A Pauline About Town

Iain Gale (1973-77) unveils EDINBURGH

‘Auld Reekie’ is a city of two halves, as both Ian Rankin and his literary precursor Robert Louis Stevenson would tell you. It is a real Jekyll and Hyde of a town, where the close-set medieval/ Jacobean tenement skyscrapers of the Old Town sit high above the expansive squares and crescents of James Craig’s 18th century New Town, offering two very different characters, which are clearly reflected in those of its many pubs, clubs and restaurants.

WHERE TO EAT

Rollo

Tucked into a neat terrace of shops on bohemian Broughton Street, in the city’s east end, Ailsa Rollo’s restaurant is a real gem. It is tiny and also very dark but these are a virtue. Perhaps ‘intimate’ is the best word to describe Rollo’s teak, leather and stone interior. No more than you might expect from an owner whose parents are an architect and an artist (her mother Alison carved the stone heads which adorn the room). The staff are attentive but not overbearing, the wine list reasonable and quaffable and the food just superb. Go for the haggis bon-bons and the sliced beef with parmesan and rocket, but there are also delicious vegetarian options. Booking is essential and they do not take under 18 diners.

Ondine

For a seafood experience you can hardly do better than Ondine. Set just off the Royal Mile, on the Old Town’s George IV Bridge, the restaurant has recently undergone a superb design makeover and the interiors are even more opulent than before, setting off food to match. Celebrated, award winning head chef, the amiable Roy Brett, honed his seafood skills with his old friend Rick Stein and the wealth of experience really shows. Do not miss the lobster thermidor.

Chez Jules

If you are looking for evidence of the Scots-French Auld Alliance, then go no further. Chez Jules is exactly what it looks like: a slightly down-at-heel Parisian brasserie serving everything you might expect from escargots to superb steaks. The wines are classic rural French and the ambience is legendary, as are the loos. Not to be missed.

Dishoom

This is far more than an Indian restaurant. Entering Dishoom feels like walking into one of Manhattan’s finest, although it styles itself a ‘Bombay bar’. The place specialises in small dishes and its left to you to combine although advice is freely given. They do not generally take reservations, so just walk in.

Café Andaluz

The thing about Andaluz is that, as in its mother country, here you can just drop in and grab some tapas and a glass of rioja. It just feels authentic, a huge cave of a place, decorated with classic blue and white Andalucian tiles and ceramics. Try the ox cheeks and the unctuous black pudding and chorizo.

 Rollo  The Lookout

The Lookout

Set atop Carlton Hill, next to the Royal Observatory, this exquisite glass cube offers Michelin listed tasting menus sourced from local, sustainable, seasonal produce. It also boasts an incredible all-round view of the city and across to the hills of Fife. As you might expect the food is not half bad either but be sure to take a fat wallet.

Patisserie Florentine

The closest thing that Edinburgh has to offer to a genuine Parisian or Florentine café, this is a regular haunt of the urbane locals of Stockbridge and the lower New Town. A few tables sit outside for the more hardy patrons, while the little back room is a wonderfully discreet rendezvous.

Leo’s Beanery

Stylish, boho-chic Leo’s is renowned for its great selection of hand ground coffees and delicious brunches. Try the poached eggs and pesto.

Tuk Tuk

Authentic Indian Street food says it all here and the interior is styled to match. No fuss, no frills, just the genuine smells, tastes and atmosphere of the sub-continent. On the corner of the main artery to the south side, it is conveniently situated, directly opposite the King’s Theatre and that old school Edinburgh hostelry Bennet’s Bar.

WHERE TO DRINK

VISIT & SHOP

Teuchters

A justifiably popular West End rugby international hang out, either before or after nearby Murrayfield, but away from the crowds with some great real ales and craft beers and a huge range of whiskies.

Kay’s Bar

This tiny old style Edinburgh bar, tucked away in a mews off one of the New Town’s most elegant streets, hasn’t changed a jot since I was a student here in the late 70s. The flames from the real fire are reflected in the gloss paint of the elegant, dark red walls. The beers, and there a good number of them, flow freely as does the banter between the eclectic mix of patrons, from lawyers and financiers to a healthy spattering of artists and writers. The back room, furnished with a library of books, is perfect for a secret assignation.

 Kay’s Bar

The Canny Man

This landmark pub, established in 1871, is famed as much for its décor as for its drink. The pub sign says it all, picturing the ubiquitous canny man, a Napoleonic rifleman. Inside various items of militaria are among the eclectic mix of antiques which hang suspended from the ceiling. Others are dotted around the pub’s intriguing maze of rooms, including one devoted to Winston Churchill. Do not forget to sample the superb bloody marys. Well worth the trip to Jean Brodie’s genteel Morningside on the south side of town.

Whigham’s

Haunt of many a West End flaneur, Whigham's, in Charlotte Square is something of an institution, offering a great wine list, some good beers and a fine and dependable restaurant menu in the conspiratorial surroundings of cosy vaulted 18th century wine cellars.

The Magnum

A New Town street corner pub and old-style wine bar, with polished wood tables and a tranquil atmosphere. It also boasts a good restaurant.

 Whigham’s

 The Magnum

Edinburgh is a party city and not surprisingly there are more than a few places to find that elusive costume.

From the Obvious to the Oddball

Edinburgh Castle is iconic but with hideously expensive admission, while Holyrood Palace at the other end of the Royal Mile and the Queen’s official residence, offers a more genuine flavour of the Scottish monarchy and boasts the stone floor where the lover of Mary Queen of Scots was murdered, complete with annually repainted ‘bloodstain.’ While you are there, take a hike around the Queen’s Park which takes in the towering magnificence of Arthur’s Seat, the most dominant of Edinburgh’s hills.

The best hidden vista in Edinburgh is surely the spectacular, panoramic view from the lofty third storey balcony of the New Club on Princes Street, opposite the castle. The club, far from ‘new’, was founded in 1787 and is open only to members, although most private London clubs, from Brooks to the East India, have a reciprocal arrangement. (And while you are there do not miss the opulent panelled dining room, transplanted from the old club building in 1968).

 Arthur’s Seat

For an unusual alternative to the classic gallery visits why not visit one of the city’s two high-end auction houses. Bonham’s on Queen Street has all the quality you would expect from a branch of the international auctioneers although you will find specifically Scottish themed sales on display. 

WHERE TO BE SEEN

 Lyon & Turnbull

Nearby just off Broughton Street, Lyon & Turnbull has made a real name for itself over the past decade, scooping some spectacular lots. Their Scottish picture sales are particularly worth watching. With what has been called the most beautiful auction room in Europe and some of the business’s most flamboyant and amusing auctioneers, if you can time your trip with an auction, you are in for a treat. Edinburgh is a party city and not surprisingly there are more than a few places to find that elusive costume. The best though must be Armstrongs in the Grassmarket. Established in 1840 it specialises in vintage clothing. Expect to find everything you could possibly need, from a hussar’s uniform to Seventies Hippy chic.

A short walk away up Victoria Street, you will find a string of more down to earth fashion boutiques and tucked between them a branch of Ian Mellis’s justly renowned cheese shops. For a real epicurean treat though do not miss the legendary Valvonna and Crolla on Leith Walk. Established in 1934, this world-famous deli displays a mouth-watering array of Italian produce. Still owned by the same family, it also has a great restaurant and organises event catering.

 Armstrongs in the Grassmarket For plays, shows and live music ranging from top rank performers to jazz, rock and classical, Edinburgh is awash with venues, from the Usher Hall and King’s Theatre to the Playhouse and Festival Theatre, not to mention the still avant-garde Traverse. But there are also a few less well-known alternatives.

Summerhall

Located in the quirky neo-classical/ utilitarian buildings of what was the University Veterinary College, since opening as an arts venue in 2011, Summerhall has become an Edinburgh institution, specializing in truly oddball and off the wall productions and exhibitions. It also houses a fine café and bar and it is home to a gin distillery and micro-brewery.

Fingers Piano Bar

Think Billy Joel meets Rebus and you’re somewhere close to defining this long-established Edinburgh music bar. In brief it is a buzzing, charmingly down-at-heel venue, frequented by an eclectic mix of well-heeled local patrons.

The Caves

Party venues do not get more unique than The Caves, a maze of early 18th century stone vaults beneath South Bridge. Some were once whisky stores while others housed the French cavalry Bodyguard of the Stuart kings. Never turn down an invitation.

 Festival Theatre

 Summerhall

 The Caves