PAULINE ABOUT TOWN
Iain Gale (1973-77) unveils
EDINBURGH ‘Auld Reekie’ is a city of two halves, as both Ian Rankin and his literary precursor Robert Louis Stevenson would tell you. It is a real Jekyll and Hyde of a town, where the close-set medieval/ Jacobean tenement skyscrapers of the Old Town sit high above the expansive squares and crescents of James Craig’s 18th century New Town, offering two very different characters, which are clearly reflected in those of its many pubs, clubs and restaurants. The Lookout
WHERE TO EAT
Rollo Tucked into a neat terrace of shops on bohemian Broughton Street, in the city’s east end, Ailsa Rollo’s restaurant is a real gem. It is tiny and also very dark but these are a virtue. Perhaps ‘intimate’ is the best word to describe Rollo’s teak, leather and stone interior. No more than you might expect from an owner whose parents are an architect and an artist (her mother Alison carved the stone heads which adorn the room). The staff are attentive but not overbearing, the wine list reasonable and quaffable and the food just superb. Go for the haggis bon-bons and the sliced beef with parmesan and rocket, but there are also delicious vegetarian options. Booking is essential and they do not take under 18 diners. R ollo
Ondine For a seafood experience you can hardly do better than Ondine. Set just off the Royal Mile, on the Old Town’s George IV Bridge, the restaurant has recently undergone a superb design makeover and the interiors are even more opulent than before, setting off food to match. Celebrated, award winning head chef, the amiable Roy Brett, honed his seafood skills with his old friend Rick Stein and the wealth of experience really shows. Do not miss the lobster thermidor. Chez Jules If you are looking for evidence of the Scots-French Auld Alliance, then go no further. Chez Jules is exactly what it looks like: a slightly down-at-heel Parisian brasserie serving everything you might expect from escargots to superb steaks. The wines are classic rural French and the ambience is legendary, as are the loos. Not to be missed. Dishoom This is far more than an Indian restaurant. Entering Dishoom feels like walking into one of Manhattan’s finest, although it styles itself a ‘Bombay bar’. The place specialises in small dishes and its left to you to combine although advice is freely given. They do not generally take reservations, so just walk in. Café Andaluz The thing about Andaluz is that, as in its mother country, here you can just drop in and grab some tapas and a glass of rioja. It just feels authentic, a huge cave of a place, decorated with classic blue and white Andalucian tiles and ceramics. Try the ox cheeks and the unctuous black pudding and chorizo.
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The Lookout Set atop Carlton Hill, next to the Royal Observatory, this exquisite glass cube offers Michelin listed tasting menus sourced from local, sustainable, seasonal produce. It also boasts an incredible all-round view of the city and across to the hills of Fife. As you might expect the food is not half bad either but be sure to take a fat wallet. Patisserie Florentine The closest thing that Edinburgh has to offer to a genuine Parisian or Florentine café, this is a regular haunt of the urbane locals of Stockbridge and the lower New Town. A few tables sit outside for the more hardy patrons, while the little back room is a wonderfully discreet rendezvous. Leo’s Beanery Stylish, boho-chic Leo’s is renowned for its great selection of hand ground coffees and delicious brunches. Try the poached eggs and pesto. Tuk Tuk Authentic Indian Street food says it all here and the interior is styled to match. No fuss, no frills, just the genuine smells, tastes and atmosphere of the sub-continent. On the corner of the main artery to the south side, it is conveniently situated, directly opposite the King’s Theatre and that old school Edinburgh hostelry Bennet’s Bar.
