A Sneak Peek at Fermented Vegetables

This is a sampling of pages from

FERMENTED VEGETABLES © 2014 by Kirsten Shockey and Christopher Shockey All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without written permission from the p ­ ublisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other — without written permission from the publisher.

Photography by © Erin Kunkel Illustrations by © Daniel Everett

Why We Ferment, 11

Dipping into the Brine PA R T 1

FERMENTATION FUNDAMENTALS — 14 —

CHAPTER 1

Back to the Future: Vegetable Fermentation as Preservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

CHAPTER 2

The Inner Life of Pickling: The Science behind Vegetable Fermentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

CHAPTER 3

Crocks and Rocks: The Tools of the Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Mastering the Basics PA R T 2

KRAUT, CONDIMENTS, PICKLES, AND KIMCHI — 48 —

CHAPTER 4

Mastering Sauerkraut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

CHAPTER 5

Mastering Condiments: Variations on Kraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

CHAPTER 6

Mastering Brine Pickling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

CHAPTER 7

Mastering Kimchi Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

CHAPTER 8

Practical Matters: Storage and Troubleshooting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

In the Crock PA R T 3

FERMENTING VEGETABLES A TO Z — 102 —

Garden Vegetables and Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Arugula, 109

Eggplant, 174

Radicchio, 218

Asparagus, 110

Escarole, 176

Radishes, 219

Basil, 113

Fennel, 178

Rapini (Broccoli Rabe), 222

Beans, Green, 116

Garlic, 180

Rhubarb, 223

Beets, 119

Garlic Scapes, 183

Rutabaga, 225

Broccoli, 127

Grape Leaves, 184

Scallions (Green Onions), 226

Brussels Sprouts, 127

Horseradish, 185

Shiso, 228

Burdock (Gobo), 129

Jicama, 187

Spinach, 233

Cabbage, Green and Savoy, 131

Kohlrabi, 189

Sunchokes, 236

Cabbage, Napa or Chinese, 140

Leeks, 191

Sweet Potatoes, 237

Cabbage, Red, 147

Mushrooms, 193

Tomatillos, 240

Carrots, 148

Mustard Greens, 195

Tomatoes, 241

Cauliflower, 151

Okahijiki Greens (Saltwort), 197

Turmeric, 243

Celeriac, 156

Okra, 199

Turnips, 245

Celery, 158

Onions, 201

Winter Squash, 248

Chard, 160

Pak Choi (Bok Choy), 205

Cilantro (Coriander), 160

Parsley, 206

Zucchini and Other Summer Squash, 252

Collard Greens, 163

Parsnips, 208

Corn, 165

Peas, 210

Cucumbers, 166

Peppers, 212

Foraged Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Dandelion Flowers, Leaves, and Roots, 259

Ramps, 264

Lamb’s-Quarters, 261

Watercress, 265

Nettles, 263

Fruits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Apples, 267

Cranberries, 273

Citrus Fruits, 270

On the Plate PA R T 4

— 276 —

CHAPTER 9

Breakfast: Culture for the Gutsy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

CHAPTER 10 Snacks: CHAPTER 11

A Pickle a Day Keeps the Doctor Away. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

Lunch: Ferments on the Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

CHAPTER 12 Happy

Hour: Crocktails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323

CHAPTER 13 Dinner:

Brine and Dine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329

CHAPTER 14 Dessert:

Really?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349

Appendix: Scum — The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, 356 Resources, 360 Bibliography, 363 Acknowledgments, 366 Index, 367

So You Want to Ferment without Salt?

Any serious fermentista will encounter salt-phobic people who try to make salt-free sauerkraut or want to convince you to do the same. There are certainly a lot of recipes out there on the Web; some require a blender, some use seaweed or celery seeds in place of salt. With care and luck, fermentation can be accomplished without the salt, and some people do so successfully. Expect these ferments to be softer and at times mushy.

But why not use salt in your ferments? Our bodies need salt anyway. Without it we die. A study published in the American Journal of Medicine in 2006 reads, “Sodium intake of less than 2300 mg [the daily recommended allowance] was associated with a 37% increase in cardiovascular disease mortality and a 28% increase of all-cause mortality.� In other words, without the correct balance of salt and water, the systems in our body stop functioning. As with most things, common sense and balance are key.

RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SALADS VISUAL GUIDE

1. Thinly slice the vegetables.

2. Work in the salt.

3. Cover the vegetables and set aside to allow brine to develop.

4. Press the vegetables under the brine.

Mastering Condiments 67

RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SALADS VISUAL GUIDE

5. Submerged and weighted = healthy environment for

fermentation.

68 Mastering the Basics

6. Ready for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed

paper in place to impede evaporation.

PASTES AND BASES VISUAL GUIDE

1. Chop or pulse the veggies to a fine consistency.

2. Press the paste to remove air pockets and bring brine to the surface.

3. Place a ziplock bag on the surface of the ferment, and fill the bag to the jar rim with water to create weight.

4. Ready for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed paper in place to impede evaporation.

Mastering Condiments 71

WHOLE-LEAF FERMENTS VISUAL GUIDE

1. Fresh leaves before salt is added.

2. Leaves wilted by salt.

The Taste Test: Navigating through the Scum to the Kraut on the Other Side When it’s time to taste-test your ferment, be warned: there may be scum, blooms of yeasts, or molds on top of your followers, or even on your ferment. Take your time and follow these directions.

1. Remove the weight.

2. Wipe the insides of your jar or crock with a clean towel carefully so as not to disturb the fer-

ment or the scum.

3. Gently remove the follower. There is often sediment on top of the follower; try not to disturb

it too much.

4. You will be looking at the primary follower; if it is leaves, lift them out carefully, collecting

any stray floating vegetable bits in with them; discard. If it is plastic wrap and there is brine on top, ladle out any extra floating vegetable bits. Pull out the plastic wrap, folding it over to catch any sediment (this sediment is not harmful but may impart a flavor).

5. If the ferment is completely under the brine, it will be good. If the brine level is low and

close to the surface of the ferment, there may be some soft or off-color areas; simply remove these parts. The ferment underneath will be fine and ready to taste.

Mastering Condiments 73

SEASONINGS You can make simple savory seasonings by dehydrating fermented veggies and grinding them in a blender.

When the brine is evaporated, you are left with the original salt and the concentrated flavor of the vegetable.

For example, the Simple Beet Kraut pictured below (page 120) makes a lovely deep pink tangy spice, which is not only stunning sprinkled on top of a salad but also delicious. If you don’t eat it too quickly, dehydrate your kimchi for instant kimchi spice. Many a ferment can make a perfect seasoning dehydrated as is.

Some ferments are fun to jazz up even more with other herbs and spices, or even sesame seeds, like Shiso Gomashio (page 229). And these seasonings are shelf stable, so they can live and probiotically season your food straight from the cabinet for months. Dehydrating can also be a strategy for clearing out older krauts from the fridge when you are ready to make more. To make seasonings: 1. Drain the brine from the ferment by letting it sit in a strainer over a bowl for 30 minutes, or

by putting it in cheesecloth and actively squeezing out the juice. You want to get the loose drippy moisture out; you don’t need to squeeze it completely dry.

3. Spread the ferment out on a tray or baking sheet and dry for 8 to 10 hours or overnight in a

dehydrator at 100°F. 3. Shelf life for dried krauts is 6 months at room temperature. The lower the temperature, the

longer the shelf life (for example, 60°F increases viability to 12 to 18 months). Refrigerate or freeze in airtight containers for long-term storage.

Mastering Condiments 75

PICKLED GARLIC SCAPES, page 184

ONION AND PEPPER RELISH (made with habanero), page 203

NAKED KRAUT, page 132

SWEET PEPPER SALSA, page 215

FENNEL CHUTNEY, page 178

FERMENTED SHISO LEAVES, page 228

SIMPLE BEET KRAUT, page 120

CHIPOTLE SQUASH KRAUT, page 249

KRAUTCHEESE, page 284

HERB SCHMEAR, page 282

GADO GADO SCHMEAR, page 284

SMOKY KRAUT QUICHE

KRAUT BALLS

BACON-WRAPPED DOG

FISH TACOS, page 309

SUSHI-NORIMAKI

KIMCHI LATKES, page 335

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH FERMENTED SWEET POTATOES AND PEANUT SAUCE