the Arch. Table No. 50, on the southeast corner outside, faces the river.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Server

Catherine Stanford, who goes by “Mississippi.”

Mad Tomato On one of downtown Clayton’s quietest corners, the voluble Vito Racanelli Jr., has given us cucina della nonna, his grandmothers’ food. The don’t-miss dish may be the macaroni with pork-rib ragu, rich and creamy. It’s anything but the stock, red-sauce Italian menu, with cocktails Nonna never even dreamed of. The restaurant is casual in dress and decor, with a large “you dine, we donate” communal table located right in the front window. 8000 Carondelet, 314-932-5733, madtomatostl.com.

Table

Dish

A simple margherita pizza is done right here.

Communal table No. 100 for large parties or No. 18, a corner banquette. The best bet, though, is anywhere on the quiet patio.

Server

Mixologist Jenn Dormuth

Chicken Mattone—here served with wilted arugula and a tomato brodo—is flattened and then oven-roasted al mattone (“under a brick”).

2011 Best of Food & Drink

PW Pizza It’s the mischievous younger brother in Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s family of restaurants. Pizza is simple here: There’s only one size (12 inches) and one thickness (medium-thin). The twicerisen, yeasty crust is elegantly simple; the toppings, like fennel sausage and meatballs, are simply house-made. The wine store next door? Simply brilliant. Located in a turn-of-the-century St. Louis brewery, craft beers are apropos here, too.

Table

No. 21: You get a booth and a window.

Server

Garrett Strong, a young veteran of the biz

2017 Chouteau, 314-241-7799, pwpizza.com. 18 O ctobe r 2 0 11 |

One of co-owner Wendy Hamilton’s favorites, the Santo, is an ideal combination of crunch, chew, and toppings (especially that arugula).

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Dish

The Santo pizza (chimichurri sauce, chicken, arugula, red onion, peperoncini, feta).

PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG; OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS

When pitmaster Skip Steele “fires up” a slab of baby-back ribs, he ain’t kidding.

Table

Feel privileged to snag any seat at any table.

Server

Dish

Believe it or not, the smoked pastrami.

Not applicable, but the entire staff may be the friendliest in town

Bogart’s Smokehouse Bogart’s pit master Skip Steele is a former winner of Memphis in May’s World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, and we’re happy as a pig in mud that the Memphis native hung his shingle in Soulard. Baby back ribs are finished with a light apricot sauce, then blowtorched to a shiny glaze; the beans, cooked in the smoker under the beef brisket, may be the best you’ll ever eat. Smoked hot pastrami and free meat samples for customers in line just gild the lily. 1627 S. Ninth, 314-621-3107, bogartssmokehouse.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

The breading on veal scaloppini needs to be light and crisp, as it is at Bocci Bar.

Maybe it’s not fair that Frank Schmitz owns both BARcelona and Bocci Bar, the two hottest places on the block. Spend a minute with the affable operator, though, and you’ll realize the genesis of this area’s infectious energy. Bocci’s personality, vibe, and alluring aromas are exposed the minute Schmitz ratchets open the street-facing window wall.

Table

The most quiet: No. 22 in the rear corner. The most action: high-top Dish table No. 31, A generousmidscrum. with-the-crustacean lobster BLT pizza.

16 N. Central, 314-932-1040, boccibar.com.

Server

Cory Bishop

20 2011 Best of Food & Drink

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS; OPPOSITE PAGE: ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

Bocci Bar

What’s New

Central Avenue

A handful of new eateries are rockin’ this Clayton block.

BARcelona

Tucci & Fresta’s Trattoria & Bar It wasn’t yet open at press time, and all eyes were on The Pasta House founders to see just how different this trattoria would be. The only Pasta House carryover will be the 12-layer lasagna al forno, but even that will get amped up. No pasta con broccoli? Say it isn’t so, Kim and Joe. 15 N. Central, 314-725-6588, tucciandfrestas.com.

When devotees brush off a July heat wave just to claim a coveted sidewalk table—the ones that stretch so far that they trespass—it’s clear that BARcelona has something its competitors don’t. And for those who prefer a large order of AC with their albóndigas, the restaurant’s expanded its inside seating—again. 34 N. Central, 314-863-9909, barcelonatapas.com.

Bocci Bar This vibrant, new hot spot has it all…well, everything except bocce. (See the opposite page.) 16 N. Central, 314-9321040, boccibar.com.

Coastal Bistro & Bar Diners lamenting the lack of seafood restaurants now have one less reason to carp. Last month, the Schmitzes transformed Mosaic Bistro Market into a small plates–leaning seafood bar boasting bivalves from all coasts. Coastal’s pedigree is solid: When 10 friends of ours dined at the Bistro Market’s rustic wooden table before the switch, the score was a perfect 10. 14 N. Central, 314-932-7377, coastalbistro.com.

McAlister’s Deli Every time we walk by, a little voice says, “Psst, spicy Southwest chicken griller.” Occasionally, we succumb. 4 N. Central, 314-338-2800, mcalistersdeli.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Server

Table

With no reservations, sit at the bar. In advance, request table No. 4, in the window.

Josh McCaulla, equally wellversed in food and wine

Dish

Pan-seared tenderloin with pine-nut spinach is a steal at $10.99.

One 19 North One 19 North’s humongous blackboard apprises diners of upcoming events.

22 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Frankly, we thought the emergence of another “tapas and wine bar” would be welcomed like another song from Rebecca Black. We were wrong, as the continually packed house at One 19 North is our witness. When you’re tucked under a stone archway, a Tempranillo and a wedge of Manchego will conjure memories of that little wine grotto in La Mancha. Fair warning: Whether you visit on a Friday or any other day, reservations are a must. 119 N. Kirkwood, 314-821-4119, one19north.com.

One of the lightest entrées in town: Missouri trout fillets topped with seasonal vegetables

Server

Steve Fairbanks

Table

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

The L-shaped end of a banquette, table No. 23.

Dish

Something unexpected—a cornmeal-encrusted Missouri trout.

The Block Here, the slogan “We Bust Chops” is taken literally, as chef/owner Marc Del Pietro butchers all meats in-house. Sidle up to a 10-ounce local pork chop with potato-and-bacon hash in a comfy, barn-wood setting. Or take something home from the meat case up front. No need to sift through The Block’s packages of bacon, though; they’re all as perfect as what you’d get from your uncle, the butcher. 146 W. Lockwood, 314-918-7900, theblockrestaurant.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Restaurant Post-Mortems We loved ’em. We’ll miss ’em. We reluctantly move on. We’ll miss the private wine room at SLeeK…

By George Mahe

Il Vicino

An American Place

41 N. Central, Clayton

822 Washington, Downtown

Last Meal Served September 26, 2010 Why We’ll Miss It It was a reasonably priced and well-executed example of a quick-service restaurant with excellent salads and wood-oven pizzas. Why (We Think) It Closed A fire on September 27 caused irreparable damage. Where to Go Now Individual pizzas served in a quick-service atmosphere are an anomaly here; both Katie’s Pizzeria Café and Dewey’s Pizza are nearby, but the experience will cost you more.

Final Meal Served November 1, 2010 Why We’ll Miss It To land a restaurant owned by a nationally acclaimed chef (in this case, Larry Forgione) gives a city braggin’ rights. Plus, it remains perhaps the most stunning dining room in the city. Why (We Think) It Closed First was the loss of chef de cuisine Josh Galliano; later, AAP seemed to take on more private events, a frustration to regular customers. Where to Go Now Go where chef Josh Galliano is, of course: to Monarch, where the choices range from an AAP-type tasting menu to traditional Southern fare, courtesy of the Louisiana-born chef.

Riddles Penultimate Café 6307 Delmar, University City

Final Meal Served October 16, 2010 Why We’ll Miss It Owner Andy Ayers was a “locavore” long before the term was even coined. Perusing his ever-changing menu over a quartino of wine was both entertaining and educational. Why (We Think) It Closed Riddles was in need of some freshening when Ayers’ daughter Kate took over. Restaurant groupies were pumped, but the fresh air never came. Where to Go Now For the locally sourced plus bohemian component, Local Harvest Café gets close; for the music component, go ahead and hum something bluesy.

24 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse

…and the delicious dishes at Terrene…

777 River City Casino, Fenton

Final Meal Served November 19, 2010 Why We’ll Miss It The quality, the cuts, the meat rubs…Ruby’s was the finest steakhouse never to be experienced by most local carnivores. Why (We Think) It Closed Casino patrons never warmed up to the high-ticket steaks; high-ticket patrons never warmed up to the casino setting. Where to Go Now As with a deceased artist, only when Ruby’s died did the public take notice. Besides having some lower-

…and the riverboat chic of Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse.

cost alternatives, its reincarnation (1904 Steak House) is unchanged in decor, menu, and concept.

SLeeK

Coming Attractions

Five spots that have us licking our chops for opening day

999 N. Second, Downtown

Final Meal Served January 31, 2011 Why We’ll Miss It Hubert Keller’s cooking skills, his infectious personality, and his prowess as a DJ in SLeeK’s slick Ultra Lounge were always enticing draws. Why (We Think) It Closed A casino steakhouse is a tough sell in St. Louis, even if the creator is an internationally known master chef. Where to Go Now Prime 1000 pairs dry-aged steaks (see p. 86) with modern sculpture and does so in a spectacular historical building in downtown St. Louis, only blocks from where SLeeK used to reside.

Beffa’s

By Katie O’Connor

A lively dining scene is one that’s continually in flux: Some doors open, others close—and new spots are announced all the time. At press time, these five spots weren’t quite open yet, but you can bet you’ll find us at each of them on opening day.

Pastaria by Niche

Gerard Craft’s fourth restaurant promises the best of both worlds: renowned cutting-edge creativity applied to a beloved comfort food in an approachable setting. An open kitchen and wood-fired oven should keep things modern, while a rotating selection of house-made pastas should make it a favorite of foodies and families alike. Watch for a November opening. Location TBA.

2700 Olive, Downtown

Final Meal Served May 27, 2011 Why We’ll Miss It It had no signage, no outdoor lights, and no posted prices. Every day promised fresh-roasted meats— and fresher gossip. Why (We Think) It Closed After 113 years in business, third-generation owner Mike Beffa retired. Along with him went the name and an institution. Where to Go Now We’re not sure such a combination will (or could) ever be duplicated. Regulars convene every Friday at Triumph Grill to keep the fire burning.

Terrene 33 N. Sarah, Central West End

Final Meal Served June 28, 2011 Why We’ll Miss It We remember those long, lingering nights on the patio, nibbling on…chicken thighs. It’s true: They were the best in town. Why (We Think) It Closed In dining circles, a revolving door of chefs and menus equates to a flashing yellow light. Where to Go Now First-class dining on a CWE patio? Our vote goes to Bar Italia or the hidden back patio at Scape.

Tavolo V

Look for Michael Del Pietro’s sixth restaurant to push Italian fare to a new level when it debuts in December. The East Loop spot promises a decidedly modern—and welcome—twist: a strong vegetarian bent with dishes featuring local, organic produce and herbs, some of them grown in a suspended herb garden. Never fear, carnivores: There’ll be plenty for meat eaters, too. 6118 Delmar, mdprestaurants.com.

Blood & Sand

A selection of 75 classic and inventive cocktails from bartenders (and owners) TJ Vytlacil and Adam Frager and a menu from chef Chris Bork is enough to pique interest in Blood & Sand, slated at press time to open in September. Its members-only concept and new-to-STL digital approach to service—in which servers take orders using the iPod Touch, integrated with several iPad stations, to build a “digital palette” for each customer, complete with recommendations—have us downright intrigued. 1500 St. Charles, 314-241-7263, bloodandsandstl.com.

Kelly English Steakhouse

We’re eager to see what happens when a chef who specializes in French-Creole and Southern fare opens a steakhouse. We’ll get our chance when acclaimed chef Kelly English opens his second restaurant in Harrah’s Casino in November. That the Memphis-based English will raise St. Louis’ number of Food & Wine Best New Chefs (2009) and James Beard Foundation Award semifinalists (2010) is just icing on the cake. Harrah’s St. Louis, 777 Casino Center, harrahsstlouis.com.

Baileys’ Range

Who says “artisanal” only applies to high-end cuisines? Dave Bailey’s fourth restaurant will bring the local, sustainable approach to burgers and shakes. Everything at Baileys’ Range, from the bun to the burger to the pickle that tops it, will be made in-house from local ingredients. Antique windows and colored milk cans, suspended overhead, recall a simpler time. 920 Olive, 314-241-8121, baileysrange.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Look around to catch the action, and look up to see the specials.

26 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Top: Thick slices of andouille kick up the Fisherman’s Stew. Bottom: Parmesan pullaparts: biscuit dough, fresh herbs, and cheese

M’s 2011 SL

RESTAURANT of The Year

The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

aking chances. It’s often how good restaurants become Best Restaurants. Taking chances, like opening in the wilds of West County, miles from the supposed epicenter of dining chic. Or like dropping the kitchen right in the middle of things, where the action, smooth or clumsy, is plainly visible. (Note: The house’s best seats are literally stoveside.) Taking chances doesn’t mean going all gastronomía molecular with the food. It’s more a matter of understanding and mastering the value of basics, knowing when and how to unleash the creative culinary imps, tweaking, monkeying with combinations, concocting variations that sound tantalizing and taste even better—much better. In short, Best Restaurants get to be that way By by taking the approach of The Tavern. Dave It’s got brick walls, polished concrete floors, tables Lowry spaced closely enough to consider filching a bite off a neighbor’s plate when he isn’t looking. A board over the kitchen is chalked with the day’s specials (inevitably featuring some terrific, continually changing fresh seafood). Add some big-screen TVs with this week’s game on: The place looks more like its namesake than a high-end eatery. The menu will set you straight. It’s short. Even so, the challenge is finding an offering that doesn’t tempt. Consider the possibilities over a warm, pull-apart chunk of what tastes like rosemary-spiked brioche that arrives Dish The Tavern as you’re seated. How about a sea-fragrant cioppino, burger with overloaded with mussels, clams, shrimp, and a slab of bacon jam. fish in a peppery, tomatoey broth, along with—just to make it interesting—thick slices of spicy-hot andouille? Yeah, I could go for that. Or game hen, the delicate pink

PHOTOGRAPHs By Katherine Bish

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Chef de cuisine Jeff Hubbard, exec chef/ owner Justin Haifley, GM/partner Brooke Curtis, and owner Brant Baldanza

flesh roasted and lightly grilled, juicy-sweet, resting on a tumble of emerald English peas? I could definitely go for that. Meatloaf, maybe, swaddled in bacon and slathered with a meaty, caramel-dark mushroom gravy? A burger of ground chuck, sirloin, and brisket, blanketed with Irish Table cheddar and—this should The chef’s tickle your palate’s imagicounter. nation—bacon jam? You get the drift. Little here is entirely unfamiliar. Even less is what you’d expect of such familiarity. It ain’t over just because you’ve settled on a main course. Sides—typically a dining afterthought—play a beautifully delicious counterpoint here. The cheese mac—ruinously rich, buttery, the cheese mild, with a crusty breadcrumb top—is delectably crunchy. A tater-tot casserole redeems school lunch ladies everywhere. Then there are the starters: baby back ribs in an apricot-hoisin glaze; blackened mahi-mahi tacos; baked artichoke ravioli. Dinner’s helped along nicely with a wine list that’s quirky, bouncing from California chardonnays to Argentinian Malbecs, but always staying in the ranges of affordable and interesting. A rotation of craft beers doesn’t hurt, either. Here’s one other signature of a Best Restaurant: the reluctance to rest on past successes. Less than

a year ago, we were mildly obsessed with the Tavern’s sous-vide egg, brioche toast, and pork-belly extravaganza, as well as the lobster-stuffed toasted ravioli. Both were exquisite. Both are gone—at least for now. Now it’s the ham-and-egg asparagus and a pork tenderloin basted with jalapeño and honey mustard that The Tavern’s cognoscenti are raving over. Finally, a hallmark of a Best Restaurant is that it tends to turn trendy on its head. Ignoring the precious and pretentious, a Best Restaurant begins with an original vision and proceeds, undistracted

by fads or temporary fashions. The Tavern Server proves a great restauWade Taylor rant does not have to be flashy or grand or in just the right neighborhood. It does need a chef like Justin Haifley, one who has that vision and takes chances. That’s a big reason it’s the Best Restaurant in St. Louis this year. 2961 Dougherty Ferry, Ste. 101, 636-825-0600, tavernstl.com.

Five Other Innovations From The Tavern 1 Recipe Cards

After devouring the complimentary Parmesan pull-apart bread, served in castiron pans, we asked about the ingredients— and were delighted when the server came back with a preprinted recipe card.

Options for Everyone Those on restricted diets need not scan the

dinner menu for options. The restaurant’s already done it for you, posting special gluten-free and vegetarian menus on its website.

to benefit Fisher House, which provides shelter to families of those undergoing treatment at the St. Louis VA Medical Center.

A Generous Helping

house-made Saimin

Even before The Tavern was successful, it was giving back to the community. In February, it hosted then–Blues right-winger Cam Janssen and others during a $400-a-plate fundraiser

We were skeptical when the server told us the saimin, a Hawaiian noodle soup dish, is house-made. Even in Hawaii, the vast majority of saimin joints use packaged noodles.

28 2011 Best of Food & Drink

It turns out that chef Justin Haifley makes the genuine article—a rare find, especially in landlocked Missouri. (For more on the Hawaiian dish, visit stlmag.com.)

5 No Ordinary Expansion

After just a year in business, the restaurant’s become so popular that it plans to expand by October 1. The 40 to 50 additional seats

will accommodate weekend overflow, as well as private dinners, receptions, and prixfixe tasting dinners. And that’s not all: A 60-inch flat-screen TV will feature live video, shot from various angles in the kitchen, that effectively ties the new room to the restaurant proper.

PHOTOGRAPH By Katherine Bish

subscription special

78% discount

Get a one year (18 issue) subsctiption for just $19.95! 12 issues of St. Louis Magazine + 6 issues of St. Louis AT HOME stlmag.com | 314.918.3000

Among St. Louis’ newest dining trends:

The Food-Truck

Phenomenon Seoul Taco The Grub: Tangy, marinated Korean beef, pork, chicken, and tofu

tacos. It’s true fusion cuisine from a truck. Be Sure to Try: The basic taco, with steak marinated in sweet barbecue bulgogi sauce, topped with Korean salad, green onion, secret orange “Seoul sauce,” crushed sesame seeds, and a lime wedge. Not as Odd as It Sounds: Korean taco trucks got their start in L.A. and have spread across the U.S. ContacT: seoultacostl.com, @SeoulTaco on Twitter

Pi on the Spot The Grub: That famous cornmeal-crust Pi pizza, beloved by

President Barack Obama and the rest of us. Be Sure to Try: Any of the four 9-inch, deep-dish pizzas on the truck, with two meat and two vegetarian options. Can You Finish One Yourself? You cannot—seriously. Bring a friend or take it home for a midnight snack. Contact: restaurantpi.com/truck, @PiTruckSTL on Twitter Shell’s Coastal Cuisine The Grub: Mexico meets Miami (with island music wafting from the speakers). Be Sure to Try: Grill-pressed Cuban sandwiches, which are hot and filling, with savory roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, a bite of pickle, and warm mustard on Cuban bread. And don’t miss the veggie tacos with Key lime crema, the shrimp melt sandwiches, and the homemade Key lime pie. Go West! Unlike most of the other trucks, it’s often parked in West County. Contact: shellscoastalcuisine.com, @ShellsCoastal on Twitter The Falafelwich Wagon The Grub: Authentic Middle Eastern falafel and gyros. Be Sure to Try: The Original Falafelwich, with neat stripes of falafel, couscous tabbouleh salad, pickled red onion, cucumber, tomato, fresh herbs, and lemon juice. Also take a look at the curried chicken sandwiches, naan chips in three flavors, and watermelon-basil lemonade. Flirting With the Profane: The truck also sells halfsandwiches called “F-Bombs.” Contact: falafelwich.com, @Falafelwich on Twitter

30 2011 Best of Food & Drink

PHOTOGRAPHs by Katherine Bish and kevin a. roberts

In less than a year, the food-truck presence in St. Louis has blown up like metal in a microwave, with no fewer than 16 trucks currently roaming the streets. (There’s even a guild now: the St. Louis Food Truck Association.) The curious use Facebook and Twitter to track down everything from pizza to falafel to arancini. Like other trends, it took a while for this one to travel from the coasts to the Midwest. The recession could be the driving force, with chefs forgoing the expense of brick and mortar. (On the flip side, some restaurants have voiced Cha Cha Chow The Grub: Mexican with a twist. Be Sure to Try: Tacos in great varieties like beef short-rib, Yucatan pulled pork, Baja-style roasted chicken, grilled fish, and curried sweet potato. Also, check out the three-layer quesadillas and Cha Cha burgers. Yum! The salsas, sauces, and rubs in every dish are made from scratch. Contact: whereschacha.com, @whereschacha on Twitter

The Sweet Shop Truck by The Sweet Divine The Grub: Cupcakes and other sugary sins. Be Sure to Try: Cupcakes in flavors like banana split, Cherry Coke, orange Dreamsicle, Thin Mint, white chocolate–raspberry, pink lemonade, and Boston cream pie. There’s also cheesecake, fudge, cake pops, cookies, scones, and whoopee pies. Cute but Dangerous: The cupcakes are a little smaller than average, but the frosting dollops are huge. Contact: thesweetdivine.com, @TheSweetDivine on Twitter Street Life Mobile Food Service The Grub: American comfort and soul food. Be Sure to Try: “Elephant wing” large hot wings,

fried and tossed in Street Life’s own hot sauce. Or go for the rib-eye steak sandwiches, Angus chuck burgers, turkey burgers, fried shrimp and fish, or house-made egg rolls. Rollin’, Rollin’, Rollin’: Find the truck in North County, Earth City, and other areas. Contact: streetlifemobilefoodservice.com, @ StreetLifeFood on Twitter Wanderlust Pizza The Grub: Pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven inside a vintage 1973 Airstream trailer. Be Sure to Try: The “Stinky Tinkle” pizza, with asparagus, prosciutto, mascarpone, Parmigiano, and shallots; or the “Meat Meet Meat” pizza, with crushed tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano, smoked prosciutto, Spanish chorizo, and salsiccia from Salume Beddu. Stick Your Head In: The copper-clad pizza oven in the back of the truck is an engineering marvel—be sure to take a peek. Contact: wanderlustpizza.com, @WanderlustPizza on Twitter 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Guerrilla Street Food The Grub: Old- and new-world Filipino. Be Sure to Try: The asado-glazed pork-loin sandwich is outstanding—the asado sauce is made from oyster and hoisin sauces, ginger, garlic, and chili sauce. Other great options: pork adobo with rice; tocino (Filipino bacon) salad; longganisa (Filipino sausage) sandwiches with coriander aioli and pickled veggies; cua pao open-faced steamed buns with a choice of toppings; slow-roasted lechón pork belly over rice; and a calamansi cooler of Philippine lime juice, ginger, and mint. Superlative: Owner/chef Brian Hardesty’s yen for playing with East Asian flavors has really paid off—the food is superb. Contact: guerrillastreetfood.com, @guerrillastreet on Twitter

Mangia Mobile The Grub: Italian like Grandma used to make. Be Sure to Try: Hand-rolled arancini consisting of hamburger, pulled chicken, and mozzarella encased in a deep-fried, breaded rice ball. Or try the caprese paninis, chicken parm sandwiches, burgers, salsiccia, and beef or cheese toasted ravioli. Hello, Lawsuit: South Grand’s Mangia Italiano took legal action against Mangia Mobile, alleging that the name would confuse diners; at press time, there was still no resolution. Contact: mangiamobile.com, @MangiaMobile on Twitter

Barnyard Kitcjen The Grub: Barbecue smoked right on the truck. Be Sure to Try: Cliff and Earline Collins’ ribs, brisket, pulled pork, smoked turkey legs, and sides. Cliff’s special barbecue sauce is smoky, but not sweet. That distinction he saves for dessert: caramel cake, red velvet cake, carrot cake, and German chocolate cake, all house-made and sold by the slice. Not a Typo: The Barnyard Kitcjen has a J in the middle for Earline’s maiden name, Jones. Contact: Barnyardmobile Kitcjen on Facebook, @ bkitcjen on Twitter

Sarah’s Cake Stop The Grub: Cupcakes, cupcakes, cupcakes. Be Sure to Try: Any of more than 100 flavors (gulp!), including red velvet cake, snack cake, strawberry cheesecake, wedding cake, French toast and bacon, gooey butter cake, raspberry margarita, pineapple chardonnay—you get the idea. And then there are the Nutella brownies, chocolate salted-caramel ice-cream sandwiches, frozen Key lime pie on a stick, and ultrahealthy “raw cupcakes.” You Scratch My Back… Sarah’s Cake Stop and Cha Cha Chow often park near each other to boost sales. Contact: sarahscafestl.com, @Sarahscakestop on Twitter

32 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Holy Crepe! The Grub: Sweet and/or savory crepes. Be Sure to Try: Nicole Shelledy’s light, perfect crepes, formed by grading batter across a hot crepe stone in a kitchen within a converted school bus. Locally sourced fillings can include mushrooms, Swiss cheese, and pesto; bacon, spinach, tomato, and chili mayo; pears, goat cheese, honey, and arugula; and the can’t-go-wrong Nutella and banana. Best S’more Ever: The marshmallow/graham-cracker crumble/chocolate s’more crepe is heavenly. Contact: facebook.com/HolyCrepeSTL, @HolyCrepeSTL on Twitter

Supa’ Fresh Veggie Mobile The Grub: A mobile farmers’ market on wheels sponsored by

City Greens Produce and Catholic Charities Community Services. It’s not a traditional food truck, but we like its mission. Be Sure to Try: The fresh produce, bread, coffee, tea, jam, honey, and Amish products this huge, pea-green trailer sells. And check out how it swings open on all four sides, revealing a perfectly constructed stall with clouds on the interior walls. For Richer or For Poorer: The Veggie Mobile aims to serve low-income areas known as “food deserts” with limited access to nutritious foods. Contact: midtowncitygreens.org, @citygreenstl on Twitter

The Fire & Ice Cream Truck The Grub: Local legends Ronnie’s Ice Cream, Fitz’s Root Beer, and Gus’ Pretzels. Be Sure to Try: Old-fashioned vanilla or chocolate in a cup or cone; the hand-dipped Ronnie’s Rocky Mountain drumstick; strawberry and passion-fruit sorbets; peach ice cream; and lemon ice. Our Forefathers: The truck is a repurposed 1946 Ford firetruck once used by the town of Albion, Ill. There’s still a fire, though: The owners are talented artists who rigged up a propane-powered pipe organ on the roof…that shoots flames. Contact: facebook.com/pages/The-Fire-Ice-CreamTruck/173991145994628, @FireandIceCream on Twitter

Papa Tom’s Gateway Dog House The Grub: Gourmet hot dogs. Be Sure to Try: The Gateway Beer ’n’ Pretzel Dog, with bacon, a dillpickle spear, spicy brown mustard, and melted beer cheese on a warm pretzel bun; or the Bavarian Dog, with beer-braised sauerkraut, spicy brown mustard, and a dill-pickle spear on the same bun. The fries are drizzled with sautéed garlic, butter, Italian parsley, and sea salt. Breakfast of Champions: Open at 8 a.m., Papa Tom’s has breakfast choices including the Hound Dog, an Elvis-inspired grilled peanut butter, banana, and honey sandwich, with bacon optional; and an Early Bird Dog, with eggs, bacon, and cheese in the bun with a hot dog. Contact: facebook.com/GatewayDogHouse, @GatewayDogHouse on Twitter 7 2011 Best of Food & Drink

hello

I’m Herbert.

I’m St. Louis’ savviest deal finder. I scour the city to bring you only the best deals from local restaurants, shops, events, spas, and more. I know your time is valuable, so I won’t waste it on rubbish. I appreciate the finer things in life and—now—with my good buys, you will too.

GoodBuy!

hello GoodBuy! 34 2011 Best of Food & Drink

170 of the city’s

FINEST

across a dozen categories WRITTEN BY JEANNETTE COOPERMAN, ROSALIND EARLY, NICOLE BENOIST EDGERTON, ROSE MAURA LORRE, DAVE LOWRY, GEORGE MAHE, CHRISTY MARSHALL, NANCY MCMULLEN, JARRETT MEDLIN, JOE AND ANN POLLACK, STEFENE RUSSELL, AND MARGARET SCHNEIDER PHOTOGRAPHY BY Katherine Bish, Ashley Gieseking, Matt Marcinkowski, Tony Meoli, Kevin A. Roberts, and Dilip Vishwanat

Read about our first ever A-list Icon

on page 72 2011 Best of Food & Drink

show-me state showoff The Fountain on Locust 

ood

restaurant reiteration 1904 STEAK HOUSE 

What if they built a steakhouse and nobody came? It happened to Jeff Ruby at River City Casino, but we doubt it will happen there again. The dining areas and bar at 1904 are thankfully unchanged from Ruby’s take and are just too spectacular to ignore. The menu’s the same as well: same spicedusted, USDA Prime, dry-aged, bone-in filet; same 2-pound lobster. Go there now, before they elect to keep it the same for the third time. 777 River City Casino, 314-388-7630, rivercity.com.

Words rarely fail us—except when describing The Fountain on Locust—so we made one up: It’s full of “uniquities.” There’s a stunning 360-degree mural, audio clips of a restaurant serial called Soap Hospital, plus a scratch kitchen, ice-cream specialties, and a restroom voted “America’s Best.” By all means visit The Fountain with kids, friends, and visitors…because you’ll never adequately describe it. 3037 Locust, 314-535-7800, fountainonlocust.com.

dessert Chocolate Cake, Tony’s 

Tony’s role as St. Louis’ ultimate provider of luxurious comfort food provides a clue about our dessert pick. Save room after your lobster Albanello for the dark chocolate layer cake with homemade banana ice cream. Three layers and plenty of dense, bittersweet chocolate ganache are the perfect visual and gastronomic foil for the pale, winter sunlight–yellow ice cream. It’s a Platonic combination; you’ll never want banana bread without chocolate chips again. 410 Market, 314-2317007, tonysstlouis.com.

seafood piz za Tutti Pizza,

Anthonino’s Taverna 

St. Louisans are finally becoming (a bit) more open-minded about pizza. Good. It means we can send them off to Anthonino’s on The Hill for a tutti pizza with shrimp, squid, clams, and scallops. The handmade crust contributes, but the shellfish, along with, yes, mozzarella, takes it over the top—even more so with a light brushing of the harissa pepper sauce that accompanies the falafel. 2225 Macklind, 314-773-4455, anthoninos.com.

chicken wings Stadium Sports Bar and Grill

 Not many foodstuffs can claim a transition from

a throwaway to a commonplace item, while offering as many variations as Cher does costume changes in concert. And none better than the colossal-size wings served at the new Stadium Sports Bar and Grill, where the secret is marinating those jumbos before frying. The bedazzled Cher believed in “love after love”—we believed in love A two-handled after our first skillet full skillet is apropos for of these wings. 999 N. Stadium’s monster chicken wings.

36 2011 Best of Food & Drink

dining trend

Dine-In Pizza Peel Wood Fired Pizza Traditional Neapolitan pizza should be consumed immediately after its 90-second bake in a 900-degree oven. That’s the way it’s done at Peel in Edwardsville, Ill., located above a creek near one of the area’s many bike trails. Your reward is a nubby, blistered crust that’s equally crispy and chewy, plus creative salads, dozens of draft beers, and even some expertly blistered chicken wings. Peel convinced us that dining in for pizza can be—no, should be—a first-class dining experience. No delivery, no to-go orders—no problem. 921 S. Arbor Vitae, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-659-8561, peelpizza.com.

com/Stadium-Sports-Bar-Grill.aspx.

sandwich, downtown division Tri-Tip Sandwich, The Over/Under Bar & Grill

 Tri-tip, from the bottom sirloin of beef, appears at

The Over/Under as a steak sandwich, slices grilled to order and topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms, and a blue-cheese aioli, all of this on a French roll. Properly cooked, as it is here, tri-tip is tender, juicy, and flavorful. 911 Washington, 314-6218881, overunderstl.com.

Second, 314-8817595, lumiereplace. Photographs by katherine bish

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Lindell, 314-361-7313, bixbys-mohistory. com.

bread service Ciabatta,

Bugatti’s Steak & Pasta 

For many discerning diners, the bread service is a harbinger of the entire dining experience. At Bugatti’s, they will be dining well. An entire loaf of oh-so-airy, warm-from-the-oven house-made ciabatta is fanned onto a large oval platter. Alongside is a trio of accompaniments: olive tapenade, herb butter, and sun-dried Yes, a loaf of bread tomato relish. One may can be an exercise in be tempted to consume self-restraint. the whole loaf, but take our advice and hold back a wee morsel for the saffron-seafood broth beneath the butter-roasted sea bass. Ameristar Casino, 1 Ameristar, 636-940-4471, ameristar.com.

FOOD early dinner deal Duff’s

 Budget dining has become easier recently, thanks

to recognition of the down economy. Evidence? The Red Bird Special at Duff’s: five choices of entrée, including a vegetarian option, served every day from 5 to 6:30 p.m. for $10. That succulent pork chop with a fruited mustard sauce isn’t lying there alone, either; these are full plates with sides. This gives new meaning to the idea of “happy hour.” Hungrier? A three-course prix fixe is $25 all evening. 392 N. Euclid, 314-361-0522, dineatduffs.com.

sandwich, central west end division

Mortadella Panini, Taste

 Mortadella, the original bologna (made in the

kitchen at Taste), fontina cheese, arugula, and a seriously garlicky aioli dance inside the thickly cut panini. Whether it comes with pistachios (as in Italian mortadella) or bits of preserved lemon, it’s an exciting sandwich. Just don’t ask us to decide which is better. 4584 Laclede, 314-361-1200, tastebarstl.com.

sandwich, cherokee street division The Cubano, El Torito 

This Cubano isn’t Cuban, but Mexican, a torta jam-packed with ham, carnitas, chorizo, a hot dog– like sausage, cheese, avocado, and a fried egg. If you thought Crown Candy Kitchen paid cardiologists, you haven’t seen this immense, delightful creation. It’s utterly delicious. And amazingly, it doesn’t drip grease. 2753 Cherokee, 314-771-8648.

lunch with a view Bixby’s

 Museums aren’t the first places that come to mind for business lunches. But Bixby’s is perfect: open every day, with comfortable chairs, a menu that touches various levels of formality, and food that’s tasty and beautifully presented. What else is needed? How about a view over Looking good! Bask Forest Park, which in the quiet, casual ranges from soothing to elegance of Bixby’s. stunning, depending on the weather and season? As a bonus, the tab benefits one of our town’s great institutions. Missouri History Museum, 5700

38 2011 Best of Food & Drink

upscale/downscale locale The Tavern

 Combining the elegance of fine-dining fare with corner-bar ambience is no mean feat. Toasted ravioli here is stuffed with buttery chunks of lobster and served with a truffle-Parmesan dip. Tater tots are cradled in a cheesy, luxurious casserole. Meaty, tender veal cheeks are tossed with linguine. Basic ingredients, inventively dressed, are presented in an atmosphere that’s swank and sophisticated—but that still comes off like Sam Malone is running the place.

2961 Dougherty Ferry, 636-825-0600, tavernstl.com.

étouffée Louisiana Café 

While being the best Cajun/Creole joint in Dardenne Prairie is like being the best bobsledder in Miami, the crawfish étouffée here is worth the drive. The creamy, smoky, caramel-colored roux over fluffy rice tastes like a spoonful of Mardi Gras. Studded with juicy, sweet crawfish tails and topped with a scatter of green-onion nibbles, it’s a meal that plays all the right notes on your New Orleans–lovin’ palate. 2698 Technology, O’Fallon, Mo., 636-561-8878, louisianacafeonline.com.

affordable sushi Sushi Ai

 The best sushi? Easy: Nobu’s or Seki. Sushi Ai,

though, deserves A-List attention because it affords diners the opportunity to sample a variety of sushi neta, or toppings, without mortgaging the house. The sushi’s made competently to order—you just request as much as you like (at lunch or dinner)—for

Photographs by katherine bish

an amazing price. Sample snapper. Try tuna. This is the place for a leisurely exploration of the delights of sushi. 12644 Dorsett, 314-205-8985,sushiaionline.com.

ethnic cuisine Peruvian Cuisine

Stewart Thanksgiving special. It’s worth the trip to Fults, Ill., to Rooster Hill Farm, a truly A-List dining destination, but note: This farm serves lunch only, except on weekends, when service ends at 7 p.m. 4162 Wetlzer, Fults, Ill., 618-458-6226, roosterhillfarmandgifts.com.

Mango 

Ask for “Peruvian style” when you order the ceviche here. That whack of spice comes from aji, tiny peppers that, along with lemon and lime, onion and garlic, work their magic on chunks of sweet tilapia. It’s spicy. You’ll appreciate the knobby corn on the cob and baked sweet potato that cut the fire—and you’ll be craving more. Mango offers a unique glimpse into a wonderfully unusual cuisine. 1101 Lucas, 314-621-9993, mangoperu.com.

road trip Rooster Hill Farm and Gift Emporium 

Sure, on a per-ounce basis, gasoline is now more expensive than Domaine de la RomanéeConti. But consider: cream of potato and leek soup. A flaky-crusted chicken pot pie. Chocolatepecan-bourbon pie. All served in a century-old farmhouse with more rustic charm than a Martha

view

Table 52 at Kemoll’s Sometimes you just want the best: the finest champagne, the most expensive piece of chocolate, and the best table in the house. It gets no better, and no loftier, than Table 52 at Kemoll’s. You’re 40 stories up, with a panorama of the Gateway Arch so spectacular it’d make a romantic out of Al Bundy. Put away that cellphone, sit back in a soft, leather chair… and maybe even order a bottle of the finest champagne. 211 N. Broadway, 314-421-0555, kemolls.com

Photograph by katherine bish

2011 Best of Food & Drink

special-occasion spot

Bistro 1130 It’s classy, romantic, decidedly upscale, great anytime —but few St. Louis eateries are a better celebration destination than Bistro 1130. Its lamb chops, with a fragrant goat-cheese crust, are perfect to commemorate (finally) that graduation. Anniversaries are splendidly spent over a platter of creamy, asparagus-studded risotto. Still in the mood to celebrate? Try the sautéed veal. This is a refreshingly formal atmosphere combined with superb French cooking. 1130 Town & Country Crossing, 636-394-1130, bistro1130.com

authentic asian Addie’s Thai House 

FOOD gyro The Gyro Company

memorable main course Southern Fried Chicken, Monarch



A tiny deli surrounded by cemeteries, The Gyro Company makes you appreciate still being upright and taking nourishment. In this case, that’s in the form of spectacular gyros and equally good doner kebabs, with slabs of savory pressed meat, tomatoes, lettuce, and sweet onions, all slathered in lip-smacking tzatziki. Whether the mix is folded in a chewy pita or—the doner version—a yeasty Bosnian flatbread, this immaculate, family-run joint serves it perfectly. 7240 Gravois,

 More black-tie than black-skillet, Monarch doesn’t seem right for it, but some of the city’s best fried chicken is here. A light flour-and-cornmeal coating gives a crispy, sweet golden crust to a generous portion of fried fowl. That fine balance between crunchy without and tender-juicy within is hard to do with a deep fryer, let alone in the skillet. Mashed potatoes and gravy provide the essential, sublime side. 7401 Manchester, 314-644-

314-832-2563.

3995, monarchrestaurant.com.

40 2011 Best of Food & Drink

The Massaman version at Addie’s, lustrously gold and supple with coconut milk, is probably the most delectably authentic Thai curry in town. Coriander, cumin, turmeric—spices flirt on the palate. Try the traditional beef option. Along with a tom yum goong that gets the balance of galangal and lemongrass correct, this is superb Thai cuisine prepared to deliciously exacting standards. 13441 Olive, 314-469-1660, addiesthaihouse.com.

tapas Modesto 

Match a glass of light, fruity Xarmant Arabako Txakolina with a golden-brown croquette of salt cod sitting in a pool of lemon-scented aioli, and you’re as close to small-plate perfection as you’re ever likely to be. Tapas, the original small plates, are uniformly delightful here: the buñuelos de bacalao are a glorious, salty, crunchy, and moist reminder that gastronomically at least, size does not matter. 5257 Shaw, 314-772-8272, modestotapas.com. Photograph by katherine bish; dream team photograph by matt marcinkowski

Restaurant Dream Team Server

Owner

GM/Partner

Chef

Daniel Espinoza,

Arlene Maminta Browne,

Brooke Curtis,

Wes Johnson,

The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

Salt

1111 Mississippi When was the last time you found the recitation of nightly specials interesting? Never, except when it comes from Daniel Espinoza, in his ninth year at 1111 Mississippi. He’s soft-spoken but deliberate, he’ll change cadence, he pauses, he stops—the guy’s engaging. You may even ask him to repeat the specials, not because you didn’t understand, but just to hear how someone can make the routine so… pleasant. 1111 Mississippi, 314-241-9999, 1111-m.com.

Robust Most restaurants fail miserably at marketing themselves. Most. Along with husband (and sommelier) Stanley Browne, Arlene is slaying it in Webster Groves at Robust due to her omnipresence in and mastery of all forms of social media. Promotions like “Cinco de Vino” and “Name the Unnamed Dessert” seem especially brilliant given their paltry promotional costs. Are you listening (correction, tweeting), fellow restaurateurs? 227 W. Lockwood,

How many restaurateurs show up on their day off just to say hello to a party? Curtis supplies the first kind word, the final farewell, and on her visit to your table, plenty of heartfelt words in between. A well-run restaurant is usually a busy restaurant. So have you seen the crowds at The Tavern? 2961 Dougherty Ferry, Ste. 101, 636-825-0600, tavernstl.com

Cicerone/ Sommelier

Jake Hafner,

Enthusiastic, talented, approachable, likable…a chef need not possess all these traits to become noteworthy, but in this Midwestern town— and judging from the apparent success of Salt, Johnson’s latest venture—it’s as good a combination as his local pork– and–fennel meatballs with blackberry jam. No surprise that he hails from Buffalo, Mo., population 3,500. 4356 Lindell, 314-932-5787, enjoysalt.com.

The Civil Life Brewing Company He’s so down-to-earth that you won’t feel silly asking him what a cicerone is (psst, it’s a beer sommelier). The gregarious former owner of 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar plans to open soon The Civil Life brewery, specializing in “session” beers, low-alcohol brews to enjoy socially with friends. We predict he’ll have many. 3714 Holt, thecivillifebrewing company.com.

314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

For Lou Rook Jr., cutting steaks at Annie Gunn’s is serious business.

a week at 6:30 a.m., expertly cutting filets, strips, and rib-eyes for dinner that night. He’s septuagenarian Lou Rook Jr., and if we’re all lucky, he’s not retiring anytime soon. As his son says, “The man’s irreplaceable.” 16806 Chesterfield Airport, 636-532-7684, smokehousemarket.com.

FOOD lunchtime buffet Mayuri

 A staple at any Indian restaurant, the lunch buf-

fet is elevated to an art at Mayuri. It’s a massive, multihued smorgasbord whose authenticity is clear on first viewing (or even better, first deep inhalation), its uncommon delights including pakodas, paruppu podi, chole poori, and idli, while the

mango lassi is a crowd-favorite meal-ender. Be warned, though: Spicy here means just that. 12513 Olive, 314-576-7272, mayuri.com.

unsung kitchen staffer Lou Rook Jr.

 The regulars call him Papa, as in “What’s Papa’s

soup today?” Lou Rook III—Annie Gunn’s executive chef, technically his dad’s boss—dubs him “our version of the Soup Nazi.” He’s in the kitchen five days

Readers’ Picks

superior staff Dewey’s Pizza

 How is it that a pizza chain provides the smooth-

est, most delightful service in town? Dewey’s regional manager David Justice doesn’t hire based on experience, doesn’t hire only clones of himself, and doesn’t ask prospects yes-or-no questions. Should a stellar personality show through on the written application, though, you start tomorrow. Four metro locations, 314-726-3434, deweyspizza.com.

retro restaurant Mama Josephine’s

 Retro is so often bracketed by air quotes; Mama

FRENCH FRIES

Donuts

Café Provencal

World’s Fair Donuts 1904 S. Vandeventer, 314-776-9975

427 S. Kirkwood, 314-822-5440, cafeprovencal.com

Open-Air Hangout

You’ll swear there’s no way to polish off that mountain of crisp, house-made matchsticks. Trust us—you’ll eat every nub.

McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden 1200 Russell, 314-776-8309, mcgurks.com

Josephine’s retro is the real, unadulterated deal. While you might detect Granny’s decorating tastes in this cozy eatery’s floral-print curtains or gewgawy wall adornments, most of that nostalgia takes place on the plates, from the “Meat Loaf Mama’s Way” to the pan-fried chicken to the eight-layer lasagna, so homey it’s served in a bowl. And yes, Mama Josephine watches over it all…in portraiture. 4000

Pizza

Shaw, 314-771-4001, mamajosephines. com.

Romantic Restaurant

restaurant to frequent since the smoking ban The Bleeding Deacon

Restaurant

Tony’s 410 Market, 314-231-7007, saucemagazine.com/tonys

Pi Pizzeria multiple locations, 314-727-6633, restaurantpi.com Sidney Street Café 2000 Sidney, 314-771-5777, sidneystreetcafe.com

Brunch

Unique Dining Experience

Deli

Vegetarian

Boathouse Forest Park 6101 Government, 314-367-2224, boathouseforestpark.com Blues City Deli 2438 McNair, 314-773-8225, bluescitydeli.com

Crown Candy Kitchen 1401 St. Louis, 314-621-9650, crowncandykitchen.net Terrene 33 N. Sarah, 314-535-5100, terrene-stlouis.com



The Bleeding Deacon’s a dive bar with a great chef. Such an improbable juxtaposition has served the establishment well, drawing curious gourmands and serious beer swillers, with just one problem—foodies hate cigarette smoke more than barflies hate foodies. The ban has now resolved this conundrum, allowing all five senses to revel in the meatloaf sliders, butter burgers, grilledcheese sandwiches, and bacon-flavored brownies topped with bacon ice cream. 4123 Chippewa, 314-772-1813, bleedingdeaconstl.com.

42 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Photograph by ashley gieseking

On the go? Get

DIGITAL!

on your laptop

on your iPhone

on your iPad

Get

we’re everywhere you are …

Digital Today! www.stlmag.com/digital

SLM’s First

A-List Icon

TED REWES D A By Jeannette Cooperman

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, 6726 Chippewa, 314-481-2652; 4224 S. Grand, 314-352-7376; teddrewes.com.

44 2011 Best of Food & Drink

fter a lifetime scooping and swirling and mixing the stuff, Ted Drewes still can’t quite describe frozen custard. “It has cream and eggs in it,” he tries, “and just a little bit of honey. Honey’s tricky: Too much of it is like a Bloody Mary with too much Tabasco.” OK, fine. But what he’s missing is the custard’s improbable smoothness, its dense, velvety coolness. He tried a low-fat version once, called it Freezo. Nobody bought much, and when he heard his dad ask a customer, “You want frozen custard or that other junk?” he knew the bet was off. He didn’t win his early campaign to switch all the maraschino cherries to tart cherries, either. Lou Gualdoni and Dave Mungenast squawked in outrage. So he came up with a special sundae, tart cherries drenched in hot fudge, and called it the “Cardinal Sin.” He likes naming his creations. “There’s a girl, Mary Strauss, at the Fox, and she always gets raspberry, macadamia, and hot fudge,” he says. “I asked, ‘Could we name that after you?’ and she said no.” He called it the Fox Treat instead. “I really love to name things that make people happy,” he

says, then pauses, thunderstruck. “We need to name one for the Zoo!” He made his first “concrete” for an eighthgrader at Nottingham Middle School. Every day the boy bounded up to the window and demanded a “really thick” chocolate shake. One day, Drewes remembered the old ice-cream parlor milkless “cements” that took forever to blend. Triumphantly, he handed the kid the thickest shake he’d ever seen, turning it upside down to make the point. “Look, guys!” the kid yelled to his friends. “Look!” Today, Ted Drewes sells about 20 concretes for every shake. Success, he says, is just having a product good enough that people want to come back. He doesn’t romanticize his celebrity: He figures the wedding limos only show up because he gives the wedding party free custard; lines only snake back to the alley because there’s nothing comparable in South City; he’s an icon only because “If you last for 50 years, you’re an icon no matter what.” What he’s missing is, going to Drewes is more than a product. It’s a rite of summer, and a South City perk. It’s guaranteed bliss, carefree pleasure, communal indulgence. It’s not low-fat. But it’s good for the soul.

Photograph by tony meoli of meoli studio

Photograph by Matt marcinkowski

2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTB Brasserie by Niche /

Their secret? Free-range beef thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part brisket, part chuck 46 2011 Best of Food & Drink

TBURGERS IN ST. LOUIS Thirty places to experience a mouthwatering, guilt-ridden, cooked-to-perfection taste of heaven on a bun—plus our pick for the No. 1 spot in town

by b i l l b u r g e r o s e m au r a l o r r e d av e l o w r y george mahe joe & ann pollack and a n d r e w m a r k v e e t y

photographs by greg rannells

has been linked to a city in 18th-century Germany, as well as to our own city in the year 1904. We suspect the first union of beef and bread to have occurred long before either, but no matter. It happened—and shows no signs of letting up. In today’s restaurants, the hamburger is as common as a server’s introduction, so ubiquitous than even trendy tapas restaurants wouldn’t consider opening for lunch without one on the menu. With St. Louis’ myriad restaurants, crowning one as the ultimate burger destination is a Sisyphean task. So we took a different approach, asking SLM’s food writers for their personal favorites within a specific category. We hereby present six lists to ponder, all the fixings you’ll need to determine your own favorite. —g.m. the provenance of the hamburger

2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

GOURMET RESTAURANTS by b i l l b u r g e

48 2011 Best of Food & Drink

1 / annie gunn’s / The Classic Burger: Four different cuts of beef, plus slab bacon…so juicy, you’ll never miss the cheese

annie gunn’s

Beloved for its mouthwatering steaks and clubby, old-school décor—and “snugs” that are actually quite roomy—this West County institution has also mastered burgerdom, grinding a mix of USDA Prime strip loin, rib-eye, tenderloin, and brisket. It’s impeccably grilled, set atop a billowy bun that’s slathered with butter and toasted. Annie Gunn’s calls it the Classic Hamburger, but we call it the Carnivore’s Dream. It’s easily the beefiesttasting burger in the St. Louis area.

cardwell’s at the plazA

Brasserie by Niche

Franco

The Terrace View

Plaza Frontenac 314-997-8885 The Meadows at Lake St. Louis 636-542-9090 billcardwell.com

4580 Laclede 314-454-0600 brasseriebyniche.com

1535 S. Eighth 314-436-2500 eatatfranco.com

810 Chestnut 314-436-8855 fialafood.com

With an atmosphere that exudes the “Traditional American” concept of the mid-’90s, right down to the woodburning oven, Bill Cardwell’s restaurants still feel fresh, thanks to his omnipresent vision. Although the rest of his menus change daily, Cardwell’s “Burger Meister Burger”—a thick, succulent patty topped with apple wood–smoked bacon, cheddar and Amish blue cheeses, and a dash of tangy, spiced tomato relish—has never wavered and never missed a day. It’s the Cal Ripken Jr. of burgers.

When you think of a brasserie or of Gerard Craft, a burger is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. But when you consider the classic French brasserie—always abuzz with people enjoying both friends and outstanding meals— it makes sense that a simple American classic would appear in a stateside one. Adorned with only pungent Roquefort, pickled onions, and wild arugula, Brasserie’s burger may be short on toppings, but it’s long on flavor.

Biting into a Franco burger, as the juice dribbles down your chin and the salt tingles on your lips, you realize that frequently all it takes is doing something simply, but right, no frills needed. A bun toasted with care, a patty well-seasoned and expertly cooked, and a slice of cheddar that weeps gloriously over the edges as it comes off the grill is all you’ll get at Franco—and it’s all you really need.

As photogenic as the open-glass construction of Citygarden’s Terrace View is, it’s inside that Jim Fiala’s team has constructed a house-made brioche roll so picturesque it’s easily the most beautiful embrace we’ve ever seen of a grass-fed patty. Finished off with bistro sauce and a chopped romaine, onion, and tomato slaw, this is the burger we order after (or before) Albert hits a home run.

& BC’s kitchen 16806 Chesterfield Airport Rd. 636-532-7684 smokehousemarket.com

2 / BC’s KITCHEN / A touch of Frontenac in Lake St. Louis

2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

bar & Grills by j o e & a n n p o l l a c k

1 / o’connell’s pub / Be it “quintessential” or “classic,”

50 2011 Best of Food & Drink

this burger is all that and a side of fries.

O’Connell’s Pub

The Scottish Arms

Failoni’s

Novak’s Bar & Grill

4652 Shaw 314-773-6600 saucecafe.com/oconnells

8 S. Sarah 314-535-0551 thescottisharms.com

6715 Manchester 314-781-5221 failonis.com

4121 Manchester 314-531-3699 novaksbar.com

The lamb burger here is a stunner. The savory fennel jam on the side is superfluous, but we sometimes succumb to goat cheese and grilled onions, to lift things even further into fabulousness. Strongbow cider on tap is a bonus, and the beer list is terrific. So are the chips. Servers know the menu well, and if guys in kilts make you uncomfortable, just keep your eyes above the table.

This is about the last place we expected to find a remarkable burger. Failoni’s, an old-style watering hole, is noisy on the nights with music and quiet on the nights without— but it always serves these medium-size juicy hamburgers for lunch, between meals, at night, and on Fridays, when a larger dinner menu is on tap. And the plates arrive moments after cooking, another key to excellence.

This gay-friendly bar in The Grove is off the usual burger trail. Its standard Big Novak burger involves two patties, medium-thick, that show no pink, yet remain extremely flavorful. Storytelling and conversation are major forms of entertainment at the threesided bar; nearby is a dance floor that’s packed on weekend nights. During the day, though, we’re just looking for a tasty burger and well-chilled beer.

Nearly three generations of eaters and drinkers have come to appreciate the thick, juicy O’Connell’s hamburger. Tasty even without the bun, it is consistently remarkable, from grill hands who perfectly understand the difference between rare and medium-rare. Sometimesbrusque service, perhaps a legacy of its original Gaslight Square attitude, seems to have softened, leaving an old-style saloon featuring burgers and conversation. #5

Blueberry Hill 6504 Delmar 314-727-4444 blueberryhill.com After a long dry spell, things in the hamburger department at this legendary Loop location have finally begun to pick up. The meat isn’t overhandled, and the burgers remain moist unless they’re ordered well done. We don’t know anyone who orders Provel cheese on a burger, but you can do it here. Blueberry Hill still has a ways to go to reach its former glory, but it is making a comeback. (Extra points, by the way, for the addictive buffalo fries.)

2 / the scottish arms / Wear your kilt…

you won’t be alone.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

CLASSIC FAVORITES by r o s e m au r a l o r r e

52 2011 Best of Food & Drink

5 / fast eddie’s bon-air / Those can’t be

current prices. Oh, yes they can.

Seamus McDaniel’s

Pat’s Bar & Grill

Chuck-ABurger

1208 Tamm 314-645-6337 seamusmcdaniels.net

6400 Oakland 314-647-6553 patsbarandgrill.com

9025 St. Charles Rock Rd. 314-428-5009 chuckaburger.com

When you consider this category, do you picture a neighborhood place drawing steady, loyal foot traffic? Or a driveworthy destination that pleases all comers? Do you envision a menu with anything other than burgers, beers, and fried sides (spuds and onions chief among them)— and if other options exist, do you really care? The correct answer to all of the above: the original Seamus McDaniel’s in Dogtown.

Oh-so-close to McDaniel’s geographically and aesthetically, our other Dogtown fave gets ranked just a notch lower, because honestly, we often do order something besides burgers here (frog legs, s’il vous plaît?). That said, the welcoming, weathered interior screams “Half-pound of charbroiled, coming right up!” And besides: You’ve gotta order something to go with the best onion rings you’ll ever eat.

While other locations of this one-time local chain have come and gone, the St. John’s outpost has been in the biz since ’57— which happens to be the year of owner Ron Stille’s soupedup Chevy. Here, hamburgers (called Chucks) are fried on a flattop, done up with doo-wop, and served with a side of straightup nostalgia. When the weekend comes and our cycle hums, we’re ready to race to you, Chuck.

1 / seamus mcdaniel’s / Where burger “toppings” go on top and bottom

Schlafly Tap Room 2100 Locust 314-241-2337 schlafly.com Lots of dark wood, lots of draft beer, and lots of live bands: the burger-joint trifecta. Granted, the Tap Room bills its menu as “European-inspired pub fare,” with only one of its four burgers coming from a steer. So let’s just concede that hamburgers really come from Hamburg, order another pitcher, and change the subject.

Fast Eddie’s Bon-Air 1530 E. Fourth Alton, Ill. 618-462-5532 fasteddiesbonair.com

Yeah, there’re plenty of other (maybe even better) reasons to gun it over the river to Fast Eddie’s: a pile of peel-and-eat shrimp, a rowdy rockabilly band, the chance to take a spin on the always-lively dance floor. Such ambiance enhancements only make the taste of the house’s 99-cent, half-pound hunk of burger that much more delectably tempting. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

the CHAINS by d av e l o w r y

54 2011 Best of Food & Drink

1 / CHRISTYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S / Double Christy, with pub cheese and bacon. Double appetites only, please.

Christy’s 3957 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. Cottleville 636-926-2222 christyburger.com

The aroma: that sweet, hot grease. The visual: 2-inch-thick wheels of beef, sizzling on a smoking-hot grill. The taste: a juicy Platonic ideal of a burger, meaty, beefy, so big you have to stretch to fit it in your mouth— and that’s before a stop at the condiment station. This is unquestionably the best burger bargain in town (at $4.50 for a Big Christy) and easily among the finest of chain burgers ever put between toasted buns. #3

Red Robin

Culver’s

Five Guys Burgers and Fries

Multiple locations redrobin.com

Multiple locations culvers.com

Multiple locations fiveguys.com

The perfect spot for a quiet, romantic evening—no, wait. Kitschy posters, a couple of kids’ birthday parties in progress… the ambience is “Day Care Goes to the Circus.” But check out those burgers: fat, juicy, easily enough for two, especially with endless servings of thick wedges of fried potatoes dusted with seasoned salt. We’re partial to the Bleu Ribbon Burger, pungent with blue-cheese crumbles, layered with crispy fried onions.

Managing to mix fast food with a folksy diner atmosphere, Culver’s is like an improved, 2.0 version of Steak ’n Shake. The buns are buttered and toasted, the meat grill-smashed, the rabbit food on top garden-fresh. Crinkle-cut fries and Wisconsin cheese curds with the burger constitute a triumvirate of tastiness that can only be adequately celebrated with a turtle sundae for dessert.

We’re suckers for any place that has free peanuts. But the scatter of shells on the floor, the brown-paper-bag service, and the double patties of meat all indicate a serious burger joint. Signs noting the hometown of the fries served that day and fromage American on the must-try cheeseburger are both nice touches. Additionally, service here is so consistently friendly and pleasant, you’ll suspect it’s a cult.

5 / cheeburger cheeburger / Bright enough for your Wayfarers

Cheeburger Cheeburger multiple locations cheeburger.com

We have a friend who—seriously—tried to order a Coke here. Enduring the ’50s shtick is worth it for the delicious, twofisted heftiness of the burgers. Ignore all of the goofy topping choices (Grey Poupon?) and go with that third of a pound of Black Angus beefiness, dressed with tomatoes and lettuce. A combo of fries and onion rings is mandatory. So are the firstrate chocolate shakes. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

neighborhood hangouts by a n d r e w m a r k v e e t y

56 2011 Best of Food & Drink

1 / the tavern kitchen & bar / The signature Tavern Burger with Irish

cheddar, bacon jam, and house-cured pickles. Some tavern.

The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

Anthonino’s Taverna

The Bleeding Deacon Public House

2961 Dougherty Ferry 636-825-0600 tavernstl.com

2225 Macklind 314-773-4455 anthoninos.com

4123 Chippewa 314-772-1813 thebleedingdeacon.com

The Tavern’s inspired concoction of bacon, spice, and brown sugar has conspired with slices of Irish cheddar to make the ubiquitous bacon cheeseburger seem downright pedestrian. When a handpacked beef patty cavorts with caramelized “bacon jam,” additional burger adornments are unnecessary. Diners should wangle a counter seat, right next to the open kitchen. Did you see that? I think I just saw the burger bar get raised in West County.

Hearty slices of garlic cheese bread bookend an 8-ounce beef patty, thick slices of gyro meat, tomato, and red onion, making the Big Anthony a necessary recipient of a knife and fork. Don’t be bashful; ask your server for tzatziki instead of mayo, and plenty of extra napkins, as it’s a safe bet some portion of this masterpiece will end up somewhere other than your mouth.

Travel the upper Midwest, and you’ll run into the butter burger: modestly topped patties with a payload of melted butter on the inside. The Deacon puts a less messy spin on this regional specialty, with a butter-filled half-pound Black Angus patty stacked high with house-made onion rings. This all presents a challenge to the chewy, wholewheat bun, which thankfully does yeoman’s service containing the concoction straight through to the last bite.

5 / clancy’s irish pub / The burgers come in three sizes; the Guinness, only one.

The Sports Page 13431 Olive 314-434-4115 thesportspage-barandgrill.com The projection televisions and neon beer signs say “man cave” as much as “sports bar,” but the kitchen is running a clinic on turning out grilled burgers that would stand out at any backyard cookout. Nothin’ fancy, just fresh, well-seasoned beef, paired with thick-cut house-made chips.

Clancy’s Irish Pub at The Barn at Lucerne 930 Kehrs Mill 636-394-2199 clancysatthebarn.com

Clancy’s collection of tables and booths occupies the darkened yet welcoming nooks of a 105-year-old dairy barn; it’s home to not only the pub, but also a butcher shop staffed by the fifth generation of the Clancy family. Six-, 8- and 12-ounce Black Angus burgers are ground and spice-rubbed in-house. Pass on the uninspired sides in favor of a larger burger, which promises to make all eyes Irish, and smiling. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

editor’s picks by g e o r g e m a h e

58 2011 Best of Food & Drink

1 / DRESSEL’S PUB / We built this one with standard accoutrements,

plus blue cheese and house-made back bacon.

Dressel’s Pub

Truffles

Sage

Sub Zero Vodka Bar

Joey B’s on the Hill

419 N. Euclid 314-361-1060 dresselspublichouse.com

9202 Clayton 314-567-9100 trufflesinladue.com

1031 Lynch 314-256-1203 sageinsoulard.com

308 N. Euclid 314-367-1200 subzerovodkabar.com

2524 Hampton 314-645-7300 joeybshill.com

In Ladue, one might expect a restaurant to be named Truffles. And have a wall full of Wine Spectator awards. But it was the bistro burger, sharing a menu with Dover sole and bouillabaisse, that confounded us. “Must be a good burger,” we thought, but we never ordered it until we wandered into Truffles’ clubby bar, a better home for a $14 burger—and for us. No surprise here that a genetically superior beef, Piedmontese, is used exclusively, promising full beef flavor. The base burger, gussied with cheddar, bacon, and caramelized onions, is excellent; when one adds a side dish (like sunchokes with sage brown butter), this burger becomes a celebration. A bottle of your best champagne, please.

Chef Jack MacMurray III produces his own line of spices, which is part of the appeal of his chorizo Angus burger. You might think a burger containing onethird house-made chorizo (and you thought it was only used in hangover omelets!) would lack that essential beef burgerness, but paired with mild cheese and jalapeño relish, it is one of the best burger surprises around. Not enough pop for you? Jack Mac has a spice bottle with your name on it.

Great burgers at a vodka bar? Like the meteoric rise of Guy Fieri, there have been bigger surprises. (And there’s sushi here, too—good sushi— and a sashimi-tini, which only adds to the mayhem.) It’s hard to resist Sub’s coleslaw-topped barbecue bison burger, but if you can, the veggie burger (one of the best in the city) alleviates all burger guilt, especially when paired with tempura veggies or edamame. Here, another side dish has made a comeback: potato wedges. Hmmm… potatoes and vodka. Now it’s beginning to make sense.

We usually draw the line at halfpound burgers, but Joey has an appetite, so he insists on a 10-ouncer. We can deal with that. Our suggestion: Order it medium-rare (it’s blissfully correct every time), sub the homemade coleslaw for fries, and request the Pisa-like tower of onion rings on the side. Sound like too much food? It’s not, really, provided there are two of you.

No chicken strips. No waffle fries. Not even any TVs. This is a pub, for God’s sake, a public house, a place where people actually talk to other people—not to footballers on flat-screen plasmas— and a place where the fare is as paramount as the wide beer selection. Nestled at the bar, accompanied by a freshly ground lamb burger with goat cheese and apricot chutney, a glass of Bitch Creek ESB, and soon-tobe friends on either flank, this may be as good of a burger experience as can be found in our city. Go. You watch too much TV anyway.

2 / TRUFFLES / A main dining room that fits the ZIP

| February 2011 | 59 2011 Best of Food & Drink

THEBESTBURGERS

And the winner is...

60 2011 Best of Food & Drink

FIVE BISTRO / Where “house” is the operative word: groundin-house, grass-fed chuck; folds of house-made pickles; and a perfect, made-in-house bun. Just call it a home run.

OV ERALL

Five Bistro 5100 Daggett 314-773-5553 fivebistro.com

Foie gras topping? Kobe sliders? Please. Gussy up a burger too much, and it’s culinary parody. Five Bistro shows the way it’s done. Slap onto the flames a two-fingers-thick patty of house-ground chuck that spent its life munching grass. Wait for the beefy, caramelcrusted magic. Then slide it onto Five’s own light, puffy, organic bun just kissed by a hot grill. Add a confetti of tangy greens; lay a gossamer sliver of salty, briny pickle on the side; and let it all make friends with a pile of skinny, golden, hot pommes, frite-ified with their skins on. Remember that at Five, if it can be made in-house, it is, right down to the little dipping crocks of creamy aioli, ketchup, and grainy mustard. That such an extraordinary burger comes from this decidedly upscale eatery might seem odd. But there’s no question: Five’s is the best hamburger in the city. (And at $10, a steal.) What? Still not good enough for you, Herr Burgermeister? OK. Try Five’s burger specials, one with ground brisket and short ribs, another with lamb. True, they’re not traditional burgers. They’re more in the realm of angel food. —d.l.

In a Class by Itself: Carl’s Drive In

Travelers on the Mother Road were stoking the fires here back in the ’50s, fueling up on burgers and fries for the run to Tucumcari. Carl’s hasn’t changed much since. You stroll in and wait for a vacant counter stool. Order, and watch while beef goes from raw to crispy-edged perfection in seconds, appearing on très-elegant paper plates. Lettuce and tomato toppings are just right. Shoestring fries are good; golden onion rings are better. Everything on the menu’s flavored with nostalgia, especially the frosty, frothy, houseconcocted root beer drawn from its own barrel. This is a St. Louis dining mecca. 9033 Manchester, 314961-9652

Pushing the Burger Bounds: SweetArt

Veggie burgers generally fall into two categories: those that are masquerading as wannabe meat substitutes, and those that fill the vegetarian gap on a restaurant’s otherwise meaty menu. But where SweetArt isn’t any ordinary neighborhood cafe—being owned by Cbabi Bayoc (the artist) and his wife, Reine (the baker)— the Sweet Burger isn’t ordinary vegan fare. With a mix of lentils, nuts, carrots, Middle Eastern spices, and a veritable potpourri of other vegetables, this is the patty that raises the bar for what vegan food can be, even for the most well-seasoned carnivore. 2203 S. 39th, 314771-4278, sweetartstl.com

Stalking the Elusive Slider

Like the wolf to the schnauzer, sliders are the primordial ancestor of the modern hamburger. The latter evolved, flourished. They roam the land now, vast herds of Big Macs, Whoppers, Thickburgers. The shy slider retreated to remote urban wilds and highway diners. Unabashedly greasy, grill-smashed meat? Fried onions? Buns with the ethereal lightness of a sponge? You’ve fortuitously wandered into slider territory, pal. White Castle trademarked “Slyders” in 1994; by 2010, imitators could be found almost everywhere, the most recent being those “Steakburger shooters” at your neighborhood Steak ’n Shake. Wherever there’s an all-night need for sustenance, somnolent socializing, or sobriety, the slider will always be there. Long may its aroma waft.

Web Exclusive: Unsung Burger Joints

What do Deaver’s Restaurant & Sports Bar, The Hilltop Inn, and Cornerstone Café have in common? They all serve memorable burgers— but you’ve likely never heard of these under-theradar burger joints. Visit stlmag.com to see our critics’ picks for St. Louis’ best unsung burgers.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss a single issue.

Subscribe today at stlmag.com or call 314.918.3000.

Drinking it all in 45

hot spots to savor a drink in St. Louis By Bill Burge, Chris Hoel, Byron Kerman, Rose Maura Lorre, Dave Lowry, George Mahe, and Mike Sweeney Photographs by Greg Rannells and kevin A. Roberts

There’s been a beverage explosion in St. Louis. First came the wine bars. Then craft breweries began to multiply like a hopped-up John Nash in A Beautiful Mind. Hand-crafted cocktails are now de rigueur, and coffee shops continue to sprout up. SLM asked the city’s experts for their favorites. Get ready to sip, sop, swig, and—sure, why not?—guzzle. —g.m. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

DRINKS/ Cocktails by dave Lowry

150 NUMBER OF DRINKS—RANGING FROM THE CORPSE REVIVER NO. 1 TO THE FRENCH PARADE— AVAILABLE ON SANCTUARIA’S current COCKTAIL CLUB MENU

64 2011 Best of Food & Drink

47TH WARD

Sanctuaria’s homage to bar manager Matt Seiter’s favorite area of Chicago

Sanctuaria

A Great White Buffalo—bourbon and bitters, mixed with orange and lime juice. A Symphony 19—rum splashed into gin, with the caraway herbiness of kümmel. The bar’s stock is impressive: sweet, bloody red crème de cassis; quinine-smacked bonal; New Jersey applejack. It doesn’t hurt, either, that Sanctuaria has tapas like sautéed shrimp and tostones, as well as a bar manager possessed with pairing them with his cocktails. 4198 Manchester, 314-535-9700, sanctuariastl.com.

Taste

In case you haven’t watched Mad Men, cocktails are back— and Taste in the CWE is among the first to celebrate. A small but rewarding menu offers snacks like bacon deviled eggs and pork cracklins, as well as meals like fish and chips and a smoked pork burger. But the dim lighting is all on the cocktails. Taste arrays them by, well, taste. A Subtle Hustle—mixed with orangey Aperol, champagne, passion-fruit juice, and the cinnamon-citrus of Cocchi—is “Tart.” A Purgatory, made of rye, green chartreuse, and Benedictine, is labeled “Full & Robust.” “Classics” include a Manhattan Club and the iconic dry martini. An impressive command of the cocktail craft, a speak-easy atmosphere, and high-end ingredients make Taste the center of St. Louis’ mixed-drink revival. 4584 Laclede, 314-361-1200, nichestlouis.com.

As intense as his cocktails: Ted Kilgore of Taste

What’s New and What’s Old That’s New Again

The cocktail scene is much like the current state of Slovenian pop music: Overnight sensations like Bora Djordjevic suddenly get major airplay. Then somebody remembers that Zabranjeno Pusenje had some classic drops. —d.l. Maraschino Made from crushed cherry pits, it has a bittersweet almond flavor that goes well with rum or whiskey, if used sparingly. A place with Luxardo knows its business.

Cocchi Americano Bitter with quinine, this aperitif opens the palate beautifully. Hip bartenders are using it now instead of Lillet.

Elderflower This fragrant, dauntingly sweet liqueur—often matched with champagne— adds a layer of flavor to cocktails. St. Germain’s a standard. Thatcher’s is even better.

Kümmel A “caraway liqueur?” Weird. It’s sweet and herby, popular in after-dinner cocktails. Go with the German brands, and try it as they do at British golf clubs—straight.

Aperol Tastes like bitter citrus and it’s In, while the similar Campari is Out.

Vermouth Basically an aromatized wine, it’s the cocktail essential that’s never, ever out of style.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

DRINKS/ Cocktails

1,500 square feet that lola added last summer for its swanky new lounge, with djcentric tunes to complement its live music Lola

Crown Royal and Chambord will be your fave—until you try the Dewar’s White Label and Dolin Vermouth. Oh, and then there’s that beautifully simple vodka with muddled limes. Stunningly good polenta fries and a wonderful lobster-stuffed crepe are among the eats at Lola that, along with live jazz, make for an evening of sophisticated mixed drinks. Overlook the occasionally awkward pretensions; Lola’s a great, underappreciated place for cocktails. 500 N. 14th, 314-621-7277, welovelola.com. 66 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Highballs on the Down-Low Where to tipple VIP potables and sip clandestine cocktails

Thaxton Speakeasy A bona fide, weekends-only speak-easy accessed by a side alley. Anyone who finds the place gets in—but those who know the password (check the website) enjoy a reduced door charge. 1009 Olive, 314-241-3279, thaxtonspeakeasy.com. Members Only at Sanctuaria A $20 lifetime membership nets reduced-price cocktails and a Moleskine notebook. Once you’ve partaken of every potation (all 140ish of them), your third drink is on the house—for life. 4198 Manchester, 314-535-9700, sanctuariastl.com. Cocktail Museum Sundays at The Royale In-the-know imbibers flock here on Sunday nights, when barkeep Robert Griffin presents an ever-changing slate of pre-Prohibition cocktails. Expect sours, fizzes, punches, and convivial cocktailers dorking out. 3132 S. Kingshighway, 314-772-3600, theroyale.com.

There’s not one bad seat at DeMun Oyster Bar’s bar

DeMun Oyster Bar

It boasts the coolest mosaic floor in town, a comfy bar—and oh yeah, oysters. Pacific beauties mostly: Kumamoto, Shigoku, briny Sister Points. (And an impeccable oyster poor-boy.) But what distinguishes this place is the attention paid to cocktails: Calvados, Benedictine, baked-apple bitters. Egg whites, gingerflavored Scotch. And Negronis. The bar works spirits into poured potions that make this relatively new place a standout, one that’s open scandalously late. 740 DeMun, 314-725-0322.

Eclipse

We didn’t get the flying cars. Otherwise, all of the Jetsonian glories of the Space Age are captured at Eclipse, which not coincidentally is a stellar (get it?) cocktail destination. Consider: a Golden Summer of gin, Galliano, allspice dram, syrup, and lemon. A lime vodka–and– cava Kaffir Cooler. A bourbon, Benedictine, and espresso-bean concoction, the Americano 43, blended with fruity Licor 43 and bitters—a perfect after-dinner drink. And blending ginger beer with tequila, vermouth, and grenadine? That’s one small step for mixology, one giant leap for cocktail culture. 6177 Delmar, 314-7262222, eclipsestlouis.com.

Downstairs at Brennan’s The CWE scenesters (and smokers) are upstairs at Maryland House, but a subterranean lounge with about 20 Scotches awaits in the cellar, accessed by a door behind the cigar shop’s register. 4659 Maryland, 314-361-9444. —r.m.l.

YAMAZAKI SCOTCH

on the rocks, downstairs at Brennan’s

2011 Best of Food & Drink

DRINKS/ wine by george mahe

25 The Wine Press offers a special appetizer for two and a bottle of wine for $25 from 5 to 7 p.m. each night.

The Wine Press

We’re not sure why it’s the most obscure wine bar in town, but it is. It’s not because of the selection—68 wines by the glass and 35 beers—nor the live music and sidewalk tables within earshot. Maybe it’s because the sign just went up…after two and a half years in business. 4436 Olive, 314-289-9463, stlwinepress.com. 68 2011 Best of Food & Drink

A Wine Bar Checklist Vino Nadoz

What to look for when wining and dining

Restaurant success or failure boils down to the details: design, menu creativity/presentation, proper staffing, and appropriate lighting and sound dampening. Few concepts earn unanimous check marks, but Vino Nadoz gets dangerously close. This eclectic mix of reclaimed, rustic, and radical includes the return to St. Louis of chef Cathy “Crash” Schmidt, who’s been dazzling diners with the likes of polenta “cupcakes” and a steak-and-egg Caesar. Welcome back, Crash. We needed the jolt. 16 The Boulevard– St. Louis, 314-726-0400, vinonadoz.com.

Clean Glassware If possible, smell the glass before any wine is poured. Many have off or bleachy odors. Knowledgeable Bartender/Sommelier If they can’t pronounce Txakoli (chock-oh-lee), then be worried. Too Many Wines By the Glass If there are more than 25, then storage can be a real issue. Red Wines at Cellar Temperature Order white if the red wines are sitting on the back bar. White Wines at Optimal Temperature Unless it’s champagne, it should be served at 45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Ashtrays If smoking is allowed, then it’s not a wine bar—it’s a bar. Decent Glassware It doesn’t have to be Riedel, but it shouldn’t have a “rolled” edge at the top.

The small bar at Vino Nadoz, where “reclaimed” never looked so good

Absence of Grocery-Store Labels The best wine bars don’t play to the masses. —c.h.

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Wine Bar ForgetMe-Nots Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar Its classic dishes are now small plates; its stellar wines are racked up and ready to take home. 1772 Clarkson, 636-449-6700, balabanswine.com. 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar No sign, no ads, no shortage of excellent wines—and all cool. 1913 Park, 314-2319463, 33wine.com. Robust It grouped wines by flavor profile, so many former chardonnay fans are now drinking anything but. 227 W. Lockwood, 314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com.

Via Vino: dark, mysterious, boisterous

Cork

Via Vino Enoteca

All dressed up in black, white, and elegant beige, and calling itself an enoteca with global cuisine, Via Vino might appear to be a bit overwrought, even for Frontenac, but it isn’t. It matches the area like a jacket over jeans, the epitome of comfy/classic, as evidenced by the half roasted chicken with bacon, white beans, and haricot vert cassoulet. A magnet for diners young and old, Via Vino is either new or timeless, just like a Sophia Loren flick—albeit with a louder soundtrack. 10425 Clayton, 314-569-0405, viaviavino.com. 70 2011 Best of Food & Drink

It’s fun when clever collides with utilitarian—when tap water is served in corkstoppered wine bottles, wine racks are made from galvanized pipe and wood planks, and the chandelier gives new life to old wine bottles. Thirty temp-controlled wines by the glass here are paired with good food, like pizza with grilled asparagus and EBLT sliders (the E is for egg). And it’s all captained by a young owner who’s as friendly on accident as you wish you were on purpose. 423 S. Florissant, 314-521-9463, corkwinebarstl.com.

Sasha’s Wine Bar One of our first sonamed “wine bars,” it’s also known for its patio. 706 DeMun, 314-863-7274, sashaswinebar.com.

One 19 North

Archways—stone, faux stone, rugged plaster, even arches within arches—are a motif. Whether it’s the cozy vibe, two-score wines by the glass, or small-plate winners like pancetta-wrapped and ovenroasted shrimp, One 19 is busier than Dent Devil’s phones during a hailstorm—which might be the only time to even consider trying for a table without a reservation. 119 N. Kirkwood, 314-821-4119, one19north.com.

DRINKS/ brews

kirkwood Highlands Brewing Company

by mike sweeney

Highlands is the sole brewer in a historic area that feels like it should have more. Brewmaster Dave Johnson is on the cusp of creating great beers, like the IPA and the Dopplebock. Chef Jack MacMurray also has rewritten Highlands’ menu, which gives you two reasons to go. And free parking makes three. 105 E. Jefferson, 314-966-2739, highlandsbrewing.com.

Six Row Brewing Company

Founded in December 2009, Six Row is located in a building originally used by Falstaff Brewing. Carrying on the local brewing tradition, head brewer Evan Hiatt has produced some fantastic beers, including the Double IPA, Strong Porter, and popular Kolsch. 3690 Forest Park, 314-531-5600, sixrowbrewco.com.

Buffalo Brewing Co.

In the heart of midtown, Buffalo Brewing maintains an innovative edge with its spicy Chili Beer and one-off creations like the Swan Song Belgian-American Rye IPA. The alfresco seating also provides a perfect spot for summer. 3100 Olive, 314-534-2337, buffalobrewingstl.com.

On the Menu

coming this year… Perennial Artisan Ales Phil Wymore plans to use what he learned at Half Acre Beer to brew up innovative beers near Carondelet Park. (Projected opening: May)

number of microbreweries that have opened or are slated to open in st. louis this year alone (and that’s as of our late-april press date)

Exit 6 Pub and Brewery This nanobrewery will only make a 31-gallon barrel of beer at a time, which allows for experimentation— but blink, and that beer could be gone. (Projected opening: mid-June)

ENGLISH PALE ALE

One of 14 beers now offered at Kirkwood Highlands Brewing

The Civil Life Brewing Co. When he owned 33 Wine Bar, Jake Hafner tried the world’s finest beers. He and brewer Dylan Mosley plan to emulate those that will translate into “session” beers. (Projected opening: late June)

4 Hands Brewing Company Located in LaSalle Park, 4 Hands is planning to use a 12,000-squarefoot space to make and distribute four year-round beers and a number of seasonals. (Projected opening: July) 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Brewery Forget-MeNots Schlafly Tap Room Tom Schlafly and company are a big reason St. Louis is experiencing a beer renaissance. Twenty years young, the Tap Room remains one of the city’s finest brewpubs. 2100 Locust, 314-2412337, schlafly.com. Morgan Street Brewery Morgan Street has tweaked its recipes to boast St. Louis’ best lagers—its Golden Pilsner won gold at the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup. 721 N. Second, 314-231-9970, morganstreetbrewery. com. O’Fallon Brewery Unlike many breweries, O’Fallon Brewery succeeded without a brewpub, creating Wheach and 5-Day IPA, two of the region’s most popular beers. 26 W. Industrial, O’Fallon, Mo., 636-474-2337, ofallonbrewery.com.

72 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Wheat beer in a Weizen glass, the proper vessel to showcase its fluffy head

Urban Chestnut Brewing Company

All new businesses start with a dream, and the dream of every brewer is to open a brewery. Florian Kuplent used to brew at AnheuserBusch, until he and nowpartner David Wolfe left to open Urban Chestnut (above) in midtown. There, they produce two lines: the Reverence series, which explores traditional brewing styles, and the Revolution series, which pushes the boundaries of what beer can be. 3229 Washington, 314-2220143, urbanchestnut.com.

Ferguson Brewing Company

There was a time in St. Louis’ past when you couldn’t drink more locally than the brewery down the street. In North County, Ferguson Brewing is helping revive that tradition. With its St. Louis Pale Ale, Classic American Pilsner, and Belgian White, there’s a style for every taste profile. 418 S. Florissant, 314-521-2220, hillbrewingco.com.

DRINKS/ Beer-Centric restaurants by mike sweeney

20 countries from which itap gets its beers Drinks 101 Kaldi’s Roasting and Barista Education Center First, attend a coffee “cupping.” Then check out one or all of the nine classes, the same that Kaldi’s baristas must attend. 888-8926333, kaldiscoffee.com. Cicero’s Beer School Far more informative than a brewery tour, CBS is the preeminent beer school in town. 314-862-0009, cicerosbeerschool.com. Proof Academy Learn about beer, wine, and cocktails in classes that are taught by the city’s foremost drink aficionados. 314-229-2825, proofacademy.com.

MIX AND MATCH

Create your own flight of five beers at iTap.

International Tap House

Not only does the flagship location boast the area’s biggest beer selection (500 and counting), it’s also held some memorable events: a Hoosier Halloween with mullets and Southern rock, as well as the iTap Prom, with a DJ and guys in puffy-shirt tuxes. 161 Long, 636-537-8787; 1711 S. Ninth, 314-621-4333; internationaltaphouse.com. 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Bridge

With its warm atmosphere and lengthy drink list, Bridge is unlike any other beer destination in St. Louis. Featuring more than 55 drafts, it has one of the city’s largest tap selections. And as with all of Dave Bailey’s restaurants, this tap house and wine bar has a major focus on “local.” Like that beer you’re drinking? Ask for a growler to go. 1004 Locust, 314-241-8141, thebridgestl.com.

Bigelo’s Bistro

Over the past decade, Bigelo’s has quietly assembled an eclectic beer selection and delicious lunch menu in downtown Edwardsville. Co-owner Mark Pruitt also hosts one of the town’s best monthly beer dinners; act fast, though, as the dinners fill faster than a pilsner shooter glass. 140 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-655-1471, bigelosbistro.com.

The Good Pie

If beer and pizza is the typical college dinner, then beer and pizza at The Good Pie is a Ph.D.–level experience. Owner Mike Randolph is a self-confessed beer geek, so there’s an ever-changing selection of drafts and an unusual bottle selection. And with the restaurant’s thousanddegree wood-fired oven, your pizza’s often served by the time you’ve decided which beer to pair it with. 3137 Olive, 314-289-9391, thegoodpie.com.

74 2011 Best of Food & Drink

The Stable

Housed in the former Lemp Brewery stables, The Stable is a cathedral to St. Louis’ storied brewing history. Choose from 36 different (and continually rotating) drafts or several house-brewed Amalgamated craft beers. Not surprisingly, the emphasis here is on German-style beers, with excellent creations like the Helles (a light but malty lager) and the Zoigl (a lager historically brewed in Bavarian town squares). 1821 Cherokee, 314-771-8500, thestablestl.com.

At The Stable, come for the beer, but don’t miss that 14-foot-tall, marquiseshaped crystal chandelier.

DRINKS/ coffee

Foundation Grounds

by bill burge

Foundation Grounds serves as a beacon at one end of Maplewood’s revitalized Manchester Road. With an organic atmosphere that draws people in for the equally organic Goshen coffee, there’s no mistaking the good juju—you’ll feel like you belong before your first refill. 7298 Manchester, 314-601-3588, foundationgrounds.com.

THE MUD HOUSE

Few shops rival The Mud House’s community vibe. Whether you’re curled up on the couch or gobbling a grassfed burger from chef Chris Bork’s local-oriented menu, you can tell this is a venue lovingly adopted by its South City neighbors. 2101 Cherokee, 314-776-6599, mudhouse.com.

creativity + caffeine A bumblebee, a giraffe, and Dudley Moore: The Mud House’s Casey Miller has created amazing likenesses of them all—but not in the same mug. Miller has developed an uncanny knack for “drawing” figures and designs with the end of a cooking thermometer in every latté she serves up and loves to take requests. “One girl requested John Mayer,” says Miller. “I’ve done Che Guevara, people’s dogs, turtles, the Eiffel tower… “Sometimes I don’t know what it’s gonna wind up looking like,” she says. “I just pour the milk in and see what happens—it’s like a Rorschach test.” —b.k.

6 The number of ounces in a traditional cup of coffee, and so the size of the china cup at foundation grounds

2011 Best of Food & Drink

Coffee ForgetMe-Nots Kaldi’s Coffee Before coffee hit its third wave (the dawn of the barista), there was Kaldi’s—the chain that raised the bar in St. Louis, especially at its Clayton location. 187 Carondelet Plaza, 314-726-2900, kaldiscoffee.com.

Picasso’s: Modern coffee in old St. Charles

Picasso’s Coffee House

Drive west to discover one of the area’s best coffee shops in the heart of St. Charles. There, nestled between historic Main Street’s antique shops, you’ll find Picasso’s talented baristas delivering some of the region’s finest milk-based drinks. 101 N. Main, St. Charles, 636-925-2577, picassoscoffeehouse.com.

Shaw’s Coffee

This bank-turned-coffee shop brings a flavor of the Northwest to The Hill. Its antique German roaster is impressive, but it’s another impressive feature that serves as the perfect sitting area: a walk-in vault housing a comfy chair, perfect for an afternoon of reading. 5147 Shaw, 314-771-6920, shawscoffee.com.

Just Add Half & Half

Foam Coffee & Beer

By day, this funky café anchors hip Cherokee Street, fueling its minions with shots of Northwest Coffee. But at night, things really get kicking, when the shop starts pouring cold Schlafly to enjoy with your favorite local bands. 3359 S. Jefferson, 314-772-2100, foamstl.com.

While we’re confident the food (half breakfast, half lunch) will be first-rate at Half & Half—the new venture from The Good Pie’s Mike Randolph—it’s the “coffee program” that has Randolph most excited. Former Kaldi’s star barista Mike Marquard is shepherding the project, which will include espresso, lattés, and three forms of drip brewing from which customers can choose: the Beehouse (now Zero Japan) pour-over, the Chemex carafe, or the Aeropress. —b.b.

76 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Northwest Coffee Roasting Company Roasting small batches twice a week since 2003, Northwest continues to brew the freshest coffee in St. Louis. 4251 Laclede, 314-371-4600, northwestcoffee.com. Goshen Coffee Goshen, located within 222 Artisan Bakery, is the area’s only 100 percent– organic roaster, and its signature Bona Fide blend is now a local staple. 222 Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-659-1122, goshencoffee.com.

B�t Breakf�� 50 eye-opening ways to start your day in st. Louis

70 DECE M BER 2011 |

A sampling of breakfast goodies from Winslow’s Home

By Bill Burge, Byron Kerman, rose maura lorre, Dave lowry, george mahe, Katie o’Connor, Joe anD ann PollaCK, anD anDrew marK veety

Edited by George Mahe PhotograPhs by greg rannells and Kevin a. roberts 78 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 71

Benton Park Cafe

In our opinion, eggs Benedict and fresh fruit are the perfect breakfast pairing.

This is breakfast with attitude. Not the service, mind you, which is known for being personable. On paper is where the cheekiness shines through. The McGrittl This thumbs its nose at fastfood fare with scrambled eggs, cheese, and sausage sandwiched between fluffy pancakes, doused with syrup. The bombastic Chairman of the Board is filet mignon and eggs. A Benedict comes regular or Ultimate, rounded out with sautéed spinach, tomato, bacon, and avocado. Not even good ol’ biscuits and gravy escapes BPC’s sauciness—the biscuits are made with beer. 1900 arsenal, 314-771-7200, BentonParKCafe.Com.

Soulard Coffee Garden You don’t eat at Soulard Coffee Garden. You dine. Since its humbler beginnings as a coffee-and-bagels joint a decade ago, this nabe favorite—already renowned for its pastoral back patio—has instituted table service and a full-on breakfast menu. It has six different omelets, four kinds of eggs Benedict, a quartet of breakfast sandwiches, steak and eggs, slingers, huevos rancheros…and a mimosa, poured tableside from your own singleserving bottle of bubbly. For dessert? Let them eat scones. 910 geyer, 314-241-1464, soulardcoffeegarden.com.

The Mud houSe

Coffee Shop

An unofficial (read: imaginary) survey confirms: The Mud House is the only place in St. Louis (or on the planet?) where you can purchase a full English breakfast (fried eggs, beans, toast, tomato slices, sautéed mushrooms, buttered toast) and a used vinyl LP. At this wonderfully welcoming cafe, kickin’ it old-school is just how they do it—and not just when it comes to records. Traditional, straightforward breakfast items, like the heavenly French toast, are worth the (occasional) wait. 2101 Cherokee, 314-776-6599, themudhousestl.com.

72 DECEMB ER 2011 |

2011 Best of Food & Drink

photogRaphs By gREg RannElls

Diner A special that quickly became a house favorite: chicken and waffles

oliveTTe diner Above the counter, there’s a framed copy of the 1974 album Flat as a Pancake by Metro East rockers Head East. The one-hit wonders (whose sole single was “Never Been Any Reason”) were photographed cramming pancakes here when it was known as the Rite-Way Diner. It’s all about the nostalgia—apropos for a joint that’s been around since 1958. The omelets, bacon and eggs, slingers, waffles, and pancakes are all solid, but it might just be the relentless Midwestern friendliness of the servers and cooks that keeps folks coming back. The photos of regulars on the walls and refusal to take credit cards complete the scene: This is a real diner with real breakfast for real people. 9638 olive, 314-995-9945.

CiTy diner While purists debate the elements constituting an American diner, we’ll narrow it down to one: If the lights are on, breakfast better be as well. Make for a counter seat, an endless cup of Joe, and the forefather of the St. Louis slinger—a hash of thick-cut corned beef, onions, and crisp breakfast potatoes, topped off with two sunny-side-up eggs.

Goody Goody Diner

All of a sudden, the buzz about Goody is all about the chicken and waffles. But that’s only a small part of the largest, most definitive breakfast menu in town, which happily fulfills every hope of diner-lovers. The corned-beef hash is splendid. Lots of sunshine and friendly servers, a real cross-section of St. Louisans, and a fair amount of tourists fill the booths and counter. The wait on Saturday mornings is worth it; the wait on Sundays is not, as Goody’s is closed. 5900 natural BriDge, 314-383-3333, gooDygooDyDiner.Com.

541 n. grand, 314-533-7500; 3139 s. grand, 314-772-6100; citydiner.us.

Dining symBols

= Daily

= weekends

= sundays only

Note: Some restaurants are closed on certain days. Check hours before going.

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 73

Buffet at a Casino

Landmark Buffet, Ameristar Casino

Homey touches and a beverage Grandma never considered: champagne

There are cheaper casino brunches in town, but there are none better than Ameristar’s $17.95 champagne brunch. One chef carves turkey breast, tri-tip, and bone-in ham to order; another stands at a circular, Mongolian-style iron griddle, awaiting your stir-fry request; a third, perched next to a three-tiered chocolate fountain, makes sure you’re aware of the myriad pastry selections. Even the pizza station goes all-out: The homemade pizza crusts have flaky, frilled edges. And yes, there’s the champagne bar—but somehow we were too dazed to indulge. 1 ameristar, st. Charles, 636-949-7777, ameristar.Com/st_Charles.asPx.

 Buffet at a hotel

ProvinCeS reSTauranT, hilTon ST. louiS fronTenaC Here’s a sleeper, or more accurately, a reason not to sleep away your Sunday. The nicely priced brunch at the Hilton St. Louis Frontenac wins the bacon sweepstakes with crisp, thick slices and earns high marks for amazing baked chicken and a wide variety of traditional brunch fare. Fresh hollandaise brightens the Benedicts, served atop real Canadian bacon. And bonus points for special juices like strawberry-orange. 1335 s. lindbergh, 314993-1100, hilton.com.  Buffet at a restaurant

BriSTol Seafood Grill Earning a lofty reputation in the brunch biz isn’t easy. Maintaining it is harder still. But 29-year-old Bristol has done just that, all the while remaining value-priced ($21.95 for adults). You can bet your bobber you’ll see some unusual seafood items—tempurashrimp sushi rolls, cioppino, chipotle shrimp quesadillas—plus prime rib and a full breakfast bounty to maintain balance. Oh, and to those who think repeated offerings of freshfrom-the-oven, cinnamon-raisin biscuits are a diversion, we say divert already. 11801 olive,

Buffet

314-567-0272; 2314 technology, o’fallon, 636-625-6350; bristolseafoodgrill.com.

74 DECEMB ER 2011 |

photogRaphs By gREg RannElls 81 2011 Best of Food & Drink

How to begin a civilized brunch: Ask for a table on Scape’s rear patio

Alfr�co Wild floWer Wild Flower draws guests to the corner of Euclid and Laclede avenues with a menu that goes beyond the same tired choices, with twists including a pulled-pork Benedict and a Monte Cristo sandwich. The quiche and pancakes change weekly; a bit of pumpkin brightens a waffle; biscuits and gravy comfort both stomach and soul. The lone difficulty at times is spotty service. Be patient. It’s worth the wait. 4590 laclede, 314-367-9888, wildflowerdining.com.

vin de SeT The expansive rooftop patio, complete with a heated tent to extend the alfresco season, provides a glimpse of the Arch and a great place to kick-start a lazy Sunday. Twenty bucks allows access to a buffet chock-full of the usual breakfast suspects, including made-to-order omelets and waffles and a prime-rib carving station. The real deal here, though, is the cocktails: A bloody Mary bar lets you fine-tune the classic eye-opener to your liking, and $10 unlimited champagne cocktails supply the perfect leadin to an afternoon nap. Another mimosa? Yes, please. 2017 Chouteau, 314-241-8989, vindeset.com.

TaBle Three It’s hard to pick what’s most appealing about the patio at Table Three: the country air, the purl of the nearby fountain, the chatter of West County cardinals, that bartender making a bacon bloody Mary, the eggs Benedict with potato pancakes and fresh fruit… You decide. We can’t make up our minds. 16765 main,

Scape On a Sunday morning, we often crave something as simple as fried eggs, sausage links, and toast. When we can ramp up that order to farm-fresh organic eggs, chef Eric Kelly’s homemade chicken sausage, and lemon-currant scones or homemade sourdough toast—and can do so at one of Scape’s people-watching sidewalk tables, punctuated by steaming refills of illy coffee—we do. You’d like more privacy? ’Scape to the rear patio or one of the semicircular booths inside, where chef Kelly’s food is equally delicious. 48 marylanD Plaza, 314-361-7227, sCaPestl.Com.

wildwood, 636-458-4333, table-three.com.

82 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MBER 201 1 75

Omelets can be made to order using one filling or a dozen

Best soul fooD Delmonico Diner

and for the Cheapest Brunch in Town…

For those who’ve had enough of fancy, “rethought” morning food, this is the place. The cafeteria line doesn’t mean that eggs aren’t cooked to order, including tender scramblers. The potatoes? They’re fabulous, full of onions and gently sautéed to a tender brown. Beyond handmade biscuits and St. Louis’ usual breakfast items, think Polish sausage, salmon cakes, grits, sweet tea, and perhaps peach cobbler. The homey dining room, with its wide assortment of tables and chairs, gets lots of locals and everything from Bible study groups to post–night shift nurses. The only day of the week you can’t get breakfast here is Monday. 4909 Delmar, 314-361-0973.

For the times when dropping a Benjamin at brunch seems foolhardy (and that’s a lot of the time), try to snag a seat at the popular weekend brunch at Ari’s Restaurant & Bar. It’s hard not to be tempted by the slogan “same price, six years,” especially when that price is $6.95 for adults and $3.95 for kids. Sure, there are all the breakfast-buffet standards, but our preference is the omelet station and a request for one with fresh spinach, mushroom, Swiss, and feta. We stop for a scatter of link sausage and bacon, as well as a bit of fresh fruit from a bowl that’s the size of the Peloponnesus, and proceed to enjoy the bounty. At $6.95, the bloody Mary made with cucumber vodka is worth the splurge. Oh, and if you’re thinking Ari’s will get its evens by charging $2.50 for a cup of coffee with no refills, think again: Coffee and tea are included in the price—and have all the refills you want. —g.m. 3101 hamPton, 314-644-4264, arisrestaurantstl.Com.

st. louis stalwarts

Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House, two locations, 314-832-1973

76 DECEMB ER 2011 |

Chris’ Pancake & Dining, 5980 Southwest, 314-645-2088

The Majestic Restaurant & Bar, 4900 Laclede, 314-361-2011

Schneithorst’s, 1600 S. Lindbergh, 314-993-5600

2011 Best of Food & Drink

photogRaphs By kEvin a. RoBERts

Dolce’s justifiably famous biscuits and gravy

A Little Jazz with Yo ur Jambo n? The Sunday jazz brunch at Jimmy’s on the Park hits all the right notes. The brunch fare is decadent and over-thetop, the way brunch fare should be: eggs Benedict topped with tenderloin steak; real lump crabmeat folded into a “crablette” omelet; not tidy-and-trite crepes, but chicken-and-mushroom crepes bathed in a white-wine, lemonsage cream sauce. Then there are the musical notes, scatted hither, yon, and onto the patio by the jazz duo of Jim Manley and Mark Friedrich, sounds made even sweeter by $5 cocktails. —r.m.l. 706 Demun, 314-725-8585, JimmysCafe.Com.

Best Biscuits & Gravy la DolCe via Long among the best bakeries in town, this place has morphed into a massively popular brunch destination. Maybe it’s the tiny, impossibly sweet wild blueberries in the pancakes, or the spicy-hot bed of potatoes hidden under the fluffy scrambled eggs. Probably, though, it’s the world’s most decadent breakfast that’s become the house specialty: cheesethreaded scone “biscuits” blanketed with a “gravy” of lamb sausage, topped with a fried egg. With desserts like mascarpone cheesecake and zabaglione, the via’s dolce here. It’s also brunch-o-licious. 4470 arCo, 314-534-1699, laDolCeviaBaKery.Com.

a Better BreaKfast… at white Castle? While White Castle has served as the wee-hours breakfast of champions for generations, it’s now gone into the serious breakfast business. We call it serious because it cooks the eggs when ordered. White Castle’s square buns arrive laden with hard-fried egg and sausage, bacon, cheese, or—mirabile dictu—an original Castle, that onion-laden patty of heaven. An egg, a Castle, and jalapeño cheese is perhaps the most fabulous combination. Adding bacon might put this totally over the top. Bonus points to those locations that serve breakfast 24/7. —j.p. and a.l.p. multiPle loCations, 800-843-2728, whiteCastle.Com.

84 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 77

Lu Lu Seafood Lu Lu has so many dim sum options, our kids call it “chopsticks practice.”

It’s noisy and always crowded. Whole families gather, awaiting those wheeled carts loaded with magic: plump shrimp dumplings, pork-stuffed buns, pot stickers, spareribs slathered in hoisin sauce, crispy spring rolls, custard tarts. As the trays roll by, you select what you want, eating at a leisurely pace while sipping steaminghot tea and solving the world’s problems. Is there a more civilized way to start the day than with a dim sum brunch? Not likely. 8224 olive, 314-997-3108, luluseafooD.Com.

Ethnic MilaGro Modern MexiCan Don’t let the label “modern” dissuade you. Milagro serves some of the best traditional and regional takes on Mexican cuisine in St. Louis. House-made chorizo spices up brunch classics like scrambled eggs and omelets, but the sausage also shines in Milagro’s take on breakfast tacos. A sleeper (siesta?) item is the traditional Mexican hangover cure chilaquiles (corn tortillas slowly simmered in salsa), the perfect companion to a sampling from the tequila-centric bloody Maria bar. 20 allen, 314-962-4300, milagromodernmexican.com.

Taqueria el BronCo Though it’s one of a trio of Cherokee restaurants that have recently relocated into expanded digs, El Bronco is the only one open early enough to enjoy a traditional Mexican breakfast. Consisting mostly of huevos scrambled with any number of meats, alongside a platter of beans and the best Mexican rice we’ve ever tasted, huevos con chorizo is the clear favorite. Scoop a little of each item into a freshly steamed corn tortilla, top it with one of two fresh salsas, and just try to tell us we’re wrong. 2817 Cherokee, 314-762-0691.

78 DECEMB ER 2011 |

85 2011 Best of photogRaphs Food & Drink By gREg RannElls

Three MonkeyS

Most Unlikely PlaCes for BrunCh

Three Monkeys holds court on its corner of the resurgent Morgan Ford strip in South City, enjoying the loyalty of neighbors, many of whom start their Sunday with an expansive brunch just a few feet from the lacquered bar where their Saturday night ended. Breakfast standards abound, but regulars make for the made-to-order omelet station and dig into lemon-kissed poached salmon between sips of a sinfully spicy bloody Mary. Wise monkeys, indeed. 3153 morgan ford, 314-772-9800, 3monkeysstl.com.

The SCoTTiSh arMS

Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café Sure, you know the giant cupcakes—it’s what Jilly’s is all about. Except on Sunday mornings, when this cupcake bar becomes all about executive chef Dana Holland’s brunch fare. Holland puts out a helluva spread, served buffet-style, a gamut going from housemade pâtés and smoky lox to bananas-Foster French toast and stuffed egg stratas to six-cheese mac ’n’ cheese and even shrimp and grits. (Fair warning: Hot-pink walls, fluorescent lighting, and popularity with families means Jilly’s might be a bit rough on anyone who had a rousing Saturday night.) 8509 Delmar, 314-993-5455,

For some, wrestling oneself from morningafter slumber merely to consume a meal is blasphemy; for others, Sunday brunch is a gustatory high holy day. We suggest a compromise: Indulge in The Highland Hangover (complete with Scotch eggs and bridies) or the Seamus MacBenedict (did he just walk by in a kilt?) at The Scottish Arms. Then embrace the dog that bit ye with a trip to the Arms’ bloody Mary bar, graced with more pickled veggies than Aunt Ailsa puts out at Hogmanay. 8 s. sarah, 314-

JillysCuPCaKeBar.Com.

535-0551, thescottisharms.com.

Jilly’s has a mix of sweet and savory brunch items, plus— of course—cupcakes

86 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 79

Breakfast Beyond st. louis

By Dave Lowry

roper’s regal Beagle

yes, like the bar in three’s Company. it’s illinois’ homage to Chrissy, Jack, and Whatshername. the action’s only on weekend mornings; by 7 a.m., locals are arriving for renowned French toast. but the eggs benedict is worthwhile, as are biscuits, fluffy and flaky, smothered in a thick, sausage-fragrant gravy, while a cheddar omelet is cheesier than a ’70s sitcom. the heated patio makes for a breakfast alfresco during all but the bitterest month. inside, it’s spacious, lively, and fun. 3045 goDfrey, goDfrey, ill., 618-466-2112, roPersregalBeagle.Com.

goDfrey

6 4 alton Mac’s Time out lounge

missouri

1 2

st. Charles florissant 270

ferguson marylanD heights granite City 170

hesterfielD

270

university City 70/55

laDue

64/40

illinois

st. louis east st. louis

Ballwin KirKwooD

Cold beer, hot barbecue pork, and off-track betting under the same roof? yes, dreams do come true. While the combination would seem to call for a seedy, damon runyon– style atmosphere, Mac’s is more Sex and the City upscale: hanging plants, a beautiful patio, and a splendid sunday brunch. you can find the usual breakfast standards here, including omelets and pancakes—and if barbecue’s on the brunch menu, it’s super smokers–like. but the real fun is sipping oJ and laying a bet on that can’t-miss trifecta. 315 Belle, alton, ill., 618-465-1006.

affton 55

255

2011 Best of Food & Drink 87 | D EC EMB ER 201 1 81

harDin

5 Mississippi River

Mel’s illinois riverdock

as if you need another reason to visit hardin, ill., the riverdock’s fried chicken and house-made pies are legendary. but breakfast here, when the mist is rising off the nearby river, is special. Portions are daunting, from Frisbee-size belgian waffles to giant slabs of sourdough toast. the ramp special provides caloric fuel for a river row to new orleans. Mel’s is roomy, packed with rivermen and assorted Calhoun County characters. and how many breakfast joints offer an adjacent berthing slip? 310 s. ParK, harDin, ill., 618-576-2362.

Cowan’s restaurant

norman rockwell would paint—and eat—at this iconic diner, complete with swivel stools, cozy booths, and coffee-cup chitchat. it has standard— and outstanding—breakfast fare, from silver-dollar pancakes to a nest of omelets. the draw, though, is the delectably offbeat: cheese-crammed quesadillas, cranberry-walnut bread, breakfast burritos swimming in green enchilada sauce, and a formidable chili–and–cheddar cheese slinger with hash browns and a fried egg that’ll pay for your cardiologist’s summer home on the Côte d’azur. 130 n. Kingshighway, st. Charles, 636-946-5556.

breakfast is served all day here, and the emphasis is on the protein. eggs are served with pork loin, salty country ham, or rib-eye steak. buttermilk biscuits are a must. a four-egg hamand-cheese omelet defines “hearty.” Worth the trip, the century-old brick building on a charming street is redolent of small-town charm. there’s a reason our ancestors regularly breakfasted on pie, and you can find out why here—the blueberry crumble can cure almost any problem. (so too the lemon meringue.) 114 elm, washington, 636-2393213, Cowansrestaurant.Com.

88 2011 Best of Food & Drink

o'fallon 70

little hills Winery

Missouri River

washington

Illinois River

allin’s diner

that classic breakfast staple, riesling, just happens to be nearly perfect with a ham steak—and it just happens to be a specialty at this beautiful winery in historic st. Charles. the ham, along with eggs, fried potatoes, and toast or an omelet stuffed with brie, bacon, and apple-onion marmalade, provides substantial sustenance for exploring Main street. opt for the patio if weather permits; inside, it’s charmingly rustic. and while lunch and dinner are often crowded, breakfast here is slowpaced and thoroughly enjoyable. 501 s. main, st. Charles, 636-9469339, littlehillswinery.Com.

If bistros weren’t created for weekend brunch, they should have been

Best Brunch in a Brunch-lovin’ neighborhood Brasserie By niChe It might not sound good when you call it fat emulsified with fat and served over fat, but when you call it hollandaise and it comes drizzled over poached eggs and ham in Brasserie’s eggs Benedict, you start to get the feeling that the French knew something about breakfast that nobody else did. And Gerard Craft knows something about Benedicts; he replaces the traditionally lean Canadian bacon with rich, smoky, country ham in Brasserie’s rendition. On a snow-covered day in the Central West End, there are few cozier places than near the windows in Brasserie’s dining room. 4580 laCleDe, 314-454-0600, BrasserieByniChe.Com.

Best omelet

the ClassiCs

the original Pancake house Discerning diners willing to menu-dive past 23 varieties of pancakes will find The Original Pancake House’s hubcapsize baked omelets—a feat of culinary architecture made possible by the humble egg. Browned from the oven and overflowing with cheese and toppings—payloads ranging from veggies to corned-beef hash—each omelet is served with a side of pancakes. It’s so massive, it’s perfect for sharing or to fuel you through a day of manual labor.

Courtesy Diner, two locations, 314-644-2600

Eat-Rite Diner, two locations, 314-621-9621

17000 ChesterfielD airPort rD., 636-536-4044, oPhmo.Com.

82 DECE MB ER 2011 |

2011 Best of FoodBy&kEvin Drink photogRaphs a. RoBERts89

On the brink of nirvana: eggs Benedict at Herbie’s

in searCh of the

Perfect Eggs Benedict By Katie o'Connor

’m often asked which is my favorite restaurant, and I’m often hard-pressed to answer. The truth is, it depends—on mood, occasion, craving. What do I like to cook? Again, it depends. Favorite dish? Ah, that one I can answer: eggs Benedict, the classic and delectable combination of English muffin, ham or Canadian bacon, poached eggs, and hollandaise sauce. I blame my mother, who not only introduced me to the dish long ago, but also makes the best version in town, hands down. Her secret, besides perfectly poached eggs, is extra lemon juice in the hollandaise, brightening the buttery, smooth sauce with a lovely light tang. I make a pretty mean Benedict myself (based on Mom’s recipe, of course), but I’m just as happy to go out for brunch on Sunday mornings, in my unofficial quest to find a restaurant version as good as Mom’s. The search has brought its highs and lows. I learned early on to avoid Benedicts on a buffet line; there’s simply no way to preserve a runny yolk and silky sauce in a chafing dish, no matter how great the chef. I also learned never to order the dish in a place best known for its slingers (the notable exception being City Diner); I suspect the glue-like stuff most of these spots pass off as hollandaise is gravy tinted with yellow food coloring. Among the highs are Benedict-esque dishes such as eggs Florentine, where spinach stands in for ham—SqWires’ hearty take offers spinach and steak. Or eggs Oscar, Oceano Bistro’s decadent tweak that adds asparagus and sweet crabmeat. The

90 2011 Best of Food & Drink

Piccadilly at Manhattan offers several riffs on the dish, including a delicious and homey version where hash browns replace the English muffin. All tasty, all memorable, but not the classic; the search goes on. I’ve come close to success, occasionally finding a spot that did the dish proud, only to have it close (oh, Melange, how I miss you!), or as at La Dolce Via, only to find that the dish is excellent, but sporadic on the brunch menu. The version at Scape was oh-so-close, but the buttery sauce, smoky Canadian bacon, and well-cooked eggs just couldn’t overcome an English muffin with the texture and thickness of a bagel. The version at Cielo was even closer, save for the inclusion of grilled tomato. My search is nowhere near complete—there are still countless versions to try—but the closest I’ve found to Mom’s is at Herbie’s Vintage 72, whose kitchen produces a Benedict with eggs the ideal runniness and a smooth, rich hollandaise with a subtle but noticeable lemony tang. So you’ll likely find me here when the Sunday-morning Benedict craving strikes—if I’m not at Mom’s. Katie O’Connor’s search for the perfect eggs Benedict continues. Got a recommendation? Visit facebook.com/stlmag to share it.

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 83

Bakery

BitterSweet Bakery A long counter, piled high with sugary delights, showcases owner Leanna Russo’s belief in quality ingredients and her solid understanding of pastry technique. Baked goods are the stars here: cinnamon coffee cake, banana–caramel–sea salt breakfast bread, and warm pastries stuffed with sweet and savory fillings. Don’t overlook the Something Hot menu: Its excellent biscuits and gravy, simple but decadent creamed eggs with herbs, and daily breakfast casserole demonstrate Russo’s grasp of the savory side of the culinary equation. Same with the hot chocolate— it’s among the best in town. 2200 gravois, 314-771-3500, theBittersweetBaKery.Com.

la Bonne BouChée A proper French omelet with generous filling and a first-rate croissant aren’t all that await at La Bonne Bouchée. Tender pancakes with a generous serving of fresh fruit and real whipped cream make butter and syrup unnecessary, but the best surprise is the squeezed-to-order OJ—it isn’t cheap ($5), but ah, the difference! A cozy interior, a wee garden at the rear, and loaded pastry cases in front also make for a sweet time. westgate Centre, 12344 olive, 314-5766606, labonnebouchee.com.

ruSSell’S Café and Bakery

Does anyone dislike cinnamon coffee cake? No one we know.

Flaky, fruit-filled pastries, Kaldi’s coffee, and hearty breakfast wraps make Russell’s a must for South County breakfast-goers searching for an alternative to the area’s ubiquitous chains. Our advice? Ask for the BLT from the lunch menu—crisp bacon, sliced avocado, and an abundance of lettuce and tomato—made to order on toasted multigrain bread. 958 Brookwood Center, fenton, 636-3438900, russellscafe.com.

84 DEC EMB ER 2011 |

91 2011 Best of Food & photogRaphs By Drink gREg RannElls

Locavore Best name for a breakfast could go to the Greens, Eggs & Ham.

loCal harveST Café Three-year-old Local Harvest, a spinoff of the same-named grocer across the street, takes pride in sourcing provisions within a 150-mile radius. Weekend brunches here have proven so stellar, it seems everyone within said radius is showing up. The menu is balanced commensurately between vegan, vegetarian, and omnivorous options, but when vegan versions of stuffed French toast or chorizo potpie can easily pass for their ambrosial, nonvegan counterparts, who cares? Well, egg lovers might; the classic, farm-fresh, two-eggsany-style plate sings. 3137 morgan ford, 314-772-8815, localharvestcafe.com.

WinSloW’S hoMe This U. City spot is most notable for its oldtimey character, both in its general-store atmosphere (complete with tin ceiling and wooden display cases and shelves stocked with toys, kitchen supplies, and garden gewgaws) and in the kitchen, where chef Cary McDowell transforms farm-fresh eggs and seasonal produce from the store’s Augusta farm into straightforward dishes like quiches, frittatas, omelets, and pancakes. But while the vibe might be old-fashioned, the concept— seasonal, sustainable, satisfying breakfast fare—is decidedly modern. 7213 Delmar,

Café Osage Granola, pancakes, corned beef hash…don’t let Café Osage’s seemingly standard breakfast fare fool you. This is simple food, yes, but here straightforward names belie thoughtful touches: The granola’s accompanying lemon-curd yogurt; the Greens, Eggs & Ham’s got prosciutto; the biscuits and gravy has creamed chicken, mushrooms, and leeks. It’s all to let the ingredients shine—and what ingredients they are! In season, produce comes from the café’s garden across the street; herbs are grown on the roof. It doesn’t get more local than that. 4605 olive, 314-454-6868, BowooDfarms.Com.

314-725-7559, winslowshome.com.

92 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 85

Best Crepes rooster While other creperies have come and gone, the second piece of David Bailey’s ever-expanding empire, Rooster, has steadily turned out some of the best crepes in the metro area. And while the restaurant’s favorites—like the Marinated Spicy Chicken No. 2, with its fontina and baby arugula—are good, we think the overlooked breakfast sausage crepe, with egg, Emmenthaler Swiss, and a spicy creamy slaw, is the way to go. Notice how the cheese’s nutty bite melds fantastically with the locally sourced, sage-infused pork sausage from Hinkebein Hills Farm. That magic doesn’t happen by accident. 1104 loCust, 314-241-8118, roosterstl.Com.

unParalleleD sunDay BrunCh The Restaurant, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, 100 Carondelet Plaza, 314-863-6300

BlooDy (mary) fun at mosaiC

House-made salsa atop Rooster’s breakfast burrito crepe kick-starts the morning.

We suspect a mad scientist has been let loose in the kitchen at the Des Peres location of Mosaic, and he’s focused his energies on that quintessential brunch drink: the bloody Mary. Of the five Marys on the menu, our favorites are the Inside Out Bloody Mary Martini and the surprisingly good Bloody Bourbon Barrel. The bloody-good fun continues at the weekend Bloody Mary Bar, where you can go garnish-crazy with celery stalks, pickled asparagus, blue-cheese olives, andouille sausage, Cajun shrimp, cocktail onions, and an arsenal of hot sauces. —b.k. 11925 manChester, 314- 394-2323, mosaiCtaPas.Com/mosaiC-DesPeres.Cfm.

86 DECEMB ER 2011 |

photogRaphs By Drink kEvin a. RoBERts 93 2011 Best of Food &

A double stack o’ flapjacks at Blueberry Hill

When Breakfast’s not for Breakfast Care to have breakfast in the bizarro world? Well, there’s Rigazzi’s, which opens at 8 a.m., but its menu notes nary an egg or flapjack— although heroes, pastas, chicken dishes, strip steaks, wings, and T-ravs are all available first thing. Or how ’bout Blueberry Hill? Its bill of fare declares classics like scrambled eggs and biscuits and gravy “Breakfast Anytime”—except breakfast time, since it doesn’t open until 11 a.m. Why such strange aberrations, especially from two of St. Louis’ most crowd-pleasing institutions? “It’s backwards, how it happened,” admits Rigazzi’s co-owner Joan Aiazzi. Nearby graveyard-shifters, preferring to unwind after work with hot pizza and cold beer, make up the bulk of Rigazzi’s early-bird business. And while the restaurant doesn’t offer breakfast on paper, “we have a chef who’s happy to fix up anything you want,” adds Aiazzi. Blueberry Hill proprietor Joe Edwards did attempt breakfast service for a couple of years, back when the kitchen was but an unrenovated foxhole. “It became really tough for the kitchen to switch between breakfast and lunch,” says Edwards. “It was hard to abandon breakfast, because it had started to catch on, but we would’ve disappointed more customers if we couldn’t keep up when lunch began.” Besides, says Edwards—whose first and fourth (yep) meals of the day are always breakfast foods—“Breakfast is always OK.” —r.m.l.

What’s Up at Wat Phrasriratanaram? Want to make a few bucks? Bet a friend (or almost anyone else in St. Louis) that Florissant is home to a Thai Buddhist temple. Tell them that Wat Phrasriratanaram has provided homemade Thai food one Sunday a month at its “Thai Food Fair” for the past six years. Then take your winnings—and your friend—there. The short buffet line has the basics, like pad Thai, tom kha soup, and various curries, often seasoned just a bit differently like a home cook would. (Think Grandma’s stroganoff, rather than a restaurant’s version.) And most items are $2 to $5: small plates, Thai-style. Afterward, browse the mini craft market or take off your shoes, step inside the temple, and contemplate how lucky you are to have found this place. —g.m. 890 linDsay, 314-839-3115, stlthaitemPle.org.

94 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 87

Blackberry French toast with mascarpone: not for the Egg Beaters crowd

B�t New

Half & Half

BreaKfast Joint

Butcher-block tables and quick servers typify Clayton’s newest and most impressive breakfast spot.

Having already wooed us with his take on Neapolitan pizza at The Good Pie, it would be easy to simply say owner Mike Randolph has done it again. Indeed he has, but that doesn’t go far enough, as there’s nothing simple or traditional about his take on breakfast. Simple here means a dish like a veggie hash of Brussels sprouts, spinach, and potatoes served in an iron skillet beneath the most perfectly cooked sunny-side-up eggs you’ll ever see. But nontraditional is really the essence of Randolph’s approach: Recent weekend specials included a Benedict with a choice of soft-shell crab or veal sweetbreads (a simply divine dish); on another weekend, it was scrambled eggs decadently topped with fresh black truffles. Of course, breakfast is not complete without coffee, and that, too, gets the gourmet treatment. Kaldi’s award-winning barista, Mike Marquard, was brought on board to manage the restaurant and its ambitious coffee program. With an ever-expanding number of brew methods—seven, at last count— and a seasonally revolving selection of single-origin beans from both Kaldi’s and Chicago’s Intelligentsia Coffee, Half & Half isn’t just one of the best places to get a cup of coffee in St. Louis, it’s one of the best places to get a cup in the country. Period. 8135 marylanD, 314-725-0719, halfanDhalfstl.Com. 7

88 DECE MB ER 2011 |

gREg RannElls95 2011 Best ofphotogRaphs Food &ByDrink

96 2011 Best of Food & Drink

| D EC E MB ER 201 1 89

Than for v ks Com isiting e bac . k soo n!

Visit us at stlmag.com or call 314.918.3000 2011 Best of Food & Drink